Engage / Disengage: The Best Reactive Dog Training Exercise
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2021
- The Engage / Disengage game is a reactive dog training exercise that encourages the dog to look at a trigger (aka engage with the trigger) and then disengage by looking away.
How Does It Work?
The disengage action is marked and rewarded with a treat. With this technique, the dog learns to break their focus on the trigger and receive a reward, working to counter-condition nervous or fearful emotions surrounding the trigger. This dog reactivity training game is also commonly referred to as the "Look At This" (LAT) game.
How to Play the Engage / Disengage Game
00:27 Step 1: Let the Dog View the Trigger
00:46 Step 2: Teach the Dog to Disengage
00:57 Step 3: Mark & Reward
02:02 Step 4: Rinse & Repeat
03:19: Working on a Focus Command
04:26 Why Does This Exercise Help Reactive Dogs?
05:23 Troubleshooting With the Engage / Disengage Game
09:10 The Reactivity Trigger Tracker & Dog Journal
More Reactive Dog Training Resources:
Reactivity Trigger Tracker: www.subscribepage.com/reactiv...
K9 of Mine's Leash Reactive Dogs Article: www.k9ofmine.com/leash-reacti...
I’m a Veterinarian of 22 years, and never have I seen desensitization/counterconditioning explained so well! Fear/anxiety/reactivity is the most common behavioral condition seen in day practice. This is smart, concise and engaging. Keep up your great work - you’re an excellent trainer/behavioralist!
Oh my gosh, thank you so much for the kind words. It means a lot coming from a vet!
Veterinarian here too. Shared this video today. Really great concepts and you demo it succinctly. Really awesome 💯! Thank you!
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
I'm crying after watching this... We just adopted a Pitbull mix from the shelter last week, she's a super sweetie with us and other people, but we quickly learned she's very dog aggressive and taking her on walks has been extremely challenging and embarrassing. I broke down the other day after a really bad encounter with a group of dogs and told my husband I'm not sure I can do this thinking she's not going to get any better. But since then I have been doing SO MUCH research and binge-watching so many helpful videos online, and now I go out armed with some treats (she ignored my chicken on the last walk so we need to up the ante lol) and I have a clicker and we've been doing lots of basic training at home. Your video gave me so much hope and I wanted to thank you for posting it
It really is tough Sarah, and I commend you a lot for sticking with this poor baby girl! Hang in there. It can take time but you'll see progress eventually. Just make sure to keep track of your walks and all those small wins, because it can be easy to miss the changes your dog will make month-to-month, when sometimes those day-to-day wins are easy to ignore or forget about. If your pup isn't taking chicken, you may need to try a different treat or she just might be too close to her triggers. Some dogs need a lot more space than others, at least at first. Also don't be afraid to enlist the help of a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant if you need some professional help, they may be able give that extra set of eyes you need. Good luck!
How'd it go?
@@InGreed666 it’s been a year now and Bailey’s reactivity had improved so much from using this method! She still loses focus when a dog gets close but it’s still a work in progress and she’s gotten much better
@@Sarah_Lux that's so great to hear 🙏 🙏 🙏
@@Sarah_Lux This has given me so much inspiration, thank you sarah. I have a very reactive goldendoodle puppy and its been discouraging and embarrassing every time he loses it. Im gonna keep trying and it’s great to know im not the only person who’s experienced this
Engage-disengage is bar none the best method I've used with my fear-reactive dog. It's a huge game-changer, to the point that my dog is beginning to show signs of curiosity towards calm dogs once we've passed by them (she will turn around and try to smell the air behind them) and offers calming/avoidance signals towards barking dogs behind fences, rather than lunging and barking herself. We also use it in the car in parking lots and its cut her reactivity to people more than anything else I've ever tried. It's truly amazing!
I know a lot of trainers say you can't/shouldnt train while over threshhold, and we definitely try to avoid such situations at all costs, but I also have always marked and rewarded disengagement on occasions where my dog goes over threshold unavoidably (sudden loose dogs, etc.). We just keep moving, moving, moving away from the trigger and as soon as she looks away I mark/reward. It helps me to focus on the good behavior rather than the bad, and she now disengages and relaxes a lot faster than she used to after a blowout.
Just discovered your channel and I'm hooked, thanks for the awesome content!
That sounds like a tremendous success, great work! :D
I just wanted to say thank you for actually giving a whole lesson rather than part of one and then asking for money. I'm not a wealthy person, mostly because much of my income goes on my beautiful dogs! I rescued a gorgeous Airedale Terrier a couple of months ago. She is my fourth Airedale, so not a new breed to me. She is 3 and a half and has no health issues. She is, however, highly anxious and shows aggression towards other dogs. Like many of us in this blog, I have researched the hell out of the web, asked trainers advice, and finally found your site and video. It makes total sense to me and I will put it into action. Stand by for the results. Thank you again.
I hope these strategies work for you! There are definitely some great paid courses that go more into detail, but I hope I can at least summarize the core ideas for those who need a place to start.
I have been using exactly these two approaches with my reactive border collie, and they are the most effective techniques, in particular the first one.
I combine these also with building general engagement, eg. Through play and training and movement so that the dog is used to me being „interesting“.
Despite already using these approaches, this video is incredible helpful, as it explains it very well. I have put it on my rewatch list.
Aw thank you so much! Sounds like you and your border collie are doing some great work. Congrats and well done!
I've been playing this game with my dog for a couple weeks now! I call this game "Look!". This command is to look at whatever I point at. if there are no triggers, she scans the area and then looks back at me. If there is a trigger (another dog), she'll look at the trigger for a few seconds, and then back at me. Then I reward , praise, move to another position and then do it again :)
Sounds like a great game, I love it!
This is one of the best videos I have ever seen about reactive dog training, and I have watched a LOT!! You really hit the heart of the issue and I particularly like that you have options other than a clicker, since not all of us do this. I was particularly touched when you advised those who might be overwhelmed, how to begin in a less complex way. You are doing such AMAZING work by sharing knowledge in this way so absolutely everyone can participate. I admire you deeply and congratulate you for all the dogs and owners you will help in the future!!!!
Thank you so much for the kind words Barbara! I know working with a reactive dog isn't easy so I try to offer what I've learned from working with Remy in any way that I can!
i hope this helps someone else out, we dont use a clicker for training, instead we use the word YES as a marker cue. Short n sweet and fast to say. I've not had to juggle the clicker because of this & it works really well.
Marker words like "yes" are awesome and can definitely be easier to manage than a clicker. The only issue you might run into is that if you have different folks in your family working on training, it can be hard to stick to a consistent annunciation and tone, which is really important for the market word. Even just using the marker word myself I'm not always great at keeping the same sound and tone. The upside of a clicker is that it's always clear and the same.
There's nothing wrong with a marker word, but some people have a lot more success with a clicker, so definitely try both if you can!
wicked video!! Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this, super thorough and encouraging!
I've been using this method for years, I love this video!
Explained so well thank you 👍🐾
Absolutely great work. Thank you!
One of best videos. Thank you b
Very well done. Will share.
Thank you
Great video, I like that it's clear and easy to follow
Very helpful video! I am trying to train my wheel-reactive dog and this is the best video I've found!
Aw thanks, glad it was helpful! :D
Thank you very much for this video, it is super informative and helpful! Can't wait to see more!
Glad it was helpful! I love doing training videos so you'll definitely keep seeing more!
@@K9ofMine Awesome, I can't wait!
super helpful video!!!
I'm so glad!
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making this video! You do a great job explaining the technique, why it works and how to trouble shoot and realistic expectation setting for the time this may take. I loved the video footage as well. I've used this with dogs in a shelter environment and in private consultations and it works well. I personally prefer it to CAT or BAT as most people - myself included - feel like we want to be involved and "do something" rather than the more passive (but still very helpful) desensitization offered by CAT and BAT. Keep up your great work.
This was explained so clearly and easy to follow ❤️ thank you for your hard work 🎉
You're so welcome!
This is just too cute!! He's got it all figured out!
Haha he sure does!
Amazing! Go Remi :)
A great, very informative video with clear explanation. I have a six year old black Labrador and he is lead reactive to the point where I have literally been pulled into the ground when he lunged at another dog on the lead! Another time I was pulled into the road as he saw another dog on the opposite side! I have started to follow your instructions and can already see a difference in my dog. Thank you!
Fantasic Quality Video, your voice is very soothing and clear for us shattered owners 🥴 I cannot wait to begin
Aw thank you! And I knows it’s really tough (ok, agonizing) early on, but it really does get better!
This is the clearest, most concise video I've seen on the topic. My 1.5 yo pup has started reacting to people at random. It started w kids on scooters and has escalated. I have my job cut out for me. Thank you for what you do!
It can definitely be tough having a reactive pup! Hang in there and best of luck.
I recently adopted a border collie. He is so sweet at home but found out he is fear reactive with humans and dogs. We started going to private classes and this is one of the things we need to do. I really like your video showing how far you are and how to do step by step! Please keep posting updates and how you guys are doing. It’s hard to find positive training when it comes to reactivity!
Thanks for the kind words. Keep up the great work, I know how stressful it can be having a reactive dog! It's so upsetting to not see more R+ based strategies for working with a reactive dog - especially because it's the only way to actually get to the root of the issue and implement behavior modification that helps a dog get over their fear and stress!
You and dog make it look easy. Mine is at full alert with either vision or smell of another dog. Sometimes treat work, then she barks for more treats.
I’ll be the first to admit it’s definitely not easy! Ha well at least if she’s asking for more treats she’s not reacting to triggers 😉
This seems like really good advice I can't wait to try it! I have a 14week GSD and I've discovered she's very dog reactive at puppy school! I'm finding it stressful and embarrassing how she'll freak out at the other puppies so we have to move behind a screen so she can't see the other puppies. She's frightened of them, but she's fine with my other dog at home and my friends staffy. I've never had a reactive dog before so I had noidea how to deal with it. This seems really doable for me, thank you so much for having such a nice easy to follow video with really clear instructions. The engage/disengage thing is great! And teaching my dog focus or look at me is such a good idea I need to teach her to do it. I'm trying to be nice and calm and patient with her but I can definitely feel my stress levels rising when she's barking and won't calm down with other puppies.
Two questions, is it normal to use loads and loads of treats? and is this forever? I really hope not because I feel like I'm spending a lot on the treats as well as the dog food (I don't really mind but I'm hoping it won't be like this forever)
It's totally normal to feel stressed out! I used to feel really upset and anxious whenever my dog behaved reactively too, but the more you understand why your dog is behaving like that (and you've astutely noted it's related to fear) and learn how to manage a reactive dog, the easier it gets!
It's also worth remembering that puppies do go through fear periods throughout puppyhood, so there's a chance she'll chill out a bit with enough positive pup experiences.
To answer your question about treats - it's totally normal to use a ton of treats! I would rather start out using too many treats than too few. Eventually, once you learn your pup's threshold and what is challenging or not as challenging for her, you can use fewer treats. But honestly, I would not hold back. I'd suggest simply tallying your treat use and subtracting those calories from your dog's meals. If you feed kibble you can even use that in low-stress situations as a reward! Also, don't feel like you have to spend tons of money on fancy dog treats - a lot of owners find hot dog pieces and string cheese work great for many dogs!
Will treats be forever? Yes and no. Once your dog has learned to feel calmer and comfortable around strange dogs, you certainly won't need to constantly be throwing out treats. But some situations might always be more challenging - such as being near large dogs, certain breeds of dogs, or running dogs. It depends, every dog has different triggers. But some triggers and situations may be challenging enough that you and your dog will always benefit from having treats on hand as a motivator or management tool when you need to get away from an unexpected situation ASAP.
I hope that helps! Good luck with your pup
Boil boneless skinless chicken breast and shred or dice it. Less expensive and healthier.
Awesome, thank you for sharing. This is very helpful. Shall I still let my dog go and say hi to other dogs from time to time? Or when going to the dog beach park?
Glad the video was helpful Adrian! If your dog is reactive I wouldn't let it off leash or let it approach other dogs to say hello. It's just too risky, you have no control or knowledge about the other dogs' history or temperament, and a chance encounter can really set your dog back if things don't go well.
However, you could give your dog the opportunity to socialize with the guidance of a dog behavior expert who has access to known calm or "bombproof" dogs who won't react or escalate the situation with your own dog.
Letting your dog interact with unknown dogs is rarely worth the risk!
This is an excellent video , I donot however see the link for the tools mentioned . I like to see more vieos from you as well
I can add a list of some of the tools we used in the description if you’d like!
I love your videos! We have been trying this method for a while now. Im just wondering, do you go to places to train this where you can remain and stand still at a safe distance? What about 'regular' walks, do we stand still as soon as he sees the trigger and train or do we also keep walking and try to train this while doing so?
I'd recommend building "look at me" into your walks and even when you're getting ready to leave for your walks, so your dog gets into the habit of checking in with you. That way it will be more natural response for your dog if a higher-stress situation arises.
Such an informative video! you explain things very well. I have a 4yr old reactive dog who cannot stand strangers. I've tried so many trainers and methods that do not work for her. I recently started with the clicker and have found it a little overwhelming to get the timing right and to hold so many different things in my hands while clinging onto her leash so her won't go for someone. Thank you for this, i'm excited to try again!!
It can definitely feel overwhelming at first but I promise it gets easier w practice. Starting with a market word might be easier initially. Good luck!
took my dogs out with chicken, I was able to get their attention as soon as they got triggered. certainly feel like were on the right method now. won't be as nervous foing forward., thanks for the tips.
Hey that's AWESOME news!! Great work and here's to your continued success!
thank you for this! i’m worried it won’t work because at this point my dog barks like he’s trying to kill every person or dog he sees anywhere... even in the vet office we have to hold him facing towards a wall so he won’t bark at the nurses!! i’m still going to try these exercises because it’s really embarrassing. hopefully it works! ❤️
Vet offices are super scary, so that’s totally understandable. Just start out working at a big distance - whatever distance your dog needs to stay calm. It might be really far at first, but that’s OK!
This is a great video! If your dog does react, then looks back at you, do you still reward? I have been but sometimes it feels like it isn’t getting better.
I would say yes, I think it's good to reward engagement with you as much as possible. Some would advise not to. But ideally, you really want to avoid him reacting. That should be your primary goal. So I'd say focus on getting the distance, space, and engagement (before approaching the dog and as you approach) you need to have him not react. Because the more they get the experience of reacting, the more liable they will be to repeat it.
Thank you for making this video. It’s very clear and encouraging! One difficulty I have is knowing how far away I need to be to keep my dog under threshold because his reaction varies so much. Some dogs he barely notices, yet others further away send him into orbit. Any advice for this? Just start extra far away and upon success move closer?
That can be tricky for sure! I'd suggest trying to see if there is some kind of pattern you can detect in regards to which kinds of dogs he struggles most with. Some dogs have a harder time with larger dogs, or smaller dogs, or dogs of a certain breed.
I know many dogs are a lot more triggered by huskies and other dogs with fluffy, high tails and high, pointed ears. This is because that kind of posturing is intimidating in the dog world, but some breeds are just built that way naturally!
Being able to detect some patterns when it comes to which dogs are tougher for your guy will be ideal!
I love this protocol. But your dog in a mini-freeze, is much easier to disengage than one like our, a twirling dervish cujo lookalike. It's fear based, but looks scary. And, the distance required for any disengagement varies by the day. I'd love to see your video with a much more reactive dog. And, I can say that this very protocol DOES work, as we have seen some progress - but it is very slow and often frustrating for all.
Definitely harder with a twirler! Remy used to lunge and flip around too early on. I would say a reaction like that means the dog is already over threshold. So you would need to make sure you get more distance and/or start using high value treats earlier. So for example, walking down a street I’d suggest doing treat scatters or pattern games immediately when you see the other dog in the distance, and use something like a magnet hand (aka holding a treat right to their face) for the closest distance you’ll have passing by.
I’ll see if I can get my hands on a more reactive dog to demo - there are certainly some at the shelter I volunteer at!
Hi 👋 and thank you from over here in UK. I’ve tried out your method on my 9 month old puppy, who became fearful of some men - but mainly elderly. Other triggers of his have been runners or people in reflective clothing or noisy people. It’s working, so I guess I’m doing it ok. I have noticed that he can get ‘trigger stacked’ so he will become over threshold, so we just calmly move away from those triggers and go on a sniffari on the way home. He’s not a rescue and is well socialised and had positive life experiences. I guess it could be related to his allergies or genetics/both?
It sounds like you're doing a great job! The good news is that for a puppy of that age, he could be going through a fear period (www.k9ofmine.com/fear-periods-in-dogs/). This is a totally normal phase and he might come out of it just fine -- especially considering the desensitization work you're putting in.
Genetics can definitely have a huge impact, so can't discount that either. And while I can't say firsthand the effect of allergies on a dog's reactivity, if a dog is experiencing medical issues or is just not feeling so great, that can certainly can have an impact on how sensitive they are. I know I feel a lot crankier during allergy season!
Keep up the great work! Your pup is lucky to have you in his corner.
Thanks….Great video, however I’m wondering if by treating when the dog looks at you after looking away from the other dog you may be rewarding the dog for reacting in the first place.
Nope, you're rewarding the dog for disengaging from the trigger! If you were giving the dog treats as the dog was staring and barking at the trigger, some people might claim that you could potentially reinforce the reactive behavior, but even then, most behavior experts would tell you not to worry about that.
Why? Because reactivity is an emotional response, and you can't reinforce emotions. So for example, since most dogs display a reactive behavior due to fear or stress, you can't reinforce a dog's fear. Instead, when incorporating something positive like treats or play in relation to triggers, you're actually doing counter-conditioning work. You're changing the dog's association with the trigger to something positive, rather than negative.
So, in short, while rewarding your dog for disengaging is the ideal goal, I would say don't even worry too much about whether you're reinforcing the right behavior. Just work on changing your dog's association with the triggers!
Can you do a video on superexcited dog when we are about to go out for a walk
I’ll put it in my queue!
Very helpful thank you. Any tips on how to manage my dog on leash when he gets the zoomies? So bizarre still trying to narrow down what triggers that but it’s kind of embarrassing and stressful for me to keep him safe while he’s zooming. Any advice ?
Hey Kristin - I'm not completely certain, but it might be helpful to channel some of his zoomie energy into quick cues (like touch) or doggie push ups (sit, lie down, sit, lie down), or just some treat scatters in nearby grass to help him refocus and sniff (which is soothing for dogs). Alternatively, you could try some of the pattern games demonstrated in our loose leash walking tutorial here: czcams.com/video/TXATdaNhYic/video.html
Other folks might have some better suggestions though, I haven't had to deal with this much.
Is there a space you can take your dog to run offleash once in awhile? My whippet tends to get zoomies only when he doesn't get enough time to run around.
Thank you for the very informative video. I‘m trying this method with my dog. Sometimes it does work, but its really difficult to get his focus when a dog comes closer.. most of the time he just starts barking or lunging. I feel like it helps him to focus on me sometimes but his overall behavior towards other dogs didnt change. My question is: does this method help for socialization? Do I have to do that forever? 😅 i want my dog to have friends… it always seems like he wants to get closer to other dogs but then he gets mad. :(
That's a great question Kai! I'd suggest checking out our other video on 11 Reactive Dog Training Hacks, as that discusses in more detail how you'll want to keep your dog below threshold by staying at a certain distance away from triggers.
I know how you feel about wanting your dog to have dog friends because I used to feel the same way. But truthfully, it's not going to be in the cards for all dogs. Many dogs (even non-reactive ones) would rather hang out with their favorite humans than other dogs (especially obnoxious ones). I'd ask yourself - does your dog really need or want dog friends? Or is that just something you expect of them? From what you describe, it doesn't sound like your dog is really all that interested in having dog friends - and that's absolutely fine!
As long as you are providing plenty of physical exercise, mental enrichment activities (like nosework, puzzle toys, and shredding), and you are socializing with your dog through social play, your dog should have everything he needs to be happy!
@@K9ofMine omg thank you so much for your kind answer. sorry for my late respond, I just read it yesterday. the problem is that I live in the city and it seems like there are more dogs than humans haha! so it's impossible to avoid them.. the best would be if my dog could coexist with them, also for me, because it's so stressfull.. I want to enjoy a good walk with my dog, instead we go home and I'm exhausted, but I'm pretty sure that you know what I'm going through, so of course I want him to have dog friends. He needs more physical exercise but since we live in the city with so many dogs it's difficult, I try to give him a lot of mental activities at home at least, at home he seems really relaxed and happy :D .. we've been making good progress lately, sometimes he relapses though (there are so many irresponsible dog owners who won't call their dogs even if you ask them to do so.. it's pretty annoying. some people even find it funny when a dog goes crazy on a leash. just because my dog looks cute doesn't mean that he can't get angry and for me/us it's definitely not funny) I try to stay patient and I hope that we'll get better and better.. thanks again for your answer and good videos!
@@CUNexTuesday23 I agree, it's very sad how many people think it's funny to upset, annoy, or even scare small dogs just because they are small. It sounds like you are doing everything in your powder to give your guy plenty of mental and physical enrichment, and I applaud you for that!
As far as city walks, maybe you could try using parked cars or trees as sight line barriers? I find blocking some dogs' sightline to triggers really does wonders, it might help you get through walks more easily. I know some folks who drive their reactive dogs to quieter neighborhoods or parks, but that's of course not an option for everyone.
I'm glad you're seeing progress - hang in there, you'll hopefully continue to see more!
Trying this with my own pitty who is human reactive to most people on walks! It’s super hard so far but I am trying best.. :( !! Thank you for this video.. He’s so friendly ANYWHERE ELSE but on our walks? Not sure why.. still, I’m rambling now- thank you for this video
That's interesting Athena! When you say he's only reactive on walks, do you mean he's fine indoors as well as at parks or coffee shops? My own guy is super friendly inside and OK with people on walks for the most part, but definitely a bit iffy when people approach him on walks because the outdoors is just SO darn stimulating for him, he's almost always on edge outside.
I wonder how your guy might react on walks that aren't his usual route, like on a hike or at a new park.
@@K9ofMine he’s good inside, at the park and at the pet store too! Just on walks, ESPECIALLY when they are approaching us. It is very interesting because I do happen to take him to a hiking spot where it gets very busy, and he’s fine there too. It’s usually when someone will just come out of nowhere from an empty sidewalk I suppose?.. Not to mention he also reacts such a way outside of my home, if there is someone walking and coming towards our house, he will react as well.
@@K9ofMine I haven’t tried taking him into a new walking route just yet, I’m afraid his reaction might be worse in that case 😬.. maybe I’ll give it a try one day
That’s interesting! My guy is pretty alert outside and I’ve found that when there is other stuff to do and sniff, or there are SO many people around that it doesn’t seem special, he is calmer. Sounds like you have a good base to start with, I’d just keep up w the counter conditioning/desensitization. Good luck!
I tell my dog ''sniff'' so he can focus on the environnement instead of going crazy with just a person walking by
Great idea!
@@K9ofMine my dog is very environnement motivated..I also realize that my dog is more reactive if loose than if in heel position and engage as much as possible
I'd like to see this demonstrated with a dog who is barking like mad at a trigger!! HOW do I get mine to disengage when she's in a barking frenzy which happens when s a dog or person walks by my yard? Thanks!
Hi Peggy! So the tricky thing is, if your dog is already barking and lunging like crazy, you’ve already lost. You really need to focus on predicting your dog’s triggers and understanding what distance they need to stay cool. It kind of becomes it’s own language between you and your dog, but it definitely takes some trial and error at first.
The thing is, once your dog is in that hysterical state, they can’t learn anymore. They are over threshold. Learning can only happen when the dog is in a more neutral state. So your primary goal at all times is to never put your dog in a situation where they are going to go over threshold.
But what if your dog is barking so much they won't take a treat?
If your dog is barking and lunging and won't take treats, they're already way over threshold! You'll need to start at a further distance away from the triggers where your dog can still keep his cool. The goal is to keep your dog below his threshold (aka his point of no return), and keep him calm and relaxed in that state. Higher value treats can also help too.
Thank you so much! My dog is VERY reactive 😅 the problem I have is that my dog gets BORED of food very quickly. I have tried different treats for him and he only likes it for 1 or 2 trainings and then doesnt eat anymore. I have to get raw chicken just to get his attention 😅 that doesnt feel so good in my trainer pocket/bag 😂 esp when its hot outside 🤢
Haha yup, they love the grossest, wettest, messiest treats the most! I usually try to line a treat pouch with a little plastic baggy for the super wet ones.
Play can also be a good reward! Tug works on walks.
Great video. If you could use “cue” instead of command the video would be even better. Just a thought.
I totally understand the sentiment! A lot of folks are just more familiar with the term "command", but in general I try to use both "command" and "cue" to add some language variety.
I was on your website and ready about this but with a puppy if your dog wasn’t use to it to give it a treat when the puppy came to you? Do you have a video on that? It says it was below on your website but the link doesn’t work.
Hey Amber! Not sure I understand your question, but if you need more resources on reactivity, the links in the video description do work. You might just need to copy and paste them. If you're looking to learn more about recall (ie having a dog come when called), we have a full video on that here: czcams.com/video/QIt80uBuQT4/video.html
Can you recommend high value dog treats? My dog doesn't seem to pay attention to the snacks I've tried.
Cheese is always a great choice! Hot dogs and boiled chicken works great too for most pups.
What about invisible things like noises and wind? Would I disengage him after he reacts to the sound or gust of wind?
If those things are triggering for him, you absolutely could!
Hi there, my dog is reactive to other dogs, I'm trying this and the result was he did look at and go back to me for a brief second but then his attention is immediately fixed on the trigger again, do I reward this brief second and continue building on from there
Hi Tuan - just keep rewarding for those moments when he can break his focus and look at you! If he's really struggling you can try further distances, as that might help him maintain focus on you for longer periods.
What do you do for at home reactivity where you can't move away from a trigger that pushes the dog way over threshold?
I'd suggest utilizing gates if you can. It kind of depends on the situation, but when I first got Remy he got super aroused around basically any movement. I put up gates between all the rooms in my house and whenever he started to nip or bite at me, I'd step over a gate and leave the room. Then I'd return with a toy and redirect him to it, only engaging if he played politely with the toy and didn't nip me.
It's hard for me to say if this method would work regarding reactivity. Is the reactivity towards guests or someone/something in the house?
What about when the dog is trying the get the Amazon man and wants to bite them? But when at Home Depot the park or anywhere but home they love everyone? Any tips directly for the yard.
Boston Terrier if that matters. He does not like any one in the yard not just the Amazon man that was just a example.
You would just do the same exercise with the dog on a leash, either outside in the yard or inside nearby - wherever your dog can disengage and refocus on you when the mail man is around.
My hyper reactive shelter dog is making good progress in the month we have been working using your method, and he's learning rapidly inside and outside in the back yard. But, if I even take him to the street and there is nothing there, he stiffens and is prepared for battle. I am not able to physically restraining him when he lunges. So, is there a time when it is better to get professional help? Thanks.
Poor guy! It sounds like he is just super stressed and being outside is just really tough for him. My guy used to be very much the same. We just went nice and slow, doing multiple ultra-short neighborhood walks with high-value treats to keep him moving.
In that kind of ultra-sensitive state you really can't work much on reactivity - he needs to just first get a little more comfortable and relaxed in the outdoor environment, in general. He probably won't be able to handle stimuli like dogs in that state, even with high-value treats. So, just basic desensitization work to your neighborhood is a good place to start. This might mean just starting by sitting in your driveway doing treat scatters a few times a day for a week. Then, try walking just one block down the street and back. You'll need to really take baby steps to help him adapt to the environment and slowly get more comfortable.
But, if he's that anxious outside, it might be worth asking your vet about anxiety meds. If your vet isn't sure how to help, I'd suggest consulting with a certified veterinary behaviorist (czcams.com/video/SLDrc5d66JY/video.html). Good luck!
@@K9ofMine Thank you. He has made a lot of progress with engage/disengage since last month and I am becoming better at it. I feel much more confident that we can do this! Thanks again.
My dog begins to lunge/bark once we try to create more distance, how would you reccomend go about this? simply trying to tug the leash gets him amped up, but my voice has never been enough to encourage him to move. It's such a struggle ):
Even our yard is enough to get him to not listen to my voice ):
It can definitely be tough Melissa! If your dog can't break his focus to look at you in your own yard, I'd say start off practicing inside where distractions are really minimal. Get some super high-value treats, leash up your dog, and just practice indoors walking around the house as if you're outside (if the leash it too stimulating you can practice unleashed too).
Getting more frustrated with increased distance is usually the sign of a frustrated greeter! With these guys, the goal is to really work on teaching calmness in the vicinity of other dogs. You could also try doing some "find it" tosses where you throw a bunch of kibble on the ground for your dog to sniff around and find. A tight leash can escalate tension, so try to draw your dog away with treat tosses, toys (if he likes them), or even a series of hand targets. I'd also suggest checking out our other video on reactivity as you may find some other helpful tips in there. czcams.com/video/PjsRUUEnVbc/video.html
Good luck, I know how frustrating all this can be! I hope some of what I wrote helps.
Thank you so much for your tips! and I appreciate your support! It has been a frustrating journey the last few days and some words encouragement are so reassuring 🥺💓
We have trouble transferring our inside walking manners (which are so great) to outside! It's almost as if once we're outside he believes he's in the "free" command. We'll have to keep working on it! thank you again!!
Hang in there! The outside can be REALLY stimulating to certain dogs. My guy is the same - he is very distracted and engaged with the environment. It’s not his fault, it’s just tougher for some dogs. I’d say just keep practicing indoors, then graduate to a garage or driveway, then a familiar yard, etc. best of luck!
what if they immediately look back? does it mean your just to close?
That’s fine and normal, just keep asking them to disengage and reward. For fearful dogs, a lot of people will actually click and reward for when the dog looks at the trigger as well as when they look away to help give them more confidence around triggers. Remy is less fearful and more frustrated, so we just click for disengagement. But it’s totally reasonable for them to look again. You want it to look like a tennis match, with your dog disengaging to look at you, looking at the trigger, looking back at you, etc. What you want to is your dog just staring at the trigger without any disengagement, because that amps them up and shows the dog is too overaroused. That’s definitely when you know you need more distance!
@@K9ofMine okay! thank you so much!!
My foster sees the trigger and almost immediately starts barking uncontrollably. Kissy sounds, treats, and trying to turn the him around using the leash doesn’t work . Im trying to just get him from not barking uncontrollably while he looks at the trigger
Poor guy. If he can't break focus or take food at all, you probably need more distance. That's not always easy depending on your environment though. Medication might be something worth pursuing from your vet.
What happens if your dog refuses to look at you with people around? Does that mean there overstimulated +there too close?
Yes I would say the dog is prob too overstimulated and is over their threshold. More distance is needed! You can also try moving yourself physically closer to your dog, using your body to block their vision so they can refocus a bit easier.
I would say definitely practice this exercise inside first until they really get the hang of it. Then just in your front yard or doorstep, etc. Help them practice in lower stimulation environments before taking the skill out in the wild!
@@K9ofMine i’ve fixed it! i practiced look at me outside for awhile. he knows what it means now. thank you for the help!
I have a reactive miniature poodle dog. He is 3 years old and not neutered. He is very smart and adaptable. However, when guests come to the house, he barks a lot, or when someone leaves the room, he jumps on them, sticks to their clothes, and tries to stop them. He only does this when I am in the room. Besides, he does not act like this towards other people or dogs on the street. I have done a lot of reading and watched videos. What most of them suggest seems to be punishment-focused, correcting with a leash seemed a bit logical, but it didn't work for us, he became even more stressed. I try to attract his attention with a reward as soon as he does this behavior, but he doesn't focus on me. Normally, he always looks into my eyes. How can I solve this problem?😢
That does sound frustrating! I think it was smart to not continue with the punishment route, as it often does increase stress and if your pup is uncomfortable with guests there, adding more fear and stress will only exacerbate his discomfort.
It’s hard to say for sure what is going on - it could be that he is resource guarding you, but if they are leaving the room and he does this, resource guarding doesn’t really make sense.
It could be that he is struggling with general arousal and excitement, and it just struggling to remain calm. It sounds like the motion he is making could be humping, which is often related to stress/excitement. There are a few things you could try. First, you could consider giving him a frozen food item or puzzle when guests come over. This is what I do with my own dog who has stranger danger - I just hand him a frozen KONG or licking mat and it allows him to remain calm and split some of that focus and energy away from guests and onto the food item. Another option would be to crate him or gate him off in a different room when guests are over. This will stop him from practicing the undesired behavior as well as give him a safe space away from guests, in the event that he is uncomfortable being around guests. You could also combine those two options - crate/gate and frozen food item, which is what I would suggest!
Over time your dog will learn to associate guests with relaxing fun frozen food time, and you can build on those good experiences. Eventually I’d say you can give him breaks away from the gated room or crate to spend time with guests. I’d just start with a few minutes, keep it short and positive, and then have him return to his safe space.
I hope that helps! If this doesn’t work out for you, I’d suggest consulting with a certified LIMA dog trainer who doesn’t use aversives. They may be able to offer additional guidance. Best of luck!
@@K9ofMine Thank you so much for your answer🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. I will definitely apply your suggestions. I hope it works. I will definitely inform you about the result🌸.
Would this work for a frustrated greeter? My puppy isn't fearful, she just wants to play with every dog she sees and acts like a nut.
It can definitely work for frustrated greeters too! You'll want to work on just being calm in the presence of other dogs with them.
my dog begins to attack the leash when he's over the threshold
Hey Erickson - my dog used to do the exact same thing! He’d bite at the leash and then start biting and nipping at my sleeves. I was able to work on this by figuring out what preceded this behavior and interrupting it. For us, Remy would start going nuts on the leash right after he would get up from rolling around on grass. So, as soon as he would get up from rolling, I’d throw a handful of kibble on the ground to redirect him and stop the unwanted behavior before it happened. If you can predict when your dog goes over threshold, doing a treat toss is a good thing to try. So, if it happens whenever you see a trigger, try throwing a pile of kibble onto nearby grass or the ground as soon as he sees the trigger. Not only are you distracting your dog and interrupting the unwanted behavior, you’re also helping calm your dog down since sniffing and foraging for food is very self-soothing for dogs. I hope that helps! I know how stressful redirected aggression can be.
My dog can't even walk past a dog across the street without freaking out and needing me to shove treats in his face, maybe we'll try this in a couple months lol
It's rough, isn't it? Don't worry, with some work it'll get better!
I Wonder if this works for a dog who isn’t fearful, but excited? My dog goes absolutely bananas over every human. Overfriendly and it’s a problem!
It can work for excited pups too if you focus on rewarding them for calm behavior and looking away from the dog. Another option is that you can close distance as a reward. So, if your dog is going crazy, walk several yards further away from the other dog. When he calms down, you can walk towards the other dog as a reward (assuming this is a dog that the owner says OK to go say hello to and approach).
This works until another dog starts barking at the dog
Reactive dog training requires that you keep your dog below threshold - that means doing these exercises at a distance where your dog is not barking and lunging. If your dog is barking at the other dog, you've already messed up! You need to stay at a distance where your dog can remain under threshold and isn't overwhelmed.
@@K9ofMine this works very well if my dog is at a fair distance from other dogs it's easy to distract her but what do you do when my dog comes into close contact with another dog in passing, both of leashes and they get close enough to explore each others scent? My dog will react with aggression towards the other dog . I don't know how I can correct my dog from reacting aggressively?
@@geraldtaylor5880 Hey Gerald! Great question. With a reactive dog, you really should never let your dog get that close to another dog. You always want to keep your dog at a distance where they can stay under threshold, and sometimes that will require crossing the street, turning around, or changing your route to help your dog keep that distance he or she needs to feel safe.
If you are in a situation where you HAVE to walk close by another dog, I'd suggest using a management strategy like magnet hand (continuously feeding your dog treats out of your hand as you pass by the other dog) or a treat scatter (throwing treats into a grassy area nearby where your dog can sniff and eat the food as a distraction).
We don't recommend correcting your dog for reacting, as you never want to punish your dog for communicating their emotions. Reactive dogs are acting out of fear or stress - it's not a behavior they are performing intentionally. Instead, our goal should be to change the dog's underlying emotional reaction. This means changing the dog's negative association with other dogs to a positive one. So, rather than adding fear and stress by incorporating physical corrections or punishments, we can use food and alternative behaviors (sniffing, performing a practiced cue) to keep the dog's stress level low and change the association to a positive one.
This vlog is all very well but your dog really isnt triggered, he is just looking at a dog in the distance then paying attention to you when you call him. This is totally different to a dog that does trigger, crosses a threshold and then ignores you when you try to get him or her to disengage. What you are teaching is great but its much more difficult with a very reactive dog than we are seeing here in my opinion.
No, that’s not how counter conditioning works. A trigger is any stimuli that over arouses your dog or potentially causes him to go nuts. Dogs are a trigger for Remy. He is only not going over threshold and reacting because I am managing him carefully and purposely working at a distance where I know he can control himself.
If your dog crosses his threshold and can’t respond to your focus cues, you are too close. The goal is to always practice disengaging at a distance where your dog is under threshold and has the ability to disengage. When a dog is so close that they can’t listen to you, they are not in a learning state and you’ve already lost. You never want a dog to practice reactive behavior, so you should always be working at a distance where the dog notices the trigger, but is still under threshold enough that he is physically able to disengage. Hope that helps!
I had an extremely dog reactive dog, and a large one at that, this is how I got my dog to be calmer too . Of corse if a dog is over threshold it’s not going to listen, that’s the whole problem with going over threshold. And the reason her dog is calm and is looking at a distance is because she’s setting them up to do so.
@@K9ofMine Ok thanks, I appreciate the reply. I am working on exactly that. It can be very difficult in the UK though where space is at a premium and lots of houses are packed into very tight spaces with small roads, tall walls and lots of sharp bends. Just getting out of our road can be a challenge without turning a corner and finding we are too close to another dog at times. I will keep at it though. Thanks for the help.