Pole Barn Steel Ceiling Liner Install Tips & Ideas
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2018
- Steel Ceiling Liner is cheap and looks good and is available in different colors. When installing your steel ceiling liner, plan on what way you are going to enter your Post Frame Garage, Pole barn, shop, etc.. Make sure to start at the farthest point from that entry point and start from the farthest point to overlap the panels. You do this so you don't see the seam overlaps when you enter the building. I also went with 1 1/4" wafer head screws painted the same color as ceiling to give it a "Flat" appearance as pole barn screws stick up 1/4" .
The steel ceiling liner cost about $ .50 per square ft after rebates or around $.60 per sq ft without rebates. It can span 7-8 ft and still hold the insulation so it doesn't bow in the middle. My trusses are set 6 ft apart and they are flat as possible.
I didn't use a vapor barrier on ceiling as I wanted the condensation to escape my finished area , as my way of thinking is to get moisture out of the finished area. Think of a plastic bag with condensation inside. It will basically be like that and every time you add more liquid ( Car has rain on it , washing car inside, snow,etc) then that liquid will stay inside your building and ruin other items due to humidity . This is a highly debatable topic, so that is how I did my ceiling. Hopefully this helps or gives you an idea how to run yours!
A man with a lot of pride in his work. Awesome job. 😎
Thanks, I learned to do it right the first time or else you will have to redo the job.
looks good, great video. will be doing my barn this summer
Thanks, If you are able to do more stuff yourself, you will save a lot of money to buy toys to fill it!
I'll be doing my ceiling later this winter, and am looking at videos to see how others are doing it. I was thinking of blowing in the insulation, but we did our house just like you are doing this. Worth looking into as this would be a lot easier than trying to get up there after the tin is installed and have to move around up there with trusses 8' on center! I am self-building a 36' x 48' post frame that will be used as a woodshop, and trying to do nearly everything myself.
Doing it the way in the video is easy as you have the tin holding insulation up. Only tricky part is the last piece of tin, but you can use straps, wire, etc to hold last of insulation up until you fit the last panel in place. Doing it yourself saves you money and builds equity , so that is the smart way if you can. Thanks for watching
I know what you are dealing with...doing my own at the moment myself. My building is a 40x60 with 13' ceilings and a 16x60 attached shed enclosed on three sides to park my enclosed gooseneck car trailer/truck. I actually framed a 20x40 apartment in the back of the shop over the Labor Day weekend myself and have it nearly finished inside. I used metal for the ceiling just as you have inside the apartment and it turned out great. I liked it so well I decided to add some more down low on the walls as wainscott below wood paneling.
When I begin the shop area ceiling I plan on installing two horizontal runs of the metal from the ceiling down which will meet the 8' wood paneling coming up from the floor. I'm using recessed LED lighting throughout the building and my thoughts were the extra metal on the wall will help disperse/reflect the ceiling lights better...time will tell I guess. I was adamant about not using those eyesore strip lights.
Like yourself, I opted to not use any vapor barrier. I have installed a split-mini heat and air system with two heads...one for the apartment and the other is on the back wall of the shop area. Thinking that will go a long way to negate moisture problems...we will see. The only difference I can see between our buildings is I had the panels insulated when it was erected...thus far it seems like a good choice. Best of luck with your project...I'm learning as I go myself. :)
In my shop side , I plan on putting a mini-split and then having a regular Furnace/Ac for my Garage/ Man cave area . Right now I can tell that the sound resonates off the ceiling the more I put up! Hopefully the Drywall will absorb that noise. I found some led 4 ft lights that have a diffuser shade so it isn't that blinding bright LED light. Do a video of your shop and what it looks like and put a link into response. Thanks
I build these types of buildings, and I believe your analysis is spot on. People need to remember, steel sheets are impermeable, which is to say; you already have a vapor barrier on the outside (outside and also the inside in your case) of the framing. Home builders in my area use "house wrap" which is supposed to block outside moisture but allow inside moisture to breathe out. House wrap inside metal siding (siding which doesn't breathe) is kinda silly but appropriate for many other building finishes. So the key is removing condensation, and your floor heat (as opposed to forced air) greatly reduces the amount of condensation.
Most of my customers have me install a vapor barrier/insulation product (aka Metal Building Insulation - MBI) between the roof sheets and the purlins. That traps the roof condensation above the framing and vents up via the ribs in the sheets. It also avoids lots of condensation by creating a small buffer between the outside cold and warmer inside. These buildings don't have or need the eave or ridge venting you have, primarily because the ceiling is left open/vaulted. If they later install a drop ceiling, they then need attic ventilation similar to yours (even though they have even less condensation than you). The few customers without MBI have condensation problems that resolve in about a year after most of the moisture in their floor (concrete or otherwise) evaporates. This also explains why the cheap little storage sheds don't weep enough to matter - they would have lots more moisture problems if people lived (breathed a lot, showered, etc.) in them. This applies to vaulted ceilings - I have to stress to anyone with a drop ceiling - they need attic ventilation.
By-the-way, I have seen conditions in uninsulated buildings when the roof weeps so bad it practically rains. It resolves rather quickly. You would have to be in your attic at the time to ever know it happened - except over time, watch for telltale signs on the sides of the purlins. Open sheds and lean-tos will have their purlins turn practically black - without exception. If your purlins stay new looking - then you have no condensation or leaks. A small amount of this that dries out between events, probably causes no harm - although I am sure home inspectors, building officials, and many smarty pants engineers would argue with me about that.
Great information! When my building was a shell, I used lawn sprinklers inside to water compact the sand base, and it rained slightly from the inside roof . That was due to the evaporation , just like you said about the concrete. So far my insulated building hasn't rained even when the inside humidity was 70% according to my dehumidifier. You could feel how thick the air was inside and I was surprised it didn't rain inside. One of those days where you glasses or window pane instantly fogs up! Thanks for the information and watching the video.
@@JasonCZcams How to calculate dew point temperature which does not have a direct correlation with relative humidity is certainly above my pay grade. The combination of floor heat which doesn't inject the room with additional moisture like propane, nor the rapid changes in temperature from a forced air system, combined with all that insulation; leaves you with few risks of condensation.
I finished a concrete slab once with propane heat and Kraft faced bats stapled to the purlins. The bats would hold the water against the metal until it became heavy enough to drop in tablespoon size drips. I thought I was about to lose the surface until the heater finally brought the temperature up above the dew point. Now that I think about it; maybe the nighttime temperature dropped enough to start freezing the water to the roof metal. (not a drop ceiling like yours or the usual water tight seal I am used to with MBI.)
Looks good man
your video is awesome...I'm currently installing the same stuff. The metal steel is your vapor barrier... no need to install poly plastic barrier.
Thanks , if you do poly then the water will condense between the plastic sheet and ceiling metal which will cause mold and other problems. No poly on any finished ceiling , but others will have their thoughts on it. You save a ton doing it yourself , so spend that money on other toys!
Poly over the steel is a bad idea as any water that does collect gets trapped. Just tape the joints with waterproof tape. Clear tape is probably invisible enough for the bottom side otherwise it has to be done from above.
Where did you get the big sheets? Looks nice.
Nice job Jason! I did the same with my ceiling. Just wanted to pick your brain on walls. I have no wrap or anything just steel against horizontal girts. I see some guys do 1.5" foam board in between girts then frame wall with either roxul or craft faced batts. My builder recommended just putting craft faced batts in and it would be ok to leave a 1-2" air space or to put foam board vertically and leave the 1.5" gap between that and steel. Just wanted thoughts so don't get condensation. No idea if I will heat or cool other than propane heater in winter if out there. I am in western PA. Thanks!
You can do kraft faced batts but then harder to staple in as most are 16" wide. I used unfaced batts and just use nails placed in girts up walls to hold them in wall. Then i used poly for vapor barrier just like the paper on kraft batts are the vapor barrier. I didn't use any housewrap under steel and I have no problems. Thanks for watching
just had a 30x32 pole barn built. they blew in r49 insulation in the ceiling. r21 in the walls and r10 floor. i installed 1200 foot of pex in the slab and buried insulated pex to the house. going to hook up a coal stoker boiler in the basement and heat both buildings.
Heated floors are the way to go. Nice pleasant heat
Good channel, quality content.
Love it.
I like it I have a 24×60 building and hope my turns out as well as yours. What do you look up to find the metal to use is it steel panels, i am wanting to cover walls with this also.
This is called Dura Panel , if your in the Midwest states . Otherwise it is the regular pole barn steel but go with a thinner gauge , the ceiling liner is 30 gauge. It doesn't have to be coated or heavier gauge then outside steel, since it doesn't have to deal with weather , acid rain, wind, etc . My best advice is to take your time and do it the way you want it and do it right the first time. May take a little more time, but if you have to redo something, you will spend more time trying to fix it, then if you did it right the first time! Good luck with your build and Thanks for watching
Nice Video! I have a pole barn with 18 foot ceilings and have been wondering how I'm going to put the tin on the ceiling. Probably go with a scissor lift. Like how you did your insulation. Way cleaner than blown in.
Thanks , the way I did it, you can take your time and won't have to worry about blower rental . Do it at your pace, according to your time and money flow.
nice job, how difficult will it be if you decide you want to run air or electricity above the ceiling. Are you able to drop one or two ceiling panels to get access to the area above the metal ceiling?
It wouldn't be feasible to take panels down as you have insulation up there but you could just go up in attic access and run it like a home. I will be making a video on how to frame an attic access for metal ceilings shortly as I am almost finished with my ceiling. I ran electricity underground and want to keep the ceiling "airtight" so no holes except my attic access. My lights will be surface mounted and the air will be surface mounted also. Thanks for watching
Make a video on your in floor heat system please. Is that a water heater on demand system?
Hi
If you look at the other videos I show how I laid my tubing for the Thermal Mass radiant System. I show my boiler/zone setup under a video also. It is actually a branded takagi heater designed for Hot water or radiant , and fairly impressed with the ability to heat all that water for the heat ( have 4700 ft of 1/2" tubing)
When the barn is heated, any warm (moist) air that does get through will condense in the rockwool. That stuff sheds water so condensation will settle down on the steel.
Sheet joints are not normally sealed, so use mastic when installing or waterproof adhesive tape over the topside of the joints. No moist air gets through no condensation.
That is just stupid.
Jason, What R value insulation did you use in the walls and ceiling and did you get it at menards
R-49 batts in ceiling and R-24 rolls in walls. I got the R-24 at Menards during crazy day deals so basically it was on sale for $12.99 a roll minus a rebate of $10 per roll. So I bought all the rolls and got a rebate check back , so each roll cost me $2.99 . I then used the rebates to buy my ceiling panels when it was a 11% sale. They run the insulation on sale a few times a year during crazy day deals. I'm not getting a true R 24 value as the rolls are 8.5" thick but my walls use a 6x6 and on front is a 2x4 flat, so rolls are compressed to about 7" T so like a R-20-21? maybe. Who cares , it was cheaper then any other insulation!
I have a 36x48 with 12' ceilings going up. My builder priced an additional 4100.00 for ceiling install and insulation, so I'm curious if I would save any money.
Nice building, good luck!
That is a good price if it is R49 in ceiling and metal ceiling. Sounds too good, maybe that is just the metal ceiling liner? I would double check , but if that is for both, do it !
Love your videos. I just put vapor barrier, 2" rigid foam (taped the seams) pex tubing and concrete in my shed floor. Until I saw your video, I was sure I was going to put a vapor barrier on the walls as well as the ceiling. I also live in Minnesota and that is what is done in every home (at least that I have seen) around my area. In a cold climate such as MN., I have always been told to vapor barrier the warm side when heating, which would be between the ceiling and the insulation. One question I have is: If you didn't vapor barrier your ceiling, why do your walls? Isn't it the same concept? You actually have no air flow restrictions outside of your walls but you do have some in the attic. I'm not trying to stir things up, but instead wanting to do the correct method to prevent failure later. Thanks
Thanks for the input. Basically a home vs pole barn you need different build because a home usually is a heated and cooled conditioned space. In a home, you get rid of moisture with ac / furnace. Do this experiment, take a sealed plastic bag and put some water in it. Leave it outside and it will have moisture in sun and condense at night on inside . The moisture never leaves and that would be what a pole barn is if vapor barrier on every wall/ ceiling. The steel ceiling liner acts as a slight vapor barrier but still allows some to escape out. Don't have to worry about moisture as its steel, where walls are sheetrock and the point cold meets warm air , would probably be the back of sheetrock.
But when its really humid, I do.run a little 40 pint dehumidifier and keep.it at around 45 humidity. That little one does the whole 3200 sq ft , even those tropical days we had a few years ago where it was like 102 degrees and tropical weather. But I have never had it rain or garage door windows condensate, just run it for peace of mind
Thanks Jason, I guess what I am more concerned about is in the winter when heating the shed and that moist warm air from the heated space getting up in the below zero attic and freezing and/or condensating and getting the insulation all wet.
@@D-Allen That isn't a problem , think of all the older homes pre 1930's that vapor barriers were not in play. Or look at all the little metal storage sheds , you have hot steel and it condensates at night, all those sheds don't rain every morning. I believe the building suppliers , etc.. give this fear and information to sell more product . Like how its healthy to drink alcohol but then 2 years later in another study it isn't!! You would have to have pretty humid air inside pole barn ( Pool, raising fish, etc) to have it rain in a conditioned space. Unconditioned is different
Hey Jason, a couple years have gone by and I am wondering if your having any roof condensation dripping onto your fiberglass above your ceiling metal? My buddy just has a metal roof with a dirt floor and the roof sweats and drips from the entire metal surface, the sand looks like it has been raining in there. He's not happy. I'm building a barn currently and just want to do it right. Your barn looks great, so much work doing it yourself but the satisfaction and money savings is so worth it!
Mine did the same thing , thought the roof had leaks! Problem is the sand or concrete heats up and the roof is the only barrier that has a sudden heat change, so it drips. Once you do the ceiling and then add insulation it insulates that air so there isn't a hard temperature break. I check my attic 2x a year , usually after a heavy rainfall to make sure no leaks. I have never seen dripping water( condensation) from roof in attic . I could see if you didn't insulate and don't have good attic ventilation the hot air will go straight up and probably will rain. Compare it to small steel backyard storage sheds , those are sold everywhere and if the stuff continually got wet inside from condensation , they wouldn't be sold anymore. Those have adequate ventilation as the cheap ones let every bug/mice inside. So the key is proper attic ventilation and insulation. DON"T use poly on ceiling as you will get basically a plastic bag that continually has condensation in it. Need to let that moisture inside get out
Thank you Jason for your reply.
Jason, I know this video is 4 years old and most of comments are too. But I have a 32’x32’ monitor style roof barn. Concrete floors and am going to have 8’ dropped ceilings soon. I get drips/ moisture from frosty mornings, when sun warms roof. Barn is completely open currently installing vented soffits and have ridge vent. Might put in gable vent/ fan if necessary. Will doing the insulated ceiling and duraliner like you did help with the frost drip? I’m in northern Tenn.
thanks,
When mine was completely open , it would drip inside . Once you complete inside and make it a conditioned space, then it will be like a house attic. Any moisture will evaporate in attic , just like homes. Right now , you have moisture inside building and it cannot get out so it sticks to the cooler metal roof/siding and condenses. So it's normal in the first stage of building process
Thanks for the info. and help.
Will be loading up on supplies at Menards. @@JasonCZcams
I want to use steel for the ceiling in my building but I'm also putting up partition walls. Is that possible with metal panels?
Ya you can, I have a video on how I did my middle partition wall
Hey Jason. Good video. I'm doing a simular build for my garage. I'm also thinking about not putting a vapor barrier on the ceiling. Just unfaced insulation, and then the metal. MY attic space is also ventilated. Just wondering if you have had any moisture issues in the attic space? I will be heating the space and also AC. Thanks.
No issues at all , used to check attic every year but now just crawl up there every 2 years and see if any leaks . Probably will just stop doing that altogether. Thanks for watching
Where vapor barriers are placed depends on code in your area of the country.
Hi Jason, can you share background on the steel material you purchased for your ceiling. I have 2000 square feet I’m looking to do inside my horse barn but I’m not sure where to purchase the material. Any help you can offer would be most appreciated. Thank you
Hi,
It is called Dura Panel . I purchased it at Menards, but believe most big box stores sell something equivalent. You could use the regular siding or roof steel , but it will weigh more so make sure your trusses are rated for it. Dura Panel will span 6 ft easily and can do 7ft, but any spacing larger will bow from insulation on top
Thanks Jason!!
Hi Jason, nice work you’re doing. I have a question. What is the span between trusses that you have and are you fastening to trusses only or do you have other purlins in between? I have close to an 7’- 7’5” distance between trusses and I’m trying to decide whether I need to put more support in between or not. Your thoughts?
Hi,
My span is 6 ft on center and fastening to the trusses every 6 ft.. I believe the manufacturer states 7 or 8 ft max to prevent insulation from bowing panels , but I am using batts so they may weigh more then blow-in. I have had no problems and is straight as possible. I would call up a steel supplier of the panels and see what they say , and you can always pay a little more and use the steel siding as that is thicker. Hope this helps
@Scott Garber The steel can be order in any length up to 60 ft maybe ? The steel can only go as long as a semi trailer for delivery. But you would never be able to put up a piece that big or would need special equipment and enough crew to handle it.
Mind if i ask where you got your tin sheeting you used on the ceiling/walls?
I got them at menards , thinner gauge then the regular pro rib siding
My barn has trusses that are 8 feet on center. Do you think this method would work for a ceiling or do you think I should find a way to add supports in the middle?
depending on the steel thickness , 7-8 ft is max . You would have to see what steel you are using and ask manufacturer. If you plan on insulation , then I wouldn't recommend 8 ft. All you need is a roof leak to add another 40 lbs to the wet insulation and that would cost more time & money if you just blocked it ( Put supports in between.) You could put 2 x 4 at every 3 ft to between trusses and you would be fine. Make sure trusses are rated for correct load
@@JasonCZcams I think I am going to add extra support. The individuals at menards tried to tell me I have to do every 2 feet. That feels over kill. I have already contacted the truss manufacturer and they let me know I can do a metal roof.
@@Thetdgross89 I used Menards steel and I have my Trusses at 6 ft on center. I used heavy R-49 batts also, so blown in insulation will be lighter. I have zero sag , just make sure to use enough screws per panel and you should be fine. I would run at every 3 ft ( might be 33-34-35" depending on steel and where flat part lands or if you want to screw into rib) perpendicular to trusses . That way you would have the steel sheet edge perimeter screwed securely . 3 x 8 boxes basically
Thomas Gross run 2x6 purlins between the rafters at 4’ OC. Then orient your steel to run parallel with the rafters.
Are your trusses 8’? Did you use 2 by’s to support perpendicular to trusses or can the Dura Panel span the width without sagging?
My trusses are at 6ft spacing as I knew I was going to use steel ceiling liner. If they were at 8' , you would need blocking between to support ceiling liner . It would sag with insulation on top at anything over 7ft. Manufacturer may have changed spacing but I wouldn't risk any span over 6ft with weight of insulation. Non-insulated then would probably span 7ft easily.
How many panels did you need? I am building a 40 x 80 next week and I am thinking about (84-16ft panels) to do the ceiling...
It all depends how far your trusses are spaced. Mine were 6ft spaced so I decided to go with 18 ft 3 in and then leftover panel length. Make sure to add in the panel overlap when ordering panels. I did 3 inch I believe. Hope that helps
Hey Jason, You do really nice and neat work. I think your doing a great job. I see there's nothing under your roof metal panels. All I hear is its going to "rain" in your building. Do you think the condensate that drips from your roof panels with saturate the batts you've layed on your ceiling metal?
I have a 2 ft overhang in back and 4 ft overhang in front to provide more then adequate airflow to move the " moist" air out of attic. I know multiple people with insulated pole barns that have no problems with raining. My building did rain in the beginning, but that was because I was using multiple sprinklers to compact my sand bed and it would evaporate and condense and couldn't get all that moisture out. You gotta think that spray foam became big in the past what 10 years? so how many steel buildings or steel roofed homes that are insulated BEFORE spray foam are around? How many of those are raining inside and getting ruined? Just look at all the metal storage sheds , carports, etc.. and they don't rain on the inside. That is due to having an open design which has proper airflow to move all that air out. I think its a way to get people to spend more money or trying to band-aid a design flaw in building. If a building is designed properly , it should be able to breathe to remove all that moist stale air and get fresh air in.
I just checked ( 7 months later) fiberglass batts have no wetness and I can see no "Raining" in attic. We had a very humid and rainy season ( Got up to 115 feel like temp with all humidity)
How is moisture going to get through a metal ceiling?
Nice job on the ceiling! Cellulose blow in is much easier, cheaper and quicker. I fell no need for a ceiling moisture barrier when using steel. What kind of tubing did you use for the floor heat?
Thanks, I used PE-RT for floor tubing
Do NOT use cellulose insulation on a steel building especially with no vapor barrier. Cellulose will absorb the water, mold and begin to rust the steel.
@@disenfranchisedcitizen1432 There should not be condensation in a ventilated attic.
Where can you get this? I have a 60×100 building Im trying to do the ceiling with
The panel is called Dura-Panel and can be bought at Menards. Or you can google interior steel panels and see if there is a store nearby that sells it.
Did you use the dura liner or the pro rib?
Dura- Panel
How does the moisture get through the metal?
The moisture will wick through the metal and out , kinda like how penetration oil wicks.
Is the steel special for ceilings or just standard siding? Whats the comparison to using drywall or osb?
This is a slightly thinner gauge for less weight , but you could use standard steel siding. The ceiling doesn't need to withstand wind, rain,hail so can be lighter gauge. Weighs less then other materials so you can have truss spacing at 6ft instead of 2 ft for osb or drywall.
@@JasonCZcams my trusses are 4’ oc so having no experience I was worried about the strength of the steel and the weight of the insulation at that span. If I do drywall or osb, I would need strapping 24” oc I assume. Maybe cheaper but more labor. The steel seems like a one and done solution. Plus it’s already painted!
Thanks for the reply
@Bob's Barn Workshop Blocking to get to 24 oc is a chore at that height without a genie lift since be moving ladder/ scaffold many times. Probably cheaper with steel as the 2x4 blocking and osb costs add up . Just search steel ceiling liner or dura liner and see the cost. Menards usually is cheapest
@@JasonCZcams thanks! My contractor is going to see if he can source it for me. They’re building the shell, I’m doing the siding, interior and utilities
Are your trusses on 4 or 5' centers? Any sag with the steel ceiling with the insulation?
Thanks!
They are 6 ft on center with zero sag. Thanks
@@JasonCZcams Do you think these will work with 8 ft on center trusses?
@@themailman83 I personally wouldn't try if you have insulation on top. If no insulation then maybe. You might be fine going with the regular thicker gauge building steel , but I would try a piece before committing to buy everything for ceiling
@@themailman83 I have 8 ft centers also and I'm facing the same question. I've thought about adding purlins to my ceiling or just screw in the sheets to the trusses. What did you decide to do?
@@shane269 Haven't done it yet myself. Still debating, but I will probably just go with it and go easy on the insulation
Awesome shop Jason! Is the attic useable space?
Thanks. No it isn't because my city has height codes so I had to fight to get 12 ft sidewalls! That's what happens when the city gets bigger and instead of 5 acre lots, they build on 1/4 acre lots and try to make the rules for the smaller lot sizes. I would of did attic space if I could, as it is basically only a little more in cost per truss.
@@JasonCZcams What city? I'm in Elk River.
@@skynet000001 Anoka
Just a question????
If you are going to sheetrock the walls
Why?????
Didn't you just sheetrock the ceiling too....????
I'm going to insulate & panel up my 60x40 pole barn soon....
I'm just trying to get different
Ideas.....on how to get it done right the first time...
Thank You
In advance for a return message......
The steel ceiling panels can span 6-7 ft , so your trusses can be that far apart. For Sheetrock, you have to have trusses every 2 ft. The difference in cost from spacing 2 ft trusses to 6 ft trusses was almost $20,000 !! Crazy difference. Sheetrock will bow and sag , so need that 2 ft spacing. You could put like wood and block it like I did my walls, but then you need special rated trusses to hold that sheetrock weight, so you would just do it right and space it 2 ft for sheetrock, or 6 ft for ceiling steel. Thanks for watching
@@JasonCZcams
Thank You
For the information
It makes total sense......
I wasn't thinking of the EXTRA weight of the sheetrock.....
@@anthonyguglielmo3708 no problem, better to ask questions and get as much information before doing it
Have you had any condensation issues or moisture issues?
Nope no issues. Might be different in a tropical, high humidity area maybe or covering a pool or hot tub with no ventilation. You need alot of moisture in building for it to start sweating inside. Thanks for watching
How big are the panels? Thanks
I used 18 ft panels since my pole spacing is 6 ft . These panels can space up to 6 ft 6" safely with insulation on top of panels. The builder would of used 6 ft panels and if I wanted longer panels , would of been extra since they said would need 2 crews. I did this myself with longer panels , lol.
Are the rafters 8ft apart? Thanks
No, these are 6ft apart. The steel may do 7ft but that's max. Would need to use the heavier roof steel to prevent bowing
Is that metal for soffits?
This is steel ceiling liner and goes by different brands. I used dura panel , basically same steel as roof and sides , just thinner gauge . Thanks for watching
Is your building 8’ centers? If so what gauge steel is your ceiling liner? Does it span the 8’ ok??
Hi, It has 6 ft centers as the steel would do 7 ft with insulation on it. If your not using insulation, then 8' should be ok but then you couldn't insulate it in future without adding blocking
My builder just quoted me a price of $2.39/linear ft. for steel. Huh? How's that possible?
Tell me about this rebate you got for insulation.
Disregard, I read about it further down in the comments.
where did you buy the steel for the ceiling?
Menards had a sale and then It was a 11% rebate week. Only way to do it is to wait and double up on savings. My wall insulation was only $2.99 a roll after rebates and I almost bought it for regular price of $13.99 a roll! Procrastination works sometimes!
@@JasonCZcams how did you get insulation so cheap? Also what do you mean double up on savings?
@@pepeman3099 I waited until Menards had their Crazy day sale and the insulation was around $2.99 a roll after sale price and rebates ( Store credit rebates) So I went with the thicker R-value as after rebates it was cheaper then r-13. If your lucky , you can get a rebate and 11% off on items in addition to the sale prices. So if you plan on building, may be able to snag some great prices on stuff, just need to store it until your ready to use materials
Did you just screw the metal in at the four foot truss locations or did you need to add something in between them? Please and thank you.
Just screwed to trusses. If your trusses are over 6ft, then you would probably want blocking between trusses to prevent sagging with insulation on top of ceiling panels
Mine are 4 feet on center. Thank you for your quick response. I’m looking forward to this project and your video helped a lot with making a decision. Are your trusses 4 feet ?
Mine are 4 feet on center. Thank you for your quick response. I’m looking forward to this project and your video helped a lot with making a decision. Are your trusses 4 feet ?
@@RobertBowyer-hw4kq Mine are 6ft on center
Thank you.
if you heat the building that metal will sweat the plastic is better
I haven't noticed any sweating or condensation yet, and MN almost broke a freeze record with it getting to -32 for a Few days. That should of made ceiling drip as inside was about 60 degrees and attic should of been really cold with -32 outside temp. During the summer , I did have dripping in the unfinished building from underneath the roof panels. Winter isn't too humid , so I will see during the summer. But hopefully my sand thermal mass will be natural AC and will keep it cool enough. Also, it will be Air conditioned , so I shouldn't notice anything. Thanks for reply
Could people please try to make a sentence without um.
Oh .
Ya know.
Thank you