Installing Your First Atlas Model Railroad (ABS) Signal | Boomer Diorama ~ # 208
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 12. 2023
- Signaling adds a new immersive element to any model railroad. Contrary to what many assume, installing a signal is not as difficult as you might think. Are you intimidated when it comes to installing model railroad signalling? This tutorial will show how to install your first signal.
Furthermore, do you wish there was an easy entry level starter "signal" system to help you gain confidence? Within this (step-by-step) comprehensive product review, I will also demonstrate how simple it is to install your first signal on your model railroad which will bring your layout to another level.
CZcams Audio Library Music
DISCLAIMER: I pay for all the products and materials I use in this video content, unless otherwise stated. I do not receive any affiliate sponsorship, fees, funds, support, or gifts from company products, and/or any other companies, (unless otherwise stated). I only endorse products for the benefit of the community and my own personal use, apart from indicated sponsors. - Jak na to + styl
Enjoyed your focus on scaling the learning curve to the basic elements and then moving from there. I still remember my first solder connection or building kit or patch of 'boomer style' fine scale scenery elements, or even ripping up nice stuff to put down nicer stuff. Each was a sort of liberating moment that led to more and better, thanks for sharing your moment.
So true!
Boomer, your music selection is off the charts. It always seems to set the proper mood for the video. I am also intimidated by wiring. Thanks for sharing this tutorial on wiring for dummies! CHEERS!
Basic wiring is not that difficult. You just need to turn off the trains and spend some time with it. ;-)
I discovered your channel in February, subscribed in march, started watching everything you have and just finished. A few shows a week, and now am current on your channel. I have learned a few things along the way, and will rewatch quite a few (when I do similar modeling projects). Thanks for the inspiration and knowledge you give Boomer…
Awesome
Welcome aboard and thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts in support of the channel. Cheers ~ Boomer. ;-)
Under the watchful eye of supervisor Dusty, you did an excellent job!
Yeah. Dusty, she is obsessed about the train room as I am. ;-)
Outstanding!!! Exactly what I was needing to get me over my fears of installing my signals. Thank you for all your contributions to our great hobby .
Wonderful!
I LOVE working signals on layouts! Something I only dreamed about as a kid on my layout in the 1960's. 👍👍
That's the spirit! I think they are cool as well. Helps to bring the layout to life! 👍
Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ,
Conductive Integrity is a real thing.
John
😁👍
Looks terrific, really adds to the amazing realism of your layout. I definitely want to add some signaling to my layout once I get to that point.
Go for it!
Your are correct, wiring should always be neat. Worked for a government contractor for34 years, wiring panel , control boxes for navy ships. At the time, we were working to a government workmen's standards book from WWII.We could out have any cross over wires, all bends had to have radius depending on the size of the wire bundle or cable. Thanks Boomer enjoy your channel
Wow! That is cool information. Thanks for sharing that. Cheers ~ Boomer.
So this time I actually was one step ahead , you really like to stretch the learning curve with us subscribers LOL.
I will be looking forward to that .
Sounds great! Cheers!
Thank YOU FOR ALL the recent videos! Happy Holidays!
Awesome! Happy Holidays to you too and Thank You! Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁
Boomer, a great video on the installation of signals.
The Altas kit looks good, in Australia, we have a small firm that makes prototypical signals based upon which state (Provence) you are modelling, and they come with excellent instrauctions on how to wire, and they look just like what you see when you walk the area you are modelling. The owner will also give you e-mail help if you have issues.
As a retired High Temperature Engineer, I feel it is important to have the unseen part of your layout as neat, if not neater than your models, if your wiring is messy, give up now. Colour coded, correctly soldered, shrink tubed, no loose bits of wire. Great that you showed the importance of this, and it takes no time, and little extra effort, to be neat.
CHeerts, and thank you for sharing, Michael
That model firm sounds cool. Thanks for acknowledging the "tidy" wiring part. I know things can get out of hand the more accessories we add but it helps to get off on the right foot. I also plan to keep adding as well so the signal was just the first part. Cheers.😁
Great job Boomer! Now I can at least take my signals out of the box, and I think I can do this! Signals are like the icing on a cake. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome!
I've enjoyed two or three of your vids thus far, for you've an artistic approach to your modeling and how your scenes are presented. The final view down the tracks was superb, for it's that "tunnel-like" appearance that one might often see from a grade crossing. The signal simply adds all the more and I've come to love the lighting effects available in scale sizes these days. I miss such modeling (it's been years and years now) but enjoy seeing it vicariously through others. I always thought I'd be able to better afford it with age but now, at 56, it's more expensive than ever. lol I spend too much on photography gear instead. :)
Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing with us all!
Try "Z" scale on a really small footprint with a short line. Some of the Z Scale stuff coming out is awesome.
No need to spend more than one locomotive and half a dozen cars. Use a simple DC transformer and dive into scenery etc. Not to big an investment. Cheers and thanks for taking the time to comment.😁
@@boomerdiorama I'll always be hooked on HO, especially since graduating to bifocals a decade ago lol... I have considered some dioramas for photography, though...
Always a pleasure to give credit where it's due. I look forward to seeing the progress.
A very helpful video. I just installed some Atlas lights in my freight yard. Your wiring tips would have simplified the process!
I really like some of the newer Atlas lights. Thanks for sharing.😁
The most important part of wiring a layout is to keep records of what you have done. A drawing and/or terminal list along with labelling the terminals and/or wires will help in a couple of years time when you are tracing a fault or making alterations. Colour coding can help, but there are only so many colours available. I do use two colours for track, different colours for switch motors etc. probably about 8 different colours. That makes it easier to spot different types of circuits, but if well labelled not necessary. Machines I build for work only use four main colours, but we label all connections and wires and have full drawings and wiring schedules.
Yes indeed.
The best detail ever on signal go boomer
Something I can go back to when I forget how to install future ones . . . lol. 😉
Dear Boomer, awesome tip. Nice that Atlas thought of a user friendly signal system! Matte Medium to glue the signal in place, absolutely! Beautiful shots down the brewery track. Very cool angled drill from the DeWalt you got there. Whenever necessary, or whenever I can, I’ll use my Makita DA 4031 version. It’s a bit bigger, but on the Torque, it’s the most powerful drill I’ve ever used, cuts through anything like butter. Very handy and comfortable when using larger hole saws. Provided the bits are sharp. Cheerio
Sometimes we need to dumb down our approach for those who are burgeoning modelers at a different level like us. ;-)
Hi Boomer! Great Work! I'm a big fan of your channel and watch a lot for I think over two years now. Today I visited Annacis Island via google maps. Oh boy! Hard tot limit yourself to a theme as you do. I mean: autoracks, timber industry, a gypsum plant: all sorts of interesting things to model right? Well, just a little message from me, keep up the good work! Thank you for all the hard work you put in and for you sharing as you do. It's really inspirational for the modelling community I think. Well, for me for sure.
The Autorack industry is the big one for SRY. One could do it in "N" Scale I suppose. I like that road bridge (from New West) with the rail on the side. I think it swings fo marine traffic as well.
Thanks for sharing.
Great Stuff Boomer , thanks , I'm sure many others and myself will benefit from this. Cheers ..
O.K. Thank you!
Great video takes a lot of the voodoo and smoke and mirrors out of the signal system LOL
It certainly did for me! ;-)
Excuse me while I go find some of them now! Seems simple enough.
👍
Nice job on everything Boomer. A suggestion though, if you would like to make hooking up them Atlas switches easier, use a fork connector. You don't have to take the screw out, just loosen it a tad. They slide right behind the screw and make a way better connection that wrapping a wire around the screw.
Cheers
O.K. Thank you!
Thank you for being so neat and tidy. I love model Railroading, but it seems to be inherently messy and that drives me nuts. Your layout gives me hope again😁
Thanks for watching!
The level of detail on your layout is impressive. Last month I decided to set up signals on my two crossovers on my HO layout. I chose the Digitrax signal system and use it with JMRI. The Digitrax system has quite a learning curve but the rewards are imense. Every layout I build I start out with the best intentions to keep my wiring clean and tidy. Eventually it turns into a bowl of spaghetti. Great video!
Lol . . . yes. "The Bowl of Spaghetti." It's nice to try be organized, but things tend to run out of hand when we keep adding to the empire. ;-)
I appreciate your comments on neat wiring.
I have been working on my wiring for about 1.5 months now. I am making sure everything under the bench is easy to troubleshoot. I really enjoy the wiring.
It's not my favorite part of the hobby but I try to do a neat job as you do. ;-)
Just what I needed, Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you that was very enlightening. I`am thinking about signals now.
I like them more than I first thought. They add another level of immersion on the layout that looks really cool. Eventually, I will have the system automated as well. ;-)
Looks like a great starter kit. Thank you for showing us this.
Sure thing. Cheers.😁
Thanks for the overview of the Atlas signal system. I went with LCC (Layout Command Control) on my railroad. It’s a little more configuration but I’m really happy with the options and the integration LCC provides. To each his own, though. My wiring is not as neat as yours, lol. Signaling is cool.
I am glad to hear you are happy with your system. Lot's of good ones out there for sure. I like the looks of the ESU signal system as well. 😁 Cheers.
Thanks for a great primer Boomer, always insightful!
😁
Thanks again for sharing.
You bet!
Atlas has had this signal stuff out for several years now, but I’ve always felt like their plan was something like this: 1) Announce production of scale signals; 2) Don’t give any further information on it! I’m sure it’s good stuff, as Atlas products always have been, but it’s kind of a “no-go” for those of us who’s hobby funding is limited. When it looks like you’re possibly entering into something that has so many unknowns, the decision is often made to stay away from it! Atlas should reward you handsomely for doing the PR work that they’ve failed to put out! I’m sure this video will result in many purchases by modelers who were “on the fence” over shelling out their hard earned clams for this system! Kudos to you for a job well done!
I understand your point, but if you are talking economics, it's all relative in a funny way . . .
The signal system costs the same as an Athearn Genesis tank car that often sits on the shelf (like much of our rolling stock) if you know what I mean. At least the Atlas system signal is functional and does what they say it does. Cheers. 😉
Atlas is the most affordable of the good manufacturers so I don't know why you are hating on them for cost.
Signals are fun and very satisfying. I have a 3 mainline layout that is fully signaled. I started out buying the signals but it wasn’t long before I was building my signals with styrene. I also started building cantilever and full signal bridges. Great video to give the uninitiated the courage to try something new. Rob
I like that idea of building your own signals. I plan to build a few myself. ;-)
love all your videos
Thank you!😁
Hi Boomer that was a geat video ,well you got onto the only subject that scares and frustrates me of electronics and wiring ,that really is elephant in the room on my layout.
It took 7 years for a friend to finish the wiring on the layout I had to rely on him unfortunately it nearly turned me off the hobby altogether. But it was all DC back then and no tortious motors for the points just good old telephone exchange relays I had.
Any more than 2 wires gets me in a twist cant get my head around it ,but I did learn how to soldier hell yea ,
I can do that at a negative 4G inverted and give it the bird at the same time ,they part I can do well at when it come to electronics LOL.
But you did once again make it simple to understand the mark of a very good teacher ,so when the big move comes and I set up the new layout in DCC it might just make a little more sense.
Thanks
Glad to hear that. I am like you in that anything more than "two" wires intimidates me. But , like anything, we can slow down and take a simple approach and be amazed at how basic it really is and the reward is cool as well. ;-)
Mr. Boomer I've been wanting to fix up my layout with some signals but complicated or complications isn't what I wanted to deal with, watching this Video all of it has helped me make the move forward in buying some signals the signals you used is currently being used by UP they're the old Rock Island or S.P. signals you can see a few of them in our City of Hutchinson or out by old k-61 hwy I want a simple way to operate these lights & with this system it looks pretty simple but can upgraded fairly easy I have the wire the Power packs all I need is the Atlas set I believe that switch to change the lights & I'm off if you do the upgrade with NCE let me know but I'm getting one of those light sets and watching this video made it easier for me
Thanks for doing it... Allen D
I am overjoyed that I installed this first signal. I will probably change the signal "Type" to a Canadian style, as these are the "G" type I believe. Changing the style is easy as I just unplug and pop it out and drop in a new one! They still look really cool and add a whole new level of immersion on the layout. When I decide to upgrade or expand on more signalling and block detection down the road, I will publish it here on the channel. Have fun and take it one-step-at-time. Cheers.
Amazing realism
Thank you. I like them too!
I was sure if I was going to add any signals to the new layout or not. Maybe a simple signal on the main would be someting I could do. Thanks for sharing this. Job well done!! Cheers - Larry.
That would be cool!
Beautiful layout and beautiful wiring. 😅I have a birds nest under my layout 😅😊.
It's hard to avoid the bird's nest.😉
Nice video,
but I learned in school: when you put a wire under a screw _never_ tin it first. The reason is that the tin that is under pressure under the screw will after ten years or so give way, this will loosen the connection. Two options: put the bare wire under the screw or use a crimp connector on the wire (like the ones that are on all the wires in you car)
Regards,
Rudolf (from the Netherlands)
Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
Thanks for the knowledge. Definitely something that is a bit intimidating. You definitely demystified signals.
You're welcome! I just go for it anyway. ;-)
Thanks so much Boomer. Signals are scary! Taking the time to set out every step of every process sets your channel apart from all of the others.
Glad to help!
Great video Boomer! This looks like a great way to get started in signalling. I am currently working on a design for an N scale switching layout so I was happy to see Atlas also offers an N scale version of this kit. I am a big fan of the channel. Cheers 😎
Thank you Michael. Your N Scale layout design sounds exciting. I am sure the signals will look awesome. Cheers. 😁
I have 4 Atlas searchlight signals on my O scale layout and use the isolated rail to trigger them.
They are daisy chained together and cycle through the three colors depending which block the train is in, so it’s in automatic control.
Eric’s Trains on CZcams has a video on this system and how to set it up.
I prefer CTC over ABS, although it is nice to have both with the Atlas system. ;-)
Thank you for sharing. Thank you for showing everything. I at first did get mine to work. See this video I made three mistakes. One of them was not reading the manual to double my work. The other was the shorting, now fixed with the tinning. After years of doing this? Something as simple as tinning would make such a difference. Thanks again. Now I can move forward on my signals. N scale of course. LOL
Great! The Atlas system is also for N Scale as well! Nothing wrong with N Scale Vincent. ;-)
Electronic can be intimidating at first, then as you experiment you can gain confidence. In reality, the basics are not too difficult to understand if you are willing to learn. I got into it through ham radio.
Most people ignore basic electronics because they can' wait to run trains. Like when they wire track power incorrectly by using the track "rail joiners" as a bus. Then the layout fails and they give up . . . ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Yea, I think the main problem with electricity and electronic is that you can't see it. This create in people's mind a sense of the "unknown", or somethink "mystic".
Brilliant
Thank you. I hope it encourages some to try the signal option. I am glad I did !
Enjoyed this video. I found dwarf signals on Amazon for about $2 US. I am going to use them to show where the switches are pointing. I have spdt switches for each of the dwarfs and that costs about another $2. So with a plug in power converter, the dwarf signal, the spdt switch and some wire, I will have about $6 in each signal, maybe less... For every switch there will be 2 dwarf signals powered by 1 spdt switch and a little wire. the signals can also be situated so as to be boundry lines for placement of cars close to the switch.
That sounds awesome David. I plan to use SPDT Switches as well.
Found some that I will mount under the layout and will operate as the throw bar moves. Rix has a good throw unit for just a little cash and it works like the ones I have seen on your road. @@boomerdiorama
Yes! I have some of those. They are great for tight spaces as well.@@davidcurtis5398
I really enjoy this system. ez to install with the manual. you can add to it a little at a time if you want. I use the NCE bd20 for my detectors. The kit also comes with an analog detector for dc which you can also buy separately.
Yup. Sensors lik NCE bd20 whenever they become available. ;-)
Boomer,
Great video....I've been thinking about doing signaling on the layout. This definitely helps make that decision easy!
I am overjoyed that I added the signal. I like looking at even when it sits idle at red. ;-)
Glad to see you used stand offs on mounting the board to the plywood. pC boards don’t like to be flexed. Not sure whether they came with the board, but many boards out there don’t.
Stand-offs come with th board. ;-)
Once again, a great tutorial .. Seems like a great system. I believe in KISS anyway 😂😂
😁
Great video, thank you for sharing. My two cents would be to move the signal switch closer to the facia (maybe just temporarily until yo decide on your final set up) so you don't have to reach under the layout each time that you want to operate the signal. If yo don't like the view of controls, polluting the facia, I'm sure you can find a way to conceal it
Good point and great tip! You read my mind. I have a thing about polluting the facia. I like to keep it clean as you point out. I am rethinking things around my manual switch machine toggles as well. Any ideas?
Have been thinking about it, you can attach one of those cleats to the back face of the facia and then then horizontally attach the button panel to it, just close enough so you can reach the buttons with the tip of your fingers
This is an amazing resource not just for the newest and next generation of modellers but inspiration for us all who have loved it since childhood. It so far infront and raised the bar to a whole new level. Looks like you have a few Canadians friends now also leading the way and showing the industry and us all how its done. Absolutely amazing.
One thing i am very interested in Boomer is you all seem to use the NCE controllers, i went straight for the ESU ECOS for the automation and have yet to even start to wrap my head around any of it. Simple bus wiring, its thickness and the feeder wires are pushing my current electrical skillset at the moment, thank you for making this look easy.
I would love to know more about how NCE works and just how much they can handle. I figured having all ESU chips, an ESU controller might be the way to go to start with 🤷 guess I'll find out soon im just about to set it up
You can't get the NCE "Power" cab very easily right now. It is one of the most popular starter sets for DCC. I run all ESU Decoders, so I am a big fan of ESU. I also admire their signalling options as well. At this point an ESU-ECOS system would be overkill for me. NCE is simple and the Consist (MU) feature is super easy, and it does everything I need right now. My layout is Horseshoe Shaped as a "Walk-in" so a six foot cable reaches all points. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama thank you, I was struggling to find an NCE also so just bit the bullet knowing the ECOS was overkill, the features on it blow me away and is a little daunting thinking about how much I have to learn going down this road.
I like the looks of it as well. Glad to hear you are happy with it.@@cameronwheatley7792
Kalmbach publishing (model railroad magazine) has a great library of how-to books and they have one on "blocks and signaling" that should also help take the sting out of the learning curve too.
Sounds great . . . but you know how it is these days. No one wants to read books anymore. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama true, I love reading and I have a sizeable library of these books that are a great help to me with my layout and my previous layouts.
Just beautiful...
Now if you pipe in some of those amazing sound effects you do,
...I'll be in Rail Road Heaven (!)
Happy Holidaze, matey
Thanks, you too!
Nice work. Gonna be a bit tight plugging in that top RJ45 connector when you extend your signals, though.
I can move it a bit.😁
Hey Boomer that was great content. I too live in fear of signals! lol
To be honest I’m not much for any of the electronics, but of course it is a necessary part. I always found that I don’t have a problem doing the work but it’s the knowing what to do gets me. Anyway I’m rambling. Great video
Cheers from Ontario
Bob
You can do it!
Thanks for showing it all, LOL
I kinda did the same thing on my N scale I built around 15 years ago but I just used a 3 position switch to operate it manually 👍🏻😂
The circuit board is pretty neat but back then, that stuff was too intimidating for me, LOL
BTW can I have the beautiful tree that you removed when you installed the signal?? 😂
Ron
Thank you!
Heyya, I know you know of Showcase Miniatures, since you did such a good job on their tow truck kit. They make some really nice signal kits and etched components. I’m not sure the Canadian aspect styles, but they have the color position light (CPL) style I need (Norfolk & Western) and the Type D (traffic light style) for my interchange railroad (former Clinchfield), and I think they have Searchlights. For control I’d recommend talking to Speed (from NMRAx), that’s mostly what I’m gonna use, it’s spectacularly inexpensive way to interface with signals and puts all the logic into JMRI (or other software), and I would expect the signal logic to be the more complicated part for most people.
I think the operational style to be the most interesting part of signal logic and the decisions we must make to implement a signal system. It’s interesting to me the differences people choose around CTC, providing protection + permission vs ABS, which just provides for protection but not permission. In those cases permission must be provided separately, via Track Warrant, Train Order, or just “Mother may I?”. I’m of the belief most layout owners who want to start operating it would benefit by starting with Track Warrants, as that’s pretty easy, has a low barrier to entry, and an initial low (or zero) cost.
As always, thanks for sharing, and your videos often get me thinking even beyond your showcase.
Yes. Showcase Miniatures has excellent kits that I could fashion into Canadian CP/CN style. You can also modify the SP Atlas Signals as well if you want you. Thanks Andy ~ Cheers!
Soldering a wire and then clamping in a terminal is considered bad practice in the electrical industry. It makes the wire more likely to break and the solder can move over time making a bad connection. Either twist it tightly or the best way is to use boot lace ferrules crimped on the wire ends, as with other crimping use the correct size crimp for the wire size. For flux using rosin cored solder doesn't require extra flux and if you do, use flux for electronic components. I've seen acid flux joints, even after being cleaned, still rot out some years later.
Some would disagree with you but that is O.K. I have RC components (in model aircraft) soldered this way and after twenty years they still look fine. ;-) Cheers.
I think your Dusty woulf like my Dekker!
;-)
I just completed an electronic circuit for highway crossings and am quite pleased with it. My next project is going to be creating occupancy detectors and then an ABS system. Perhaps the other way around. I can just tell you are not going to install LEDs in the middle of your tracks as they just, in my opinion, destroy the realism. Likewise, time controlled systems, as they are just not prototypical. If you have an interest, let me know and we'll figure a way to get our personal contact information to each other. I would be tickled to help you get your system the way you would like.
Thanks for offering to help. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Nice tutorial and always useful. I understand that was a "try experiment" and not really a protorypical one.
But 2 things here. In that situation, railroads will put a second one on the "main line" some distances after the switch (turnout) for train running in opposite direction. And a third one also after that turnout on the second track. So in any direction or track, train receives authorisation to pass signal and continue their journey. That mean cost signal is not 1 but 2 or in that case 3....and farther one, at the other end of that siding, an other 3. It´s more than 500 $ for a single block. And i don´t mention the fun of plugging them so they can communicate and work together accordingly....or run by train orders and timetable like you did in the past.
Chuuut....don´t tell no one, but
switchstand indication is always yellow....so first moving train should have entered on siding and make a nice head on on second waiting train....but.don´t worry. No one notice it.😊😊😊
Sorry for that nitpicking, but your work is so full in details and realistic that i couldn´t resist. Don´t worry, in all layout there is always a part of fiction, or imaginative in our head and that´s OK. We´re still dreaming kids.
Now you find a useful job for Dusty under the layout, to work on signal control devices 😂.
Thanks Boomer ❤❤
It's the "first" signal as noted. ;-) Cheers.
@@boomerdioramaexperimentation is good. CP Rail put a mile of catenary wire in the
70´ in the Rockies even if it never had an electric locomotive. It was to see in the field how it will resist with the time, maintenance etc... everything was finally removed.
Now many railroads try battery locomotives and different means of propulsion. Yours is in signal mode.
One thing I noted as 'missing" - a relay cabinet (grey/silver), or is it there and I'm not seeing it 😁. I guess it could be assumed but hidden by the trees..
It's built but I never placed it yet.😁
Howdy Boomer! I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer... but I'm thinking maybe your block of switches probably uses a common ground on all 4 switches. And if they are in one position there might be a little bleed or interference that was confusing the board. Did you ever find out for sure? Just spit balling here... but I know very little on the subject. Hell I have to be nekid to count to 21... so... 😁 Nicely done and thanks for sharing! 🤠
I think you are right about that. It's the only thing that makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to "spit - ball" 😉Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Great video! That view from the end of that line is amazing with the trains moving through. The signal brings more life to it! Did you put the big tree back?
No. The point of the solid tree line is to thin it out (as per prototype) when I decide to balance things out. I never did want a solid tree line here to begin with, but this is how I shape composition - later. I never implement final until way down the road. ;-) Cheers.
I’m very interested in learning how to replace the G style signal head with an SP style signal head…
You just unplug the whole signal and replace it with the Atlas SP style. The latter are from BLMA which Atlas bought out years ago. 😁
👍👍👍
Cheers!
That is weird that the signal wouldn't work right the first time. As you said, the 3 unused switches aren't even connected to anything so their positions should be and I think are irrelevant. However, switch 1 must be in the off position when powering on the system just so the logic circuit input has zero voltage going in via the yellow wire to begin with. That's my thought on the "why" anyway.
After thinking it through I believe you are correct. ;-)
Boomer looks great.👍👍🚂🚂🚃🚃🚃
Cheers!
Hi Boomer, once you talked about doing a video about your scratch build switch stand. Is that going to happen? They look so nice!!! Hace a nice day!!!!
Those switch stands are not scratch built. I know I mentioned trying to build some but I think I will leave that for the 3D printers for now. Cheers.
Excellent video. I am taking a stab at a shelf layout soon and hadn't thought about signals but now I think I will plan for them. Do you just reach underneath to throw the toggle? thanks for inspiration.
Yes. Just for now though. I mean, you can set it up on a panel (or whatever) if you want to act like the dispatcher, etc. - or down the road, you can pull out the manual switch and then add in the track sensors and circuit board component that plugs into the atlas board as well - as the "next" future step to automation.
What do real railroads with signal no more in service, or in, that we never see on layouts ?
They turn the lights on the pole 90 degrees toward the "field" or opposite to tracks meaning a clear indication to train crew that the signal is not working or in use. Eventually old signals are completely removed with only concrete base left.
With railroads replacing old style with the new one reversed U shape shield so can you do on your layout. In semaphore days, you can put a new searchlight signal not yet in service with turned lenses.
Sure that little detail will come a discussion subject among your visitors..´´
Great point there. ;-)
extremely helpful. But why did you put the switch underneath your layout and not on the fascia?
I want a clean Facia. 😁
Be nice if it would stay yellow ling as you want it to and change colors manually
You can do that. I just need to wire into the Atlas four-way switch with the additional CTC features the Atlas board already comes with. I'm waiting on other accessories. 😁
Ok Boomer, not the usual material I expect, enjoy and benefit from but none-the-less, I enjoyed it and as I use a lot of electronics for other thing found it interesting. However, what's up with your left hand?
Thanks again for sharing with us.
Bob
Thanks for sharing Bob.
I always appreciate your comments. I suffer from severe allergies in the winter accompanied with a few skin anomalies as well. In the summer months, with the fires we have, I practically suffocate and choke if I go outside, etc. One of the reasons why I moved to all water-based products as well as they do not affect my respiratory like other solvents do. It all clears up on it's own time as it seems to be seasonal. Skin and Respiratory Allergies can haunt the elderly at any time. ;-)
Cheers.
i noticed that my Allergies got a lot better after I stopped using solvent based paints too. I'm glade it's not something more serious.@@boomerdiorama
I stopped using solvent based lacquers, etc, 25 years ago. I had friends in the industry who died before retirement because of epoxy enamels, lacquers ,etc. That is why I gave up on enamel Humbrol paints as well. Really harsh stuff for sure.@@bobharris5872
Can we have a bus line just hooked to the power supply and just as you installed the one then continue on to the next signal installing manually ? Or will we have to have a new power pack at every signal ? I’m totally new to the wiring for the signals .
Yes. Just install an accessory bus dedicated to the signal system only. And then tap into each circuit board (in parallel) along the way under the layout.
I will be using 20 gauge bus (Red/Black) wire with one 12 Volt power pack as you stated. You can buy a 12 volt power pack for twenty bucks at the model railroad store - or electronics shop, and then add an on-off switch. I will also install a separate bus for all the lighting accessories (buildings, street lamps, etc.) as well - not to mention my track bus. That would amount to three separate bus wire circuits for track, signals, and lighting accessories (buildings, etc.). ;-)
Hi Boomer, just a thought I know you have Loksound decoders in your locomotives, do you have the Lokprogrammer for them ? If so you may interested in using the ESU Signalpilot option in future which can be set up using the Lokprogrammer. Signals really make a layout (any size) pop, especially for night scenes. Love your work brother !
Yes, I do have the Lokprogrammer. I was considering the ESU Signal system, so yes, it is not out of the equation for the larger picture. Thanks for sharing that. Cheers.
I haven't read up the Atlas PC board, but basically, it provides an automatic way to delay the signal prototypical manner.? Sort confused the reason for it...would you want to mount the switch bank to make it easier to use? Does it provide the use of a proximity sensor for block occupancy? Thanks for the video. It's not easy filming delicate work ....Perry
It's the entry level install with manual switch to get things working. That is the whole purpose before you go into automation. ;-)
Would be a good thing if Atles would offer more then one type of signal
They do have more than one type of signal. The have awesome signals they now produce which they inherited from BLMA. I am planning to use a few. I have mixed feelings about Atlas as well, but some stuff they produce are awesome.
They do. Check out the latest ones (single and double target searchlight) they inherited when they bought out BLMA. I just used this one because it came with the kit. ;-)
I bet next thing you will be showing us how easy it is to install a DDC decoder LOL.
Funny you mention that. It is already in the production can with the full HO Scale Atlas SD35 #385 for the River Road Roster soon! Cheers ~ Boomer.
I've been looking at these for a while, but have hesitated because most of them have a big black cable going out from the post to the lights/face (and cost). Is that external cable prototypical? I am just looking for two-light dwarf (or other style) signals to indicate turnout positions and I see some by Showcase Miniatures that seem more attractive to me.
I plan to build a few "Showcase Miniature" SIgnals as well. This particular one will be replaced down the road anyway. Even then, all the bus and wiring is done anyway regardless of what I do from here.
The point is getting those unfamiliar with signalling to find a way in and then decide from there. The newer Atlas "SP" style Signals are quite nice and I plan to use some of those which I can easily modify to look Canadian anyway. They have a much smaller cable as you mentioned and I can alter the Search light legs easily. This way they are still "plug-and-play" with clean dummy proof plugs, etc.. Cheers. ;-) 😁
Thank you@@boomerdiorama
Yes, the cable is prototypical for a front of post mounted signal head. A dwarf signal, or top of post mount for that matter, would have the cable coming from underneath and not seen easily on a dwarf (depending on the base used there may be 3-4" of conduit seen between base and signal) and not at all with top mount signal head.
Thank you. I personally don't go too deep on being prototypical vs. something being convincing and simply whether I like it... To me the cables look weird... I may change my mind later when I get to installing signals because they are nice overall, but for now, I'm still looking.@@garyrose8188
hi boomer what about having to reach under the layout ever time that might get to be to much
It's just temporary. One screw and I can move it until I automate it. ;-)
are you going to walk us thur the whole thig?@@boomerdiorama
🎶🚂💨💨🎵👍😊
Cheers!
There's any easier way to wire everything up. I've been in electronics since 1985; my dad had TV repair business on the side so remember using tube checkers for TV sets. That said you've done everything correct.
Thank you! Wiring is not my favorite thing but it is necessary and can be fun if we take a methodical approach. 😁
Absolutely, as a EE myself, I would recommend to anyone, to not create the logic with logic gates, switching logic, or relays, that’s a big undertaking. If one just gets all the signal aspects setup as effectively “accessory” layout lighting, the the logic can be built much more easily with JMRI or other layout control software, or even automation software like NodeRed running on a $35 RaspberryPi.
If you go o, c, s, it's way cheaper LOL either way, awesome way of doing things.
Yes. The options . . . ;-) Thanks for sharing. Cheers.