I ordered a 18v panel and through a comedy of errors I received a 36v panel, swapping it out was too much of a mission for the supplier so I decided to keep it. I needed it for an ecoflow river and needed max 24v and 12 amps. I just finished the conversion. Mine was not as neat but it works great, thanks so much from silly south africa
Nice. Thank you very much. I knew I could gain access to all of the cells individually and divide 36 by 3 to get 12, but I didnt want to chop them all up. Just chop them into 3 sections for the 12 volts. It looks like youve done all the homework for me. Much obliged. 👍👍👍
I just did this. It worked. My panels are now 12v 21A down from 36v 7A. My cables exit the box on the outer 2 bars so I cut those bars on the far left and far right and bridged to the center. I didn't need a dremmel, just a sharp box knife (with extra blades), strippers, wire cutters, sharpie, drill with 3/8 bit, flashlight, needle nose, silicone, solder, flux and a soldering gun. It took less than an hour per panel. I got a great deal on an mppt controller but the voltage was still too high to work on a 12v battery. Instead of buying another battery or controller, I did this and it's working perfectly. You saved my ass! Big thanks.
Thanks for this great video! I’ve loved it from start to finish. Just completed my first conversion of a 335w panel off the side of the rd. Got my 140amp battery ready to go and will hook it up to my fridge (also off the side of the rd!) I love scavenging and recycling so this has been bloody good fun Thanks again Nick Bell
but how does this work? if the panels are 36v and then connect the cells parallel as shown, you'd get 12v and not 15v. to charge the batteries you need at least 13.5 v or so. how many volts was your panel and what's the output?
@@RichardJucewicz simplest solution is to get a charge controller that can handle the 36volt input and supports 12 volt battery. I did the mod like in video . What you end up with is actually 18volt in full sunlight which is fine if you have a stepdown converter to regulate the voltage . The cost would be the same but better if you have charge controller. I got mine less than 100$ SRNE is the brand. true mppt and works well. I put panel back to original configuration and use the charge controller.
Bonjour OzSolarPower, je suis ici à Madagascar, à cause de l'ignorance, j'ai vendu un panneau solaire de 36v et j'ai acheté des régulateurs et des batteries mais ils sont tous grillés, c'est vraiment un commerce de merde à Mada an, il profite l'ignorance des gens. Maintenant, mes yeux sont ouverts et je vous remercie énormément, mille merci à vous et que je souhaite que vos bricolages et vos recherches s'améliorent, merci merci merci
Thank you I got solar panel for free 36v but my REDARC BCDC BATTERY CHARGER was turning off because it was to much ⚡ volt the range was 9-32v so I watch your video and it work thank you 😊 save me $
had a lead acid battery system for years. just upgraded to lipo . i have 3 times the available power than the same ah capacity agm . no power fade for start up loads that trip out the agm system. and a bms that extends the life of my system. (i had one cell at a time go at half life of the agm system). so my suggestion is that a lead acid system is a definite step backwards and unless you need a very small system should be avoided. this hack is fine for the agm or flooded battery but some systems wont start charging untill a higher than 14.6 v supply is available. the solution is dedicated 12v panels. and off the shelf charge controllers. this hack provides that from roof top panels. spend the money saved from panels on your battery pack well worth it
Would a buck converter work for this as well? Would the reduction from 36v->12v mean there are more amps on the wire? Would the stock connectors handle the load? That sounds like an awesome deal you got there, good for you man! Thanks for the upload.
Great idea Tin man .but don't forget to add a diode on the positive to prevent battery draining into the panel at night. Love your old videos bring back the pulse motors, especially the lenzless motor design 👍
A tribute !! Our world is full of good people, regardless of beliefs, or no beliefs, who want to do "the right thing", sharing what they can.for a better world. Edward Dickson Williams, also known as Patrick Kelly, author of the "Practical Guide to Free Energy Devices" passed away on Saturday, July 11, 2020 Rest in peace Patrick Kelly. You did a great job for Free Energy! Thank you. Sincerely, Henrique from Brasil =============== Uma homenagem !! Nosso mundo está cheio pessoas boas,independentemente de crenças, ou nenhuma crença, que desejam fazer a "a coisa certa",compartilhando o que podem.por um mundo melhor. Edward Dickson Williams, também conhecido como Patrick Kelly , autor do "Guia prático de dispositivos de energia livre" faleceu no sábado, 11 de julho de 2020 Descanse em paz Patrick Kelly. Você fez um ótimo trabalho pela Energia Livre! Muito Obrigado. Atenciosamente,Henrique from Brasil
This works but its impractical, your only getting a maximum of 14volts in perfect weather conditions, soon as cloud cover happens the volts drop below 12v somewhere around 7v and you miss out on solar power. You are better off halving the solar panel to 18v (splitting straight down the middle) and running a solar panel charger. Most 12v solar panel set up's run well over 14.6V for this reason.
Very interesting . Still can't work out why theirs 2 layers you need to cut throu. Is because theirs bus bars passing over the middle array? Without diodes will the pannel discharge the battery at night?
Thanks for the video. Everything seemed to go well but on completion I am only getting around 12 volts and it drops 2 volts as soon as the multimeter is connected to it. Any ideas would be grateful.
phoned up me local solar company, and asked him if he has any old working ones going, he reply, how many do you wont for free, :), he was disappointed I said only one to put on me camper van :),
Does this work with mppt controllers? My understanding at the moment is that all of these controllers require input voltage > battery charger voltage (14V) to work. Can anyone confirm if this is true or not for all of them? Was hopeful in using this as cheap source for van, but I jumped on the combined alternator charger + mppt, which has max input voltage of 25V
Hello. Do you perhaps have any thoughts of rebuulding the robert alexander motor again? This time following the description and not the fake diagrams. The diagrams doesn't even have any transformer windings. "Using the transformer core as a rotor" is not even seen by the diagrams. How about using the stator of a synchronous motor as a transformer? This will be the true robert alexander motor, which is what I rediscovered.
Great video, I've just bought 4 250w panels with an identical layout, except the diodes. It's got 6 instead of 3. Not sure what the idea is behind taking them out? I'd be interested in your comments. I'll leave the positive one in I think but am no expert so a bit lost...
Greetings all - I have done this to two Trina 195W panels and on both occasions when I connect them to a Renogy Rover (MPPT) It shows Nothing! It's as if the panel doesn't exist!!! However when disconnect from the Rover and investigated with a multi-meter it shows 13.9 Volts and 14.5 Amps. It leaves me wondering why the M.P.P.T. reg doesn't recognize it. BTW it work quit well otherwise see below. . Do you think I should try a PWM regulator? I originally purchased 4 panels for this experiment and have the remaining two which are un-hacked, wired in parallel feeding the M.P.P.T. controller and doing good but only putting out 10 amps and in my book that is too much hardware & weight to take camping for that output. In short I would much prefer the single panel as made here. I know that in theory I don't need a regulator but I have just spent a small fortune on two AGM batteries for the camper and don't want to blow their warranty ... Do you think I should try connecting it to a P.W.M. controller? If anyone has any suggestions don't be shy... One last thing and this is very important - I have been wondering how to turn 36v into 12vdc for the last three months and Your solution has been the best to date thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort to show us how it's done :)
Mppts operate at a higher voltage then the nominal battery voltage..if you mppt can handle if you say 4 panels making it 48volts so put all your panels in series so that mppt can work well. Or you can go for 2 strings of 24volt connected in parallel feeding ur mppt controller at 24volt and 20amps
Question, please: Can I just connect three 12V batteries in series to an essential 36v battery system? Would that be compatible with my 36V solar panels? Thanks
Well it wil charge but for better charging it would be wise to have ur solar panel voltage abit higher then your battery voltage. 40-45volt would be required to charge it
Exactly what I have been look for, to convert my 36Volts pannel to 12Volts. Great video
I ordered a 18v panel and through a comedy of errors I received a 36v panel, swapping it out was too much of a mission for the supplier so I decided to keep it. I needed it for an ecoflow river and needed max 24v and 12 amps. I just finished the conversion. Mine was not as neat but it works great, thanks so much from silly south africa
Nice. Thank you very much. I knew I could gain access to all of the cells individually and divide 36 by 3 to get 12, but I didnt want to chop them all up. Just chop them into 3 sections for the 12 volts. It looks like youve done all the homework for me. Much obliged. 👍👍👍
I just did this. It worked. My panels are now 12v 21A down from 36v 7A. My cables exit the box on the outer 2 bars so I cut those bars on the far left and far right and bridged to the center. I didn't need a dremmel, just a sharp box knife (with extra blades), strippers, wire cutters, sharpie, drill with 3/8 bit, flashlight, needle nose, silicone, solder, flux and a soldering gun. It took less than an hour per panel. I got a great deal on an mppt controller but the voltage was still too high to work on a 12v battery. Instead of buying another battery or controller, I did this and it's working perfectly. You saved my ass! Big thanks.
Have you any video ? If you have, please give that link
Does the wattage stay the same as volts x amps = watts
@@mdriponhossain83 I tried... didn't work out.
@@julianvelay5260 same exact wattage
Thanks for this great video!
I’ve loved it from start to finish.
Just completed my first conversion of a 335w panel off the side of the rd. Got my 140amp battery ready to go and will hook it up to my fridge (also off the side of the rd!)
I love scavenging and recycling so this has been bloody good fun
Thanks again
Nick Bell
the battery will never reach full charge whilst there is any real load on it did this hack 8 yrs ago complete failure
just did this Mod today . easy to do and works well !!! panels are not going to waste , Thanks very much great idea !!!
but how does this work? if the panels are 36v and then connect the cells parallel as shown, you'd get 12v and not 15v. to charge the batteries you need at least 13.5 v or so. how many volts was your panel and what's the output?
@@RichardJucewicz ever get an answer for this?
@@stygianindustries8295 sorry I only see your question now. Still unclear as of yet. How about you? Anything news on this?
@@RichardJucewicz simplest solution is to get a charge controller that can handle the 36volt input and supports 12 volt battery. I did the mod like in video . What you end up with is actually 18volt in full sunlight which is fine if you have a stepdown converter to regulate the voltage . The cost would be the same but better if you have charge controller. I got mine less than 100$ SRNE is the brand. true mppt and works well. I put panel back to original configuration and use the charge controller.
Bonjour OzSolarPower, je suis ici à Madagascar, à cause de l'ignorance, j'ai vendu un panneau solaire de 36v et j'ai acheté des régulateurs et des batteries mais ils sont tous grillés, c'est vraiment un commerce de merde à Mada an, il profite l'ignorance des gens. Maintenant, mes yeux sont ouverts et je vous remercie énormément, mille merci à vous et que je souhaite que vos bricolages et vos recherches s'améliorent, merci merci merci
Thank you I got solar panel for free 36v but my REDARC BCDC BATTERY CHARGER was turning off because it was to much ⚡ volt the range was 9-32v so I watch your video and it work thank you 😊 save me $
Thanks for the video, has been a big help in me doing the same with my solar panel, cheers.
Well explained, good info
had a lead acid battery system for years. just upgraded to lipo . i have 3 times the available power than the same ah capacity agm . no power fade for start up loads that trip out the agm system. and a bms that extends the life of my system. (i had one cell at a time go at half life of the agm system). so my suggestion is that a lead acid system is a definite step backwards and unless you need a very small system should be avoided. this hack is fine for the agm or flooded battery but some systems wont start charging untill a higher than 14.6 v supply is available. the solution is dedicated 12v panels. and off the shelf charge controllers. this hack provides that from roof top panels. spend the money saved from panels on your battery pack well worth it
Exactly what I was doing before I sought confirmation, loveyour work.
Would a buck converter work for this as well? Would the reduction from 36v->12v mean there are more amps on the wire? Would the stock connectors handle the load? That sounds like an awesome deal you got there, good for you man! Thanks for the upload.
Great idea Tin man .but don't forget to add a diode on the positive to prevent battery draining into the panel at night. Love your old videos bring back the pulse motors, especially the lenzless motor design 👍
Yes! Tin man times were very interesting to watch.
The solar panel is a diode,so no need to add one.
A tribute !!
Our world is full of good people, regardless of beliefs, or no beliefs, who want to do "the right thing", sharing what they can.for a better world.
Edward Dickson Williams, also known as Patrick Kelly, author of the "Practical Guide to Free Energy Devices" passed away on Saturday, July 11, 2020
Rest in peace Patrick Kelly. You did a great job for Free Energy!
Thank you.
Sincerely, Henrique from Brasil
===============
Uma homenagem !!
Nosso mundo está cheio pessoas boas,independentemente de crenças, ou nenhuma crença, que desejam fazer a "a coisa certa",compartilhando o que podem.por um mundo melhor.
Edward Dickson Williams, também conhecido como Patrick Kelly , autor do "Guia prático de dispositivos de energia livre" faleceu no sábado, 11 de julho de 2020
Descanse em paz Patrick Kelly. Você fez um ótimo trabalho pela Energia Livre!
Muito Obrigado.
Atenciosamente,Henrique from Brasil
So sad. This video really helped me
This works but its impractical, your only getting a maximum of 14volts in perfect weather conditions, soon as cloud cover happens the volts drop below 12v somewhere around 7v and you miss out on solar power. You are better off halving the solar panel to 18v (splitting straight down the middle) and running a solar panel charger. Most 12v solar panel set up's run well over 14.6V for this reason.
got to love a ozy
Good work buddy
Very interesting . Still can't work out why theirs 2 layers you need to cut throu. Is because theirs bus bars passing over the middle array? Without diodes will the pannel discharge the battery at night?
This is it. Thank you
Hi 👋now 11 months on my solar panel still working well
Very informative.
What about splitting a 36volt panel down to 2 x18 volt and add an mppt charge controller 👍
Great video. Im not getting much more than 1 to 2 amps in full sunlight. What have I done wrong.
Thanks for the video.
Everything seemed to go well but on completion I am only getting around 12 volts and it drops 2 volts as soon as the multimeter is connected to it.
Any ideas would be grateful.
phoned up me local solar company, and asked him if he has any old working ones going, he reply, how many do you wont for free, :), he was disappointed I said only one to put on me camper van :),
I found it tricky to solder the wires onto the buzz bars. Any tips?
25w soldering iron.
Nice
Would it be ok with it being 12v and more watts wouldn't you want thinker wires for the more watts
Does this work with mppt controllers?
My understanding at the moment is that all of these controllers require input voltage > battery charger voltage (14V) to work. Can anyone confirm if this is true or not for all of them?
Was hopeful in using this as cheap source for van, but I jumped on the combined alternator charger + mppt, which has max input voltage of 25V
Hello. Do you perhaps have any thoughts of rebuulding the robert alexander motor again? This time following the description and not the fake diagrams. The diagrams doesn't even have any transformer windings. "Using the transformer core as a rotor" is not even seen by the diagrams.
How about using the stator of a synchronous motor as a transformer? This will be the true robert alexander motor, which is what I rediscovered.
Great video, I've just bought 4 250w panels with an identical layout, except the diodes. It's got 6 instead of 3. Not sure what the idea is behind taking them out? I'd be interested in your comments. I'll leave the positive one in I think but am no expert so a bit lost...
Don't touch em at all. Unless you are going to use more panels.
I’m wondering how many times do you need to tell us “grind”? Where’s the buzz bar? lol
Are you still working on the Venturi project?
Greetings all - I have done this to two Trina 195W panels and on both occasions when I connect them to a Renogy Rover (MPPT) It shows Nothing! It's as if the panel doesn't exist!!! However when disconnect from the Rover and investigated with a multi-meter it shows 13.9 Volts and 14.5 Amps. It leaves me wondering why the M.P.P.T. reg doesn't recognize it. BTW it work quit well otherwise see below. . Do you think I should try a PWM regulator?
I originally purchased 4 panels for this experiment and have the remaining two which are un-hacked, wired in parallel feeding the M.P.P.T. controller and doing good but only putting out 10 amps and in my book that is too much hardware & weight to take camping for that output. In short I would much prefer the single panel as made here. I know that in theory I don't need a regulator but I have just spent a small fortune on two AGM batteries for the camper and don't want to blow their warranty ... Do you think I should try connecting it to a P.W.M. controller? If anyone has any suggestions don't be shy... One last thing and this is very important - I have been wondering how to turn 36v into 12vdc for the last three months and Your solution has been the best to date thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort to show us how it's done :)
Mppts operate at a higher voltage then the nominal battery voltage..if you mppt can handle if you say 4 panels making it 48volts so put all your panels in series so that mppt can work well. Or you can go for 2 strings of 24volt connected in parallel feeding ur mppt controller at 24volt and 20amps
i done this to a canadian solar panel only get 11volts 20 in full sun any ideas what wrong
I just got some 390 watt panels for 170 each
Common law community get involved South Australia
Q CELLS Q.PEAK DUO BLK-G5 315
That's the one I need to turn into 24v. I have a mmpt it mttp or mppt controller
Bought 6 250 watt panels for 300 bucks Bargain
PMBO 2020
Question, please: Can I just connect three 12V batteries in series to an essential 36v battery system? Would that be compatible with my 36V solar panels? Thanks
Well it wil charge but for better charging it would be wise to have ur solar panel voltage abit higher then your battery voltage. 40-45volt would be required to charge it
Can I do this on a 48v
I’m out riding the virus...
painfully slow