How to change Automatic Transmission Fluid
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- čas přidán 29. 12. 2016
- Here's how I changed the Automatic Transmission Fluid in my 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring.
This is done if you don't want to flush all the fluid through the system. Not sure if this is an issue for full synthetic ATFs but certainly not recommended for conventional oil as debris and varnish will be forced around inside the tranny. Everyone I spoke to warned me against that idea (except for Hyundai themselves) :-)
Draining and refilling will only get about half of the fluid, but this is typically all a lube shop will do anyway. When the fluid loses its rosey hue, you just repeat the process. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video, very informative,helped me when I changed mine. I agree, DO NOT FLUSH OUT your trans (esp. on cars with higher miles, 100k+). And agree, all trans repair places will do is drain half the fluid & refill. In older days, trans repair shops would, drain, remove pan, replace filter & reinstall pan with new gasket, no more. One helpful hint I can pass along is to use a breaker bar (or longer socket wrench handle) with your socket when loosening the drain bolt, as they can be quite hard to loosen if it has been awhile since last removed. Plus, if doing this while on the ground, under your car, you dont have enough room to get enough leverage on the bolt to loosen it. Using a longer handle makes it 100% easier. You can move the World with the right leverage!!
Thank you so much for this video, I was able to get the confidence to do the transmissions oil change myself.
Thanks man it helps a lot cause i need to know how much replacement for the tank, you are right , replace every one or two years is a good ideal than flash.
l have a 2012 Elantra (Sedan)... with 60K on it. This video comes in handy. Thank you for sharing your AFT change video. God, I hated when they stop having dip stick where you can fill the AFT through it.
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My 2010 Sonata has a filter but it is not accessible without complete disassembly. The Hyundai factory manual allows you to 'exchange' the fluid by first doing a drain / refill as you did, then pump out the remaining fluid by disconnecting the cooler line and directing the fluid to a drain container. The manual says allow the fluid to pump out shutting off the engine immediately after the fluid flow stops but never more than one minute of total run time. The issues with these transmissions seen to be the poor quality SP3 factory fill. In Canada our fluid lasts longer because of the lower average temperatures. My Sonata started down shifting harshly after 75,000 km. I exchanged with dealer fluid (cheaper at KIA). Now off warranty, I will do my next exchange with Chrysler ATF+4 fluid which is also a highly friction modified fluid and add an in line filter.
Use Amsoil synthetic only for best results. This drain and fill process needs to be 2-3 times to get it all changed properly. If you only do this once you have not even changed half of it.
My Touring is currently as 238k and shifts like a sack of re-fried shit, I was going to take it to a lube shop for a flush until I saw your video, very informative, I will definitely approach this problem myself, hopefully get another year or two out of it!
LucasWolfen another trick you can try is shifting it into Neutral while initially warming up. The fluid isn’t flowing when it’s in Park. I find that helps on cold mornings. Good luck to you!
Wow, that's impressive. Mines at 190k but I have the manual. Did it end up helping?
An automatic transmission is a closed hydraulic devise with no foreign matter being introduced. Therefor, if the filter on a transmission should ever become plugged, it is plugged with transmission parts! This means the transmission is past the point of needing a fluid change. An engine on the other hand is constantly exposed to foreign matter (air and fuel) which brings in contaminants as well as the combustion that creates many other byproducts. The engine oil filter is designed to filter these products out.
Many transmission manufacturers use only a screen on the fluid pickup to filter out any casting flaws or debris that could be poured down the dipstick. Some manufacturers do not recommend changing the filter.
The fluid will break down and needs to be changed, the filters do not plug up on a healthy transmission.
i have Elantra 2010 and the Odd is about 300K now, i change the transmission oil every 50k with filter. if you open that pins under the car you will the filter inside the carter. Also there is a 2 magnetics inside to catch the filings.
You are absolutely correct my friend on the filter and the change interval. Since it does have an easily accessible drain plug I do the transmission drain with each oil change. The less particulates in the oil the less clutch wear you will have in the end.
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Great video. Thanks
THANKS, this video really helped me.....
Great to hear! 👍
Helped me thanks!
Varnish has not been an issue in decades. My transmission guy said he hasn’t seen varnish coating on the inside of a transmission case in a long long time.
As you said, you are only going to get about half of what is in there out. You can do MULTIPLE changes by doing the first drain and fill as you did, drive it around, come on back, and repeat. That will get out more of the remaining old and allow more new in to replace that old fluid you drained the second time around. After the second drain and refill, go drive the car a bit and then do a third drain and refill. That should pretty much get you to the point where you have new fluid in the system.
Exactly and add a spin on filter to boot. Yes there is a filter in that pan... :)
Great video. What size is the drain plug bolt? I’m hearing it’s 24mm. Is that correct? And did you replace the crush washer or is the crush washer affixed to the bolt?
steven brown : Thanks... and no, the drain plug is 17 mm. I haven’t changed the crush washer, I think the washer’s attached. I just clean it well. Eventually the dealership is going to call the vehicle in for a service that includes transmission fluid ($250). At that point they’ll probably replace/recycle the plug.
2011 and forward don't have a dipstick and are maintenance free as fyi UNLESS you driving under sever conditions like stop and go in the desert southwest:). Doesn't hurt to check the fluid level every once and a while though which is located on the front cover of the transmission.
If Apple made a car, it would have no mechanism for opening the hood at all. You'd just have to take it to the dealership every few days for upgrades and patches ;-)
@@tammyforbes2101 I agree with you but I'm a Honda dude all my life. Also Honda tech (all products) retired . I tow with my Odyssey (4th) one, Honda AT s don't have a filter inside the tranny like Domspestic mfrs do, they have a magnet to catch metal particulate. I change the complete fluid at 30K Km or about 20K Ms. I do this before the fluid has been compromised from heat and load. No probs ever and I use Honda OEM fluid only. Don't ever flush and AT and if it has minor shift probs change out the fluid completely and use Only The OEM fluid recommended by the ride you have. Change the filer if it has one and look up how to change all the fluid in your automatic transmission. BTW, make sure the transmission is at operating temp when you do it that means hot.
Wrong, it just means you have to go to the factory to get it done, doesn't mean maintenance free.
There should be a filter inside the pan
Doing this tomorrow. Always wondered if it would be good to put a compressor hose under low pressure on the fill tube to get more fluid out. Does anybody have an idea about this?
That won't help but you could put compress air on the cooler line. Best if the fluid has been in there a while/miles to change it three or four times over a week and make sure and change the filter. You could also add a spin on filter sold as a kit for transmissions.
do you have any issue with the transmission fluid you used in your video?
trleo714 none at all, thanks. According to the manual I'm using a suitable synthetic oil. In fact I think I'll change it again in the same way soon just to "freshen it up".
There is a filter, it's inside the pan. You can order a replacement from Rock Auto if you are interested in replacing it.
I'd rather just replace the whole car for one that was not made in Korea ;-) but thanks for the tip. My goal is to make any car last 10 years and these little 'operations' are just the way to do it. Cheers!
There is no filter I took the pan off my 2005 because gasket was leaking , no filter in there.
i have hyundai i30 2009 european model would it be the same procedure what you reckon ? thanks a lot
I would expect so. I don’t anticipate any structural changes that would significantly alter the effectiveness of this approach.
Dude, I have the same model and year and the fluid is also looking really dark / burnt. Our transmission sometimes changes gears in a rough fashion or when putting reverse there is a little delay. Dealers here in California also offer that flushing so I might go ahead and change it myself...I should have watched your video earlier!! i just changed my motor oil and realized the transmission plug is right there!! Did it improve the way the car shift with that partial change?
Luis Marcano there is a frightening number of moving parts in there and they all rely on the viscosity and lubrication of the fluid. It takes a while in cold weather for the fluid to warm up and shift smoothly, but it's better now after the change. Good luck!
Yes man, I know those are serious inside. Well, thanks for sharing this video and your personal experience....by the way, the weather is really leaving its prints on your under carriage.....mine still looks shinny black! I'll update after I finish it.
Haha yeah, I noticed that. That's Canadian winter for ya. I bought it used so I can't speak for where it was parked in its first 4 years of life. Did you notice the forward catalytic converter heat shield was gone? It disintegrated!
Watched this video & changed mine due to old fluid & rough shifting. And yes, you will only be relacing half of total capacity of fluid but well worth it it. In addition, I added a Lucas Oil trans fluid conditioner to help seal any leaks and lowers operating temp of fluid (so it claims) At $17 worth a shot to prolong a transmission. And yes!! Helped with my shifting problem right away, very noticeable difference!
I don't know how far you have to get under that vehicle to access the drain plug, but to be SAFE, put that car on JACK STANDS! Do NOT rely on the floor jack to hold that car up in the air while you are under it!
Did you go with Oem fluid or something like volvoline maxlife fluid? Thank you
I went with volvoline.
@@techguy2696 thank you
In fact there is a filter inside the pan.
you need to level your car front and back equally to get more fluid out of your trans...
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You waited to long to change fluid. Hyundai Transmission fluid they need to be change every 60,000 miles. Hopefully your Transmission is ok.