Looks great! This is encouraging because we are under contract for a house with carpet in the hallways and living room, and wood in the bedrooms! Good to know a pro can blend those right in!
Now when you have doorways running at angle your walls are not exactly straight how do you get a straight measurement to pull off? I look forward to hear from You bye for new Fellow CZcams Ken
Well, I would set my laser level up and pull a random number off the starting wall. like 16 inches on both ends. Then, I would butt the finish wall and check back to my laser line. If it's off, I will slightly adjust and split the difference. Then, I would snap a line where my laser line is and use it to keep my starting row straight. You can skip the 1st row for now and use scraps clicked in the back and screwed down to hold your 1st row. Then, when you are done with the rest of the floor, you can scribe the starter pieces for a perfect fit. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What about laying new off of existing but the previous installer isn't square. So there is two entry ways to the dining room and it has tie back into eachother. Wanna avoid a transition but ripping down a board in the middle of one entry is gonna stick out. There to far off and don't tie back in together
Are the different products. Is it floating or attached. Feel free to send me some pics to youfloor.net@gmail.com. I will take a look and see if we can come up with a game plan. Thanks for the question
Your floors looks awesome btw. I have a question about how to incorporate mixed variable wood width planks into a older home with 2 inch flooring already in place. Possibly some different shade in color but not necessarily. Just trying to not have to replace and lose all the flooring currently in my home. Thanks for you help in advance.
Not sure what you mean. Im sure if the locking system goes together it would be fine. I would think they would have a different thickness. Is that what you're talking about?
What would you do if you were tying in new 3/4 in hardwood to existing 3/4 hardwood that had been sanded so that the existing is now 9/16 in? What would you do to join/transition them?
It kinda depends on which way it's running but.. If you use a piece of flooring as a transition you can run it through a table saw on end. And set you saw on a slight bevel. Then run it through a few times until one side is real close to 9/16. Then you can still lock them in on the high side. On the low side you may have to glue it because the top was take off the lower floor but the transition we took wood off the bottom. Hope that makes sense. Good luck on your project. Thanks for the question
When you have to reverse and go the opposite direction there's a couple things you can do. You can either buy splines , you could make splines(which is what I do). Or thou can buy the 5/15 dowels at home depot. Whatever you decide to do make sure to glue them in and glue the boards together too. If you don't they can rub together and cause squeaking. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Excellent layout advice. How would you transition from existing oak flooring to new oak flooring that does not match in color and look? I am considering leaving a one inch gap between them and using a 2" wide hardwood T moulding that allows both floors a little room for expansion and contraction.
That is an excellent idea. One tip though if the hardwoods are both standard 3/4 , you can always turn a board sideways in the opening and use a piece of floor as the transition. The tongue and grove will slip in both sides. It makes for a smooth transition and gets rid of any possible toe stumper. The t mold will work fine but a lot of my customers don't want them so thought I would pass along that tip. Excellent question. Thanks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for your advice. In my case the boards are both 0.75" thick but the existing edge board lacks a tongue or groove. The past installer probably expected carpet would be installed. I gather from your suggestion that an expansion gap is not needed and I can abut the groove edge of the new boards to the flat edge of the existing boards. I am not able to picture how your sideways board method works.
not sure why so many videos have the plywood but when hardwood was installed in my new home he placed the paper down on the decking and the hardwood on that there was no plywood. The plywood seems to light the floor and the hardwood to an undesirable level
Not sure if you are making a statement or asking a question . 🤔 But most houses todY are built with plywood as opposed to slanted decking like they did in the old days. If I had to install on slanted decking I would probably put at least some 1/2 plywood down 1st. Then anywhere I don't have paper, I usually apply glue. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the view
Where I live we do post and beam in new construction when the wood floor was installed it was directly to the decking to my remembrance of course withe the paper it came to the right level the added plywood so often referenced I find leads to floor height difference and those ugly transition pieces. I’m not a wood floor installer so can’t give advice but I do find the extra plywood did not look professional hardwood has become so expensive I haven’t seen it installed in quite some time
One of the better instructionals.
Looks great! This is encouraging because we are under contract for a house with carpet in the hallways and living room, and wood in the bedrooms! Good to know a pro can blend those right in!
Right on brother. Good luck with your project
thank you for teaching me about #Splines
You got it brotha. Thanks for the comment
Great video. Very informative. Thx!
Now when you have doorways running at angle your walls are not exactly straight how do you get a straight measurement to pull off? I look forward to hear from You bye for new Fellow CZcams Ken
Well, I would set my laser level up and pull a random number off the starting wall. like 16 inches on both ends. Then, I would butt the finish wall and check back to my laser line. If it's off, I will slightly adjust and split the difference. Then, I would snap a line where my laser line is and use it to keep my starting row straight. You can skip the 1st row for now and use scraps clicked in the back and screwed down to hold your 1st row. Then, when you are done with the rest of the floor, you can scribe the starter pieces for a perfect fit. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Helpful video. Thanks. What type of glue are you using on the floor? It looks like a different type from the wood glue you are using on the splines.
What about laying new off of existing but the previous installer isn't square. So there is two entry ways to the dining room and it has tie back into eachother. Wanna avoid a transition but ripping down a board in the middle of one entry is gonna stick out. There to far off and don't tie back in together
Are the different products. Is it floating or attached. Feel free to send me some pics to youfloor.net@gmail.com. I will take a look and see if we can come up with a game plan. Thanks for the question
Your floors looks awesome btw. I have a question about how to incorporate mixed variable wood width planks into a older home with 2 inch flooring already in place. Possibly some different shade in color but not necessarily. Just trying to not have to replace and lose all the flooring currently in my home. Thanks for you help in advance.
@BH Camp Did you get this figured out or are you still looking for guidance? Sorry for the delay.
Can I add engendered bamboo to solid bamboo ??
Not sure what you mean. Im sure if the locking system goes together it would be fine. I would think they would have a different thickness. Is that what you're talking about?
What would you do if you were tying in new 3/4 in hardwood to existing 3/4 hardwood that had been sanded so that the existing is now 9/16 in?
What would you do to join/transition them?
It kinda depends on which way it's running but.. If you use a piece of flooring as a transition you can run it through a table saw on end. And set you saw on a slight bevel. Then run it through a few times until one side is real close to 9/16. Then you can still lock them in on the high side. On the low side you may have to glue it because the top was take off the lower floor but the transition we took wood off the bottom. Hope that makes sense. Good luck on your project. Thanks for the question
What about reversing installation and grooves??
When you have to reverse and go the opposite direction there's a couple things you can do. You can either buy splines , you could make splines(which is what I do). Or thou can buy the 5/15 dowels at home depot. Whatever you decide to do make sure to glue them in and glue the boards together too. If you don't they can rub together and cause squeaking. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Excellent layout advice. How would you transition from existing oak flooring to new oak flooring that does not match in color and look? I am considering leaving a one inch gap between them and using a 2" wide hardwood T moulding that allows both floors a little room for expansion and contraction.
That is an excellent idea. One tip though if the hardwoods are both standard 3/4 , you can always turn a board sideways in the opening and use a piece of floor as the transition. The tongue and grove will slip in both sides. It makes for a smooth transition and gets rid of any possible toe stumper. The t mold will work fine but a lot of my customers don't want them so thought I would pass along that tip. Excellent question. Thanks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for your advice. In my case the boards are both 0.75" thick but the existing edge board lacks a tongue or groove. The past installer probably expected carpet would be installed. I gather from your suggestion that an expansion gap is not needed and I can abut the groove edge of the new boards to the flat edge of the existing boards. I am not able to picture how your sideways board method works.
I found some examples online. If you would like to pm me on fb. Look up z construction LLC. Send me a message and I'll send you what I have found
not sure why so many videos have the plywood but when hardwood was installed in my new home he placed the paper down on the decking and the hardwood on that there was no plywood. The plywood seems to light the floor and the hardwood to an undesirable level
Not sure if you are making a statement or asking a question . 🤔 But most houses todY are built with plywood as opposed to slanted decking like they did in the old days. If I had to install on slanted decking I would probably put at least some 1/2 plywood down 1st. Then anywhere I don't have paper, I usually apply glue. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the view
Where I live we do post and beam in new construction when the wood floor was installed it was directly to the decking to my remembrance of course withe the paper it came to the right level the added plywood so often referenced I find leads to floor height difference and those ugly transition pieces. I’m not a wood floor installer so can’t give advice but I do find the extra plywood did not look professional hardwood has become so expensive I haven’t seen it installed in quite some time
Is it possible to lace 3.5 wide to 2.25?
There is no way to lace them together, however, you can do one row 3.5 and then the next row 2.25. Let me know if you have any other questions.