Great Tutorial👍🏻 All the finishes are looking good. Also the green one. I work on carbon parts for a RC plane. Thinking about a matte finish for these parts. A nice matte finish seems to be almost Ire tricky than a glossy one. Will come up soon with videos about the final look of these parts.
Great video, and the colors are great too, if that is what you want for your application. I've found using the maroon colored 3M pads, by hand, makes a nice matte finish on glossy parts.
If you want to know how each method effects strength. The methods where you cut right into the carbon will impact your strength a fair amount. Almost all the strength in CFRP are from the fibers and the matrix prevents fiber buckling and maintains stress distribution. By sanding into the fibers you’re basically creating stress concentrations along the fibers where certain fibers are much thinner than others. If you want to maintain integrity of the part and optimize strength, begin with a top coat and then sand down. Again use a rotating assembly to maintain an even coat and reduce stress concentrations. Try to keep aeration of the epoxy low as well. Bubbles will create stress concentrations.
I believe the best clear coat on the market is the kind not spilled :) thanks for showing everything for real and not just a very pristine video in which everything always goes as planned please if you can make a video about all the mistakes you did on composite work over the years so people like me can use your experience and not do the same mistake, I am really happy to see you back up and running in youtube again dear Matthieu keep up the great work with best wishes for you
haha good eye for detail, decided to include it while editing the video. Thanks for the kind words! It's been on my mind to do a video where everything goes wrong :D to be followed ;)
Hi, thank you for this informative video ! How much better would a Pull Winded or Braided tube would perform in torsion compared to a Roll Wrapped ? Regards
Hello Matthieu, awesome video. I am currently struggling with space in my workshop and want to make something similar to your spray booth, looks really interesting. Can you please explain how it works, is it custom or ready made product? Thanks in advance.
Absolutely fabulous! You mentioned something about applying gelcoat afterwards, in one of the other comments. I always thought gelcoat was a polyester type product, and would not work with epoxy. What gelcoat do you use?
Easy Composites has a product called "GC50" which is compatible with Epoxy resin if I'm correct! I personally dont like gelcoats as they add weight and it's hard to control if everything goes well under vacuum :)
I like the color finish. Would love to see more examples of pigmented carbon. Do you think you could get good results by spraying candy colored gelcoat into a mold?
Hello, thank you for your valuable information. Do you have carbon fiber drone body and propeller videos? I'm thinking of making a propeller and a drone body, it would be great if you have such a work.
might be interesting indeed! The tubes here weren't made with same thicknesses so might be hard to compare. But thanks for your insights, might be interesting for a future video!
@@MatthieuLibeert I think we sometimes lose sight of what making things in Carbon is all about, which is primarily lightness. However given certain applications customers want a 'look' rather than lightness. Shiny carbon bits being the focus instead of lightness.
is it just glare with clear or you used transparent color because I think I saw a liquid pigment you added if I am not mistaken thanks for all the information
whenever I try to sand epoxy directly, im alwayssss left with scratch marks no matter how many grits I use or how much I sand with each grit. Is this what the topcoat is for, is it easier to sand? Or am I just not good at what im doing
it's a Hamach 0.8 nozzle that I use. like mentioned in the tutorial, the higher you go in price and the more educated you are in spraypainting the better the result. It's all about settings. not saying this is the best spraygun but it works for me, with results seen in this tutorial.
Maybe a dumb question or possible one that has already been asked but if your cast product is found to be to thick is it possible to sand through or past one ply let’s say without an issue? The reason I ask is because I ordered a piece of roll wrapped carbon fiber and I over estimates how thick the wall thickness wound need to be for the project I’m working on. My piece is just 12” long and I thought about running it in my wood lathe (taking it down by sanding not tooling) do a thinner dimension. I’m the end I’m not concerned about esthetics as far as seeing consistent Fabre weaves and such I just want to cut the weight down. Is this a bad idea. I’d likely bring it down maybe an 1/8” in wall thickness in the end. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Will be hard to get good aestetics if you need to remove that much, each layers of carbon should be about 0.2mm which isn't a lot... You might remove a bit more a'd apply a new layer on top for aestetics in the end?
Awesome to see you expanding with different tools and techniques
always learning new stuff every day :D
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this knowledge with us!
My pleasure!
That green tube in the sunlight looks so amazing. Your technique is awesome, your results seem super consistent.
Thanks! to be honest they could have an extra of soft sanding and polishing after clear but was pretty happy with the result for this tutorial :)
Great Tutorial👍🏻 All the finishes are looking good. Also the green one. I work on carbon parts for a RC plane. Thinking about a matte finish for these parts. A nice matte finish seems to be almost Ire tricky than a glossy one. Will come up soon with videos about the final look of these parts.
I love the greet tinted carbon it looks kinda stealthy until you see it in bright light.
Thanks for sharing, Matthieu 🙌
My pleasure!
NICE JOB
Great video, and the colors are great too, if that is what you want for your application. I've found using the maroon colored 3M pads, by hand, makes a nice matte finish on glossy parts.
Can You do a strength test on these 4 tubes? this would show which processes better for certain applications.
might be something interesting to do!
Brilliant idea
If you want to know how each method effects strength. The methods where you cut right into the carbon will impact your strength a fair amount. Almost all the strength in CFRP are from the fibers and the matrix prevents fiber buckling and maintains stress distribution. By sanding into the fibers you’re basically creating stress concentrations along the fibers where certain fibers are much thinner than others. If you want to maintain integrity of the part and optimize strength, begin with a top coat and then sand down. Again use a rotating assembly to maintain an even coat and reduce stress concentrations. Try to keep aeration of the epoxy low as well. Bubbles will create stress concentrations.
Thank you for sharing
No problem! Glad you like it! 😉
I believe the best clear coat on the market is the kind not spilled :) thanks for showing everything for real and not just a very pristine video in which everything always goes as planned please if you can make a video about all the mistakes you did on composite work over the years so people like me can use your experience and not do the same mistake, I am really happy to see you back up and running in youtube again dear Matthieu keep up the great work with best wishes for you
haha good eye for detail, decided to include it while editing the video. Thanks for the kind words! It's been on my mind to do a video where everything goes wrong :D to be followed ;)
Quality as always
Thanks! Glad to see a comment of you on this video again!
I would really like to see how each finish holds up after after being left outside for an extended period of time.
Thanks for this video. Can you give a link for the 2k products you used with the spray gun?
Hi, thank you for this informative video ! How much better would a Pull Winded or Braided tube would perform in torsion compared to a Roll Wrapped ? Regards
Great tutorial.
If I want a matte finish, does this depend on the type of resin, o is it a different process?
Recommend to try quartz liquid glass clear coat, finish is always perfect 👌
Thanks for the tip!
Hello Matthieu, awesome video. I am currently struggling with space in my workshop and want to make something similar to your spray booth, looks really interesting. Can you please explain how it works, is it custom or ready made product? Thanks in advance.
Would really like to hear a few words about your paint booth .
Absolutely fabulous! You mentioned something about applying gelcoat afterwards, in one of the other comments. I always thought gelcoat was a polyester type product, and would not work with epoxy. What gelcoat do you use?
Easy Composites has a product called "GC50" which is compatible with Epoxy resin if I'm correct! I personally dont like gelcoats as they add weight and it's hard to control if everything goes well under vacuum :)
I like the color finish. Would love to see more examples of pigmented carbon. Do you think you could get good results by spraying candy colored gelcoat into a mold?
I guess it's a personal thing indeed :) hate it or love it. Might work as well! but I'm not a big fan of gelcoat, I prefer applying it after :)
Does the spray max 2k clear have uv protection? I don’t see it on the can or on the discretion.
Hello, thank you for your valuable information.
Do you have carbon fiber drone body and propeller videos?
I'm thinking of making a propeller and a drone body, it would be great if you have such a work.
Hi glad to hear you like the videos, unfortunately there will not be a video of drone bodies or propellers 🙂
Nice video. Did you do a comparison as to what weighs more?
might be interesting indeed! The tubes here weren't made with same thicknesses so might be hard to compare. But thanks for your insights, might be interesting for a future video!
@@MatthieuLibeert I think we sometimes lose sight of what making things in Carbon is all about, which is primarily lightness. However given certain applications customers want a 'look' rather than lightness. Shiny carbon bits being the focus instead of lightness.
Brushing it most likely built the highest base, best for sanding and polishing. As a painter, the tinted green wins.
What is the white material inside the bottom tube in the image?
is it just glare with clear or you used transparent color because I think I saw a liquid pigment you added if I am not mistaken thanks for all the information
It is a translucent pigment indeed! its hard to capture on video but you can see through it and on other angles you'll see the pigments
whenever I try to sand epoxy directly, im alwayssss left with scratch marks no matter how many grits I use or how much I sand with each grit. Is this what the topcoat is for, is it easier to sand? Or am I just not good at what im doing
Can you give me. How many item or material used one each item separately
Which paint guns do you use?
it's a Hamach 0.8 nozzle that I use. like mentioned in the tutorial, the higher you go in price and the more educated you are in spraypainting the better the result. It's all about settings. not saying this is the best spraygun but it works for me, with results seen in this tutorial.
Maybe a dumb question or possible one that has already been asked but if your cast product is found to be to thick is it possible to sand through or past one ply let’s say without an issue? The reason I ask is because I ordered a piece of roll wrapped carbon fiber and I over estimates how thick the wall thickness wound need to be for the project I’m working on. My piece is just 12” long and I thought about running it in my wood lathe (taking it down by sanding not tooling) do a thinner dimension. I’m the end I’m not concerned about esthetics as far as seeing consistent Fabre weaves and such I just want to cut the weight down. Is this a bad idea. I’d likely bring it down maybe an 1/8” in wall thickness in the end. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Will be hard to get good aestetics if you need to remove that much, each layers of carbon should be about 0.2mm which isn't a lot... You might remove a bit more a'd apply a new layer on top for aestetics in the end?
Does it have the repeat step sequencer in the step sequencer ??
Do you mean on the X-Winder? It's just a function to let the tube spin at a certain speed
After all of this which method do you prefer?
I personally prefer the split mould. But all techniques work equaly, depends on what the customer wants I guess (price/result)
Awesome! ... For Safety, you should not wear gloves when using a lathe or bench grinder.
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