@@scotthill1600 Mercedes decided that commercial vehicles like that typically don't have a long lifespan with their first owner anyway and cheaped out on galvanizing and paint. At least in the first generation, that's why they rust much more than most cars from that era.
@@taylormullis4942 What he did is called back taping, just about every good body shop does it, it just makes it a lot easier to blend in your primer, makes less sanding to get rid of the line
Fantastic. I have a couple of spots on my van that need attention, my paint just arrived so the timing of this video couldn’t be any better. Quite possibly the best 54 second video on CZcams
DO NOT WET SAND BODY FILLER!! It is extremely porous and will hold on to water if it gets wet which can cause adhesion problems down the road and even cause the rust to come back.
*Thank you,* I did not know that. I appreciate the information and subsequent education. You sir have a fantastic day, week, month, year *and* the rest of you life. 👍
@@thehighwayman78 no, filler always goes directly on metal. Ideally you don't even want any of the old finish under your filler. Sand away the old finish, get your body work as close to perfect as possible, then apply filler. You want the body work to be within an eighth of an inch before applying putty. Then you prime your repair
@@thehighwayman78put etch primer on first then fill as otherwise youre not protecting the metal in the slightest. But definitely avoid spraying water on the filler 400/800 grit evenly tends to be high enough to paint over and not see the grit marks underneath
@@xxn0cturn3xx Or you have no clue about body repairs, rust converter doesnt stop rust, especially if its rusted on both sides and you "repair" only that part that is on the outside, normal people would give warranty for 1year with repair like this.
@@Light-Painter If you're going to do what he did there's absolutely no point in using rust preventer/converter. The whole point of using it is so that you don't have to sand and grind it away to bare metal.
@@Light-Painterwhat evidence does the video give that its the right way? It reacts with the rust to form a protective layer. If you sand all the rust away afterwards there is no point in using it. Putting water on it makes it react better, a little sanding afterwards is OK, because it shouldn't be left on not rusted metal. Then prime and fill.
There’s not much to choose from! Either sprinter or a transit and you’ll have to deal with rust, or ducato/relay/boxer with gutless engines and very poor cab interiors/sound control. I’ve heard crafters post 2013 (I think) are galvanised- so that’s probably a good option.
Once I've cleaned rust of any metal.i use red oxide primer .... always had great results I may be wrong but each to there own great job btw ..... not too much filler too looks like you just got to it in time !
Rust preventer is usually just phosphoric acid, you can get concentrated PA much cheaper, water it down a bit and a liter bottle will last you a very long time.
Mercedes, MOPAR, NISSAN took off the Zink plating that was introduced in the 80s to prevent this horror. I fixed many GMs ,Jeeps in the early 80s with rust spots like this on new cars with 6 miles from dealerships. The body fillers needed to be changed to adhere to this plating. Ok back were we started from!!!
Good for at least six months. Fiberglass filler helps. Often with a rusty spot the rest of the nearby panel has got some interior corrosion already festering and will show itself soon.
@@ltmltm4945 Cut the rust metal out altogether and weld a patch in. It is the only way. What is shown in the video - most likely there is already rust on the inside. All that work is useless. Unless, yeah, you have to sell it in a jiffy. Then it is somebody else's problem.
Use a grinder, then 180, keep the spot as small as possible. Then flatten the spot with sand paper p400 at max. Tape off the spot, primer it twice, Sand it again with 400, put ground paint on it, sand it again Lightly and then use paint. Then Sand the whole part in a whole and spray it. Tip: close your eyes and feel. What youre feeling is what your going to see, when applying 2 layers of primer, make sure the 1st one is dry and hard. Also, before painting, use amonia with water to make it free from grease.
You either have a van in primer colors, or - if the 'top coat' (aka final thing to add, because it is the... top. coat.) is the desired color - you don't add a clear coat..? I thought all cars have a clear coat on top of the paint. As for the rust: nicely done. (Though i don't understand the extra step of rust removal after the rust removal; very thorough... and most likely a fix that will not have the issue return suddenly. Well done)
You should look into POR15 if you have places that are prone to rusting. It treats metal so it won't rust again, and also stops spreading of rust. A little pricey, but worth it
As a professional accident repair and paint technician I must say you did a very good job! Most people that are not in the trade do a terrible job. Well done 😊🎉
Hi bud your totally right, If I got filler wet I would in most cases re do the whole filler job as its not worth the risk of bubbling the paint in the future but It's hopefully degreaser in that bottle? at least it's what I'd use :) For what seems like someone not in the trade I am pretty impressed with OP for the most part :)
Hi, I don't think so otherwise how did he grind it all down from the outside without going through the other side leaving a hole or more rust? Didn't look like it to me, but even so I was only commenting on the little bit that I could see in the short clip 😅
You should have ground the rust out completely before putting the phosphoric acid on it. Sanding the metal afterwards removes the protection that the acid provides. It's a chemical reaction with the steel to prevent further rust. It's not just a "rust converter."
@@ltmltm4945 I would sand it with a Dremel after using the rust converter, because most rust converters barely do anything, so sanding down to bare metal would be better, and actually you can probably just skip the rust converter part, sand to bare metal ensuring no rust is left, use a body filler to fill in the sanding spot, sand flat with a lighter grit, primer, paint, and clear coat, and then you are done.
@@ltmltm4945 After I clean everything with wire brush, flap discs, dremmel and everything else 🤣 I put phosphoric acid just after I cleaned everything to a healthy bare metal.. Then remove when residues comes up with steel wool and after that give it a wipe with alcohol, after that put again phosphoric acid and dry it clean with industrial dryer and paint directly after drying because if you wait for a day it will start flash rust again.. If you don't use phosphoric acid and you paint over healthy bare metal, be sure that a little rust will be under paint after few days no matter you are sure there was no rust until you painted, it starts to rust instantly if there is humid air and 1 dot of rust left is enough for the cancer to spread under the paint, I tested it on my w124 with all combinations.. I skipped some steps but all the crucial steps are written, good luck guys..
So convert the rust to feric phosphate and then remove the ferric phosphate. Seems legit. Why wouldn't you just remove the rust like you do in the end anyway? Must be a generational thing. 🤷♀️
not bad, I would you a spot blasting gun to get all the rust out and use an etch primer first as standard primer doesn't really adhere to bare metal or filler
That's a great job Alex. You clearly know what you are doing! Our van needs urgent attention, do you take on jobs like this? We are just down the road from you in Alcaidesa. Let me know if you are interested and your rates. Cheers
Im not sure if this is the right way ,why put on the rustconverter and then grind it away. I think i would grind away the rust first ,then aply the rust converter and then the bondo
I take it back. Women do not take too long to get ready. I had no idea masking the damage of time took this laborious a process and have a new respect for makeup.
Owning a sprinter is a great way to learn how to deal with rust 😂
Why is that? Sorry I don’t know much ab sprinter vans
@@scotthill1600 sprinters are rust buckets. Just look at any van on the road. If it's rusty, it's most likely a sprinter.
@@scotthill1600 Mercedes decided that commercial vehicles like that typically don't have a long lifespan with their first owner anyway and cheaped out on galvanizing and paint. At least in the first generation, that's why they rust much more than most cars from that era.
You can watch one rust 😂😂
@@Finnspin_unicycles they rust much quicker than most other types of vans, not just cars.
Using wide tape and peeling it back ever so slightly every coat is low-key genius. I will definitely use this.
4 real
that sounds unfathomably easier than fixing it afterwards👍
Lol the line is just no longer straight but definately still there
@@taylormullis4942 What he did is called back taping, just about every good body shop does it, it just makes it a lot easier to blend in your primer, makes less sanding to get rid of the line
Or better yet; stay off the edge
@@blainedavis8206soft edging, you can get rolls of tube foam with adhesive for door jams to soft edge overspray in gaps too.
Fantastic. I have a couple of spots on my van that need attention, my paint just arrived so the timing of this video couldn’t be any better. Quite possibly the best 54 second video on CZcams
Well i have a couple of spots between my rust.. i am afraid that will not be enough to handle it
Don't fill holes weld new bits in. Rust treat after grinding .
Also you will need to treat the back side of the repair
Unfortunately spots as deep in the video are quite hopeless and have to be cut out anyway.
Ah, a sprinter, the only van to actually be made of rust from the factory, not every manufacturer does that you know
DO NOT WET SAND BODY FILLER!! It is extremely porous and will hold on to water if it gets wet which can cause adhesion problems down the road and even cause the rust to come back.
*Thank you,* I did not know that. I appreciate the information and subsequent education. You sir have a fantastic day, week, month, year *and* the rest of you life. 👍
I was thinking primer before filler maybe?
@@thehighwayman78 no, filler always goes directly on metal. Ideally you don't even want any of the old finish under your filler. Sand away the old finish, get your body work as close to perfect as possible, then apply filler. You want the body work to be within an eighth of an inch before applying putty. Then you prime your repair
@@thehighwayman78put etch primer on first then fill as otherwise youre not protecting the metal in the slightest. But definitely avoid spraying water on the filler 400/800 grit evenly tends to be high enough to paint over and not see the grit marks underneath
@@thehighwayman78 epoxy etch primer
Bro used the rust converter just to sand it off 💀💀
These tiktokers are out of control
No it’s just proof rust converter are a scam😂
rust converter also shows you how much rust is left in pores if you dont clean it out completely, there is no point of repair.
@@Xover112 thats the point of the rust converter, you dont need to clean it to bare metal, guess you two guys went to the same school🤣🤣
@@xxn0cturn3xx Or you have no clue about body repairs, rust converter doesnt stop rust, especially if its rusted on both sides and you "repair" only that part that is on the outside, normal people would give warranty for 1year with repair like this.
@@Xover112 "rust converter doesnt stop rust" 💀💀
Treats a spot on the door; magically, the whole door is like new
You normally don't sand rust treatment most you have to remove with a damp cloth when it turns black
@@freddi5210what's a fertan?
@@Light-Painter If you're going to do what he did there's absolutely no point in using rust preventer/converter. The whole point of using it is so that you don't have to sand and grind it away to bare metal.
@@freddi5210 I blinked.
@@Light-Painterwhat evidence does the video give that its the right way? It reacts with the rust to form a protective layer. If you sand all the rust away afterwards there is no point in using it. Putting water on it makes it react better, a little sanding afterwards is OK, because it shouldn't be left on not rusted metal. Then prime and fill.
@@freddi5210 Well that was helpful..... *not!* 🙄
I've yet to see a Sprinter over 5 years old without these spots
We’ve had them on crafters and sprinters after only 2 years!
Rust buckets try a different make of van
@@jasdunlop9907 anything with that body type is the same unfortunately
At my last job we had a '12 and a '14 without a single rust spot on either van... in California 😂
There’s not much to choose from! Either sprinter or a transit and you’ll have to deal with rust, or ducato/relay/boxer with gutless engines and very poor cab interiors/sound control.
I’ve heard crafters post 2013 (I think) are galvanised- so that’s probably a good option.
Once I've cleaned rust of any metal.i use red oxide primer .... always had great results I may be wrong but each to there own great job btw ..... not too much filler too looks like you just got to it in time !
Red oxide would show through the white. But on darker colours its good too!
Rust preventer is usually just phosphoric acid, you can get concentrated PA much cheaper, water it down a bit and a liter bottle will last you a very long time.
Should be using fiberglass filler, water proof and won't bubble later on from moisture.
Another good tip for avoiding rust is not to buy an old Sprinter 👍
sorry not everyone can afford newer or less used vehicles.
@@goldslcc02 maybe not, but there are many better and cheaper alternatives to an old sprinter even on the used market. They're a notoriously shit van.
Or Transit or Any Renault, Peugeot, Opel, Iveco or Toyota.
Brilliant, a job I need to do on my van soon so very useful, thanks 👍
Flap Wheel enters the chat!💪🤙
Mercedes, MOPAR, NISSAN took off the Zink plating that was introduced in the 80s to prevent this horror. I fixed many GMs ,Jeeps in the early 80s with rust spots like this on new cars with 6 miles from dealerships. The body fillers needed to be changed to adhere to this plating. Ok back were we started from!!!
Great vid 👍
FINALLY a video that is 20 minutes long. Thank you!!
Good for at least six months. Fiberglass filler helps. Often with a rusty spot the rest of the nearby panel has got some interior corrosion already festering and will show itself soon.
So what should I use instead
@@ltmltm4945 What he said. Fiberglass filler under the bondo
@@ltmltm4945 Cut the rust metal out altogether and weld a patch in. It is the only way. What is shown in the video - most likely there is already rust on the inside. All that work is useless. Unless, yeah, you have to sell it in a jiffy. Then it is somebody else's problem.
Love it mate, hope you guys are keeping well :)
Use a grinder, then 180, keep the spot as small as possible. Then flatten the spot with sand paper p400 at max. Tape off the spot, primer it twice, Sand it again with 400, put ground paint on it, sand it again Lightly and then use paint. Then Sand the whole part in a whole and spray it. Tip: close your eyes and feel. What youre feeling is what your going to see, when applying 2 layers of primer, make sure the 1st one is dry and hard. Also, before painting, use amonia with water to make it free from grease.
Its a merc, i hope you're ready for the next bit in a weeks time.
Fertan is amazing stuff 👌👍
That fly almost became part of the car when the primer paint came out.
Sick result bro
Solid facts for a great finish 👍👍👍👍
Happy to hear your voice… even if it is an old short.
Use "soft-edge" masking tape it has foam inside it to help the paint feather at the edge so it won't require excessive sanding
They’re called sprinters because if you see one for sale you leg it!
All of this is good advice But the rust will return usually within 12 to 18 months so be aware, and not too heart-broken when it starts to bubble back
Great job 👍
Hey, I think this is a pretty good video. You fit most of the important stuff into a short time. Where is the clear coat though?
Thank you.
That's brilliant 👏 😀 xx
Damn, final result looks mint
You either have a van in primer colors, or - if the 'top coat' (aka final thing to add, because it is the... top. coat.) is the desired color - you don't add a clear coat..?
I thought all cars have a clear coat on top of the paint.
As for the rust: nicely done.
(Though i don't understand the extra step of rust removal after the rust removal; very thorough... and most likely a fix that will not have the issue return suddenly.
Well done)
so far your the only guy that uses rust converter
Good job!
Very good work😊
You should look into POR15 if you have places that are prone to rusting. It treats metal so it won't rust again, and also stops spreading of rust. A little pricey, but worth it
As a professional accident repair and paint technician I must say you did a very good job! Most people that are not in the trade do a terrible job. Well done 😊🎉
I wouldn’t use water /wet&dry on filler, filler absorbs moisture and then once painted will bubble as the moisture is trapped
Hi bud your totally right, If I got filler wet I would in most cases re do the whole filler job as its not worth the risk of bubbling the paint in the future but It's hopefully degreaser in that bottle? at least it's what I'd use :) For what seems like someone not in the trade I am pretty impressed with OP for the most part :)
@@MooshYTback side of the panel isn't treated. rust came from trapped moisture on the inside typically. will continue unless back is treated
Hi, I don't think so otherwise how did he grind it all down from the outside without going through the other side leaving a hole or more rust? Didn't look like it to me, but even so I was only commenting on the little bit that I could see in the short clip 😅
If that is a good repair in your book, I feel sorry for your clients.
Then re do every few months for the rest of its life!
which sandpaper do you recommend for removing surface rust? I want to get it removed before getting it painted at a shop. Thanks
What "top coat" are you using exactly? Most rattle can spray paints will not polish to a shine after wet sanding.
Nice! But no clear coat?
You should have ground the rust out completely before putting the phosphoric acid on it. Sanding the metal afterwards removes the protection that the acid provides. It's a chemical reaction with the steel to prevent further rust. It's not just a "rust converter."
Last rust patch i fixed in 5 mins cause i needed to go back and get the warrant of fitness as the mechanic shut in 20 mins. Got the wof though.
what's the name of the compound used to bring the shine back?
Wow it’s the first one of those where it was actually done properly.
How much will all the supplies cost?
What are you using to fill it??
after rust converter, never sand it.
Why?
@@katdat1399 id like to know as well. it's my first project on my van, and i'm stressing it lol
@@ltmltm4945 I would sand it with a Dremel after using the rust converter, because most rust converters barely do anything, so sanding down to bare metal would be better, and actually you can probably just skip the rust converter part, sand to bare metal ensuring no rust is left, use a body filler to fill in the sanding spot, sand flat with a lighter grit, primer, paint, and clear coat, and then you are done.
Definitely sand it! If you don't the paint will be thrown off by the rust converter
@@ltmltm4945 After I clean everything with wire brush, flap discs, dremmel and everything else 🤣 I put phosphoric acid just after I cleaned everything to a healthy bare metal.. Then remove when residues comes up with steel wool and after that give it a wipe with alcohol, after that put again phosphoric acid and dry it clean with industrial dryer and paint directly after drying because if you wait for a day it will start flash rust again.. If you don't use phosphoric acid and you paint over healthy bare metal, be sure that a little rust will be under paint after few days no matter you are sure there was no rust until you painted, it starts to rust instantly if there is humid air and 1 dot of rust left is enough for the cancer to spread under the paint, I tested it on my w124 with all combinations.. I skipped some steps but all the crucial steps are written, good luck guys..
Would you need to use a lacquer ?
Thanks m8 🙏🏾
Is there any reason to rust convert if you just to straight to metal instead?
Thaks!
Good luck 🤞
awesome tutorial
Thats how you do it!!! Sick of these videos where they never do it properly and just apply rust converter and paint it! This is 100% how you do it!
So convert the rust to feric phosphate and then remove the ferric phosphate. Seems legit. Why wouldn't you just remove the rust like you do in the end anyway? Must be a generational thing. 🤷♀️
That's some skilled rattle can work 💪
nice video.. that's one down, 384 to go!
Will this work on other vehicles?
How long would this take to do?
Do you know if its usefull on cars too?
not bad, I would you a spot blasting gun to get all the rust out and use an etch primer first as standard primer doesn't really adhere to bare metal or filler
Do you use clear coat?
First class video there dude, thank you 👍
I heard heating up your can in warm water before applying makes it flow more evenly
Sprinters actually come with rust as standard, opting for no rust is a optional extra
Any special details for the leading and training edge of the doors?
What is a soft disk?
Shouldn’t you primer first to make sure the filler sticks?
No clear coat?
how about clear coat
Top Job 👍👍👍
You definitely have a skilled trade
Mines like that 59 crafter 😅
Take a roller and some Hempels marine grade paint. Paint it, done. Millions of sailors will approve!
No clear coat??
Why are you using a rust "preventer" and not a rust converter?
That's a great job Alex. You clearly know what you are doing! Our van needs urgent attention, do you take on jobs like this? We are just down the road from you in Alcaidesa. Let me know if you are interested and your rates. Cheers
Hey thanks! Sorry I don’t, would love to help if I could.
Sprinters have serious rust issues in the rust belt.. but I'll bet there isn't one spot of rust underneath?
If i was gonna go throughball that i'd probably do a vinyl wrap and add an extra layer to protect it from the elements.
I'm going to call one of my X's right now and tell her I'm gonna need 2to3 good top coats just to see what her response will be.
You'll be like whaaaat 😂
Im not sure if this is the right way ,why put on the rustconverter and then grind it away. I think i would grind away the rust first ,then aply the rust converter and then the bondo
Nice bro
These spots always start on a Sprinter or Transit after a couple years of use.
Oh man, do you think rust working just outside? a couple of month later rust coming back again
Goated
Za ile godzin wyszla rdza ?
I take it back. Women do not take too long to get ready. I had no idea masking the damage of time took this laborious a process and have a new respect for makeup.
Why treat the rust and that remove it fully?
I think you're supposed to remove as much rust as possible first then treat it and don't sand it of fill prime paint
Now it will just look like someone hit it with a baseball, but if you look at the repair from the front of the car it looks great👍🏼
180 to 800 is crazzzyyy
Rust never sleeps. 😲
Standard Merc rust they don't have a problem with
why treat it if you're just grinding it out?