The best bike locks - for convenience and ease of use
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- A theory: The best bike lock is the one you are most likely to use. So rather than test locks for strength and theft prevention, I tested the four main types of locks for convenience and ease of use in your everyday urban-bike and bicycle-commuting life.
0:00 Intro
2:44 Folding lock
4:29 U-lock
6:55 Chain lock
8:35 Lightweight/cable lock
10:31 The conclusion: The most convenient type of bike lock is...
But don't worry: I haven't forgotten entirely about security. Rather than test locks for anti-theft properties, I did the research. In this spreadsheet, I've compiled a bunch of lock-testing results into one and determined the top-rated lock in each category: U lock, folding lock, chain lock and lightweight lock. You can check it all out here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
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"Who wants to ride around with a heavy chain around your neck...." Let me open this Rap video in my other tab.
You win the Internet for today.
@@Shifter_Cycling I literally watched this yest :P czcams.com/video/Qwg2JYRDpQs/video.html time to test!
Mr. T
Hah! My first thought too.
those are the same thing obviously
I'm pretty sure for a U-lock, you put the U around your rear wheel AND the seat tube or seat stays. The extra loop is for your front wheel.
This; secure frame and rear wheel with priority, and front wheel second.
That depends on the size of the U-lock. I've got a mini, and it won't fit around frame, tube, and bicycle rack / fencepost / whatever else, all at the same time.
Then again, I've got a cheap-assed bike that isn't worth stealing by anyone with tools, so merely deterring _casual_ theft is more than sufficient. :)
I use a mini u-lock and only secure the rear wheel inside the triangle formed by the seat stays, seat tube, and chain stay to a bike rack. That secures the frame even though the u lock isn’t around the frame because there is no way to take the bike frame with the wheel locked inside unless you slice through the entire wheel(probably the second most expensive thing on the bike and rendering the bike inoperable). You can then use a cable connected to the u-lock to secure the other wheel or a seat. I wouldn’t lock a bike the way he is in the video unless I was only going to be a few minutes but I am sure locking strategies would be a different video.
@@brianwallace1244 you are right. All the respect for all the work he is doing but this video is 90% wrong/weak.U-lock is top 1 and then chain(a good one is very heavy for a cyclist)and then the rest
Yes. Same thing for the foldable lock.
U-lock over top tube. NOOOOOO!
A rough twist of the bike and a cheap U-Lock is toast as the top tube gives a lot of leverage.
Always lock up the rear wheel to the frame and a post, cable goes around front wheel.
Comments like this make me feel grateful bike theft isn't even worse in my city! Thanks for the tips.
Definitely, you want to put the lock with the key hole facing downward if possible, and put it in a position where you make someone with an angle grinder have to bend down awkwardly to cut it.
@@Shifter_Cycling also those foldable locks are notoriously bad. They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup. Same with cable locks, they might be really convenient, but they're also really convenient for thieves, who can cut them open like scissors cutting paper.
Many bike racks can be quickly and quietly cut with a sawz, and the aluminum bike racks take two seconds to do two cuts, so a top tube lock means the bike can be ridden away with the lock still locked.
My recommendation is to use a chain through the rear wheel only, as tight as possible off the ground. A chain going around a frame and a wheel is vulnerable to an angle grinder as the chain can be placed firmly against the frame. That's really hard to do with a chain only through the wheel.
Basically, most bikes are stolen when it rains. Streets empty, noise doesn't carry far at all, police won't get out of their cars, and bike patrols will stay under cover.
Folding and u-locks are all light security, because both are highly vulnerable to small bolt cutters or hydraulic wedges. Even a Kryptonite 14mm ulock is easily cut within seconds with an angle grinder if you can put a foot on it. And if it's a heavy rain you won't even be able to hear that angle grinder.
I personally use a 12mm noose chain, a 7 mm regular chain, and a folding lock, through frame, rear wheel, and frame and rear wheel.
@@ARandomBoat _"They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup"_ -- it would depend on the exact design, but the Abus versions use disc detainer locks, which very few people have the tools, never mind the expertise to pick. I'd say they are the opposite of "super easy to pick". They _are_ vulnerable to an attack at each hinge point; a bolt splitter will be able to eventually pull apart the joint in most cases. But for either picking or breaking, a thief would have to come prepared for that specific type of lock.
For now, they are uncommon enough that there's some "security by obscurity", such that a thief looking for a quick score (and aren't they all?) is going to skip past a bike locked with a folding lock and go on to an easier target.
Regarding your comment at 5:00 about people stealing wheels, when I lived in NYC I had a series of photos about bikes in various stages of “decomposition” due to theft. Some bikes you could create a time lapse of their regression. It would start with the seat, and you could imagine the bike owner telling themselves “well, I can’t bike home without a seat. I’ll go to Modell’s tomorrow and pick up a seat, and then take the bike home.” But then the next day they would arrive and now the bike was missing the seat AND the rear wheel (because the front one was locked with the rest of the bike). And so on
When you lock up with a U-Lock you should try and put it through the rear wheel as well as the frame, this will leave much less space for thieves to get leverage or fit a jack inside.
Also a good tip is to have 2 types of locks. Even if the 2nd lock isn't as strong as the primary lock, it's a good deterrent if it would require a different tool to pick and/or break open to the other, which the theif might not have.
For manual bikes I would reccomend a U-Lock as a primary lock with a folding or armoured cable as a secondary deterrent because it doesn't weigh much.
Personally I have an E-bike so I don't mind carrying a heavy long noose chain around in a pannier as it gives me much more flexibility for locking up, especially when couriering to places that might not have a bike stand; a U-Lock can't go round many types of lamposts and railings.
*D lock
I quite like the Dutch bike approach.
1 the bike itself has a built in lock you can engage in seconds. Good enough to prevent it from being ridden away, but not good enough to prevent it from being tossed in a truck. You can use it to run into a store for a minute, or whatever.
2 - a chain that you run through both wheels and a locking location. Good enough for most purposes.
You can wrap the heavy chain pretty easily around the front fork and ignore it when riding about. Fewer issues that I've ever had with bike lock mounts provided by manufacturers.
You can just wrap the chain lock over the top tube of your bicycle frame. Its easy and becuase its flexible you can roll it asmuch as you need.
I wrap it around my seat post
@@Kanvereb same, i actually find it the most portable lock for this reason
Agree I wrap it under my seat and over the top tube just shaped like and L and it gives no trouble. I actually use two of them 😁
If you live in an area with theft at all, you really should be using two locks of different types (not cable locks...they're totally useless). Folding or chain plus a U-lock is usually a good combo. Usually spending 10% of the cost of the bike is a good rule of thumb.
The most convenient lock for most people is actually a frame lock. They're standard on bikes in the Netherlands, where most of the population commute on a bike. You can still pick up a bike that has a frame lock engaged but you can't ride it and they're hard enough to cut because their location and proximity to the wheel makes them awkward to cut. Combining a frame lock which you use when your bicycle is in your line of sight and any of these locks you mention locking the bike to something solid when you have to leave it somewhere is likely to be highly convenient and keep your bike modestly secure.
Plus at least some of the frame locks have a slot for a chain/cable attachment that secures the locked wheel bike to a stand or something. That's what I use on my city bike (it's dutch made and it came with the frame lock, I just bought a compatible chain attachment I always keep in my panniers (simple ones that also don't leave the bike)). If I plan to get away from the bike for a longer time, I take additional heavier chain lock from my other, bike (I keep one of it's spare keys on the key in the frame lock of the city bike for convenience).
In the Netherlands, most people don't have a giant truck or SUV at the ready. Those are common and have only become more common in N. America over the past 10+ years as dealerships and manufacturers push them more, offer fewer models of cars, because the trucks and SUV's...wait for it...make them more money.
Right now, where some people might want a few dollars here and there to help fuel up that truck or SUV, might pick up your nice secure frame-locked bike and make some money on it. Even if it's only $100 for a bike that's worth $400.
Have you seen our lock yet? curious what you think- it's sort of a combination between a frame lock and a folding lock.
czcams.com/video/bkroiEZ9u58/video.html
@@lobsterlock The one that LPL helped you to improve! I'd get one but my bicycle has no bottle cage mount.
In the hood we place the U-lock across rear wheel and frame, and throw a chain around the front wheel, and frame on the pole or bicycle parking …. I can tell this guy lives in a nice area lol
I've watched a lot of these videos from others. I have to say that rather than wasting a huge amount of time showing us every model of every manufacturer and giving us a history of bike locking. You did what you promised after a brief and to the point introduction. That puts you head and shoulders above others. Good work.
Hi from Ilkeston, UK. Looking forward to this - I’ve just converted to a Dutch lock on my old classic .
I have a Dutch lock on my old Dutch bike and it's brilliant. More security through obscurity, not many bikes here in Manchester have them. Mine has a cable attachment but as the bike weighs about 25kg its not going to be easy to run off carrying it.
I thought the Dutch lock was no lock at all 👍
From the Netherlands here, I'm using two different styles of locks, on my sportier bikes I use an Abus nylon braid covered chain, but this is a bike I won't leave anywhere for very long, this is just for going in to a shop for a minute. My city bike has a Dutch lock, with a cable/chain attachment. This is definitely by far the best lock for anti theft and convenience. I have used U-locks in the past, but never really jived with them. The cables are convenient, but a good quality little pair of Knipex wire cutter pliers will cut through these in like four or five 'bites'...
If you can, it’s best to lock up your back wheel along with your frame.
The priority goes: frame, back wheel, then front wheel. That’s ordered by value.
1
I agree that the folding lock is the best compromise for day to day use with a moderately priced bike. The ease of carrying them on the frame is a definite winner,
The first rule in Netherland is to have two locks. One locks your bike to something solid, the other locks the wheels to the bike.
I use two levels of protection. One level is a 30 year old Schwinn cable lock. It's an old school padlock with a laminated shell. Very tough.
The other level is a cheap department store bike in unwantable condition. Nobody wants my bike and it's too much trouble to break the lock.
Even I don't want my bike. I''m replacing it with something better, but in an oddball configuration nobody would want to steal. And I'm getting a U-lock to go with the cable lock.
I have had my bike stolen once and I was using a U lock with a cable, supposedly secure. Since then I haven't bothered with heavy or inconvinient locks like that, I use a short cable lock that lives wrapped around my top tube. I try to lock my bike up in places where a thief would likely be caught on camera or somewhere that has a constant flow of foot traffic so that someone stealing my bike might be noticed. I also will only leave it in one spot for about an hour. If I need to lock up my bike for longer I will go to a secure storage shed of some kind. I see a lock as simply preventing a passerby from running away with my bike
The best way to lock a bike with a U-lock is to lock the rear wheel through the triangle of the seat tube, the seat stays and the chain stays. This allows the most flexibility. If it is possible you can put the lock through both the seat tube and the rear wheel. The front wheel can be secured by removing it and locking with the U-lock along with the rear wheel. Another option would be to use a cable to secure the front wheel with the U-lock. I use the cable to secure my front wheel so I don't have to deal with removing and replacing the front wheel.
*I love the **Latest.Bike** I use it when going camping. It folds up so easy and isn’t heavy at all. Rides so smooth. I love my bike!*
If you attach a big enough clock to a bike chain around your neck, us 80's kids will get the reference. Just sayin'
There is absolutely nothing better than the dutch style wheel + chain lock when it comes to convenience.
Personally I love chain locks, I find them very safe and easy to use. Last few years however I've been using such an old bike that nobody would ever steal it so a cable lock is enough 😅
a dumpy bike with little resale value is the best deterrent. if you know how to work on bikes it can still be a good ride. i never lock mine, just wrap a padlocked curly cable around it and a stationary object and back through itself so it looks locked at a glance in case someone walking might be tempted by an unlocked bike to make their walk go faster . quick and easy, has worked for me so far
Went for option 5 myself, Dutch frame lock with plug-in chain. Meets the requirements for bike insurance, extremely easy. Can't be accidentally left at home.
I also use the folding lock. It is the most universal - almost as easy to set up and transport like cable lock, lighter than U-lock or chain, gives a similar level of security as average quality chain, it's much more flexible then U-lock and is always at a bike. Not the best on any of these catgories but it's the best on avarage.
I live in a country with high crime rates (3rd highest in the world, theft of personal property being most common form of theft)😓. People are regularly mugged on the streets for their phones, I've even had runner friends having to hand over their running shoes in street muggings😳.
There are two rules about bike security I'd share. First, spend at least 10% of bike value on security. Second, when it comes to locks use multiple.
For QUICK stops to a cafe I use a standard cable lock as it is both the most convenient and easy to use (but with that comes most risk). I often cycle alone so I don't have a buddy to watch my bike when I go into a shop. But my full bike security looks like this: cable lock, D lock and cable, folding lock, rotor locks (f+r), bike alarm and GPS tracking. (10% of bike value). I don't have a chain because I never leave my bike unattended for extended periods of time. I suppose if I were regularly stopping at a specific bike stand I would just chain the stand and leave the chain there for everyday use🤷♀️
Buy once, cry once! You can always move your security every time you upgrade your bike.
When I was doing research at a university library, I simply left a heavy chain and lock there. It beat carrying it back and forth each day. Best of all was when I worked at a hospital. It provided a fenced in area with a camera moitoring the entrance. All bikers needed to do was ask for a key.
Wanted to let you know that I’ve learned so much about bikes from your channel. It’s excellent on so many levels. Thank you!
Just a technical video tip_ when discussing a new product and how to use it, use close up shots . This will help your audience see exactly what your doing in better detail .cheers.
ik at this point this video is a little older compared to your newer ones, but i've been watching some of your older videos and man has your presentation and quality gone up. Love to see. Keep up the damn good work!
I'm with you on the folding lock convenience; I have one mounted to my folding bike (Abus Bordo 6100 Combo type) and thus never forget a lock or key whenever I take it somewhere. It is kinda awkward though, and like you said doesn't always easily work with every place one can lock up at.
My commuter / daily driver actually has a cable lock - one of the Abus "Tresorflex", so-called "armored" cables. Basically has what amounts to a goose-neck lamp shell around the cables to protect them a bit more. I'm in a low bike theft area so it works. As a parallel for it I have one of those wearable Hiplock chain locks, but I don't always bring it with me since the cable seems to be enough - a habit I need to get back into I think.
I have an Abus Granit 540 U-lock as well but I rarely use it since it's a key lock and I'm always mildly paranoid I'll drop my key somewhere.
4:12 With that lock on that rack, I'd run it through the front wheel and down tube.
I use a U-lock and a couple Ottolocks on my commuter. U-lock goes through the frame (and front wheel if I can reach it), one Ottolock goes around frame and back wheel, and the other goes around the frame and front wheel. Then I use the Ottolocks when I have to go ride to lunch with one securing the frame and back wheel to the rack and the other the front wheel and frame. The Ottolocks are not the most secure locks but are perfect and convenient for a quick stop. They roll up nice and small and can fit in your pocket if needed. Sometimes I try and weave the locks through the pedal, chainring, or rear rack if it allows, just to make it more inconvenient for the thief. But if they really want it, they'll be able to take it. Keep an eye on it when possible.
5:30 Again, I'd wrap the U-lock around the down tube and wheel.
7:15 It's important to try and fill the space of the lock and leave no slack, it just gives them less to work with. If you have a rack, carry it on your rack.
Gotta add cafe/frame locks
A few things to mention:
U-lock can be put around the rear triangle of the frame through the rear wheel and to the bike park. So it would serve as an extra axle and prevent thief from getting a rear wheel.
There are security-focused QR mechanisms that require you to turn your bike upside down or need a key to unlock.
Chains are great but keep in mind they will be less sturdy then the Ulock of the same weight. They are thinner or they are heavier then a ulock of the same length even, its just the way links are.
I personally run U-lock + folding lock for my front wheel (it used to be my main one but I got tired of worries). I got 2 cuts (scratches actually) from a bolt cutter on a ULock, so it paid off already.
Thank you for this video and the spreadsheet!
I use a chain lock because is mor flexible and I can use it in different structures. I use it as belt for transportation and lets me know if I'm gaining weight
The chain lock was an absolute necessity for me when I was living in the rural South; very few bike racks around and I often had to find highly creative parking spots that would not have been possible with a u-lock. I've transitioned away now that I thankfully do have better lock-up options everywhere I go. This is definitely a key factor here.
Great vid, thanks. As for transporting chain and cable locks, a bungee on the rear rack will do the job. I have a 3' chain lock, but that sucker weighs a pound per foot, and around here 3' isn't really long enough, so I use a cable lock. It deters opportunistic thieves, the most common kind, and I don't usually leave it that long. Also, every time I lock it, I understand that if a pro *really* wants my bike, he's going to get it, doesn't matter what lock is on it. Fortunately my bike, while awesome, isn't the latest and greatest, so pros won't be interested.
U lock and cable in me backpack, I live in Los Angeles so I never forget to lock it. 🤣
I've been using a U-lock with a cable for a while now, and I find that it's really not too bad after you get used to locking and unlocking your bike. I no longer use the little velcro strap, and just sort of weave/loop the cable through the lock. It now takes significantly less time to undo the cable to lock my bike, and then get it done back up after I unlock it. I also appreciate the added versatility of the cable. There have been multiple situations where my U-lock couldn't reach the rack, but the cable could.
Great insight. Thanks for sharing.
I've never had a problem wrapping chain locks around the frame, though I'll say double sided velcro helps a ton in keeping them from rattling. I'm a bit disappointed that there were no alarmed locks used in this video as they're the best deterrent in my opinion.
My locking system is tiered depending on where I am (how dangerous the place is generally) and how long I'll be away from the bike. Level 1 is a simple cable lock (safe neighbourhood /
I've been using a chain lock the same way for over 3 years now. Though I've recently revealed that it managed to erase a little paint off my bike somehow XD
Does an alarmed lock really be the best deterrent? from personal experience when the same car/ scooter/ moped with an alarm goes off for the umpteenth time in a week, or god forbid on a daily occurence, people start ignoring it.
Not long ago I got a U-lock with cable at a local bike shop. It mounted to the bike using a molded plastic mount. After a few weeks, the mount had developed a crack and broke and the the lock fell off the bike mid-ride. I was able to return the lock to the bike shop and exchanged it for a folding lock. I have to agree about the convenience of the folding lock. The only thing is that it rattles a bit in its mount while riding but other than that I really like it.
I solved the rattling issue but lining the holder with a thin piece of Ethafoam (the sheet foam usually found in furniture packaging). The material is super easy to cut to size, usually costs nothing.
@@jasonarthurs3885 Nice idea, I’ll see if I can find that or something like it.
I totally agree about the folding lock. So convenient, especially on a mixte frame like mine. I also have an integrated lock for my back wheel for darting in and out of shops. I don‘t have a 5000 € bike though.
Nice summary. As you say, it's hard to decide what is best, because each lock design has its own pros and cons. I'd like a long heavy-duty chain myself, but it's _heavy_ and hard to carry. U-lock is easier to carry and lighter, but harder to use. My main commuter has an Abus folding lock. Unfortunately, it's not the longest version, so I do still run into problems getting it around the frame, wheel, and rack sometimes. But it's a great all-around option.
For what it's worth, a good option if one finds they can't reliably lock up the wheels with their regular lock, is to install locking skewers on the wheels. I've seen them for regular axles and quick-release, and I'm pretty sure they make them for through-axle style skewers too (getting more common because of the higher weights on e-bikes).
I use an Asus rear wheel lock that is permanently attached to my frame. When I park my bike, I pull a lever, and it blocks the back wheel from moving. For extra security, the model frame lock I have includes a chain that locks into the lever, and a loop on the other end. I can loop that around a bike rack. Then I have another Asus chain lock like the one in the video. I usually use it to lock my front wheel to the rack.
Is three locks overkill? Probably. But that's the idea. Make my bike a huge pain in the ass to steal.
Asus ROG Strix Wheel Lock ($699)
@@linusmushroomtips776 I got that Asus Tuf Gaming lock ($659)
@@coconut7 Damn, you should have saved some money by going with the Asus Prime Wheel Lock ($549) or the Asus Phantom Wheel Lock ($399) as they're indistinguishable except for the lack of Fully Programmable Aura Sync® Compatible ARGB™
Ignoring that last item, the best thing about the frame-lock/plug-in-chain system is that is is very tidy. You put the noose around the frame, then just wrap the chain around your seat post or frame, and then plug it in. It makes it super easy to unwind, to go around a pole, then plug in.
And if you want to, you can just use the frame-lock for short stops at small stores.
There is no overkill with locks, as long as it looks to take more effort to steal your bike than the one next to yours, it's a win.
Thanks for your video! Perhaps it's overkill (it's Toronto afterall), but I use all of the locks you'd mentioned except for the folding one: 3 U-locks (one of which secures front wheel to frame) used with 2 looping cables; 1 cable lock that threads through the saddle, pannier rack and post; and 1 chain lock to reinforce as needed. As per your other video, luckily there's a police registry for bikes in Toronto. That was a good video, too, so ta for that 👍
Three U-locks!? Sorry you need to do this to keep your bike safe, but kudos for putting in the work.
This sounds like hell hajabahaga
By far the most convenient lock I have is an ABUS adaptor chain. It's like that chain lock, but instead of having its own lock, it plugs into an ABUS frame lock. Because of how they designed the plug mechanism, it can be locked without any fumbling with keys. When I'm not using it, I just throw it into my basket
That's what I use, different brand but same thing.
Thanks for sharing. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm intrigued.
Thought those were pretty slick; thought about getting one of those for my next bike.
This is actually the best urban lock. You can change how secure you want it with the chain and if you just want to quickly stop at a shop you're done with locking up in fractions of a second
That's pretty much what I have (except some version by AXA), if you use the lock a lot keeping it in your basket makes sense. I prefer to keep my panniers empty and wrap it around the saddle stem instead. That way uhh they can't steal my chain when I just use the frame lock but I often park my bicycle at places where I don't strictly need to use it (at home, at my parents, outside a shop entrance with a busy flow of people, etc). The chain gets used if I park in the city or out of sight outdoors for an extended period of time elsewhere.
The only real downside to it in my opinion is that it just has one cylinder for both locks, two independent locks for a thief to deal with would be harder. But it can't be beaten for convenience while getting a fairly solid way of locking up the bike.
I use a frame lock/chain lock combo. It's quick to use and easy to store, if you have a rear rack with a clamp.
Love your channel! My favourite setup is using 2 Abus high quality U-locks often with an Abus braided cable. I’ve also attached a bike alarm, which screams if they tamper or even touch the bike or locks in any way. 🤪.
I much appreciate your show-and-tell on bicycle locks. You make it very plain how a cyclist would use these locking devices so riders could buy one (or not) with confidence. For me, the best lock is you, the cyclist, that is, your physical presence. I have a chain lock and an electronic horn the beeps loudly if the device's sensor senses my bike is touched or moved. But in addition, I never leave my bike unattended. If I make a cafe stop, I lock it with one or both of my anti-theft accessories, keep my eyes on my city bicycle, and make sure I'm within 5 to 10 seconds of my two-wheeler in case I have to suddenly confront (or chase down) a thief, which is not likely to happen since I’m sitting or standing close by. So, for me I'm always "tethered" to my machine one way or another. If I can't be, I'll take alternate transportation. Some stores will look the other way, if you bring your bike inside. Some of them will openly allow it, especially if you have a nice, clean bike and you are polite/respectful of others. My point is don’t entirely rely on any lock. You wouldn’t leave your dog tied up to a pole outside a restaurant if you couldn't watch your pup the whole time, would you? Sadly, some people would. But I wouldn’t. In certain jurisdictions, there are ordinances regulating such treatment of canines. Maybe such an approach would further reduce bicycle thefts. Looking to the future, here's a crazy thought: maybe one day someone will engineer bicycle wheels that are round when the owner rides the bike and square or octagonal at all other times. There are many variations on this theme. I'm pretty sure thieves would find a way "around" the bumpy wheels 🙂
I just wrap my chain lock a few times below the saddle. Very convenient.
I live in a big city with lots of bike theft. I use a big integrated chain lock around the down tube, front wheel and whatever immovable object the bike is attached to, then a hand-sized U-lock around rear wheel and seat tube, and finally a cable lock around the saddle and frame that never gets unlocked. Attached at the top of the cable lock are the drawstrings of a cheap headphone bag, which I use for storing the chain, after folding the chain into quarters. The bag rests at the front of a low wire basket attached to the rear rack. Actually it rests on the U lock, which is secured to the basket with a flat bungee cord, making the ride as quiet as possible. When riding I like to keep the triangle of the bike frame accessory-free for aesthetic reasons.
I never actually had a U-lock before this year. I always thought about the less flexibility aspect and the problems with mounts to the bike aspect. I only just starting upping it with the bike security this year generally due to much greater utility use. What I've found is that while a decent chain or chain lock gives you more ways to go for how you're going to lock the bike up, when you know the bike racks, and know what to expect, the U-lock can be very straightforward and easy to use. Sometimes less trouble actually. I guess when you really think about the nature of a ten millimeter or around 3/8ths inch chain links, compared to a decent size U-lock with a 16mm shackle, the hassle of cutting them with a power grinder could be more for one or the other depending. One has more steel, but the other can bob around. Both are really good though. The thief is forced to use that to break them and draws attention to himself.
Awesome video!! I was actually looking for bike locks today coincidentally :) I really appreciate your advice and your google doc!
Hope it helps!
My chain is easy to transport - it just sits in the side pocket of one of the rear panniers. One of the great things about being a utility cycle user rather than a "cyclist" is that my old bike isn't worth much (yanked from a skip!) and has lots of carrying capacity.
I appreciate the fast simple demos. The problem is I (and most others) would run that U lock and the other options through the back wheel as well as the frame. Getting that lock around as much of the bike as possible insuring that my bike will be the maximum PITA for a thief. A cable or chain are excellent for those tasks. I'd also point out the classic carry for a chain or cable lock is the seat post.
I use a light combination chain lock and wrap it on the top tube of the bike. If the pole is thin like a parking sign pole, then I will only partially unwrap it and secure it on the pole, otherwise unwrap and then rewrap the lock against the immovable object. The combination lock is convenient because you don’t have to even carry keys, lock on the bike, the key absent is great to making riding access, maybe at the expense of security as a cryptographer can easily crack a 4 digit password, xD. But Tom made a point to not ride a very expensive bike. I have a 2nd hand road bike with down tube shifters that maybe more than a decade ago, hopefully that won’t get stolen. Any reply about my setup will be appreciated.
Combination locks do add an element of convenience, as long as you trust your memory 🤣
@@Shifter_Cycling Can confirm; took my folding bike (with folding lock) out for the first time in months a little while ago and discovered after doing some shopping the combo on it was not at all what I thought it was...
Fortunately I got lucky and something jogged my memory after about 15 minutes of fumbling about.
Meant to add that for packing a U-lock, just tossing it in your backpack is just the simplest and best way in spite of the various mounts out there. I put in in with an 8mm chain lock for a wheel (which used to be my primary lock). When I'm loaded up, the chain lock goes on the horizonal tube, and the U-lock goes on a bottom side, either right side up or down depending. But no matter how much I have in there, no matter how much weight it is, there is always enough room left to place the Krypto in there too. When I carry the heavy orange Krypto chain lock (10mm), again in the pack with a cable and a separate pad lock for the secondary. The same place on the bike frame for hauling it back as for the smaller chain, and the cable can either be strapped to the outside of the pack or just put inside of it, depending.
Good product and appears well made. Easy to use.
I love love love my folding lock--that's definitely what I use most because I feel it gives me ability to lock up to many more types of places than a small U lock (which I used to use exclusively). I do always lock my wheel and frame to the rack, though. It's easy enough to do 90% of the time and worth it. My friend had **both** of his quick release wheels stolen, which is crazy to me. What in the world would someone do with rear wheel gear cog? Thanks for the great content--keep it up :D
I rock two d-locks, small one for one wheel to frame, bigger one where I can usually get through the park, frame and other wheel.
I wound my chain lock around my seat post when not in use. To use I would unwind a length, then run it through the back wheel (and frame rear triangle) the around a post or rack if available. This leaves all of the frame's main triangle for other things like bottle cages, frame bags, etc. This was very convenient, quick and easy.
You could look for a frame lock, which is attached to the frame and locks the rear wheel between the spokes.
Some frame locks has the ability to also plug-in a chain or cable.
Not all of us can have a frame bag, but is super convenient, i can store heave chain in bottom chamber, plus i can store a bunch of other items...i also just bought an additional thick 'cut resistant' cable to work with the chain because the chain is not long enough for some instances...
I use a U lock for commuting in conjunction with my bikes 'cafe' inbuilt wheel lock. If you commute to the same place consider locking the lock to the bike rack so you don't have to transport it 😎
Not a good idea. This give thieves a chance to practice picking, or even impressioning your lock. They then just wait for you to show up.
@@harshbarj Thanks for the heads up 👍
Over the years, I have had attempted and successful thefts of my bike. So I keep going heavier and stronger. Previously, I had a U lock and chain. The lock often would not wrap around something secure. So at work, I had to lock the frame and wrap the cable around a light post. One night,some one cut the cable and took it with the U lock attached, a nice Surly 1x1 . I now use a folding style lock, which is convenient and strong. Whenever possible, I lock the front wheel and frame to something solid. My commuter is a fixed gear so difficult to walk off with or ride if you are not used to it. A lock is a visual deterrent to the opportunist. If someone who knows what there doing wants to steal your bike and has time they will.
Years ago, I had my car stolen from my lane way, driven two hours to Toronto and stripped of parts. I had a chance to see it at the impound. Not a mark on it inside or out. In retrospect I should have kept it and replaced the parts but that is another tale.
I take your point about chain locks being hard to transport because you can't get a good mount. On the flip side, of course, a D-lock is much harder to transport if you *don’t* have a matching mount fixed to your bike.
Personally my city bikes have always had a rack on the back, and that's where the chain lock goes. In a pinch, if I need the rack to transport something else and I don't have a bag, I can always hang the lock on the handlebars (or somewhere else, but I find the handlebars practical for a short trip because it’s so easy!)
PS: The traditional place for a cable lock is around the saddle post ;-)
If you have a small u-lock it actually fits into back pocket of jeans.
I used to ride with one of those "tactical" backpacks and found that an Abus Granit lock hooks through those MOLLE loops really well.
I've only ever used a cable lock, but I live in a smaller town and I don't think bike theft is much of an issue here. Since the cable lock retracts itself, I usually just slide it over the handle bar. With a chain lock, I'd do the same, just twist it once and then slide it on. I ride a BMX though, so the shape of the handle bars keeps it in place. The only thing that might deter me from using a more rigid lock or a shorter lock is that sometimes there are no bike racks, so I have to lock up on something like a tree.
I've been using the u-lock and cable combination since a wheel was stolen. I still don't know why anyone would steal a wheel, but some thieves do. My best guess is quick release wheels are easy to steal and they just steal whatever is easy and worry about use later (someone once stole my headlight mount after I removed the headlight to protect it from thieves, I'm sure having no idea what the mount was, but it was grabbable.). I wrap the cable around the u-lock and strap the whole thing to the rack over the rear wheel. I rarely use the rear rack for anything else, so that gets the lock and cable out of my way. It takes a long time to lock up, but I haven't had a bike or wheel stolen for long time.
Nice video.thank you.
I have on my bike 2 x U Lock's, a Loop which is permanently threaded through my quick release seat (I've seen seat's only stolen from pretty ordinary bikes - possibly just by some hooligans with a sense of humour? 😳) and a combination cable lock.
95%+ of the time I just use one U-Lock in area's I feel pretty secure in like around my local small town.
If I go to a much bigger town with a not so bike safe reputation then I will make a point of using them all.
I realise that if someone REALLY wants my bike and is an experienced or professional thief then nothing I use will stop them, particularly the cable lock and loop.
But it will certainly deter them or encourage them to take the other guys bike instead.
I have seen regularly in bigger towns either single wheels remaining locked in bike racks or the wheels gone and the rest of the frame remaining.
Quick release on a bicycle used regularly about towns or cities are probably more of a security pain in the ass as they are a benefit in other ways.
I never considered carrying these locks and cable's as a major inconvenience. They're really a necessity.
I wrap the cable lock around the crossbar. The loop is permanently threaded through the seat and wrapped around the seat post.
And the 2 U-Locks are locked around the seat post with the heavy locks resting on the carrier behind.
IMO, if you're going to be cheap and only buy a cable lock, save your money and just used a piece of rope and tie a knot in it when you leave your bike. Equally effective (i.e. not at all) and cheaper. When I worked at a bike shop it was so frustrating when someone bought a nice $1000+ commuter bike and then cheap out on the lock (we even gave a discount on accessories when you bought a bike).
I use a a heavy U-lock as my main and a folding lock as my secondary. U-lock for the back wheel to rack, folding locks front wheel to frame and then rack if possible.
Thank you!
08:17
Most rappers: and i took that personally
I wrap my chain around the top and down tube behind the head tube. As the frame opens up it prevents the chain from sliding down.
Thank you for this. I will try this.
All the cable locks sold in my area come with convenient bike attachments and they twist up nicely into them.
Excellent video! Thank you. Thanks as well for the spreadsheet. I use two u locks for long term lockup and I use a folding lock for on the go, quick lock ups. I'm in Toronto, and bike theft is a huge problem here. I stay away from cable locks. Pretty much useless in Toronto.
Two U-locks!? Yikes. Is it a burden to carry them around?
Not to self-promote too much, but a proper lock is only one part of combatting bike theft: czcams.com/video/48V9Xtpgq9I/video.html
@@Shifter_Cycling I use two u-locks in the bike room at the condo. I don't carry them with me on the go. Yes, I watched your other video, it is great. I have also created some bike security content and am aware that bike locks are only a part of the equation.
In Toronto I use a thick cable from kryptonite that's worked well
For me I use a cloth covered chain lock on all my bikes. Very quick to lock and unlock, just long enough to lock my front wheel and frame to a bike rack, and very easy to wrap around my seat post, when I'm riding my bike.
My lock is so easy to use, I am usually unlocked and gone, long before most other cyclists.
Does anyone sell a kevlar covered chain lock? And what is better, a key lock or a combination lock?
Best way to carry a cable lock is to make a neat coil, put the small side through the coil, and then put it through the 2 thin metal bars underneath the seat and click it. No wrapping around the frame, fast and easy, mine doesnt bounce much at all. Very convenient.
I have that same Abus chain, but with the combination lock. My experience with the convenience is different from yours. Most of my bikes have a largish seat bag (like a Carradice) or rack trunk and the chain coils up nicely to fit wherever I can squeeze it in. I've tried U locks in the past and never found the perfect place to carry them on my bikes. I have some cheap and light cable locks for my road bikes, but those are just to prevent a casual grab n' dash if I pop into a convenience store or something.
I use the u lock with a cable. It is definitely a pain to carry but ive been locked up beside other bikes that got stolen but mine was left. So ill take the inconvenience of the lock.
I've got quite the system. Heavy duty u-lock is the main deal. That goes through the rear wheel, around the frame and whatever I'm locking to. I've also hot a cable that I loop through my u-lock and through my front wheel (this is more for deterrence than real security. I know a cable is gonna do jack shit if someone REALLY wants the bike). I've also got a frame lock with integrated chain lock, the same kind you'd find in the Netherlands. That locks the back wheel, and the chain provides another layer of security. At the end of the day if someone really wants my bike they'll still get it, but I'm making them fucking work for it. And if they're gonna go through a u-lock, chain lock, frame lock, and a cable to get it, then they probably need that bike more than me.
I have the same kryptonite lock. All good but good lord that rattling noise when on the mount!
Since my rides are mostly commuting I just leave the ulock at work so I'm not lugging around the extra weight. I also got one that is fairly small and compact for easy transport.
I dont have a ulock (yet) but use a cable lock that I wrap around the seatpost to store, and a home made chain lock. Basically a thick chain with a good padlock wrapped in something to not scratch the paint. Then I added 1 deterrant not mentioned and not visible. An alarm. It has a remote like a car alarm and acts the same, somebody so much as bumps the tire it goes off. I remember 1 woman harmlessly locking her own bike turned around and her foot struck my tire, scared the bejebes out of her. With that I dont need to make my bike unstealable, thats impossible, I just need to make it harder to steal than the bike next to it.
One thing to note on the U-lock is that it is MUCH more difficult to mount if you have a step-through frame (i.e. most women's bikes)) Without being able to cleanly mount it on a bicycle, it is very cumbersome to use.
I there! Love your channel and relax and sincere way to communicate!
One piece of advice in case you get your bike stolen: have photos of distinctive details of the bike and the serial number.
I was living in Calgary. First thing I did there, buy a commuting bike. One month later was stolen from a rack besides Sunnyside station. I recovered the bike 10 hours later thanks to those photos an a "Calgary stolen bike" group in Facebook. Another tip: use social networks for locate your bike!!
I keep my chain lock wrapped around my seatpost. Nice and close to my rear wheel/triangle, which is what I loop it through when locking. If I ever take a trip to a bigger city where I feel like I need it, I have a cable that I loop through my front wheel, but I don't find that necessary where I live.
Dutch lock/horseshoe lock fixed to the frame, clinches the back wheel, with an optional chain attachment.
So called Cafe locks (also called integrated frame locks or dutch lock) are brilliant invention, not very popular apart from some countries in Europe. My family is using them for many years and they are one of the best. Easy to use, small and always attached to bike. They need extra chain or another lock to attach to bike stand but even on their own are very useful.
Also LockPickingLawyer has got some good bike lock reviews. Including picking and destruction. Well worth watching his videos! He uses Kryptonite chain lock.
I Danish family moved into my 'hood years ago and used their wheel locks (or frame locks, as you call them) on their bikes exactly once until they were stolen. I'm afraid in cities like mine, where pickup trucks are ubiquitous, stealing a bike by throwing it into the back of a truck even if the wheel is locked is all-too easy.
The weakness of a Dutch lock is that the bike can still be picked up and carried away, or tossed in the back of a truck. Once that happens, the thief can work on the lock itself at their leisure, with no worries about being interrupted.
@@Shifter_Cycling Agree. That's why Abus for example offers them with a slot for detachable chain used for locking bike to the stand.
Depending on circumstances would use it alone or in combination with another lock like chain or Ulock.
The advantage of Dutch lock is that it is always there, no fuss with storing etc. It is just another layer of defense against thieves.
@@Shifter_Cycling One more thought on the subject. How about having bike that can be taken with you to office or stored easily in small apartments like Brompton, Tern BYB, GoCycle? That's for of theft protection as well.
@@Shifter_Cycling Without the plug-in chain, they are useful for short trips to the diary, or to put outside the glass of a subway. Nothing more. And that is incredibly useful, because most trips are like that.
With the chain, it is good for moderate security. If I'm going to the movies I take my expensive Abus u-lock, and use that with the frame-lock. Tho there no point using the chain when I could also just use the u-lock...
Also chain or u-lock, it offers added flexibility. And that is very important for choosing the right convience for the situation.
my old school Retrospec Beaumont has a mouse trap style rear rack, so I can throw my chain lock under there, and for me that seems like the best compromise between flexibility and toughness
If your lock lacks an extra cable to go around the front wheel, you can detach the front wheel and put it alongside the rear wheel and lock them all up together. it's a little bit of a pain but if you're going to be leaving the bike for an extended period of time totally worth it.
if you DO have the cable, it's worth looping it through your saddle as well as your front wheel. saddles arent super valuable compared to a wheel but theyre very easy to detach if someone wanted to and theyre a lot easier for a thief to throw in a bag and get away inconspicuously rather than taking a whole wheel
In here before it premieres and I'm excited to find out what your conclusion is. My money is on chain lock because well that's what I use and it's just as easy as a cable lock (which I used before), but way more secure and at the same time way more versatile than a U-lock so you dont have to look for a special place to attach it.
Love the versatility of a chain lock, but I personally find them difficult to transport sometimes, especially if they are heavy-duty.
@@Shifter_Cycling Yeah, I see your point. I have to add that I use one that's intergrated with my dutch backwheel lock so I can just quickly wrap it round my frame/seat post, plug it into the lock and go. It's a 5 second job to wrap it or unwrap it and after that so easy to attach to anything.
Even if they have cover, chain lock damaged my bike a lot. I unfortunately noticed it too late. It happened since I wrapped it around the bike frame.
@@Shifter_Cycling I've worn my wife's Kryptonite "Kryptolock" chain lock as a sash before - at 47" in total length it's easy enough.
@@woutervanr I use the same setup on my ebike as well, the regular lock is considered "good enough" for insurance. And the chain to attach it to something is useful, I do recognise that only having to deal with one cylinder is a bit of a vulnerability. Ideally to get the most out of a chain lock and regular lock you'd want a thief to have to deal with two actual locks (not just one cylinder and both are released). I see the specific model of AXA lock around a lot on similar pricy ebikes, so that might make it interesting enough for certain people to learn how to pick it quickly.
But I am already somewhat sloppy at not bothering to use this convenient chain lock, outside the city near the entrance of stores when there are always people present I typically don't bother. If it's at a less busy/visible place for a longer period or the more sketchy areas in the city then I do use it.
Chain lock is super easy to carry, around your seatpost!
I'm pretty happy with my ulock. I don't bother with a cable and just got locking skewers that only let the wheels be removed when it's upside down.
The best place to stash the u-lock is on the rear rack. I usually only have one pannier on the left and my ulock hanging on the right. I keep a bungee cord on there to keep it from bouncing around.
I can only wish there were more bike racks available where I live.. Often I'm stuck locking to a tree or light post, and quite often sign posts (normally not easily just lifted up and over). And on some rare occasions, there's nothing to lock to so all I can do is lock my tires to my frame. So... I have a small circle lock that just does a tire to a frame, and a long cable lock. My bike is also electric, so.. I don't have much space on my frame to secure a lock to when not in use other than my top bar and a little area above the battery. So, it's a cable lock coiled around my top bar, and a small circular cable lock around my seat post through the frame till I also use it. I would use a chain lock, but it would need to be long and heavy to go around a tree...
You'd think of all places Florida would be the most bike friendly, but it's not really. There's not many sidewalks away from the cities, and there's not many good sidewalks in the cities.. There's also very few bike lanes, or bike trails... And... very few places have bike racks than you'd think. Most strip malls have no racks :( Most 7-11's have no bike racks. There's plenty of places, like a gas station I buy my smokes at, that literally have nothing and I'd need to walk blocks to the nearest something for a simple couple of moments purchase inside...
I have many friends down here who used to bike commute but quit because they've been hit by a car more than once and came to the conclusion that it's just too dangerous to bike often around here. I can't say I disagree with them either, but I can't afford a car where I live and work...
So... I think most of us are stuck with what works best for our lives as far as locks and most things are concerned. You can find and recommend the best anything, but often what's best is A. What's available and affordable to you and... B. What's most convenient/practical. Therefore, a video on "the best of classes" is often better than "what's best" for anyone.
I think we all know a solid bar of metal with the best locking mechanism is best. 99% of where I travel to won't allow for that. Also high on the list of what wont work for me is folding locks... Sorry, can't get around the light post and pillar at work and through my frame. A long chain link lock would be my best option, but it would need to be thick and long for that to work.. One day I'll prolly eventually have the spare cash for something like that, but until then... I'm stuck with a long Kryptonite cable with padlock. :(
U-locks go through seat or chain stays and the rear wheel unless the bike rack prevents that. Then either locking skewers of some sort on the front, or a cable or chain through the front wheel. Or two U-locks. All my bikes get a front rack and a handlebar bag, for the lock at minimum and a days supplies.
Lock Picking Lawyer has covered a lot of bike locks from a security POV. The ABUS X lock core seems to be the hardest to pick. He also demonstrates how various locks and shackles can be destroyed, which can be entertaining.
Love your take on urban cycling and your content. Also, regarding the chain lock around your neck... Flava Flav may want to have a word with you...
Use the U lock on the frame, and then pass the cable through the front wheel, then pass the other cable eye through the other eye to lasso the front wheel. You'll have enough cable left over to make a couple wraps around the post, then lock it in the U lock.
With an expensive bike I recommend at least a U-lock, a chain-lock, and a motion alarm together. The more locks the better.
You should be running your lock around your rear tire inside your rear triangle wherever possible. This secures your rear wheel AND your frame at the same time.
True, but getting a piece of the frame in there helps discourage a dumb thief from trying anyway.