I bought a property that came with three trucks. A bobbed deuce, a 6x6 deuce, and a 5T. I got the 6x6 running and sold and now I'm working on the bobber. It's running and cranks fine but it has no throttle. The throttle linkage works and moves back and forth but there's no change in the RPM so no fuel getting to the motor through the throttle. I can't find any information or video of anyone having this problem. What am I missing? And yes, I know that's a little bit of a loaded question with probably a really long answer. Keep up the good work! Your videos have been vital in me getting these trucks going!!
Something inside the governor is either stuck, broken, or disconnected. Send me an email and we'll try to diagnose it together. Tacriflesmith1@gmail.com
First off your videos are very helpful! 2nd before watch all of this video I jumped right in and pulled the fuel shutoff mechanism out and it was froze up. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. Everything went together fine as far as I know except I didn’t note the orientation of the tit. It took some side to side movement but eventually everything slid into place. So I think. The truck started right up and ran great. But when I give it a rip and it idles back down it gets real low on rpm’s and dies. The governor rod is pulling the shutoff into the kill position. All I have to do is touch it and it snaps back to start position. Any idea what my issue could be? Governor? Or is my orientation of the fuel shutoff incorrect?
I'm really new at this stuff and this might be a stupid question. I'm assuming that the varnish develops as the parts sit and are not being used. Will the same happen if your running you vehicle regularly? And is there anything that can be added to the fuel to prolong or prevent the breakdown? Thanks again.
T j if the truck is being used regularly this won't happen. There are fuel stabilizers that extend fuel life, but that isn't the issue here. The problem is these parts sit without moving for too long and it allows varnish to accumulate on the parts. As long as the parts are moved every month or two, this won't happen. Start the truck and run it for a few minutes once in a while, and the fuel can be completely rotten and it'll still run.
I’m having a problem when I put the shut off back on and hooked the Govenor rod up it snaps back from the back of the pump how far will it travel towards the front mine stops at about 6:00 thank you Steve Scott
I have a 1966 ford 3 cylinder tractor with a bad injector pump , (simms) I have to rebuild it. What I want to know how , if I pump fuel in the intake will it run.? Thanks.
No, it will hydro lock the engine and permanently damage internal components. You can soak a rag in gasoline and put it in the air filter housing though. That will run it for a short time.
Hey if you get this my hh is fine but the rod that goes from the governor to hh is really tight and in turn I can move the throttle and it dose not do anything do you have a Video of you working with the governor side
Yeah, look in my playlists and look through my multifuel injection pump videos. There's one on replacing the throttle shaft seal that shows what you need. Honestly though, something is broken in there if you're having that problem. May as well take it to a shop.
Pull your valve covers and see if any of your valve lash adjusters came loose and backed off. If they did, the valves simply couldn't open anymore so it couldn't draw air or push exhaust. Literally was talking to another guy that just happened to this morning.
Hey man my hydraulic head the little pumper inside it is moving up and down and fuel is coming out of the hole but I cant get fuel in the lines to the injectors
hey bud is there a way to free up a sticky fuel shut off plunger. mine keeps sticking and i really dont want to open it up. been spraying it with lube but thats about it
@@johndowe7003 run the truck off a 50/50 mixture of transmission fluid and fresh diesel fuel. For a while. Cheapest transmission fluid I know of it like $12/ gallon at Wal-Mart.
ok ill do that because right now its mostly motor oil and atf cut with a little bit of diesel, i put a can of that diesel cleen, (the grey bottle) not sure if it would make a difference but i threw it in the mix too. the truck runs great, i just have to push the plunger back in every time i restart it. would you be interested in selling me a good alternator for my truck? mine doesnt charge at all so i was looking at the delco style 24v ones but im not sure..
@@tacticalrepair I will never forget you Garret you will always leave an impression on many Military vehicle owners. I will always look in now and then to see what's going on and how your doing. I wish you great success.
I just bought a 1968 M35A. Started fine when I bought it. Drove it 50 miles now when I start it it wants to rev really high. That a sign of a bad injector pump? Kid I bought it from said it needs the tank cleaned and new fuel filters. Not sure what the issue is. It’s a multi fuel of course and I know he was running shit oil cut with some gas.
Thanks for this video man ur alot of help thanks
I bought a property that came with three trucks. A bobbed deuce, a 6x6 deuce, and a 5T. I got the 6x6 running and sold and now I'm working on the bobber. It's running and cranks fine but it has no throttle. The throttle linkage works and moves back and forth but there's no change in the RPM so no fuel getting to the motor through the throttle. I can't find any information or video of anyone having this problem. What am I missing? And yes, I know that's a little bit of a loaded question with probably a really long answer. Keep up the good work! Your videos have been vital in me getting these trucks going!!
Something inside the governor is either stuck, broken, or disconnected. Send me an email and we'll try to diagnose it together. Tacriflesmith1@gmail.com
so my truck has the problem of it full revs as soon as it starts. starts and runs fine but full send. any advise where to look, clean first?
What oil is best
First off your videos are very helpful! 2nd before watch all of this video I jumped right in and pulled the fuel shutoff mechanism out and it was froze up. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. Everything went together fine as far as I know except I didn’t note the orientation of the tit. It took some side to side movement but eventually everything slid into place. So I think. The truck started right up and ran great. But when I give it a rip and it idles back down it gets real low on rpm’s and dies. The governor rod is pulling the shutoff into the kill position. All I have to do is touch it and it snaps back to start position. Any idea what my issue could be? Governor? Or is my orientation of the fuel shutoff incorrect?
You probably just still have some air in the system. Really common. Just gotta run it.
I'm really new at this stuff and this might be a stupid question. I'm assuming that the varnish develops as the parts sit and are not being used. Will the same happen if your running you vehicle regularly? And is there anything that can be added to the fuel to prolong or prevent the breakdown? Thanks again.
T j if the truck is being used regularly this won't happen. There are fuel stabilizers that extend fuel life, but that isn't the issue here. The problem is these parts sit without moving for too long and it allows varnish to accumulate on the parts. As long as the parts are moved every month or two, this won't happen. Start the truck and run it for a few minutes once in a while, and the fuel can be completely rotten and it'll still run.
throw a few cans of engine cleaner in it or few gallons of atf mwhahah should get the varnish off after running it for a bit
Thanks John
I’m having a problem when I put the shut off back on and hooked the Govenor rod up it snaps back from the back of the pump how far will it travel towards the front mine stops at about 6:00 thank you Steve Scott
Should go to about 7:00
I have a 1966 ford 3 cylinder tractor with a bad injector pump , (simms) I have to rebuild it. What I want to know how , if I pump fuel in the intake will it run.? Thanks.
No, it will hydro lock the engine and permanently damage internal components.
You can soak a rag in gasoline and put it in the air filter housing though. That will run it for a short time.
Hey if you get this my hh is fine but the rod that goes from the governor to hh is really tight and in turn I can move the throttle and it dose not do anything do you have a Video of you working with the governor side
Yeah, look in my playlists and look through my multifuel injection pump videos. There's one on replacing the throttle shaft seal that shows what you need.
Honestly though, something is broken in there if you're having that problem. May as well take it to a shop.
I had a run away but engine shut down on its own after 2 minutes. Any idea why .? Inline zexel pump
Pull your valve covers and see if any of your valve lash adjusters came loose and backed off. If they did, the valves simply couldn't open anymore so it couldn't draw air or push exhaust.
Literally was talking to another guy that just happened to this morning.
i have the no start issue, i pulled off the fuel stop cover and found 9 ball bearings lying in that cover ? any ideas
A bearing came apart inside your pump. 98% chance everything inside the pump is junk now. Best to look for a replacement.
Hey man my hydraulic head the little pumper inside it is moving up and down and fuel is coming out of the hole but I cant get fuel in the lines to the injectors
Then the button fell off.
Any chance you could go into detail on the rest of the pump assy. No one ever talks about the gear pump or fdc or fuel turn up .
If you look back at some of my earliest videos, there are some on those things.
Tactical Repair thanks for the response I'll check them out.
hey bud is there a way to free up a sticky fuel shut off plunger. mine keeps sticking and i really dont want to open it up. been spraying it with lube but thats about it
@@johndowe7003 run the truck off a 50/50 mixture of transmission fluid and fresh diesel fuel. For a while. Cheapest transmission fluid I know of it like $12/ gallon at Wal-Mart.
ok ill do that because right now its mostly motor oil and atf cut with a little bit of diesel, i put a can of that diesel cleen, (the grey bottle) not sure if it would make a difference but i threw it in the mix too. the truck runs great, i just have to push the plunger back in every time i restart it. would you be interested in selling me a good alternator for my truck? mine doesnt charge at all so i was looking at the delco style 24v ones but im not sure..
Should there be oil in there when you take the cover off?
Yes there should be oil, not fuel .
@@tacticalrepair I will never forget you Garret you will always leave an impression on many Military vehicle owners.
I will always look in now and then to see what's going on and how your doing.
I wish you great success.
What about the delivery valve in spring? I’m missing my spring and looking for another one.
@@stlheckstyle17 you'll have to get one from someone that has an old hydraulic head that's no good anymore. Those parts aren't available separately.
Im stuck for few parts for a psb4a pump
Any idea where i might get a parts list
Should be in the TM for the pump.
@@tacticalrepair TM for the pump???
Is there any way I could call u and talk to u about it
I just bought a 1968 M35A. Started fine when I bought it. Drove it 50 miles now when I start it it wants to rev really high. That a sign of a bad injector pump? Kid I bought it from said it needs the tank cleaned and new fuel filters. Not sure what the issue is. It’s a multi fuel of course and I know he was running shit oil cut with some gas.
Not a bad pump, just the fuel lever sticking. Clean it up like I show in some of my videos here and you'll be fine.
how is the continual engine
In my opinion they were the best built ones.
Wd-40 any good
I like Kroil. Wd-40 has never given me results I'm happy with.