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Insulating our ceiling in our steel building/garage... What causes moisture in your shop? Explained.
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- čas přidán 10. 02. 2023
- In this video, we show you how we are insulating the ceiling in our garage/shop and installing a radiant barrier to prevent moisture/condensation build-up behind our steel ceiling. We talk about how the bubble foil insulation keeps the radiant heat in and how to keep the attic space from getting the moisture that everyone talks about.
Glad to see you two doing this in a wintery climate. A lot of the ones i see are in Texas or some other warm weather state. I'm in Michigan and want to build one and you're an inspiration
My uncle uses two layer of bubble insulation. He puts the first layer foil out and the second layer foil in and you get an amazing insulation. 😉👍
Always floil out to reflect external radiant heat.
Your uncle is a genius.
I was just trying to find out if this could be an option. Thanks for the info.
I am about to build a skillion pavilion central U.P. this summer. And thought about putting cheap barn steel from the Amish on the roof. But insulation. That bubble wrap works great under cabin floor sheeting. I do a lot of foundation work for the Amish. Overlap and staple. Just like masonry walls or piers needing 18 inches above grade so it can dry out. Gotta have good ventilation.
Excited to see your progress and sharing your costs. Enjoy the humor! Good luck bois! 👍👊💪
Thank you
I just discovered you guys and after seeing your thumbnails I will be checking out some of your vehicle stuff.
If you are finding that your roof insulation is not working as well as you hoped, that is because you do not have any radiant insulation. That bubble wrap that you were led to believe to be R12 is only giving you maybe an R2. It is a common misunderstanding and mistake because the people who are in the business of selling the radiant foil bubble wrap do not inform people that in order to get any radiant effect THERE MUST BE AN AIR SPACE IN FRONT THE FOIL SIDE. When you place something right up against the foil, you loose all the radiant properties.
It was really nice to see Joe treated so well this episode. Glad he survived his time in the hole.
😂
I was right in the middle of about to ask why you hung the insulation inside out, I'm glad I waited.
I hate to rain on your parade but radiant barrier insulation needs an air gap between the insulation ( foil side) and what ever surface it's up against. Other wise it will not do it's job. Don't believe me, look it up yourself. That being said, I do like the way you insulated your walls and you are right about spray foam ( not exactly what it's all cracked up to be). Great video. Thanks
A warm garage starts with the floor. I know you can’t go back now but here is what I did 25yrs go when building my pole barn. I dug an extra 2” down before the floor was poured. Then put in 4” of stone, then 2” foam board on top of that, wire mesh above the foam board, then concrete. Absolutely no moisture has ever come up through the floor and never experienced that cold garage floor when laying on the floor under a car. It also didn’t take much to heat the 32 x 72 building at all in our cold northeast winter. Best advice my elderly neighbor gave me.
So in theory you’d put the plastic 6mil I think above the gravel, then the insulation, then the wire mesh.
Condensation will drip down from metal roof . I used thermal building wrap with high temp glue then went over that with 1 inch insulation board including walls and heat 30*40 ft with wood stove open ceiling. However good work
Good job men with the vapor barrier. Nobody wants a thunderstorm in their garage!😂 Todd from da U.P.
Thanks Todd!
Gunna spund crazy but I promise it's well worth it. Buy a thermal digital gun with a screen showing you where heat or cold air is leaking so you can better take care of any leaky areas. Works stupidly amazing. You just don't need anything 300$+ something from Amazon for 130-180$ would do just fine. Or even the one at harbor freight I believe that I'd 209$ but that's what I got. You only need to screen to show you the area that's cooler/warmer/hotter/colder then the surrounding areas so you know there's a leak of air coming from that spot. You don't need the screen to be superhighway resolution just use it for the different temp changes and it will work great!
Celluslose is fine. We don't have a bug problem...the mice can mess with it but just keep critter control. My house is 30yrs old cellulose is a good value insulation. It's treated with boric acid...keeps bugs out and stops mold grow.
Chad, I'm gonna come up there and lock you in that sarcophagus if y'all don't get busy on the car builds. 🤣
For real though, I do appreciate seeing how the work space is being put together and I am certain there are folks who really appreciate the information y'all are providing about how to create their own garage work space.
😂 well yuh know we gotta get the garage all pretty first!
@@G.A.N.G101 🤣🤣🤣
Nice job guys !!!! Thanks for aii the information !!!!! 👍
Our pleasure!
@@G.A.N.G101 love other channel too ! 9252 life !!!!!!👍
A great amount of good information. thanks. Please keep at your Wonderful projects. Thanks. Keep saving $$$$$
Thank you!
There is a difference between heat transfer and water transfer. When heat transfers through a surface it simple leaves the moisture behind. Condensation.
In a climate like that in the upper Midwest, with cold winters and hot summers, which way should the foils side of that wrap go? You show it in a cold climate pointed towards the living space, but when trying to keep it cool in the summer, how does the foil wrap perform?
Reflective or radiant barrier needs at least a 3/4" air gap to work properly. You just wasted most of its effectiveness by screwing metal directly to it.
Great video guys, who's insulation did you use?
OK so, in Florida I should put the reflector upward to keep the heat in the attic area to be vented outward with the ventilation ribs.......
Nice video guys! Looking forward to seeing some cars coming out of there now! And I somehow think....Taleah is waiting patiently (???) for HER car to get done! And 3 other girls are going to be in line too! Take care, be safe and God bless!
We're working on a military truck soon. Too many projects with so little time
Very informative! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Blown in fiberglass is 100 times better to work with plus better R value but it does cost more and you can actually see while installing its not dusty.
Looking forward to the great content.
Looking forward tomore.❤
That nifty 50 on that pole looks super familiar did that come from michigan?
Looking to do my garage similar to what you all did. I got double bubble going on my roof and walls. Then like to do 2" foam board on walls with blow in cellulose in the ceiling as well. Very curious how does your garage heat during the winter months? I'm going to put a multifuel stove in mine to keep warm. Like to keep it around 65ish during the winter months. I live in southern Indiana.
I'm building a metal building...I am thinking of installing 10m on the outside before I sheet the walls and roof
What about the condensation coming off the roof tin onto the roofs 2x4s?
What is your opinion on using foam board on the ceiling of a metal building in Florida?
you put it upside down, the silver to the top, but most of the time you put it under your roof so any moisture collected runs down and out, putting it on the flat will allow pooling of moisture
What do you plan to do to prevent condensation under the roof metal and trusses/purlins?
I honestly think that metal roof will still sweat and if it does it will get that insulation you are going to blow in wet. Seeing you have wooden studs it could even mildew and rot in time. Let's say it only does it a little and you never see any indication of a leak, but it is leaking and gets sponged up in the insulation. Not good. But hey, what do I know? You actually are going to have the same problem it you ever get a leak in the roof with a loose screw or seals on the metal roof screws going bad. But then again, what do I know? I truly hope you don't have either problem that I suggested could go wrong, but I am going to have closed cell foam sprayed on my metal roof.
We’ll keep you updated.
@@G.A.N.G101thinking about using this in my 3bay carport turned barn, how is it going woth condensation plz?
Great insulation info. is there anything you would recommend different. Or stick with what you guys did?
Ever try putting foam board on the studs then metal over the board.
Why couldn't it be done?
I actually am interested in what the floor is.
Pretty sire that should have been put on before the metal roof. I feel like the moisture will rot all your woof above that level
I'm just an old guy who's been building since he was fifteen years old but what they're doing with this insulation is bad you're creating an atmosphere up in between your metal roof and the lower roof some lures were made to catch fish some lures were made to catch fisherman nowadays they sell people so much s*** they don't need
@brianh2324 I am a different old guy who builds postframe buildings for a living. To answer your question: yes. I have seen plenty of uninsulated buildings, and most of the condensation happens on the roof, so that is where your money and time is best spent. It would be better if they had put the radient and vapor barrier above the frame - directly against the metal. If you have already built it without insulation, like theirs, then ventilation in the attic and a thoroughly taped air seal is essential.
is there an update or next in this "series" that shows the ceiling being insulated and sheet metal wall installation?
Was there a listing for the insulation that I missed somewhere? I have a noisy kid so it’s entirely possible
Bubble foil kicks ass!!!!
It sure does. We're very impressed with it
its looking great guys
Thank you!
Guys thought about continuing the foam boards under the metal roof between the trusses? Open trusses could be nice for storing stuff like scrap wood. That ceiling looks like a chore.
It would be great to know how the garage was built from scratch, yes. The footing, slab and frame, yes. Thank you please.
Good job , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Thanks for watching! We appreciate it!
What about the moisture between the steel and that barrier?
What type of insulation and barrier would you recommend for a mobile home underbelly?
Holy crap, between all the insulation and then it being very well sealed, you should be able to heat that space with what, two maybe three candles?
😂
Hey guys, just wondering how the bubble wrap has held up and if there have been any moisture issues?
Could i use the same foam board on my ceiling instead of the bubble foil?
Contractor I'm like 100 miles west of DC I work all around d.c.
YOU ALWAYS SNAP A LINE FOR THE FIRST ROW....
I have always wanted one of those King Tut sarcophagus' where did you get that!?
Great job. 🌸
Thank you
ok looking good there now I see a lot of people using rooffing tin on walls and ceiling if there resone thats better then OSB cuz I am rebuilding my shop and using OSB on the walls
No real reason other than look. Osb definitely has its upsides. You can hang anything anywhere. You do have to paint it or something though otherwise you're in a tan box
The metal roofing on the ceilings is considerably lighter than OSB that's why people use it.With OSB you have to make sure your roof trusses were engineered to handle the weight of a ceiling.With metal ceiling you are cutting weight down by at least 50% compared to OSB depending on the gauge thickness of the metal.
I believe it's R 1.2 not R 12 Two inchs of styrofoam rigid insulation is R 10
R Value is the rating given to any given material’s ability to slow down the transfer of heat. Depending on where it’s applied it will have a different R value. In our case it’s 12 when installing it in the ceiling.
@@G.A.N.G101 I realize that it is hard to hear. But they lied to you. They are quoting a system. Do you really believe that is R12? I used the same product as a vapor barrier but it does not offer any real insulation value. Please do your own research and correct this video before you have people copying and making the same mistake.
With a couple of decades in the insulation and building science business on my resume I just have to comment on some of your statements. The bubble wrap ‘insulation’ is a radiant barrier and requires an open space to reflect into. It does next to nothing to reduce conductive heat loss which is what you are dealing with when it is sandwiched between other materials and R-12 is a ridiculous marketing fantasy as others have pointed out. Other than that, you did a nice job here given that you didn’t want spray foam. Assuming that your attic is well ventilated even after the insulation is in place, it should work well for you.
Not R-12…not even close. There’s a lot of misinformation on this product some of which is marketing. Plus the fact that if the foil “radiant” surface is touching the metal roofing surface it’s no longer radiant. It’s Conduction.
Reflectix is good stuff but the misinformation is getting out of control.
@@cabinmanl
What brand is it that you are using and where did you buy it? I don't see it a Lowes.
I didn't see it, what is the brand of bubble foil sheets that you used for the ceiling? Did you say 13 r value just for the sheet?
Thank you
Ted
15 for the 3” pink and the bubble foil varies depending on where it’s being applied
Hi Guys, great channel and information. I am in the starting phases of a workshop barn and have loved your videos. Would you mind sharing your pole barn metal source? I live just south of the Mackinaw bridge, and our local Amish do not carry pole barn metal.
The Metal shop up here is in Engadine. I believe it’s called Mackinac Metal Sales.
What about the water dripping from the roof??
How was the building built please.
Who is the manufacturer of the mirrored bubble foil insulation?
Can’t remember right off hand but Google has a good selection
What is that foil Amish radiant barrier stuff called in real life?
what brand vaper barrier did you use? or where can u get it.
Can’t remember right off hand
I have a 68 Eldorado chop top, sat foa while, has rust, selling cheap
im getting ready to do my ceiling 1,500sq and im not looking forward to it
Unfortunately I need the attic space for storage! so I think I’m doing spray foam then installing a fan too suck the air out of the attic space does that sound like a good idea?
Yes that would be a good idea when you’re not heating your shop.
you guys sure have fun and issues lol hugssssss
You're not wrong about that 😆
I am looking at insulating a pole barn and want to keep the space between rafters and roof. How could I insulate directly against the ceiling?
You'd have to have wood between the rafters to screw this up to
@@G.A.N.G101 right. So just screwing the insulation to the purlins then? Leaving the 1 3/4 width of the 2x4 as an air gap?
What is the cost of those metal sheets? I'm thinking to do the same for my shop.
In Colorado, they're about $4.38 a square foot, not cheap. But easier than doing drywall, & that won't span 4' trusses without additional framing, plus no finishing needed.
Not sure right off hand. We purchased the metal from our local Amish which is much cheaper than the big box stores.
Where did you get that bubble wrap insulation?
From some local Amish. But big box stores sell it as well
Would it make sense to double the bubble insulation with top layer shiny side up and bottom layer, shiny side down?
Can't go wrong with more insulation
The shiny side is supposed to always face towards open air - you never let it contact a wall or ceiling. Unfortunately, these guys did it wrong.
I don’t know how that bubble foil can be 12 r?
It's what it said on the package but I think it definitely depends on application
It's really, really, really not.
The insulation value of the foil is nearly zero the way it was installed here. :(
Noooo.... You all were doing so great up until the "Cellulose", I've sold insulation for YEARS and cellulose is so bad. Is is paper. Rats/mice/bugs love paper. It says it has pesticides, but the heat dissipates those rather quickly. When/if it gets wet, it does not want to dry. Fiberglass is just glass. It can dry afterwards, it's just glass and works great for what it needs to do. Love the vids though. EDIT: It also weighs more than fiberglass. Edit: It is also like dust and tends to find it's way out onto everything.
We looked into the fiberglass blow in and it was 3 times the price and we just couldn't justify it.
@@G.A.N.G101 It does look like you all do your homework. I'd just recommend taking 1 more look at the pros and cons of this choice. insulation is usually sitting on top of drywall. In your case it will be on that bubble wrap and your sheet metal. I'm not sure how much weight per ft that will be, but trusses are usually 24" on center as well. I'd hate to see your stuff sagging. I charge $1 a ft to vacume the insulation out when it gets ruined. It may be ok. I'm in Florida with lots of water issues. Those metal buildings tend to get a water leak eventually.
I agree, in this application I’d go with the fiberglass blown in. Definitely do some shopping around and see if there is a cheaper supplier. If not, make sure to have an attic access and check it often, if not even put some lights up there too! Best wishes, and can’t wait for the next video.
Very good insulation R less than 1, good stuff yes not for me any ways. I have already used that crap to try to insulate the garage side of a huge garage door, waste of money.
r12 for that!!? normally that bubble stuff is R3 ... what's the brand LOL!?
Well what’s the name on the bubble foil doods who makes it? Help a brother out
There’s a few different companies that make this. Do a Google search for some in your area. We purchased ours from our local amish
What about air space in the walls so the insulation board isn't touching the metal
The 3” foam board from Owens Corner is a vapor barrier as well and having it against the metal on the inside is fine as it’s not an exterior wall.
@@G.A.N.G101 So the air space is only needed at the exterior side. Thank you for the reply
Let Joe have a microphone, tooooo!
He’s got one. He’s just got that soft girly voice
@@G.A.N.G101 😳
Why does condensation occur? Not because hot meets cold. It’s because cold meets humidity. Hot and cold dry air doesn’t matter.
Welp, I'm jealous. Jake
Where is the floor and wall video????
Why Did You Not Use Bubble Wrap Under Your Foam on Your Walls
Tin isn't up yet. We're probably going to do that
Do you think 1" foam board with a reflective surface sealed to the metal walls and ceilings (taped everywhere to seal it...then using R-13 and R-30 (ceiling) would be okay for a. 12x24 metal shed building? Its in a pretty high humidity area. I'm just a girl and I can't find the best way to do it (short of closed cell spray foam) which I can't afford.
❤😊❤
12-R it is not. Bubble-wrap marketing materials often tout ridiculously high R-values that have nothing to do with the thermal performance of the material; the exaggerated numbers are based on assembly R-values, not material R-values. Assembly R-values take credit for the R-value of building component layers that aren’t sold by bubble wrap manufacturers: things like layers of plywood, drywall, or air spaces located between the bubble wrap and an adjacent surface. That from the Green Building Association. Cold air above will settle down and chill your entire celing assembly. Cold air sinks.
Very impressive and looking good but let's see some cars.
We've got a big military truck that we just got. Probably doing something with that soon
Don't let the moisture from in side get into the attic. Moisture retarder sealed up. Building science. Bubble foil is NOT r-12. Are you heating with infrared heat?
I hope you really sealed out the holes or gaps, or you will be supporting critters for all time.
Hold on. The Amish hooked you up by using a mule to melt metal and create sheet metal? Freaking amazing.
Lol
🙋👍
that foil isn't really R12. It's R12 inside a dead air wooden assembly, basically a wooden box with the foil in the middle. Thing is the wooden assembly with dead air is around R10ish LOL. gotta read the fine print. A radiant barrier needs to be able to see the heat source to radiate it back. In this case it is covered with metal which is its own radiant barrier LOL. So is it better than just using plastic for the vapor barrier? Yes because its more durable. Is it R12? Nope. Its maybe R1 and reflecting minimal radiant heat back and forth between the metal roof and itself. Also, if you use propane to heat the garage moisture is still going to collect on the metal. czcams.com/video/zzD1TPJq_OQ/video.html
Oh boy. Radiant barrier must have an air gap. Pretty much worthless as installed. Sorry. Had you left the steel panels off it would have worked. Same deal with putting it under a slab. No air space and it fails as an insulating feature. The bubbles in the wrap do not solve that problem. Nothing can touch the reflective surface.
yeah, appreciate the information (both videos). thank you. I agree, getting all my Gorilla shelves and lumber, out first, oh man! But If i tried to heat it now, i'd be responsible for Literal Global warming! double snare *cymbal crash.
3:43 putting metal sheeting directly over a radiant barrier completely negates the radiant barrier. do some research on improper radiant barrier installation.
Put the vapor barrier on backwards… 🤦🏾♂️
R 12 hahahaha
Wanna buy a bridge?
Sorry guys, i think you've been fooled.
Lots of work here! But it’s Wrong. This is going to cause a lot of moisture. If you don’t mind rot or the potential for mold
I'm wondering if you have a better suggestion for metal shed buildings (short of spraying closed cell foam)? Thank you.
Love rot. It really tickles our fancy.
@@G.A.N.G101 Hi Great American. Did it actually rot? I hope not. Its just getting too costly to redo anything a second time!
This assembly isn't going to rot. They've got a vapor barrier preventing warm moist air from entering and contacting cold surfaces in the attic space, as well as insulation in the attic VENTED area. Where would all this mysterious rot come from?
your shop maybe easier to heat than your house.
The walls and ceiling sure are easier to get at
A lot of beer and can’t make it outside.