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The Dyno Results are in.... | Bad Wolf Turbo
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
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Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.
Hi Cole, back in the 1970s my job was building and test rigging naturally aspirated 1275 Cooper s engines. 110 bhp was considered a really excellent result at the flywheel. (These were pre Turbo or Supercharger days). I’ve got to applaud you for the output you have achieved at the wheels which I believe is absolutely superb! (In my opinion it goes to show how poor the original intake design is, having such a low BMEP as standard, and what a wonderful increase that can be achieved just by forcing more mixture in. (By the way, my grandson Cole is 13 now and very well, I hope you are too buddy!) 🙏🇬🇧😊
Cole thats insane numbers man ! Super capable engines if you know how to do it right , and everyone loves to compleain and comment on how long your build is taking but.. once you get it right, Bingo !! keep up the good work man !
Thanks again for helping me with that HEL oil line Cole! I’ll be ordering the rest of the HEL goodies soon enough.
Like wow! My old 850 would roll over and die. Hope you have years of good times ahead.
Fantastic numbers Cole! Well done.
Great numbers! I was thinking about the torque steer increase just as you addressed it in the video. Awesome info as always. Thanks!
Thank you!
That thing must be a rocket on the road! Awesome work
It is an absolute rocket ship for sure. So fun
amazing numbers! Well done!
Cole sooooo happy for you car is looking great well done
Only here for your handsome face! 😝 Really excellent numbers, so happy for you finally reaching that point of dream engine built and running beautifully!
Damn great job and congrats on the turbo achievement
Thanks I really appreciate it!
@@classicminidiy Please
That's impressive 👏
That's some crazy figures. 👏👏. Loving the channel
Thank you!
I remember my bedside book, A series engines by David Vizard. Definitely on a budget in those days, so definitely not those power gains from modifying SU carbs an RC 40 exhaust system....
Hi David, that was also my”bible” back in the 1970s as a young engine builder! (Happy days..) keep well 🙏🇬🇧
@@philtucker1224 Even now I have most of the tools, to do almost anything on a mini. Remember looking at the Haynes manual, and when it stated that you might experience difficulties in removing some nuts on the mini they were not kidding, especially the gear box ones. I think the only tool that I had missing was the reamer tool for the rear subframe. Yes a lot of good memories...
Really impressive power boost. I never knew that a ECU could run a mechanical carb.
Thanks! Yeah the ECU doesnt run the carb, it just replaces the dizzy and runs ignition. So the carb is still fully mechanical and doing its job, while the ECU handles when the spark plugs are firing based on engine position and manifold pressure.
Great numbers! I just need to crack on with my mini.. It's taken way to long after that I moved to get started again.
A nice explanation I heard. Horse power is how fast you hit a wall, torque is how far you take it with you.
The un-equal lenght of the drive shafts makes the torque steer worse.
The unequal lengths don't make for torque steer, its the design of the diff that makes it (I can elaborate). To minimise TS, set up the preload on the side plates as per manual, 18lb ft, but then overtighten the bolts (evenly, with a torque wrench) to 25 lb ft. That reduces TS, not eliminate it. I don't know what torque will pull out the threads, so be careful.
I commend you for your efforts with the ancient A series engine. Remarkable, could this be done with a fuel injected A series engine?
My first car in 1973 a green with a white roof 997 Mini Cooper 1963 cost £130.00 😂
Im liking that little rev counter. Is it Smiths...and is it the same size as your water gauge :-) Might have to invest in one of those. Nice job by the way.
It’s really nice and easy to wire too. It’s got a simple clip in wiring harness so it can be easily removed if you need to later on.
@@classicminidiy Thanks Cole :-)
Great project with amazing numbers! Love that color too. Would you share the color code? I´ve been looking for that code but there's a lot of tones and it´s difficult to get. Thank you love your videos. Great job.
Hi! Thanks so much. The color is pretty close to the MG version of tahiti blue (Code: BLVC 65) but the painter mis-mixed it so its not spot on. If you want the color def have the shop paint up a sample card for you first.
@@classicminidiy Thank you so much. As always you are very friendly and ready to help. I'm sure that you make a big difference in Mini community. 👍
Holy lord.
Is that a 998 or 1275?
Original power at 67hp sounds impressive for a 998 A series.
It was a 1275cc NA build before the turbo.
The Smith dual gauge is a junk, not only it's hard to route the sensor, also if the sensor broken, there's no service part to replace, been said I have trashes few of these in the past few years, they don't seem to hold very long
Totally agree honestly but they don’t make an electric combined gauge, and I didn’t really want to drill another hole in the dash right now. I ran one when I first restored the car and it lasted about 4-5ish years before pooping the bed.
What’s is the name the shop you send it at Charlotte
Baucom Motorsports. The owner, John is a really great guy
😎👍
As the video starts I’m guessing 120bhp.
Wow!!! I was well off. That is some pretty amazing power and torque figures Cole. Well done sir.
I wish you would have shown the curve.
I regret not having them print it out. I do show it in the updated dyno video after going EFI.
172
Hey Cole, nice video. However there is absolutely no way this engine has 166whp, nor 170 ft/lbs. 120 ft/lbs is enough to break the gearbox after some use. 166whp roughly translates to 190-200 bhp, which is absolutely not what 15psi will give you. 150 at the crank would sound sane.
It’s perfectly possible.
Maybe have a watch of this. The lowest power turbo A-series in this video made 120bhp.
czcams.com/video/MV0E4nEUvTk/video.html
My engine has 155hp at the crank on 9psi so this sounds possible.
@@TurboMinicom Sure, but the highest ones seem to have 16v heads. 120bhp is conservative, I'm even ready to believe a 150hp crank A series 5 ports, but to get 166whp as low as 5500rpm with a 5 port you'd need much more than what we see in Cole's video, don't you agree ?
Its absolutely possible with a properly built engine.
It's widely known that a Dynojet dyno will produce unrealistic numbers, typically around 18% higher than a real (braked) dyno like a Dyno Dynamics machine.
The guy who designed it is on record stating this! See page 6 here: www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/dynojet.pdf