You've got that Bob Ross thing going on in your video's. " You don't have to do it this way. It's your spoon, do what feels good to you." Put a smile on me, nice job.
That really is a beautiful spoon. My first exposure to your channel. Of course I subscribed. If I may add, that you should have wet that spoon down with water after your final sanding to raise the fibers, let it dry completely and final sand it again before you oil it. It makes a big difference on how smooth you will get it and how smooth it will stay with use. I think mineral oil is great at first to soak the spoon. For at least an hour, and then follow up with a blend of mineral oil and melted beeswax. Great job on the shape and the execution.
You have to do it yourself. Tape the video screen and in the top right hand side of the screen a boxed CC should pop up. Tap on it and you'll have your subtitles.
Tom, very well done. A beautifully balanced spoon that is pleasing to the eye. Your video was superbly clear, well constructed and very well narrated. A true "how to" video, using minimal tools and also giving alternatives for people who do not have a workshop full of high end power tools. Thank you for taking the time to make and share this excellent video; a true resource for any budding spoon carver. A foot note on "wetting"... A good alternative to water for raising the grain prior to finishing is denatured alcohol, it will lift or raise the grain and dry quickly, this can be repeated several times, making the surface, smooth and hard, that will ultimately keep your work from being ruined the first time it is introduced to the stockpot. Best wishes from England.
Thank you Darren and yes, to raise and remove the feathering before the spoon goes into use I would agree, denatured alcohol, is an efficient and smart way to go!
Lovely film, instructional and therapeutic at the same time. I'd have kept that block of wood for something, maybe to prop something up, but would never have thought to carve a spoon out of it. Thanks for sharing.
This was by far the most enjoyable of videos on spoon making I love that you said to use the tools I have, I feel much more confident in giving it another try . Thankyou
Your teaching style is fantastic. You're postive, you keep it feeling light and easy, you give the student the power to do their spoon how THEY want, giving the student control. Sir. .I thank you.
thanks for taking the time to post this, you have inspired me to give it a try. A curved gouge is on my wish list so I might buy one for this project, if you chance could you let me know what sweep your large chisel is.
Very nice work. I like how you were able to hand carve the bowl with gouges. Nice detail on the back of the bowl where there is a gentle spine detail that shows. One of the best spoon carvings videos I have seen. Thanks.
Thank you Dave. I have found that, depending on the wood you use and the way you use the natural strength of the linear grain, you can make very thin bowels and slender necks and yet carve a spoon that is strong and durable. I am aching to ring greenwood that I can use but I reside in the heart of LA and need a source other than palm trees and pines. I will try eucalyptus soon but that may be too aerobatic for spoons. I like maple and would like to find some birch!
Very nice. I have just started spoon making myself and been having a lot of fun with it. I have found that I like to take a extra step with mine. I give them a good wash in water to swell up the grain. A smooth spoon gets very rough with that first wash. I then give it another fine sanding and coat of oil.
Marty, thats an astute consideration but I would like to know how it works for you if you don't mind getting back to me. What I'm wondering is that if you soaked the wood again later (or simply left it in the stock pot too long) would it get fuzzy again? Also, since I am new to this myself, I would appreciate your experiences with different kinds of wood. Thanks!
Tom Ford i can actually answer this one. dry wood when finished is nice and smooth. when you wet it you take the smooth wood and swell it up, when it dries it leaves some bits sticking up. when you sand those off the wood does not have any grain to swell in that direction since you sanded the bits off and should not get rough again.
Hi could you tell me how long you need to soak it for, you might have already it in the reply’s but for some reason I can’t read long replies (tech issue) Could you tell me in like 2 or 3 lines?
I’ve been wondering which locally available wood is best suited for spoon carving, and hearing that birch is well suited is great news, as it’s abundant around my home.
Great project! I would recommend finishing the wood with a melted beeswax and mineral oil blend. It will protect the wood a little better then just mineral oil. The oil should be used routinely to keep the wood from drying and cracking.
Just what I needed to see. I recently started making spatulas and use the rolling technique on the belt sander for the handles. I have a carving burr from Kutzall arriving today and will be making spoons. I cannot wait. Beautiful work.
That was a gorgeous spoon! I liked the way you did the video and you gave lots of good advice. I have been carving for only about six months so far and feel I am beginning to make some nice spoons. I too have discovered that dry ash carves fairly nicely. I also find that the spoon often tells me how it should be shaped and finished. I have not tried using a curved gouge yet. I am using a Flexcut set of tools and a scorp to shape the bowl and a carving knife to shape and scrape the handle. You can also put a little water in the bowl as you are carving to soften the grain, which makes it easier. I find the bandsaw and belt sander are great tools for removing extra wood and shaping the spoon. I do use small pieces of sandpaper rather than full sheets like you do especially in the bowl area. I feel that the sandpaper takes the shape of my fingers or thumb as I sand the bowl. Like one of your other commenters mentioned, if you wet down the spoon with a wet rag after your final sanding it will raise the grain and then you can either wait till it dries to resand it or use a wet-dry sandpaper while it is still wet to achieve a really smooth finish. I have used both tung oil and mineral oil as finishes and have also done some with a stain to bring out the grain and then water based MinWax Polycrylic over that, which the manufacturer says is food safe once it is cured. Thank you so much!
Rose, i never like to do the same thing too often. I need to keep mixing it up or I get bored. This has translated into many careers and lots of hobbies. But spoon carving. Something about it. And so many ways to do it! so many possibilities and styles... and even when I teach classes everyone, without exception so fat, likes it and is surprised as to how much they enjoy it. Even those wh 'get a spoon carving class' as a surprise gift, come here not knowing what they are going to do and, when they find out what, are LESS than enthusiastic. Soo, about 10 minutes into it, that's all forgotten and they are enjoying themselves. Come over one day and let's make spoons!
Would like to see a video on box making using finger joints using a table saw. Thank you. Or could you recommend a different person that does that. Loved your video. I also love to carve spoons.
overall nice video. You like your tools. 15:30 the way you present the wood carving knive it looks like you want it to fail. You hold it like you are peeling an apple..
Well done....I tend to use spalted firewood, which is mostly oak, with a hook knife and straight knife, then belt sanding for final rounding out. Great tutorial.
Great Job! I'm just getting started in spoon carving and want to know what are the best woods and also the ones to avoid. Thanks you for teaching us your craft.
The first answer is, start with just whatever you have. Then, let me say that I think tighter grain hardwoods work the best for me. Mahogany, walnut, maple, all make beautiful spoons but I have used ash, even oak and pine. If the wood you have in mind has an aroma or taste that may get into whatever you may use it for, consider that and be mindful of woods that could be toxic, especially treated woods. As for me (again) I really like the way mahogany carves, true and sure AND you can sand it to the be almost like glass. Have fun and experiment! There are so many great woods available and it may just depend on the part of the world that you call home.
Sorry to pop most everybody's bubble regarding the comments below, but as someone who has been doing traditional Swedish spooncarving for over two decades, and have even spent some time will Wille Sundqvist in Sweden, this spoon is designed & made disregarding the understanding of wood grain direction, and will not last very long before breaking. Besides the fact that it is flat and straight, with little curvature to make it comfortable for the hand to use. For more information, look up 'traditionally carved Swedish wooden spoons' . Not trying to be negative or knock the woodworker in this video - just wanted to show a different approach...
The soon is already 4 years old and is doing just fine under normal use, ash is a strong and tenacious wood. For a different approach feel free to look through my other videos, there are many variants of spoon design and carving techniques. And, fee free to direct us to your own videos.
Great idea but, even simpler...I now cut them out After I'm done with the chisel and scraper. Look at my later videos like czcams.com/video/Fd0JMzLunDw/video.html
for the side profile why not tape or hot glue the 2 cutoffs to the spoon piece? this will square up the piece to the saw blade and make it very stable as you cut it.
Good design but I was wondering if you might have more strength in the thinnest section if you had followed the grain so it ran straight and true through the entire length of the spoon. It's like buying a shovel handle, if the grain does not run straight through the length of the wood then it will break along the grain when being used. Just a thought.
Exactly and I usually follow the grain in my designs but it's still OK if the wood you have available does not permit an orientation that will allow you to 'follow the grain.
Hi Rob and thanks for watching. As far as gouges, thru trial and error I have found that very good tools really do matter as far as the level of control I can manage while carving. Also, sharpening gouges is a necessary skill to learn because the importance of sharp tools cannot be understated. And very good tools hold their edge much better than inferior steel which makes sharpening something you need to do less frequent. I really have come to like the Pfiel brand of Swiss chisels and gouges. They are costly (about $60 each) however, in my opinion, they are worth it. I mostly use 3 gouges, the 7L 20, 7L 25 and 7 30. The 7L 20 and 25 are swept (curved rather than straight) and are better suited for reaching into the bowl of a spoon. If I had to choose 1 I would go with the 7L 25 and I ordered mine thru Amazon because I was unable to source them locally. For nives I like the Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade (2.4-Inch) for the same reasons... stays sharp and makes my job easier. That said, cured or dry wood carving is different than green wood carving. In some ways it's more challenging (wood is much harder) in other ways (less warping, twisting and splitting) it's easier. These tools work well with either. I also purchased the Deepwoods Small Spoon Bowl Cup Carver Kuska Wood Carving Knife and I especially like it because the thick blade that is rounded (not thin or sharp) on the back side allows me to push the back of the blade with my thumb as I turn my wrist while carving. This adds a lot of control. Watch my video 'Carving An Industrial Sized Wooden Spoon' czcams.com/video/AiU9mRUNGc0/video.html. and you will see much more of the technique I use with the gouge, scrapers, sandpaper and sander.
Sumac, that's a complex question because there are different genus and some significant differences between them. I would research your specific source carefully. For instance, the Rhus coriaria plant and is totally safe and even considered to have health benefits while other varieties are known as Poison Sumac. Some species of Sumac have been reported to cause skin irritation. Most species that produce strong skin reactions (mostly through contact with leaves), such as Posion Sumac, are in the Toxicodendron genus, rather than the Rhus genus. The Rhus genus is considered to be a superfood spice version and the spice comes from the berries of the Rhus coriaria plant and is totally safe to eat. "It's a versatile spice with a tangy, lemony, but also fruity flavor," says Dawn Lerman, MA, CHHC, LCAT, a board-certified nutrition expert. The fruit's berries form in dense clusters on bushes, which are native to the Middle East. "They're then dried into a tangy purplish or maroon spice that's high in antioxidants," Lerman says. It can be found in whole berry form, but more often you'll find it in spice markets as a powder. The Health Benefits of Sumac Antioxidants are one of the biggest health benefits of sumac spice, says Despina Hyde, MS, RD, CDN, CDE, at NYU Langone Medical Center. "Sumac ranks very high on the ORAC chart, which ranks foods' antioxidant capacity," she says. "That's the ability to neutralize the free radicals that can cause cancer, heart disease, and signs of aging." These antioxidants also make sumac a great addition to an anti-inflammatory diet, which can ward off illnesses like coronary heart disease, says Kristen Kirkpatrick, a registered dietitian and manager of nutrition services at the Cleveland Clinic Wellness Institute. Sumac has been shown to have a positive effect on diabetes patients. One study found that daily intake of the superfood for a period of three months lead to a lower risk of cardiovascular disease among participants with type 2 diabetes. So, you see, it's important to know the wood you use. The benefits and/or toxicity that may be present in the leaves and/or berries of a species may or may not be present in the wood. I don't know all these answers. Consider that a wood spoon may be left to simmer in a pot of stock which is a very effective method or extracting whatever good or bad the wood may contain and incorporating it into whatever it is you are simmering. Beyond the safety or health considerations there is also the matter of taste and what any wood might contribute or take away from the enjoyment of your food. Fortunately, we have resources to investigate that are easily accessible via the internet and I would advise that you research any questions you may have to your own satisfaction first. Better safe than sorry.
Danial, I apply different methods for carving, some use power tools and some hand tools. Primarily, on green wood carved spoons, I use all hand tools. When I use cured/dried hardwoods and power tools are available to me I make use of them. They keep my time applied to each spoon down and, therefore, the cost of each spoon. Time is money. Come take one of my spoon carving classes and you can watch and learn a variety of techniques that I employ to carve wood spoons. I use cabinet scrapers frequently, like a spoke shave, especially on hardwoods and they are a very formidable and effective carving tool. You can find my classes at Airbnb Experiences, 'You Can Carve A Beautiful Wood Spoon'. The classes are very popular and people are creating the most beautiful wood spoons and other utensils. For images of what others have been making, look at the pics on my Instagram. Search RitualWoodcraft on Instagram to see many images full of ideas and inspiration.
Certainly. If it’s good steel, and it will hold an edge against wood, I don’t see why you couldn’t. Especially if it’s a tool you are familiar with. Choke up on it, maybe even hold it with your thumb over the broadside of the metal so that you have full control and experiment. That’s the fun and the wonderful quality of working with your hands, do it feels good to you.
@@wildbuslife Oh THANK-YOU Tom! I've asked on several videos but so far you are the only one to have responded. It's like this; in the little town where I live there is a MAGICAL second-hand/junk/thrift/vintage shop. It's like The Room Of Requirements in the Harry Potter books. Anyway, just yesterday I asked Bill if he had any axes. He said no, but he'd keep an eye out. Then he said 'Just a moment,' turned to a shelf behind the counter and handed me a cleaver. And my first inclination was to whine that I didn't WANT a cleaver I wanted a AXE. Until I took it from him and saw the Ochsenkopf logo. He wanted FIFTY RAND for it! To put that into perspective the South African Rand is currently 20 to the US$ and 24 to the €. Right. So I went online to see if I could find a realistic value for this thing. And I found one IDENTICAL to mine but a bit bigger - but not in as good condition. And it was already sold. For FIFTEEN HUNDRED RAND! You need to see this thing Tom - the BALANCE is INDESCRIBABLE. It feels SO RIGHT in my hand! I think it's high carbon steel and I think it was made before Gedore got their claws on the Ochsenkopf Company. The way the logo alone is inscribed on the blade is a work of art. It's also as blunt as a cucumber and I haven't THE FIRST idea how to sharpen it but there's a woodworking firm here that can maybe do it for me and failing that there's a good engineering firm. Thanks again Tom, take care!
This is the most graceful wooden spoon I've seen here on YT ! I came to this video because of the beautiful thin handle. Thank you so much for your great advises and being so encouraging! I have no bandsaw, but with a little bit (or a lot!😊) of patience it will come out well with hand tools. Hardwood is a good choice if you put so much effort in it. Soft wood would be used too fast, and is not a good choice for a spoon with a hook. Greetings from France!
Good morning sir, a cordial greeting from the Loreto region, Peru. What hand tools Should I have, should I have adze, measure? Should I have gouges, measure? Ax, measure? Please help me, I am going to move into the jungle where there is wood and kitchen utensils such as plates, spoons, bowls, etc. do not arrive. God bless you greatly.
Rolando, hello! I would definitely have an assortment of axes. Large for felling trees to small for hand held carving. The Adze will prove to be valuable for hollowing out bowls, seats for log construction and everything in between so, yes, and adze or two. A drawknife for shaping will make your life easier too. And certainly, an assortment of chisels and gouges and carving knives, whatever you are able to get. Work with nature and enjoy the bounty of the jungle!
@@wildbuslife, thanks for answering my comment For starters I have a Collins # 4 ax the gouges do not reach here so much, the chisels could get What is the carving knife? What is the seat for the construction of logs? If you can send me photos of the seat and the carving knife and the other tools to this whatsapp number: +51918416283 Very grateful in advance.
Going to Philippines next weekend on vacation. I am planning on bringing back a piece of molave. Do you think this would be good for carving a spoon?. Thanks, Andrew.
Molave is a prized wood because of it's strength and hardness and to me, that makes it a great candidate for a spoon or utensil as it should smooth out very well and make a strong spoon. I say 'should' because I have no personal experience working with it. I don't know how it carves or how it is to work with using hand tools. But my opinion is that the best way to find out is to try it and see.
I have a question. I wonder where to find the technique/what to look for/google where you use just the knife to smoothen the surface. I've been to an entrance exam for a luthier school and they tested us by having us carve a knife to show our handiness etc. We could only use a knife - no sanding paper allowed to finish the surface. Most videos I watched prior the exam just used sandpaper since it's logical to do that. But I noticed that some knew how to use a knife to make a smooth surface but I couldn't figure out how. I just managed to scratch it. 🤣
That a good question that others also, undoubtedly have. Have you ever used or are you familiar with using a scraper? If not, take some time to familiarize yourself with those techniques. They will give you that 'ah-ha' moment. Once you get that (and it's not difficult once the process is explained to you) you will be able to translate that technique to a knife blade and using a knife blade as a scraper. Can't remember if I have made any videos that address that directly but I do go over it in a couple of videos. Right now, I am in the process of moving my shop and don't have time to search it out for you regarding my own videos. Stumpy Nubs is a good teacher and here is a link to one of his videos. From there you will find others. czcams.com/video/IaTXNbquLOA/video.html. And, while you won't be able to flex and bend the blade of a knife, much of the technique of using a scraper will be transferrable to using a knife blade.
@@wildbuslifeOMFG I'm so stupid! 😵🤣Besides the beginning of shaping the neck (making my first guitar) where I used a belt sander and sanding block, I mostly shaped the neck with a scraper...! I just didn't connect the dots that I could've used the knife in a similar fashion. And if I'm honest, I haven't learned properly how to sharpen the blade (I did try using both wet sanding paper and finishing it with a leather strop but I feel I might've have achieved to make it duller rather than sharper 🤣) whereas I know/learned how to sharpen a scraper's edge (using a rasp and to me it's not exactly the same). Thanks! If I don't get accepted to the school for the first time, at least now I know how to get it smooth the next time. And well, I def will spend some time learning how to sharpen the whittling knife correctly. Sadly I have to admit that the long test of having to carve a knife at one go (it took me around 7 hours I think and I'm left with sore fingers and arm) while not really being good at sharpening, has rather left me with negative and unpleasant feelings about whittling/carving in general. :( Especially the first several hours that were dedicated to removing lots of wood (especially the part that became the wooden blade, so removing maybe 5/6 amount of the wood) to get the rough shape of the object was really an unpleasant task for me (I wished through that time I was allowed to use a band saw to roughly cut the shape to remove most of the extra wood and then resume to do the actual carving work). And I'm glad I brought my own knife (I got a Mora, it was the only one I could find locally, didn't have time to order online/abroad), they had knives for us, also carbon steel but they were considerably bigger and definitely too big for me (female, if we go by nitrile glove sizing, well, medium size or 7 1/2 in other gloves on average). Hard to do detailed work with such a big blade. If one of the reasons for the test was to test our resilience despite the frustration and pain, well, it did achieve to test mine. 🤣I really wanna go to the school, so giving up wasn't really an option.
@@molekyyli Sharpening a knife blade is a process that seems very hard, almost impossible at times. But once you begin to learn, it becomes easier and easier until it is automatic and you wonder how it was ever so difficult. Watch YT videos on how to do it. Better tools become dull slower so good steel is a worthy investment. A Mora is a good knife. You will do well and simply remember to enjoy even the frustrating process of learning.
You could do that however the wood removed would be a circle, with a flat bottom and a pilot point hole in the middle. Carving with a chisel or gouge is the most pleasurable part of this experience to me so, I wouldn't do it.
You need to leave more thickness in the narrowest parts of the neck and handle of the spoon (it should not flex at all) and technically you haven't followed the grain of the wood but all in all a good looking result.
FaZe, the good wood surrounding retted wood or naturally damages wood can have the most interesting grain, Sources abound, use your imagination and try unlikely sources I commonly use remnants from my furniture building business but, I also find myself staring at firewood, looking down as I walk in the woods, examining old cast away furniture -- Look for trees that have been cut down -- Also, often times lumber yards have a cut-off bin with ends and pieces of wood they discard and you can get these for free!
Sir, nice spoon but I think that if you don't start taking care of yourself you won't be doing this for too long. Even though you are sanding outside the fine dust produced by that sander WILL reach your lungs from where it cannot be cleaned out. As you know all wood has dry sap in it, this sap is crystalline and very hard and it acts like sandpaper wearing your lungs from the inside out; worse than smoking.
Many people feel that way. When the tools used are not the 'traditional' tools they may be used to, it can even be hard for some to hear the process referred to as 'carving' But in its essence, is is carving, and even 'hand-carving' even though it employs a different set of tools. The knife is a wedge, the saw is a series of tiny wedges in a line. The powered saw is simply a machine to power the process of moving the blade. The chisel is also a wedge, a cutting and carving blade. The gouge is also. The scraper is a blade utilizing the same physics as a wedge too. And it is a carving tool. Modern abrasives work on the same principal and are formidable carving tools. Everything about this process is about carving and shaping a piece of dried hardwood into a spoon or other utensil, with the tools, using your hands to guide the wood and the tools, to create something by removing wood from around that final shape. So, yes, it is appropriate to call these carved wooden spoons as that is exactly the process and what they are, whether or not that process uses the same tools and/or methods you are accustomed to. But you are entitled to your own opinion. So it's more appropriate for you to say 'I wouldn't call this carving' rather than to presume to speak for me.
Very nice spoon! Good instruction! But why would you use green wood tools on a piece of dry Ash, are you trying to make some kind of point that doesn't make any sense?
I begin with cured/dried wood, scraps from my furniture projects which require aged/dried/cured/stable wood. Green wood is an entirely different animal, you need to plan to 'go with' the shrinking, cracking, checking and you can only make your best guess as to what that will be. Once a wooden spoon, carved out of aged, cured, dried, stable wood is made, it is relatively easy to keep it from cracking. The oil you use helps to keep it stable. The USE alone will help because it will absorb oils from use. So, ther are a lot of variables and no guarantees except that you can bet nature will simply do whatever it wants. I can say though that, to date, I have never had one crack. And I've left some partially finished, without oil, in my shop for over a year. Don't recommend that, but all the same, so far, none have ever cracked on me.
really? I made a spoon out of 15 year old aged cherry wood, and 10 days after the spoon was made, the handle had a small crack while sitting in a drawer. What can i do? Just note that i quickly wipe down all my spoons with olive oil after they are done.
You've got that Bob Ross thing going on in your video's.
" You don't have to do it this way. It's your spoon, do what feels good to you."
Put a smile on me, nice job.
Exactly what I thought while watching the video!
I am 17 and just getting in to wood working I want to say that some of the tips you have in this video where very helpful thank you
Great spoon, great commentary and demonstration for folks like me that have never made a spoon. Hope you do many more on you tube.
You're like the Bob Ross of spoon carving 😁
I love your spoon and your just so nice and supportive in the video it makes me smile
Thank you Emir.
That really is a beautiful spoon. My first exposure to your channel. Of course I subscribed.
If I may add, that you should have wet that spoon down with water after your final sanding to raise the fibers, let it dry completely and final sand it again before you oil it. It makes a big difference on how smooth you will get it and how smooth it will stay with use.
I think mineral oil is great at first to soak the spoon. For at least an hour, and then follow up with a blend of mineral oil and melted beeswax.
Great job on the shape and the execution.
I don’t think I have mineral oil or bees wax, how well does water work?
I love how encouraging you are!
Learned something new. Nicely done. Thanks for the video Tom.
PaulOrientedotcom
Would you please CC your videos, as i am deaf. Instructions mean so much. Thanks.
I’m not a good typer but maybe try using Siri or something with voice type, you will at least get a funny response if it doesn’t work.
You have to do it yourself. Tape the video screen and in the top right hand side of the screen a boxed CC should pop up. Tap on it and you'll have your subtitles.
Great tutorial! And I really love your supervisor at the end!
Tom, very well done. A beautifully balanced spoon that is pleasing to the eye. Your video was superbly clear, well constructed and very well narrated. A true "how to" video, using minimal tools and also giving alternatives for people who do not have a workshop full of high end power tools.
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this excellent video; a true resource for any budding spoon carver.
A foot note on "wetting"...
A good alternative to water for raising the grain prior to finishing is denatured alcohol, it will lift or raise the grain and dry quickly, this can be repeated several times, making the surface, smooth and hard, that will ultimately keep your work from being ruined the first time it is introduced to the stockpot.
Best wishes from England.
Thank you Darren and yes, to raise and remove the feathering before the spoon goes into use I would agree, denatured alcohol, is an efficient and smart way to go!
A great video! This video has given me the confidence to make a spoon for a gift for my daughter. Thank you!
Nice Vid Tom...Just found it. Just getting into carving...I like your approach. Well done.
Thank you for the huge inspiration in my own spoons works.
Great instructional video. Very helpful. Wetting the wood and sanding again does help make it smoother.
Lovely film, instructional and therapeutic at the same time. I'd have kept that block of wood for something, maybe to prop something up, but would never have thought to carve a spoon out of it. Thanks for sharing.
This was by far the most enjoyable of videos on spoon making
I love that you said to use the tools I have,
I feel much more confident in giving it another try .
Thankyou
Thank you Lyn. Check out this one... czcams.com/video/AiU9mRUNGc0/video.html
It's long but covers the techniques in detail.
Perfection! Thanks for sharing with the world!
Nice work, I am a wood worker and small figure carver and this makes me want to try my hand at spoons. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you for posting. Wonderful teaching style.
Thanks for sharing this video, you've done an awesome job!
Excellant job done with nicely guide words. Great job.
Love it.
Thank you Zahid.
Your teaching style is fantastic. You're postive, you keep it feeling light and easy, you give the student the power to do their spoon how THEY want, giving the student control. Sir. .I thank you.
You are like the Bob Ross of spoon carving.
thanks for taking the time to post this, you have inspired me to give it a try. A curved gouge is on my wish list so I might buy one for this project, if you chance could you let me know what sweep your large chisel is.
Great job and description!
Very nice work. I like how you were able to hand carve the bowl with gouges. Nice detail on the back of the bowl where there is a gentle spine detail that shows. One of the best spoon carvings videos I have seen. Thanks.
Thank you Dave. I have found that, depending on the wood you use and the way you use the natural strength of the linear grain, you can make very thin bowels and slender necks and yet carve a spoon that is strong and durable. I am aching to ring greenwood that I can use but I reside in the heart of LA and need a source other than palm trees and pines. I will try eucalyptus soon but that may be too aerobatic for spoons. I like maple and would like to find some birch!
Have you considered Mimosa? Beautiful hard wood that might be in your area.
Great vid, great spoon! Hope I can patient enough with the sanding to make one too! ✌️
I recommend doing it while you watch a show or listen to music
Thank you for sharing 👍🏽
Very nice. I have just started spoon making myself and been having a lot of fun with it. I have found that I like to take a extra step with mine. I give them a good wash in water to swell up the grain. A smooth spoon gets very rough with that first wash. I then give it another fine sanding and coat of oil.
Marty, thats an astute consideration but I would like to know how it works for you if you don't mind getting back to me. What I'm wondering is that if you soaked the wood again later (or simply left it in the stock pot too long) would it get fuzzy again? Also, since I am new to this myself, I would appreciate your experiences with different kinds of wood. Thanks!
Tom Ford i can actually answer this one. dry wood when finished is nice and smooth. when you wet it you take the smooth wood and swell it up, when it dries it leaves some bits sticking up. when you sand those off the wood does not have any grain to swell in that direction since you sanded the bits off and should not get rough again.
Hi could you tell me how long you need to soak it for, you might have already it in the reply’s but for some reason I can’t read long replies (tech issue) Could you tell me in like 2 or 3 lines?
I’ve been wondering which locally available wood is best suited for spoon carving, and hearing that birch is well suited is great news, as it’s abundant around my home.
Great project! I would recommend finishing the wood with a melted beeswax and mineral oil blend. It will protect the wood a little better then just mineral oil. The oil should be used routinely to keep the wood from drying and cracking.
Matthew Stewart absolutely!
Perfect!
If you add beeswax do you still have to oil it ever so often, and if so, how often should you oil not beeswaxed wood?
Just what I needed to see. I recently started making spatulas and use the rolling technique on the belt sander for the handles. I have a carving burr from Kutzall arriving today and will be making spoons. I cannot wait. Beautiful work.
Very well made video, thank you.
That spoon is a work of art. That's a great gift indeed!
That was a gorgeous spoon! I liked the way you did the video and you gave lots of good advice. I have been carving for only about six months so far and feel I am beginning to make some nice spoons. I too have discovered that dry ash carves fairly nicely. I also find that the spoon often tells me how it should be shaped and finished. I have not tried using a curved gouge yet. I am using a Flexcut set of tools and a scorp to shape the bowl and a carving knife to shape and scrape the handle. You can also put a little water in the bowl as you are carving to soften the grain, which makes it easier. I find the bandsaw and belt sander are great tools for removing extra wood and shaping the spoon. I do use small pieces of sandpaper rather than full sheets like you do especially in the bowl area. I feel that the sandpaper takes the shape of my fingers or thumb as I sand the bowl. Like one of your other commenters mentioned, if you wet down the spoon with a wet rag after your final sanding it will raise the grain and then you can either wait till it dries to resand it or use a wet-dry sandpaper while it is still wet to achieve a really smooth finish. I have used both tung oil and mineral oil as finishes and have also done some with a stain to bring out the grain and then water based MinWax Polycrylic over that, which the manufacturer says is food safe once it is cured. Thank you so much!
You said practice makes perfect. I like to say practice makes better. Perfect is relative.
Very good video. Keep up the hard work. God Bless
beautiful....a treasure......congratulations.
Ahh yes, time for me to come out of my cave, steal my dads wood scraps and start a project I will very possibly drop completely in a week.
Rose, i never like to do the same thing too often. I need to keep mixing it up or I get bored. This has translated into many careers and lots of hobbies. But spoon carving. Something about it. And so many ways to do it! so many possibilities and styles... and even when I teach classes everyone, without exception so fat, likes it and is surprised as to how much they enjoy it. Even those wh 'get a spoon carving class' as a surprise gift, come here not knowing what they are going to do and, when they find out what, are LESS than enthusiastic. Soo, about 10 minutes into it, that's all forgotten and they are enjoying themselves. Come over one day and let's make spoons!
I watched all, and did enjoy... and thanks....
Fantastic video, I enjoyed every second of it
Would like to see a video on box making using finger joints using a table saw. Thank you. Or could you recommend a different person that does that. Loved your video. I also love to carve spoons.
Kathy, coincidently, I just cut some box joinery on the table saw yesterday. You must have infiltrated my mind. I will make a video on that!
Parabens ... Muito bom from Brazil
you are an artist sir
It turned out nice, as expected. FINE JOB
Thank You!
overall nice video. You like your tools. 15:30 the way you present the wood carving knive it looks like you want it to fail. You hold it like you are peeling an apple..
Nice video, but I'm not sure that it was a good advice to give to newbies to cut with the bandsaw "in air"...
Wow, very nice spoon and video!!
Very nice I learned allot. Thanks I will try it and let you know how it worked out.
thank you! Happy 2019
Well done....I tend to use spalted firewood, which is mostly oak, with a hook knife and straight knife, then belt sanding for final rounding out. Great tutorial.
Great Job! I'm just getting started in spoon carving and want to know what are the best woods and also the ones to avoid. Thanks you for teaching us your craft.
The first answer is, start with just whatever you have. Then, let me say that I think tighter grain hardwoods work the best for me. Mahogany, walnut, maple, all make beautiful spoons but I have used ash, even oak and pine. If the wood you have in mind has an aroma or taste that may get into whatever you may use it for, consider that and be mindful of woods that could be toxic, especially treated woods. As for me (again) I really like the way mahogany carves, true and sure AND you can sand it to the be almost like glass. Have fun and experiment! There are so many great woods available and it may just depend on the part of the world that you call home.
Tom Ford I was under the impressing that some woods can be toxic, I would just look it up before using a particular wood.
Beautiful work.
Sorry to pop most everybody's bubble regarding the comments below, but as someone who has been doing traditional Swedish spooncarving for over two decades, and have even spent some time will Wille Sundqvist in Sweden, this spoon is designed & made disregarding the understanding of wood grain direction, and will not last very long before breaking. Besides the fact that it is flat and straight, with little curvature to make it comfortable for the hand to use. For more information, look up 'traditionally carved Swedish wooden spoons' .
Not trying to be negative or knock the woodworker in this video - just wanted to show a different approach...
The soon is already 4 years old and is doing just fine under normal use, ash is a strong and tenacious wood. For a different approach feel free to look through my other videos, there are many variants of spoon design and carving techniques. And, fee free to direct us to your own videos.
Nice ! Thank you !!!
Try to hot glue the cutouts back to your blanks to recover the shapes and have a much a safer cut........
Great idea but, even simpler...I now cut them out After I'm done with the chisel and scraper. Look at my later videos like czcams.com/video/Fd0JMzLunDw/video.html
I've Made Guitar Picks A Napkin
Holder. I've Refished Canes I've
Brought Home Frome Thriftstores.
I've Also Refinished A Guitar.
for the side profile why not tape or hot glue the 2 cutoffs to the spoon piece? this will square up the piece to the saw blade and make it very stable as you cut it.
That sounds like a good idea to me.
Good design but I was wondering if you might have more strength in the thinnest section if you had followed the grain so it ran straight and true through the entire length of the spoon. It's like buying a shovel handle, if the grain does not run straight through the length of the wood then it will break along the grain when being used. Just a thought.
Exactly and I usually follow the grain in my designs but it's still OK if the wood you have available does not permit an orientation that will allow you to 'follow the grain.
Excellent!
I Didn't Have A Scrollsaw Blade
Meant For Cuttint Hardwoods
Like Oak Or Maple
So I Used My Oscillating Tool
& It Worked Just Great.
What gouge and other tools please! Just learning and loving this.
Hi Rob and thanks for watching. As far as gouges, thru trial and error I have found that very good tools really do matter as far as the level of control I can manage while carving. Also, sharpening gouges is a necessary skill to learn because the importance of sharp tools cannot be understated. And very good tools hold their edge much better than inferior steel which makes sharpening something you need to do less frequent. I really have come to like the Pfiel brand of Swiss chisels and gouges. They are costly (about $60 each) however, in my opinion, they are worth it. I mostly use 3 gouges, the 7L 20, 7L 25 and 7 30. The 7L 20 and 25 are swept (curved rather than straight) and are better suited for reaching into the bowl of a spoon. If I had to choose 1 I would go with the 7L 25 and I ordered mine thru Amazon because I was unable to source them locally. For nives I like the Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade (2.4-Inch) for the same reasons... stays sharp and makes my job easier. That said, cured or dry wood carving is different than green wood carving. In some ways it's more challenging (wood is much harder) in other ways (less warping, twisting and splitting) it's easier. These tools work well with either. I also purchased the Deepwoods Small Spoon Bowl Cup Carver Kuska Wood Carving Knife and I especially like it because the thick blade that is rounded (not thin or sharp) on the back side allows me to push the back of the blade with my thumb as I turn my wrist while carving. This adds a lot of control. Watch my video 'Carving An Industrial Sized Wooden Spoon' czcams.com/video/AiU9mRUNGc0/video.html. and you will see much more of the technique I use with the gouge, scrapers, sandpaper and sander.
LOL “if you use the rounded shaper to , give your bowl a round shape “ 🤣🙃👌
When i watched your knife working, i finally understood why you use machinery so much. 🤭 But still, very nice sooon, love it!
Can you use sumac? I'm trying to find a use for it and thought about making spoons. Love the video, put in my favorites.
Sumac, that's a complex question because there are different genus and some significant differences between them. I would research your specific source carefully. For instance, the Rhus coriaria plant and is totally safe and even considered to have health benefits while other varieties are known as Poison Sumac.
Some species of Sumac have been reported to cause skin irritation. Most species that produce strong skin reactions (mostly through contact with leaves), such as Posion Sumac, are in the Toxicodendron genus, rather than the Rhus genus.
The Rhus genus is considered to be a superfood spice version and the spice comes from the berries of the Rhus coriaria plant and is totally safe to eat. "It's a versatile spice with a tangy, lemony, but also fruity flavor," says Dawn Lerman, MA, CHHC, LCAT, a board-certified nutrition expert. The fruit's berries form in dense clusters on bushes, which are native to the Middle East. "They're then dried into a tangy purplish or maroon spice that's high in antioxidants," Lerman says. It can be found in whole berry form, but more often you'll find it in spice markets as a powder.
The Health Benefits of Sumac
Antioxidants are one of the biggest health benefits of sumac spice, says Despina Hyde, MS, RD, CDN, CDE, at NYU Langone Medical Center. "Sumac ranks very high on the ORAC chart, which ranks foods' antioxidant capacity," she says. "That's the ability to neutralize the free radicals that can cause cancer, heart disease, and signs of aging." These antioxidants also make sumac a great addition to an anti-inflammatory diet, which can ward off illnesses like coronary heart disease, says Kristen Kirkpatrick, a registered dietitian and manager of nutrition services at the Cleveland Clinic Wellness Institute. Sumac has been shown to have a positive effect on diabetes patients. One study found that daily intake of the superfood for a period of three months lead to a lower risk of cardiovascular disease among participants with type 2 diabetes.
So, you see, it's important to know the wood you use. The benefits and/or toxicity that may be present in the leaves and/or berries of a species may or may not be present in the wood. I don't know all these answers. Consider that a wood spoon may be left to simmer in a pot of stock which is a very effective method or extracting whatever good or bad the wood may contain and incorporating it into whatever it is you are simmering. Beyond the safety or health considerations there is also the matter of taste and what any wood might contribute or take away from the enjoyment of your food.
Fortunately, we have resources to investigate that are easily accessible via the internet and I would advise that you research any questions you may have to your own satisfaction first. Better safe than sorry.
Красиво конечно....
Но - данное "изделие", Является Мёртвым!!!
Только топор и нож !
Ótimo trabalho
Bem pratico
Obrigado Cicero! É divertido e gratificante.
Nice vid Tom well shot and great commentary only thing I wood like to see you carve not using power tools ...Danial
Danial, I apply different methods for carving, some use power tools and some hand tools. Primarily, on green wood carved spoons, I use all hand tools. When I use cured/dried hardwoods and power tools are available to me I make use of them. They keep my time applied to each spoon down and, therefore, the cost of each spoon. Time is money. Come take one of my spoon carving classes and you can watch and learn a variety of techniques that I employ to carve wood spoons. I use cabinet scrapers frequently, like a spoke shave, especially on hardwoods and they are a very formidable and effective carving tool. You can find my classes at Airbnb Experiences, 'You Can Carve A Beautiful Wood Spoon'. The classes are very popular and people are creating the most beautiful wood spoons and other utensils. For images of what others have been making, look at the pics on my Instagram. Search RitualWoodcraft on Instagram to see many images full of ideas and inspiration.
Tom, may I ask a question? I have a beautiful vintage Ochenskopf cleaver (600gms). Can I use it for axing out a blank in place of an axe?
Certainly. If it’s good steel, and it will hold an edge against wood, I don’t see why you couldn’t. Especially if it’s a tool you are familiar with. Choke up on it, maybe even hold it with your thumb over the broadside of the metal so that you have full control and experiment. That’s the fun and the wonderful quality of working with your hands, do it feels good to you.
@@wildbuslife Oh THANK-YOU Tom! I've asked on several videos but so far you are the only one to have responded. It's like this; in the little town where I live there is a MAGICAL second-hand/junk/thrift/vintage shop. It's like The Room Of Requirements in the Harry Potter books. Anyway, just yesterday I asked Bill if he had any axes. He said no, but he'd keep an eye out. Then he said 'Just a moment,' turned to a shelf behind the counter and handed me a cleaver. And my first inclination was to whine that I didn't WANT a cleaver I wanted a AXE. Until I took it from him and saw the Ochsenkopf logo. He wanted FIFTY RAND for it! To put that into perspective the South African Rand is currently 20 to the US$ and 24 to the €. Right. So I went online to see if I could find a realistic value for this thing. And I found one IDENTICAL to mine but a bit bigger - but not in as good condition. And it was already sold. For FIFTEEN HUNDRED RAND! You need to see this thing Tom - the BALANCE is INDESCRIBABLE. It feels SO RIGHT in my hand! I think it's high carbon steel and I think it was made before Gedore got their claws on the Ochsenkopf Company. The way the logo alone is inscribed on the blade is a work of art. It's also as blunt as a cucumber and I haven't THE FIRST idea how to sharpen it but there's a woodworking firm here that can maybe do it for me and failing that there's a good engineering firm. Thanks again Tom, take care!
This is the most graceful wooden spoon I've seen here on YT !
I came to this video because of the beautiful thin handle.
Thank you so much for your great advises and being so encouraging! I have no bandsaw, but with a little bit (or a lot!😊) of patience it will come out well with hand tools.
Hardwood is a good choice if you put so much effort in it. Soft wood would be used too fast, and is not a good choice for a spoon with a hook.
Greetings from France!
Merci and follow me on instagram @RitualWoodcraft
Nice
I Used A Rotary Tool With A
Carving Bit To Make My Spoon Rest
Spoon carving on the bandsaw
Good morning sir, a cordial greeting from the Loreto region, Peru. What hand tools Should I have, should I have adze, measure? Should I have gouges, measure? Ax, measure? Please help me, I am going to move into the jungle where there is wood and kitchen utensils such as plates, spoons, bowls, etc. do not arrive. God bless you greatly.
Rolando, hello! I would definitely have an assortment of axes. Large for felling trees to small for hand held carving. The Adze will prove to be valuable for hollowing out bowls, seats for log construction and everything in between so, yes, and adze or two. A drawknife for shaping will make your life easier too. And certainly, an assortment of chisels and gouges and carving knives, whatever you are able to get. Work with nature and enjoy the bounty of the jungle!
@@wildbuslife, thanks for answering my comment
For starters I have a Collins # 4 ax
the gouges do not reach here so much, the chisels could get
What is the carving knife?
What is the seat for the construction of logs?
If you can send me photos of the seat and the carving knife and the other tools to this whatsapp number: +51918416283
Very grateful in advance.
It Would Be Better To Power Carving Bit Set. With A Rotary
Tool
Nice 👌
Going to Philippines next weekend on vacation. I am planning on bringing back a piece of molave. Do you think this would be good for carving a spoon?. Thanks, Andrew.
Molave is a prized wood because of it's strength and hardness and to me, that makes it a great candidate for a spoon or utensil as it should smooth out very well and make a strong spoon. I say 'should' because I have no personal experience working with it. I don't know how it carves or how it is to work with using hand tools. But my opinion is that the best way to find out is to try it and see.
I have a question. I wonder where to find the technique/what to look for/google where you use just the knife to smoothen the surface. I've been to an entrance exam for a luthier school and they tested us by having us carve a knife to show our handiness etc. We could only use a knife - no sanding paper allowed to finish the surface. Most videos I watched prior the exam just used sandpaper since it's logical to do that. But I noticed that some knew how to use a knife to make a smooth surface but I couldn't figure out how. I just managed to scratch it. 🤣
That a good question that others also, undoubtedly have. Have you ever used or are you familiar with using a scraper? If not, take some time to familiarize yourself with those techniques. They will give you that 'ah-ha' moment. Once you get that (and it's not difficult once the process is explained to you) you will be able to translate that technique to a knife blade and using a knife blade as a scraper. Can't remember if I have made any videos that address that directly but I do go over it in a couple of videos. Right now, I am in the process of moving my shop and don't have time to search it out for you regarding my own videos. Stumpy Nubs is a good teacher and here is a link to one of his videos. From there you will find others. czcams.com/video/IaTXNbquLOA/video.html. And, while you won't be able to flex and bend the blade of a knife, much of the technique of using a scraper will be transferrable to using a knife blade.
@@wildbuslifeOMFG I'm so stupid! 😵🤣Besides the beginning of shaping the neck (making my first guitar) where I used a belt sander and sanding block, I mostly shaped the neck with a scraper...! I just didn't connect the dots that I could've used the knife in a similar fashion. And if I'm honest, I haven't learned properly how to sharpen the blade (I did try using both wet sanding paper and finishing it with a leather strop but I feel I might've have achieved to make it duller rather than sharper 🤣) whereas I know/learned how to sharpen a scraper's edge (using a rasp and to me it's not exactly the same). Thanks! If I don't get accepted to the school for the first time, at least now I know how to get it smooth the next time. And well, I def will spend some time learning how to sharpen the whittling knife correctly.
Sadly I have to admit that the long test of having to carve a knife at one go (it took me around 7 hours I think and I'm left with sore fingers and arm) while not really being good at sharpening, has rather left me with negative and unpleasant feelings about whittling/carving in general. :( Especially the first several hours that were dedicated to removing lots of wood (especially the part that became the wooden blade, so removing maybe 5/6 amount of the wood) to get the rough shape of the object was really an unpleasant task for me (I wished through that time I was allowed to use a band saw to roughly cut the shape to remove most of the extra wood and then resume to do the actual carving work).
And I'm glad I brought my own knife (I got a Mora, it was the only one I could find locally, didn't have time to order online/abroad), they had knives for us, also carbon steel but they were considerably bigger and definitely too big for me (female, if we go by nitrile glove sizing, well, medium size or 7 1/2 in other gloves on average). Hard to do detailed work with such a big blade.
If one of the reasons for the test was to test our resilience despite the frustration and pain, well, it did achieve to test mine. 🤣I really wanna go to the school, so giving up wasn't really an option.
@@molekyyli Sharpening a knife blade is a process that seems very hard, almost impossible at times. But once you begin to learn, it becomes easier and easier until it is automatic and you wonder how it was ever so difficult. Watch YT videos on how to do it. Better tools become dull slower so good steel is a worthy investment. A Mora is a good knife. You will do well and simply remember to enjoy even the frustrating process of learning.
That's a $50 spoon if I've ever seen one.
How about using forstner bits to start drilling the bowl of the spoon....and then use a rasp for the handle...
You could do that however the wood removed would be a circle, with a flat bottom and a pilot point hole in the middle. Carving with a chisel or gouge is the most pleasurable part of this experience to me so, I wouldn't do it.
The spoon inspector! At 33:20
Awesome thanks
That's a big crochet hook lol
Which wood is suitable for making spoons
I Made A Heart Shaped .spoonrest
Out Of Maple.
Excelent
the only problem with that first bandsaw cut is you just cut off the bowl shape you did
Try sharp knives and scrapers.
Meisterstück🤩
My Friend Who Makes Canes
Had His Mom Bring Me
A Crap Load Of Wood
You need to leave more thickness in the narrowest parts of the neck and handle of the spoon (it should not flex at all) and technically you haven't followed the grain of the wood but all in all a good looking result.
Lucky Chef
I’m a beginner at woodworking and I’m only finding rotting wood, damaged wood, or treated wood. Where can I find wood like this?
FaZe, the good wood surrounding retted wood or naturally damages wood can have the most interesting grain, Sources abound, use your imagination and try unlikely sources I commonly use remnants from my furniture building business but, I also find myself staring at firewood, looking down as I walk in the woods, examining old cast away furniture -- Look for trees that have been cut down -- Also, often times lumber yards have a cut-off bin with ends and pieces of wood they discard and you can get these for free!
Did You Make That Out Of Birch Or Maple?
Sir, nice spoon but I think that if you don't start taking care of yourself you won't be doing this for too long. Even though you are sanding outside the fine dust produced by that sander WILL reach your lungs from where it cannot be cleaned out. As you know all wood has dry sap in it, this sap is crystalline and very hard and it acts like sandpaper wearing your lungs from the inside out; worse than smoking.
the spoon is nice but i don't think u can call this carving
Many people feel that way. When the tools used are not the 'traditional' tools they may be used to, it can even be hard for some to hear the process referred to as 'carving' But in its essence, is is carving, and even 'hand-carving' even though it employs a different set of tools. The knife is a wedge, the saw is a series of tiny wedges in a line. The powered saw is simply a machine to power the process of moving the blade. The chisel is also a wedge, a cutting and carving blade. The gouge is also. The scraper is a blade utilizing the same physics as a wedge too. And it is a carving tool. Modern abrasives work on the same principal and are formidable carving tools. Everything about this process is about carving and shaping a piece of dried hardwood into a spoon or other utensil, with the tools, using your hands to guide the wood and the tools, to create something by removing wood from around that final shape. So, yes, it is appropriate to call these carved wooden spoons as that is exactly the process and what they are, whether or not that process uses the same tools and/or methods you are accustomed to. But you are entitled to your own opinion. So it's more appropriate for you to say 'I wouldn't call this carving' rather than to presume to speak for me.
Very nice spoon! Good instruction! But why would you use green wood tools on a piece of dry Ash, are you trying to make some kind of point that doesn't make any sense?
What tools would be good for carving from dried/cured wood? I didn't know there was a difference.
How do you keep the wood from cracking when drying?
I begin with cured/dried wood, scraps from my furniture projects which require aged/dried/cured/stable wood. Green wood is an entirely different animal, you need to plan to 'go with' the shrinking, cracking, checking and you can only make your best guess as to what that will be. Once a wooden spoon, carved out of aged, cured, dried, stable wood is made, it is relatively easy to keep it from cracking. The oil you use helps to keep it stable. The USE alone will help because it will absorb oils from use. So, ther are a lot of variables and no guarantees except that you can bet nature will simply do whatever it wants. I can say though that, to date, I have never had one crack. And I've left some partially finished, without oil, in my shop for over a year. Don't recommend that, but all the same, so far, none have ever cracked on me.
really? I made a spoon out of 15 year old aged cherry wood, and 10 days after the spoon was made, the handle had a small crack while sitting in a drawer. What can i do? Just note that i quickly wipe down all my spoons with olive oil after they are done.
Nice spoon but it looks like its finna snap