Norwegian Madman's PiP Engine first time on Dyno
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- čas přidán 12. 03. 2023
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Use my code 2STROKESTUFFING to get $5 off your delicious, high protein Magic Spoon cereal by clicking this link: magicspoon.thld.co/2strokestuffing_0323
That was the best cereal ad I have ever seen. You're some kind of genius, or a bad influence. I need to try this now.
Trying - link to the site works, but the code shows as invalid (in the US, FWIW) and no $5 discount. I'm less concerned about the $5 than I am to make sure that they see your viewers supporting you through them.
Thanks, and I'll let them know👍
DEFINITELY not just you my friend LOL!!!!!!!
Shame that i cant order from Finland 😏
Is it just me that thumbs-up as soon as the video starts? I think surviving long enough to post another video deserves it alone! 😁
There are very few creators that I'll like before watching, but Alex always gets the 👍 in advance from me.
This has to be one of my most beloved content creators and I love following the build
I don't really like videos, but yes Alex always gets one even my Mrs noticed and made a comment 😂
Any channels i watch i like the video instantly .. my form of support for the ppl i admire and their work
This is the only channel that when the notification pops up I instantly click on it
HI Alex! Please don't forget using that heater will affect your dyno runs massively. You don't realize how much oxygen they take out of the air in a confined space. Open the door and get that nice cold fresh air in when doing your dyno runs. All the best!
Yeah! With how much time you're spending in the garage now, a cheap heatpump would be a wise investment. Do you have Jula in Norway? They regularly have a really basic air-to-air system on sale for 7000 SEK. What's so good about that model is it comes pre-filled so you can do the installation yourself and save a lot of money on that too. You need a signature from someone with refrigerant certification to buy it though, but that's merely a technicality. Well within your competence range to do it safely, I believe.
And that would explain the low dyno numbers from the death trap dyno run
No it won't effect the power of any internal combustion engine!
If it dose, every human inside would suffocate!
You can't just "use up" the oxygen without replacing it with somthing, in case of sealed room this would be with exhaust gases = instant monoxid or co2 poisoning!
And you would be surprised how much gas diffusion you have in a room to the outside, and how much mass of oxygen is in the air to use up! A cubic meter of air hase roughly 250g of pure oxygen in it! That's good for around 100ml of gasoline to burn.
You basicly need to burn a 20 kg bottle of propane or 15 liter gasoline to use up the oxygen in such a room!
And again, the defusion rate of such gases to the outside is enormous!
Also, on the runs he hase the exhaust extraction on, and guess what that volume is replaced with! 😉
I'd cut foam for the window and plastic tarp off the "dyno cell" for efficiency
@@martin09091989 Wasting your breath. Once people read one wrong thing on the internet trying to explain to them the right one is whistling into the wind. I gave up hope when one person told me "Fluid dynamics has nothing to do with how air moves" -- now I just assume everyone is a baboon.
For this carb, the original tank and fuel line have too small tank fuel flow, that would explain the Lean synthome, a bigger fuel line, fuel tap and tank vent helped my bugging out proplem
I've 3D printed a few intake parts from carbon fiber nylon and had great results with it. Also I 3D print my gaskets from TPU, no failures yet on my racing chainsaw with any of them.
I ride a 2stroke bike and have 3d printers thank you for this.
You're fuel filter works best with a pump as there's to much restriction on gravity feed. If you pre-filter your fuel you should be able to run it straight to the carburetor
@CameraMulemore head always=more flow 😇
@CameraMule Just what I told my wife..
@@noahwail2444 that's a good one 🌝👍
@CameraMule 4 strokes, 2 strokes, it is all fine with me, but there must be enough head no matter what. 😁
I was going to make a comment similar but you beat me to it.
I have three Honda FL350 atv's. When ever someone on our oddy site switched from the pulse pump to a gravity feed tank you MUST run a bigger float valve or they run out of fuel at full throttle and you melt a piston due to a lean out.
Jazz & revving 2 strokes.. Just perfect! 😁
Back off the screws on the clutchplate. thats how the engagement of the clutch is adjusted to the preferences of the rider. If the clutchscrews are turned all the way in it's almost an on off switch. I used to hand tight til the screw meets the spring and then 10-11 halfturns, makes it grippy but you can fether the cluch to engage smoothly. If the clush is not tight enough it will slipp, but you smell that right away. also have to take in to consideration that the clutch is made to take on 50-60 more horsepower the the PIP engine produces in this configuration. But that will hopefully change in a near future! 😅👍
Dude, I've been quietly watching your progress. I feel like this video was a huge step in the right direction. I've watched all of the problems you had to overcome and a lot of times I felt the frustration that you must have felt. All I can say now is Bravo! A job well done!
Keep kicking butt and living with the intention of solving hard problems!
True inspiration!
-Castor
Excellent cinematic shots, a nice touch. Love the camera angels coupled with the music, makes the content so much more lively... Keep on Keeping on, excited to see the next one!!
Ahh, the ol' B7ES & BR7ES. I can't tell you how many those plugs I've changed on my KX & YZs, from fouling plugs, due to too much 2-stroke oil on the trail fill-ups. There was no 32 to 1, or 50 to 1, there was poor a half a bottle of Golden Spectro 2cycle, and shake the shit our of your bike for a few seconds, and hit the trails again.
Good to see progres - super happy to see the tyre turn the dyno 💪🏻
Do NOT drink yourself to death! Was not feeling right today, but your video put a smile on my face!
Love your vids, dedication and humour
Hey Alex! Long time watcher, 1st time commenter here from New Zealand.
I've had similar issues with my yamaha AG100 engine (in my 1960 Zundapp Falconette)
The main issue for me was the fuel tank outlet diameter was too small for the fuel needed at WOT.
Took me quite some time to figure out, played with jetting, checking my float level a million times, checking for air leaks, removing the custom airbox, everything I could think off, then I wondered 'what if' and brazed in a larger outlet on the tank, and BOOM fixed!
Now my biggest issue is the factory porting VS. The modified 1986 Yamaha YZ80 pipe, I have 2 power bands 😅😅
I'm hoping to find another motor or just the barrel for dirt cheap, so I can still ride it every weekend while I sort the porting, or make a new pipe (I've never made a pipe before, but the YZ80 one is too big)
You would be suprised at how common that problem is... I built an experimental 50cc 2stroke engine that wound out to 15000 rpm+ and would immediately die, and it was because of the fuel tank outlet diameter being hopelessly small.
CARBURETOR STUFFING, an ongoing series of a madmans quest against entropy.
Har fulgt med på dette episke bygget helt fra starten. Du er totalt riv ruskende gal men også uten tvil ett genialt geni. Jeg er virkelig innponert av din store kunnskap. Med vyrdnad fra meg.
Hmm, a soft intake boot with slightly longer length may reduce carb vibration, and foaming. Also try a springy float needle to dampen vibration. Lots of motorcycle carbs have the float needle with spring and dampening pin built-in. I'm thinking that it's the vibration of the floatbowl that is giving you issues
Been watching since casting the cylinder. Your video quality has increased greatly.
2SS mornings are the best mornings!
when you put out a video every time you put something away, we can help you to remember /find it. Greetings from Germany nice to have u in the country
i love how much time you spend working on these videos, all the subtle edits compliment the focus really nicely, and every time you upload it's a good day. also, never lose that mario mug. it is precious.
Your shop is what I strive to build! Amazing videos man, lots of inspiration
You do this stuff so well! Compelling viewing!
Your editing is on point, love it.
Yesssss! I almost did not make it without your video last week!
I am addicted to this plight even though I don't know what is happening any more.
It's like a miniseries from the 70s
You might need a larger "fuel bowl" and a "modified" float...putting a piece of "fuel cell" foam in the bowl will stop the foaming. Shaving/modifying the float will let it run "true level" with float bowl angle at peak RPM. and a larger float bowl will allow more fuel at peak RPM..This is getting really interesting!!..I commend you on your perseverance!!..I think your very close...I don't know mlm if it will work but a snowmobile "belt" is made for a Variator setup...Again..VERY GOOD WORK!!!!..👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
Commenting at 19.30 mark , I'd say with big jump in pilot size then an extra 20 main size plus your needle position bottom clip to much for it.
I would've only went up 5 on pilot and 10 on main and run with center clip on needle , bottom clip on needle will flood engine if main jet size is to big mid throttle. Bowl is slight angle float will over fill carb slightly also as the float hinge is down hill.
My thoughts go back to original pilot it idle fine , then go center clip then move onto exact main . Also remember pooling of fuel on sparkplug give it a chance to clear before loading.
Awesome work Alex love it it.
There's a lot of Genius stuff going on here, its so good finally see actual wheel running.
And the Rum and Froot loops !
As soon as you started to solder that cable nipple it flashed through my head "what's he not put it through first?" That's exactly the sort of thing I do when my enthusiasm gets ahead of itself! 😁
When you finish this project, I hope you go on to making the world's most powerful Stirling engine.
Great thumbnail Alex. It’s your personality in a snapshot. I’m always happy to see you. Your an amazing fellow.
Thanks for making these videos, times are tough lately and the news everywhere is miserable. You genuinely lift my mood. Thanks mate
All the best from 🇬🇧
I used to have the same problem putting ends on my cables. In the end, I bought a bag of slits that I kept in my toolbox next to a pack of holes.
Wow! That rear sprocket looks like you're going to pull tree stumps with the bike,it's so big. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 👍 😀
Awesome vids 👌
I love how you eat cereal with spirits. So healthy.
6:49 When the milk runs out ^_^ I was not ready for that😂😂😂 You're getting really good at this👏👏👏
nice too see you are useing a speedway fream, back wheel and clutch :)
You may want to try a Horstman 4 disk externally adjustable wet axle clutch.
Love the videos, keep up the good work cant wait until the next one.
Alex if you want to live long enough to see your project completion, please do not leave the lathe chuck key in it!!! I've seen several horrible accidents because of that bad habit
Also about the pa6/12 intake, put a plate across the outside to tighten down on to take out the warp
Excited for the next video!
It's always like watching a mini movie, I love it!
Seeing you solder at the start reminded me I have an almost finished project that only needs soldering to finish - but I don't want to 😅😂
what a great way to start off monday morning.
Cant wait to watch this later today!
Yoooo. Notification squaaaddd
In some of my projects i have found that i must use certian resistor type sparkplugs to compensate for less than ideal combinations to have enough heat on the plug at low rpm without being way to hot at high rpm full load.kinda working almost like a dual heat range almost sort of
I personally believe the BR10ES that Alex has being using is way to cold taking into account the short running times and 5% castor oil that doesn't completely burn.
In my own A/C Piaggio NRG Power test engine I use a BR7ES using 30-1 semi synthetic 2 stroke injector oil. Max revs 14k.
28mm flat slide carb, 90 main jet.
Lots of tension within the edit, excellent 👍
This is my favorite channel!!
When you were casting plating machining 3D printing I wanted to be doing what your doing. Now your showing exactly what that would have gotten me. Still aspirational but balanced. Not sure I would be able to push through the way you do. Your doing great keep up the good work.
i can't wait to see this thing drive
So awesome! My Tomos Targa 50cc is looking sad, I will continue to modify it but it won't ever go as fast as your moped/motorcycle!!! Your effort for sound and video is really appreciated. I need more $$$ for tools and parts....
Amazing thank you for the video!
In one of my scooter tunrs it also was running lean at wot after a few seconds.. I made the float valve more open (drilled out a bit)... Cause the gasiline could not flow fast enough as the carb/engine wanted (level was sinking too much on wot)
Bliv ved min norske ven! Hold ud! Det skal nok lykkes. 💪🏼👍🏼
Can't wait til you take that beast out on the road very curious. it sounds awesome
I love your vids wish I could take a trip down there with my engine and learn how to turn
Where did this week go, Friday already 😆 🤣 ✌🏼💚✌🏼💚Ty for the vid
I was excited now that Magic Spoon had gotten to Norway, but no, still sadly only Canada, US and UK. It is hard to find a breakfast food for a celiac
I love the way you make your videos.
I love your passion for 2strokes.
I love the sounds your engines make.
But hey, we're all human shit happens. But you're completely honest about it. Never stop being you.
I've had a problem with one of my motorized bikes. The fuel line had too much vibration and would cut fuel flow. I figured it out while at work we had a big 200 gallon barrel with a see-through hose to see how much kerosene we had. When I wiggled the hose back and forth I could bring the kerosene up the hose. Anyways I zip tied my fuel line to the frame and fixed the bowl draining problem.
If you look at a fuel system called the "pump-around-carburetor-mod" used in the US on shifter karts (Honda based engines), it eliminates the need for a float completely, and stops fuel foaming due to vibration......later systems sold by Swedetech is called the "GFS" for gravity feed system......both of these ideas would likely solve the carburation issues your having, and kits are available for the PWK-28-carb.
solid mount the carb with something less vibrating than the engine!
A carburettor with remote float bowl would be good to try.
A better solution would be the controlled atmospheric pressure fuel delivery tank-known as the chicken-hopper tank. It does away with the float and needle set-up while providing constant fuel pressure to the engine's metering jet. I would also replace the metering jet with an adjustable needle valve . Details of the chicken hopper tank can be found in my book: 2-Stroke Glow engines Vol. 2, Power: Beyond the Basics.
Yes that's how it was done in years gone by. Sadly, you still have the vibration issue even with the remote float bowl.
Alex experimented with crank balance 6 years ago but did not pursue the venture. Looking at a standard road going low primary compression crank you can see how its balanced better.
IMO the alloy fillers need replacing with cork to improve the balance factor and retain HPC.
A better balance factor would lead to obtaining higher revs and more reliability.
These are the things you have to do for, the worlds most powerful two-stroke. Pip is a 50cc, right? I will always watch your videos as long as you continue to create!
I agree turn engine spark plug straight up. That works best heat rises and it wont burst fuel out so much i think.
A bit of a detour, but you may want to invest in a small exit sign for outside your workroom door, replace the faceplate with a vinyl that says "Madman at work" for times when you're welding or doing stuff that's super unsafe, it's fun and lets the kids/partner know when it's absolutely not safe to come and visit the workshop.
Heh. I was fighting with same problem at my chinece carb. I tried larger and larger nozzles, but nothin helped. It was always lean. At the end I drilled needle valve to a bit of larger size. Even that did not help enaugh. Last thing what I did, was adjusting floating bowl, or what name that is. The thing, that adjusts the fuel level on carb. Well, in the end my 100cc moped started to work porperly and did not get at lean anymore. Finally I cant say what did what and what helped moust. It just started to work properly. And now I have been driving with it abaut couple of years, and it works great. These 2 stroke engines and sheap chinese carburators can be kind of mysteryous sometimes.. I hope that helped you even a bit. Ps. Still keep going, I like to watch your videos. This is one of the best of the best, what youtube can serve.👌
PPS. And I do not mean, that you have cheap chinece carbs. Just telling my story abaut fighting with these probles.
And now, that I can remember, I tried a fuel pump also. It was way too much for carb, that doesnt need fuel pump. It only maked carb to float everywhere. It did not help at all. This trying was befor I drilled that needle walve. It was not good idea.
i really hope for your sake that the part holding the springtension up directly aimed towards nuts is the more sturdy part clamped in the frame if something would brake.... liked the breakfast serials with rum idea haha, gonna try it next time i have some
Perhaps a gauge port on the crb or intake somewhere may help to identify when where and severity of the issue or and perhaps a fuel flow turbine to monitor fuel consumption
my ears still screaming and the video over. I cant wait until its tuned in. Thanks
@2STROKE STUFFING
Hey, I think you should put a thermostat in your cooling system. I had one on my MZ 125 SM and it is just a piece of pipe that blocks water flow until like 70 °C.
Put that above your engine!:)
Also you might need a 2 stage or 3 stage carb setup. something that you can tune for each condition. idle, midrange and WOT.
I got a solution for you, - - > Counterbalance shaft < - - To eliminate some vibrations that might cause foaming. I have a 3D model of the counterbalance shaft used in derbi gpr 50 engines. I can send it to you if needed. It should not be too difficult to make.
The background music was epic!👍
Great production value, lots of fun camera work and your eclectic music choice never disappoints. If I may add though, some more mood lighting would be most welcomed. Of course the build project is stellar👏 Thank you
Music spot on as always :)
You salaciously satisfied my satisfaction for saturation thank you.
Hey meatball, you need the little “ufo” thingy on the delly carb that goes between the main jet and the atomiser tube. Drill some holes in it. Also get a clear float bowl for the love of God.
I would suggest cf petg for intake parts like that cf nylon part. Should be a lot stiffer and has good solvent resistance and probably easier to print with aswell.
Having the same problem with mine as I ported my 50cc and fitted a V-block reed plus a 22mm carb. I am going to fit a diaphragm type pump attached with a pipe to the crank case volume for the pulses. You should fit a fuel pump, gravity fed is not enough for an engine with so much revs and airflow.
You can make the clutch easier to use by taking some tension off the clutch springs, speedway riders are obsessed with adjusting them before the start of a race to get optimal slip on the run to the first corner
Cant you add a vibration dampener to the engine/frame? All that jerking might also affect the belt tightening (because of the variator) when engaging the clutch and make the engaging point less defined?
You left the chuck key in the lathe chuck. You thought we wouldn't notice, but we did.
music choice on point my guy!!
Everything okay my friend? Looking forward to the next video!
Just a thought on resonant frequency and fuel foaming,,, maybe the float is too light? I had problems with low mass of plastic float, made a brass one and had less problems.
Maybe it's time to revisit a diaphragm carburetor. Any position seems like there would be some benefits.Tillotson HL-231 is about the same size as your using now and is designed for a 2 stroke Harley golf cart.
this is worth any wait
Love the content Alex, have you considered the inertial mass of the drive train. It seems to be a lot of weight for a 50cc engine to over come. Keep up the good work.
Hello Alex. I noticed you wasn't using the stinger on the expansion chamber. Didn't this degrade performance when you removed it for testing.
Hey Alex another great vid about perseverance, hopefully your trip to Germany helps.
I think i said this before, but is it worth contacting Lectron to see if they can supply you with their new Mini Billertron Carb?
Our own Australian DLRA Speedweek kicks of next week and a number Smokers are competing.
I can't go but a few mates are running their Smokers,
a Nitrous Oxide assisted RGV250,
a Rotax 256 powered Bike,
a 1972 Kawasaki H1500,
last but not least a 1974 GT750 triple that makes 110hp.
Onward and upward,
Pete
Would a microsquirt fuel injector system work any better than the carburetor?
Don't leave the key in your Lathe chuck! That sucker can do some damage! Lovely work by the way ✌
awesome vid. very hard resipy but you will get there :)
Amazing! Sounds like you are running close to 20,000 rpm!
Nope. I know what that sounds like. :)
I think that engine is a little too big to hit 20,000 reliably. Here is what 21,000rpm sounds like (The engine made 6.75hp with the dyno calibrated.) Start at min 2:30 for the run. czcams.com/video/yy2TdY4VQJA/video.html