Changing Clutch Fluid: 370z/G37 Sport - Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep. 12
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- čas přidán 10. 01. 2017
- ** NOTE: Bleeder torque is ONLY 3 foot lbs or 40 inch pounds!!! **
Also:
(1) Be VERY careful when loosening the clutch bleeder. If you apply too much force too quickly, you will snap off the head!
(2) The factory shop manual specifies a tightening torque of 40 inch-pounds which is just over 3 foot lbs. Don't over tighten or it could break next time you work on the clutch.
***
In this episode of Motorvate’s DIY Garage, we will show you how to change the clutch fluid on your 370z or G37 Sport.
Presented by spurgear.ca
Please subscribe! - Jak na to + styl
Good stuff! I need to change my clutch fluid, this video has perfect timing!!!
Great! I am glad to help :)
Great video mate, very descriptive. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful!
Really high quality video
Either the way you teach and the angle you film
Hey cc90071,
Thanks for your kind comment on the quality, I REALLY appreciate it!
As you can guess, a lot of time is spent planning, shooting and editing.
Overall, each episode takes about 30-50 hours of (very enjoyable!) work.
Hey man idk if how active you are with your viewers, but I will try to spread your channel around. Im about of a huge G/Z club so hopfully they all sub to you also !
I would appreciate it very much if you were to get the word on my channel. Thank you!
Awesome vid. Thank you.
Rudy, you are welcome!
Have you changed YOURS yet? :)
I watched a couple of similar videos. Yours is the clearest by far. 100% Good job
Hey Chris Lawrence,
Thanks for your kind words!
Great vid and very helpful. I had a buddy come over yesterday to work the pedal for me while I opened the bleeder screw. The fluid that came out was incredibly dark just like in this video, and my 2017 Z Sport only has 20,000 miles on it. It drove like a completely different car after putting some new fluid in there. Acceleration is much smoother, gear changes are slicker, and the torque curve doesn't drop out of nowhere.
Thanks for the feedback and I glad it worked for you!
Thank you, I'm going to do this on my 2016 370Z.
Hey cotes42,
Quick tip: Do not over tighen the bleeder!! The torque spec is ONLY 3 foot lbs or 40 inch pounds!!! If you do over tighten it, it will snap next time you try to open it.
Have fun!
Very very helpful and informative sir.
Thanks!
Great video! Vey helpful.
Thanks!
Just make sure not to over tighten the clutch bleeder.
They are very small and can easily snap off the next time you want to bleed the clutch.
i love your videos, extremely informative
Hey Enkeis,
Thanks for your kind words :)
I am a little behind in getting out new episodes, but I should have a few out by next month :)
Motorvate DIY dont forget about spark plugs (:
Hey Enkeis,
I won't. Mine are due for replacement this spring and the cameras will be rolling during replacement :)
Best explained video ever
Thanks for the kind words!
Not sure where else to ask this, but I’ll try here since it looks like you had the same issues I did with the pedal.
I’ve been having issues getting the car into second gear when it’s hot. It’s a track car so it sees some pretty hard clutch use. The pedal has always been good, but had a tiny grind going into second on occasion. So I decided a flush might help. When I flushed the clutch the pedal went right to the floor and didn’t come back up without help. Tightening the bleed nipple didn’t allow for the clutch to work at all. It was either on the floor or all the way up, like an on/off switch. I ended up taking the pedal linkage loose to get a bit more travel and the pedal came back. Then I gravity bled it and it seemed ok.
Fast forward to the next track day and as the car gets hot the pedal only has half travel. Won’t go into gear. But if I pump the pedal 20 times or so it comes back enough to use for a while.
So I bought a vacuum bleeder. Sealed the threads on the clutch bleed screw and got a successful bleed with no air coming out on the clutch. Tried another track day and the problem was even worse. I had to pump the pedal 20 times between each run when the car was hot to get it to work.
I have no idea what’s happening. I’m fairly certain it’s not the csc as there are no puddles under the car and the fluid level has been consistent. My thought is possibly the pedal is out of adjustment and not letting they system bleed/operate properly especially when hot. I’ve noticed that the wheels spin a bit in neutral with the car jacked up in the rear. Another option could be the master cylinder going out, but I don’t understand how it could be completely fine before I flushed it and now it’s not.
I have a new 370z master on the way to try, but any help would be welcome
Hmmm... in reading you message, I would replace the clutch master and make sure the length between clevis (center of the end pin) and master cylinder is 133.55mm or 5.26"
See section CL in the FSM which is free for download at nicoclub dot com
Please let me know how you make out and good luck!
nice video thank you
Hey Hi Adm,
Thanks!
Be very careful loosening that bleeder screw as the head can snap off if you use too much force to quickly.
The factory shop manual specifies a tightening torque of 80 inch-pounds which is just over 6 foot lbs. Don't over tighten or it could break next time you work on the clutch.
Marvelous my guy, marvelous
Glad you liked it!
The CSC is very different compared to the traditional "external slave cylinder", but the overall process is the same.
God bless this video saved me alot of $
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know :)
Very informative and professional . After how many miles this fluid should be replaced sir ?
Thank you for your kind words!
Unfortunately Infiniti / Nissan don't provide a schedule of when to change the clutch fluid. I will be changing mine every 2 years when I change the brake fluid.
I will be doing this after changing my 6MT gear oil.
Good! Just don't over tighten the clutch bleeder... or it will snap off the next time you try to loosen it.
Great video. How much fluid did you end up using?
Hey Terry Yee,
One 500ml bottle it more than enough.
Quick tip: Don't over tighten the clutch bleeder, or will will snap off the next time you try to loosen it.
Good luck!
Great video, will this get rid of air in the the clutch lines aswell? If not then what can I do to remove air from the lines?
Hey Anes Nurkic,
This should also remove the air from the lines.
If you are having trouble getting the air out, you can try a "gravity bleed" where you open the clutch bleeder valve and let the fluid trip out for a while. Just make sure to keep an eye on the clutch fluid level - you don't want to add MORE air into the system.
Then bleed the system again. Good luck!
it's amazing you replied all comments. very nice videos. is this original CSC ? I am receiving a 370z in 3 months, CSC seems a potential issue after hours of research.
Hey liguben,
At the time that video was shot, the car was on the second CSC. I am now on my third.
If/when it fails again, I will be installing a Jim Wolfe HD CSC, and that should look after it.
Thanks for noticing that I reply to all comments, I appreciate it!
This is the best source to get ideas for new episodes and to help :)
Great video. Where can I buy the bleed hose?
Hey Nolan Romines,
Most hardware or automotive stores should sell 1/4" inner diameter rubber or clear vinyl hose.
I got mine at Homedepot or Candadian Tire.
Impressive you can reach the clutch pedal while under the car.
Yes... I have many talents!!! or maybe a helper!
Hi great video! I have a spare brand new bottle of motul dot 5.1. Is it ok if i use that as clutch fluid on my 08 350z? I used dot 5.1 for my brake fluid and i have a bottle left just sitting..
Hey Mike Ananian,
I think so... the DOT 5 stuff is tricky, as in the past it was NOT compatible with DOT 3 or 4. However this is DOT 5.1
and according to Motul's website:
"100% synthetic brake fluid on polyglycol basis for all types of hydraulic actuated brake and clutch systems in accordance with DOT 5.1, DOT 4 and DOT 3 manufacturers recommendations. Specially designed for anti-locking brake system (ABS). Dry boiling point of 516°F (272°C)"
As far as I can see you are good to go :)
**TIP: It is VERY easy to over tighten the clutch bleeder. If you do, it will snap off the next time you try to open it**
Bleeder torque spec: 40 inch/pounds or 3.3 foot lbs
Good luck!
Would be very helpful if you did a master cylinder replacement on the G!
Why? Mine is fine :)
I guess your is on its way out. Well, when mine does go, I will make an episode on that :)
@@MotorvateDIY Well mine is fine too but I just installed a new stronger clutch. It was recommended to replace the master cylinder but I saw no need.
Can you make a video on changing the rear diff oil? Thanks
You must be able to see the future! The next two episodes show how to change the manual transmission gear oil and diff oil.
Manual transmission fluid change DIY video is done: czcams.com/video/L2bnGzf1Gqs/video.html
Diff oil change is in post-production and will be released Feb 3.
Motorvate DIY thanks for the update, looking forward to seeing it!
S Smalls: Hmmm, I don't think I can. Older engines burn oil because something is worn out. Newer engines burn oil due to the reduced tension of piston rings to reduce friction while increase fuel economy.
Some people have had luck reducing oil consumption by using different brands of oil and even different weights.
I don't have any experience in this area, so I can't offer any help. Sorry!
How do adjust your clutch pedal my bitting point is way up.....so I stall every time n a hill. Thank you
Hey Mccoy Henry,
I haven't adjusted the engagement point of my clutch, so I don't have any first hand knowledge of how to do this.
There is some adjustment on the clutch push rod (between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder) but I don't know how much adjustment there is, or what happens if it adjusted too far. (the clutch might not fully release or fully engage)
Two possible solutions are buying the RJM clutch pedal (G37/370z folks love them, more details at rjmperformance.com) or try to adapt to the G37's clutch.
Another question! After refilling the master with new fluid and before you start the bleeding process do you leave the cap off the master or leave it open? In other words during the process of bleeding did you leave the cap off the master?
Hey Mask Man,
I left the cap off while I was bleeding it, just to make refilling it a little quicker.
If you are worried about it absorbing moisture, just put the cap on while you are bleeding it and all is good.
Thanks again! Your the best!
This is essentially like a flush and bleed at the same time...correct?
Mask Man, Sort of.. Bleeding usually means removing air from a system. By simply driving the car and making turns the system bleeds it self, which is nice!
The main goal is to remove as much of the old fluid and replace with fresh fluid. This should maximize the life of the power steering pump and rack & pinion.
Z1 Motorsports sells OEM slave and master cylinders at a discount and sells the Motul Fluid. You can also buy Nissan GTR Type II fluid but it's more expensive (dealer only).
Good to know... I am on my 3rd stock CSC and if (when?) it fails, I will try the Jim Wolf HD CSC: www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=564
Hey, love your videos. My bleed nipple on my g is not like yours. It looks like flimsy hose about 2 inches long with the bleeder at the end. Do u know why that is?
Hey Sanar yaldo,
You just might have an upgraded slave cylinder...
Does it look like this:
conceptzperformance.com/items/4593/original/main.jpg
If it does, they should last much longer than the Infiniti slave cylinders.
Would it theoretically work if you depressed the clutch and put a vacuum line on the bleeder and just kept filling the reservoir?
Some have had success doing it that way, but the factory shop manual says:
"Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power bleeder will not purge all the air from the system."
Does the brake pedal also get stuck sometimes whenever you do a Brake fluid bleed and does one have to do a clutch bleed if they are changing it ?
Hey Young Snoop,
Not that I have seen...
The springs inside the brake master cylinder should push the brake pedal back to the top.
Maybe you can answer this!
I replace my clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch fluid and add dot3/dot4 5k miles ago and sometimes my clutch pedal it's not returning 100% back, mostly during hot weather or long distances drives. Other than that it works perfectly. Do you think the problem is the type of oil?
Hey guelo4674,
I don't think the problem is related to the type of clutch/brake fluid used.
I do think there is still a little bit of air in the system. When the fluid get hot, the small air bubble will expand a little and that can cause the clutch pedal not to return to the top.
You might want to wait for a hot day and bleed the clutch again.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY thank you, i will try that!
Can you use dot 3 fluid if you can’t come across that type you used ?
Check the printing on the top of the cap, if it says DOT 3, you can use any DOT 3 brake fluid.
Love your channel and thanks for all the videos. Couple of questions,
1. Pump 5 times hold the pedal to the metal....then open the drain for how long?
-In another video, I watched, the guy opened and closed the drain really quick but you appeared to hold it open for a longer period of time...
2. Do you only open the drain when your assistant has the pedal completely depressed? And he maintains that depression the whole time you leave the drain open?
- Again, in the other video I watched it appeared that he had his assistant put the petal to the floor, opened the valve but then his assistant started pumping while he opened it...
Thanks for your time and channel...
Mask, I am glad you enjoy my channel!
Answer 1:
Keep the bleeder open until the flow stops, then close the bleeder.
Answer 2:
Yes, the clutch pedal needs to be at the floor to pressurize the system. Then open the bleeder and the fluid will be pushed out by the pressure. Close the bleeder, lift up the clutch pedal (it will stay on the floor) and push/lift FIVE times. This will completely re-fill the concentric clutch cylinder (CSC). Then repeat a few times.
Due to the design of the CSC and CSC piping, if you pump the clutch pedal with the bleeder open, you are not compressing/expanding the CSC and new fluid will not enter the CSC. This method works on the older style external slave cylinders, but not the newer CSC.
I hope this helps you!
Thanks!
Hey motorvate...Thanks for posting this vid...I have a question...my clutch pedal lost all pressure and not only it got stuck to the floor but I couldn't go into no gear...so I had it towed to dealer and they flushed and changed the fluid to the 4 dot gtr synthetic fluid...got it back it worked fine for 1 day...now the pedal goes althw way down to the floor but only comes up maybe about 3 inches from the floor...it still goes in gear sometimes but something is still wrong...Do you think that air is still in the line where the didn't bleed it properly?...also my 370z has very low miles..19,417 miles...Your response would be greatly appreciated..
Hey larry t smooth,
Check the level of your clutch master cylinder and make a note of it. Push the clutch pedal to the floor and pull it back up to the VERY top 5-6 times and check the level again.
If it is the same level, there may be some air in the system.
If the level is lower (which I think it will be) your "concentric slave cylinder" (CSC) has failed and is leaking, which results in a car that can not go into gear, since the clutch can not be dis-engaged. After a few minutes, a small puddle will form where the engine and transmission meet. This is the leaking CSC.
This is a common failure of the 370Z & G37 with the manual transmission.
Your question is very timely as my CSC failed this morning (July 2417) with the exact same symptom. :(
Motorvate DIY thanks for responding...took it back to the dealer today and they said it was the master cylinder...
Hey Larry,
Glad to hear the issue was figured out. :)
I’ve been trying to finish this job on my clutch but been running into a few problems, me and my friends tried the pump hold bleed close method but very to no fluid comes out. Also the clutch sticks all the way to the ground when doing this and am not getting any pressure from the clutch, the only thing that remotely seemed to work was to gravity bleed it which actually got fluid out and gave me pressure is this an okay way to do it ? Also is m clutch or master slave broken they worked fine before this job.
It can be tricky to bleed the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) clutch used on this car.
If gravity bleeding works for you and you get a normal clutch pedal back, that's all that matters.
Also, as shown in the video, you do need to lift the clutch pedal when bleeding the clutch... sometimes a lot.
Good luck!
I have a Infiniti g37s manual transmission and when ever I start it in the morning it makes some grinding noise but when I let off the clutch fast it goes away I don’t what it could be. When ever the engine is warmed up it’s doesn’t make the noise only when cold
Hey Kosovo 108,
I really don't know, it is hard to guess from your description.
Could you post a video so I can hear it?
Do you have Instagram I can send it over?
Kosovo 108 I have the exact same problem you are describing, and I couldn’t find anything on the forums. I just bought my G37S and I’m kinda worried.
Man I got the same problem too!
If I were to just gravity bleed until i see new fluid dripping out, is that also possible? I don’t want to have the nightmare problems some people faced while doing this job.
Hey Jawad Anser,
I think that would be better than nothing, BUT only the brake fluid in the tubing drips out. The fluid in the concentric slave cylinder won't be flushed out.
Just be VERY careful with the bleeder. Don't over tighten it as it will break the next time your try to bleed it.
I'm new to this and attempting my first attempt at this. The fluid that goes into the master cylinder of the clutch master cylinder is dot 3 brake fluid?
(I assume your vehicle is a G37 or 370)
Correct! From the G37 Owner's Manual:
"Brake and Clutch Fluid: Use Genuine NISSAN Super Heavy Duty Brake Fluid or equivalent DOT 3"
@Motorvate DIY Correct, it's a G37. I noticed you've used the Motul 600, how did that work for you as I've order some for me to use instead of the DOT 3 brake fluid.
Great video! I will be doing the same thing to my G37s tonight. I just got my clutch and slave cylinder replaced and when ever it is really hot outside I loose almost all pressure on my clutch pedal. I'm thinking it needs better fluid or a bleed to solve this issue?
Hey emmanuel guerro,
I agree, it does sound like there is a little bit of air in the system.
Bleeding it should fix this.
*** Just make sure not to over tighten the bleeder nipple. If you do the head can snap off, then the CSC tubing will need to be replaced. ***
I followed the instructions from this video last night. The clutch fluid was dark and there was some air in the system. Thanks for the tip and for making this video!
Hey emmanuel guerrero,
I am glad that the video helped. :)
How does it feel with the new clutch?
I assume you mean the new clutch fluid: In my case, the clutch didn't feel any different after changing the fluid. BUT I did feel better knowing it had fresh fluid.
I have 2008 g37s and my clutch slips when I change gears only at high rpm. also noisy rattling under the car. vdc,slip,brake light is on.
any help?
Jay, if your clutch slips at high RPM it will probably need to be replaced soon. The "noisy rattling" under the is from the dual mass flywheel and is normal.
For the VDC, Slip and Brake light, the first simple check is your brake fluid level. If it is low, it can set off those lights.
Good luck!
My car is making that same creaking noise (off or on). What is it from? Thanks,
Hey A Ramirez,
My car only made that sound after it sat for a few days. After driving it the sound went away. I think it is caused by a lack of lubrication between the pressure plate diaphragm spring and the throw out bearing. The only way to lubricate it, is to remove the transmission to get access.
Does it happen when the car is idling and you push in the clutch?
Is this the same for the automatic/manual shift mode version of this vehicle?
Nope :) This is only for vehicles with a clutch pedal and a manual transmission.
I have heard that this CSC failure is a common problem on manual transmission 370Zs & G37s. Do you have any ideas or feelings on what the cause might be? I asked a specialty Z car shop about the advisability of changing out the clutch hydraulic fluid early(12,000 mi) on my 370Z to avert this problem but the owner told me that in his experience most of these failures seem to occur after the reservoir is opened for things like flushing or fluid replacement, so he doesn't advise doing a flush unless the fluid is really dark. Do you think that dirt is getting into the hydraulic system when these reservoirs are opened or that some fluids might not be compatible with the seals?
I did read that even though the 370Z's components are sourced in Japan, Nissan has used Renault as the source for the hydraulic clutch assembly since their merger. So, I'm wondering if there might be a design flaw or manufacturing defect that's inherent in this assembly.
Hey Jim Nesta,
Yes, it is a common problem... My G37 is on its third CSC!
Jim Wolf (well respected Nissan performance parts developer) says:
"Consistent among all of the failed samples was a large ingestion of clutch dust into the cylinder’s inner sealing sleeve and ultimately passing through the hydraulic seal itself. In most cases the seal had not been damaged, but had been contaminated by large amounts of clutch dust which would eventually lift the seal off of the sleeve allowing fluid to escape to the exterior of the cylinder. On many of the failed cylinders this condition was expedited by distortion of the plastic piston / seal support used as a substitute for a more appropriate metal piston / seal support as a cost saving measure. "
Source:
• www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=564
• www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/L3507-CSC00_CSCINSTRUCTIONS_2_PAGES.pdf
When my CSC fails, this is what I am going to use as a replacement.
Can you do one for the 635 and 350z?
Hey Creative Z33,
Thanks for asking, but I can only show the vehicles I own or have access to. (Friends & family)
Since the 350 and 635 have a traditional external slave cylinder for the clutch, I would think there would be a lot of videos showing the process.
Good luck!
What hose are you using on bottom when bleeding ?
A clear vinyl tubing from the auto parts store. If memory serves me correctly, it has a 1/8" inner diameter.
Does this prevent the clutch from sticking? Thanks in advance!
Typically no... a "sticking" clutch is usually a mechanical issue.
Hey I’m having a heck of a time working with my system and hope you can help with some ideas. I have an 08 350z, upgraded clutch and lightweight flywheel from z1, jwt hd slave set up with less than 1k miles on them. It drove fine and one day I noticed a squishy pedal / hard to put in gear so I assumed the oe master was giving out (120k on it). Replaced the master, bench bled it, adjusted rod and clevis so there is no preload whatsoever on it. I have bled the system over 20 times now every possible way and am left with a soft pedal while cold and when it warms up it gets extremely hard. Do you have any suggestions at all for this issue???
According to the factory service manual, the rod/clevis length is 5.26" / 133.55 mm and I would verify that lengh.
If it is over or under adjusted, the master cylinder may not be able to allow proper fluid flow.
I assume that you have tried a gravity bleed, so other than that, I'm out of ideas.
How many bottles of the mutul 600 do I need sir ?
Fava4, I used about 1/4 - 1/3 of a 500 ml bottle. The clutch system does not hold a lot of fluid.
Where could I get one of those syringes ? Auto parts store?
Hey The Baron,
The one used in the video is actually to measure 2-stroke oil for an outboard engine, so I would think any auto part store would have something like that.
You could also try a horse supply store. They are used to give medicine to horses.
Good luck!
Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch.
Hey Clit Commander,
(I am assuming you are driving a G37 or 370z) Hmmm hard to say... Does the new transmission have Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 Manual Transmission Fluid or something else? Sometimes the aftermarket fluids are too slippery for the transmission syncros to work properly which can result in harsh shifting.
i have the same problem but in opel zafira 2.0 dti 16v, the problem that it doesnt take the first gear but takes directly the third,,and its hard to take the reverse gear, i found a solution for the first gear. when you start first thing directly put the secnd gear and downshift it to the first gear and then start the car. you will see that it will take it directly, i always start it like this way and my car is more powered, i mean the difference of before i knew this way. tell me if it works for you.
Did you figure it out?
Was just wondering why I felt brake pedal soften when I pushed in the clutch... didn’t know the two systems were so closely connected. Boy I feel dumb!
Hey Nick Dubya,
I have no idea... The brake system and the hydraulic clutch are completely separate systems.
They don't even share brake fluid.
On my G37 Sport, I don't notice any difference in pedal feel when I push the clutch in.
Is this on a 370z or G37S?
While you’re in there, you should also change out the rubber master cylinder line to a clear clutch fluid line. The OEM black rubber is what breaks down and turns your fluid black.
Interesting point...
I have often wondered if the black/dark particles are from the hose, or from the rubber seals wearing in the concentric slave cylinder (CSC)
As I see it, since there is a slight amount of friction between the bore and the piston, I have always thought it was "rubber dust" from the seal.
Anyways, I simply use a turkey baster to remove the dark fluid and dirt/dust in the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid... It is quick and easy for me :)
Can you change the fluid on a 370z by using a vacuum pump only? And without having to pump the pedal?
Thanks ✌🏼
I don't think vacuum pumps work well for this. Since the bleeder is loose, and vacuum is applied, air gets between the threads of the bleeder and caliper.
This means, I can see when all the air is out of the system.
However, there is now harm in removing some fluid with vacuum bleeder.
Just keep in mind, with the "concentric slave cylinder" (CSC )a vacuum bleeder won't be able to extract that fluid. That requires the clutch pedal to be pressed, to fully compress the CSC.
Anyways, that's my 2 cents :)
@@MotorvateDIY that makes sense. 👍🏼
where do you get your fluid from?
I picked up the Motul RBF600 from a local Motorcycle Shop in Toronto: fortnine.ca. You can also find it on Amazon.com, ebay, or your local performance shop should be able to get it for you. Good Luck!
How did you know "when you were done bleeding the system" though? That wasn't explained, or at least, i might have misunderstood if you did?
Easy answer... keep bleeding until you think the new fluid has replaced the old fluid in the system... For the clutch I think that is about 1/2 pint or 1/4 litre. You can't OVER BLEED it, so I usually do a few extra bleeds just to make sure.
Hi i change the slave cylinder and master cylinder and bleed the clutch now the clutch grab really good for few days then the clutch pedal get soft and sometimes i have to pump the clutch to make it hard again can u tell me what the problem
Anytime the pedal gets soft, somehow air has got into the system. Bleed it again and see what happens.
Do you feel that on our G37S 1-2 gear changing is notchy compared to the others
Hey David Lopez,
I think it is... also the clutch engagement is a little abrupt. I generally shift slowly for the first 20-30 minutes of driving (so you don't feel that gentle "crunch") and then is is much better.
the clutch engagement can be fix by swapping out the help spring. search G37 helper spring, i swapped the spring and it help a lot!
I can't get the clutch to come back up. I tried everything in the video. Nothing works. Any ideas? I had to take out the bleeder valve because it was clogged. I cleaned that up and put it back in (at that point the system was empty from it all draining out) so I filled the system back up and continued to follow the steps in the video, I did this for hours and couldn't get the air out of the system and couldn't seem to build pressure. Also I have it in 1st gear. Idk if that makes any difference. Please help! :P
Hey Alex Richardson,
Try this:
Fill the reservoir, open the clutch bleeder for and let it drip through for about 15 minutes. This is should mostly fill the CSC with brake fluid.
Then, close the bleeder and manually pump the clutch pedal up and down 5-10 times. At this point the clutch pedal should return to the top on
its own. Press the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder.
Once the flow stops, close the bleeder and repeat a few times.
** Do not over tighten the bleeder or it will snap in two the next time you change the clutch fluid **
Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Sweet, I'll give it a shot now. I'll let you know.
Hey Alex Richardson,
I forgot to mention, make sure the clutch pedal is UP when the reservoir is full and bleeder is open.
If the pedal is down, it won't drip through. Good Luck!
I just did a similar procedure on my 95 Maxima following directions in my factory service manual. My car has two bleeder nipples and the manual says to alternate between the two. I noticed that even after pumping the pedal several times and making sure it was in the full up position each time, it would still remain at the floor after opening and closing the bleeder requiring the assistant to manually pull up the pedal for the next cycle. So, it never returned to up position on its own at all during the entire procedure. Are they any cars where this is actually normal? My FSM says nothing about having to do this. I alternated between the two bleeders probably 10 times and at each one, did it 2-3X.
Hey Mountain Biker,
Nice car!! I had the exact same car 20+ years ago.
If the pedal stays on the floor, there is air in the system.
The clutch pedal is pushed up by the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate via the clutch/brake fluid.
Try this:
• Fill the clutch fluid reservoir
• make sure the middle bleeder is closed
• open the slave cylinder bleeder
• wait for fluid to drip out. It might take a while.
This is known as a "gravity bleed" and it can be useful to get enough air out of the system so the traditional 2 person clutch bleeding works.
After the gravity bleed, try the normal method again.
Another option is to use a "vacuum bleeder" on the slave cylinder.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY Thanks. Could there really have been air in the system?? Nothing was opened or serviced - I was only doing this to flush out the fluid as I had to take the air cleaner assembly off and had easy access to the lower nipple which I believe is the slave cylinder - it is right next to a piston that I can see move when the pedal is depressed. My factory service manual calls this lower nipple the "air bleeder" by what they call the "operating cylinder" and there is another one by the strut tower by what they the "clutch piping connector" and they specify to do the bleeding iteratively between the two. I believe it is the is lower one that would work for gravity draining, correct? Also, another video mentioned a concentric slave cylinder which they imply could cause initial pedal sticking but would then correct itself in the procedure - which it didn't of course. Do I have a CSC? But I also understand an "over-center" type spring could explain what I have observed and this is totally normal??
Hey Mountain Biker,
Your Maxima doesn't have a CSC (concentric slave cylinder), which is good as they are not reliable like your "external" slave cylinder. My G37 is on its THIRD CSC.
Yes, the lower bleeder screw is the one you want to open for the gravity bleed.
(and that is on the clutch slave cylinder)
I can't see a "over centre" spring being the problem. The clutch spring is in the pressure plate and is a diaphragm spring, which can't get "over centre" , it just "pops" to one position or the other. (like when you can click a juice bottle cap)
You mentioned that you can see the "slave cylinder piston (output rod)" move.
This is good. Maybe air didn't get in the system. Maybe a mechanical fault happened while you were bleeding. As I see it, that is not very likely as the clutch system on the Maxima is VERY reliable. (as you can guess it is difficult to troubleshoot a problem over the internet)
The clutch slave cylinder pushes against the "throw out bearing fork" How much does the end of the slave cylinder move when the pedal is pushed?
I would still try the gravity bleed, air in the system is the most likely cause.
(is is possible for air to enter the system if the bleeding procedure is done wrong or out of sequence.)
@@MotorvateDIY Hi! Just wanted to post back that I performed the gravity drain that you mentioned above. I drained probably 300-500 mL or so and didn't note any air come out. Then, I performed the same procedure I listed above and alternated between the upper bleeder, and lower slave cylinder bleeder. At certain times some very small bubbles did appear but again, the pedal had to be pulled back off the floor in order to start the next sequence. I did each location probably 5x and alternated between the two bleeders probably 3x, so each bleeder saw about 15 more cycles. I wish I could be certain the pedal should return on its own. I have scoured the internet and some sites mention you may have to pull the pedal back up, however, they don't clarify if that will correct itself at some point during the procedure or if that is an inherent feature of some clutch systems during bleeding. Again, note that once the pedal is pulled up, it WILL return on its own after depressing as this is what the factory service manual says to do - repeat pumping prior to opening the bleeders. It is only after opening one of the bleeders while the pedal is down, and then removing your foot, that the pedal will not return on its own. I did the job because the lower bleeder was easily accessible as I removed the air cleaner box etc. to perform a throttle body cleaning. I'm going to button it up and see if the clutch performs OK on the road and ask a mechanic I know at Nissan about this.
PS I know a LOT of your procedures for the fourth generation Maxima used to be linked on Maxima.org. Many of these links no longer work. Are your written procedures and or videos archived anywhere that can be accessed? I bought my 95 new and with only 78k miles on it, it is still in spectacular condition and I want to keep it that way. Thanks!
Hey Mountain Biker,
If the clutch pedal returns back to the top with the bleeders closed, you are good to go. If the clutch feels the same as before and the engagement point is the same, all is good!
As for the old Maxima content, I do plan on adding it back to motorvate.ca, but until then you can use this link: web.archive.org/web/20110702161309/motorvate.ca/
Hey i reaplaced my csc after it went out with a csc delete kit and my clutch pedal feels different also my fluid looks brownish any ideas ??
Hey Osbaldo Rojas,
I would expect the clutch pedal to feel different, since you have a different slave cylinder with a different mechanical linkage.
As for the brownish fluid, I would keep bleeding until it is the colour in the clutch master cylinder.
It might be something as simple as an assembly lube for the rubber seals.
What kit did you purchase?
@@MotorvateDIY i purchased the cmak csc delete kit from zspeed
Osbaldo Rojas I’m having this issue as well
tried these steps several times and the clutch simply will not come back , im not sure what else to do the master cylinder seems to be fine and the slave is brand new along with the clutch
, please help
Hey Kenny Rua,
I am sorry for the 3 day delay in getting back to you.
I would fill the clutch master cylinder and then open the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) bleed nipple and leave it open for a while until fluid starts to drip from it. Your new CSC does not have any clutch fluid in it and it needs to be filled a bit before it can build any pressure and be bled properly.
Keep a close eye on the master cylinder fluid level so that it doesn't get too low and allow more air in the system.
Next step: close the bleed nipple and push/pull up the clutch pedal 10-15 times. This should build up a little pressure.
With the clutch pedal at the floor, open the bleed nipple for a few seconds, then close it. Repeat this step until the clutch pedal operates like normal.
Good luck Kenny!
Sounds like your slave cylinder is going. It's a symptom to have a hanging clutch pedal. But try changing fluid, then change the master cylinder. The G37 has an internal slave so changing it is a big job.
I was thinking my cap broke lol i guess u just press it down and thats it
Yup!
You don’t think your csc failure right after the fluid change to DOT4 600 had anything to do with the new 600 motul?
Hey David Lopez,
Good question, but I don't think it did. DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid are compatible and it is a known weak point.
The first owner replaced it under warranty at 40,000 miles and about 40,000 miles later it went again.
On a future episode, I will be doing a failure analysis to understand what broke.
Motorvate DIY how would you describe your clutch pedal felt before the slave went out?
Hey David Lopez,
It felt about the same... BUT after the CSC was replaced I think the clutch pedal felt a little smoother, but it is hard to say.
@@MotorvateDIY should the CSC be covered under the power train warranty?
Hey GTR24,
I have asked this exact question to Infiniti Canada, and they said "It is not covered, since the clutch system (which includes the CSC) is considered a wear item, like brakes"
So i was trying to bleed my clutch system to get all the old grey and dirty fluid out. But I also snapped my bleed screw in the process. Is it possible to bleed air out system by cracking open that hard line that connects right below the bleed screw to the CSC or does that do no justice at all?
Hey Eks Is,
I think that is a great idea and it should work as long as there isn't any air in the other tube.
Later today I will see if I can find a replacement bleeder. Nissan/Infiniti doesn't sell one, but they fairly generic. Then you could drill out the old one and screw in a new one.
Good luck and please let me know how you make out.
Hey Eks Is,
Well... after a few hours of digging, I may of found a replacement bleed nipple. The part should be in on this Friday or next Monday.
Once I have it, I will let you know if it fits.
If it does, then can drill out the broken bleeder, extract it without damaging the threads and pop in this one.
If you clutch is working ok, maybe don't anything until I get the part and test fit it.
I will let you know ASAP.
Hey thanks for the help I appreciate it. I was able to find a whole replacement for the whole bleed tube assembly on Z1motorsports.com its $33 dollars, im hesitant on getting it though, cause to replace the bleeder tube assembly would mean id have to drop my transmission again and I rather not hahaha if i had to change my clutch yeah id be all about it lol. so hopefully that new bleeder works out for you if it does im a go that route and just drill out the broken bleed nipple and get a new bleed screw.
Anytime :) When the part comes in, I will see if it fits my old CSC tube assembly and let you know ASAP.
Hey @@6402457,
I think I have a solution for you!!!!!
It looks like the clutch bleeder for the G37 / 370z is a M6 x 1.0 mm.
After much searching, I found out that Volkswagen has used them for a long time:
VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 1958-1978
VOLKSWAGEN CAMPMOBILE 1968-1974
VOLKSWAGEN COMBI 1975-1979
VOLKSWAGEN FASTBACK 1966-1973
VOLKSWAGEN SQUAREBACK 1966-1973
VOLKSWAGEN SUPER BEETLE 1971-1979
VOLKSWAGEN TRANSPORTER 1950-1979
and is part number: 21 16 114 77a.
So, I ordered one in ($5) and it fit well into my spare clutch bleeder tube assembly.
The only difference is that the VW part only screws in about 2 turns, where the stock one is about 3 turns. I don't think that will be a problem since the torque spec is not very high at 80 inch pounds or 6-7 foot lbs.
So you can order the VW part (21 16 114 77a) or hit google to see if you have better luck than me looking for a M6 x 1.0 bleeder.
This $5 fix is MUCH better than removing the transmission :)
How many miles should this be changed?
If you plan on keeping the car a long time, every 3-4 years.
How has the Motul 600 been treating you since the change? :)
Hey Yol,
Well, it was fine until last Monday, when my CSC failed :(
I really wanted to make an episode on how to replace it, but I had other obligations and had the dealer change it.
In the next few weeks, I will bleed by clutch and use the Motul 600.
The first one lasted 40,000 miles (first owner) and the second one lasted 43,000 miles. I sure hope the new one last much longer.
Motorvate DIY if your csc failed it stuck to the floor correct ? And would not return on its own ? Had your clutch master cylinder also gone out? I finally out dot4 in n resvoiver and it felt soft and I did some reading and thought maybe my cmc isn't bad maybe there's just air in it and before it took 40 pumps to get the clutch to go back to normal after bleeding the nipple and this last time it worked normal just like in your video it came back after 5 pumps and back to normal so I went out for a test drive and it felt really soft but the grab point was still good it didn't seem like it minimized from the last time so 2 days pass and the catch point has gotten smaller and it got so soft that half the whole clutch is nothing no pressure at all
Also there was black residue at the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir so maybe it's the a rubber seal from the cmc? Cmc or air In the line
When my CSC failed, it sprung a leak and brake/clutch fluid leaked out in about 5-6 clutch actuations and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor.
I will do a CSC failure analysis in a future episode.
I have the same car. and when it's on it makes a noise like something scratching but when I press the clutch it stops and when I release it it starts the noise again, what could it be?
I'll put my "instructor hat" on, and answer your question with a question:
What stops spinning when the clutch pedal is pushed in?
Answer:
The input shaft... and when it spins it does make a "whirring" sound.
I don't think you have anything to worry about.
What Size Hose did you use?
The clutch bleeder is fairly small. If I remember correctly I think the tubing had an 1/8" inner diameter.
What size hose??
Talos DOGGOD,
Good question... I think a vinyl or rubber tube with an inner diameter of 1/4" should work well.
what's up, my clutch feel very hard , it's a stage 3 clutch , not sure if changing my clutch fluid will help solve my problems, but my clutch is very dirty
Hey Torvarris Brown,
Generally changing clutch fluid doesn't change the firmness of the clutch pedal, that's determined by how strong the pressure plate spring is.
With an aftermarket clutch they will get stiffer as the clutch friction disk wears.
The stock clutch is self adjusting where the pressure plate has a notched adjuster that compensates for disk wear.
The "dirt" in the clutch really isn't dirt, but tiny particles of rubber from the cups in the master cylinder due to normal wear.
If it bothers you, feel free to change it. BUT be very careful when loosening the bleeder valve on the clutch slave. They are very small and can break easily.
@@MotorvateDIY thank you very much
Anytime :) Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
Hi Motorvate. I did this procedure to flush out my clutch fluid for my 370z but unfortunately now the clutch pedal won't come back up. I sure hope it's not a faulty slave cylinder because I'd have to drop the tranny
Thanks
Hey shaolin224,
If the clutch pedal does not return to the top, there might be air in the system or the slave cylinder is not completely full of clutch fluid. (the pressure plate compresses the concentric slave cylinder and we need to pump it full)
You could open the clutch bleeder (with the reservoir full) and let gravity help to get some of the air out. (if there is any air in the system)
Then, close the bleeder and manually pump the clutch pedal up and down 5-10 times. At this point the clutch pedal should return to the top on its own. Press the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder. Once the flow stops, close the bleeder and repeat a few times.
Good luck and please let me know how you make out.
Motorvate DIY thank you for your support. I will give it a try tonight
Please let me know how you make out.
Motorvate DIY I tried it again multiple times and to no avail. I do remember a few times when i entered the car ,before my bleed procedure, my clutch pedal was halfway down and I'd just pump it and it worked the rest of the week. That happened twice within a 5000 mile time. I thought bleeding it would help remedy it, thinking it was just air...??.
Motorvate DIY Oh and my clutch pedal doesn't spring back with a positive click like your vid and the gravity feed method wasn't working..in other words, nothing was coming out and the reservoir level didn't budge. I even made sure the clevis rod was fully out to make sure adequate suction was working. Should I use a pressurized method from the master to the bleed port?
I just wanna know why my 370z is making squicky noise every time I press the gas pedal to atleast 2,500 rpm and same when I let go of the gas pedal
Hard to say... my guess would be accelerator pedal may have some dirt/debris in the plastic hinge at the bottom on the pedal. Maybe try a silicon spray and see if it stops?
I have 8k miles in my car, so I need to change it or not? The cloth does feel weird and more soft than it was before so I’m concerned hopefully you see this comment!.
I see and reply to all comments :)
Many people never change their clutch fluid, so 8,000 miles or 10-15 years since the last change generally is not a problem.
If your clutch feels soft, there may be some air in the system, so it may be a good idea to bleed it a few times. This should remove the air and introduce new/clean fluid.
@@MotorvateDIY I took it in this morning. And yes it was air now it’s good 😎
Glad all is well :)
Has your slave cylinder ever went out? I see it is a real problem on the VQ37HR engines.
Yes.. twice. Once at 40,000 miles and again at 80,000 miles. If it goes again, I am putting in a JWT HD CSC: www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=564
@@MotorvateDIY Damnnnn.. Nissan really dropped the ball with this one. Have you had the gallery gasket problem?
Is it the same for a 350z
I would think it would be the same, but I haven't bled a clutch on a 350z.
Overall, the steps shown in the video should work to bleed any clutch.
Let me know how it works our for you.
how do you know the clutch fluid needs to be changed?
Hey Block o Butter,
Good question. On most performance cars, the brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years... Since the clutch fluid is brake fluid BUT doesn't have the same exposure to heat, maybe every 4-5 yeas?
As far as I know there isn't defined time of when clutch fluid should be changed.
On the other side, I have seen a 15 year old Honda Civic with frozen solid clutch fluid. It had never been changed and it absorbed so much water, it froze in the cold temps, and required a tow to the shop.
@@MotorvateDIY Gosh. I don't know when the last owner flushed and replaced it. Is there a way to tell? Or do I just blindly pay for a flush because the mileage tells me it's time?
Hey Block o Butter,
Generally, as the fluid ages, it starts to turn darker in colour. New brake fluid is about the same colour as honey.
From what I have seen, most people don't change the brake fluid, clutch fluid or diff oil... I think you can safely assume your clutch fluid is original.
Also as mentioned above, the colour is another hint at how old it is.
If you plan on keeping the car a long time, you might want to change the clutch fluid now, or in the next few years.
If not, then don't worry about it and just go for a nice drive :)
@@MotorvateDIY I see. One more question. I filled my clutch fluid reservoir (the little container in the top right of the engine bay) and noticed it's a little light brownish red. Is viewing the reservoir accurate or do I have to see the color from another source?
A quick look (like what you just did) is all that you need to do.
A++++++
what if the bleeder valve snapped off
Hey Benson West,
If it isn't leaking, the best thing to do is leave it.
Since Nissan/Infiniti don't sell replacement bleeders, the proper fix is to replace the metals pipes that connect to the CSC.
I will try to find out if that can be done without the transmission being removed.
Sorry to hear about your troubles!
Hey Benson West,
Well I double checked, and those pipes can only be replaced with the transmission removed.
If it isn't leaking I wouldn't worry about it. If you wanted you could use a turkey baster and remove most of the old clutch fluid, and pour in new fluid. This is about the best you can do given your situation.
If it is leaking, try to see if you can get an after market bleeder. You will have to use an extractor to get the old one out.
By the way... this same thing happened to me. My lesson learned: don't over tighten it!
@@MotorvateDIY motor, So would you say less than 40 pounds to torque the bleeder now that this has happened to you? Im terrified of snapping mine too lol
(Btw love your vids, i havent commented much but have followed your vids to do maintenance on my own G and the way you film/edit/explain things is impeccable. Ty sir 🍺
Hey Cr4zy Goose,
Whoa... WAIT!!!!
NOT 40 POUNDS OF TORQUE, but 40 INCH-pounds or 3 foot lbs of torque.
I hope you read this in time!
Thanks for the kind words on the videos and thanks for watching :)
can this be done with only one person?
use a brick?
The factory service manual says to use the "pedal pump" method and that requires 2 people.
Some have had luck doing a "gravity bleed" and that would only take one person.
You could always try it and see if it works for you.
Good luck!
See below...
is this a g37 automatic or stick
Hey 300C,
It is a six speed manual transmission. :)
7 speed automatic
CVT DCT 12 speed Alison
I changed my master and slave. Bled most of the air out.. but the car now doesn’t Wana get into 1st gear.. car will roll with clutch in.. so it’s disengaging..
Did you check the clutch master distance between the "clevis and inside of the mounting flange" ?
Maybe pop over to nico club and get the shop manual, then look at the CL section.
It sounds like the clutch is not FULLY releasing, and the new master cylinder may need to be adjusted.
@@MotorvateDIY I’ve adjusted the petal almost to the end of the pushrod. That’s the only way I can get it into gear. If I dial it back towards the firewall I lost the ability to get into any gear. Also thought I had a faulty master so I replaced it and it’s still Giving me the same issue.
For the G37, the clutch rod length should be 133.55 mm / 5.26 in
The shop manual states the range of acceptable adjustment is only 1mm or 0.040" so it is very easy to overshoot or undershoot the proper length.
AND if that is not the proper length, the clutch master bore ports can stay blocked or open when they shouldn't be.
If the cars rolls with the clutch in, it is dragging and not fully releasing.
Some have had good luck using a gravity bleed.
As a guess, the CSC needs all the air out and the rod must be the proper lengh.
@@MotorvateDIY thanks anyway… like I said I’ve played with the petal for hours trying to rid the master of any potential air. The more you back out the rod from the petal the more hydraulic fluid that goes to the slave hence increasing the stroke of the slave piston.. if that doesn’t work then how the helll is a shorter stroke of the master going to help?? That means less fluid and shorter stroke from the slave… you aren’t a mechanic… but you play one on CZcams lol
I understand that you are frustrated and can't figure it out. You might need to take it to a shop.
THATS ABOOT IT.. LOL EASY THERE HOOSIER
HOOSIER??? I'm not a tire...
I think you meant this: czcams.com/video/8Jm4LoOaAWI/video.html
:)
He kept saying 'nipple', 'pump' and 'strokes'. I think this video needs an age disclaimer warning!
That's funny and I hadn't thought of that!
Next time, I'll add a NSFW warning :)
Having an issue where after pumping clutch and releasing the valve no fluid comes out? 🥲 any suggestions?
That's odd... Did the clutch master run dry?
Try a "gravity bleed". This is were you fill the master cylinder and and open the clutch bleeder valve. After a while fluid should drip from it.
Once the fluid start to drip, then you can try to bleed the slave cylinder as shown in this video.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY no didn’t run dry. Clutch also lost all pressure. Will try a gravity bleed now thanks !