Timing Belt Replacement - Suzuki/GMC 2.0L D-TEC
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- This video will show step-by-step how to replace the timing belt, tensioner pulley and idler pulleys on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza. This car model uses the DOHC GMC 2.0L D-TEC engine. The timing belt components are also compatible with the Suzuki Reno, Daewoo Nibira and Chevrolet Optra. The timing belt service interval is every 6 years or 48 months (4 years). This vehicle had only 32,000 miles and was overdue for a belt replacement by 7 years. When the belt cover was removed, the belt was showing clear signs of wear with hairline cracks on the outside of the belt. The water pump was not replaced since the mileage was so low.
Before the time belt was replaced when the engine was running rough and erratically, the customer had brought her car to a local repair shop. They told her the timing belt slipped, the valves were bent and did not want to do the repair. When I took possession of the car and took off the timing belt cover, everything was in alignment. The car's problem was caused by a failed coil pack with various P0300 codes stored in the PCM.
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Parts & Specialty Tools:
Gates TCK309 Timing Belt Component Kit:
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Serpentine Belt Removal Wrench:
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OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack
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Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
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Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
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Standard Motor Products UF-503 Coil Pack:
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Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
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Battery Electric - Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" Compact Impact Wrench (Tool Only)
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Battery Electric - Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" Compact Impact Wrench with battery & charger
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Electric Ratchet Wrench - M12 Fuel 3/8" Ratchet (Bare Tool)
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1400 lbs Electric Impact Wrench - Milwaukee M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring
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I seen how you know what your doing with common sense. your a true gentleman for helping women and fucking Precision Auto Tune wanted my timing belt job too initial print out said $350 but after a couple questions concerning only by job, W/Out even including vintage “Wobbly Discontinued” H-Balancer Pulley, and how much overall Approx., old fat lazy Ken telegraphed saying “If broken crankshaft bolt I work until done” but at $116/Hr. “Whapp! Homie don’t play that”... good thing I did all this work 5,000 miles ago except no tensioner or seals but familiar with all parts & Labor involved having to lower engine to access crankshaft, so I know what to expect but this time I bought belt kit W/tensioner, & seals too (Lucas Red & Tacky grease). Got new bolt & pulley bolts, and extractor kit because THERE’s no head of bolt so how else would Timing belt still be on after 346 miles up from CA.?
Always a better deal when you do it yourself!
great camera and editing A++ 🤠👍
Thank you! 👍
Thanks. Very helpful video.
Glad you found it helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro My idler brg failed and it came out of time. I aligned the cam and crank marks but I didn't ensure #1 @ TDC. I think that's why it's not starting now.
@@normcook9335 Common mistake with timing belt installation is not checking the belt tension between the cam and crankshaft pulleys. They should be tight with no slack. The excess slack can mean being off 1 full cam cog. After installing the belt, try to turn the cam to the left (counter clockwise) and see if it moves. If it does, the belt's too loose. During belt installation, turn the belt clockwise to ease belt installation, then counter clockwise to apply tension ... then check the alignment points.
Ok gracias 😊
You bet!
I have a 2003 suzuki jeep 2.0 engine an she making loud noise, mechanic says its time chain, help because I just change gasket an its still making noise
If you're suspicious on the diagnosis, get and 2nd and 3rd opinion from other shops. Timing chains wear out from lack of oil changes and/or running the car will low oil levels.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank u so much for the heads up...I will do as u suggested.
is the tensioner pointer supposed to move when the bolt is tight
No it should not. If it does, hold the pointer with the allen wrench while tightening the center mounting bolt.
whenever i go to tighten the tension spring with the allen wrench instead of just the point moving the entire back piece moves in a tiny circle over and over and it never tightens. I made sure that it is being held in place by the mounting groove. idk what to do help.
Did you ever get help with that, because I'm having the same issue, and I can't seem to figure it out.
Having a tough time getingbthat dam belt to agling.