Awesome job, I've followed your instructions to the T! Tile project came out perfect. Thanks for sharing your time and information. Keep the content coming, its extremely helpful!
Hi Isaac as always great educational videos, one ☝️ tip of advise when using rotating power tools, never use gloves ! If your glove gets caught on it, it will pull the rest of your hand in vs only using your hand 🖐️ it will cut you for sure but not cause excess damage, I work at an oil refinery as an operator and that’s a #1 safety issue we have.
Fabulous video, very informative and understandable. My first time working with this stuff and I'm a bit nervous, but your video gives me some confidence. Thanks.
Isaac I use 1/3/8 pine doorstop as a backer on the Schluter. Laying it on top of the profile before I cut it on the miter saw. Keeps the metal firm on the fence and on the table
We use a mitre saw also. If the saw leaves burrs, a sharp utility knife cleans small aluminum burrs easily. A good steel mitre box and hacksaw is nice to keep in your tool box for smaller amounts of cutting. It can be kept right next to your work area, don’t need to run power, and it’s safer. LOVE the Jolly/Rondec duo trick!
I use a Ryobi cordless 7" chop saw. It is light and small enough not to take up a lot of room in my truck and does a good job. It doesn't have the power of a corded larger saw but if I don't run the blade through the metal too quickly it won't grab the metal and does a great job.
The aluminum blade on a miter saw is the way to go. I bought an old cheap little used miter saw specifically for this purpose. It's way easier to move around than the modern sliders.
Liked the round corner trick, cool👍🏻 Also, thx for the continued videos. Helps to have some kind of “normalcy” in a time like this; as well as, being able to watch vid & have access to Internet. Have good one ✌🏼
Dude, been doing profiles like that for years, a little tip is to have a strip of wood underneath the profile and cut through wood and profile at one time. It also holds it square. Use wood that is wider than profile and cut from the backside of the profile. Like you are sharing tricks- .. Or do I?
I would suggest a couple things: secure the pce. to be cut as securely as possible to keep it from vibrating. Secondly, cut through the trim, stop the blade, then raise the saw. I've seen more shards launched on the back swing. Thanks for recommending the safety glasses or face shield. Ear protection and gloves don't hurt either. That particular non-ferrous metal blade has cut a lot of aluminum for me.
I used my miter saw to cut some of this. With a metal blade. I was going real slow.... to keep it a clean cut. Didn't want to mess up. That material is EXPENSIVE. Anyway- as I slowly cut- I realized- HOLY S#!% IT'S GETTING HOT AS HELL!!!
If you do use the wet saw a wire brush will remove the burs and won’t scratch the profile😄 I don’t always keep a chop saw because im a tile setter😂💪🏼👍 great video though!! Love all the trick and tips
Hi man, great video! I have a project that I'm not sure how to do it. I did my shower and installed the plastic border but I didn't go all the way up to the top and now I wana do that. Is there way I can remove the plastic borders and reinstall new ones once I get to the top without damaging/removing the tiles?
God bless you brother Isaac I love your videos and they are fun to watch, curious when you would like to try my shower system out I would really like to see what you think.
Its good to see you start the cut carefully, however if you maintain the feed speed throughout the cut or even slow at the end (as opposed to letting the blade cut more quickly at the end of the cut) you will find your much less likely to have small piece exit the saw at high velocity. I like that you found out as I have that you better make sure to label the blades as the factory marking disappears quickly. I keep forgetting to pick up one of those 20 dollar electric engraving tool to make a permanent marking.
Issac have you seen the Crain Tools 851? It’s called the metal mitre and die set. It’s a inside/outside bending tools resilient guys use in flash cove installations. (Sheet vinyl flashes up walls then tucked under metal edge. Mainly used in surgery rooms) Anyways the tool works wonders. Started using it a couple years ago to bend edges on hard tile. You gotta use the tool a little differently cause you don’t have the extra lip in back to notch out like with vinyl. This tool makes it super quick and easy to do for anyone. Perfect every time. We bend the inside and outside corners with it
Issac is there any tool you recommend for a round pebble shower floor I have a few high points that I want to smooth down for a better pitch to the drain thank you
Tip: the parts are too far back in the saw and the teeth are actually lifting the part off the table (cutting from below). Place a block of wood behind the part to move it outward past where the blade touches the table. This way, the cutting action is always downward against the table, and you won't have to search for those flying pieces in the next zip code :)
I have to get an aluminum blade. I use a fine tooth blade reversed in my saw (teeth pointing down instead of up) and it works very well, but it would be nice to have the correct blade.
I'm going to try a new blade, because my piece got caught up in the saw and everyone with me said I obviously shouldn't be using a chop saw (it wasn't the brand you recommended)
I always use a scrap of wood to hold the "key" down, those GDT will catch ( no mater how slow you go ) and at a minimum scare the crap out of you and probably launch across the room. It also helps with little cuts ( when it dosnt span your fence ). Im not a tile guy although I am the local "Authorized Schluter Dealer" which i find really strange. So I dont use a "aluminum" blade ( i might if that was what I did all day ) but my 12" 90+ tooth works just fine.
I bought the 10" aluminum diablo blade and cut a bunch of schluter today with it. I had it kick the schluter at me a couple times really hard and on one occasion it injured my hand pretty good. I don't know what happened to make it kick but I try and keep the trim from moving at all by keeping it pressed against the fence firmly. It's pretty scary when it kicks it back at you, It's a lot of force and it's very fast. Any advice to keep it from kicking or on cutting it safely? Thanks
As other commentators mentioned, use a piece of 2x4 or a piece of wood trim, to hold it in place, and a little bit further away from fence. That way it won't kick.
And make sure that blade is sharp. Mine is duller than dull but I haven't been able to find a new blade in the small city I am in. Its def not a perfect cut right now, and needs extra tailoring to make it good
Thanks. It would be nice If you showed how to cut and join the profile that you bent. The bend doesn't look great and when cutting it to meet that angle the grout line spacer and lip are problematic.
I sandwich the trim between two pieces of 1x3 (or any other type of sacrificial wood) almost same concept as have a zero clearance plate, preventing blowouts when cutting wood.
I think I got a faulty Diablo aluminum blade because for some reason it wouldn’t cut the A100 Schluter profile. Tried cutting a miter and 3 separate times it flung violently. Had to resort to cutting it on my wet saw.
After 20% of "chop saw"cuts getting bent from the blade grabbing the Schluter profile - no matter how slow I would feed the blade into the profile, I have found great success with using a SLIDING miter saw. I stand a sacrificial 2 X 4 up & take a grip clamp at the bottom of the fence & clamp the 2X4 onto the fence. Then I make a cut about 1/2 way down the 2x4 to use as a gauge for my cutting the profile. I take my profile & cut out ,about an inch of the flange on each side of where my cut will be ( I tried this with a chop saw & it would still cause some pieces to get bent) . I then place the profile on top of the edge of the 2x4, with the flange facing down, & slowly SLIDE my blade into the profile. Works for me.
It does not have to be specified as an aluminum blade until you get above 1/4" thickness. 40 tpi recommend and go slow. Also flip the trim so it doesn't have a flat edge up for the blade to catch on.
Been cutting light weight metals/ aluminum pieces with my maternity since day one, hold firm cut away. Actually think when I cut the aluminum , it sharpens my wood blade. Just saying. B. t cH s. 😎
I’m sticking with my Angie Grinder. I’ve used it so much an have a very steady hand with it. This is the worst thing to happen to tile IMO Ever. But the customer is always right(never) so gotta use it sometimes.
This is how i have always cut aluminum. but i just use a regular wood blade and it give the exact same cut. with no tear out or burrs. that way i dont have to waste time changing blades. I am still working as well doing residential remodeling regardless of the Corona. My monthly bill wont go away so i need to keep working
@@Butlrm01 yes you can use a 24 tooth framing if you want.. the KEY IS to go slow with the cut.. fast blade speed slow cut. but i would recommend a blade with 40+ teeth to produce a clean cut with no burrs.. again just remember to cut slow and wear SAFTELY GLASSES as those small metal pieces will go flying. you can cut all aluminum and copper as they are soft metals
Yes ma brutha, the miter saw is the best way to go when cutting the metal trims,now on the second hand you gotta get rid of that dewalt chop saw and get the real tool like the 7-1/4 battery operated Milwaukee chop saw!!!
Marco Hernandez the RPM and I bought the dewalt first and man did it grab and my friend convinced me to get the Milwaukee and wow the difference is like night and day
Hey i use the diablo aluminum blade and a kobalt 7 1/4 mitre saw, i’m not sure why but they catch very often , 1/3 the time and its scary, any suggestions so the metal doesnt explode on me so often
Josh Dickson since I started using a scrap piece of wood to hold the edging this has never happened to me. Make sure you cut through the wood and edging. Also make sure your battery is full so your rpms are at their max. My Dewalt chop saw slows a bit as the battery declines.
Could you please give me some advice? I have been driving myself insane trying to find someone to do my tile on our countertop. It has been over 2 years now living in our RV while working on our house..I have 12x24 tile wanting on top and think I will go with Shluter for the edge. I bought bullnose but it just doesn't look right bringing them up to a pieces I layed out just to get an idea. Never done it before but I learn fairly fast . I have searched everywhere online trying to see a video of tiling countertop on diagonal no luck all are just straight runs. I get major surgery on 10th of February. Praying to be in the house before then. I have pictures showing what I'm trying to do . Ty
Thanks Tile Coach - 1st time cutting Schluter. Appreciate your expertise and time for coaching!
Awesome job, I've followed your instructions to the T! Tile project came out perfect. Thanks for sharing your time and information. Keep the content coming, its extremely helpful!
Thank you for this video Isaac. Schluter profiles are not cheap didn’t want to mess it up.
Great video and thanks for the reminder about being safe/taking precautions, we need it.
Hi Isaac as always great educational videos, one ☝️ tip of advise when using rotating power tools, never use gloves ! If your glove gets caught on it, it will pull the rest of your hand in vs only using your hand 🖐️ it will cut you for sure but not cause excess damage, I work at an oil refinery as an operator and that’s a #1 safety issue we have.
Great point!
Excellent tips. And a precedent on safety. Thanks man.
Love your videos.
IMO, aluminum edge trim is most significant construction invention since aluminum house wiring. ;)
Slick work. You are totally in tune with your trade. 👌
Thank you so much! You answered all of my questions since this is our first time using a schluter.
Fabulous video, very informative and understandable. My first time working with this stuff and I'm a bit nervous, but your video gives me some confidence. Thanks.
Aluminum cutting blade. Got it! That was good info. Thanks.
Worked for me just now on 5/11 - happy birthday to me! Thanks!
Great tips, thanks for your work.
Game changer how did i never think of this ! Thanks dawg
Love the round bend, clean!
You're the man Coach!
Well done. Keep the videos coming.
That was great info. I'm glad I watched. ✊🏾🖤
Awesome. Thank you it also saves the 20 bucks here in Canada for the outside corners tops for rondec.
the bending trick was epic for me.thanks bruh.
Hey my friend, I like that rounded corner. I’m gonna try that. Thank you sir
Get a bend in your shlooter!
kickass. great vid
Isaac I use 1/3/8 pine doorstop as a backer on the Schluter. Laying it on top of the profile before I cut it on the miter saw. Keeps the metal firm on the fence and on the table
Same here, but any piece of scrap wood works for me.
Very informative! Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks!
Great video....useful.
We use a mitre saw also. If the saw leaves burrs, a sharp utility knife cleans small aluminum burrs easily. A good steel mitre box and hacksaw is nice to keep in your tool box for smaller amounts of cutting. It can be kept right next to your work area, don’t need to run power, and it’s safer.
LOVE the Jolly/Rondec duo trick!
Me too. Also cheap.
beautifully done!
Isaac good job on those good appreciated thankyou
Thank you 🙏
Good explanation!!!
great tips isaac. thumbs up
I use a Ryobi cordless 7" chop saw. It is light and small enough not to take up a lot of room in my truck and does a good job. It doesn't have the power of a corded larger saw but if I don't run the blade through the metal too quickly it won't grab the metal and does a great job.
How do you hold it or set it up to cut a 45?
Nice vid Issac. That music at the end goes perfect with your moooooosstache
😂
@@TileCoach lmao
Really neat ideas 💡 thanks
The aluminum blade on a miter saw is the way to go. I bought an old cheap little used miter saw specifically for this purpose. It's way easier to move around than the modern sliders.
Diy here. Used bolt cutters and cleaned the end of the Jolly with metal file. Turned out nice. Did not do 45 miter though...
Great video, Thank you!
Great vid. Thanks! If I only had a nickel for every time I had "a bend in my Schluter"...😂🤣😂🤣
I hate it when my Schluter gets bent!
Good tips!!
Liked the round corner trick, cool👍🏻
Also, thx for the continued videos. Helps to have some kind of “normalcy” in a time like this; as well as, being able to watch vid & have access to Internet.
Have good one ✌🏼
Dude, been doing profiles like that for years, a little tip is to have a strip of wood underneath the profile and cut through wood and profile at one time. It also holds it square. Use wood that is wider than profile and cut from the backside of the profile. Like you are sharing tricks- .. Or do I?
Thank you very much.
I do the same thing when notching extruded aluminum screening materials. Can do the same thing with thin aluminum on a table saw. Works well
I would suggest a couple things: secure the pce. to be cut as securely as possible to keep it from vibrating. Secondly, cut through the trim, stop the blade, then raise the saw. I've seen more shards launched on the back swing. Thanks for recommending the safety glasses or face shield. Ear protection and gloves don't hurt either. That particular non-ferrous metal blade has cut a lot of aluminum for me.
I used my miter saw to cut some of this. With a metal blade. I was going real slow.... to keep it a clean cut. Didn't want to mess up. That material is EXPENSIVE. Anyway- as I slowly cut- I realized- HOLY S#!% IT'S GETTING HOT AS HELL!!!
Video was Very helpful!!!
I have A question how do I cut edging for a sloped ceiling for the shower?
If you do use the wet saw a wire brush will remove the burs and won’t scratch the profile😄 I don’t always keep a chop saw because im a tile setter😂💪🏼👍 great video though!! Love all the trick and tips
My thoughts exactly
A wire brush will wreck the finish of aluminium or plastic. A sharp utility knife cuts the burrs and leaves a perfect edge.
How about a file?
You can cut aluminium with a regular saw blade too.
This is way better than Schluter's own video
Hi man, great video!
I have a project that I'm not sure how to do it. I did my shower and installed the plastic border but I didn't go all the way up to the top and now I wana do that. Is there way I can remove the plastic borders and reinstall new ones once I get to the top without damaging/removing the tiles?
God bless you brother Isaac I love your videos and they are fun to watch, curious when you would like to try my shower system out I would really like to see what you think.
I like your system. Local, too.
awsome idea
Its good to see you start the cut carefully, however if you maintain the feed speed throughout the cut or even slow at the end (as opposed to letting the blade cut more quickly at the end of the cut) you will find your much less likely to have small piece exit the saw at high velocity.
I like that you found out as I have that you better make sure to label the blades as the factory marking disappears quickly. I keep forgetting to pick up one of those 20 dollar electric engraving tool to make a permanent marking.
What's your opinion in using the ferrous metal blade that cuts stainless steel, to cut the aluminum schluter
Issac have you seen the Crain Tools 851? It’s called the metal mitre and die set.
It’s a inside/outside bending tools resilient guys use in flash cove installations. (Sheet vinyl flashes up walls then tucked under metal edge. Mainly used in surgery rooms)
Anyways the tool works wonders. Started using it a couple years ago to bend edges on hard tile. You gotta use the tool a little differently cause you don’t have the extra lip in back to notch out like with vinyl.
This tool makes it super quick and easy to do for anyone. Perfect every time. We bend the inside and outside corners with it
Selebrity 152 its that work for 125 mm shluter thx
Issac is there any tool you recommend for a round pebble shower floor I have a few high points that I want to smooth down for a better pitch to the drain thank you
Good to know, thanks!
Tip: the parts are too far back in the saw and the teeth are actually lifting the part off the table (cutting from below). Place a block of wood behind the part to move it outward past where the blade touches the table. This way, the cutting action is always downward against the table, and you won't have to search for those flying pieces in the next zip code :)
Excellent comment, thanks for posting !!
This method also keeps the finished edge away from the fence of the saw where it can get scratched up 😑
Great tip!!! and the next zip code - so true ;-)
Do you do anything special to waterproof a mitered Rondec corner? Caulk? Or just grout?
I have to get an aluminum blade. I use a fine tooth blade reversed in my saw (teeth pointing down instead of up) and it works very well, but it would be nice to have the correct blade.
I'm going to try a new blade, because my piece got caught up in the saw and everyone with me said I obviously shouldn't be using a chop saw (it wasn't the brand you recommended)
I Clamp a square to it witha piece of wood and use a hack saw. Clean lines with black or chrome profiles.
I always use a scrap of wood to hold the "key" down, those GDT will catch ( no mater how slow you go ) and at a minimum scare the crap out of you and probably launch across the room. It also helps with little cuts ( when it dosnt span your fence ). Im not a tile guy although I am the local "Authorized Schluter Dealer" which i find really strange. So I dont use a "aluminum" blade ( i might if that was what I did all day ) but my 12" 90+ tooth works just fine.
Hi Isaac, how many teeth is that Diablo blade? Thanks for doing these videos!
Isaac you should do a water test using zip fluid applied membrane
I bought the 10" aluminum diablo blade and cut a bunch of schluter today with it. I had it kick the schluter at me a couple times really hard and on one occasion it injured my hand pretty good. I don't know what happened to make it kick but I try and keep the trim from moving at all by keeping it pressed against the fence firmly. It's pretty scary when it kicks it back at you, It's a lot of force and it's very fast. Any advice to keep it from kicking or on cutting it safely? Thanks
As other commentators mentioned, use a piece of 2x4 or a piece of wood trim, to hold it in place, and a little bit further away from fence. That way it won't kick.
Hey brother is this also a good way to cut the stainless steal Schulter trim as well?
Hey brother what saw are you using their for that 7" blade to cut Sluiter?
I have been looking for a legit reason to buy that little miter saw. Now I have one.
Crazy question here.... can you put that blade on a tile saw? As long as the size of the blade fits the saw?
I have a seam in schluter that is a little ugly, anyway to overlay new schluter and make it look neater?
And make sure that blade is sharp. Mine is duller than dull but I haven't been able to find a new blade in the small city I am in. Its def not a perfect cut right now, and needs extra tailoring to make it good
What kind of blade do you use for brass schnitzel?
Thanks. It would be nice If you showed how to cut and join the profile that you bent. The bend doesn't look great and when cutting it to meet that angle the grout line spacer and lip are problematic.
Need to use a peice of wood ti make the fence give the piece of shulter full support behind before you cut. It much safer and gives a cleaner cut
I sandwich the trim between two pieces of 1x3 (or any other type of sacrificial wood) almost same concept as have a zero clearance plate, preventing blowouts when cutting wood.
Has anyone had problems with the aluminum cut edges in a water environment? Should we coat the cut edges in anything?
I think I got a faulty Diablo aluminum blade because for some reason it wouldn’t cut the A100 Schluter profile. Tried cutting a miter and 3 separate times it flung violently. Had to resort to cutting it on my wet saw.
After 20% of "chop saw"cuts getting bent from the blade grabbing the Schluter profile - no matter how slow I would feed the blade into the profile, I have found great success with using a SLIDING miter saw. I stand a sacrificial 2 X 4 up & take a grip clamp at the bottom of the fence & clamp the 2X4 onto the fence. Then I make a cut about 1/2 way down the 2x4 to use as a gauge for my cutting the profile. I take my profile & cut out ,about an inch of the flange on each side of where my cut will be ( I tried this with a chop saw & it would still cause some pieces to get bent) . I then place the profile on top of the edge of the 2x4, with the flange facing down, & slowly SLIDE my blade into the profile. Works for me.
AMEN 🙏 SISTA,THANKS
Thanks
Nice
It does not have to be specified as an aluminum blade until you get above 1/4" thickness. 40 tpi recommend and go slow. Also flip the trim so it doesn't have a flat edge up for the blade to catch on.
👍🏾
👍👍🍻
Where do you recommend buying frameless shower doors? Most remodel stores have astronomical price quotes.
Check out your local glass supplier. The may do doors.
Frameless shower doors... Robert High
I've got a little bend in my schluter too,the girlfriend loves it😁
Been cutting light weight metals/ aluminum pieces with my maternity since day one, hold firm cut away. Actually think when I cut the aluminum , it sharpens my wood blade. Just saying. B. t cH s. 😎
Wet saw it's the best
I usually cut it with the tile saw
Miter saw is the proper way to make precise cuts on aluminum trim period. Cutting on tile saw in a pinch , maybe.
Not sure why but sometimes when I am cutting the edges with a miter aluminum saw the blade will kick the edging and bend it.
You ever have issues with the miters expanding in a hot shower?
I’m sticking with my Angie Grinder. I’ve used it so much an have a very steady hand with it. This is the worst thing to happen to tile IMO Ever. But the customer is always right(never) so gotta use it sometimes.
This is how i have always cut aluminum. but i just use a regular wood blade and it give the exact same cut. with no tear out or burrs. that way i dont have to waste time changing blades.
I am still working as well doing residential remodeling regardless of the Corona. My monthly bill wont go away so i need to keep working
What tooth blade? I would rather just use the blade on mine. So you are saying a regular wood blade did just fine?
@@Butlrm01 yes you can use a 24 tooth framing if you want.. the KEY IS to go slow with the cut.. fast blade speed slow cut. but i would recommend a blade with 40+ teeth to produce a clean cut with no burrs.. again just remember to cut slow and wear SAFTELY GLASSES as those small metal pieces will go flying. you can cut all aluminum and copper as they are soft metals
Can you put that blade on a wet saw?
Yes ma brutha, the miter saw is the best way to go when cutting the metal trims,now on the second hand you gotta get rid of that dewalt chop saw and get the real tool like the 7-1/4 battery operated Milwaukee chop saw!!!
What makes the big difference between the two saws?
Marco Hernandez the RPM and I bought the dewalt first and man did it grab and my friend convinced me to get the Milwaukee and wow the difference is like night and day
Hey i use the diablo aluminum blade and a kobalt 7 1/4 mitre saw, i’m not sure why but they catch very often , 1/3 the time and its scary, any suggestions so the metal doesnt explode on me so often
Use a piece of lumber to secure it while cutting. A tip from one of my viewers, because I was having the same problem
TileCoach How do you do a arch around a window in a shower ?
Josh Dickson since I started using a scrap piece of wood to hold the edging this has never happened to me. Make sure you cut through the wood and edging. Also make sure your battery is full so your rpms are at their max. My Dewalt chop saw slows a bit as the battery declines.
Cut out the backside of the anchoring trapezoid, mitre it, and it won’t catch. Very safe.
I bought the blade you recommended, but it snags the Schluter and bends the crap out of it. Suggestions???
if you dont want the blade to catch the profile, just put your blade on backwards. At least that is what a tile setter friend of mine told me.
I just use a old wet saw blade and switch it back out for the normal cuts lol hate them strips
Hearing protection is another important thing
Could you please give me some advice? I have been driving myself insane trying to find someone to do my tile on our countertop. It has been over 2 years now living in our RV while working on our house..I have 12x24 tile wanting on top and think I will go with Shluter for the edge. I bought bullnose but it just doesn't look right bringing them up to a pieces I layed out just to get an idea. Never done it before but I learn fairly fast . I have searched everywhere online trying to see a video of tiling countertop on diagonal no luck all are just straight runs. I get major surgery on 10th of February. Praying to be in the house before then. I have pictures showing what I'm trying to do . Ty
I think the 12 inch miter saws have too much play in them. I tried using one and it caught, broke, and threw it.
Why cut with the flange on? ALWAYS cut off first with snips prior to chop saw. A wood block adds support as well!
Use your tile saw to cut these trim pieces, much easier.