The fan is set to exhaust air upwards since you can see the intake side of the fan. As hot air rises, this means the fan is working with natural airflow rather than against it. Great video, thanks!
You deserve every like and subscriber you have and more. Simply the best at in depth reviews and impressions. I have purchased items you have reviewed and found your input invaluable and spot on accurate. Thank You for what you do better than anyone else!
32:47 "There isn't anything I have ever seen that didn't have something I didn't like about it". Explains the awesome rig in the garage, combined with the lack of a wedding ring. Good man! Great review, as always!
Incredible. This review is so comprehensive and informed that I feel VERY confident in purchasing this unit for a beginner budget build. Thank you for giving me the confidence to commit to this hardware!
29:50 Looking at the 3 big resistors on the edge of the board, and how the wires go into the motor, I'm pretty sure that's a brushless motor, and the position sensor is used for high precision commutation feedback into the controller. In case you're wondering, that's a very Good Thing(tm).
That slotted wheel with a sensor is called an Optical Encoder Wheel. Old Ball mice used these to tell which way the mouse ball (and therefore the mouse) was moving. They are very sensitive to dust and dirt.
Okay, this guy is so thorough and presents the appearance that he is very knowledgeable (not a slight at all, I don’t know enough about these wheels to say for sure, but I believe he knows what he’s doing)… So the logical question here is... WWDBU (What Wheel Does Barry Use)?
Barry, a couple points: The fan is an exhaust... Pulling cool air from the back and bottom to blow the warm air out the top. Second, the position sensor on the brushless motor is so the motor knows where it is and doesn't overdrive the wheel. Solid work though.
Thinks for this. My wheel has been losing its center after driving for a while and I think this is the sensor that needs to be cleaned or hopefully not replaced.
I really appreciated your in depth explanation of the disassembly. Knowing those tiny front plate screws were 2.5 hex helped a lot. The explanation of how the sensor works also helped me diagnose a problem with my base. Thanks Barry!
Marco Maas When powered up, the mode light would flash red and the wheel wouldn’t make its full rotation and complete start up. I took the base apart and sprayed compressed around the optical sensor and the disc with the slots in it. Success!
One feature that stands out on this wheel that wasn't referenced directly, is its ability to tune independent of the game or console. I play a lot of GT Sport and it has literally no adjustment to the FFB outside of two sliders. The Fanatec method of adjusting the wheel base and particularly the brakes (with the load cell setup) come in extremely handy for applications like mine. I would prefer a little more finite adjustment on some settings (10 points out of 100 is the norm) but the available adjustment is welcome as it is.
I know this videos not up to the second new, but for anyone who cares the wheel description on site now says.. "Wheel rim covered with genuine Alcantara® and an eye-catching red cross-stitched seam" I gotta say, I came for a basic review, and got so much more!
Hello Barry, do you maybe know if this officially licensed PS4 product that comes with the PS4 wheel as you show us. Does it play on Xbox? Are the wheels the same for Xbox and PS4? With a difference of the buttons.?. This specific wheel. Thank you in advance.
Antony Paloubis So if you are asking this to determine which platform CSL Elite to get, I would highly recommend the PS4 wheel as it is compatible immediately with PS4 and PC and if you attach any one of Fanatec’s Xbox wheel rims it will be compatible with Xbox as well. The PS4 CSL Elite is the most versatile CSL Elite. Good luck!
Can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge with clueless folks like me. You're my go-to source for all things sim racing. Any and all future products I buy will be thoroughly vetted by you before I even consider adding them to my setup. Thanks again, Barry... you da man!
I've had my CSL Elite for about 2 years now, and I still am very satisfied with the product overall. As I ended up getting my dad into sim racing, we now have identical Fanatec rigs.
My base has pretty bad deadzone or slack when steering left to right, and does generate loud clacking noise and "empty hollow FFB" when driving over kerbs etc. Can't use higher than FEI 30 @@eljorge225
Position sensor on the motor because its brushless, a brushed motor will rotate different directions based on + or - V, brushless can rotate in either direction on both so the software needs to know what direction it is turning to regulate the voltage for correct FFB direction
Really enjoyed your in depth review of this Fanatec elite system! Really helped me out in deciding in upgrading my current system. I'm going to make the jump! Thank you! Keep up the good work!
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I had to RMA this wheelbase because of a faulty USB port, and it returned with the belt off, and thanks for showing how to get this fixed
My CSL elite stopped working .... I used this review to take it apart and clean off the belt a bit not expecting anything and put it back together. It started up 😆! I would probably go crazy without my driving break during Covid !! Thank you 😊
Have been running mine hard for nearly 3 years now and it still works great. Got it used and abused for a great price. Have never serviced it and always runs at a high FFB setting. Bought it right before they announced the CSL DD but still don't regret my purchase. My old Logitech G29 would overheat from long drift or rally sessions and felt like a cheap toy by comparison.
hey , just wanted to say i appreciate what you do in these vids.. i just visited your web page and read through your "about" bio on your web page..really appreciate where you are coming from , as not trying to sell me stuff and letting me decide..and for that i will be in contact for some consultation.. its just to big a market out there with many unknown products .. im just a musician who loves to to sim race..so thanks for these vids they are very helpful to me and many others as well....so ya right on talks soon when im ready for my upgrades (got a thrustmaster entry due to both your reviews on the logitech and thrustmaster..very insightful..)im just discovering the satisfaction of sim racing . awesome..
just slot the motor mounting holes, then you can adjust the belt tension easily. The motor sensor is feedback to the brushless motor controller (so it can give good torque at zero rpm and low rpm), not for feedback to the game. Good review.
Got mine for couple of months now. Really love it and the sensation of driving is really good. To be fair I don’t have much reference to any other wheelbase. I mean I tried a G29 and was not that impressed back then. That’s why I went with a more premium wheelbase. But had no problem with the wheelbase and still loving it. This thing plus VR is really immersive. I’m planning to build a full sim rig once I move into a bigger apartment.
Yeah I bought one.. Thanks for the review! Big upgrade for my motion sim from the 'Logitech driving force' wheel I bought in 2010. I really like it and it seems to work for me! DMAX
Thank you Barry now i have seen the insides of my wheel base 👍 🏁 now waiting you to review the Fanatec csl elite McLaren gt3 wheel. It is next on my shopping list 😁
37:47 I think that the flex problem is solved, I got this wheel 2 weeks ago and there is no flex whats so ever if you tight very well the screw connecting to the base
Great review as always! My CSL Elite wheel base (non ps4) gets pretty loud under load. Wondering if I can replace the 92mm (I think) fan with a 120mm quiet fan.
The fan is 70mm. You can put 120mm fan but not inside the base: www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-csl-elite-racing-wheel-thread-officially-licensed-for-ps4.356268/page-48#post-12298332
The motor inside the wheel does not output 6Nm I'm very sure. The wheel output from the wheelbase output shaft could be 6Nm but the electric motor itself outputs a lot less. The 6Nm output torque from the base is achieved with the drivetrain which in this case is the pulley gears which has a ratio something like between 1:5 and 1:7 (quick eye estimation from the video). Which means the motor torque is between 6Nm /5 or 6Nm/7. Which is about 1Nm.
K.G We can theoretically do it to nigh infinite ratios with enough gears, the problem becomes that the gearing will slow down the rotation. With a 1:6 ratio for every 6 rotations of the electric motor the other end will rotate once. This means that eventually you'll start running into issues with motor acceleration times, top rpm speeds, consistency, reaction times to varying inputs, etc. This is why the best wheelbases used today are direct drive, with absolutely no gearing in between the motor and the user, to get maximum accuracy and controllability on the forces, but you need a really strong motor to really make use of that.
It is the same principle as the gearbox in your road car. In smaller gears (1 and 2) the gearbox multiplies the torque but speed is reduced. Total gear ratio is something like 1:16 altogether. At high gears the there is less torque at rear wheels but they can rotate faster, ratio being 1:4 or so. The equation for gearboxes is power in = power out. Little power is lose inside the transmission but we don't care about that. And power = rpm * torque. In other words with gears you can adjust how much torque you get from power but you can't change your torque without changing your rotation speed. So if you change the gear ratio to 1:6 your speed is decreased by 6 but your torque is increased by 6x. But power stays the same so power = rpm * torque = 6*torque * 1/6*speed. Now 1/6 times 6 is 1. The reason why fanatec belt wheels used to have two belts is because the bigger gear grows too big if you try to do big gear ratios with one pair of belt gears. If you want something like 1:10 ratio the bigger gear needs to be x10 the size of the small gear. If your smaller gear is 2.5cm or one inch your bigger gear needs to be 25cm or 10inches in diameter to get a 1:10 ratio (10x the size). Can't fit 25cm or 10inch gear inside the wheel very easily! And with belt gears you can not make the smaller gear very small because it start slipping. So they use two sets of gears. Total gear ratio here is = ratio1 x ratio2. With two 1:5 gear ratios you get 1:25 total gear ratio. Logitech can do it in one pair of gears in their g29 because they use plastic gears. With plastic gears the smaller gears on motor can be really small. I think the g29 motor gears are something like 1cm or 2/5 inches. On 1:10 ratio this makes the bigger gear only 10cm or 4 inches. But with plastic gears the gears may also break so you can not put too much torque through those small gears. Which is one of the reasons why logitech uses two motors. Less load on those gears and they still get their big gear ratio. The big gear ratio helps with the torque. If logitech wheels can output something like 2 newtonmeters of torque and their gear ratio inside the wheel is say 1:15 then the torque of each of those motors is 2Nm / 2 /15 = 0.07Nm. However if you were to take those gear ratios and use your 30Nm direct drive monster servo your output torque could be 450Nm. 900Nm if you put in two servos. Needless to say those plastic gears would break instantly you turn it on. Thrustmaster uses smaller motors than fanatec (generally) so thrustmaster needs bigger gear ratio than fanatec. And thrustmaster use belt gears and because they can't do big ratios in one pair of gears for reasons mentioned above they use two sets of belt gears. But in all cases the electric motor torque is far less than the number the wheelbase can output. It is not wrong or misleading marketing. It is just how physics work.
As almost all makers of fake-leather do, they put a smell of real leather on it to make people think its the real thing. So the ''snifftest'' isn't realy a way to determine if it is the real thing or not ;) Good video, cool voice, keep it up!
I hear you. I got a g29 with shifter for $325. It's all plastic and felt pretty cheap to me and was going to return it and get a t300 or this wheel. After watching reviews on both they're all plastic and cheap looking so now I don't know what to do...
Molon Labe this is their cheapest wheel. I had the g920, thrustmaster tx, and now the fanatec v2.5 with the bmw wheel. Fanatec is by far the best with so much tuning in the wheel that is soo important. Also a lot more feel of the road and car
Před 4 lety+6
@Tom Watson T300 is a liability. Seems like 50% breakdown rate withing the first year if you believe reviews.
I think the use of the shaft behind the motor is to act as a sensor for the motor itself... I think that the motor is a sensored bldc.. hence the need for the sensors... There will be varied resistance.. so a sensorless bldc will likely suffer if there's too much resistance.. but a sensored bldc knows how to counter the torque without "skipping" from a false control signal from the controller...
Great review thx! Haven't you experienced a 'metalish' clunk sound when turning hard under pressure? Maybe I should also open the wheelbase and check if all screws are tightent well.
I have the exact same problem after only a few weeks. Did you ever find out what was causing it? I have the same problem: czcams.com/video/NoHwWpAyx_4/video.html
There’s some out there just do a quick google search. Force feed back seems to be the biggest discussion. Would be great if he could give us a baseline. Just ordered this setup, curious to see if there are any changes....
Great review...I have one Fanatec CSL Elite and i think it, very good for the price. But let me ask something...how do you remove de Fanatec logo from the formula carbon racing wheel? I want to remove the mine too. Thanks
Barry, I only play NASCAR Games (currently NASCAR Heat 4) on PS4 and I'm considering purchasing this wheel and the pedals. I currently use a Logitech G29. In your opinion, is this an upgrade and is the Brake pedal that comes with the 2 pedal set sufficient?
I know this is an old review but it bugs me so here goes: This is not a 6nm motor, that would be what wheel rim shaft can provide with pulley advantage. My guess is that motor is about 1nm or just under. But i really enjoy your reviews, no one dives as deep as you.
Love your channel. Just got the G923, a bit disappointed, but would be curious to hear what you think of it. I will be getting the Fanatec CSL Elite in a few months, and passing on the G923 to my nephew.
In pCars 2 I'm using raw with about 100/70/90/40 values in about all cars with my Accuforce. High tone values let me feel the tyre slip unlike in any other title and the steering corrections very similar to real onboards. When I loose the car, I know always why, but don't happen that often. "Reading" the FFB respectively getting used to it is always key for sure and in some cars I miss the roughness of rF2 FFB or road noise like in iRacing, but Simvibe is better here in pCars 2. If any motion system can compensate Simvibe it's yours, but I doubt it can. The speed of sound is always faster and the vibrations are key to feel seat of pants effects in real life as well as Simracing. Hans Joachim Stuck said, he was driving without seat-padding to feel the car better and was successful with that like in the Audi GTO.
Hi Barry and everyone else; I hope you could do a 1-1 comparison between this model (v1.1) and the more advanced 2.5 Is it worth the additional 200€??? Thanks
Really good stuff. Just wondering you didn't mention what force feedback settings you were using on the ps4 project cars 2. Even with FEI set to 0 you still get quite a few clipping ... a force feedback video would be amazing
Hey @Sim Racing Garage thanks for another disassembly video :D Isn't there is too much plastic inside for the price they ask for it? Considering the amount of it, looks like a Thrustmaster wheel for me. Also I want to point out that fan inside the case is pulling air OUT because they usually blow towards the hub, meaning that it creates negative pressure inside and pulls fresh air through honey-cone looking back grill.
Like owner of all TM wheels without T-GT and owner of this Fanatec wheel - gotta say that there is nothing common between them outside and inside! The functions here are Epic! After releasing the CSL Elite GT3 Mc Laren rim - OMG!:)
What sort of maintenance would be needed? Mine just died after 2,5 years, power to it at all, the power brick does give a blue light. I'm checking what I can do to revive it.
My problem with the Fanatec setup is, for a little more money you can buy an Accuforce Pro direct drive setup. This wheel is $510 shipped. Accuforce is $700 (not sure about shipping) I'm not rich enough to afford either, so I pay $300 for Thrustmaster and get a wheel AND pedals.
@@SIMRIG412 you obviously did not look at the website... AccuForce Pro V2 'Your Way' Steering System Kit is $699 all the time. I have wheels to use already.
Having recently acquired one of these, my main complaint would be that when the fan kicks into high speed, I can feel the small, high-frequency vibrations of it through the wheel. It is quite distracting. Since the fan is easily accessible, I shall experiment with some kind of shock-mounting of the fan to absorb those little vibrations.
The Bob Ross of Sim Racing.
Good one!
So true
You nailed it
Except he isn’t dead
Stupid 🤦🏽♂️😂😂😂😂
I was twenty-eight minutes in when I suddenly realised that this is one take. Correct me if I'm wrong but you, my friend, know your shit.
33:30 probably one of the best heel toe action ive ever seen 😂
The fan is set to exhaust air upwards since you can see the intake side of the fan. As hot air rises, this means the fan is working with natural airflow rather than against it. Great video, thanks!
You deserve every like and subscriber you have and more. Simply the best at in depth reviews and impressions. I have purchased items you have reviewed and found your input invaluable and spot on accurate. Thank You for what you do better than anyone else!
32:47 "There isn't anything I have ever seen that didn't have something I didn't like about it". Explains the awesome rig in the garage, combined with the lack of a wedding ring. Good man! Great review, as always!
Incredible. This review is so comprehensive and informed that I feel VERY confident in purchasing this unit for a beginner budget build. Thank you for giving me the confidence to commit to this hardware!
500€ beginner budget and thats only the the racing wheel...
So did you buy it? What do you think a year later?
This is the type of in-depth finger-tip analysis that you can't find in web articles. Really, truly excellent.
29:50 Looking at the 3 big resistors on the edge of the board, and how the wires go into the motor, I'm pretty sure that's a brushless motor, and the position sensor is used for high precision commutation feedback into the controller. In case you're wondering, that's a very Good Thing(tm).
That slotted wheel with a sensor is called an Optical Encoder Wheel. Old Ball mice used these to tell which way the mouse ball (and therefore the mouse) was moving. They are very sensitive to dust and dirt.
As many Fanatec users have since found out, I'm sure.
Thank YOU!!! I opened up mine and saw it’s broken 😢😢 I need a new one…
This guy is brilliant at these reviews.
Okay, this guy is so thorough and presents the appearance that he is very knowledgeable (not a slight at all, I don’t know enough about these wheels to say for sure, but I believe he knows what he’s doing)… So the logical question here is...
WWDBU (What Wheel Does Barry Use)?
Barry, a couple points: The fan is an exhaust... Pulling cool air from the back and bottom to blow the warm air out the top. Second, the position sensor on the brushless motor is so the motor knows where it is and doesn't overdrive the wheel.
Solid work though.
Thinks for this. My wheel has been losing its center after driving for a while and I think this is the sensor that needs to be cleaned or hopefully not replaced.
I really appreciated your in depth explanation of the disassembly. Knowing those tiny front plate screws were 2.5 hex helped a lot. The explanation of how the sensor works also helped me diagnose a problem with my base. Thanks Barry!
What kind of problem did you have? And could you fix it?
Marco Maas When powered up, the mode light would flash red and the wheel wouldn’t make its full rotation and complete start up. I took the base apart and sprayed compressed around the optical sensor and the disc with the slots in it. Success!
@@shadyhawklive Good to know this! I also like to open things after warranty has ended.
The fan blows out through the top
Twenty one pilots in your profile.....Noice !!😁
What you don't know is that once taken apart Barry never puts things back together again. #wheelabuser
Gamer muscle you naughty self promoter.
GamerMuscleVideos maybe i can get some spare parts?
I heard that Barry is so good at putting stuff back together that he's got bits left over
Lol!
Barry could take out Chuck Norris with just a ferrite core.
One feature that stands out on this wheel that wasn't referenced directly, is its ability to tune independent of the game or console. I play a lot of GT Sport and it has literally no adjustment to the FFB outside of two sliders. The Fanatec method of adjusting the wheel base and particularly the brakes (with the load cell setup) come in extremely handy for applications like mine. I would prefer a little more finite adjustment on some settings (10 points out of 100 is the norm) but the available adjustment is welcome as it is.
Best reviews for sim racing. I''m a total noob with sim racing but I'm learning so much from your channel. Thanks for the awesome videos!
I know this videos not up to the second new, but for anyone who cares the wheel description on site now says..
"Wheel rim covered with genuine Alcantara® and an eye-catching red cross-stitched seam"
I gotta say, I came for a basic review, and got so much more!
finally someone cracked
the csl elite base. nice job barry
your channel is a gold mine sir
We need to get AvE one of these things. The "tear down" was great.
Hello Barry, do you maybe know if this officially licensed PS4 product that comes with the PS4 wheel as you show us. Does it play on Xbox? Are the wheels the same for Xbox and PS4? With a difference of the buttons.?. This specific wheel. Thank you in advance.
Antony Paloubis So if you are asking this to determine which platform CSL Elite to get, I would highly recommend the PS4 wheel as it is compatible immediately with PS4 and PC and if you attach any one of Fanatec’s Xbox wheel rims it will be compatible with Xbox as well. The PS4 CSL Elite is the most versatile CSL Elite. Good luck!
Skookim
Dude that fan is extracting :P Nice video by the way, Very thorough.
Can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge with clueless folks like me.
You're my go-to source for all things sim racing. Any and all future products I buy will be thoroughly vetted by you before I even consider adding them to my setup.
Thanks again, Barry... you da man!
I've had my CSL Elite for about 2 years now, and I still am very satisfied with the product overall. As I ended up getting my dad into sim racing, we now have identical Fanatec rigs.
Does your wheel a lot of noise when you play with 100% force feedback?
My base has pretty bad deadzone or slack when steering left to right, and does generate loud clacking noise and "empty hollow FFB" when driving over kerbs etc. Can't use higher than FEI 30 @@eljorge225
Al-can-tara😉 love the great videos👍 keep up the awesome work! Top notch all around👌
love your reviews! but Al-Karta made me smile :)
SRG is the first place I go when I'm considering a piece of kit. Barry you rock.
Position sensor on the motor because its brushless, a brushed motor will rotate different directions based on + or - V, brushless can rotate in either direction on both so the software needs to know what direction it is turning to regulate the voltage for correct FFB direction
Even though I've been watching the t300rs review which I own, it's very interesting to see such quality reviews!
Really enjoyed your in depth review of this Fanatec elite system! Really helped me out in deciding in upgrading my current system. I'm going to make the jump! Thank you! Keep up the good work!
thanks to this review I've just updated my order from a regular base to the PS4 version!
You have such a golden voice Barry!
True. Was thinking so myself.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I had to RMA this wheelbase because of a faulty USB port, and it returned with the belt off, and thanks for showing how to get this fixed
Getting mine Tomorrow so exicited ^^
So, 4 months later... How do you like it? :D
Couple of months till I can buy one.. Gosh I want it so bad
Great review as always a pleasure to watch and listen!
The fan is actually pushing up not down. So it works in aiding the natural convection of air.
As usual a very well done review Barry.
My CSL elite stopped working .... I used this review to take it apart and clean off the belt a bit not expecting anything and put it back together. It started up 😆! I would probably go crazy without my driving break during Covid !! Thank you 😊
Awesome work!
Have been running mine hard for nearly 3 years now and it still works great. Got it used and abused for a great price. Have never serviced it and always runs at a high FFB setting. Bought it right before they announced the CSL DD but still don't regret my purchase.
My old Logitech G29 would overheat from long drift or rally sessions and felt like a cheap toy by comparison.
Does your wheel a lot of noise when you play with 100% force feedback?
@eljorge225 it can be a little noisy during crashes, hitting curbs, or driving offroad. During normal use it isn't loud.
@@jerrylindgren7828 thanks man, i was thinking mine was broken
Really good in depth reviews, just subcribed :)
Thanks for showing us how to take this thing apart. My fan broke a couple of weeks ago and I'm going to try and get it replaced myself.
Hello Markus.
Did the bearing itself go or did the fan broke?
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
@@bmbpdk the motor broke. It just didn't spin anymore. Fanatec sent ma a new one.
@@maggusmala Ah ok, thanks for the answer.
5:56
Alcarta.
😂😂
Let's all take a moment to honour the memory of All Carta...for whatever reason !
Thank you for your awesome reviews
Thank you for this video! This gave me the extra information I needed to clean my wheel base, much appreciated!
Does your wheel a lot of noise when you play with 100% force feedback?
Thank you for the review!
beste review ooit,bedankt voor je nice werk. duim omhoog voor jou, mooie simulator btw.
Outstanding review - thanks man!
Lol can you say alcantara again for me 😂
5:55 if you're looking for it 😂
Every day im learn sth new from Yours reviews. Than you sir.
Great review Barry as always.
hey , just wanted to say i appreciate what you do in these vids.. i just visited your web page and read through your "about" bio on your web page..really appreciate where you are coming from , as not trying to sell me stuff and letting me decide..and for that i will be in contact for some consultation.. its just to big a market out there with many unknown products .. im just a musician who loves to to sim race..so thanks for these vids they are very helpful to me and many others as well....so ya right on talks soon when im ready for my upgrades (got a thrustmaster entry due to both your reviews on the logitech and thrustmaster..very insightful..)im just discovering the satisfaction of sim racing . awesome..
ty for video mate :)
i also learned a new english word....."Vague"
it fits well when speaking about pcars2 ffb indeed
cheers
just slot the motor mounting holes, then you can adjust the belt tension easily. The motor sensor is feedback to the brushless motor controller (so it can give good torque at zero rpm and low rpm), not for feedback to the game. Good review.
Got mine for couple of months now. Really love it and the sensation of driving is really good. To be fair I don’t have much reference to any other wheelbase. I mean I tried a G29 and was not that impressed back then. That’s why I went with a more premium wheelbase. But had no problem with the wheelbase and still loving it. This thing plus VR is really immersive.
I’m planning to build a full sim rig once I move into a bigger apartment.
Very nice dissembly video. Id like to see the replacement of those two plastic pulleys with ball bearings.
Yeah I bought one.. Thanks for the review! Big upgrade for my motion sim from the 'Logitech driving force' wheel I bought in 2010. I really like it and it seems to work for me! DMAX
Thank you Barry now i have seen the insides of my wheel base 👍 🏁 now waiting you to review the Fanatec csl elite McLaren gt3 wheel. It is next on my shopping list 😁
Yes, you are right Barry there is no bearing in the pulley.
What a guy,amazing content.
37:47 I think that the flex problem is solved, I got this wheel 2 weeks ago and there is no flex whats so ever if you tight very well the screw connecting to the base
Do you like the wheel!?? I just ordered mine
@@MatthewWieler The wheel is great. those were the $600 better spent in my life rofl
Thank you good sir!!
Heel and toe looking fantastic
Great review as always! My CSL Elite wheel base (non ps4) gets pretty loud under load. Wondering if I can replace the 92mm (I think) fan with a 120mm quiet fan.
The fan is 70mm.
You can put 120mm fan but not inside the base:
www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-csl-elite-racing-wheel-thread-officially-licensed-for-ps4.356268/page-48#post-12298332
33:40 this looks amazing fun.
Great review ! Thanks a lot
Really Nice review, I just bought one,
Nice wheel?
Thanks Barry.
The motor inside the wheel does not output 6Nm I'm very sure. The wheel output from the wheelbase output shaft could be 6Nm but the electric motor itself outputs a lot less. The 6Nm output torque from the base is achieved with the drivetrain which in this case is the pulley gears which has a ratio something like between 1:5 and 1:7 (quick eye estimation from the video). Which means the motor torque is between 6Nm /5 or 6Nm/7. Which is about 1Nm.
Erwin Lommer that's right, the gears and belt amplify the torque
The ratio is 1:6
Wait, we can generate 6Nm torque from a 1 Nm motor? I didn't knew that. I knew we can multiply the force but I didn't think it would be this much.
K.G We can theoretically do it to nigh infinite ratios with enough gears, the problem becomes that the gearing will slow down the rotation. With a 1:6 ratio for every 6 rotations of the electric motor the other end will rotate once. This means that eventually you'll start running into issues with motor acceleration times, top rpm speeds, consistency, reaction times to varying inputs, etc. This is why the best wheelbases used today are direct drive, with absolutely no gearing in between the motor and the user, to get maximum accuracy and controllability on the forces, but you need a really strong motor to really make use of that.
It is the same principle as the gearbox in your road car. In smaller gears (1 and 2) the gearbox multiplies the torque but speed is reduced. Total gear ratio is something like 1:16 altogether. At high gears the there is less torque at rear wheels but they can rotate faster, ratio being 1:4 or so.
The equation for gearboxes is power in = power out. Little power is lose inside the transmission but we don't care about that. And power = rpm * torque. In other words with gears you can adjust how much torque you get from power but you can't change your torque without changing your rotation speed.
So if you change the gear ratio to 1:6 your speed is decreased by 6 but your torque is increased by 6x. But power stays the same so power = rpm * torque = 6*torque * 1/6*speed. Now 1/6 times 6 is 1.
The reason why fanatec belt wheels used to have two belts is because the bigger gear grows too big if you try to do big gear ratios with one pair of belt gears. If you want something like 1:10 ratio the bigger gear needs to be x10 the size of the small gear. If your smaller gear is 2.5cm or one inch your bigger gear needs to be 25cm or 10inches in diameter to get a 1:10 ratio (10x the size). Can't fit 25cm or 10inch gear inside the wheel very easily! And with belt gears you can not make the smaller gear very small because it start slipping. So they use two sets of gears. Total gear ratio here is = ratio1 x ratio2. With two 1:5 gear ratios you get 1:25 total gear ratio.
Logitech can do it in one pair of gears in their g29 because they use plastic gears. With plastic gears the smaller gears on motor can be really small. I think the g29 motor gears are something like 1cm or 2/5 inches. On 1:10 ratio this makes the bigger gear only 10cm or 4 inches. But with plastic gears the gears may also break so you can not put too much torque through those small gears. Which is one of the reasons why logitech uses two motors. Less load on those gears and they still get their big gear ratio.
The big gear ratio helps with the torque. If logitech wheels can output something like 2 newtonmeters of torque and their gear ratio inside the wheel is say 1:15 then the torque of each of those motors is 2Nm / 2 /15 = 0.07Nm. However if you were to take those gear ratios and use your 30Nm direct drive monster servo your output torque could be 450Nm. 900Nm if you put in two servos. Needless to say those plastic gears would break instantly you turn it on.
Thrustmaster uses smaller motors than fanatec (generally) so thrustmaster needs bigger gear ratio than fanatec. And thrustmaster use belt gears and because they can't do big ratios in one pair of gears for reasons mentioned above they use two sets of belt gears. But in all cases the electric motor torque is far less than the number the wheelbase can output. It is not wrong or misleading marketing. It is just how physics work.
As almost all makers of fake-leather do, they put a smell of real leather on it to make people think its the real thing. So the ''snifftest'' isn't realy a way to determine if it is the real thing or not ;) Good video, cool voice, keep it up!
WHy are these things so expensive?
I was expecting metal body and metal connection parts... but so much plastic.
I hear you. I got a g29 with shifter for $325. It's all plastic and felt pretty cheap to me and was going to return it and get a t300 or this wheel. After watching reviews on both they're all plastic and cheap looking so now I don't know what to do...
Molon Labe this is their cheapest wheel. I had the g920, thrustmaster tx, and now the fanatec v2.5 with the bmw wheel. Fanatec is by far the best with so much tuning in the wheel that is soo important. Also a lot more feel of the road and car
@Tom Watson T300 is a liability. Seems like 50% breakdown rate withing the first year if you believe reviews.
Logitech is a kids toy 😂😂😂 abd thrustmaster is shit to had to keep replacing sent it all back now buying this setup
J T G only if you run the ffb maxed. Turned mine down to 70% and runs just fine.
I think the use of the shaft behind the motor is to act as a sensor for the motor itself... I think that the motor is a sensored bldc.. hence the need for the sensors... There will be varied resistance.. so a sensorless bldc will likely suffer if there's too much resistance.. but a sensored bldc knows how to counter the torque without "skipping" from a false control signal from the controller...
Great review thx! Haven't you experienced a 'metalish' clunk sound when turning hard under pressure? Maybe I should also open the wheelbase and check if all screws are tightent well.
I have the exact same problem after only a few weeks. Did you ever find out what was causing it?
I have the same problem: czcams.com/video/NoHwWpAyx_4/video.html
I am wondering that such a nice channel has so few subscriptions
Great vid! But next time please include you ingame ffb settings
Great video thanks. Any chance you've done a video on replacing that cooling fan on that exact wheel base?
I would buy it only for your _radio_ speaker voice you have
Do you have a guide on how you tune your wheels in game? Would be amazing for noobs like me! :)
Btw, love everything you do!
There’s some out there just do a quick google search. Force feed back seems to be the biggest discussion. Would be great if he could give us a baseline. Just ordered this setup, curious to see if there are any changes....
Great review...I have one Fanatec CSL Elite and i think it, very good for the price.
But let me ask something...how do you remove de Fanatec logo from the formula carbon racing wheel?
I want to remove the mine too.
Thanks
Barry, I only play NASCAR Games (currently NASCAR Heat 4) on PS4 and I'm considering purchasing this wheel and the pedals. I currently use a Logitech G29. In your opinion, is this an upgrade and is the Brake pedal that comes with the 2 pedal set sufficient?
Wow. Nice!
I know this is an old review but it bugs me so here goes:
This is not a 6nm motor, that would be what wheel rim shaft can provide with pulley advantage. My guess is that motor is about 1nm or just under. But i really enjoy your reviews, no one dives as deep as you.
there in fact are a berring behind the rim and theres another one on the back under the black cover with six screws
Thanks. I would like to see a TS-PC Racer review as well.
Love your channel. Just got the G923, a bit disappointed, but would be curious to hear what you think of it. I will be getting the Fanatec CSL Elite in a few months, and passing on the G923 to my nephew.
I would like to see rfactor2 included in these reviews. It has one of the best ffb simulations out there
FastUnderCoverKitGOOGLE
Im also waiting for the test on rF2 with have the best and fastest tyre phisics on the whole sim market
In pCars 2 I'm using raw with about 100/70/90/40 values in about all cars with my Accuforce. High tone values let me feel the tyre slip unlike in any other title and the steering corrections very similar to real onboards. When I loose the car, I know always why, but don't happen that often. "Reading" the FFB respectively getting used to it is always key for sure and in some cars I miss the roughness of rF2 FFB or road noise like in iRacing, but Simvibe is better here in pCars 2. If any motion system can compensate Simvibe it's yours, but I doubt it can. The speed of sound is always faster and the vibrations are key to feel seat of pants effects in real life as well as Simracing. Hans Joachim Stuck said, he was driving without seat-padding to feel the car better and was successful with that like in the Audi GTO.
Nice to see this taken apart. The explanations of how each part works is just made up.
Hi Barry and everyone else;
I hope you could do a 1-1 comparison between this model (v1.1) and the more advanced 2.5
Is it worth the additional 200€???
Thanks
What a honest review!!
I hope you can review the loadcell paddle and TGT WHEEL!!
Great review. Thank you.
Great review Barry. It would be nice to try your gear on Raceroom as well. Hopefully will see that in the future. Best Regards
Really good stuff. Just wondering you didn't mention what force feedback settings you were using on the ps4 project cars 2. Even with FEI set to 0 you still get quite a few clipping ... a force feedback video would be amazing
Very simple internals.
From all the comments on forum I was expecting more when opening it
Great review thanks full of good info. Would you recommend this setup for Gran Turismo Sport? Worth the extra money over the Logitech G29?
Definitely better than the G29 for iracing! Just made the switch. Night and day difference.
@@t.sewell1513 I only play GT Sport at the moment and not planning to switch to PC.
You should watch the review from Super GT. He plays GT Sport mostly. and he used both the G29 and the CSL Elite
The fan actually pushes air out of the top.
Hey @Sim Racing Garage thanks for another disassembly video :D Isn't there is too much plastic inside for the price they ask for it? Considering the amount of it, looks like a Thrustmaster wheel for me.
Also I want to point out that fan inside the case is pulling air OUT because they usually blow towards the hub, meaning that it creates negative pressure inside and pulls fresh air through honey-cone looking back grill.
Like owner of all TM wheels without T-GT and owner of this Fanatec wheel - gotta say that there is nothing common between them outside and inside! The functions here are Epic! After releasing the CSL Elite GT3 Mc Laren rim - OMG!:)
the price would also include the PS4 license to be compatible maybe?
What sort of maintenance would be needed? Mine just died after 2,5 years, power to it at all, the power brick does give a blue light. I'm checking what I can do to revive it.
My problem with the Fanatec setup is, for a little more money you can buy an Accuforce Pro direct drive setup. This wheel is $510 shipped. Accuforce is $700 (not sure about shipping)
I'm not rich enough to afford either, so I pay $300 for Thrustmaster and get a wheel AND pedals.
That $700 on sale. Regularly $999.99
@@SIMRIG412 you obviously did not look at the website... AccuForce Pro V2 'Your Way' Steering System Kit is $699 all the time. I have wheels to use already.
Having recently acquired one of these, my main complaint would be that when the fan kicks into high speed, I can feel the small, high-frequency vibrations of it through the wheel. It is quite distracting. Since the fan is easily accessible, I shall experiment with some kind of shock-mounting of the fan to absorb those little vibrations.
I have the same, I’m considering replacing the fan with something better
I feel the same.
It's pronounced al-can-tara lol. Great video very in depth 👍.