Hobby Cheating 283 - Guide to Non Metallic Steel
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through how to create Non-Metallic steel. This covers all the basics of how to shape the basic colors and gradients of NMM steel and how to make it pop without spending hours. Hope you enjoy!
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I worked on a mini for quite some time and I was really, really disappointend and sad about the result. I was by chance watching this video and thought "its messed up anyways so lets try this fancy NMM thing on the unpainted axe before I quit". And man the result was really great! I even found motivation to repaint some messy parts of the mini and it became my most favorite one ever :)
This video really changed my hobby experience from disappointing to superb!
Now I am looking forward to my next paintjob :)
I watched tons of tutorials about NMM, hours and hours. And then Vince the Wizard comes in and explain it all in 11 minutes. One of the shortest and most useful youtube video I've seen in a long time. Thank you very much Mr. Wizard!
Glad I could help!
The one dislike is the chemist who designed runefang steel.
Checks out. ;)
Triangles! Man I always felt something was wrong but never could put my finger on it. That blew my mind! Thx Vince! Great video =)
Happy to help!
Oh, Hello!
Gil Faizon, charmed I’m sure!
Hello to you sir. :)
Loved the tip on triangles of light, that's a new bit of information for me!
Topic request? Rust over NMM?
Sure, I will add it to the list. I will say Juan Hidalgo just published a video about this. BUt the secret it pretty simple, instead of darker shadows, you put browns and oranges in the shadows and minimize your bands of light.
Little shadowy triangles, thin blue/green filter, glaze into the shadows, uneven levels of shade vs highlight. I hope I remember this when on my next painting project.
Hey, worst case scenario is you just rewatch the video while you're doing that paint job.
You summed it up well. :)
I know this is an older video, but I have been struggling with finding a good example and teaching method to help with my NMM. This has completely changed how I approach weapons and other NMM concepts. Thank you a ton for uploading this video so many years ago.
I have really worried about screwing up NMM because almost every other CZcamsr, even the good ones, seems to make it feel complex. Then I find Vince's video and now I want to got and paint it right now! Thanks Vince, as always, your videos are amazing!
Lists of paints in the staert is a new feat. ? Never saw it before, however greatly appreciated.
Yep, it's newer, I am trying to include it when it matters. :)
Outstanding and succinct couldn't ask for more. Please stay safe.
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
I was asking earlier today on Ninjon’s channel for a bit of a detailed demonstration on how to make softer blends, and this comes up a couple of hours later.
I will assume you heard my plea and are able to work at light speed.
It came through the aether. ;)
@@VinceVenturella they often do... I'm slowly working through your monumental back catalogue and the vids that pop up at certain times are oddly pertinent, either Google is very nearly aware and has me sussed or the aether is particularly conductive at the moment. Cheers 👍
Vince what red are you using, because its looks amazing
He has a vid about go to paints. Not confident but Im guessing it's pyrote red with ivory for highlights. If I'm right I'm going to be very proud of myself
I believe this was Kimera red.
looks bad, looks bad, looks bad, "blink", looks amazing! great vid, thank you
No problem 👍
NMM is something I practice at a lot and improve in a little, but thats okay there's always another mini to paint.
That is the wonderful part of the hobby.
NMM is so intimidating for me as a new painter, you make it seem so simple!!
Glad it was helpful. :)
Prefect simple breakdown. It's a technique I've always been put off from trying because I don't think I understand light placement enough yet. But this is really helpful!! Thanks 😁
Glad it was helpful!
This video changed my life for real
Awesome, happy to help. :)
That's mighty impressive, and honestly? I need to man up and start delving into the NMM thing more. You removing the mojo from it is a vast help to that end!
Glad it was helpful. :)
One of those topics that everyone made videos on, yet remain intimidating for everyone else. Gonna try that triangle thing, thanks for the great tips as always.
Happy to help. :)
Amazing yet simple guide. I liked the thing about triangles, makes sense.
It would be very helpful if you could do a video about various shapes and angles of light for NMM and just quickly block out where shadows and highlights would fall in various situations. For example large flat surfaces perpendicular to the sky like Exalted Deathbringer mini (ruinous axe) was tricky to make it work for me and i had to scrape off and redo the whole axe like 3 or 4 times to get a decent result that sells the effect.
Great suggestion!
Great tips as always, thank u Vince!
My pleasure!
Great vid as always!
Topic request: NMM on curved metal (thinking specifically on a Lord of Change’s staff
So it's basically the same process, keep the light against the shadow, vary the widths, create triangle (or non-rectabular) bands of light. BUt you catch a good light on the outer blade to really focus the attention. Hope that helps.
Hey Vince! thanks for all your videos and instruction. it has really upped my painting techniques. anyway, this may be a dumb question and maybe I am over thinking it, but whats your technique for chain mail? I seem to struggle with making it pop
Great video, thank you Vince!
Glad you liked it!
first time someone makes a difference between NMM and NM steel, thx Vince great vid
Thank you, happy to help. :)
Hey Vince, so I actually have a few random questions on NMM. The first is how to show weathering on NMM (mainly rusting), secondly, how do you do NMM on small metallic parts, like chainsword teeth or belt buckles. I would guess you'd just have like a dot of white and the rest being black since you don't have a lot of room to make a transition. Finally, how would you mix OSL with NMM, specifically OSL from a nontopdown light source.
I guess all of these kind of follow the theme of using NMM in conjunction with other painting techniques, and I feel that most videos on these topics only show one concept in isolation, rather than combining them.
Each of these could be videos on their own. Juan Hidalgo just published a video on weathered NMM, but the key is to put browns and rust in the shadows (as those places aren't reflecting). On small areas, it really depends, but generally, it gets sold through the edge highlight and a light line striking through it. FOr OSL, the answer is the OSL is the light, when you are painting the lighter parts of the reflections, you are painting the ambient light. So if you have OSL, you need to capture that in the light in the color of the OSL.
Hope that all helps.
@@VinceVenturella very much so, thank you.
I think you have the ice yellow listed as Scale 75 at the beginning. It looks like a brand called AK. I've never heard of that one before. I love that ice yellpw.
It is indeed AK interactive, specifically the 3rd gen acrylics series, which came out beginning of last year. Can highly recommend, but if you can't find it, the ice yellow from vallejo is pretty close
Yeah, sorry, I forgot which one I used, but yes, it was AK Interactive, but you can also use Vallejo.
Seredipitous!
I don't have dark sea blue but GW Dark Reaper is probably close enough, a touch greener so I might shift the interference colour to a pale green instead.
Sounds good to me. :)
This is just in time! Currently have Tzeentch Acolyte on table and I was thinking how to do it.
Exactly as planned. I too have some Tzeentchy goodness on the painting table.
Awesome, happy to help. :)
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
This is an excellent video. How does this work when you are painting a sphere, as in a complete sphere shape, not just a semi-sphere? Basically, because there are no edges, how do you block the light and dark out?
For example, how do you place the lights and shadow on an AoS goblin fanatic?
So spheres are nice because they are one of the most straightforward shapes with reflected light.- www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.physicsforums.com%2Fthreads%2Flight-reflection-and-color.317829%2F&psig=AOvVaw3tTIrHr9-pqeirBmvkciX2&ust=1645239815354000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAsQjRxqFwoTCLiV64yiiPYCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD
Great video as always. What colors would you be using for silver. Thanks again for the free masterclasses :)
The colors you see here are my silver color, if you mean a more reflective color, I might just integrate some additional tones for what it's reflecting.
@@VinceVenturella thank you! Will give it a shot!
For light placement would it be helpful to look up real life picture reference? For instance I'm taking a short break from my existing project to try NMM on a golem mini. His shoulders are banded, so I'm going to reference how light hits the Roman Lorica Segmentata armor.
It can never hurt, but of course, understand there is a near infinite permutations and you'll alway have to punch it up through some kind of artistic rendering, but yes, it's valuable.
Might be a dumb question but for a blade-like this where one side is facing the sky, What do you do on the downward side? Do you go into the same detail and just change the tint colour from the sky? Or would you paint it mostly the shadow colour with minor highlights?
Yep, I generally alter the downward facing blade to greens/browns/softer very faint blues to represent the ground/bounce light.
Are there any recommended substitutions for Kimera White? :) Or does it work with basically any white? I want to try some NMM on the current army I'm working on, and I think this effect is super cool and the tutorial is very easy to follow.
Good old Vallejo Model Color white will do just fine.
@@VinceVenturella Nice! Thanks. :)
Hey Vince, I know you love your Vallejo metals for true metallics. I mix their gold and copper and this works for most generic gold applications, but I’m trying to mimic a citadel retributor armour gold. Should I add a very bright silver/aluminum? Or even a bright orange to make it “pop” more?
I also love the vallejo metallics, but for Gold I fall back on scale75, specifically necro gold and citrine as highlight. Dwarven gold is also solid and can be used instead of necro gold for a bit cleaner and brighter gold
@@MrStatistx Thanks! Sometimes I want a metal that’s a little more “fantasy”. I’ll definitely be buying some of those.
a drop or two of orange ink will get you there honestly.
would the triangle approach work on straight bladed swords like those on space marines or would it look akward?
It would work fine, you would do this on the blade, the flat of the blade would be darkened.
Thanks so much for this
No problem :)
Could you possibly do a review of the golden(the brand) high flow colors?
They are definitely something I want to grab at some point. :)
How another gem video thank you sir stay safe
You bet :)
Quick question how do you do the part of the blade facing down?
You can do basically the same thing, you can lower the values slightly if you want to be a little more generic, or shift the tones to reflect more bounce lights (more blue) or earth tones from the ground (more brown).
For the underside I assume you would use browns and grays instead of the blue?
You could still have a little blue in there, just to capture the blade, but my interference color would be the brown (or green or whatever my ground color was).
Nice one! Which skaven model is that?
@@sebastianmarrero8861 got it. Thank you
Actually, it's the Deathmaster illusion thing from Silver tower, but with a big halberd from a claw lord (though he does look much like the underworlds guy). :)
Oh my, that RED, oooooooooooh
This was a fun project for sure. :)
How come there is no sheen on the steel blade. When sharpening the blade is polished
THe blade itself has a sheen, or do you mean the side flat of the halberd?
@@VinceVenturella the edge has gloss, the sides semi gloss. The depends on what it would be in real life
The only exception i I think of is rust which. Or an old blade is taking care of
Cutting edge
Hey Vince, any chance of getting a hobby cheating for stone weapons?
I'll add it to the list.
Thanks Sir for sharing, very useful tutorial! What brush are you using? Looks like it has a very long tip. Cheers!
Monument Bomb Wick Sable Igniter.
Good guide, however when learning nmm its much easier to learn using oils than acrylics.
It's certainly easier to blend it. That being said, I know a lot of folks aren't comfortable with oils.
I can't get it... Don't know what I do wrong 🤷🏼♂️
I'm commenting!
I'm responding. :)
👍🏻👍🏻
:)
Man I know everyone likes to do non-metallic metal but I don't get it I may never win a painting contest because I don't do my metallic metals and that's what all judges look for but I just don't get it
If all the judges are just looking for NMM, they are pretty shitty judges. TMM can look just as good if not better. Watch Vinces video on TMM with NMM shading.
@@XTr3m3b4sh thanks man sorry for being rude about this but that was the biggest thing a lot of Pro painters we're doing when I was coming up will talking about non-metallic metal non-metallic metal non-metallic metal and I just don't get it my father taught me something a long time ago work smarter not harder
@@ericdeutsch6707 Different strokes for different folks: I think that painting NMM (with oil) is easier than making TMM look good, unless it's in a weathering-heavy style.
I used to feel similarly though, when I was trying it with acrylics, since it's a ton of time spent with glazing.
@@ericdeutsch6707 I think the takeaway is the technique. You can do this with metallics and get better looking metallics. That's how I'll be using it.
Yeah, it's certainly not necessary for painting contests, but it is nice, because you have better control over the color and lights. I enjoy it because of the look and the challenge. :)