Beautifully simple 12V glass LED filament lamp.
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2018
- This is one of my favourite 12V lamps so far. It has the simplest possible circuitry and would be perfect for implementing a whole house 12V lighting system that removed your reliance on external power for lighting, gave absolutely zero flicker lighting and with a suitable PWM dimmer, complete dimming from 0-100%.
Other things worthy of note. The simple circuitry means that the lamp will adjust its current according to the supply voltage and only put out its full power when a battery is being charged at around the 14V mark. As the voltage falls the intensity will reduce slightly and the current will drop progressively in a way that will protect a car battery from over discharge.
These lamps would also be great for running strings of E27 lamp holder festoon (a series of lamp holders punched onto continuous cable). You could run a decent number of lamps from a safe 12V supply, but would need to consider voltage drop for long runs.
Here's a generic ebay search link which seems to show up better results in eBay UK :-
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...
Target price is around £1.30 per lamp.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of CZcams's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. - Věda a technologie
Im in China, i have a little solar panel and a battery and a small inverter. I Changed most of my houselighting to 12V now and power it via a "hacked" ATX powersupply and when (not if) power fails i got a nice backup to keep the house lit, charge my phones and other USB devices (DC-DC converter fed into a hacked USB Bus) and can keep my fridge on (via inverter). I have Gas cooking and waterheating so for me personally a poweroutage is nothing more then a minor inconvience until the batteries fail that is (runs about 12 hrs generally outages last at most 6). For Folks in developing countries 12V DC is great and simple and i will definetly get myself those simple LED bulbs since i have the other variety (with the regulator) which do not live very long sadly. They are very much prone to failure overtime.
Nice!
Same here... in Beijing.
Same here, though the 30W panel does keep the battery charged. Have gone through 2 batteries though in the time I have had it ( around 7 years now), and the original Chinese MysterLee battery did 3 years and the lead crystal did 3, now just put in another used lead crystal from a UPS that got a new battery.
@Izak Yeah, it's because sometimes they actually test electronics that are exported lol
You dont need a ATX power supply to power 12v bulbs from a solar panel.
My Mother used to have an aquarium light which was fitted with a 12V tungsten lamp, which had a full size BC cap. One day, the lamp failed to light, so she proceeded to fit the lamp into a 240V outlet. As you can imagine, she was quite alarmed by the resulting explosion.
When I questioned her reasoning behind fitting a 12V lamp into a 240V fitting, she explained "Well, I thought it would only use 12 of the 240 volts"...
bless her heart, but this is one of the many very good reasons to have good science education for everyone
I agree. However, Mum went through the education system in the 1930's when girls were really not encouraged into scientific subjects.
Technically, she was right! The lamp did only use 12 of the 240 volts, and the other 228 of them blew it to smithereens!
Logic would be fine if dealing with current or power!
But...alas not voltage
Give it volts but it takes amps. Bar resistance, she's almost stumbled on Ohms Law from first principles. Never underestimate little old ladies.
( no offence, she may well be relatively young and svelte for all I know ).
“It turned out to be boom volts” is my new favorite phrase. Such a perfect explanation!
I should mod my interior light in my old '89 Galant to an E27 socket and fit one of these as the interior lightbulb. Would be a nice conversation starter when driving people around.
Except you shouldn't have it going when you're driving. ;-)
@@Shaun.Stephens yeah the existing door wiring will work
I love your videos man. Thank you for the time you spend to provide entertainment and knowledge to others.
+1 on prescription glasses - they've saved my eyes countless times. If you're in our line of work, you almost have to wear some glasses full time. You never know when that wire snip,broken tool, spraying chemicals or flash is going to get you.
My worst eye incident was when I kneeled down to look through my scrap metal collection under my grinder bench, I reached up to stabilize myself and just as I looked up to be sure of my hand position my hand wiped several ounces of grinder dust into my eye. Days of agony, no escape, no sleep. Had my glasses on, but it went right behind them. That was 30+ years ago, but has made me cautious to this day. Never count on your glasses to save you, but always wear them.
Cool light. These new elements are a evolution of the LED I didn't see coming - quite clever.
Edit - no joy on USA Ebay search, but here is a link for a 4 element 4W version - 4 pcs for US$16.88 - they have 4 or 6w, choice of WW or CW
www.ebay.com/itm/12V-E26-Light-Bulb-A19-4W-6W-LED-Edison-Classic-Medium-Base-Lamp-RV-Marine-Boat/192760909688?hash=item2ce1720f78:m:mTfXI6hB7z-lwtc_uySorEw:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true
Ouch!
I have always thought of providing my home with a 12V circuit for lighting purposes, inspired by low voltage applications in my life outdoors. I never bothered to check if such systems were already on the market for indoor use. And now you're showing this one! It is simply brilliant. I have loads of used batteries (AA and AAA) with some power left, and combining them has already proved to be able to power a couple of LED's. This way I can get the most out of the batteries, as they are too weak to provide my headlamps with a convenient charge, but still contain energy. Thank you so much for this video, this was the spark I needed to get started. Keep up the good work, I enjoy every aspect of your creations.
Great review as always Big Clive! I have to say that I'm glad you mentioned that it is hard to count numerous little dots in a row.
I was thinking it was just me. one two three four five - oh darn it! one two three etc!
I use these outside in our Tiki Bar, and run them off solar panels and a rechargeable lead acid battery. Makes fo great outdoor lighting without needing a mains supply
great vid, shared to me via a 12v narrowboaters FB group, exactly what I was looking for for my steampunk lounge :)
I was just thinking it would look great on a canal boat
These bulbs are great. Never dies when others fail on exact burn hours down to the second.
Have been running these 24/7 for i don't know how long now 🤔
The Edison base 12V lamps are also frequently used in RV's. Go to an RV dealer and look at all the 12V accessories available, like exhaust fans, coffee makers, etc. It's a good source for 12V stuff if you are running solar/battery power, and more efficient than using a 12V to 120V converter to power a standard appliance.
The dimming on this is incredibly smooth to, you can dim it right down to zero and I haven't found a standard 120v (US here) LED bulb that dims down this low and nicely. Planning on installing a knob and tube electrical system on the ceiling of my living room to complete the industrial look but it needs to run on 12v in order to keep the insurance happy and this type of bulb is just the ticket.
Isn’t that great simple engineering? Gained great insight! No techi I know has 1 mil subscribers. I just subscribed as well. Keep up your curiosity and great videos. Thank you.
I really wish they wouldn't mix up voltages and fittings. E27 should definitely not be a 12V socket.
You've never spent time on big ships I can tell. I've had E27 lamps in 12, 24, 42, and 48V in addition to the "standard" 120V.
@@Peter_S_ Still it's a good idea to have separate standards for different stuff that isn't directly interoperable. Call it "idiot-proofing" if you want, but this kind of thing deserves it.
@@Peter_S_ Surely these are not being sold for use on big ships. For most people, that's an irrelevant observation.
@@pauljs75 The problem is you're assuming E27 is connected to voltage. It's not. It's not connected to current either. There's a huge difference in construction between a 40W capable and a 300W capable E27 sockets even if you forget about the voltage. The trouble with "idiot-proof" things is that they only get used by idiots.
@@misterhat5823 Why do you think they're not sold for use on boats and ships? Were you previously aware that E27 is common for 12V, 24V, 36V, 42V, 48V, 100V, 120V, and 230V lamps? I doubt it. How do you think all the things you use in life get transported around? Even my little 28 foot sailboat and 22 foot fishing boat had E27 @ 12V cabin lighting. Same with my 38 foot cabin cruiser. Before the last few years with LEDs coming into their own, that's how lighting was done around the world.
these are for "Off-Grid" systems, and also for RV's! Love the options!
Find a lot of interesting tech via your channel. You are right the cosplay possibilities for this are interesting.
Preferably find some in plastic though! Thin glass and being jostled at a convention can't go well together.
@@charliedobbie8916, the thing is though the glass acts as a heat sink for the bulb's filiments in most designs. Not sure about these lower powered ones though.
For a little while in the USA, ATT , the internet company was including 12v UPS' with their equipment. Later the UPS's were all showing up in thrift stores everywhere! These UPS's use standard 7ah lead acid batteries. I ended up wiring these UPS's to lamps, then sticking 12v lights in the sockets . Then putting these lamps with UPS's around the house. If the power goes out, we still have lights!
These lamps you show here would make these projects last a lot longer with their 1-2 watt draw! Thanks for the video Clive!
By the way the UPS's were by Belkin. They sell for a bit more online, but if ya find them in a thrift store, they usually go for 5 to 10 USD. Hope this helps someone!
yup but those had shit runtime due to using tiny 12v sla batteries so I own an apc back-ups pro 1500 and use the external "battery pack" to connect 2 100ah marine batteries for ~3 hours under heavy gaming load 6 if I just want my server and interwebs for my tablet
@@christopherhauck4702 hah, that's pretty cool!
Perhaps Julian should use these in his new work area, powered directly off his solar system.
Good idea, and how comes you've been able to view this 5 days ago when I only just got the email now?
@@TheSpotify95
Patreon. It's been that for years now.
There's always that one guy that asks this …
At this point in time, I think he would care about them being red and green coloured.
@@Anvilshock- At least he didn't make the 'time machine' remark.
Nice lamps for camping/ caravaning.
I've been wearing glasses since i was about 7 years old. I can only remember one situation where it protected me from getting something in my eye, that was when a bumble bee hit the glasses while inline skating at ~30km/h. Everything else aparently warped through the lenses somehow, because i regularly get something in my eyes despite the glasses.
I have a few 12V E27 and E14 bulbs. Other than the potential for confusing voltages I really like them. Makes basically any lamp portable by swapping the plug for a 12V cigarette lighter plug, or even just clamping onto the plug 🙂 Good for a campervan,
Your voice n accent is basically asmr
For counting tiny things in parallel, I find that holding a clear ruler to it gives just enough reference to making counting super easy.
haha always very exciting when you plug something into boom volts when it's not suppose to be boom volts :)
Done that, big box of assorted lamps in a lighting shop, and a test socket. Let's just say the glass envelope did survive, the socket had a skid mark on it, along with an inner surface of the lamp being tungsten plated, plus the breaker did trip. Bought another one of the 12V 30W B22D lamps though, just for the ability to make it work off a car battery in a good old fashioned lead lamp housing.
As I recall, tantalum bead capacitors connected to mains go up quite well... Lot cheaper than blowing up a bulb every time you want a bang!
@@charliedobbie8916 So do 200 mfd 15 VDC capacitors. One heck of a bang.
These seem interesting to use in my shed, small solar panel regulator and a car battery I have lying around.
Thanks Clive.
I count the number of LEDs using a piece of welding glass. It allows me to look right into an led without burning my eyes out. Started doing it after a solar eclipse.
I'll just snap a picture and underexpose it to -2
"boom"-Volts - I just love it :D
Boom voltage is the most interesting voltage! I'm sore that it wasn't filmed.
I've seen the little hole in the threaded section of E27 bulbs before. My best guess: It's to release any pressure created when the bulb section is pushed into and glued to the threaded section. This stops the bulb popping back out of the glue before it sets due to trapped pressure. Could also be useful during operation in the case of mains powered/high temperature globes for similar reasons.
BOOMVOLTS...i propose this as a new standard of measurement. forget si units!!
Sense & Simplicity
You probably need an LDR for that?
I have often thought 12v and 5v DC should be the future for domestic use with 240V just required for high powered applications. At the moment so much energy is being lost when you consider how many transformers are in each house hold. It seems mad that the lighting circuits are still on 240v when very few modern lighting applications require it. Hopefully within the next ten years this will start to happen.
clives first sentence was good, else i would have thought deja vu :D
I used a couple of caravan lights as my emergency power cut lighting, these look like they would be just as good.
cool I might get some of these ooh pink lamp holder ! foxy has an orange one !
I already have all my lighting using 12VDC...with both strip & bulb LEDs.
The system is powered by a AGM battery bank which is charged with a power supply running through a charge controller.
All the strip lighting is dimmable and in cool white over the work areas.
The bulb are in warm white and are over the more living type areas.
A moderately interesting thing to try with these LED filament bulbs - hold one up to a "plasma ball" and you can get it to light up.
I wouldn't recommend that. The voltage gradient from plasma balls is huge and can damage some sensitive electronics with high reverse voltage. Things like fluorescent tubes and neon filled lampos are fine though.
I have several 12V LED lights in the house, fed by a power supply in the cellar. They are stick on strings, some fed by PWM dimmers, some by motion sensors. I can see homes in the future with low voltage DC busues, powering all kinds of lights and gadgets, saving a lot of installation problems. My ceiling lights which take 100ma have #12 gauge wire with ground. Overkill.
Cool video clive
This would be great for caravanners. We tend to have 80w+ solar panels and leisure batteries so in the awning would provide great lighting. At home I could see a smaller set up in a shed with say a 10/20w solar hooked up to a lawnmower / car battery. I know there's similar shed LED systems, but they tend to be short lived or dim.
I remember how Tungsram have the same paper box for 240v and 24v light bulbs. The shop was a bit anoyed by it. :D
It was beautifully simple...
"Two filaments, both in series"... I much prefer the model with two filaments with one in series and one in parallel. :)
bokkenka If it had been all 40 LEDs in series it would work around 110V DC.
I have seen a few bars in Bangkok with a bunch of these lamps glowing at low intensity to provide mood lighting.
They used to have some kind of 12v house lighting, or at least lower than usual, maybe it was 24volts. I remember seeing it in an old house in canada once. Had strange wall plate switches,with 2 buttons i think, that might be the way to track one down if you wanted.
My little white £4 rechargeable LED desk lamp arrived the other day. It's very happy running on two Nokia BL5C batteries in parallel. Each have a claimed rating of 1020 Ma, so it will have a respectable run time.
just make sure the cells are not knock-offs some don't have protection circuits.
Very nice :-D.
Edison base 12v lamps are mainly intended for solar application. I couldn't believe how popular this design was when I was looking for solar lightning for our shed/workshop - it's basically its own standard now. While I don't think there'd be any harm in someone accidentally sticking a mains bulb onto the solar circuit, I still wanted future proofing that was idiot proof, and went a different route.
My order of 4x of these bulbs arrived on NYE, and I'm impressed with them, the colour of the light is the nicer end of warm white (not keen on the yellowy-white, looks yucky), and they're nice and bright given their rating, got one running off a 3S lithium battery pack (with protection, of course!) and it's running nicely, might just stick my solar panels back in the window and have a couple 12v-only "free power" lamps on the go... :D
Thought I'd add this technical note - my bulbs lack the resistor!! Same style, same box, same construction, but no resistor (as I just found out when one got ever so slightly overvolted on a "12v DC" wallwart and blew one of the two groups of LEDs in one of the filaments!!), oops!! :P
Peeled the ES cap off as you did with yours, no resistor, just a direct connection from base pip to the LED filaments and back out to the screw cap, so they're not all equal it seems... :S
@@twocvbloke I bought a 10 pack.. also no resistor... it is a true 12v lamp. I popped one at 13.8v on a solar system..
I've fitted a 10 Ohm resistor pack into a lamp socket for use on anything higher than 12v, seems a bit odd to have them set up for dead-on 12v rather than higher versions of "12v"... :\
Use E27 in my 1980 motorhome. Boom Volts. Nice.
"The voltage turned out to be boom-volts."
-Clive, 2018
This is a very interesting and helpful video! Did you ever connect the lamp to 240 Volt AC, I can not imagine if only the led's will die or the glas will burst🧐
Most of my place is already set up for 12VDC backup with solar panels to go up within the next year, all due to the frequency of power failures here during summer storms
Seems like a great way to use solar without all the conversation of a DC battery converted to AC often converted to DC to run LEDs to make light.
With so many things using USB-C PD now it seems reasonable you could run most stuff on 12V with car charger type supplies (but hopefully a more reliable plug like PowerPole not cigar lighters?
I did something like this for ham radio field day, whole system was 12V except some box fans that ran off a small generator.
My old dad is stocking up lamps at the moment. He seems to think they will cease production soon to be replaced by something else. He is 82 and possibly full of complete mince, but I bought a pile of them myself.
Incadescent bulbs? Secretly replace them by LED filament bulbs :)
There are many of us who are prepared all over the world for electricity shutdown we are strong and will be survivors.
A whole house 12V system that covers lighting, but also with 2.1x5.5mm barrel plugs and 12V to USB at the wall too would be sweet.
Clive, I have seen cars go up as high as 15.0V. I know this is relatively common, as i have worked at an auto parts store for a couple of years and have done many dozens if not hundreds of electrical tests on customer vehicles. That said, 15.1V or so is the very limit of "normal", as far my testing equipment was concerned.
I remember this being the case mostly on Jeeps, maybe even other brands under the Chrysler umbrella.
(we had a lot of Jeep customers, if only because it was popular to keep old ones around for a long time in my area)
Probably back in the old days with external mechanical regulators? Especially after somebody fiddles with them. DC Boom Volts!
With genuine Samsung and LG Lion cells in some of the older designs now being about 1/2 the price they were 5 years ago and still available brand new, I decided to make myself a 3S system with 8 in parallel. Basically a 200Wh battery (once you figure in the losses etc). I have a few 12V LED Mini strip lights round the flat and use some PV panels in the windows to charge them. My electricity bill is now under £4 a month as basically all I use it for is washing and the fridge. Hot water is from a boiler. The only problem was that balancing initially took chuffing ages as the cells need to be balanced voltage wise before you put them in parallel. Then the BMS balances them in series (which took a week cos it only has a 60mA balance current). For the parallel balance all you need to do is connect all the negatives together, then have a common point and connect each positive to the common through a 100R resistor.
Interesting using a standard lamp base. Good way to surprise someone if it was accidentally left on a utility closet shelf.
Make a very cool chain out of these!
I would like you to TEST Waterproof sprays or other for circuit boards.... Should be Fun!!
Words of the day! Boom Volts. :-)
I like the 12v house lighting idea except for 1 thing, some people might not notice that power had gone off and their Frozen foods / Refrigerated food might spoil without them noticing the power outage.
It's only a matter of time before all newly built houses are fitted with DC power sockets and a deep-cycle battery backup, as well as a mains supply.
1:02 I was expecting X-Ray machine here xD
9:10 this is actually what I am doing. Although I live in a big city, I often am faced with power outages quite often a year... Beijing, China. I have been steadily replacing all the lights to 12V LEDs and run them off a battery/backup system. The same for my computers, they all run on 20V DC as main input voltage... I am not at the stage of a PowerWall yet, but would hope to get to this one day.
BTW, nearby we have a ton of stores for LED and other lighting ornaments... a valhalla for you. Often wonder if I should make photos or send you some of the stuff.
Why does the power fail so often?
@@simontay4851 several things contribute to this. the wiring is all above ground and easily affected by weather conditions, but this is therefore also easy to repair. But the biggest problem is that people here over use their air conditioner during summer and even in(/before) winter turn on electrical heaters... putting strain on the power supply. In the neighbourhood there is a lot of stores and office buildings which weren't there a few years ago. I guess this segment of the power grid did not account for that.
That would be my ideal lighting for an Eco house, using 12v led throughout.
24V would be better for longer runs however
6:25 Thank god you have iodine sticks, now!
Nice handy lamps.
Big Clive: "Let's open up the lamp..."
Genie, hastily putting on some underwear: "Hey hey HEY! You were supposed to *rub* the lamp! Not *open* it...!"
The resistor looks like a 5 band 1% precision with color code brown black black gold brown(?)
There is two issues with these kinds of COB filament lights.
The first is that their failure rate is quite high. I needed to get about 36 of these throughout a house for several Chandeliers and fixtures. Of those about 9 failed in the first year. This makes sense the defects that affect the LEDs are going to result in failure early on. Which means after a year that failure rate is going to drop off hard and you'll get somewhat typical LED lifetimes. But its still going to be weakest link in the chain with these lights.
The second issue is that dimmability is a pretty complicated issue here. As you noticed that change in voltage to brightness was very non-linear. Plus with AC dimming a COB gets super shoddy especially with a triac dimmer. The reason is having that many LEDs in series with no filtering is super hard on any one LED. You mention PWM dimming however in order to be non-flickery would require fairly expensive low voltage dimmer systems. Thats the whole expense of AC based dimmable LED lights is the low voltage power and PWM control unless you get super cheap ones that flicker and thats the whole issue.
Which is intriguing me is the possibility of using Power of Ethernet as a power source for dimmable LED lights. The reason is the PoE is higher voltage around 48v which lowers the switching current of the transistor making it cheaper while also using much higher quality LEDs in series due to the money saved at not having to jam a tiny power supply inside the light base. The light then provides the transistor and PWM driver that runs at high rates. This means then that you'd have to have PoE in your house but then again you currently pay a huge premium having small AC to DC PSUs in every device.
So this could be a more efficient way to light your house if your using a solar power system? If so isn't this type of LED arrangement more suitable for decorative lighting as opposed to utility lighting? I just don't get the purpose of making a 12 volt light with a Edison base other then that fact it makes for an interesting video lol
What home appliances still run on AC power? Fridge, oven, dryer? Lighting, TV, and computers are all DC now, would it be advantageous to have a central high-efficiency rectifier / transformer instead of a power brick for each?
Only problem with transmitting dc is the voltage drop along the conductor, so a dc 12v rail for lighting would be more inefficient than a AC circuit unless you want to step up to around 1million volts like the HVDC grid connections.
CPC have some *very* cheap high-wattage 240V LED bulbs now. Just picked up a 15W, 1300 lumen bulb for just over a pound. Crazy!
I lighted most of my house with 24v regulated led strips. Planing to switch it over to DC when I have time .. pretty much all loads short of the vacuum is dc
And if its the old style motor, even that vacuum might run with high enough DC Voltage (universal motor).
I wonder if they make these in 3 series filaments with a bigger resistor. Better linearity and stuff.
Very nice, though it is quite disappointing that it doesn't provide the possibility of an exciting surprise when used in a grid system.
Could we remove the resistor and determine the power requirements to run the bulb without it? I have an idea for a basic project that will run at approx. 8.25 volts average and Im trying to avoid needing a driver board.
I remember prying something with a very sharp blade like that once. Let's just say *never* again. That blade slipped and cut half a centimeter into my thumb.
Have you found any very large versions of this light? For hanging over the bar. They would look nice at lower voltages
Philips make such bulb, it's large, dim, amber and runs on mains voltage, so more decorative than functional
Goes boom. Most people freak out. For us it is a missed opportunity.
love the accent
Boom Volts are the Best Volts
Too bad. I checked and my Auto-Ranging meter does not go up to boom Volts either. Should I get a new one?
I used to like these type of bulbs when they first appeared in the supermarket UK. (240 volt - 6 watt Bayonet equivalent to 60 watt standard (old) bulb). I bought loads of them for almost each room and therefore save money on electric. But they don't seem to last very long before becoming faulty and flickering so bad that you have to take them out. They are not cheap either at around £6 each. What could be the problem with them? Are they more suited to DC current rather than household AC? or could there be an underlying manufacturing problem as in the parts on the circuit board.
I've found them to be reliable. But the manufacturers often push all the LEDs too hard in the higher power versions.
So, Clive you've been doing an Electroboom eh!
11.1V on LiPo for the cyberpunk inclined
Only nominative and only when there are three in series. It can range from 7.5V to 12.6V depending on the charge.
@@anlumo1 Under load, I think that would work well for 3S with the 10R soaking up the buffer
@@TonyLing The problem is that you have to destroy the case to change the resistor.
@@anlumo1 You don't, it is self regulating by the diode curve.
You can always add 10R in series again externally if needed
Thought I'd add a bit more of my experience with the bulbs I got, totally blew the first one that got overvolted (it was damaged from being initially blown, so, meh), just tried another on a charged car battery (open circuit voltage of about 12.7v), and that bulb started smoking its' filaments, luckily I was keeping an eye on it and pulled the plug, so the bulb has "survived", so I think the ones I have are literally 12V-only, not "12V" (aka up to 14v+) automotive power...
Thankfully, on Lithium battery power, they seem okay, but, yeah, the lack of current limiting in these ones, I'd say buyer beware, they're not all equipped for "automotive 12V", and will need either modifying, or being fitted to modified sockets with appropriate resistors fitted...
Check yours on 3V. I wonder if they sent you the wrong version.
At 3v they don't visibly light (I hooked one up direct to a 2.4w solar panel with a meter connected to watch the voltage & watched it as the sun came up), I think that they took the "DC12V" stamp on the cap literally, as at and below 12V, they work well (as my 3S lithium battery pack setup seems to show to me), but over that they consume more amps than needed and eventually go into thermal runaway...
They're the same construction as yours, each filament having two series sections of 10x parallel chips, but no resistor to limit the current, so they either misunderstood "12V" specs, or they just cheaped out and left out the resistor...
This is the listing my 4x came from:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283279364790
I got some 3V ones from a solar LED filament strings set, glass bulbs with E12 base, the tiny solar panel boost a 1.2NiMh to 3V, the filament have 18 chips in parallel, Vf of 2.54V, with a 47ohm resistor so they were running at 10mA, each set had 10 bulbs, I'm driving them using a buck/boost at 3.5V off a 18650 cell and they seems ok at 20mA (0.05W), how hard can I safely drive them? I've looked all over and these bulbs or filament doesn't exist, no webpages, datasheet, zip, nada.
i lust bought 3 i an going to make 3 battery powered lamps
You should ramp the voltage a little higher... 14.5 to 14.8 is normal for 12v charging... And in boats, we have intelligent chargers that do a monthly equalisation cycle at over 15v.. it would be good to know if these lamps can survive that...
Tried to run one of these off 13.8V. Power ramped up to over 4W and after a minute the filaments burned out.
14.4V would be more correct, if it's that high, the alternator's voltage regulator would be suspicious
@@la8uu That means the resistor value wasn't designed for automobile uses then
Well, that's 4 of those bought, you influential so and so... :P
As for backup lighting, there's always the option of having a UPS in line with the lighting circuit, wouldn't have to be that big given the current generation of LED lighting, although it does come up with the issue of using a transformer to drop to 12/24vDC that inverts it back up to 120/240vAC for a light that drops it back down again to a DC voltage........ :\
An alternative would be to use the adaptors made for emergency lights as they already have the mains transformer and battery connection in a single package. I doubt it would be much cheaper than a UPS but at least you wouldn't be relying on a single point of failure.
You know what "They" say Clive. "If it works... It's a Fluke"
How can I send you some cool unique led light to checkout?
i know youre a busy man doing videos and working away from home a lot ,but do u ever watch vortecks videos on his electric bike builds ? especially his home made battery etc