1968 Ford Shelby Mustang GT-500 by AMT - Episode 40
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2023
- Today on the WorkBench, I am building the 1990 edition of this 1968 Ford Shelby Mustang GT-500 by AMT. Some of you may remember seeing this kit a while back. It was part of the Flea Market Haul video that I did last summer. It has taken me a while to get back to it but here it is.
Now, this kit has been re-issued a number of times over the years. The most recent kit was released in 2019 and is kit number AMT634M it has the Green car on the box. It is currently available from autoworldstore.com.
I have the newer released kit as well and will be doing a comparison of the new versus old in the near future. So, for now, sit back, relax and enjoy the video.
I hope that you enjoyed watching this video as much as I did building the kit.
Any Comments or questions? Please leave them in the box below.
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Thanks For Watching! and I’ll see you on the next build!
Kevin
Equipment used to make this video possible;
Main camera: GoPro Hero 7 Black
Secondary camera: Samsung S7 Android phone
Video Editing Software used:
Corel VideoStudio Pro 2020 64 bit.
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*NOTE*
To the one person that goes out of their way to give my videos a thumbs down, firstly, I want to say that this is my channel. I will post what I want to post here as long as it is within CZcams guidelines. Whether that be a car, truck, aircraft or train. If I like it, I will post it. If you don't like what I post, why not Unsubscribe from my channel and find somewhere else to hide in. Thank You! - Zábava
That turned out great! Sometimes when I have a one piece glass, I cut it because it’s warped and won’t sit right. Looks like yours laid down without any issues.
Thanks! For the most part I haven't had that many one piece windows give me much, or any problems. It seems lately that I have been building kits that have multi-piece windows. I don't know which I prefer really. The individual windows go in so much nicer but it takes longer to put them in... As long as they look good after installation is all tha matters, I guess.
Nive build, looks good in that teal color 😊
Thank You! It was going to Aqua but I decided that it would look better in the color that I applied to it. Thanks for watching!
It's a 1998 issue amt kit I just finished that same kit for me channel. It's beautiful car when It's done . I no problem with building It .good luck can't wait to see done .
Thank You. The information on the side of my box tells me that it's a 1990 edition as I stated in the video. I see that you have the Shelby GT-350 on your channel. That may have been a 1998 edition. The box art is very similar, so I can see where the confusion comes from. It's the same car with different "window dressings".
Like the tip on fixing body imperfections! I have tried various fillers and I found the 3M glazing putty works pretty good, I think its a similar product to what you use!
I have had that tube of Evercoat since before I retired from the Navy. While I was in I worked in a Rigid Hull Inflatable Boat repair shop. That's how I learned about the many uses for that glazing putty. I liked it so much that I bought my own tube from a shop that sold Auto body shop supplies. BTW I retired from the Navy in July, 2002. So, that tube has been around for over 20 years. I'm sure that the 3m putty is just as good as the Evercoat. I like 3m products also. I really liked the adhesive remover. That stuff would clean anything off of a surface prior to painting. Thanks for watching!
Man iv now changed my mind concerning this kit....iv avoided it knowing it was one of the older promo type kits but I think I'm gonna try kit bashing it with amt's 67 gt kit and have this one real nice car after so thanks for the inspiration because this one's still around at my local hobby lobby's and I'ma grab it now
I am glad that this build was an inspiration for you. I hope that your build turns out great! Thanks for watching.
Great build, have one I did over 10 years ago stripping off the paint for a do over with photo etch details. Thanks
This is an older issue of that kit. It has recently been reissued within the last year or so. The reissue has a green painted car on the box. I have one but haven't opened it yet. Good luck with the rebuild of your Mustang. Sounds like it will turn out really nice.
That's right a lot of reissues over the years, just decided to redo the one I had but bought a spare parts engine pkg from eBay.
Looks great, i love the color choice
Thank you!
Great video, your GT 500 turned out really nice.
Thanks! I have a few more Mustangs coming to the channel sometime in the future. They are on the shelf above the Bench almost begging to be built...
@@scaleautoguysworkbench 👍
Looks cool.
Thank You.
I've built the more recent version of this car. Unfortunately, the interior bucket was warped and didn't fit correct. I had the same problem with my hood, tried the same thing, ground the carbs down and it still will not close all the way. Very nice build!!
Thank You! I have the newer edition of this kit and I haven't opened it to look inside yet. I figured that it was more than likely an identical kit. Knowing what I know about the kits that are coming from the other side of the Pacific Ocean, I would expect that it would be warped as yours turned out to be. Lately, I have been encountering that same problem on multiple kits from that region of the world. (Take my Coca-Cola 32 Sedan Delivery as an example.) Every manufacturer has had these issues from time to time but AMT seems to be one of the worst when talking about warp. Or, maybe it just seems that way because they dominate the market and thus we encounter it more often...
As far as the carb grinding goes, I was left with about carbs that were about 1/16th of inch thick before the hood would close. Just barely enough to hold onto the air cleaner. Somehow, I made it work and if you didn't know that I had to do that you can't tell it.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful work!!! This is the kit I've tried a few times and can never make a decent car out of it. Love that you had success!!!!
Thank You!! Sometimes these kits take a lot of patience. Other times they practically build themselves. This one fell somewhere in between. It had some small issues, but nothing insurmountable. The biggest disappointment was not catching the hood warp before painting it. I was thinking it was sitting in the hole weird because there wasn't any support to hold it in place other than the tape I applied for painting.
Thanks for watching!
fasha or fassia . back in the day we called it a splash panel !~
I guess it all depends on what time you live in or, even what part of the world that you live in. It's like if you live in the mid-west it's called pop in the south it's called soda and in some parts of the country everything is a Coke, regardless of what brand you're actually drinking.
Nice job on the build, I like the color choices, inside and out.
You might try putting hood in hot water for a bit of time, then twist it a little, to get warpage out.
Would have been better before painting, but even if you need to repaint the hood, it will make you happy that the hood sits like it should.
Thank You. I would have tried to get the warp out prior to painting had I realized that it was there. I just chalked up the ill fitting hood as it had no support without the firewall and chassis. Didn't really see it until I was putting it all together.
A great paint clinic! Love the interior work!
Thank You! I have to admit, interiors are my arch nemesis. I sometimes have trouble doing them.
Right now, on another channel, a modeler has just found that the primer under the paint he sprayed on his '59 Ford model is the cause of fish eye/crazing that only became evident when the paint fully dried. Trying to find out why, he painted one side of a plastic spoon with the final color paint he used, then painted the other side of the spoon with primer and then the final color over it. When the paint on the spoon dried, the side without primer was perfect. The side with primer and paint fish eyed/crazed just like what happened on his model. It isn't clear what the root cause is, but clearly something happened in reaction between the paint and primer. It wasn't oil or dirt, he was doing a 2-tone paint scheme, the white paint did not fish eye/craze, and the white is applied over the same primer as the primary color.
I get your point about seeing imperfections after the primer, but have you tried that with just a thin first layer of paint, without primer, to look for imperfections?
I'm an old guy who did models decades ago, but have become interested in the hobby again and am watching it on youtube. I never used primer even once in all those years way back when. I still have all the models I built, and can find no paint issues on them to this day. Some I brushed on, some were rattle-can, but they look the same today as they did back then.
If I start building again, I still may not use primer.
As I usually paint my car bodies with acrylic craft paints I wouldn't attempt to spray those onto bare plastic. As I mentioned in the video, the paint needs a barrier to grab onto, the primer is that barrier. Acrylic craft paints don't have the necessary chemical makeup to allow it to etch into the plastic and therefore would easily come off. Either by handling or accidentally hitting it just right with a fingernail. I like using craft paints because of the availability of colors, locations that offer it for sale, the ability to custom mix a color and for the ease of cleanup. I don't have to stock cans of flammable chemicals ( mineral spirits, lacquer thinner etc. ) in my home for thinning and cleanup. Now, in the past, and I think that I mentioned this in the video, you can spray enamel paints (i.e. Testors or Tamiya) straight from the can onto the car bodies and they will work fine. They were designed for that purpose. Like you, I have been shooting those types of paint straight from the can for years with zero issues other than the occasional run. I still have several of those kits around and the paint is still great. Since being gifted the airbrush five or so years ago, I have found the craft paints easier to work with especially through the airbrush.
As far as the other channels problems... I can't really speculate much on what happened to them, other than incompatibility between the paint and primer, which does happen from time to time. We have all had that problem every so often. I'm a victim of that myself. I've even had the exact same paint and primer on multiple vehicles and one out of four had a reaction. Not once, not twice, but three times on the same car. I finally got the paint to go down and stay down the final time. I chalk it up to humidity that was the culprit. Same paint, same primer, four different builds and one of them had to be painted, stripped, and repainted three times. Who really knows what happened?
Thank you for watching and for the wonderful conversation!
A good quality primer is essential. and if possible try to use the same brand primer as paint. If thats not possible Tamiya fine surface primer either from rattle can or airbrush, Mr Hobby Mr surfacer 1000 thru an airbrush or rattle can, or Duplicolor sandable primer. I always wash my parts, and where possible like the body I also scuff it with 1500 grit paper and wash it again before priming. Also light coats are better than trying to put it on heavy. Allow proper drying time as well. Just take your time and dont rush the process and you will get a good result!
Awesome build! I recently built the same kit. I didn't love it but it didn't turn out bad. Awesome video and thanks for sharing! 😎
Thank You! This one was a little tricky at the end because of the hood situation. I hear rumors that the latest re-pop of this kit has some issues. I own that one as well but haven't opened it up yet. Thanks for watching!
I'm hoping that for my next project I can get my hands on one of these or a superbee I put together an old charger a year ago
There has been a re-pop of this kit. The new one has a green car on the box. The kit with the red car on the box is still available on Ebay starting at around $20.00. I believe the the Superbee is also available there as well. I have no idea what the price for that is.
The colour combos turned out great...how are you preventing acrylic brush marks? darn stuff also dries fast...did you air brush some off camera?
Thanks for a great video.
Thank you! There are some brush marks there, they are really fine and the camera doesn't pick up on them up very well, but, if you apply acrylic paints over a primed surface it does help to lessen the brush marks by giving the acrylic paint something to hold onto. I also use fine horsehair paint brushes that also helps eliminate the marks. Applying a few light coats of paint is better than trying to get one coat coverage. I have found that sometimes I have to do two or three coats on certain colors to get good enough coverage. All of the interior was brush painted. The only thing that was airbrushed was the actual body. Thanks for watching!
That turned out very nicely. Good job. Do you always use the Pledge for clear coat?
Thank you. No, I mix it up a bit. Sometimes, I use Mod Podge clear sealer or Tamiya clear.
I have noticed that you paint and clear your car bodies with the hood in place. How do you keep the hood from becoming stuck to the body ? Thanks
Thanks for the great question!
I do paint and clear with the hood in place so that I'm sure to get an even coat across the entire body. For the most part the hoods don't always stick shut but once in a blue moon they do. In the last 40 or so kits on this channel, I think I may have had one hood partially stick closed but luckily came loose without any damage to the surrounding paint. Other than that, I don't really do anything special before painting other than the occasion where I have to tape the hood in place.
The trick might be that I don't usually paint with sticky enamels. When I airbrush my car bodies 99% of the time I use acrylic craft paint that usually dries to the touch fairly quickly. I only use enough paint to get it to the color that I think looks correct and no more. As far as the with the clear coats, I have used a few different concoctions like Future floor polish, Mod Podge Clear sealer, and Patricia Nimocks clear sealer. Again, I only apply enough coats to get the job done. I haven't had much issue with those products other than the occasional run.
I generally don't use rattle can paint unless I have to and when I do, I use Krylon paints. They spray at a more controlled rate than Rustoleum 2X and I haven't used Testors brand aerosol cans since around 2002.
So, I cannot explain the exact why this doesn't happen on my builds. I can tell you that after the paint is dry and I can handle the bodies and after looking at the hoods when I remove them from the car, I have noticed that there usually isn't much or sometimes any paint on the very edge of the hood. As I mentioned, I use an airbrush and that might be a factor as well. Thanks for watching and for the great question!
I have this model kit it doesn't seem to be correct it is missing the brace in the engine bay like other Mustangs.Its seems to me to be geared for the drag car version more than stock version. The firewall and the chassis have more details for the drag version.Maybe it's me it lacks dept.Anyway awesome work.Cheers.
Thank You! This particular kit has likely been re-popped a few times and in a few different versions over the years. It is quite possible that it is setup for a different version. I didn't notice that the brace was missing until I read your comment. I guess that I must have over looked it somehow. I'm sure that something as basic as that would be easy to recreate with a piece of styrene. At least good enough to pass for the correct part. Thanks for watching!
Did you airbrush acrylic paint? if so, which brand?
Yes, I did airbrush acrylic craft paint. I do about 95% of my builds using acrylic paint. For this particular build here I used Folk Art Colorshift Pastel Green. I have also airbrushed DecoArt, Apple Barrel and Delta Ceramcoat on other builds. For thinning agents I have also used a variety of different concoctions. Everything from distilled water to Modelmaster acrylic thinner. Thanks for the great question and thanks for watching!
Do u airbrush?
Thanks for the question! As a matter of fact I airbrush about 95% of all of my builds. This particular build actually shows my airbrush in the camera.