Brilliant Black: Speed Painting Death Korps of Krieg (again)
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 15. 11. 2021
- Painting black doesn't need to be hard. Let's speed-run some Krieg.
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Music: "Valentine" by Wintergatan
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#warhammer40k #paintingminiatures #tutorial #tabletopgaming #tabletopgames #wargaming #deathkorpsofkrieg
These are great, straight out of the artwork. The visual interest and texture a good oil or enamel wash can provide is insane. Looking close up you see how many little blots and scratches and drip marks are created by the cleaning stage.
Nice a painting tutorial!
"Alright grab your airbrush"
Everytime lol
THIS. Wish the thumbnail just said the guide uses an airbrush so I can skip
Hi guys! Although an airbrush is a fantastic way to increase your efficiency with painting and you can pick up everything you need for the price of a couple of âcentre pieceâ gw kits, thereâs absolutely nothing in this video that canât be achieved with a regular brush đ
I don't get who's supposed to be the target audience for these tutorials. Somebody who's into the hobby and invested into an airbrush already knows how to airbrush a zenithal, basecoat and accent important areas.
I know I shouldn't complain about free tutorials, but it's just so tiresome..
@@GRGMiniatures oh yeah, I wasn't trying to be a jerk out anything just thought it was funny
@@napukapu By that logic, anyone into the hobby with a brush should know how to use colour theory, blend nicely, add texture and contrast, and modulate colours in the shadows with glazes.
The airbrush is a tool. A really handy one, that only costs about ÂŁ80 to get everything you need, but just having it doesn't make you a better painter. Everything he shows with the airbrush in this video can be done with paintbrushes and/or drybrushes.
Wintergatan is the best!!! I had to rewind partway through, because I realized I was just listening to the song, and wasnât paying attention to your words. đ€Ł
Yes! Graet music, lovely guy, and very generous with his Pay What You Want license :)
This was great information, specific, technical, but easy to follow, to the point. I'll subscribe and recommend, this was really a great video from you and a great find by my algorithm.
Ennio, thanks so much for the kind words! Iâll have a new video soon!
Damn good work, there!!! Way to go!
Thank you!
Very nice!!!đđđ
Looks great. The Burnt Umber works great.
Outstanding job! Will definetly try copy-paste
Thanks, Tomas!
Great run through.
I just watched a couple of your videos, all great. +1 sub, good luck growing the channel.
Thanks so much for the sub!
:D very epic ty
These are great, I'm sitting on a bunch of Krieg I should get to one day. I am wondering which steel colour you used? Looks great!
The steel here is blend of Vallejo Metal Color Gun Metal and black ink. I mix up a batch and label it Black Metal đ€đ»đ€Ł
Great tutorial, very forgeworld looking paint job! Did you split up the Gorgon transport passanger set for these?
Thank you! These are just the âat easeâ DKoK troops :)
What paints did you use for the Gasmasks/Boot wrappings?
Thank you for taking about me
Youâre welcome, guardsmen. Now back to the front line - these trenches arenât going to dig themselves!
These look fantastic, what brand of oil wash did you use?
Thanks! It's just artists oil paints and white spirit :)
I just discovered your channel yesterday - Love it! Two questions about oils: can you use regular acrylic varnish (vallejo matt for instance) on oils? Any tricks on making oils durable? The few times I've tried oils, it's so soft that even a fingernail or grabbing several models at the same time, is enough to put dents in the paint.
So glad you're enjoying the channel! You absolutely can use acrylics over oils -- varnishes or regular paints. You just have to leave them to dry long enough. The thicker you use the oil paint (=less white spirits), the longer it will take to dry. Neat oil paints laid on thick can take a week(!) to fully cure, but luckily for us we should never really be using very thick neat oils. Once they're completely cured, they should be very durable, so I wonder if the problem you've had before has just been not waiting for them to completely cure. The long drying time of oils is a blessing and curse...
@@GRGMiniatures Thank you for the quick reply. I had problems mainly with thin layers of Abteilung 504 Engine Grease wash thinned quite a bit with spirits. Perhaps it's that particular paint then, or too much spirits(?). This was last summer and it's still soft. Do thinned oils dry softer? It kinds put me off oils since I loved the medium and the color, but it had no durability.
With oils, thinning should make them dry faster! Iâm not really familiar with abtielung though. What thinner did you use?
@@GRGMiniatures A basic odorless thinner, $10 at the hardware store. I'll give it another go with regular oils and see if it's just that specific paint. I appriciate you taking the time!
Very nice, what did you do for the bases?
Thanks! The scenic bits are various plasticard, plastic rod, and metal mesh. The mud effect is Vallejo muddy ground laid on thick, and when thatâs dry I daubed on Vallejo wet mud and dry mud - thatâs it :)
What paint and flour u used ? Can you write down here
Awesome tutorial. Where did you get the barbed wire you used for the bases?
Thank you! I bought generic metal wire mesh online. That way I can cut squares for fencing, or tease out a single wire and wrap it for a barbed wire effect. A lot more cost effective than specialist hobby stuff!
@@GRGMiniatures Thank you!
What is the ratio of oil paint to spirits you use?
These look great, by the way.
Thanks so much! The best advice I can give is start mixing, and get a sense for dilutions, because different projects are going to demand different consistencies. But! I know thatâs not useful to start, so probably something between 1:1 and 1:2 paint to spirit to start you off Iâd say.
@@GRGMiniatures thanks for the advice. I have played around with oils a bit. This is helpful.
Awesome! Do you think I can get away with copious amounts of sponging as opposed to airbrushing? I don't have an airbrush đ
Absolutely! Will be a different texture but still look great
What brand of oils do you enjoy working with?
I only use Windsor and Newton Winton - but thatâs mostly because thatâs what I have and oils come in BIG tubes for mini painting.
If youâre only considering oil washes, lining, these sort of âlimitedâ uses, winton are (in the UK anyway) cheap, good quality, and very easy to come by.
wat color did you use for the masks and boots :O
The masks are Vallejo Heavy Khaki, the boots are Vallejo Beastly brown (but beastly brown is great to be honest, so maybe look for another warm yellow-brown)
@@GRGMiniatures are all your paints you used for this vid vallejo?
@@muruaisaka6409 the main batch of paints I have are Vallejo, so usually, yes. Vallejo are pretty cheap and reliable paints, and come in a decent dropper bottle. But no one brand has an absolutely perfect range, so I wouldnât say âgo out and buy all Vallejoâ!
@@GRGMiniatures ahh ok i just really like the mask color, ty for replying so much :D
donde consigo esas miniaturas?
These are from Forgeworld -> www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Warhammer-40-000?N=913715131+1362237159&Nr=AND%28sku.siteId%3AGB_fw%2Cproduct.locale%3Aen_GB_fw%29&Nrs=collection%28%29%2Frecord%5Bproduct.startDate+%3C%3D+1674819000000+and+product.endDate+%3E%3D+1674819000000%5D
"Grab your airbrush"
and you lost me...
Stay tuned for a vid coming up about how to 'air brush without an air brush' :)
Valentine!
_(collects ball bearings from the floor dejectedly)_
I'm not going to lie at the end under the light they look just like the 143rd regiment not the 5th regiment
You should invest into make up sponges vs Q tips. Helps a lot.
Seconded
Thanks! I use make-up sponges on bigger models/terrain pieces, but prefer the accuracy of a cotton bud for infantry. That said, the sharper details on something like a DKoK model (or CSM, eugh, those spike!) does catch the cotton, so blasting them with a sponge would certainly go faster!
@@GRGMiniatures I have tiny triangle sponges on a stick, it's not much bigger than qtip. Search for "eye shadow sponge".
Drybrush, and details. You don't go for Golden Demon level painting in armies like this, sorry.
Got to say I did not agree with anything in this video. That is not to say don't do the things you talk about but bare in mind the following. You are like Pete the Wargamer in as much as he paints all the black items as grey because he thinks it gives them a better appearance of black. The problem is, as is the case with your figures, their uniform does not look black they look grey and any person that saw they without knowing your intention would think of them in this manner.
The second issue is oil paints. No, do not tell people to rethink oil paints if they don't like them. Your comment that the paint goes on in a flash is no different to washes like Agrax Earth shade. Except you don't need a 24 hour drying time. You don't need to wipe it off with a cue tip and mineral spirits. Oils are a dam sight more expensive than GW paints, and that is saying something. You need to be mindful of the inflammatory nature of the spirits where the fumes could ignite, secure storage is essential and spillage actually turns anything that absorbed the liquid into a fire hazard. How come nobody talks about the safety issues?
Hi Carl,
I won't tackle the issue of black/grey as this is a perception question and not easy to handle in only words.
With regards to oils, I feel that there are some factual inaccuracies that are worth noting: Oil washes are completely different in use and result to acrylic washes, offering more control and scope, with very, very different behaviour on the model. It is not worthwhile considering the two mediums as being in the same category -- the only thing they have in common is 'wash' in their name.
Oil washes don't need 24hrs drying time to be able to handle them, but they do need longer than acrylic paints. This is a benefit of oils, not a drawback, as it allows for adjustment and blending techniques that are as good as impossible with acrylic.
Oils are not more expensive than GW washes. An 18ml bottle of Agrax Earthshade costs ÂŁ4.75 in the UK. 200ml of oil paint, which will be heavily, heavily diluted, costs between ÂŁ5 and ÂŁ15 depending on the pigment. The thinner can be bought for a few pounds at a hardware store and can be recycled easily at home. There are more expensive oil paints, but for basic washes, a 'student' grade paint is absolutely fine.
With regards to safety, with minimal common sense, there is absolutely nothing to fear with oil paints. Unless you are painting in a small enclosed space around open flames, the chances of fume ignition are as good as zero, and likewise with storage. Certain techniques will inevitably involve using products that need a degree of care in their handling (e.g. isopropyl for stripping minis/setting basing material), but this shouldn't be a barrier to exploring all the excellent techniques developed by phenomenal painters over many years. Or in the case of oil paints, stepping outside the hobby world, for many centuries.
Happy hobbying!
@@GRGMiniatures Thanks for taking the time to reply with such a detailed response. I take your point on a number of things, black v grey etc... And yes, things like the storage of the thinners is a common sense issue except for me where my work space is in my kitchen because that is what I have. Unfortunately my stove is gas so you know, cautious.
With regard to pricing I would note thinners is a requirement for working with oils, so when you list the price of the oil paint you should also list the price of the thinners. Also, and this part is not something you can be blamed for not knowing, but I live in Australia and the prices for GW paints and oils and thinners is significantly inflated here. Not just on the exchange rate but due to excise etc...
As regards to the performance standards of oil paints, my last direct personal experience with them was way back in the 70's as a school kid. But watching other youtubers doing similar things the consensus is, you paint on the oils, wipe it off with another agent and then leave it over night with a possible spray of varnish to stop reactivation. Oils are not a fast medium as you stated. Especially compared to washes, and while I grant you GW paints are expensive, Army Painter shades are not or you can use home made product such as described by Midwinter Minis.
Ultimately however, I was miffed by your "strong recommendation to get over your reservations", the tone suggested you believed we were being truculent rather than having valid reasons for our resistance to oils. Personal opinion is not a fault in another individual just because it does not align with yours. From my point of view oils and thinners are not convenient, not quick and not in my opinion superior. This is personal taste of course and I do not recommend you cease using them because of this, I just suggest you don't dismiss other people's concerns about them.
By the way I also paint 10mm & 15mm figures. Just an idle curiosity on my part, for your followers information do you believe oils would be OK in these scales also? Or do you think there is a minimum size that the impact of oils are good for without obliterating the detail of the figures?
Meh