How to Hang Drywall to Avoid Cracks Around Doors
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- čas přidán 4. 12. 2013
- 2 Tips lay within this video. The first one shows how to hang full sheets around doors which allows ease for the person hanging it and for the person mudding it. It will also be easier to hang your door down the road and will prevent cracks. The other tip is always good when drywalling the lower half of the door or an outside corner.
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Quick tip, exactly what I searched for. I kmew to not have a joint at corner of opening, I now know it's ok to have a joint at stud above door. Thanks for the no nonsense info.
Excellent advice. Pro tip! Thanks.
Buddy Just put full sheet over the whole door and cut out around frame that is the way we do it in Aus quicker and no joints over door or window less mud and stopping involved
not only are you telling him the right way to do it the way he's doing it is going to leave a crack as the door opens and closes over time that cracks always going to end up you never have any joints anywhere near a door... you hang your sheet across your doorway going to your whatever studs they land on everything should be on 8 footer so you landed on 8 footers and you keep yourself at least 16 inches away from the door on either side with your sheet and you cut your opening and guess what You're never going to have a problem no matter how many times you bang that door of having a crack on a seam above the door not 2 years not 20 years later I'm looking at many houses that have been done with cracks across the seams and that's why they did it following his dumbass rule it also wastes a lot of material that way
amen brother
heres another harry homeowner who hung 5 sheets and gonna give advice how to hang
Buddy but why do you guys hang drywall vertically in Aus more linear footage of seams more mudding wasted materials more cutting and measuring look I can talk like you buddy
It's also a lot faster and easier to cut the door opening out one corner or half at a time.
@@td5387This video is demonstrating what to do when the drywall ends around the door. He's saying use the full sheet and cut out the door opening instead of stopping at the jack stud and turning it into a jigsaw puzzle. Duh. That's not wasteful.
Great tips for newbies. Thanks
at the company i work at we call it back cutting when we are able to cut it off with a knife. we also do that with the 2 boards you show for the top part of the door. we use a drywall saw and cut the shortest distance and then use a razor knife and back cut the longest distance.
Thank you. I remember there was something to do like this. Glad I looked it up. During COVID quarantine the wife has me finishing the drywall down to the basement and the last piece is around and above the door going up. I’m ready now! Thanks!
Your welcome! Don’t forget to check out my new mud and tape series. It’s geared toward beginners.
Great video. Thanks!
Hey I'm Scott just seen your video I I'm a dry liner and I use the same method as you fast and easy nice video my friend
Awesome Video Tutorial, this weekend going to hang drywall and this was one of my search questions that have been answered. Thank you!!
You're welcome. Let me know how it goes.
I’m a DYI and this vid is spot on. Excellent work. Answered my question perfectly. Thank you!! Thumbs up.
You’re welcome ! All the best on your DIY adventures
thankyou so much
I'm doing drywall in a bathroom. I am now at the point of drywalling around the door frame, but It is in the corner of the wall it literally has one stud before it is the door frame opening. How should I do this. Put a vertical piece and hang around the whole door? Do you drywall the door frame also?
Smart way to put on drywall！
For some reason here in Latvia the code is to hang drywall along the studs, not across (only in walls), but having no joints in corners of doors and windows and other stuff is kind of something you learn on day one.
Oh I think I know part of the answer, drywall is 120 cm in width standard and ceilings are 250-ish and higher, so you'd have to add a narrow strip. But I mean, there are ways around that too.
You would be surprised how many people just add pieces around Windows and doors rather than cutting it out of a full sheet.
I am insulating and putting up drywall in a poorly insulated garage and I came upon a diagonal brace. Is it necessary or can I remove it? If I can't how should I go about insulating to maintain best R value. I have already use "Great stuff" foam in every cavity and have begun to install insulation and choose to lap the flaps on the face of the 2x4. I can't do that where this diagonal brace is because the brace is on the inner side of the framing. Thanks for your help!
I would probably have to see a picture because i'm not clear on the insulating method. kody@uptokode.com is my email. As for the brace it all depends on what is on the exterior side of the studs. If it's plywood then you shouldn't need a 45 degree brace. If it's only horizontal boards that are in strips then keep the 45 brace intact. Hope that helps. If still not sure let me know.
No problem! Let us know if there's any other questions we can answer.
Thanks for sharing. I would hang them straight/vertical, instead of across on the long side. You will have a gap, that is weak between the studs, if you hang them horisontal. In Norway (Scandinavia) we never hang like that. Just vertical, since normal hight of drywalls are 240 cm / 8 feet, and ceilings are 220-240, and it makes more sense to hang them vertical.
Logically that makes PERFECT sense. BUT the trades here in the U.S. are slow learners, and it is all about cranking out as many projects as quickly as possible. Mudders and tapers don't want to have to get up on a ladder to have to mud and tape. They want everything at working height.
@@youdagoob Understand, but you still have to get up the ladder, to add tape and mudd in the corner between wall and ceiling.
The reason they are hung horizontal is to avoid an 8 feet long seam.
You don't necessarily avoid the seam with hanging horizontally... An 8' sheet will have an 8' seam...
Correct. But can you tell me I still get the cracking ( diagonally) Anything to do with fasteners ??
There must be some settling in the structure somewhere. No other reason than that.
I've been hanging board 33 years straight longer then humanly possible then most people on this planet and I will frame board right over that door way lol
Yes of course. My point was NOT to put nuggets around the top and sides of the door because i see a lot of rookies using small pieces this way. Makes for a tough mud job
The horizontal joints you are showing have no backing in between the studs thus creating a weak areas that can easily be banged up and cracked. Vertical orientation has all connection points and joints resting on a stud.
Don't most building codes not allow seams over door headers?
It`s textbook where I come from. ;p
My ceiling height is just under 8 foot...why can't you drywall 8 foot sheets vertically?
+DeeInTheHouse You certainly can. Just be aware of potential small issues. If a stud is badly crowned there will be spots where the board may be 1/2 on the stud (ideal) and other areas where it won't be. Thus making it tricky to position and adjust the stud so that its in the correct position in relation to the drywall. This really applies to exterior walls if you have vapour barrier because then there is no adjusting. And let's hope that all studs are plumb vertical and also parallel with each other. If so then rock 'n roll!
DeeInTheHouse hanging the driwal horizontal provides more strenth
DeeInTheHouse Hanging the drywall vertically is better and therefor you should do it.
What is you are hanging your drywall horizontally and your door is within that drywall, how do you cut it? In other words, it covers that whole door and over laps by a foot to a foot and a half.
Yes horizontally and you want to basically drywall over your door opening and then cut it out after. You can use a roto-zip or a drywall saw. The point is to avoid joints near the door. I had a friend use pieces around and above his door which meant multiple joints which also means more mudding and taping.
What if my door is already in place?
2 ways. Either way you still want to use a full sheet. One is to measure and pre-cut the drywall and the other is to hang the full sheet and leave it a touch loose. Then roto-zip around the door, then fasten the sheet fully. The roto-zip is more risky unless you have some experience with it.
Ok, thanks
My wall is not a full 8 feet. How should I go about cutting the lower sheet of drywall? It's about 91"
Nice, but the joint right in the door corners isn't the best
whats stopping u from just putting a large sheet across and cut out the door way.!!!
too much waste
zeta reticuli That’s the best way.
NOW you tell me :-)
Any particular reason for you not hanging drywall from bottom to top?
Or is it just personal preference?
Seems like more work to me.
+Gustavo Flores Typical installation is ceiling first and then work from the top down. If you started at the bottom and then went up it makes it a lot harder for your sheets to fit tight. Then you would have to measure and chalk lines from the ceiling so that you wouldn't have to rip the top sheet to a more narrow dimension. Or you bottom sheet might be too low and then you would have big gaps everywhere. Hope that helps.
So now it’s 4 piece inside of 3 🤷♂️
This makes no sense... you have swapped a tiny area that needs backing to a big area that needs backing 🤣
NOO. FULL SHEET OVER DOORS. DOORS SLAM, AND WILL CRACK IF YOU HAVE SEAMS ABOVE. HOUSES SETTLE, THAT LITTLE SEAM WILL EVENTUALLY CRACK