Lower Control Arm Replacement - 4Runner
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- During the installation of the lift and leveling kit (link below), we noticed the lower control arm was not in the best condition. In this video, we show how to replace the lower control arm on the 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD (4thGen).
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VERY IMPORTANT. The cam and toe alignment bolts need to be torqued when the truck is sitting on the ground not jacked up. This insures the rubber bushings are on the normal positions otherwise your putting undue stress on the bushings and will prematurely fail. Been there done that.
Great video! One of my bigger fears is replacing these. You made it straightforward and methodical. Thanks for posting.
It’s a sway bar link. Not a tie rod!!
Thanks for the vid
Thanks guys! My bushings are starting to wear out on my 06 and assumed it was a huge PITA to remove and replace them. My balljoints are also starting to go so may as well just do the whole thing and save myself some headache! CHEERS!
Nice video and great narration. You've def got the voice for it. Just some advice though - never a good idea to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. You should probably at least get a cheap breaker bar from Harbor Freight. That will save the calibration on your torque wrench.
super sweet video, short, detailed and straight to the point.
Great video! I was hesitant doing it in my garage but this video helped!
Nice video! I’m been debating doing this job on my 2010. Very informative.
Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts, its a sure way to break it....use a breaker bar.
Man is not joining around to take off the knuckle bracket.lol... Brings out the BFSH. Nice!!!
Good video with a good sequence of steps. My few criticisms are how the lower knuckle was separated from the LCA. It’s easier to remove/separate the knuckle from the ball joint while the LCA is attached to the car using a fork wedge. Also, using lock tight in the knuckle bolts is common practice. You seem to have read what info is available and that’s great. You certainly know what you’re doing save a few technicalities
👍 There wasn't any loctite on the bolts when they came off the car so I didn't add any.
I wonder if it's worth letting the truck on the ground before tightening up bolts that go through the bushings (just getting them snug before that) as that would be their neutral position?
Have heard both ways. Would recommend torquing bolts that are securing bushings while under the vehicle's load. This was going to an alignment shop right after the install so I wasn't too concerned.
Love it
The big c clip didn’t need to be removed. That simply secures the ball joint to the control arm. Otherwise great video.
C clip needed to be removed, they pounded that ball joint out with a sledgehammer
@@runningbean the c-clip is only there to help hold the balljoint to the control arm itself. they replaced the entire control arm which has a new balljoint installed. all they had to do was pound off that bracket (attaches balljoint stud to knuckle) to re-use which has nothing to do with that c-clip. you’ll see what we mean if you ever do this task yourself.
Good to know! But it was fun trying to remove the clip...
I was thinking why they removed that clip. Didn’t have to when i did mine.
Just jam a pickle fork into the old ball join while it's still on the vehicle and hammer away, you'll save some time
Just a warning to anyone who is doing this on a 5th gen 4runner. Did my wives this weekend (14 SR5) and got the MOOG from Advanced Auto Parts. The Caster/Camber bolts do not fit back in to the MOOG control arm, the OEM Caster/Cambers are too big. Did some more research and apparently on the Toyota 4Runner communities they all say MOOG is crap. The video was great though and disassembling was a breeze, unfortunately I'm going to have to put it back together until I can get some OEMs in. Edit: Nevermind I can't, the retainer pin went flying and is lost.
See link from the t4r forums about someone else who had the same problem: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/227259-buyer-beware-moog-lcas.html
the plannnn for this weekendddddd
This was stupid easy, thanks!
This is such a long shot question, but I am redoing control arms, swivel bars, struts, ball joints, and tie rods. Is there an order to follow to make this easier? I am talking about which one take off first and such? Thanks in advance. Thanks for the video.
Your voice over alone 😁
Thanks a lot, between your video and the factory instructions it all went well.
Quality Content,keep up the great work,I see potential in your channel
GREAT VIDEO!
nice work lads, very informative!
Thanks for the video. Very straightforward. I need to replace both my upper and lower control arms; have any idea which should be replaced first? Not sure if it matters. Also, using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is a great way to mess it up. Just gotta buy a cheap harbor freight one instead.
If you're doing both control arms at the same time, it doesn't matter. If you're replacing them at different times, replace the lower first for safety. A lower ball joint failure is catastrophic.
The torque wrench is a cheap harbor freight one so not too concerned about breaking it.
9to5 Escape
Thanks for the video, getting ready to do this job, as well as tie rods, sway bar links, all 4 shocks, and front wheel hubs/bearings.
Starting to have noises come out of the front end by the tires, really noticeable in slow speed turns/corners.
182k miles and everything down there looks tired and worn.
Might as well knock it out all at once.
I use an old Walmart torque wrench for a breaker bar, after I bought a new one.
Just wouldn’t use it for torquing after that as it can mess up the calibration.
Think I’m gonna buy a $99 electric impact (and impact sockets) from Harbor freight before I start this job.
I could use one anyway, and there is a lot of rust down there (PA car). Should make the job much easier.
Very helpful video I think my busching and ball joints are screw from the rough country 3 inch in the front and 2 in the rear so you think I would be able to fit another inch if lift with these lower control arms I’m thinking about getting bilstesin 5100 shocks while I’m at it to level it better it still leans down in the front slightly
Nicely done thanks for the vid
Looks like you didnt put the alignment bolts back in the same direction as they came out? 😬
When you are removing the tie rod nut (Is that actually the sway bar linkage). Tie rod is lower contected to the front of the knuckle.
Yes it's the sway bar end link.
@@9to5Escape thanks for the video. It helped out a lot. I did both sides this weekend. One side the bolts were frozen and I had to cut but other than that it went well.
How are those Detroit Axle LCAs holding up?
How have these been holding up? Did your cam alignment bolt sleeves actually come out of the old control arm bushings or did you get new ones?
I was able to get all the alignment components back into spec. It still rides smooth and alignment has held. I reused the old alignment bolts/sleeves but the new control arm came with bushings.
Great video!! Did you use aftermarket parts or went with OEM? Great explanation thanks!!
Aftermarket. Please see the description for the link.
Did you preload the suspension before tightening the arm/frame bolts?
No, the car was jacked up by the frame. But you should tighten the bolts under load to get the correct torque.
If you align your sharpy marks on the cam plates and replace the LCAs with OEM, why would you need to get an alignment?
In this case, the LCA bushings were shot. The position of the alignment won't be the same since the new bushings and old bushing aren't the same shape, size, etc. On the safe side I went to get an alignment and it was out of spec. Most shops will check your alignment for free.
great vid
get a breaker bar and stop torturing your torque wrench. it 's not for loosening nut/bolts, mate!!!
It was a cheap $10 torque wrench from Harbor Freight and it was the best we had at the time. Have upgraded since.
I was wondering why there was no quality videos on replacing just the ball joints... Looks like I'll be returning the ball joints and getting the entire lower control arms now lol
If you have a press, you can remove your ball joints and bushings. We didn't have one.
I hear these lower control arms are often seized in there. What do you do then? Use a saw to cut the bolts or what?
You could probably try heat or PB blaster to get the seized bolts off.
any updates to these lower control arms? pros and cons? how's it holding up? need to replace mines soon also
Haven't had any issues with some mild off-roading. I need upper control arms next!
Nice 👍🏽. How are the control arms holding after two years??
Great! Alignment hasn't changed and the ball joint is holding up well.
@@9to5Escape came here for this! Thank you for the update!
Some video that i saw on replacing the lower control arm on the 4runner say you should replacement all the camb bolts and nuts. You didn't replace your camb adjustment bolts and nuts. Why?
NO need it they are not rusted
Boom
lol this is a fantastic video but this dude is already soft spoken so I don't know if that elevator music in the background is helping or hurting LOL
nice video! how are the lower control arms and ball joints holding up?
Thanks! Holding up well and the alignment is all within spec. Drives nice and straight.
Heck yeah! That’s awesome to hear! I need to replace my ball joint . Thinking of doing what you did replacing the whole lower control arm. Thanks for the update on your LCA’s
Are you still happy with the control arms?
@@ryanhodges2296 Yup. No issues since.
Aren’t you’re suppose to tighten the control arm bolts when truck is not jacked up?
I've seen it both ways. It's probably safer to torque the bolts with weight on the control arms. I ended up taking mine straight to an alignment shop anyway.
9to5 Escape thanks for the reply. It does make sense if being aligned then it would be torqued in its normal position.
how many miles have you put on them since the install?
18k miles and still going strong.
Bueller?
Did you use OEM control arms?
I updated the description with the link to the specific control arms I bought.
Word of advice buy a cheap air hammer
As others mentioned - the bushing/cam bolts should be tightened after the vehicle is lowered and the suspension is loaded. And wear some safety glasses!
Agreed. It was taken straight to an alignment shop so everything was torqued properly there.