@@mick9223 There sure is more than on way to skin a cat, But what about your way makes you a pro and Del an armature? Just curious mate! If you have a better way can you share??
I am a self taught carpenter.. my boss took government grant and used me as labour .. I can do a decent job but watching videos like this makes me millions times better.... thank you for this video .. its the small things you do what will make such a big difference to my work..
Hi Steve🖐I was also used a cheap labour under the YTS scheme in the 1980's, but was lucky to leave that greedy company and get a start on a decent firm👍I'm glad my videos are helping to hone your skills, as its why I'm posting them to CZcams👊All the best😎Cheers Del
Well done, Steve! If you work wood for your income, you are a chippie like the rest of us! CSCS cards I believe are getting phased out??? Not sure but if you need one for sitework you can get an on-site assessment for fairly cheap and get a blue skilled worker carpentry card which would allow you on all British sites - no NVQ required, in fact it will grant you level 2 status. Just a thought, and best wishes mate.
I'd never even used a wood chisel until yesterday. I fitted my first L&K and I rushed in and I made a right pigs ear of it. Today after watching this video decided to make my second attempt on another one. It wasn't 100% perfect, but it was 50x better than yesterdays disaster. Thanks for taking to time to show not just to how to complete the task, but how to also make a great job of it!
I've been fitting doors for 40 years and I must say this is a more better way than mine I will be doing it this way from now on thankyou for the content very interesting
I am in the process of replacing all the internal doors in my house, I was dreading the latch but this video is unbelievably helpful, so informative but also so straightforward. Thank you!!
Just the bit where you chisel out the latch hole to make it slightly bigger has made me happy- I'm replacing an old latch with a new one that is a couple of mils bigger and wondered how easy it would be.
I have followed this video to the letter and have today completed fitting my tubular mortice latch to double doors with complete success. I found it most informative, thank you very much for posting it.
I'm an occastional DIY'r. I have minimal chisel skills, but I followed your instructons the very best I could to install my latch. I especially like the tip about scewing the latch on backwards and outlining around the plate with a utility knife. I was very careful and it took me a loooong time, but it came out nicely. (At first I thought I chipped some of the thin edge wood, but it was only paint! [whew!]) So, thank you for doing this! 👍
What a pleasure to watch a craftsman at work, Im an engineer by trade and am going to fit a door at my daughters house later today. Will use your excellent video as guidance later.
Hey I'm a carpenter of 20 years. It's nice to see someone with good technique. I always use a knife where possible on finer work. One thing I have learnt is using the marking guage to make extra sure with the marking of the latch plate. With real poor quality fittings you might even have to avoid this but I will be using this technique in the future. Our techniques are almost identical on this matter. I do give a little rub down with some fine paper on the outer edges of the cut out to smooth them off before I put the final plate on. Good job. I've just found you and just subscribed. 👍
Hi Simon🖐You got me on giving the faceplate housing a little tickle with some sandpaper before fitting the latch😬I do it on hinge housing when using a router, and should, like you, also do it when fitting latches as it just softens the edges very slightly👍Thanks for subscribing and it's always cool to have a fellow carpenter watching and commenting😎Cheers Del
It took me 5 hours to do this after watching the video, 2 hours of that was trying to get the latch lined up with the door frame plate. Not horrendous for my first time, but I don't think my grandfathers would be proud of my handiwork (I was too young to learn from them). I only locked myself in the bathroom twice doing it! Thank you for the video :)
Thank you for this video and the lever fitting vid, helped me no end, especially the jig. I also learned the hard way how important it is to properly pre drill latch and keep holes. I managed to snap the head off one, in the door and then one got stuck before it was fully home. Lesson learnt and job done. Thank you ✌️
Well explained for a diy person to follow,most video's i've found seem made for the more experienced diy capable person and not as easy to follow. With the great tips you gave along the way and the reason behind them is the way to go.
I used to fit latches this way but then invested in a Sauber lock mortising jig, never looked back quick and accurate even does the forend recess. Saves so much time on mortice locks and tubular latches.
Hi there🖐I've heard great things about this jig, and think I'm just a bit old-school and still enjoy fitting my latches the traditional way🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I like the idea of drilling the spindle holes first, but when it comes to the latch plates I like to use a trim router and an 18mm bit to take out the bulk of the material and then clean up with the chisel. (Steady hand) Removes the guess work with trying to achieve plate depth, I've also been experimenting with the Souber Latch Jig. Allows you to drill two 23mm holes overlapping each other for the latch body, it is very square and has a depth stop. Also you don't have to square up the hole afterwards with a chisel. Great video though, I watch your stuff all the time. Really enjoy the content! Thanks for another one.
Hi there🖐I definitely hear what you're saying about routing out the faceplate, and I've heard many people say how great the Souber jig is👊Thanks for your great comment 🤩Cheers Del
ive always gone 1 meter off the floor but i like the idea of going off the top of the door so theirs no need to square the lines around. i also use a Stanley knife to mark the keeps. ive always used a spade bit to drill the mortice! ill give a auger bit ago now though. another great video 👍🏻.
Hi Tomm. I find that a good quality auger bit tends to hold its line a bit better than a spade bit.👍 Its cool that you knife round the latch plate and keep the same as me.😎 Thanks for watching and your comment.🤩
Another great video. I usually measure from the floor, with multiple doors the handles generally have more chance of lining up, particularly in hallways. I like the way you fix the faceplate on the door, will give that a go. When I use an auger, I clamp a block on the door not to split it. (Particularly cheap doors) I learnt that off my dentist when he drilled my teeth. Always good to watch how others do it. Thanks
Hi Jerry. Your clamping idea is a good one, and fortunately, I don't have many issues with splitting due to pilot drilling.👍 Thanks for your great comment and for watching.😎
@@thetallcarpenter I agree. To be honest, like you I always use a pilot drill but I noticed on those cheap doors ( not supplied by me they can split) maybe a change of drill needed. Your latches are spot on.
@@donaloconnor3352 I wasn’t very clear Donal. Just put a clamp where I drill the lock out. The door becomes a sandwich between the two outer blocks. I hope that clears it up a bit.
Great video Del, you manged to make a still image of a door really exciting. Well explained, thanks! I hope to have the time to see your trussed roof video soon, your explanation is spot on.
Thanks for your kind comment Romperstomper.🤩 I've got a small roof truss video coming out soon, and have recently done a trussed roof hip video.😎 Thanks for watching.
@@thetallcarpenter Honestly, you are one of the best youtubers, reacting to all and engaging with us and showing the day to days instead of the specials only. Besides that your direct voice and attention to details makes me aspire to be like that in my builds, which are honestly a bit slower, a bit sloppier then I sometimes hope for (been in this not that long but it is good to have a high standard). Your 40 minute video about the trusses is one I want to see when I am fully awake haha ;). Thanks for sharing and have a great evening!
Good show, always nice to watch a job well done. TIL to measure from the top and drill the holes for the handle first. Combination squares are underrated! I use the corner tip of a chisel to mark outlines.
I like the idea of using a chisel to mark round as it's gonna be super sharp👊You're right about how underrated the combination square is👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Love it, Del! My old mortise gauge got pinched in Wrexham's notorious Queen's/Caia Park so I bit the bullet and bough a Veritas (don't ask how much!) wheeled-cutter mortise gauge which I used in place of the Stanley knife up and down the grain - much quicker, much more accurater, much more funner. Excuse the spelling, I'm ill-educated.
i have a very similar technique.. but i definitely picked up a very good tip on measuring the latch depth for the receiver plate.. well done,😀 very good you tube video
Hi Lee🖐It's good to know my methods are similar to yours and others and I'm glad you found something in the video you might find useful🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Served my time as a joiner were about the same age. I always use low tack tape for marking out and always set my router to cut the face plates in then clean the corners for a perfect no gap fit.
Nice work. I'm 100% not a carpenter but managed to hang 3 doors in our house and fit locks and handles....they look like Jack Nicholson attacked them with an axe 😅
Like your technique mate, have never thought of just using the tape, I've always just squared around....great tip, it's those that help us all. Keep up the great videos, love them.
Great vid, screwing the faceplate to the door and knifing around it is exactly how I do it, much neater finish that way. I find If u use a 25mm auger u don't have to chisel the corners of the mortice out to take the latch body and the hole is just small enough to be covered by the faceplate
Hi Marc🖐Yeah, it's a great way to get a nice accurately fitting faceplate👊and glad to hear we do it the same🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Very thorough thanks mate. I've made a few notes. It's amazing how many steps there are really. I've done a few in the past but generally messed the order of works up .. Not any more 👍🙏
@@thetallcarpenter Looking good. I had to use a 19mm auger on the door spindle instead of the required 20 as i only own 19,22 and 25mm. The 22 looks look close to the bolt thru fittings on a test piece. So opted for 19mm spindle and 25mm latch body. 👍 I couldn't find the auger size you used in the vid, I may have missed it 👍
@@hedgerowsandzeros I actually use a 22mm auger for the latch body and a 19mm for the spindle hole. I find the a 25mm bit for the latch body is, more or less, the same size as the faceplate, which doesn't leave much room for error😮Cheers
I honestly dont know how you managed to easily square the 22mm latch hole with your 3 quarter chisel. Its always such hard work. I have seen people cut around the latch with a stanley knife but i never had much success doing that way. I thought the work standard was excellent. I have seen your cut and pitch videos and i think very highly of your skillset.
I use a ply template hang it from top of door . If you have a few to do it’s time saving . Got a corner chisel cuts a right angle quick and easy . Usually I drill the lock out screw the barrel in place mark round it take it out and cut the excess away . Some doors only have a lock block on one side as well . I’ve also got a jig to drill at a perfect 90 degrees . Nowt worse than a wonky mortise .
Hi Colin🖐You're right about jigs bud, and they are definitely worth taking the time to make, especially if you've got a fee to do👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Fitted loads of these when I was working always with hand tools mainly and agree that those black boxes where a right pain, as well as the tang at 90° on the back of the keep itself. Never could understand what they were for but I admit if I was asked to remedy doors that were rattling I would use pliers to bend these a bit. 😀😎😎
Hi Kevin. I think that's what that 'tang' is actually for🤔if it isn't, it certainly works, as you describe, to stop a rattly door if you bend it out👊Another great comment bud😎Cheers Del
Hi Del nice job these square tubular latches are a pain and seems as if the old round ones are almost nonexistent now every job I get now for hanging doors has these squared ones supplied, I have the new style trend lock jig that will do a rectangular cut out for them so not so bad 👍 great video and technique for fitting the latch & keep.
Hi Rob. Yeah, it used to be that latches would slide straight into a 7/8",(22mm), hole, but as you say, not so much nowadays.😬 Thanks for watching and your comment.😎 Cheers.
Love how you take the time to show how it's done properly. Have you thought about using router jigs when having to do loads of latch and keeps in new builds?
Hi Alex🖐Being a 'general' carpenter, I tend to have kit that can do more than one job, so don't tend to invest in specific bits of kit like that🤔 (plus the vans not big enough to cart it all around in😆) Thanks for your comment 😎Cheers Del
I hate doing doors some really good tips like using combi square for latch location and putting the plate on back to front whilst marking it on the door. I had to pack a few latches with cardboard on my first few doors
I’m glad someone else cuts the top and bottom of latch hole with a chisel I don’t understand the manufacturer’s not making a latch that fits and operates in a 22mm hole like the older versions
Hi Paul. Your comment has saved my sanity, as I was sure that latches always used to fit straight into a 7/8" or 22mm hole😲 I just don't like using a 25mm bit as it's the same size as the faceplate👍 Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Diarmuid. A centre hole drill is something I have NEVER used, and I don't really know why.🤯 I sometimes like to drill my pilot holes off centre to help pull hardware tight to a housing shoulder, but I really do need to get a set of centre hole bits.😎 Thanks for watching.
I make a quick jig for the face plate and route them out with a tiny 3/8 pattern bit from wealden tools. Takes maybe ten mins to make jig then route out a full house worth of latches in seconds. Other reason I route them is I'm not great at chiselling out shallow mortices!
Hi O Bez. That's a really good approach to doing multiple doors and, as you say, the time invested in making a jig is paid back tenfold when actually doing the job.👊 Thanks for watching and your comment.😎
Funny what you did with the latch face place fixing it on backwards and cutting round it is exactly what I do. Gets an immaculate finish. Not seen many other guys do it like that
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the reply 😊. You had any experience with the trend hinge jig? I've got 15 fire doors to hang so was thinking of investing in one.
@@rossmale8715 One MILLION percent get one Ross🤟👊🤟I bought the one price Trend jig a couple of years ago, and it's SO much faster than cutting in butt's by hand👍I did 12 Oak doors last week. Started at 8.30 and finished at 3.30. (with two half hour tea breaks🍵)Very good investment👊
@@thetallcarpenter that's brilliant thanks. Seen so much online but wanted an opinion I could trust. 15 pre finished fire doors with a pair n half hinges. Gonna save a hell of a time
I do them almost exactly the same way, I remember when I worked out all on my own as a wee Chappy! 😂 to score around it with a knife, I thought I was a genius 😂 from the old slow draw with pencil and chisel way The fact the 25 mm bit they tell you to use is TOO BIG always annoyed me! ( the latchmate chisel is a nice bit of kit) I like a bit of masking tape and a centre line to work of and self cantering drills are a god send. For the most part we work exactly the same way, are both 1971’rs I think so both around 35 yrs into our apprenticeships, just bloody immature amateurs mate 😜 Seriously I think there’s a maturity that causes a mind shift from ‘this way or the highway! ( I / my company do things the RIGHT WAY! Everyone else is a cowboy!’ Type of mentality ( I’ve been there!!!) to a ‘whatever works and leaves the best job in a timely manner’ mindset…. If it’s faster and better ( no quality reduction). I’m absorbing it into the collective, resistance is futile 😜 You have to be the most actively well rounded carpenter if seen for a while Del, with regards to the different tasks you do, it’s impressive! I usually knock back stuff I haven’t done for ages as it’s uncomfortable and quite slow, maybe particular tools you need are ‘somewhere’ but usually when I man up, need the money or am forced into it, I piss it in and am better at it than I remember being before 😂. Transferring skills, knowledge and mindset is a big part of the craft 👍🏻 ( long one sorry😂)
Hi OCS🖐Love the comment bud, and I'm actually of 1969 vintage, so, more or less, the same timespan😉I know you mean about being asked to do a job you haven't done for ages, and your mind making you think you've forgotten how to do it, but like you say, when it comes to the crunch, it's just like getting back on a bike, and once you've completed the job you wonder why you stressed about in the first place🤯Again, great comment bud, and thanks for your support which means a lot coming from a fellow carpenter🤩Cheers Del
Just spent a day fitting doors, but not sure why I’m watching this 🤣, but I do really like your presentation style. I really don’t like the black boxes/keeps, prefer to see a nice neat cut hole, just another piece of unnecessary plastic in the world!
Thanks, mate, very informative and much better (naturally) than my previous efforts. Quick question - what size augur bit do you use for this type of lock, coz I definitely need one. Thanks
That's how you do it! 😅After 40 years experience, still learning, probably fitted thousands of doors, mainly solid real oak, them chipboard veneered ones are very heavy! 7 stone each, difficult to get up narrow staircase holes!
Hi Andrew🖐You're so right mate, and there is always something new to learn👊And, yeah, lugging heavy doors about is definitely not a highlight of the job😵💫Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice job,the only things i do different is at a 1metre i put a light line across the edge of the door and have a square set at 57mm to mark the spindle hole.Havn't explained it very well but it's late lol.
Adjustable catches are literally my favourite thing in the whole world. Alot of my work is new doors in old wacky frames. Nothing worse than looking like a wood butcher when you get the old style catches a mm wrong and the door won't shut or it does but there's that annoying rattle and you have to try move it very slightly one way or the other.
Hi Kallum🖐You're right bud, and those little adjustable tabs are really cool for getting the door to close just right against the stops👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
As a fairly experienced door hanger, my personal top tip, especially with new linings and doors that are going to be painted, is fit the catch and adjust the tab with your flathead about a mm or two more than you want to before you tack on the stops. That way it can be adjusted back if the paint ends up thick enough to prevent the latch from catching. It's better than the Robin clevitt method of setting the stops back the thickness of a credit card. Which I have tried
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 Interesting Kallum 🤔 And its easy to forget about the thickness of 3 coats of paint😬I always set the stops back a mil or so on the hanging side, and on the flapping side, I nail the stops tight to the door about a foot from the top and a foot from the bottom, and then just pull the handle slightly so it pushes the door stop back a mil or so, before pinning the rest of it. This gives a a bit of tolerance for paint at the latching point, but also puts slight tension on the door, top and bottom edges which stops it from rattling👊Cheers Del
Hi Dell, great job as always. I have always used a router plane to recess my face plates/keeps or receivers. Found it to be a great way to get an accurate depth every time minus the mess when using an electric router. If you were doing this on a rebated door frame, how would you deminstrate how to use a router on the keeps? Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter hi, ja I usually make an mdf packer the same thickness as the rebate and have a cut out for the keep or hinge and use double sided tape to attach it.
hi Del do you recommend auger bits for drilling out locks / latches on oak doors minefield with so many different wood drill bits on the market fab videos mate
Hi Tim. Funny you should say that, but the escutcheons for the bathroom locks were an absolute NIGHTMARE to get to work with the privacy locks.😩 (I nearly threw my toys out of the pram😆) Thanks for watching.😎
@@thetallcarpenter they are good mate, i would say you could do three locks or latches to one done by hand. Had mine a few years now and it payed for itself on one barn full of doors. You should look into it mate. Keep up the good work buddy.
Great video thanks. I’m a complete. novice. How might I convert an internal utility door to a simple mortise lock please? Do you have such a video? My goal is to then jnsert a switchbot on the other side.
@@thetallcarpenter well that’s great thanks. Your tutorial was so complete even I will have a bash at this. Thanks so much for your absolutely professional video
What type of drill bit is that! I've tried a flat one and another one which cut jabbed when it was deep in the door. Yours looks it clears out the did debris as you drill. Wouldn't mind getting one but can't find one so need to know name of type of bit. Thanks
Also, I have found that no matter how I measure where the strike plate should go from where the latch sits on the door frame, it never is quite in the right place and if I drill pilot and fix strike plate, it is really hard to move it that 1-2 mm to ensure snug fit with no rattle. I have taken to fixing strike plate in place with sellotape (I know, amateur) and moving slightly until good fit with closing door before finally fixing strike plate in correct position. It's probably just lacking experience as I'm just a DIY guy learning.
This is the kind of drill I use. Just make sure to put a small, (3mm), pilot drill in first so the screw on the auger bit doesn't split the door👍 www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Auger-Wood-Drill-Bit---22-x-210mm/p/168647
I know it can be tricky getting the latch plate in the right place so the door doesn't rattle when hanging doors in linings that already have the stops on, and if your sellotape method is working for you, I'd STICK with that😉 (excuse the pun😆) Cheers Del
Amateur
🤣
Cmon then mick, let’s see how it’s done
@@RestorationsFOD Don't hold your breath bud😆
@@RestorationsFOD there's other ways to skin a cat! Better
@@mick9223
There sure is more than on way to skin a cat,
But what about your way makes you a pro and Del an armature?
Just curious mate!
If you have a better way can you share??
I am a self taught carpenter.. my boss took government grant and used me as labour .. I can do a decent job but watching videos like this makes me millions times better.... thank you for this video .. its the small things you do what will make such a big difference to my work..
Hi Steve🖐I was also used a cheap labour under the YTS scheme in the 1980's, but was lucky to leave that greedy company and get a start on a decent firm👍I'm glad my videos are helping to hone your skills, as its why I'm posting them to CZcams👊All the best😎Cheers Del
Great video, well done
Well done, Steve! If you work wood for your income, you are a chippie like the rest of us! CSCS cards I believe are getting phased out??? Not sure but if you need one for sitework you can get an on-site assessment for fairly cheap and get a blue skilled worker carpentry card which would allow you on all British sites - no NVQ required, in fact it will grant you level 2 status. Just a thought, and best wishes mate.
I'd never even used a wood chisel until yesterday. I fitted my first L&K and I rushed in and I made a right pigs ear of it.
Today after watching this video decided to make my second attempt on another one. It wasn't 100% perfect, but it was 50x better than yesterdays disaster. Thanks for taking to time to show not just to how to complete the task, but how to also make a great job of it!
Hi there🖐That's really cool that my video helped improve you latch fitting🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I've been fitting doors for 40 years and I must say this is a more better way than mine I will be doing it this way from now on thankyou for the content very interesting
Hi David. I find it pretty quick and quite accurate.😎 Thanks for watching and your comment.🤩
Same here.. embarrassing isn't it! All about good sharp tools
I am in the process of replacing all the internal doors in my house, I was dreading the latch but this video is unbelievably helpful, so informative but also so straightforward. Thank you!!
I'm glad my video has helped👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
The clearest most precise explanation out there
That's a great connent bud🤩and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Just the bit where you chisel out the latch hole to make it slightly bigger has made me happy- I'm replacing an old latch with a new one that is a couple of mils bigger and wondered how easy it would be.
Don't be scared to attack with the chisel Mark👊Cheers Del
I have followed this video to the letter and have today completed fitting my tubular mortice latch to double doors with complete success. I found it most informative, thank you very much for posting it.
Thats great to hear John😎Cheers Del
I'm an occastional DIY'r. I have minimal chisel skills, but I followed your instructons the very best I could to install my latch. I especially like the tip about scewing the latch on backwards and outlining around the plate with a utility knife. I was very careful and it took me a loooong time, but it came out nicely. (At first I thought I chipped some of the thin edge wood, but it was only paint! [whew!]) So, thank you for doing this! 👍
I'm glad my video helped you, and thanks for taking the time to comment🤩Cheers Del
What a pleasure to watch a craftsman at work, Im an engineer by trade and am going to fit a door at my daughters house later today. Will use your excellent video as guidance later.
Hi Simon🖐Thanks for your great comment🤩and I'm sure you will have no problems in making a nice job of fitting your daughters door👊Cheers Del
Hey I'm a carpenter of 20 years. It's nice to see someone with good technique. I always use a knife where possible on finer work. One thing I have learnt is using the marking guage to make extra sure with the marking of the latch plate. With real poor quality fittings you might even have to avoid this but I will be using this technique in the future. Our techniques are almost identical on this matter. I do give a little rub down with some fine paper on the outer edges of the cut out to smooth them off before I put the final plate on. Good job. I've just found you and just subscribed. 👍
Hi Simon🖐You got me on giving the faceplate housing a little tickle with some sandpaper before fitting the latch😬I do it on hinge housing when using a router, and should, like you, also do it when fitting latches as it just softens the edges very slightly👍Thanks for subscribing and it's always cool to have a fellow carpenter watching and commenting😎Cheers Del
It took me 5 hours to do this after watching the video, 2 hours of that was trying to get the latch lined up with the door frame plate. Not horrendous for my first time, but I don't think my grandfathers would be proud of my handiwork (I was too young to learn from them). I only locked myself in the bathroom twice doing it! Thank you for the video :)
Perseverance is the key, and sounds like you got it done in the end👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
“There’s plenty of way in doing this” but this is the right way to fit a tubular latch.
Del another masterclass my friend 👏👏
You're too kind Mark🤗Thanks for watching bud 😎 Cheers Del
Thank you for this video and the lever fitting vid, helped me no end, especially the jig. I also learned the hard way how important it is to properly pre drill latch and keep holes. I managed to snap the head off one, in the door and then one got stuck before it was fully home. Lesson learnt and job done. Thank you ✌️
I'm glad you found my videos helpful Matthew 👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Excellent tutorial thanks. I have done this several times before but not for a while. Some of the tips you gave were really helpful 😊
My pleasure🤩and thank you for watching😎Cheers Del
Well explained for a diy person to follow,most video's i've found seem made for the more experienced diy capable person and not as easy to follow. With the great tips you gave along the way and the reason behind them is the way to go.
Hi there 🖐 I appreciate you watching the video, and thanks for your great comment 😎 I'm glad that you found it easy to follow🤩Cheers Del
I used to fit latches this way but then invested in a Sauber lock mortising jig, never looked back quick and accurate even does the forend recess. Saves so much time on mortice locks and tubular latches.
Hi there🖐I've heard great things about this jig, and think I'm just a bit old-school and still enjoy fitting my latches the traditional way🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
what a great video, great way to show carpenters how to do the door set correctly without using jigs. well done Sir, I salute you..!!!
Thanks for your great comment Errol.🤩
I like the idea of drilling the spindle holes first, but when it comes to the latch plates I like to use a trim router and an 18mm bit to take out the bulk of the material and then clean up with the chisel. (Steady hand) Removes the guess work with trying to achieve plate depth, I've also been experimenting with the Souber Latch Jig. Allows you to drill two 23mm holes overlapping each other for the latch body, it is very square and has a depth stop. Also you don't have to square up the hole afterwards with a chisel.
Great video though, I watch your stuff all the time. Really enjoy the content! Thanks for another one.
Hi there🖐I definitely hear what you're saying about routing out the faceplate, and I've heard many people say how great the Souber jig is👊Thanks for your great comment 🤩Cheers Del
ive always gone 1 meter off the floor but i like the idea of going off the top of the door so theirs no need to square the lines around. i also use a Stanley knife to mark the keeps. ive always used a spade bit to drill the mortice! ill give a auger bit ago now though. another great video 👍🏻.
Hi Tomm. I find that a good quality auger bit tends to hold its line a bit better than a spade bit.👍 Its cool that you knife round the latch plate and keep the same as me.😎 Thanks for watching and your comment.🤩
Another great video. I usually measure from the floor, with multiple doors the handles generally have more chance of lining up, particularly in hallways. I like the way you fix the faceplate on the door, will give that a go. When I use an auger, I clamp a block on the door not to split it. (Particularly cheap doors) I learnt that off my dentist when he drilled my teeth. Always good to watch how others do it. Thanks
Hi Jerry. Your clamping idea is a good one, and fortunately, I don't have many issues with splitting due to pilot drilling.👍 Thanks for your great comment and for watching.😎
@@thetallcarpenter I agree. To be honest, like you I always use a pilot drill but I noticed on those cheap doors ( not supplied by me they can split) maybe a change of drill needed. Your latches are spot on.
Yeah
Where do you clamp the block? I don't get it
@@donaloconnor3352 I wasn’t very clear Donal. Just put a clamp where I drill the lock out. The door becomes a sandwich between the two outer blocks. I hope that clears it up a bit.
Great explanation, I have fitted many of these, but you have shown me how to do it properly now..
Hi Bob. I think it's the proper way, but that doesn't mean it's the best or fastest.👊 (it is quite fast😉). Thanks for your comment. 😎
Great video Del, you manged to make a still image of a door really exciting. Well explained, thanks! I hope to have the time to see your trussed roof video soon, your explanation is spot on.
Thanks for your kind comment Romperstomper.🤩 I've got a small roof truss video coming out soon, and have recently done a trussed roof hip video.😎 Thanks for watching.
@@thetallcarpenter Honestly, you are one of the best youtubers, reacting to all and engaging with us and showing the day to days instead of the specials only. Besides that your direct voice and attention to details makes me aspire to be like that in my builds, which are honestly a bit slower, a bit sloppier then I sometimes hope for (been in this not that long but it is good to have a high standard). Your 40 minute video about the trusses is one I want to see when I am fully awake haha ;). Thanks for sharing and have a great evening!
Good show, always nice to watch a job well done. TIL to measure from the top and drill the holes for the handle first. Combination squares are underrated! I use the corner tip of a chisel to mark outlines.
I like the idea of using a chisel to mark round as it's gonna be super sharp👊You're right about how underrated the combination square is👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Good process and technique using the most basic of tools . Very good instruction 👍
Appreciate your comment Steve🤗and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Just about to fit two latches today
New exactly where to look for the best help !!
😊
That's great Vince😎Hope your latches went well🤞Cheers Del
Love it, Del! My old mortise gauge got pinched in Wrexham's notorious Queen's/Caia Park so I bit the bullet and bough a Veritas (don't ask how much!) wheeled-cutter mortise gauge which I used in place of the Stanley knife up and down the grain - much quicker, much more accurater, much more funner. Excuse the spelling, I'm ill-educated.
Hi Kevin🖐I have seen those marking tools, and they do sound amazing👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Can't whole heartedly recommend them because of price but glad I went there!
Excellent video. Thank-you.
Thanks for watching Paul🤩Cheers Del
i have a very similar technique.. but i definitely picked up a very good tip on measuring the latch depth for the receiver plate.. well done,😀 very good you tube video
Hi Lee🖐It's good to know my methods are similar to yours and others and I'm glad you found something in the video you might find useful🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Served my time as a joiner were about the same age. I always use low tack tape for marking out and always set my router to cut the face plates in then clean the corners for a perfect no gap fit.
Hi Gary🖐That's a great way of marking mate, and saves pencil marks all over the place👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Brilliant, Very Helpful And Informative. Many Thanks For Sharing Your Knowledge.
Thanks for watching🤩and I appreciate your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice simple, clear explanation and demonstration. Looking forward to more 👍
Appreciate your comment Harry.🤩 Thanks for watching.👍
Nice work. I'm 100% not a carpenter but managed to hang 3 doors in our house and fit locks and handles....they look like Jack Nicholson attacked them with an axe 😅
Good on you Keef.🤩 Thanks for your great comment.😆😎
Like your technique mate, have never thought of just using the tape, I've always just squared around....great tip, it's those that help us all. Keep up the great videos, love them.
Thanks for watching bartbug1. 😎 I used to square round aswel but just thought the tape saved a few pencil marks. 👍 Cheers.
Great vid, screwing the faceplate to the door and knifing around it is exactly how I do it, much neater finish that way. I find If u use a 25mm auger u don't have to chisel the corners of the mortice out to take the latch body and the hole is just small enough to be covered by the faceplate
Hi Marc🖐Yeah, it's a great way to get a nice accurately fitting faceplate👊and glad to hear we do it the same🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Very thorough thanks mate. I've made a few notes. It's amazing how many steps there are really. I've done a few in the past but generally messed the order of works up .. Not any more 👍🙏
Hi RG🖐That's ordered I find works best for me bud👊Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Looking good. I had to use a 19mm auger on the door spindle instead of the required 20 as i only own 19,22 and 25mm. The 22 looks look close to the bolt thru fittings on a test piece. So opted for 19mm spindle and 25mm latch body. 👍 I couldn't find the auger size you used in the vid, I may have missed it 👍
@@hedgerowsandzeros I actually use a 22mm auger for the latch body and a 19mm for the spindle hole. I find the a 25mm bit for the latch body is, more or less, the same size as the faceplate, which doesn't leave much room for error😮Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks buddy, I mistyped that, I opted for the 22mm for the body too, can always take more off. Appreciate the help mate 👍
I honestly dont know how you managed to easily square the 22mm latch hole with your 3 quarter chisel. Its always such hard work. I have seen people cut around the latch with a stanley knife but i never had much success doing that way. I thought the work standard was excellent. I have seen your cut and pitch videos and i think very highly of your skillset.
Hi Ian🖐Your comment is very generous and I really enjoy my work which I guess is reflected in its standard🤞Thanks for watching my videos🤩Cheers Del
MEGA SKILLS! Made it look super easy
Hi Garviel. To be fair, it's actually a fairly straight forward job. It's more about how much care you take.😎 Thanks for your comment, as always. 🤩
I use a ply template hang it from top of door . If you have a few to do it’s time saving . Got a corner chisel cuts a right angle quick and easy . Usually I drill the lock out screw the barrel in place mark round it take it out and cut the excess away . Some doors only have a lock block on one side as well . I’ve also got a jig to drill at a perfect 90 degrees . Nowt worse than a wonky mortise .
Hi Colin🖐You're right about jigs bud, and they are definitely worth taking the time to make, especially if you've got a fee to do👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter nowt better than a happy chippy .😂
@@colinjaques9864 👍🤩
Thanks for this. Being a total 3d printer spotter, I have made some router jigs so I don’t have to trust my dodgy hand/eye co-ordination 😊
Hi PP🖐You're in the perfect job for making little jigs then👊Thanks for your comment 🤩 Cheers Del
Fitted loads of these when I was working always with hand tools mainly and agree that those black boxes where a right pain, as well as the tang at 90° on the back of the keep itself. Never could understand what they were for but I admit if I was asked to remedy doors that were rattling I would use pliers to bend these a bit. 😀😎😎
Hi Kevin. I think that's what that 'tang' is actually for🤔if it isn't, it certainly works, as you describe, to stop a rattly door if you bend it out👊Another great comment bud😎Cheers Del
Excellent video; thanks for taking the time to post.
It's my pleasure🤩and thank you for your comment👍Cheers Del
Hi Del nice job these square tubular latches are a pain and seems as if the old round ones are almost nonexistent now every job I get now for hanging doors has these squared ones supplied, I have the new style trend lock jig that will do a rectangular cut out for them so not so bad 👍 great video and technique for fitting the latch & keep.
Hi Rob. Yeah, it used to be that latches would slide straight into a 7/8",(22mm), hole, but as you say, not so much nowadays.😬 Thanks for watching and your comment.😎 Cheers.
Love how you take the time to show how it's done properly. Have you thought about using router jigs when having to do loads of latch and keeps in new builds?
Hi Alex🖐Being a 'general' carpenter, I tend to have kit that can do more than one job, so don't tend to invest in specific bits of kit like that🤔 (plus the vans not big enough to cart it all around in😆) Thanks for your comment 😎Cheers Del
I hate doing doors some really good tips like using combi square for latch location and putting the plate on back to front whilst marking it on the door. I had to pack a few latches with cardboard on my first few doors
Thanks for watching Martin, and hope some of my tips come in handy.😎 Cheers.
I bloody hate them back boxes. I always keep finding them in my pocket when I get home lol 😂. Great video again 👍🏻
Nobody likes them Big Nasty.😵 They do finish the keep off I suppose, but they are a lot of extra work.🤪 Thanks for your comment. 😎
Lazy chippy 🤣🤣🤣
I always fit them looks much nicer than bare wood
Thanks, this is a brilliant instructional video.
It's my pleasure 🙏 and thanks for your kind comment🤩Cheers Del
I’m glad someone else cuts the top and bottom of latch hole with a chisel I don’t understand the manufacturer’s not making a latch that fits and operates in a 22mm hole like the older versions
Hi Paul. Your comment has saved my sanity, as I was sure that latches always used to fit straight into a 7/8" or 22mm hole😲 I just don't like using a 25mm bit as it's the same size as the faceplate👍 Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Fostner bit and some black spray paint those back boxes are a pain !!! Great vid as usual
Hi James. I have, as you hint, just painted the inside of the keep hole with black stain in the past, and it looks great.😎 Cheers.
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you.
My pleasure Alexis🤩Thanks for watching 😎Cheers Del
Aces, best video I've found on this, thanks!
Appreciate your comment bud🤩Cheers Del
Great informative piece of work, nice job, thank you for sharing.
My pleasure Ian.😎 Thanks for watching.
Centre hole drill bit for door hardware is a handy tool to have also. Nothing worse than a pilot bit going off centre when fitting.
Hi Diarmuid. A centre hole drill is something I have NEVER used, and I don't really know why.🤯 I sometimes like to drill my pilot holes off centre to help pull hardware tight to a housing shoulder, but I really do need to get a set of centre hole bits.😎 Thanks for watching.
such a good job. I don't know how many times ive watched it. I need help
Practice makes perfect Garviel😝Cheers Del
Quality job done there. Learned a lot. Going to put your video in to practice. Better check if my chisels are sharp
Hi there🖐That's awesome, and yes, having sharp chisels makes it much easier 😀 Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I make a quick jig for the face plate and route them out with a tiny 3/8 pattern bit from wealden tools. Takes maybe ten mins to make jig then route out a full house worth of latches in seconds. Other reason I route them is I'm not great at chiselling out shallow mortices!
Hi O Bez. That's a really good approach to doing multiple doors and, as you say, the time invested in making a jig is paid back tenfold when actually doing the job.👊 Thanks for watching and your comment.😎
I recall using a bit and spinning it backwards for 8-10 seconds.
That sets the hole exactly where to drill without having to use a center punch.
Hi Jim🖐 I haven't heard of that, but I can see how it would work👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
very neat job
Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
This helped me tonight
That's great Joe🤩Cheers Del
Thanks for this. It was invaluable.
My pleasure Sean🤩Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Them back boxes can stay in the box it came with for me haha
Hi KSLY. They are are a pain to fit, and, as I mentioned, a nicely chiselled out latch socket is usually good enough.😁 Cheers.
With you there
Thanks mate, done mine while watching👍👍
That's great Adam👊We were doing it together😜Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
Great job, very Informative video
Cheers bud👍Thanks for watching😎
Very helpful. One thing: how do you hold the door steady when drilling in the hole for the latch?
Hi there🖐I've got a 35mm cut out in my saw horse that holds the door steady and also let's me sit down to fit the latch🤩Cheers Del
Sharp chisels and bits makes the job that bit easier, another greater video
You know it Darren. I obviously keep my chisels fairly sharp, but I also sharpen my auger bits as well.😎 Thanks for watching mate.👍
Don't forget that its the TC's SKILL too
This has been so helpful, thank you!
That's great CR👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Some really useful tips... thanks
Thanks for watching Alex😎Cheers Del
Brilliant chippie great videos
Thank you Del Boy🤩
Funny what you did with the latch face place fixing it on backwards and cutting round it is exactly what I do. Gets an immaculate finish. Not seen many other guys do it like that
Hi Ross🖐That's wicked that we mark the faceplate the same as it does get it perfect👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the reply 😊. You had any experience with the trend hinge jig? I've got 15 fire doors to hang so was thinking of investing in one.
@@rossmale8715 One MILLION percent get one Ross🤟👊🤟I bought the one price Trend jig a couple of years ago, and it's SO much faster than cutting in butt's by hand👍I did 12 Oak doors last week. Started at 8.30 and finished at 3.30. (with two half hour tea breaks🍵)Very good investment👊
@@thetallcarpenter that's brilliant thanks. Seen so much online but wanted an opinion I could trust. 15 pre finished fire doors with a pair n half hinges. Gonna save a hell of a time
@@rossmale8715 Absolutely will not regret getting one Ross👊
Lovely neat job. I make the mistake of using a slightly wider bit which as you say is too close to the edge of the door.
You're right Jeff about the larger bit, as it can cause problems if its slightly off centre with the face plate housing.😬 Thanks for your comment.😎
I do them almost exactly the same way, I remember when I worked out all on my own as a wee Chappy! 😂 to score around it with a knife, I thought I was a genius 😂 from the old slow draw with pencil and chisel way
The fact the 25 mm bit they tell you to use is TOO BIG always annoyed me!
( the latchmate chisel is a nice bit of kit)
I like a bit of masking tape and a centre line to work of and self cantering drills are a god send.
For the most part we work exactly the same way, are both 1971’rs I think so both around 35 yrs into our apprenticeships, just bloody immature amateurs mate 😜
Seriously I think there’s a maturity that causes a mind shift from ‘this way or the highway! ( I / my company do things the RIGHT WAY! Everyone else is a cowboy!’ Type of mentality ( I’ve been there!!!) to a ‘whatever works and leaves the best job in a timely manner’ mindset…. If it’s faster and better ( no quality reduction). I’m absorbing it into the collective, resistance is futile 😜
You have to be the most actively well rounded carpenter if seen for a while Del, with regards to the different tasks you do, it’s impressive! I usually knock back stuff I haven’t done for ages as it’s uncomfortable and quite slow, maybe particular tools you need are ‘somewhere’ but usually when I man up, need the money or am forced into it, I piss it in and am better at it than I remember being before 😂. Transferring skills, knowledge and mindset is a big part of the craft 👍🏻
( long one sorry😂)
Hi OCS🖐Love the comment bud, and I'm actually of 1969 vintage, so, more or less, the same timespan😉I know you mean about being asked to do a job you haven't done for ages, and your mind making you think you've forgotten how to do it, but like you say, when it comes to the crunch, it's just like getting back on a bike, and once you've completed the job you wonder why you stressed about in the first place🤯Again, great comment bud, and thanks for your support which means a lot coming from a fellow carpenter🤩Cheers Del
Just spent a day fitting doors, but not sure why I’m watching this 🤣, but I do really like your presentation style.
I really don’t like the black boxes/keeps, prefer to see a nice neat cut hole, just another piece of unnecessary plastic in the world!
Hi Darren🖐I think we must all have a screw loose to do this all day and then watch it when we're at home🤪Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers Del
Thanks, mate, very informative and much better (naturally) than my previous efforts. Quick question - what size augur bit do you use for this type of lock, coz I definitely need one. Thanks
Hi Neil🖐I use a 22mm auger bit for the body of the latch👍Glad the video has helped your to improve your latch fitting game👊Cheers Del
Have you got a video of you fitting a round bathroom privacy lock by any chance! Thank you for the video's..very helpful 😊.
I haven't bud😬I'll film the next one I do👍Cheers Del
Thanks for the video. Which chisel sizes would you recommend to get for this type of job.
Hi Aarron🖐I use 15mm wide, (19mm would be fine), and 12mm wide chisels for cutting in latches👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
neat and tidy wouldn't expect any different TC
Cheers chipO wood.🤩
great video very helpful keep em coming
Will do Antony🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Excellent video mate 👍
Thanks for watching Tyler.🤩
Verh neat another great video
Thanks for watching Del Boy😎Cheers
That's how you do it! 😅After 40 years experience, still learning, probably fitted thousands of doors, mainly solid real oak, them chipboard veneered ones are very heavy! 7 stone each, difficult to get up narrow staircase holes!
Hi Andrew🖐You're so right mate, and there is always something new to learn👊And, yeah, lugging heavy doors about is definitely not a highlight of the job😵💫Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Unreal tips here mate cheers keep em coming
Will do Joe.👍 Thanks for watching.😎
Thanks very much fot that! A great explanation
My please🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice job,the only things i do different is at a 1metre i put a light line across the edge of the door and have a square set at 57mm to mark the spindle hole.Havn't explained it very well but it's late lol.
I get you Dave, and have marked the backset the same way in the past.👍 Thanks for your comment.😎
I'm terrified, think I'll try it on the man cave door before I do the lounge. Thanks for the lesson.
Hi there🖐 Just take you're time and I'm sure you'll be fine🤞Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Top job. Keep the videos coming.
Will do Joseph.👍 Thanks for watching.😎
Great job, thanks for sharing
My pleasure Sal Tui 🤩 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Adjustable catches are literally my favourite thing in the whole world.
Alot of my work is new doors in old wacky frames.
Nothing worse than looking like a wood butcher when you get the old style catches a mm wrong and the door won't shut or it does but there's that annoying rattle and you have to try move it very slightly one way or the other.
Hi Kallum🖐You're right bud, and those little adjustable tabs are really cool for getting the door to close just right against the stops👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
As a fairly experienced door hanger, my personal top tip, especially with new linings and doors that are going to be painted, is fit the catch and adjust the tab with your flathead about a mm or two more than you want to before you tack on the stops.
That way it can be adjusted back if the paint ends up thick enough to prevent the latch from catching.
It's better than the Robin clevitt method of setting the stops back the thickness of a credit card.
Which I have tried
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 Interesting Kallum 🤔 And its easy to forget about the thickness of 3 coats of paint😬I always set the stops back a mil or so on the hanging side, and on the flapping side, I nail the stops tight to the door about a foot from the top and a foot from the bottom, and then just pull the handle slightly so it pushes the door stop back a mil or so, before pinning the rest of it. This gives a a bit of tolerance for paint at the latching point, but also puts slight tension on the door, top and bottom edges which stops it from rattling👊Cheers Del
Hi Dell, great job as always. I have always used a router plane to recess my face plates/keeps or receivers. Found it to be a great way to get an accurate depth every time minus the mess when using an electric router.
If you were doing this on a rebated door frame, how would you deminstrate how to use a router on the keeps?
Cheers
Hi Dan🖐I'm not sure you could easily use a router for the keeps on a rebated frame without knocking up some sort of jig🤔Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter hi, ja I usually make an mdf packer the same thickness as the rebate and have a cut out for the keep or hinge and use double sided tape to attach it.
@@danthechippie4439 Sounds spot on Dan👌
hi Del
do you recommend auger bits for drilling out locks / latches on oak doors
minefield with so many different wood drill bits on the market
fab videos mate
Hi Gareth🖐I like auger bits, but they can be a bit aggressive, so many people prefer flat bits 👍Cheers Del
Thanks for a very instructional video. Do you use the same augur bit for spindle and latch holes, if so, can you tell me what size please?
Hi there🖐I use an 18mm for the spindle and a 22mm for the latch body👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks Del. Could I get away with using a 20mm for both?
@@michaelalbert9299 You could on the spindle hole, but not on the latch body hole😬without doing a lot of extra chiselling😶
Thought as much. Thanks!
Top job as always 👍🏻
Cheers John. 😎
Great video. Thanks!
Cheers CB🤩
Great job
Hope to see your escutcheons next time...
Hi Tim. Funny you should say that, but the escutcheons for the bathroom locks were an absolute NIGHTMARE to get to work with the privacy locks.😩 (I nearly threw my toys out of the pram😆) Thanks for watching.😎
Thought you would have a souber lock kit. Can very highly recommend them.
I think I'm stuck in the past David.😬 I haven't seen one of those Souber kits in the flesh, but I hear they are pretty cool.😎 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter they are good mate, i would say you could do three locks or latches to one done by hand. Had mine a few years now and it payed for itself on one barn full of doors. You should look into it mate.
Keep up the good work buddy.
@@davidbrooks8038 You're not helping David.😣 My wish list of tools is supposed to be getting shorter not longer😆 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter love your content/ channel. Get the souber. Makes life alot easier. Hello from Dublin. You are a great chippie .👍
@@garymaguire7778 Hi Gary. The Souber has been mentioned a few times so will check it out.😎 Cheers
What size drill bits do I need ?
Cabinet maker , doing some 2nd fix tomorrow, freaking out a bit 😅I’ve only got small bits
Hi there🖐 I use 19mm for the spindle hole and 22mm for the latch body👍Cheers Del
Thanks mate 👍
My pleasure🤩Cheers Del
Great video thanks. I’m a complete. novice. How might I convert an internal utility door to a simple mortise lock please? Do you have such a video? My goal is to then jnsert a switchbot on the other side.
Hi Al🖐A mortice lock should, more or less, fit in the same hole/cut out as a mortice latch👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter well that’s great thanks. Your tutorial was so complete even I will have a bash at this. Thanks so much for your absolutely professional video
What type of drill bit is that! I've tried a flat one and another one which cut jabbed when it was deep in the door. Yours looks it clears out the did debris as you drill. Wouldn't mind getting one but can't find one so need to know name of type of bit. Thanks
Also, I have found that no matter how I measure where the strike plate should go from where the latch sits on the door frame, it never is quite in the right place and if I drill pilot and fix strike plate, it is really hard to move it that 1-2 mm to ensure snug fit with no rattle. I have taken to fixing strike plate in place with sellotape (I know, amateur) and moving slightly until good fit with closing door before finally fixing strike plate in correct position. It's probably just lacking experience as I'm just a DIY guy learning.
This is the kind of drill I use. Just make sure to put a small, (3mm), pilot drill in first so the screw on the auger bit doesn't split the door👍
www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Auger-Wood-Drill-Bit---22-x-210mm/p/168647
I know it can be tricky getting the latch plate in the right place so the door doesn't rattle when hanging doors in linings that already have the stops on, and if your sellotape method is working for you, I'd STICK with that😉 (excuse the pun😆) Cheers Del
Great video, many thanks :)
Thanks for watching Emil🤩Cheers Del
Lovely Finnish made it look so simple
Cheers, and thanks for watching.😎