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How To Improve Tuning Stability: Plastic Nut VS TUSQ XL
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- čas přidán 13. 08. 2024
- In this episode of Tele on Steroids: I’ll try to improve the tuning stability of this guitar by replacing the nut, string trees and installing Graph Tech Ratio locking tuners. We’ll also find out if there’s any difference in tone between plastic nut and TUSQ XL by Graph Tech.
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#harleybenton #graphtech #diy
Graphtech nut and string trees did the job for me on my $30 dollars squier strat. It holds tuning perfectly. Thanks love the video!!
Tusq XL I am waiting on them to tell me which one as none that they have are even close to my Squier Stratocaster from 2004.
The nut only affects the open strings, so that's the only time you will hear a tonal difference from the nut. It's a nice feature, but I think tuning stability is ths main selling point for TUSQ nuts.
Right. Tuning stability is the main reason for install of tusq nut. Significantly lowered friction of strings in nut’s slots will cause better tuning, because string will return back to proper tension after bend. And, even small movement of peg will affect the tuning, there are no jumps of pitch, when pegs are turned. But, this is also improve a tone of guitar, even in chords without empty strings. When guitar is out of tune, tone is bad due interferences between strings. After proper tuning, tone and sustain are also better, because lot of string’s energy is not wasted for interferences. So, that’s the reason, why these materials can improve tone of guitar, even strings are holded on frets ...
True, but the open string notes will now ring more similar to a fretted note instead of that dead plastic sound from a crap nut.
I thought the same thing but through testing I found that the nut effects the tone even when fretted, the vibrations are still transferred to the nut even when fretting
@@viper341Exactly.. that’s why some player put foam or a hair tie above the nut. 🤔🤘🏼✌🏼
The nut affects how strings sound in any position of the fretboard.
Even if you fret a string anywhere on the fretboard, it still rests on the nut and tuners. Your fingers don't substitute those. For the sake of argument imagine what the guitar would sound like if the nut was made of rubber.
You are the best gear reviewer on CZcams period!
Wow, thanks!
I didn't see any bending after all the components were replaced.
That's how all of these product sponsored reviews are...they take it easy on the guitar after all the upgraded parts are installed
Great video! I always install a new graph tech nut on my guitars when I get them along with staggered locking tuners. Staggered tuners make the string trees unnecessary so the tuning stability is even better. It’s also a good idea to get a set of nut files so you can make the slots fit the exact gauge of string you’re using. I got a set on Amazon that match a 10-46 string gauge and now my guitar rarely goes out of tune.
Yes, if are slots too wide, it can cause a “sitar” tone, but if are too tight, string can stuck in slot. So, for optimal playability and tuning stability, correct slot width is really important. Optimal width is slightly wider than string’s gauge. And, is also good, if slots have shape of (very narrow) V letter, not exact shape of I letter ... it prevent problems with stuck of strings in nut, especially when slots are deeper, or when angle of strings from nut to peg is bigger.
Very nice video and very nice sound as well. But I need to say that any tuning stability test without doing string bends is incomplete.
The only thing I see missing is the that the Tusq nuts don't come slotted to the correct height. The slots are just a start point and need to be filed to the correct height with nut files.
Max, you rock! I like your down to earth presentation. No ego like the other max. Keep it up brother!
The other Max? Do I know him?
I also swapped the groove Graph Tech PT-6041-00 Black TUSQ XL on my Yamaha Pacifica 112V and installed the Graph Tech PRL-9721-C0
staggered post design tuners.
There are two things I would like to add, and I think they are very important. First, you should not use superglue in any case, wood glue or craft glue
is enough, and only two drops of it. You will never get the glued nut out again without damage to the guitar, by using superglue and so much.
Secondly, if you use the staggered design tuners, you usually don't need string trees anymore. With my Yamaha Pacifica 112 V, that was definitely the case.
Otherwise, a good post from you.
"The more you do this, the more of this substance is coming out of the nut." - Max, 2020
“Which greatly reduces the friction”
:D
I guess maturity is a subject some have mastered, then there are others.....
That's what she said
Wow I’m so impressed with the difference in sound and tuning stability, I have a PRS SE 24 custom which although is an amazing guitar it’s tuning stability is less than to be desired so I am looking into changing the nut and maybe some locking tuners. Superb video thank you.
I fitted the Graphtec string trees onto my Fusion RM and it helped greatly with tuning stability and trem action. The guitar was fitted with a Tusq nut as standard but it was a first run guitar with the infamous retainer bar.
Yeah, I wonder why wouldn't they install TUSQ string trees together with the nut at the factory
Yes, the Tusq trees look really nice with the roasted Maple, I got the Ivory coloured ones. The roller trees they use now work well but they look a bit industrial. Cheers! I should say I built the Tele kit a few years ago and so I am extra interested in your upgrades.
Very useful. I checked and both of my modern Epiphones came with Graph Tech nuts - otherwise I would get right on replacing them.
On my Schecter Nick Johnston guitar I once noticed that after using tremolo, only those strings for which there was a string tree were out of tune. So I replaced the tuners with the staggered ones and simply removed the string tree. Now this guitar holds tuning like crazy.
Interesting stuff Max. :) I found that the TUSQ XL 5000-00 nut was too small for my Harley Benton TE-20 upgrade project, but the TUSQ XL 5010-00 (flat bottom) nut was perfect and just needed a bit of sanding down in width and height. I also found (so far) that I didn't really need the TUSQ XL sleek string trees (PT-7004-00), as the tone was not noticably dull or rattly on the D, G, B or E strings, even with a shallow break angle. The Ratio tuners (PRL-8721/9721) are nice to have, but very over-priced, so I went for the Gotoh locking staggered (SG381-MG-T) tuners which are superb quality. I noticed that @ 3:52 you show a different TUSQ 5042-00 ST-Style nut - why is that?
Oh, it's just that Thomann don't have all the models in stock. But usually those nuts are about the same price regardless of the model.I found out, BQL-5043 is the best fit for imported strat and tele guitars (or whatever people call them in the US). Gotoh are good, may actually be higher end tuners than Ratio
Love your videos Max. I am going to make my first attempt at assembling a guitar this winter.
I will be referring back to past videos, and look forward to some others in future.
Thank you for spending the time to make the videos. You are a natural.
For sure going to replace the nut on my p bass ! ( soon to be a p/j bass as I am also adding a jazz neck pickup ) . Thanks for another great video .
Have fun!
Never released the nut can affect that much the guitar tone. However Im changing my nut and string trees. Thank you
THE best cheap upgrade I've made to my strat !!!! No more G-String or tuning issues , ever !!!
GraphTech nut and saddles added so much tone to my Yamaha Se300h it was like a new guitar 🤘🏽
Totally agree! Next time we'll try new saddles. In one of the next episodes
if you find a self healing nut material, please let me know as I had to get a second one due to my ineptitude with a crude file 😂
It's not out of tune, it's polytonal. :D
High E is just about falling off the fretboard .... Is that a nut spacing issue or bridge.???
Great videos! Clearly defined expectations and good pacing through the detail. It's clear that such mods will help both acoustic and electric!
Your video is very well produced!
Nice .I fit locking tuners a Tusq XL nut and roller string trees to every guitar I buy just to give it the best chance .I dont like the look of graph tech string trees myself.Ratio tuners are a great idea but a bit pricey .I just stick to Fender.
Great video, dubbed! Only critique....that's way too much CA glue. When you go to change it again or will take wood out with it. Try heating it first. If your using CA a little drop on the side is best. I just use titebond. With titebond you can adjust it but with CA pushing the nut done in the glue acts like a catalist and the CA glue cures quickly. That means if you're off a bit then you cant adjust it. With wood glue (titebond original) you can move it until it's just right and the strings will work as a clamp. But again CA can be perfectly fine to secure a nut but only use a very small amount. I build guitars (and guitar pedals) and CA glue is an invaluable tool with some accelerator for drop fills, sealing and securing micro cracks in the wood, filling knots, grain filling (when you need clear grain filler for an area that was missed and you've already shot a color coat etc. I'm building a telecaster right now in fact. Almost done with spraying the nitro finish. It's an all mahogany guitar except the maple freatboard. I'm really looking forward to doing the fret level, crowning and polishing then buffing/polishing the body and neck to a high gloss (I make the back of the neck more satin feeling with higher "grit" micro mesh). After that I can finally do the final assembly and play it lol!! I've been working on it since late November 2020.
Thanks Michael. The CA glue thing is one of the most popular type of comments under this video. I used this much glue on purpose. Later on I'll swap frets on this guitar to extra jumbo. This much glue helps to raise the nut a bit creating a solid base under it. The height will be perfect and I won't need to adjust anything once new frets are installed. It usually takes 3-4 attempts to get it right and the nut can be easily removed using pliers.
Wow, how about you show everyone how to cut/file a nut@@MaxSoloMusic
instead of changing their fret's PMSL
Wow! What a great result! I certainly learned something here. Thank you.
Great video! I'm gonna need to upgrade my nuts
There are rumors that some guitarists on CZcams speed up their video's to appear more skillful and technically proficient. No idea where that came from....:-)
Note to myself: slow down my next video to make it freaking confusing for everyone :)
Max, amazing Channel. I'm surprised tou don't haver 10x more subscribers. Max, can you test if graphtech sadles really make a diference in a strat type bridge? Tunning stability? I'm specially interested in the bend/tremolo situation. Keep on with the great work!
Hey. Thanks! I'll be checking Tele saddles soon. Don't have anything for a strat but 2 guitars I use for gigs have Graph Tech LB63 Floyd style tremolos with Ghost saddles and my impression is that strings do indeed live longer
Yes, in my experience, they do help a little bit with increasing string life. You should also know that similarly to the nut as demonstrated in this video, the saddle material also changes the tone of the guitar. The brightness and overtones from Graphtech is a special flavour. Some people love it, others don't. There are other videos on CZcams where you can hear a comparison of brass, Graphtech and steel saddles.
Thanks for this informative vid ;) Will definitly improve my 7 string with a graphtech!
Very informative and entertaining video thanks. Especially the tone comparison. Subbed and subscribed as a result. I have scrolled through all the comments though and not seen these two questions raised... 1. I'm led to believe that the staggered height tuners are designed to remove the need for string trees. Have you tested that theory with this build? 2. (String trees again) I see you did not use the string damper with the new set-up. Do the Graphtec trees also act as dampers? I appreciate I'm a year late to the party but if you find this comment I'd be grateful to hear your thoughts. I'm looking forward to checking your back catalogue, now that you're on my radar. 👍
Hey Dave. Staggered tuners help a bit but with a straight headstock usually it’s not enough. I didn’t try this guitar without string trees. I must have forgotten to put the damper back on. String trees alone don’t help vs resonance noise at the headstock
I, too, was surprised at the tonal difference of the new nut. I've got to try one on my Strat.
Max, you forgot about "silent block" of black foam. which you used with plastic nut =)
The damper? Doesn't make any difference on clean
I also replaced my nut with a tusq xl, it helped when I tuned in E standard but when I tuned down to D# it was out of tune again after playing it. any idea on what else to do. I have a schecter c1
Hi Max. Your vidoes are so interesting. You realy show us whats working or not. Thanks!
Glad you like them!
I installed graphtech nuts on pretty much all my guitars. Love their stuff! I am really interested to try their bridge saddles to upgrade my tele partscaster
Go for it! I'll be checking the saddles in one of the next episode of Tele On Steroids
What's that black Tesla thing?
I learned a lot from this video! I'm developing an invention for the Harp (not Guitar!) but a lot of this is very relevant. Thank you!
Your videos are amazing! So detailed and super well explained!
Thanks for sharing. Your videos are very clear, demonstrative. I learn a lot ! :)
Graphtech nuts are for sure the best. But you should have checked the string height at the first fret before glueing it.
Not entirely sure I'd put that much glue under the new nut. If you need to service or replace it in the future, you'll have a bit of a chore getting it off. Only takes a small amount to keep it in place, in my experience. I've seen guitars come with nuts that had very, very, very little to NO glue at all.
That was really interesting and it you do this it seems most of your tuning problems are over. I'm trying to convince my Gibson brand Loyalist brother who ahs 2 very expensive Les Pauls that sound and look amazing but they suck at staying in tune (of course)!
Да, GraphTech удивил! Тоже не ожидал настолько слышимой разницы. Задумался )
Отличный ролик, спасибо!
Я обратил внимание что у них есть еще характерный призвук. На отключенной гитаре его слышно
Great video - good job! I am building a similar "Telecaster" from a kit right now, and this video was very informative - thank you so much.
Cool, thanks!
First thing I do to any guitar I purchase is replace the nut or, at the the very least, go over it if it needs to be adjusted. I've rarely bought a guitar that I was completely happy with the way the nut was done. Same with saddles, string trees, and tuners. Guitars that slip out of tune even in the slightest drive me absolutely insane.
I've found TUSQ compliments mahogany bodied guitars better like on an SG or Les Paul. It sounds too bright for my tastes on my tele and would recommend to use graphite instead, but by all means, experiment and see what you like more.
I'll order those string trees too... Thank you for the info and this video sir. More power. 🙏🏽🎸🤘🏼
Thank you!
Fun and definitively useful. Thanks for the video
Nice vid man! Cheers from MX 🇲🇽
Another solution is using lube on the nut, string trees and saddles, if you don't want to go for the graphtech nut. If you don't want to buy the specific "nut" lube, bearing grease (like lithium) works great.
Great point! I've actually got some lub for the nut and stuff. Hope it will solve an issue i have with a couple of bridges
Beeswax
Almost never bended a string with garphtech. That's sad :(
Got a reverse inline headstock 8 string...will the trees work for the 7 and 8th string gauge? Just need to tree the 7 and 8 strings..thnx for your time
Went a little bit heavy with the glue....js..all you need is 2 drops
I like the floyd rose guitars so i don't have problem
Really great and well made video! thanks!
Thank you too!
Да, прожки Graph Tech реально похожи на искуственный камень по консистенции, хорошие порожки, особенно серия TUSQ XL, которые самосмазывающиеся, в них струны не застревают. А вот про колки не знал, прикольная разработка))
is there any cheaper alternative to those tuning machines (that you aware of)? I mean good locking ones.
thanks for this experiment btw
Fantastic Max!
Hey was a drop in replacement ?
Макс, сделай пожалуйста обзор на orange terror stamp, который в формате педали.
Мне неоткуда его взять, да и полно видео на него
Hey! Thanks for share, it was really helpful.
Do they make one to fit a squier affinity?
Thanks. Very useful video!
really proving :-) I love the chimey Tusq nut tone
my eyebrows went up with the amount of glue on a new nut, without checking it first ....you lucked out.
all you need is one drop, on one side;
then check it, and wick a little in on the other end if it's good...if not, it's just the one drop and you can knock it back out.
Huge difference
I have a brand new d'angelico Deluxe Atlanta. I'm having trouble with a g-string. The angle from the machine had to the nut is it at a large angle. It's a tusk nut. Is there anything I can do? Great video thank you
Thanks. Sounds like it could use a string tree
Great video! With the staggered tuners are the string trees necessary or do they add extra stability! Love the pickguard!
I can tell you that if you have enough break angle over the nut that you don't get any open string rattle, you won't need the trees. Much depends on string gage used. You can just try it to make the determination.
Great video
Good job! Thanks :)
Nice, I ordered the exact same nut for my Glarry Tele. Did you have to file the string slots at all?
I didn't. It's a little too high now but I'll probably change frets to jumbo at some point and it will be just right
How annoying is the mike dawes tuning ad before this?
Sorry to be a buzzkill - but not a word was spoken about a very important part of the task.
That is the nut string height slots which are next to impossible to just happened to be correct and that need to be filed to the right depth for any given guitar.
The all too common 'too high nut string slots' will cause notes and chords to be unacceptably sharp on the first few frets, which translates to a terrible sounding guitar no matter what the nut material is.
In addition you need to be sure that the string sits on only a very narrow part of the neck side of the nut.....and the remaining nut be tapered down on the headstock side of the nut.
A string sitting on too much of the nut over and above the very front of the nut will also sound noticeably off throughout the fretboard - aka - intonation issues.
Getting the strings VERY close in height to the top of the 1st fret is KEY if you want to be in tune throughout the fretboard length.
Yeah, but that's a different problem. A high nut will cause the guitar to be permanently out of tune on the first few frets, which is a stable condition. This video is about other things that make the tuning unstable. On the other hand, a perfectly low nut alone does not guarantee the guitar will stay in tune. The relative pitch difference between fretted notes on each string will be correct but the tension and the absolute pitch may still go up and down due to other mechanical problems
Good info - thanks. Can't seem to get a straight answer as to why the XL nut comes with the small peg sticking out in the middle of the bottom surface. Some say sand it off - others say it's necessary. There's no slot in the nut cavity to accommodate it so what's it for? I'm putting a Tusq in my Squier 50's Classic Vibe Stratocaster so I think I'm just going to sand it off. Ideas about this?
That tab gives you the option of using it in a flat or curved nut slot (some nut slots follow the curve of the fretboard radius some are just flat). Leave the tab on for flat. Remove tab for curved. My classic vibe 60's Strat nut slot was flat...but the nut was difficult to remove and I've heard this from multiple classic vibe owners, bc too much glue was used at factory (only need to use a few dabs of wood glue as the string pressure holds it in place well) so be very careful removing it. Score the finish with a razor blade, go VERY slow with pliers like he did, pull straight up not angled or you risk cracking the slot. I've learned the hard way.
@@jasonjonik5050 Thank you for the info.
As it turned out the Graphtech XL nut is too wide so I can't replace it on the CV 50's. My other home made Strat's slot is too deep causing the new nut to be way too low. Struck out so far in trying to replace the nut on two of my instruments. My other Strats are high end so I'll leave those as they are.
@@Rogijimbex Thats normal(but make sure you got the one specifically for Fender size). It was a little too wide on my classic vibe 60s Strat too, and you just have to sand/file down the ends to make it flush with the edges of the neck.
I usually put the low E and High E strings on to help find the perfect alignment for the new nut before gluing. (a few dabs of wood glue will do).
@@Rogijimbex PQL 500-00 TUSQ XL is the fender size one I got. I just had to sand/file the ends a bit and sand the bottom the bring the string height (clearance at the first fret) down to where I like it.
Nice video, thx.
I like your videos but this time my eyes hurt watching how much superglue you used. A drop in the middle is enough
That's the trick i use if a nut is not tall enough. That glue creates a solid uniform layer the nut sits on, so there are no dead spots. And for this one I needed the nut slightly taller since in one of the next episodes this guitar may get taller frets
How do you align the new nut in place? Is there a trick? Do you just use a string?
You can easily eyeball it - the main concern is the distance from the end of the fretboard to the low and high E string. If there is plenty of space, you can center the nut, and if space is a bit tight, you will either need to use another nut which fits better with your fretboard width, or give the high E string a little more space, because the low E never bends upwards.
thanks brother
1 or 2 drops of superglue is fine not a double layer
What's the black "Telsa" thing between the nut and the tuning machines?
Tesla. A string damper. I have a whole video on that thing - czcams.com/video/g3Tp5-hEgJ8/video.html
Have u heard of the Nut buster . it fits behind the Nut of ur guitar and u fine tune it like a floyd.its remarkable..
Yep, great invention! I'd love to try one some day
I don't think you need Super glue. A couple dabs of white carpenters should be sufficient. Makes a lot easier to remove down the road
Thanks for the video ! Which model of nut ended-up being the good one for your t-style kit ?
Thanks in advance :)
The one in the plastic bag, the 5043-00 happened to be the best. I figured it's exactly the same model as the HB Fusion-II has
@@MaxSoloMusic Thanks a lot ! :)
Очень приятная подача. Полезно и содержательно.
Ciao MAX!!! Bellissimo video👌🔥🤘🇮🇹🍷🎸🎸🎸
Top of the line mod...RocknRollflat5
Tusq XL I am waiting on them to tell me which one as none that they have are even close to my Squier Stratocaster.
The PQL-5000-00 should fit most Strat style guitars. If yours is slightly taller try 5010 instead. Just measure the one you have and you'll easily find a replacement at Graph Tech website, they have all the dimensions listed
@@MaxSoloMusic They just replied to me with - So after looking in to this I have come up with this little guy here. You will have to sand the length of this one down a bit, but it should be very close to a drop and play nut.
Louder and more high end
Make sure the slots are cut to the proper size for the string. And make sure the string actually slides in the slot before you put them on the guitar. Put pencil graphite in each slot before you lay the string in place. Consider taking the string trees off, I did and believe it actually helped, just one less thing the strings have to drag on when making tuning adjustments. And of course, make sure the string has enough extra length on it to get about 5 or 6 good wraps around the post at least.
I one day hope to get an EverTune to avoid this sort of trouble
The locking mechanism doesn’t aid tuning stability, it makes string changes easier. The quality of the tuners, combined with the new nut improve stability. Staggered tuners are designed to avoid the need for string trees. No criticism is meant - I hope this is helpful to someone thinking of making similar changes :)
Hi...good video,!
Did you have to re cut the nut slots??
They are preslotted. I think it will work for 9 gauge strings and 10's maybe but if you use larger gauge strings they may need to be filed a bit larger.
e@@davidrapant6398 Thanks Caribbean viewer here ...kepp up the good vids!!!
WOW!
Pretty sure you screw in the mounting plate AFTER you've placed the machine on it, not BEFORE you've put the machine on it.
If you have staggered tuning pegs…..why are you using trees?
I appreciate the quality of this video and the effort you put into it, but you didn't do a fair comparison at all.
With the old nut, you did crazy bends on the strings to stress test the tuning stability (which was the right thing to do), but when it came to the Tusq nut, you just played some riffs and licks without any intense bending? That is an unacceptably poor comparison. I'm sure the tuning stability did improve, but you did not do a good job at presenting that.
Is Telecaster your favorite guitar style?
Not at all. I'm new to Teles. I'm more a superstrat and an explorer guy
@@MaxSoloMusic Good to know, After watching your videos I think I´m going to build a telecaster for fun. I need to learn guitar electronics. Thanks Max.