Triangle Tube Indirect Water Heater Install
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Triangle Tube Indirect Water Heater Install
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If stationary camera in a small space, get a wider angle lens and an 8 or 6 k camera and zoom out. Then zoom in and reframe in post to get 4k
I really enjoy the different camera angles you choose for each job. It may just be a matter of practicality, but it's interesting to see jobs done from different viewpoints. Thanks for your quality production work as well as your plumbing skills.
The nature of the beast is if you have to work on any equipment the space always resembles a closet. One professional at a time. Mike in progressing in his abilities. Liquid Propane is just the most dangerous fuel. Glad that you were not seriously injured. Thanks for your efforts in making your content for your channel.
what? that is a huge glorious spacious mechanical room!!!!
yeah, I'm the guy that would eat 30 square foot of floor space for mechanical room and every contractor afterwards would love the free space and ease of labor ;)
tp v just add a brass couplig good enuf 4 that nayborhood
Awesome Video. Very informative and shows what happens when they package it wrong...
at 11:44 I'd like to see 45 ells instead of 90's LOL.
Great job guys.
No explen how conect the line
Good looking job u guys kinda missed the blue dope today no pleasure today lol didn't think could get 3 days in a row 👍👍👍
u feelin bettr bro
Regardless of its direct or indirect heating of a water source it's still a water heater Friday lol
Nice video! Random question for you, I have the m12 press tool and use viega fittings and it’s always getting stuck on fittings, it drives me crazy. I notice yours doesn’t. I’ve tried the scotch pad like recommended but it still does it. Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks
Gotta get a Bahco wrench
I have an American Standard heritage 13 ac/heat pump unit. You've helped me before so thought i could pick your brain again. Heat pump comes on and works fine but ac comes on for 30 secs and cuts off, any idea? Thanks!!
To be honest with you not sure could be A TXV issue
Does that water heater really need the dielectric unions ?
No
@@MiHeatingGuy so why use them on this install ?
@@iggymac3473 -- They didn't plumb a valve for draining the new tank, so it's useful to have a union there to disconnect at least the cold connection so the tank can be siphoned / drained when needed. As Mike said, the Triangle Tube welded stainless tanks don't have a drain valve in either the potable water tank or the boiler water container. So I was surprised that they did not include any drain-to-hose valve on the cold water side. I also didn't see a pressure expansion tank on the cold side -- hopefully there is one that was just out of the picture.
was the existing zone valve full port or not? Have you considered the head loss of it and knocking the 1" tapping down to 3/4"?
Have you tested different brands of the press fittings. I have seen a lot of differnt brand out there and of course some of them look pretty crappy.
Its a good thing you boys have the propress . You boys would have been there all day sweating and fitting that water heater .
Watching you two plumb is like watching two old people do it lol.
HVAC question here. I have an 11 year old Carrier Infineon series A/C/heat pump. I was told by a reputable company in my area that the TXV valve is "slammed shut" causing the system to pump down while in cooling mode. But I have heard that many of times the TXV can be repaired. Seen a few HVAC videos on this too. I am being quoted at $852 for the replacement TXV part and labor. Your thoughts?
Carrier TXV's can not be repaired. And if it is a copper or tin plated coil I would replace the whole coil. copper and tin coils are known to leak
@@MiHeatingGuy You mean the entire A coil? when the tech was out he did inspect for a coil leak in both the indoor and outdoor part of the unit and did not find any. He thought it was the compressor going out as it was making that gurgling noise when there is low or no refrigerant going to it. A second senior tech came out and then determined it was the TXV.
yes the whole coil. your going to waste your money on just the TXV
@@MiHeatingGuy while I hate to agree with the pricey ending, yes, that's the best bet.
then again, is there something wrong with the reversing valve in the outdoor unit? have you owned it from new and never had to have it recharged? if not, then I'd be weary about it and debate hard about full replacement. I hate replacing older equipment, but you have to factor in the background life of it, from install to current ;)
@@MiHeatingGuy You think I should go with a whole new unit then? Considering its age, other components might break. At least with a new system I can finance it.
Mikey reminds me of Joseph Gordon-Levitt
No mixing valve required in your area?
No
Ok
Seems a waste to install copper pipe that lasts hundreds of years to something that lasts 5 years and then cut it out
Yep. PEX-B would be fine, and could've avoided the two 90 degree elbows. Without the press fitting rig, that may have been his choice because sweating all of those connections would've taken a lot of time.
Curious how old Mike is? I'm 29 and I'm always the young buck on a job by a good 10 years and he looks younger than me. Hardly ever see many guys my age or younger out there in the trades. Our age demographic is really lacking out there lol.
that's exactly an major issue now days, "too many chiefs and no braves" as a saying that should describe the very near future outcome.
lack of laborers, lack of field knowledge, skill and craftsmanship. with nobody knowing how to build, produce or repair anything worthwhile.
17:07,sounds like a loose bowel!
relief valve leaking on boiler, guaranteed expansion tank and fill valve issue. unless it was fiddled with by some clown too often ;)
same for DHW, backflow on city side and dead expansion tank = T&P valve leaking. the tanks used to last for many years, now days? two to three years and it's bleeding off like mad, at five years guaranteed land fill material.
woah woah woah, what you though was the dip tube, may have been an anode rod on the hot outlet and the dip tube was very straight on the cold inlet, making it hard to see.
I hope that's not the case and you didn't swap the fittings and plumb it backwards lol (but "poo happens" and we take to much for granted lol)
** ahh visible/easy swapped dip-tube and color code escutcheons. that's kind of nice, you could swap the hot/cold inlet easily and it shouldn't effect the operation any.
RTFM(read the forking manual) :))) yeah we're all guilty of assuming things, then have to facepalm after the fact or catch it mid install. "life" lol