E123 Vacuum Bleeding a Dry Brake System with the Harbor Freight Kit! 1956 Chevy Bel Air Restoration
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- In Episode 123, we take a new brake system, fill it with fluid, bench bleed the master cylinder, and vacuum bleed everything with the Pittsburgh Vacuum Brake Bleeding Kit from Harbor Freight. From bone-dry to full pedal!
Bill Thomassie
"Christine" 1956 Chevy Bel Air
2-door Sedan Restoration
Music Credits:
All CZcams Standard License
"Greaser" by TrackTribe
• TrackTribe - "Greaser"... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great job on the brakes. That vacuum bleader looks like the way to go. Thanks Bill!
Once I learned about the vacuum tool, I've never looked back!
In the future, apply a little bit of pedal movement and find something to lock the pedal in place. This will cap off the compensation ports and keep the fluid from dripping / draining out of master cylinder. Think of it as putting a finger on top of a straw. Take your finger away and all the pop flows back out and back into your drink. This will work on any master cylinder. Just don’t forget to pull the brake light fuse if project is going to be awhile as not to run down battery. This is great for when you need to change a hose or caliper and don’t want an abs modulator to get air in it. “But” with this case and the system being completely empty, best off doing it the way you did. Nice work Bill! So cool to see her going back together.
Hmmm... Even though I've taken apart master cylinders, this is a feature that I'm not aware of. Next time I'm going to have to check it out!
Nice clean way to do it, I'm use to doing it the old way, by having someone pump and hold the petal and cracking the bleeder, then you have a mess to clean up.This is a great tip!
Once I used the vacuum set up, I've never looked back!
Good job Bill
👍
Nice job Bill. Good to see some moving parts get put back on 👍
The stack of parts on the side is getting smaller and smaller...
Very informative video! I have a similar system, disc up front, drums in rear. No power booster. But I also don't have a equalizer valve/proportioning valve. May need to get one. All my disc and master cylinder stuff fits 69 Camaro/Chevelle. Got a MityVac kit, kinda like your HF kit. I bench bled master cylinder before installing it. Just have to remember I now have 2 separate systems, not just one, like original. :) I was rather anxious with you setting the quart of fluid on your beautiful new paint job!! ;) Wish me luck!
I'm still not 100% on the function of the proportioning valve, but it does a couple of things. It's supposed to divert pressure to the rear drums differently than the front discs because those two behave differently. The second thing is that there is a little piston in the middle that supposed to stay balanced and in the middle. If for some reason the front or rear looses pressure, that little piston is what makes contact and trips the brake light. On a race car, we used to have adjustable proportioning valves.
Nice work 👏 I just finished up doing basically the same thing last week on my brothers car.
Nice 👍
If that's a stock rearend you'll have to keep adjusting them ... I have silicone fluid in my cars ... so it doesn't take the paint off ... although sometimes it's hard to get a hard pedlal with that ... gettin there ...
That is something I could have pointed out, that the factory drum brakes didn't yet have the automatic adjuster lever. I didn't really think about it too much until you commented.
I had manual breaks on a ford Maverick, when i was a teen and they suck, very dangerous in my opinion
I wouldn't go as far as saying that they're dangerous. With enough leg, they'll stop just as well. But you do have to put some force into it.