How A Suit Should Fit | The Art of Manliness
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2024
- Learn how a suit should fit properly. For a text version see here: www.artofmanliness.com/2013/09...
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• - Jak na to + styl
Nice new job T-1000.
U posted this comment 5 years ago
bad for the following reasons:
1) shoulder: there's a little crown on the right shoulder but not on the left. it looks very obvious.
2) button: some creases when you button up the top button
3) sleeve length: nope i don't see 0.5 inch shirt appearing below the sleeve (left and right are not even balance)
+rtj182
1 and 2 are the result of cheap suits, like the type being advertised.
+rtj182 The moment it cut to him in the "well fitting suit". I was like: Oh, never mind then.
+ADQAutomotive I agree as a tailor myself. This suit is too tight for Eric. Biceps area is tight plus the shoulder is a bit too wide, so you can clearly see a dent from the side view. For off the rack suits, this is a very common problem for muscular type body.
+faro0485 This is where a true tailor really shines. Sometimes even a well tailored suit still just doesn't 'look right'. And a skilled tailor actually knows why, and what makes a suit look proper. Often it's down to incorrect or poor material choice. Material that is too thick. No matter how well the suit is made. You know how you can look at two men, side by side with tailored suits. And sometimes one will look really good, and sometimes something just looks wrong on the other. You can never quite tell what is wrong with it, just that it doesn't look GREAT, only not bad. That's material.
If you notice old style vintage suits - think Mad Men '60s era when they were all crafted by true artisans - all drape perfectly because they are very lightweight fabrics. They hug the body and flow very well. A suit is not meant to be heavy, most of the time. It's like the difference between wearing a cotton button up shirt, or a jumper. Bulky material does not flow well, no matter how well it fits.
Have a look at Cary Grant's suit in North by Northwest - often called the greatest film suit of all time - and observe just how thin the fabric is by the lapels and way it bunches. The collars are almost paper thin and paste down onto and around the neck like glue. That's what makes a suit look killer. It looks painted on - an extension of your body.
The model looks like he's trying to hold in a fart
WHY DOESN'T HE EVER BLINK? BLINK GOD DAMNIT BLINK!
He’s a robot lizard person hybrid
BLINK MODAFAKKA
I’m literally trying to see him blink, but he just does not
That model creeps me the fuck out. All he does is stare into the camera. I don't think he blinked once.
Samuel McGraw lol
Samuel McGraw I checked. He actually DID NOT BLINK even once! Dafuq! xD
Kwyat Man 4:29 LMAO HE TRIED
+clone 2k He is a shit model. Models are suppose to show case whatever in a way that is comfortable and like able to the consumer, this guy creeps me out with his death stare.
***** Dorcia? Friday night? How'd he swing that?
When there are three buttons its:
-Sometimes
-Always
-Never
Thank you! Was watching and did a "Waitaminnit" double-take.
Yeah, LOL it's basic, but the video says badly
THANK YOU.
Jfc how do they get this wrong?
Is he human? This guy doesn't even blink tf
lol
hes a reptilian
He doesn't get paid to blink
NappyBoy he blinked 4 times
The jacket and the pants are too tight, the shoulders are slightly too wide, the left sleeve is too long (although the right sleeve is okay - weird), and the lapels are too slim for this particular model's face. The tie is also too short, but hey, this wasn't a video on how a tie should fit.
Edit: I do appreciate the effort put into this video, and it's great that AoM is helping to move men away from the horribly baggy clothes that a lot of (especially younger) guys wear. I just wish that a little more research had gone into this. An experienced tailor would also have been a huge asset to the video, both to alter the suit for the model and to better explain how it should really fit.
Thank you! That's just what I was thinking.
Thank you! It's like they didn't even bother with a good tailor.
It's a little tight but that's due to the slim cut.
Julian Escobedo A slim cut and an ill-fitting suit should not be confused. A suit should not be tight, nor should it be loose, regardless of the style.
Correct. Also its Sometimes, Always Never not Always Sometimes Never like the video said. And I disagree with the statement, 'you are supposed to be able to throw a football in a suit.' When wearing the best fitting suits, you are completely functional (i.e. Beckham playing soccer in a suit.)(Although it may be different kicking than throwing.).
These new slim suits (and the accessories associated) make me cringe. The tight fitting, low rise pants with the clownish-looking chisel tie shoes- the lapels so thin you could fit a billboard on the man's chest- the X that should never, ever be present around the used button- the armholes so low that you can't lift your arm above your chest comfortably- the ugly, pastel shirts- the very thick ties tied in Windsor knots the size of a fist... I could go on, but it hurts.
I love slim-fit suits from the early 60's, but I agree that this is too much. That's just trends, I suppose.
Some people need slim suits. One can argue against the style some of them are made in ... but arguing against "slim" itself is simply uninformed.
the argument this man proposes is not wholly for slim but for the best measure. A baggy suit doesn't look as sharp and any man wearing a suit has to deserve his suit by caring firstly for his body.
I am 6'1" and 160 pounds, just about as slim as it gets, and I prefer to wear true English drape-cut suits. The silhouette is much more flattering, with the straight-cut trouser legs, the waist suppression, higher trouser rise, high armholes, higher button stance, and wider lapels. The true drape-cut is by no means baggy or sack-like; it is still a well-fitted cut when properly done. It is on its way back, too. Suits can only get so skinny.
KE7SFR Slim? the suit on the right at 1:45 (And a lot more obviously) fits quite well in my opinion.
Speaking as a costumer that has worked with professional tailors, I'm having arguments with the fit of that suit. It's good for off the rack or semi tailored but the number of deformities in the lines are going to cause uneven wear on the fiber and generate some ugly strain lines. The back sits beautifully but those creases on the front torso parallel to the lapels suggest there isn't enough ease for the rib cage to expand and the button is going to be put under unnecessary strain; if It were a dress I'd have said the waist was cut too high. The pants could have used a slightly deeper crotch to get rid of the strain lines over the pelvis and across the tops of the thighs, though not so drastic an addition as to create the gaping Mr Melwani (quite rightly) warns about. Also, a bit more ease over the hips to eliminate the strain on the pockets which should not be standing out from the side seams.
A garment, even a close fitting one, should be able to slide freely over the body and, at rest, return to the desired silhouette without discomfort to the wearer or unnecessary strain on the fabric.
Actually, with any 3 button suit, it goes:
Sometimes
Always
Never
Not with the first two switched around. This is because the 2.5 button suit is technically a 3 button suit, but you don't do that button up as it looks wrong, and its just there for show. Regardless of the cut however, you always do up the centre button.
+James Mansbridge not always.. for ex: when you sit
+rtj182 well, that applies for all suits, with very few exceptions. In this case it is very obvious, and I didn't think I needed to include it.
Hey baby
Ajay Halpati call me sometime, OK babe? I don't think I can live without you.
Give me your mobile number
Eric fuels my nightmares
lmao that model took starring awkwardly forward to a whole new level.
Step one: Be thin.
Pretty much for everything :(
correction: be TALL and thin. I am 1,67mts and almost always look ridiculous in a suit because of my shortness. The only thing close to a suit I can dress is a blazer. And I'm not going to talk about Overcoats!
chabap I'm 1,64mts mate...I know how you feel, but I can tell you that the only thing that can improve your image wearing suits or any kind of clothing (besides them fitting PERFECTLY) is your own confidence, wear a smile on your face when walking down the street and people will look at you and say "Look at that handsome young man!". Walk with determination so people know when you're entering a room. Look people in the eyes when talking to them, which will be in a respectful manner. Your attitude also dresses you, don't forget that! :) Hope this helps! I've had a hard time with my height, for many years I was sad because of it, until one day I realised it wasn't a problem I had, it is a society's problem which made an image for us, be happy with who you are.
-Mike
Miguel Fierro thanks for the kind words,my friend!
chabap Of course mate! CZcams is a community after all! And if I can help you with anything else, let me know! Cheers!
The fact that the CEO of this company is telling everyone this is a great fitting suit makes me NOT want to buy one from him. This is NOT a great fitting suit. The shoulder divots are present and the waist is too snug. This guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
Slimfit is a look that is sleek, and even when suits were bigger, the slim look in a bigger suit made it more appealing. Like for example, the downward spiral of a "V" on your waist up to till the chest is a necessity for a suit. It's only natural to want to show off the perfections on your body when wearing a suit, as that is what a SUIT IS MADE FOR. For many, Slimfit is the best option to show off all of their assets. Dont buy a suit that is too big, even a suit that is slightly too small is better than one that drapes over you. Which is 99% of the mistakes guys make/made in the past, not getting the right fit. Tailored or not, when a suit fits, it will make you look better.
Yes my thoughts also went to the shoulders, i was surprised that he is not being upfront about the shoulder seam fitting which is the foundation of a good fit. I noticed the shoulder being off only when the model turns sideways and then turns around and the shadows from the lighting reveal the faulty fit.
And when did wearing brown shoes become okay with a blue suit like I see today? imo The suits are too tight ( might split the ass out of the pants) and the buttons all seem to be straining at the front on the jackets. The shoulders are too tight as well. This does not look good at all. I guess that I'm getting old too. lol
HueTubeR hahaha jup
I agree!! And its "Sometimes, always, never"!!
Why all the negative comments below? That suit was the perfect fit. The explanations were sartorially correct. Anyone who has been fitted with a bespoke suit knows this. Great presentation.
Eric dude.....chill
Does this guy ever blink?
Eric isn't fucking around.
One of the best videos I ever watched on youtube....perfecttt
Absolutely agree- great fundamental understanding!!!
Is he a fucking robot?
+Randy boi he should be used as a punching bag
Great video and good work on it. Very sleek and modern. Love to visit you guys.
Outstanding. Thank you!
'Always, Sometimes, Never' starts at the middle button on a 3 button suit NOT the top. You always do the middle button up and sometimes the top with it. If I saw someone walking around with just the top button done up I would slap them.
Thank you, the only reason why I read these comments is to see if someone else caught that. He need to go back and edit that before he have people walking around looking like idiots. There are some other things that rubbed me the wrong way in this video too but that was the worst of them all.
Thank you, that was really useful.
This man gives us good information thank you so much
Thank you very much, this was helpful !!! Really appreciate it
went to buy a suit today, this video is actually really good guide!
"The shoulders are exactly where they need to be." - Are you serious?
Yeah those wrinkles say sum else
You guys do know that's still that baggy jacket right? He has pins in it when he shows the fitted version
extremely well done thanks much for the help
Nice job! Thanks
“You can look sharp for your interview..”
*brings knife*
Thanks, Disembodied voice in my head!!!
great video, thanks!
That music is killer, and the artwork along with everything else...classy
Wait, the shoulder isn't right, right?
yes
I think you're left
Lol yeah
HAGEMANDEN Jr
seems like I have a gift from heaven then
love their knitted ties!
Excellent video👌
great video thanks
For those of you that can't see why the shoulder doesn't fit, 4:44 is obvious for anyone. That is not what you want in a jacket.
Also, I don't think that crease when the jacket is closed around the button is right fit at 3:27. Looks like it is too tight.
I saw that gap at the beginning and I was like that’s not it should fit
Terrible fit on the shoulders, all lumpy and wavy.. Bad tailors.
Yeah, I thought he was going to say that it was the bad fit example
I believe tailors add this pads to the shoulders, probably not factored in cause it is not his own suit. Just assuming though.
@@mendoza725 yes but i depends on shoulder type down or straights or also according to suit style like american english or italian
They really should have picked a better suit/model combo. Agreed the shoulders are bad and the sleeve length doesn’t fit the exact rule he just said.
Shoulders are too wide
Great advice!
Funny how they present a supposedly great fitting suit, but you can see that shoulders are a little too wide, sleeves a little too long and big dreaded x in the center.
Agreed on the shoulders, but not the rest.
i thinks it's more the sleeves on the shirt are to short and the x isn't quite an x it's a v at the moment but definitely to tight also the angle of the arm holes are all wrong for the model causing the suit to catch rather than drape which you can see on his upper arm.
I am glad you cuaght that. I thought I was the only one seeing it.
Necrodox well you don't know much about suits chief
czcams.com/video/y6oXW_YiV6g/video.html scatman has a nice suit.
I wish the locals in my area could be this thorough you know.
This CEO is DJ Khaled's long lost brother
Great company.
Eric is staring in too my soul. I think he is out to get me for sure.
Thanks you helped me alot.😊
Very informative.
Eric trying to hold his best “Blue Steel” for as long as possible
Me and that model, Eric, were having a starring contest through the screen. He won. 👀
full marks for the dude in the suit for standing still for the entire time.
See how this fits? That means it fits. Brilliant detail
POKERFACE LVL 99999999
Hahaha.
Look good , feel great !
I thought the rule for suit buttons was
- Sometimes
- Always
- Never
It is
I prefer always (one button). That’s the ultimate in simplicity.
Great intro. I loved how the funny parts flowed seamlessly with the information. Well-done.
The one break in the pants is a decent approximation, but all proportions in suits should be tailored to balance the individual's body type. A thin man should use tricks to appear slightly broader, a short man should avail himself of tricks to appear taller, and vice versa. As for the break in pants, a short man should have slightly less break in the pants - possibly no break - verging on one break, and a tall man should have at least one generous break. It's about emphasizing the vertical line on a short man, and pants that hang without much break will do that by allowing the line on the front to fall straight. For a tall man, it's about disrupting the vertical line in order to de-emphasize it, so another thing to consider is pants cuffs. This ethic can be used throughout the suit, including the coat. For a tall man, anything that disrupts the vertical: an extra ticket pocket, flaps on the front pockets, double breasted, slightly wider or more pointed lapels to draw the eye outward to the shoulders instead of straight up and down. For a shorter man, pin stripes, plus the opposite of all above.
Of course if you're going for a very basic, slim black suit for example, you won't have opportunity to employ all of these tricks, but you can keep an eye out for chances to use them subtly, and certainly if you want a suit that's a less basic style, if you're open to different types of collars or patterns.
What color suit is the model wearing in the video? Navy?
Hi. I have a question. I have a hard time taking measurements to my clients with big belly and want a slim fit or macho-look. They wanted something like a curve/sexy shape so I usually get the circumference of the high waist for the curve part and take the circumference at the center or on the umbilical level. Am I doing the right way? How much allowance should I add, if the clients high waist is 38 and the belly is 42? hoping for you reply. thank you.
Beginners advices!
I gotta say, this was verry good. high five.
what is the fabric used in this video....
I miss these posts
AWESOME
i have a question, when you raise your arm, should the jacket chest bulge up and the shoulder raise? I have been told its normal and i have been told its an armhole issue? thank you for your pointers
this video is really helpful.thank you so much.gonna buy a suit for prom night
Love it
3:08 "You don't wanna be able to throw a football", he clearly has never watched The Room.
So helpful! Must share with all my guy friends hahah
This looks like a Fallout 4 Create your Character scene with a guy interrupting to talk about suits. Great video guys, every man needs to know this.
Suits do change lives.
I love a well dressed gentleman!
+misstantrix then you will love me
do you have a sock fetish
Like you wouldn't believe. I just bought 200 pairs.
+Sebastian Ammamoo-Amber what you talking about
+Sebastian Ammamoo-Amber what you talking about
I recently purchased my first suit and it is being tailored by the retailer, but when the tailor asked me the just sleeve style I wanted he showed me 3 lengths: casual, semi-casual, and dress. I chose the dress but I'm wondering if that is showing too much cuff.
Eric almost never blinks ;)
I love the background music. What's the official name for the genre it's in?
@Art of manliness what should i actual say to the tailor can i just give them the suit and say tailor it or do i have to tell them all the alterations you've said here
The jacket shouldn't be pulling at the button the way it is.
where is this located?
sleeve length is so important that we won't let you see the shirt sleeve till I pull the jacket sleeve up......I also made a video of my daughter using sidewalk chalk on our driveway and used the same free music.
I usually dress up, but with extra pound is difficult to find something to ftt. do you have a series for extra big person(not tall)
You're genius about suit.
cool presentation, and a great business name. can you do a grey suit option for bald/shaved/receding hairline guys that are slim(ish) with a bit of a beer belly going on. :)
Thank you! The pants bit, that's the length I always ask for and they give me a look like wtf you don't know anything about suits... 😰
You should have had the model sit down, though, to see how much should the leg rise.
Eric was trying not to laugh when it came into the pants 😆
I'm having a staring competition with Eric.
New with Combatant Gentlemen. Filmed and edited by Jordan Crowder
the guy he uses as an example must have a 100% win rate in staring contests
Great fit instructions for the suit.
Next suit I'm getting is going to be from CombatGent. For sure.
is the model demonstrating how a suite is not supposed to fit? Because it contradicts some of the points he was making about what makes a great suit. Also, why wouldn't the owner of the store actually wear a nice fitting suit instead of a smorgasbord of pieces that doesn't go together well at all. Blue jacket with brown pants and black shirt?
he's the boss, he can do whatever he wants to
Suvvri what a dumb comment. So if your boss tells you green is yellow you're just going to accept it?
Charles Le
this guy there did not tell me anything.
he did not tell anyone that he's dressing good, cool or however you call it. He just does what he likes because he can and no one can tell him not to.
besides on your comment- yes im gonna accept it as long as i work in his company. I dont care as long as im getting paid for what he tells me and its my job.
Im not taking my job into my private life so i dont have any problems with doing something that my boss tells me to do even if i think i could do it other way or better. Its just my thinking tho.
Suvvri my point is that he's making a video about how a suit should fit yet he's suit doesn't fit. That's not a good idea
You mean more like the colors don't match the others... Look at the boss, for a guy that big he is rocking that suit. His physique is way bigger then the model but his suit still fits hm well.
The colors just may not match, but that's subjective.
worth watching..
Made in Shandong cause thats so comforting
That jacket is actually a little tight on the model. It shouldn't have the stress marks around the top button when buttoned.
The rule for buttoning a suit goes: sometimes, always, never if you do as the video says you'll just look like a clown
exactly!
The model never blinked :)
Hey guys, So I have a suit that fits perfectly everywhere but one place; the sleeves. I'm not sure how to explain it but basically the "armpit" is too low, which means when I raise my arms all the shoulder comes up. Instead of where the sleeve meets the body of the suit going straight up into my armpit, it sits about an inch below and I haven't seen any videos or articles about it. Any advice?
get bigger arms
Dylan O Brien you're talking about the armscye (armhole). it's not so much that its low, its that the armhole is big, which is the problem with most off-the-rack or made-to-measure suits. it leads to a tugging on the actual jacket piece, and eventually restricts movement pass 90 degrees. i'm not sure if it can be fixed, you can talk to your tailor about it. unfortunately i only know a few places that specialize in higher armscyes which gives you that range of motion, as you can see in james bonds movies, and those tailors are in savile row.
Good Stuff, do you have something in India?
Hopefully getting a job a Hugo boss but only problem is I don’t have any clothes to impress customers. Even if I don’t get the job I’d still love to start wearing suites and looking like a boss
Do they ship to Europe?