Thanks! I am looking to remove my compensator on my 65. Doesn't want to break loose. It's the 4 hole version. I bought a tool but it's not a good one. The pins have been ground to make it fit right so it doesn't like to stay in the holes. Any suggestions? I think today I will try an air impact wrench instead of the breaker bar (24 inch). The biggest problem I see is that the compensator compresses the spring while trying to loosen it.
when you tighten the nut on the motor sprocket, you say 82-??? is that in lbs ft ? and do you know how much it is in Nm, and is it the same on a 75' FLH Shovelhead?
Hello, just watched your video. I'm going through the same operation. Question when I mount the retainer and cover assembly, basically that's what the nut goes through to lock down the compensating sprocket. I can move the cover assembly with my hand when torqued to specification. Is this normal?
There should be a shim or washer that will take up the slack. The spring in the cup should have a little pressure on it once its torqued down. Sometimes Ive had to add shims to get it to make contact. Or the spring in the cup is worn out.
I have a question, when I go to bolt on the inner primary cover the shaft starts to bind up, I loosen up the tranny, put the cover on, put the washers and nuts on the tranny bolts, tighten everything evenly, occasionally turning the shaft by hand as I'm tightening, then once I get any decent torque on it the shaft becomes real hard to turn, the cover bearing isn't new but it's in good shape, I just don't get it, there's no reason for it to bind
What kind of sprocket nut are you using? The thin stock nut works but I’ve found that some of the “super nuts” with the seal are too thick and hit the bearing. Also try loosening the motor mounts, the engine might not be square.
@@ChucksCycles It is the one with the seals, that's what was in their. I diidn't want to have to loosen the motor, I want to be able to get everything to line back up right, I didn't even want to have to loosen the transmission but I figured that it would pull itself into place but it's still binding, I haven't thrown anything yet though
Pretty much, except you won’t have a chain tensioner, you will tension the chain by moving the transmission back. I had a 57 and I used all the same parts. There are different compensator styles but pretty much it’s the same.
It would have had one originally but they make solid sprockets for the engine, some guys like them for performance applications. Either way is fine. I like compensators though.
Good tutorial. Clean work.
Excellent…well done and informative!
simplicity spoken for us undaegaktered wrenches... thanks ~
thanks for sharing, very informative
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a great teaching video now i can with confidence put my 78 back together God Bless man.
Awesome, it makes me happy to know it helped!
Primary chain adjuster on backwards " Fat to the BACK!"
Thanks! I am looking to remove my compensator on my 65. Doesn't want to break loose. It's the 4 hole version. I bought a tool but it's not a good one. The pins have been ground to make it fit right so it doesn't like to stay in the holes. Any suggestions? I think today I will try an air impact wrench instead of the breaker bar (24 inch). The biggest problem I see is that the compensator compresses the spring while trying to loosen it.
Before the housing of the inner primary is there an oring on the motor before placing the housing on?
when you tighten the nut on the motor sprocket, you say 82-??? is that in lbs ft ? and do you know how much it is in Nm, and is it the same on a 75' FLH Shovelhead?
Hello, just watched your video. I'm going through the same operation. Question when I mount the retainer and cover assembly, basically that's what the nut goes through to lock down the compensating sprocket. I can move the cover assembly with my hand when torqued to specification. Is this normal?
There should be a shim or washer that will take up the slack. The spring in the cup should have a little pressure on it once its torqued down. Sometimes Ive had to add shims to get it to make contact. Or the spring in the cup is worn out.
I have a question, when I go to bolt on the inner primary cover the shaft starts to bind up, I loosen up the tranny, put the cover on, put the washers and nuts on the tranny bolts, tighten everything evenly, occasionally turning the shaft by hand as I'm tightening, then once I get any decent torque on it the shaft becomes real hard to turn, the cover bearing isn't new but it's in good shape, I just don't get it, there's no reason for it to bind
What kind of sprocket nut are you using? The thin stock nut works but I’ve found that some of the “super nuts” with the seal are too thick and hit the bearing.
Also try loosening the motor mounts, the engine might not be square.
@@ChucksCycles
It is the one with the seals, that's what was in their. I diidn't want to have to loosen the motor, I want to be able to get everything to line back up right, I didn't even want to have to loosen the transmission but I figured that it would pull itself into place but it's still binding, I haven't thrown anything yet though
Is this the same for a 55 panhead?
Pretty much, except you won’t have a chain tensioner, you will tension the chain by moving the transmission back. I had a 57 and I used all the same parts. There are different compensator styles but pretty much it’s the same.
My Shovel doesn't have that compensator, it a '79 1340, should I have that
It would have had one originally but they make solid sprockets for the engine, some guys like them for performance applications. Either way is fine. I like compensators though.
@@charleslawrence6553
Thank you for that