I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I realize the video is 12 years old and not perfect quality but I got more useful info from this than the 5 "pro" videos I looked at and in 1/3 the time . Yes the chain is loose but he wasn't cutting anything. No the tune wasn't perfect but it got it running. Thanks it was better than most .
The most important thing about adjusting the idle is that the chain doesn't turn while idling. You first need to adjust the chain to the proper tension before you can do this, because it makes a difference. You want it idling about as high as possible without the chain turning. Your saw is still bogging when you hit the throttle. It should be a lot crisper.
I watched this because I have bought one at Walmart about 13 years ago, I've had to replace the clutch assembly which was worn out and the usual chains and bars. I have easily cut about 20 cord of wood with it, probably about a hundred hours of use on this saw. It runs as great as the day I bought it. I clean the air filter before every use and have not ever touched any of the carb adjustments. I also keep the chain properly adjusted at all times.
without the expense of buying more tools, (thank the E.P.A. for this). If the screws are removed for slotting, screw them all of the way in then back them out 1 1/2 - 2 turns should be good starting point to tune. (the screws are differient so dont mix up). hope this helps someone.
this guy may not have been perfect in everything he did in the video but he was nice enough to show and help some people with some trouble shooting issues...so you should be thanking him for his time and advice insteading of bitching and whinning and finding fault like a bunch of brats...
We got a green 2150 in about 1980, still runs like a top. We got another 2150 at Walmart about 2 years ago, it runs great also. For $135 at Walmart they are the best saw there is, I've cut MANY loads of firewood.
your problems are more likely that you tuned it too lean. unlike rv 2stroke carbs, these are fuel screws. too lean will melt it down under load and cause that hesitation. you get the highest Rev on the high screw and then turn it out a tad, till you just hear a little crackle out of it. then you retune the low screw, which should be a tad rich, if you started there and get the highest idle, and out 1/8 turn. recheck it revs out okay and go cut some wood. it uses the extra fuel under load..... also, make sure it is good and warmed up when you adjust it.
I thank you for the video help. But it seems like everyone making a video these days, makes it on the windiest day there is or with so much background noise you can't hear the narration. This this one.
Thanks for the video and explanations that I could hear. The audio was not good. The explanations of the L and H screw adjustments were great. Didn't know what was the default set was prior o this video. From 1 to 10, 10 being best, I'll go with a 5.
Its running "Fat" and four stroking at the end of the video. Adjust the high screw set as this will control the high RPM issues you are having. Also throw a new e3 plug in there and help to burn that fuel mix as it is running rich.
I have a new Poulan Pro saw which I can't get to run after it finally starts. It will run for about 15 seconds before it quits. I am going to adjust the idle on the saw to see if it will work since the saw seem to be starving for gas. I first have to get the correct screwdrivers for this and my Stihl saws to make the adjustments.
with saw idleing turn (L) screw slowly clockwise when saw starts acting about to stall remember you location then turn screw counter-clockwise, the saw will run better then start to act as it will stall, stop turning the screw, now turn the screw 1/2 the diff. of the two stopping points. reset you Idle screw. Now do the same thing with the (H) screw while at full throtle. when finished reset Idle again, Take the screws out and cut slots in them with dremmel tool and you can adjust your chainsaw
I have the same chain saw and I have took the filter off and drop some gas down the carburetor and the saw starts up it will run and smoke a lot for a minute or two then it dies out and then I have to drop more gas down the carburetor again and it does the same thing what do I need to do to fix it?
so when i pull the rip cord it moves a couple of inches and then stops, hurts the hell out of my hand, out do i correct it to get a smooth pull to get it going?
To adjust the mixture, warm up the engine and adjust the lo mixture for highest RPM'S at idle and hi mixture for highest RPM'S at full-throttle. Then adjust for best setting. Adjust the idle until the chain just stops.
Hello sir ! Very informative video. I've purchased a Poulan 2050 2.0 from someone and replaced fuel lines and primer bulb. The old primer bulb just shattered like glass from sitting in a garage so long. My problem is as follows. I press the primer bulb and it doesn't seem to fill with gasoline no matter how long I press it. Isn't it supposed to be full of fuel to start ? The saw won't start. Could this be an indication there is some blockage in the carb itself ? From what I can make out from various diagrams, fuel first goes thru the carb THEN to the bulb. By the way, no blockages NOR kinks in any line.
jjg210 . I stated all fuel lines were replaced as well as primer bulb. The problem was a clogged carb (the hogh and low idle ports were gummed up). Thanks for the reply though
I have a woodshark and when I let go of the throttle it stops I checked the card screws and there not even screws It's like a nub thing there's no noch for a screwdriver
I have a Poulan wild thing that is new out of the box but sat in my shop in the box two years or longer it starts and will run about a second or two and cut off and not start back. Anyone know what the problem may be?
The saw was new in the box for about two + years. I did get it to run after I let it set for a few days. Just don't know why it would nit start at first! But it will run now I did set the idle screw up about half a round!
Man I can’t believe that I’ll even cut wood with that bar on it it’s not even supposed to have the bar that comes with it supposed to be shorter or 16 or 18 I think it’s 21 that comes on it.
Not to be rude- But some Video and graphic advice might aid You in Your quest to Help others- Sorry, But there is a lot of idle and dark time in there , and some safety issues also-- Yes I know, I'm not a saw expert, ( tho I have 50 ears of Auto Mechanical exp) and am out of line, But read further replies- And Thanks for the Effort to help us.
My left ear is 100% broken and I only have about 40% normal in my right ear. I can hear the guy fine. You complainers need to throw out your $9.99 Walmart speakers and get better quaility
JUNK DO NOT BUY. ran my saw 3 times last year for a total of 4 hours and the crank broke right at the clutch. sent back for warrenty was told it was not covered and can not find any parts.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I realize the video is 12 years old and not perfect quality but I got more useful info from this than the 5 "pro" videos I looked at and in 1/3 the time . Yes the chain is loose but he wasn't cutting anything. No the tune wasn't perfect but it got it running. Thanks it was better than most .
The most important thing about adjusting the idle is that the chain doesn't turn while idling. You first need to adjust the chain to the proper tension before you can do this, because it makes a difference. You want it idling about as high as possible without the chain turning. Your saw is still bogging when you hit the throttle. It should be a lot crisper.
Thank you for adding the amount of in-out turns that you use for a base point. That's very helpful.
I watched this because I have bought one at Walmart about 13 years ago, I've had to replace the clutch assembly which was worn out and the usual chains and bars. I have easily cut about 20 cord of wood with it, probably about a hundred hours of use on this saw. It runs as great as the day I bought it. I clean the air filter before every use and have not ever touched any of the carb adjustments. I also keep the chain properly adjusted at all times.
without the expense of buying more tools, (thank the E.P.A. for this). If the screws are removed for slotting, screw them all of the way in then back them out 1 1/2 - 2 turns should be good starting point to tune. (the screws are differient so dont mix up). hope this helps someone.
this guy may not have been perfect in everything he did in the video but he was nice enough to show and help some people with some trouble shooting issues...so you should be thanking him for his time and advice insteading of bitching and whinning and finding fault like a bunch of brats...
thanks, when i was chopping up bodies i notice my chainsaw ran a bit boggy, i used ur video to tune the carb, now im choppin double the bodies!
We got a green 2150 in about 1980, still runs like a top. We got another 2150 at Walmart about 2 years ago, it runs great also. For $135 at Walmart they are the best saw there is, I've cut MANY loads of firewood.
Pro tip if you can't adjust the chain tension don't mess with the carburetor.
your problems are more likely that you tuned it too lean. unlike rv 2stroke carbs, these are fuel screws. too lean will melt it down under load and cause that hesitation. you get the highest Rev on the high screw and then turn it out a tad, till you just hear a little crackle out of it. then you retune the low screw, which should be a tad rich, if you started there and get the highest idle, and out 1/8 turn. recheck it revs out okay and go cut some wood. it uses the extra fuel under load..... also, make sure it is good and warmed up when you adjust it.
this guy knows what he's talking about , that young man is almost there but not quite ,
I thank you for the video help. But it seems like everyone making a video these days, makes it on the windiest day there is or with so much background noise you can't hear the narration. This this one.
Very dangerous to run with a chain that loose. "Don't try this at home" !!! First thing you should have done was to take the slack out of the chain.
the bar that comes on a wild thing is 18 inches just got my wild thing
I can't watch this video with that chain dangling like that. Ugh
Rob RotenberryLOL, that's the first thing I thought. Pretty loose chain.
Thanks for the video and explanations that I could hear. The audio was not good. The explanations of the L and H screw adjustments were great. Didn't know what was the default set was prior o this video. From 1 to 10, 10 being best, I'll go with a 5.
Its running "Fat" and four stroking at the end of the video. Adjust the high screw set as this will control the high RPM issues you are having. Also throw a new e3 plug in there and help to burn that fuel mix as it is running rich.
Get_Outdoors_Now
I took my screws out and cut slots to use a flat screwdriver
I have a new Poulan Pro saw which I can't get to run after it finally starts. It will run for about 15 seconds before it quits. I am going to adjust the idle on the saw to see if it will work since the saw seem to be starving for gas. I first have to get the correct screwdrivers for this and my Stihl saws to make the adjustments.
with saw idleing turn (L) screw slowly clockwise when saw starts acting about to stall remember you location then turn screw counter-clockwise, the saw will run better then start to act as it will stall, stop turning the screw, now turn the screw 1/2 the diff. of the two stopping points. reset you Idle screw. Now do the same thing with the (H) screw while at full throtle. when finished reset Idle again, Take the screws out and cut slots in them with dremmel tool and you can adjust your chainsaw
Thanks for the great info.
Cool video dude !
I learned a lot from the instructions, even though the video aspect could be better.
I have the same chain saw and I have took the filter off and drop some gas down the carburetor and the saw starts up it will run and smoke a lot for a minute or two then it dies out and then I have to drop more gas down the carburetor again and it does the same thing what do I need to do to fix it?
your runnin a little rich billy
Hi , my poulan chainsaw will idle but when I give it gas it stalls out . Could you tell me what to do ? thanks Ed in Pa.
Great Video, Great Chainsaw for the $$.
so when i pull the rip cord it moves a couple of inches and then stops, hurts the hell out of my hand, out do i correct it to get a smooth pull to get it going?
To adjust the mixture, warm up the engine and adjust the lo mixture for highest RPM'S at idle and hi mixture for highest RPM'S at full-throttle. Then adjust for best setting. Adjust the idle until the chain just stops.
Good Video
Dude your saw is still way off its not running to its full potential adjust the carb more so it will be really responsive when you tap the gas
thank you.
Hello sir ! Very informative video.
I've purchased a Poulan 2050 2.0 from someone and replaced fuel lines and primer bulb. The old primer bulb just shattered like glass from sitting in a garage so long.
My problem is as follows. I press the primer bulb and it doesn't seem to fill with gasoline no matter how long I press it. Isn't it supposed to be full of fuel to start ? The saw won't start. Could this be an indication there is some blockage in the carb itself ? From what I can make out from various diagrams, fuel first goes thru the carb THEN to the bulb. By the way, no blockages NOR kinks in any line.
Levkin check the fuel lines. You might find that the are rotted out.
jjg210 . I stated all fuel lines were replaced as well as primer bulb. The problem was a clogged carb (the hogh and low idle ports were gummed up). Thanks for the reply though
I have a woodshark and when I let go of the throttle it stops I checked the card screws and there not even screws It's like a nub thing there's no noch for a screwdriver
Thanks kid.
If the dam audio was right and you could hear what he's talking about this video would be great! thanks
would u have a muffler for one of these things for pretty cheap
where did you get that tool? i need one for husqy
I don't want to see the sprocket. might help to take the brake off also !!!
OMG, that chain is WAY loose .. dangerous!
hi how do u remove the sproket
What's the spark plug gap supposed to be on a wild thing??
.030
.025
I have a Poulan wild thing that is new out of the box but sat in my shop in the box two years or longer it starts and will run about a second or two and cut off and not start back. Anyone know what the problem may be?
bad diaphgram
Was Fuel in it that length of time? If No turn the idle screw out , worth a try- Sound s like a fuel circuit problem , hope it is not.
The saw was new in the box for about two + years. I did get it to run after I let it set for a few days. Just don't know why it would nit start at first! But it will run now I did set the idle screw up about half a round!
thanks what i need to know
mmmmkay i need a gas cap for a craftsman chainsaw its the exact same thing that is on this saw
Man I can’t believe that I’ll even cut wood with that bar on it it’s not even supposed to have the bar that comes with it supposed to be shorter or 16 or 18 I think it’s 21 that comes on it.
Thanks The wildthing 2375 LE came originally with a 18" bar and a y62 low profile chain. FYI
Will you sell me the fan housing with the recoil spring for 10? I really need it.
Tighten your chain Johnnie...
Not to be rude- But some Video and graphic advice might aid You in Your quest to Help others- Sorry, But there is a lot of idle and dark time in there , and some safety issues also-- Yes I know, I'm not a saw expert, ( tho I have 50 ears of Auto Mechanical exp) and am out of line, But read further replies- And Thanks for the Effort to help us.
hey man i need a poulan wood shark model 1975 can you send me one please id apricciate it man please n thankyou
How to fix a Poulan = 1 Gallon of gas and a Match. Then go get a Stihl
I did less than a year later. Great advise!
OK, When you do this.....TAKE THE CHAIN OFF THE SAW.
I was talking about this particular guy NOT HURTING HIMSELF.
WYOMINGWOODTURNER You don't know how to fix a chainsaw! You set the mixture with the chain on!
@audiocable dude thats wrong
Clean the air filter and no need to tune
it looks like your not quite sure how to adjust a carburetor
but making a video on how to do it
Sir your volume is to low saw and other sounds are ok.
Fuck those junk things man.
I basically don’t know why anyone would use the word basically because it basically does not mean anything. It is basically just a waste of time .
My left ear is 100% broken and I only have about 40% normal in my right ear. I can hear the guy fine. You complainers need to throw out your $9.99 Walmart speakers and get better quaility
OH yah starts really easy,,lol
Dangerous to run it with a chain that loose
He's a youngster.just saying.
Ty man weird video.
JUNK DO NOT BUY. ran my saw 3 times last year for a total of 4 hours and the crank broke right at the clutch. sent back for warrenty was told it was not covered and can not find any parts.
Lear how to at least titen the chain.
to much bar
Actually, most of you guys need to learn how to spell.
Kind of a crappy tutorial.