IKEA Solhetta bulb teardown
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2023
- This video was supposed to be about one version of the bulb/lamp, but it turned out that the box had two different bulbs in it, so it became a double teardown.
One oddity is that the resistor I thought was 510K is actually 5.1 Megohm, which is an unusually high value.
IKEA seem to have stuck with buck regulators for their bulbs which is strange in this era of cheap linear regulators. I'm not sure if there's a significant efficiency advantage of using a buck vs linear regulator. But it may keep some of the heat away from the LED panel.
I think I prefer the simplicity of modern linear regulators with their single smoothing capacitor and no high frequency noise.
As with most IKEA products I'd guess they are designed with a bias to lasting longer than products from other brands.
The 6 pin buck regulator with built in rectifier is new to me. It makes sense, and also benefits from a wider pin spacing for better electrical separation.
The higher power lamp is the only one that is easy to hack for a lower output and massively longer life. The hack would involve removing one of the very low value sense resistors. I removed the 8.2 ohm resistor and the power dropped from 6W to 2.3W. Removing the 12 ohm resistor instead would give closer to 3.5W.
If attempting to open lamps in the way I did in this video, be aware that there are still glass ones in use, so take care to make sure the cover is soft plastic before attempting to squeeze it to release the adhesive. Also be aware that once the cover is removed it exposes live connections on the PCB when powered.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of CZcams's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - Věda a technologie
Actually it was a good thing to get a mixed package since we got to see two different lamps. Two for the price of one!
That happened to me too! I bought what were labelled as warm 40W equivalents by IKEA and got something you'd shine in someone's face if you wanted to know where they were the night of the 12th. I now have a very bright bathroom.
There’s an example we’re told about during induction, about how IKEA’s design ethos/method varies considerably from the norm - the designers for the LED bulbs were given the challenge to make an LED bulb for a retail cost of €1 - after much frustration and designing using low cost components they couldn’t design one that met the high standards they wanted. Then they looked at what would happen if they used the expensive components, but purchased them in extreme bulk - which allowed them to actually get considerably higher quality components, but utilise IKEA’s method of large scale manufacturing to get a sun €1 bulb that had high quality components.
This was many years ago so the price is no longer as good, but thought you’d find it interesting
The nostalgia of IKEA and ethos appearing in the same sentence. IKEA is now basically "Global capitalist Poundland"
@@mipmipmipmipmip This lamp, on its own, argues against that. This is a really well designed lamp, focused on high efficiency and high lifespan. vastly superior than the overdriven lamps with inefficient linear regulators you'll get pretty much anywhere else.
@@robertbackhaus8911 Most of their flat pack furniture is crap though.
@@R_Fordedoes anyone else sell similar things for a similar price? I agree plenty of their products aren’t going to last decades, but you’d pay several times as much for something that would (I think, I rarely buy furniture and never “good” stuff), while IKEA seems to hit the “good enough” mark at an affordable price.
At least the quality has improved greatly, the first IKEA LED bulbs lasted about a year but the last I bought about four years ago still shines...
I work in appliance development, and the story behind the british flag on the EU efficency label is hilarious.
After Brexit, the UK wanted their own efficency rating system. But the EU regulation does not allow for any other efficency label to be shipped with the appliance to avoid confusion.
Which ment that if the UK insisted on their own label, all products would have to be UK specific, which would cause prices to spike dramatically and many companies would simply not bother anymore.
So, the compromise they arrived at was that as long as the only thing that changed was the flag, they could do that.
Brexit in a microcosm!
can't beat a bit of bureaucracy eh
🤡
The post 2019 EU rating system is amazing. All a tier bulbs are definitely the best money can buy so no need to use up time researching
I can confirm the second one 'reviewed' is the Solhetta bulb. I know this because I have plenty of those and did some mod experiments already. I made a kitchen lamp with it, with 6 panels stripped (components) and one panel with a driver, a total of 7 panels on one driver! Works great, removes the heat, very energy efficient (I measured 3.4W) and plenty of light (points). It runs for about 0.75 year now and it is great. I did similar the first time with another IKEA bulb and with 5 panels (I call this version Frankenstein ;-) ). Still going strong.
The first one I made was easier because the driver can be easily separated from the panel like the first one you showed us. It is very easy to take one driver and a few panels. Because there is a current limit this is possible and the current for each panel is divided by the number of panels used in parallel to the driver. Benefits: No heat, last forever, more light points that can spread the light (compensation for 1/x current) and you have plenty spare drivers/components.
If you want to do the same I did, buy the bulbs from the same batch because the manufacturer can change the electronics inside (for example new lower cost version) but can be still the same product name.
Love to see how you did all that..
I was working on an idea like that with MR16 downlights, gutting three and using the driver of one to driver all three. Brings the temps way down. I just have to make it some what more "non ugly" before I'll be allowed to put it up lol
p.s. every led "bulb" I've ever had fail it was the driver, never the LEDs. But then removing the LEDs from the driver housing should make it last much longer I assume.
Lamp with longer top contact is a rudimentary design from older models, where connection between board and E27 was made via connector, so you can easily place and take out driver from lamp body without soldering, etc. Older Osram 10W lamps which look identically were made like that, in fact they were made on the same production line, Leedarson as i know.
Interesting to see the EU / UK regulation reset trying to combat the trend of too-few LEDs pushed too hard to save a buck while reducing their lifespan and efficiency. I wonder if we'll see any knock-on effect of that here in the US. It'd be nice to have some metric when comparing bulbs to know which ones will actually last in hard-to-reach fittings.
I did recently purchase a bunch of over-powered bulbs for those fittings, with a plan to hack them to a lower spec, thanks to your advice on this.
I did replace E14 40W 230V satin incadescdent Lamps in a double chandelier with 1,4W Filamente styles Led when i was younger.... Now i am 34years and none of them have failed 😂
How do I know? They are on a pir sensor and I have zero replacement bulbs and I can't reach them without a wooden construction in the hallway😂
Ebay "cheap" ones 48 pieces came to a whooping 140€ years ago...🎉🎉
It is possible to make them last ❤
@@kitecattestecke2303 its 'luck' as to how hard they drive the led chips...
I don't exactly remember how long ago, but every LED driven bulb/fluorescent tube replacement i've bought so far has survived since i bought them.
The fist one must be hitting its seventh year so far. Though i don't have them powered all the time.
Either way, i used to replace incandescent bulbs every 6-9 months and over time that cost me as much as one of these LED bulbs and TIME and ANNOYANCE.
I am so happy that LED just works better.
@@RealCadde they will vary depending on quality and design ,worst one i had was about a couple of months, longest so far , couple of years or so, still going, but as its in a partly enclosed fitting, it gets quite hot..
Look at the fine print directly on the bulbs. You want ones which specifically say they are suitable for use in enclosed fixtures. Also calculate the lumens per watt, which AFAIK is what the A-F scales do.
_"FLOOMPENLAMPENBLOOMPEN"_ does describe it well, Clive.
Well, it's what the Swedish Chef would have said, isn't it?
It is indeed what the Swedish chef would say. The actual Swedish below reads "eat meatballs".
The correct Swedish word is "flumpelampeblump". Floompenlampenbloompen is actually dutch. Common mistake.
"Eating meatballs" is the correct translation of "äta köttbullar". "Eat meatballs" would be "ät köttbullar".
@@Scartkabelin german, we say alpenrampenampellampen
The last Solhetta was close enough. The word means Sun heat, the heat felt from the sun shining.
I have a bunch of Philips LEDs that have the exact same design and similar component choice as the 6W Solhetta. Wouldn't be surprised if Philips was the OEM for IKEA LEDs. Also, IKEA has a dimmable 6W 806lm version as well, would be interesting to see if there are any differences.
I should have bought a dimmable one too.
More likely, Phillips and Ikea are getting the same company in China to build them.
@@OmegaSparky Philips lighting is actually a company called Signify these days. They have quite a lot of operations in China. The bits of Philips that aren’t actually Philips are doing a lot better than the bits that are still Philips.
@@katrinabrycesed to work at a company owned by Philips before they threw their entire entertainment lighting branch to the Chinese after closing us down, then rebranded to Signify.
Philips wanted to focus on their healthcare and industrial divisions at the time.
I think that was around the same time the division managers changed hands a couple times over 5 years after the "reduce costs, claim bonus and resign" fad tore through.
@@katrinabryce The only bit of Philips that is still Philips is the medical tech division. That says a lot about a company that started out making light bulbs over a century ago.
IKEA stuff may appear cheap or tacky to many but it's quite evident, especially in breakdowns like these, that they're really not there to scam you or sell dangerous products. They're just a bit over decent for a good price (being like £1-2 per lamp) and should be held in a high regard.
Notice the bench bow as Clive uses "unreasonable" force.... 8-).
If iKea makes bulbs any more difficult to open, we might have to contribute to Clive needing a stronger bench!
Regards,
K Watt.
As a Swede, I love your pronunciation of "the heat of the sun".
Thanks Big Clive. Interesting exploration as always!
There is a stark component count difference between the simple ones and the more well engineered ones. Thanks for the insight Clive.
I'm not so sure this type is better engineered. The linear regulators are super simple and have low electrical noise.
when i was a kid, i never expected to watch a BGB packaged engineer tearing apart light bulbs and detailing the schematics, you save me so much money on electronics!! uhhh i dont actually know of a single product you've taken apart that prevented me from opening something but it could happen! also i probably learned stuff about electronics i didnt already know, thanks!!
whats a bgb? ball grid bear? bad giggily brunch? bollywood greymatter brain? barely gooey bananas? take your pick if any of these fit better!
SOLHETTA = SUN HEAT (as in heat from the sun, you can feel the "sun heat")
Almost nailed the pronunciation. o in Swedish is longer as in English in 'pool' other than that, perfect.
I thought one of the bulbs may have been designed to be also made as a bayonet cap variant. There were three hohes in the plastic where the centre was used for the cap spike in the one you destroyed/reverse engineered. Great to see these videos - don't know how you do it in the time. Phil
The triangular glue blob is silkscreened on just like solderpaste so the triangle is there for another reason. I would bet it is there to show the orientation needed as those boards are put through a wave solder machine. The glue keeps the small components from falling off while they are immersed in solder.
Both lamps are amazing we have them all over the house with no issues, purchased lamps from the likes of B&M and haven’t lasted long one of which was 100w equivalent and it was getting dimmer ever so slightly
Nice video Clive I chuckled at your “Stud in the bottom” lol😂
was wondering about that rating thing, thanks for clearing that up I thought it was just manufacturers found a new way of cheaping out
An ad in the middle of your vid. That's new Clive?!
Great exploration as usual. 👍🏻😀🇬🇧
It's a test.
Zee datasheet - love it! Shout out to Ralfy whose love for Whisky lured me in and subsequently sent me down this awsome rabbit hole here… among the best channels on YT.
I like the bridge rectifier built straight into the driver chip design. I prefer the buck regulator bulbs, as they work well with half-wave DC input, that I have in some of my circuits. They can also handle a wide range of input voltages, both AC and DC.
"Ikea "bucked" the trend ... " Good one Clive! LOL
Brilliant! I was hoping you would make a beard trimmer from the lamp base. Yet, I am not disappointed.
These thumbnails keep getting better! 😆
I checked my box, both of them are 3.4 W. So someone has been swapping lamps.
The sense resistors are indeed on a separate board, and not on the LED board. This makes it almost impossable to tame down the lamp, just in case you want a 1 W lamp.
On a plus note, the higher power lamp does have the sense resistors on the front (12 ohm and 8.2 ohm in parallel). So lopping one off lets you choose a lower power rating. (More info in the description.)
What a lucky man! Got two different lamps to tear down for the price of one package!😃
Unexpected twofer. Nice!
Hi Clive, it would be nice if you could explain in a future video how current sensing works in this type of lamps or even in general. I was just searching youtube and I couldn’t find any good reference for those circuits. Thanks for the video!
Most use a simple low value resistor and measure the voltage across it. The higher the voltage, the higher the current.
Lots of outlets in the UK sells light bulbs with Edison socket. Sadly in my home all light fixtures and chandeliers require UK bayonet light bulbs. Most of the other homes I've seen only use bayonet light bulbs, both standard and small.
I have no use for the E27 Edison light bulbs to this moment.
The UK is peculiar. Many appliances that in Europe comes with a charger or a power adapter, are shipped to the UK without one, because of the non-standard power plug.
Thank you for the video,
Greetings
Anthony
You can get adaptors from BC to ES.
That 50k resistor in the second lamp is putting in a lot of work. Almost half a watt by my calculations
Curiously, there is a "2861" IC by Diodes Inc. for driving LEDs but with a dimming function.
_"folded these little panty flaps over on the-the panty wings"_
LOL.
We got our money's worth this time. Two designs in one box!
Clive these IKEA bulbs are interesting especially the current regulation one where they set the current through the LEDS with a low ohm resistor, they remind me of the LED bulbs I bought from china back in april 2022 I bought 5pcs of 18W where I had 18 leds in a string. They used a brightpower BP2863 buck regulator and the current was set through a 1.6ohm resistor I changed it to 4.7ohm dropping the output more in half they ended up at 55-60Wish, been using them regularly over a year and I think they will last for a long long time. At the 4min20sec marker can the other two holes be for GU10?
Yes looks like GU10 spacing, or even B22D, with the appropriate pins in the base crimped on.
But how do you close the lamps properly again?
The ikea lamps I've bought have been really quite reliable. I've actually been a bit upset about the poor reliability of led light bulbs in general (lasting far less than incandescent bulbs).
Ah, another LED lamp executed ;)
By the way - can't remember if I stated this already as comment to one of the former lamp videos - you can open those lamps without any observable destruction.
First:
If you've got a stable - preferably ceramic - lampseat, mount the lamp into it. The Seat offers a far better grip, than the lamp thread.
Very often the transparent top comes off without any other tools than your crafty set of hands needed.
Second:
Get your hotair-gun and moderately heat up the thread, after a minute or so you can easily unplug the plastic housing from the thread.
A lamp disassembled this way, can be reassembled showing no signs of damage.
I wonder what the LED configuration of the 120V version would be like?!
Awesome Video big clive
IKEA in-house design or some other OEM?
They also have C rated Solhetta filament type bulbs.
Hi Bigclive, I have been working for ikea for a while and during a few changes in range I have been collecting the 400/470lm bulbs one for each generation, would you be interested to take apart 4 generations of bulbs? and see the evolution of the 1€/Pound bulbs over the years?
The first tear down one with thermal conductive plastic housing is how everyone i have taken apart to fix has been most common design in US market only one i have seen in a bunch of bulb teardowns
Ikea was doing a few bulbs with a C rating energy rating last time I was in. You should get some bulbs from Toolstation as they do a few surface mount bulbs with an A energy rating, 3.8w 806lm for the cool while and the other is actually a B rating and uses 4.3w and is 806lm but it is a warm white bulb
Thanks for video !!!
Ikea sells dimmable versions as well. I assume these are the non-dimmable ones. I wonder what the dimmable ones are like inside?
Bonus! It's interesting how different the two are, especially if they're from the same manufacturer.
LEDs are very efficient, and have a long lifespan, especially when run at a low current.
I do not understand why manufacturers use buck regulators, which take a lot of room and can have multiple points of failure, while they could put more LEDs run at a lower current by a linear regulator (or even resistors !), and put an aluminium radiator with cooling fins in place of the buck regulator.
Of course a buck regulator is more efficient, but many LED bulbs fail way before their advertised lifespan, and they consume so little power anyway, that it would make sense to have a bulb 2x less efficient if it can last 2x longer.
Big Clive: Have you ever added another smoothing capacitors in those boards that have the board spaces missing the part? I guess these options were used to either save money or add later to create a "ultra quality"level product.
If the design is based around there being no smoothing cap, it may change the lamps characteristics and possibly cause damage.
Lolol, Äta Köttbullar you crack me up Clive🤣👍🏻
Ikea has recently released a 5.9 W (806 lumens!) variant for the E14 socket, a very small form factor, and this variant is barely larger (just a few mm) than the usual 3.4 W (470 lumens) models we usually encounter on this socket.
It seems Ikea has established a new record for this form factor, and I would be very interested to know how well this model perform, in particular concerning heat dissipation.
Clive: Have you ever looked at Megaman lamps? I recently ordered ten 9.6W B22 units for less than a tenner. Will be very interested to see how long they last...
All the Megaman lamps I've seen have been expensive designer lamps. I'll maybe take a look.
Those SMD components are glued down because they are wave soldered, correct?
@2:09 - This is me trying to open a lamp like Clive. I always resort to my comically large set of vintage Craftsman water pump pliers to help me achieve my goals.
I just picture gif/meme of Fred from scooby Doo pulling the mask off, and it's himself under the mask who has been changing lamps 😂
I think some of the GU10 IKEA lamps are possibly built to the "fewest overrun LEDs, minimum life" design. I've a range of GU10s in my house and I find some of the IKEA ones suffer infant mortality - less than 3 months. Unfortunately they have solid glass envelopes, not plastic, so they would be difficult to take apart to find out what went wrong.
Change over to the Phillips ones they are nice in GU10.. Me got some 3.2W from Phillips when on sale now they are 3,8W GU10 with "warmglow" ... You will like them and out of 24x put into a concealed metal round light none have failed 😊
Usually these type of lamps the front lens is still a separate part siliconed or glued on. I have found some brand all glass GU10 bulbs that had lens come out very easily._
How old are these? I have a load of 2W Solhetta GU10 warm white bought this year. With 230lm output they seemed the most efficient around. They appear to have a reasonable component count from what I can see through the glass package with 8 LEDs, 2 X 4 pin SMT chips of some sort, a small transformer (I think) and 6 or 7 other components. They run very cool and claim 25,000 hours life.
The GU10 housing was never designed for heat dissipation. It's a tough environment for LEDs.
@@simonbeasley989 These are the LEDARE 7.5W 600 lumen 2700K GU10 lamps. The newest purchased within the last year and "taken into stock". I've had several fail if you include their brothers with E27 bases. Now I admit that IKEA make most of the bulbs I have, so you would expect more of them to fail, but one in particular lasted less than 3 months in an IP6 bathroom fitting, so it's a bit of a s@d to change. Its predecessor (not IKEA) had been there 9 years. And there are a good minority of various other brands. Maybe the LEDARE design is now obsolete and I should buy some SOLHETTA ones the next time I'm there - or switch brands to, say, Philips.
My first LED bulbs were from Ikea, back when the 2-packs were ~30$.
I do no regret being an early adopter.
The early LED lamps were often very reliable.
I wasn't paying attention until a long stud up the bottom was mentioned!
Now get one of those candelabra-base bulbs. Damned things look like regular hotwire bulbs, with the glass shell, COB "filaments", and all the electronics in that skinny little base. And a lot of those nowadays are "no flicker" or "no strobe" rated, too.
"They've Glued It On With Silicone And Then Folded These Little Panty Flaps Over On The Panty Wings, To Hold That In Place" 08:25
- You're running hot tonight, Clive. I had to check if indeed I was watching electronic circuit analysis, and not something else.
I tapped that link for 08:25 and immediately got an ad for Always Discreet
Would you be willing to make a video on how to read circuit boards/schematics, I love watching these videos and I can mostly follow along but whenever it gets to the circuit board or schematic reading I'm almost always left confused, Idk how popular the video would be so i cant say if itd be worth the time but i think itd be a great video to help people like me who are still learning or just arent as into electronics.
Possibly Mr Cao Quang Dong Duong had some part in the unusally large 5.1Meg resistor to deploy the design rapidly in higher Voltage countries ?
There a very large IKEA centre at Tempe Sydney down under near my work . Every time I go there, I come out with a seriously bad swedish accent that lasts for days. 😂
I've come to like the Ikea stuff that we have purchased. Mostly the stainless racks and kitchen hangers I have purchased. I wasn't fond of visiting the store, but that's another comment.
I have Solhetta in my work lamp. After hours of continuous use they are not cooking itself, compared to their chinesium counerparts.
Hey Clive, I have a broken UK smart plug I'm wondering if you'd be interested in a destructive disassembly and figure out what went wrong with it?
What is it doing or not doing?
Could you also do a teardown of an ikea smart bulb?
I am officially miffed by the fact that we are mostly offered stupid warm white LEDs and stupid cold white morgue lighting. Why not go for the middle which is the best color temperature for most general lighting?
Agreed. I buy 3300K lamps whenever possible, a pleasant yellowish white rather than the dim oranges or harsh blues that are so bizarrely prevalent. But they can be hard to find.
Agree. I stumbled on 3500K, 900 lumen bulbs that were perfect once. And then Lowes never carried them again. They all died after about several years.
I don't think the long leads on the caps of the 6W lamp are to place them out of the heat. I think it's done so they can fit the entire thing through the hole in the heat sink XD
The fact that they aren't as close to the heat this way is probably just lucky in this case :p
I wouldn't be surprised if the white powery glue is some sort of Boron Nitride Paste compound for thermal conductivity.
How you doing big man? Quick question, have you done any vids on voltage testers? This would be the cheap detector type pens / screwdrivers?
I have one coming up fairly soon. On two types of LED screwdriver testers. One of which has a microcontroller in it.
Hey Clive, I need your advice, two days ago my flat burnt down, my dehumidifier looks like it decided to go up in smoke, what the hell could have caused it tk fail so badly? Also this channel got my actually into electronics in the first place, is it worth continuing on as a hobby, or is there some point in your life where you wish you'd just left it alone - part of me worries they'll try and blame me some how because I was I the middle of a few radio and tv restorations
There's a terrible history of dehumidifiers bursting into flames and I'm not sure why. Maybe the motor capacitor failing with flames or an electronic failure.
If you know the make and model do a search to see if it has a history.
Nice score...two for the price of two :)
Does one of these lamps allow the trick of removing one resistor to lower the brightness and by this increase the lifespan?
That was covered in the video and description. One is easier to hack than the other.
Some time ago they had launched a campaign of cheap light bulbs at 1 euro per unit, but these light bulbs had a very bad lifespan. Some time later they disappeared and these sets of 2 lamps appeared, more efficient in terms of consumption and it seems that they are also reliable, however a little more expensive
Bonus 2 for1 tear down, and total different insides. Will the buck regulator help with the power factor??
No. It won't help with power factor much. It's still down at 0.5
@@bigclivedotcom It's unfortunate, as with some slightly more complex internal circuitry in that "do it all" second IC, it could have built-in PFC and a nice power factor. That would be one benefit over a capacitive dropper.
@@henryokeeffe5835 maybe if it didnt have any smoothing cap after the rectifier, would be better power factor? might not be too flickery as the regulator should be able to stabilise the current with varying input volts within limits...??? some chips data sheets even show use with and without a cap
@@andygozzo72 Yep, that would help if the chip's designed to start up that quickly.
Hello.
What about IKEA SOLHETTA LED E27 1521 lm 95mm big light bulb?
This bulb has B energetic class and potential to long life thanks big body and maybe better heat dissipation.
So nice.
In the US, everything has theft-indicative stickers over the box flaps to prevent product swapping like this.
"Somebodies been stuffing boxes" Woah!
With the new energy rating system, Crompton Lamps have created a small range of ultra efficient LED bulbs that are A rated on the new scale and use LED filaments. They claim to use about half the power of a standard LED lamp for the same light output
Have they used the approach of using lots more LED filaments than usual?
Like eggs, I always open the box to check the contents before I buy.😀
that was a lucky random with that odd circuit in the mismatched one :)
I like adding capacitors to the Amazon LEDs, for 0 flicker and soft on/off
be careful, depending where the cap is, it may cause higher dissipation in the regulator chip, if it uses one
So, it's 2700K. What's its CRI, Color Rendition Index? Most of these lamps have terrible color rendition no matter what the color temperature. Their spectra are full of spikes.
It says >80 on the box. So it is crap.
The shifting of goalposts... Erm efficiency grades.
How can this lamp be converted to 12 VDC ? This would be useful during a power outage.
It can't. But you can get 12V lamps.
I am afraid i have to show my obvious lack of elwctronics understanding as.... I always thought that the purpose of adding a resistor in a circuit was to reduce the power going through a said circuit? so can someone please explain to me why taking a resistor out of a circuit will effectively reduce the power ??? Clive? please educate me
It's a sense resistor in parallel with another one. Removing it increases the value and lower the current to achieve the same sense voltage across the resistor.
4000k is a nice colour
Oh goddamnit Clive, I genuinely believed “floompenlampenbloompen” and wanted to hear you say it :(
You have to say it like the Swedish Chef on the Muppet Show.
LOL
People never measure these for RFI/EMP ratings. Some of the LED lamp power supplies might make good mini diathermy machines.
yep, you can bet they'd swamp out AM radio
Might not be an internal diode, might be another MOSFET to do synchronous switching
Is that thing for absorbing something, since it has wings?
It absorbs the tears of Karens.
Surprised we didn't see the "how over-/under-driven are the LEDs" measurement/computation on these
A floopenlampenbloomper? I'll take a dozen!
Where did IKEA lead them?
I wonder if by the end of the year we see the first cheap 1000lm 6W LED lamps where they also don't push the LEDs too hard.
Now they need to be about 10W to get 1.000lm, so I think not (yet). Not cheap, anyway.
@@DashCamSerbia The technology for >100lm/W already exists since about 5 years.
@@kyoudaiken Yeah, so does the stem cell technology, does not mean it is accessible and cheap.
I wonder about the 25000 hour life? The 1uF 400V capacitor looks like a weak link, especially if it gets warm. Are there any experts out there who would like to comment?
I bought these and was amazed by the price. Someone put one in the loft light despite my concerns about condensation and LED bulbs in an unheated space. The bulb died in a matter of days! Halogen it is...
Yes, that was always the advantage of old-fashioned tungsten filament lamps. I have some in outdoor locations where they rarely get used and they're still working after nearly 30 years.
Several ikea LEDs I've used recently have ended up flickering when turning on, which clears when they warm up. It's annoying but i really don't want to chuck them prematurely.
oo er, plain 'dumb' ones or colour changing/smart things?
The current culprit is an LED1514G13 E27 2700K and when i say warms up, I mean REALLY warms up.