Video

i have that exact problem but the other way around...my lengths match but im off diagonally 2 inches...im lost dont know what to do

These brackets are not available from IKEA Philippines and the requirement for spacers under the granite was never discussed before making the order. Theoretically we could have used any 2 mm spacer, but we decided instead to carve out the 2 mm to make all the standard brackets level with the wood. This gives the granite maximum support on all sides. Since granite in the Philippines is only 20 mm thick, we also added additional galvanized steel supports in the front of each 60 cm wide cabinet, just in case someone decides to sit on the edge of the countertop. These are made from 3/4 inch square tube and can support the weight of one person, unlike the supplied IKEA front brackets.

Is there no footing? Just a pad??

Nice

Good enough for who it’s for

Don't park your car in the garage. Problem solved.

Where you at where theres board on the walls before ceilings? No vapor barrier as well?

Question for you: we're installing an island on tile floor w. infloor heating (slab on grade). What can we use to secure the island to the floor? We're scared of hitting the in-floor with a screw...

no additional labor, more cost though, right?

Multiply run by tread?

What's the fire rating?

Wey nice work! In North Carolina plastic sheeting is not allowed as a moisture barrier anymore.

Thanks for this video. I have double French doors with a gap between them at the bottom third. There's already weather stripping but it's not wide enough. So I'll go through your inspection and try this. I couldn't tell though - do you just loosen the screws to slide the shims in or do you remove completely? Thanks.

Brilliant!

Can you say hockey night in Canada for me…

Good idea to install wire protectors on the plastic stud locations still and be sure to run wires in locations less likely to be penatrated by fasteners....avoid places like baseboard , cabinet or picture height, as the wires won't move out of the way like they would in a hollow wall cavity if a screw or nail hits them.

Watched lots of videos for the best tip and came across yours. has to be the best out there. Ended up fitting like a pro. Thank you for making it so easy and straightforward. 👍

Thanknfir showing how it works

If the wall is under a cut and stack roof there still may be some roof bearing. Check for rafter purlins that kick or post down to that wall. They need to be considered. Also, I would strap the cut ceiling joists across the new beam at every, or every other, joist just in case there is any small amount of future horizontal force in the joists during a snow event (in snow country). Sometimes a cut and stack roof can have areas that are inadvertently using the ceiling system in a way similar to the bottom chord of a truss.

I love videos.

This is the best explanation about this; thank you, thank you God bless you !! 😊

Did anyone hear a female voice in 2:05 or is it just me ?😅

Total garbage. Paint started lifting after 5 years. This from a siding that is supposed to come with a 50 year finish warranty. Total joke

Use the good stuff - Quality from Germany 😁👍

Have you tried the Kerdi Foam board? Much easier to use than the kerdi membrane that you have to attach to the wall with mastic.

Do it properly.... in brick.

I have no idea what a turnbuckle in this context is and I cant see the post. LOL What is going on?

“Incoming call” *scam likely*

Thanks for showing the consistency

iCFs were super appealing when I first heard about them. After talking to a few people who used them and doing some research on my own, I’m kind of torn. They are pretty simple to work with and if you’re experience with concrete, you’re really fast. And there is basically no easier way to get a consistently good insulation through you’re building enclosure. Building with concrete also has the added benefit of being extremely good with noise isolation. Hoover, imho the absolute dealbreaker for me is the material. Styrofoam is insanely flammable on its own so it’s treated with flame retardants to make it usable in construction. Flame retardants are a group of chemicals with dubious health effects I would personally love to avoid in my living spaces as far as I can possibly can.

What is the tape for just below the ceiling?

With a standard wall assembly you have studs, headers, etc. That lumber in the wall is taking up space where you can't have insulation. 2x lumber has a low R value so you also get thermal bridging at each stud location. An R20 (or whatever) wall is not really R20 because of the space in the wall the lumber takes is space insulation can't go, as well as the thermal bridging from the lumber itself. There are framing methods to reduce thermal bridging but they can get complicated to implement correctly. Other than window/door bucks ICF is continuous insulation with no thermal bridging or uninsulated space within the wall.

That looks so great!

NB- Pex is destroyed by uv light-make sure any exposed toilet supplies are covered with something; metal sleeve, etc. Inside cabinets probably safe though.

What kind of treated wood did you use.

Great video! Where can I find those shims?

How about some videos about icf pitched roofs

I see conflicting instructions on this... most install the top drip cap to go over the ledger board but under the decking boards. This drip cap looks like it will end up on top of the deck surface. I don't even know what to believe any more

Nice, but the joint right in the door corners isn't the best

Lol

If it wasn’t for the fiberglass insulation I’d say you’re doing a great job. You really need to get on board with closed cell spray foam up there in your cold climate.

Any wood structure with a poly vapor barrier is severely compromised the second you need outlets in an exterior wall or lighting in the lid. And how do you hang that poly? Well you start by poking it full of hole to staple it up, finished by poking it full of holes to hang the sheetrock. The one and only way to have a home that doesn’t have a compromised vapor barrier is to use closed cell spray foam insulation in the walls and on the roof. And you should be using that in the attics of your ICF houses as well. Air leakage is the single biggest driver of moisture into the walls and attics and with spray foam insulation air leakage doesn’t exist.

It would be so easy if you Americans embraced metric measurements.

You could also hire professional drywallers

Kody Horvey, This video is fantastic! I liked it a lot!

In your ICF vs 2x6 stick frame cost, are you also factoring in all of the extra air sealing details and costs to get a similar level of performance (blower door test scores)?

Watching this and taking notes, then happily realizing you're in RD County, too.

In the planning ahead department, knowing the block dimensions for corners and full blocks, couldn't the footings be designed to land on the proper 2" increment? This would minimize any funny cuts.

A video made by 'up to Kode' with no discussion about deck code. Did he follow code?