DIY How to Install Hardwood Flooring
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2018
- With the help of a professional tool rental and my tips you too can install like a pro! I will show you every trick in the book to get a perfect finish most installers would be jealous of!
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Click this link to see our in depth tutorial for floating floors like vinyl or laminate. Cheers!
czcams.com/video/OJqk2iS_jyQ/video.html
Do you have a video on doing a hardwood to tile transition? I'm considering putting tile in my kitchen, when I re-cabinet it, but transitioning to hardwood for the main room and hallway.
You kept saying "this flooring"... but it's not clear. Exactly what type of flooring did you use? Depth of finish, etc, engineered, etc? Thanks
What kind floor is good for the basement ?
@@Chris-Alia Looks like 3/4 inch by 4 inch oak with random lengths.
Not for nothing or two or to sound any type of wayI have been a member for over a month and have not got any of the perks I was told I would
A lot of video creators use the easiest project (perfect square room and easy cuts). You addressed the hard stuff with detailed explanations. Well done. Thanks
Personally I think the information was poor. Squaring off of existing hardwood hardwood flooring from an existing room through a cased opening like he does is relying that the hardwood in the adjacent room is square to the hallway or room that your flooring. The actual practice by competent installers is to find the center of the room or hallway on each end. Then snap a center line through the room. Then measure to snap a line for your starting row. This technique he is suggesting is never used and extremely negligent. This dude has no idea what he is doing to be truthful
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
then what? you use an ugly Tmold when the doorway seems arent 90 degrees to each other? he did it this way so the transition from one room to the next looks good with no gaps. this is best way to do it in this scenario. if your floors dont sqaure up to each other then your doorway transition will look like crap.@@alexberry4758
@@alexberry4758 thank you
38 minutes of captive information. Totally relative to task in hand and excellent delivery.
Thank you 👌👍
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
Excellent tutorial. Lots of great info. I've done maybe 1500 SF of 3/4 inch hardwood. After a 10 year break I'm gearing up for another massive project. This was a great refresher course.
Thanks Jeff for taking the time to explain how to install hardwood floor. I installed my daughter's bed room with my wife a few years ago. I learned some tricks from this video. Thanks again.
I have watched so many DIY videos on these types of flooring and this by far is the best and most informative video seen. Thanks for the posting.
Always glad to help. Cheers!
Thank you Jeff for showing me how to install a hardwood floor! The prep work took so long, but after getting the rows lined up straight, my floor went in like a dream.
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
What can we say! You’re a blessing!! Thanks for this and every video you’re sharing. I hope we can all pay this kindness forward.
Please keep it up!
I agree
This guys got much longer videos than the other DIY guys but honestly he has a way of hitting on the details that I’m wondering about. Really feels like you could could pause these videos as you’re doing the work and be good even with no experience
I love the solid wood flooring. This is my favorite option if the house can support the investment. Cheers!
I just put in laminate floors in one of my rentals (economics). I agree a natural hardwood is beautiful. Love your channel Jeff, cheers from Michigan
Hardwood is always awesome but not always the most practical choice. Cheers to Michigan.
Don't you have to re-screw the plywood after the demolition?
Ruslan Otarov yes you do. Every hardwood I’ve installed, I remove the existing floor then screw the entire subfloor prior to new install
Really enjoy the way you explain things. 30 years of handyman experience and I learned a couple of new things! Great job.
Love that belly support tilt maneuver to get a square cut on the chop saw. I learn something new every time I watch your show. Great stuff.
Well done! 👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 I re-floored my mother’s home 18 years ago and they still look good! 😉😀
Hardwood can last forever if you keep the house conditioned.
David Vazquez: I suggest you ask your local DIY center for the best advice. It’s been nearly 20 years since I’ve done this.
Amazing tips. Went through some serious headaches on my first flooring job. Thankfully I got through it and a lot of these tips are helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for this video Jeff. You make it all look so easy. I just bought my first home and the carpet in the front room definitely has to go so I was looking over some videos on choosing carpet and I ran across your video on hardwood floors and I might just decide to give that a try.
I’ve watched hundreds of DIY videos and the way that you teach is by far the absolute best! Greatly appreciated!
The best I have ever seen!. I love the fact that you show how to deal with the problem areas. This is a true class and not a show. Thanks a million.
Just trying to show as many tips as possible in a quick video. This way I don't need to make 10 of them. Cheers!
best you have ever seen? amazing the crap a white guy with a power tool can put on the internet and get away with
This is may new favorite DIY channel! Such great explanation of everything, a bit of humor and great camera work!
Thanks Mike, Max and I really appreciate that. Cheers !
Ive watched many of your videos, and I can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and being entertaining. You've help my personal growth in remodeling.
Sir, thank you very much for all the amazing videos. I paid thousands to learn from a contractor and I have to say, you have taught me way more than him and it was free. So thank you, ignore all the trolls and negativity, and have a blessed day.
Will do, glad to help. Cheers!
Great points about cost to install and the longevity of hardwood. Also some good tips. However if you're installing a 100 year, floor, skip the shortcuts and glue, take your time and do it right. Use paper underneath, drill and use finish nails when you can't use the gun and even drill into the face nail and use finish nails at the wall. Start at the closet and measure ever course to get the transition square.
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
Just did a townhouse hardwood floor.
You touched on just about every situation I ran into.
On the very first transition in your video, if you have to transition into, say, existing tile floor, then first run a couple of rows of planks PARALLEL to the transition.
And then you can change direction, and butt up your subsequent planks to the first two parallel rows.
'Sir, what topping would you like on your pizza?' #19:50 'Hmmm, sawdust sounds delicious.' ;) Thanks again, Jeff, for sharing such excellent content!
It was Littles Caesar’s. It likely improved it. 🤣
Great video! I have a house with all orginal wood floor build in 1919 and this will be so helpfully when I remodel it. I'm also working on a home I've owned for a few years and and having to fix a bad contractors work to sell it. Thanks for all your tips and keep more great videos coming. I love watching them.
Hi Matthew, in that age of a house I do recommend the kraft paper between subfloor and hardwood. In those old houses the basement usually has quite a different temp and humidity than the main floor space so managing humidity in you floor is very important.
One of the best videos on hardwood floors that I've seen. You've prepared me for my next project! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
To prevent messing up the tongue and groove, I like to use a scrap piece of my flooring as a tap block. it locks together and protects it from deforming and making an easy fit with the next row.
I second that.
You don’t have to slam the poop out of it a little tap is all you need.
This is hardwood not laminate 🤣
Everytime I am starting a project in my home or in my families home, I'm so nervous! Because I look at one of your videos about what I'm about to do, the way you explain things, your enthusiasm, gives me the motivation and confidence to go ahead and just do it. Currently working on replacing stair treads and landing with hardwood flooring. The staining combination to get the color just right was what has taken me the longest time, up to now.
Thank you, thank you and again I thank you for all of your videos.
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
I usually dislike most youtube flooring installation videos, however, you actually know what you are talking about. Good stuff man.
Thanks, glad to help!
Hey buddy. Great video. Transitions are a pain in the butt. Especially when there is an elevations difference. Example tile to wood after renovation. Tile required 3/4 additional plywood then thinset/hardibacker/then tile. Now you are 3/4 higher than finished floor. I love renovations.
Great video.
Poor tips and tricks. Never square off hardwood from an existing room. That’s relying on the room your adjoining to was installed square to the room or hallway your installing. Every professional will measure and find center of hallway or room and snap a center line then measure off center to first row to ensure that the room your installing is square to the room itself. If you follow this abhorrent information he is peddling for views your hardwood will end up looking like a diagonal herringbone pattern when you reach the end. Also he left no expansion gaps, didn’t undercut and jambs and slip floor under, used PL Premium glue which expands and humps up and will create a buckle in the floor. No spacing on ends which will result in baseboard being pushed and pulled off wall by expansion and contraction. Litterally everything he suggested is negligent and completely wrong. Even a DIY channel would be better to follow, this is like watching an accountant go through Reddit and think he is a master carpenter from reading posts. As a fine home builder I was cringing so hard watching him give completely incompetent info.
There are so many creators on CZcams that give great accurate info, please don’t give this leech views.
@@alexberry4758 oh give it a rest. Speaking as a master carpenter there is nothing square unless I did the rough framing. Wing. A pro can make it all look square. A hack will make a square room look like hell. Which one are you.
@@skiprope536 but.. that’s my whole point. Nothing is square. And to square off flooring relative to another room is negligent. We always find center of the room we are installing. As a professional you can recognize this. Nobody uses a framing square on an adjacent rooms cased opening to determine the placement for a floor.
@@alexberry4758 yes and no. Sometimes you gotta cheat it the sides maybe 75 degrees or more and the other side may float as well. Bottom line that is why I Dona flat threshold with wood I am using and cut the angle to meet the tongue then I under cut the angle to mate with the tounge. You can never tell what is off.
You do great work! There was a reason why I subscribed here when I was drunk. Best of luck!
LOL, that was awesome. Cheers!
Once I start your videos just can't stop watching
Thank you I am redoing my kitchen floor and I have already done my living room and my bedroom and it was very difficult because I did not know the tricks that you have so thank you very much I have learned a lot from your video do more thanks
Hi to HRV, I'm watching you from Croatia and I'm amazed with advises you're sharing with us. I'm building the house and you gave so much confidence to start DIYing by myself. I have technical skills but never tried the work by myself. You're the best!
Thank you for commenting. Cheers to Croatia!
Haha svaki video koje gladam da nesta oko kuce uradim nadem neko nas isto gleda. Stvarno nas narod naj vise raid.
When I don’t hit the staple in far enough, I snip the top off with cutting pliers and drive the rest down with a nail set. Excellent video btw.
Paul Robert the cutters are called dikes
My extension entire wood frame rotted stud plate
How I go About resecure frame or replace
i just take an angle grinder with a thin disk cause im lazy af hate hardwood floor tho they warp to much i use engineered wood nowadays cost more but last waay longer and looks exactly like hardwood and i noticed he didn't use any underlay under the hardwood i wonder why
Yes a spring loaded nail set.
Sometimes it’s Quicker to pull back out with channel locks and re-nail
Great tips to work around awkward situations. You explain things well in a concise and understandable way.
Great, covered a lot of territory in a realistic, easy to absorb fashion and obviously have the experience to back it up. Great job.
Cheers Perry!
I have to say, great video! I've had a night of reading your replies and the comments of others. Lots of ignorance out there. I'm with ya! Some people are just so silly. Subscribed!
I had not planned on putting hardwood flooring in my house but after seeing this video, I am going hardwood!!! 😁 Great Video!! Thank you!!!!!!
Price per sq ft it is the best investment you can make if you have the right environment for it! Cheers!
Listen I'm a carpenter and I absolutely have the life hack for running floors without layout and thresholds at every doorway. It's so simple .
I enjoyed you video and it was very informative to get a homeowner going. Dont care about the shoes, but please dont show homeowners how to cut like that on a saw. Pros get injured all the time with those. Occasional users should be warry and respect the power those saws have. I do bend the rules a bit with saws but undestand first thumb the damage they can do. IYKYK. Second is I didn't hear any comment about reading the manufacturers instructions or warranty documents. Every manuf. I have installed requires an underlayment to validate the residential waranty. Just something to think about. Keep up the content. Hoping to one day put out similar informative content.
This channel is like a master class............
Flooring??... Now we are cooking baby!....Now only because he's a master Carpenter... Just a question.....Have been hearing allot of people moving to use OSB for flooring ideas.... By chance, in the future would he be willing to do a video on OSB flooring ideas??
I will look into that. Cheers!
Nice!
Very good explanation. Thanks!
our pleasure. Cheers!
MrYoucandoityourself because you are the master
After watching several videos on this topic, I feel more confident with the installation ahead of our floor. Excellent tutorial, tips, tricks and techniques! Thank you.
Cheers Donald, glad to be of some help!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the little tips that are usually only learned from lots of experience and resolving problems encountered. Very helpful stuff.
i used to cut flooring with the exact same saw just like that to save time. one day i was cutting a piece of cherry like that, and there was one little dense spot in the board that stopped the saw quick and smacked my fingers between the board and the cage so hard that when it broke my finger TIPS, it bent the cage. Take my advice and spend the time either using the right saw, or sitting in a hospital.
I have two questions:
(1) Should the floor be leveled prior to installation to avoid dips in the final product?
(2) Is there an underlayment product that you could put under the hardwood to help deaden sound for the lower level below the hardwood floor?
Not him, but the answer to 1 is yes the surface you are installing solid hardwood on should be level, with all valleys, peaks, holes in subfloor repaired first to avoid problems later.
The answer to 2 is if you are installing hardwood planks over a cement floor or over a crawl space than use felt paper (15lb+) to help prevent moister from reaching the underside of the hardwood. If installing on a living level that is above an underground basement use flooring paper. You can skip the paper or felt if you are installing on a level that is above a living level that does not have humidity problems, although some hardwood manufacturers now insist as part of the warranty that paper be used even in this situation.
@@ljones4025 Thanks! I'm asking more about sound-deadening... thinking about a first story above a basement. I want to install hardwood in the first floor, but I want to minimize the sound transfer to the basement below. I'm wondering if there is a product that is both (A) safe for hardwood and (B) effective for sound-deadening.
I bought a home for a great price but it needs quite a bit of remodeling. I tore the 20 year old gross carpet out to find hardwood floors underneath in need of tlc. A video about refinishing hardwood floors would be awesome. I’m still blown away that you offer so much great advice for free! I’ve binged watched hours and hours of your videos. Thank you so much for making them!
working on that this spring. cheers!
Really enjoyed the video. Here are the time-indexes for things I found useful:
06:30 - Hallway tip, go parallel, not long ways
10:00 - Starting in the middle of the room
12:10 - Tip: Very few tools
15:45 - Tip: Nailer use
18:35 - Tip: Measuring for the wall
21:45 - Tip: Stapler out of nails ... how to tell & avoid, replace staple sooner
26:30 - Tip: PL Premium adhesive & brad nails. Brads only hold it so the glue can cure.
32:13 - Tip: Unset staple keeps tongue & groove from mating, use a knife
37:03 - Tip: Make sure you're happy before you commit. Having it just right is worth the effort.
20:00 I normally like some Parmesan on my pizza. I've never tried sawdust ;-)
It's only because you have never tried it before! Delicious
Excellent video,I don't know if it was mentioned but you should purchase your hardwood at least a week before installation and store it in the rooms you are going to floor.This allows the hardwood to adjust to the humidity level of the space,avoiding too much shrinking or swelling after install.
Right
Craig Code that process is call acclimation and is not 1 week, actually could be several weeks depending on moisture content on hardwood and subfloor, for that you will need to use a professional tool. It seems easy to do , the truth is there are professionals who do this for a reason
@1heavyhammer shows what you know, waited two months after wood was delivered to start it because of humidity issues.
Please don't stop making videos because some people are mad that we want to do it ourselves. I can't afford to call someone I don't make a slot of money. So the option is either I do it myself or stay with the cracked tile that lift up everytime we walk on it. Your videos are very informative and make me feel better about doing it myself. You will have support! Thank you
Jeff that is a awesome video covering pretty much all the challenges one would face while installing the hardwood floor. Thanks for sharing.
Love the videos. I was wondering what the procedure or best practice would be when installing hardwood flooring across multiple rooms with out transitions. For example, where would you start? Supposed it was from the front entry back towards the kitchen and extending left and right from the front door to living/dining areas? Do you plan on starting across your longest continuous run, make that square and go from that point?? Thanks for the great videos and amazing tips.
Love your commentary 🐸
Thanks Cheers!
I am so excited! On Craig’s List someone had a pile of free wood - and I mean a pile! There was beautiful trim work, railings, and so much more that filled our truck. The best? Hardwood! There was beautiful oak flooring! I could only get about a 8x6 area but he said he had more under the house. Our truck was full so we left. A month later I called the guy and asked him if he had any flooring left. He said sure! Under his house was so much flooring! Some bundles were brand new! I just wanted enough to make a staging area for my furniture I sell. Now I’m thinking of doing my dining room. It’s absolutely beautiful! I’m so thankful you made this video!
I've installed the same hardwood floor. Mirage -Rich Oak 10 years ago and still looks great
I like the way you do things... reminds me of myself doing contract work. I just purchased a "fixer upper" house in need of complete renovation (circa 1960's), and thought I'd see how others are doing things. Great job, thank you!
This is a ridiculously good video. It was very honest and answered all the questions I had about the hard parts. Much appreciated!
I just found your channel and I'm loving every bit of it. I've been bindge watching like crazy lol!
Keep up the great work.
Great video, I feel confident about trying a project like this in our house. Great content and explanation of how to do things.
In regards to the safety trolls question, I'd say that for a homeowner who isn't wearing heavy-ass safety boots every day for 10 hours a day, the risk of a knee replacement is low compared to stepping on a nail... But I mean, to each their own... Everyone is able to make their own risk assessments for what is and isn't overkill...
no big deal. just a little pain and a bandaid and off ya go.
to be honest...hardwood installers do not wear big ass boots..they mark the floors they get in the way and since your not working in a steel factory you really dont need them..but you DO need to be able to move..same reason roofers and siding guys dont wear them..just watch what your doing.
Your footwear should match the industry/job you’re performing. Good pair of comfortable shoes for this job is just right.
A true tradesman. Eating while working and cutting right next to the lunch box lmao
I really like the way you explain the process, is been like 9 some years when I came across with your videos , I had never lay a floor before and it was our first home , so I had to do it ourselves, and now we about to get an other house and we’re thinking hard wood flooring this time , so I had to watch your videos again . Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us . Following from West Virginia 👍🏼
one should start with this video beginning any hardwood project. A great primer!!
New fan and new subscriber. Your videos are very informative. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, we appreciate that. Cheers!
The heavy breathing 👌
Yes sir, please no kidding you may want to see a doctor. Great videos...
For those replacing complete home flooring or many rooms of flooring in hardwood, I recommend using a "jamb saw" to trim up door moldings. It will saw you hours of "on your knees, hand sawing", and when set properly this tool makes very fast, accurate and clean cuts. I use a "Roberts 17076 10-46 6-Inch Jamb Saw". Comes with a case, easy to use and adjust, and not that expensive. There are several other brand names available. I also use and recommend safety glasses with power tools, although they are inconvenient... nothing worse than sawdust in the eyes (for days), worse than sawdust pizza.
Safer and easier and cheaper to use a oscillating saw for door jambs. An installer who works at the same shop caught a subfloor nail with a jamb saw and blew out a sliding glass door and cost the shop 300 dollars. If you need to trim long lengths of base board and for some reason cant pull it up then get a jamb saw.
So ive done ALOT of the renovations that you can do to a house over the years, and while i understand ill never know everything or all the "best" ways to do it all, i can honestly say im pretty savvy...That being said, ive watched your videos for a year or two now and i really enjoy them, you are an excellent teacher, very thorough...Thanks bud
Quick tip with the spline/double tongue/ slip tongue whatever you want to call it. glue it, throw in a couple brads to hold it in place, then run the stapler like you would with the normal tongue side. (Tip from one of those pros who dings the drywall 😉)
On a side note, good thing I don't put any videos up of what happens on our jobsite. I think the CZcams safety trolls would have a aneurism with the "creative cutting techniques" we use.
I love watching your videos, keep up the good work
Just something I will have to deal with until the jobsite finally kills me. Oh well. Who wants to live forever!
Im a sailor, and I know that all too well. Cant ever really post any funny videos from the job to social media since everything that is fun/funny is prohibited by some safety law.
Thanks for all of the videos you're a great teacher
Wrong, 1st of all any professional floor guy know you run your wood long ways down a hallway, 2nd you never ever cut a board around a door jamb ,you under cut the door casings and jambs and slide the wood under it. And also no paper underlayment. That floors going to have tons of squeaks, always put pink paper or the white vapor barrier paper under hardwood flooring. And staples is a no!! They slip out of the sub floor, always use 2 inch cleat nails. I've been doing hardwood flooring for 20 years now. An in quite a few million dollar homes .
Thanks once again! Floor looks great.
You are awesome, Jeff. Thanks for the detailed instructions and tips. It gave me confidence to try this in my home.
Nice job Jeff.
Thanks. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY aqiadire 0660714534
19:51 Saw dust and pizza is a great combination.
Great video Jeff. I have done almost every reno in many homes with the exception of installing hard wood floors. Your video was explained in great detail with all questions answered. Keep up the much appreciated communication.
Rick. York Region Ont
Great advice for the DIY people out there, Thanks
Interesting video on installing hardwood ! I was assuming when you got closer past the closet threshold that you would have to glue the last couple of pieces as well; since the stapler gun would probably not fit in that space ?
you can use a regular nail gun for the last pieces
I just found your channel, lots of good stuff Jeff, thanks. Question - I'm about to install this type of floor over 3/4 plywood (ripping up the carpet, second floor). I've read mixed opinions on underlayment. I've used rosin paper in the past. I noticed in this video you didn't use any underlayment (perhaps because you used adhesive?) What is you opinion? Thank you.
Came here to ask the same question....
Jeff enjoys a handful of wood chips on his pizza every now and then. 😋
As always, great work brother!
Even though your VD here is 2 years old, always fun watching you doing home renovations.
I can’t believe I watched the whole thing.
I think that every time I finish a longer video of his.. he just has too much good information imo
Dig all your videos.
I'm preparing for 2 bathrooms and tile, you videos were very informative to this 30 year electrician.
For my solid hardwood floors on sub floor I have been using red rosin paper, is this ok? Should I use something else?
I'm installing solid IPE Brazilian walnut with stainless cleats
Also wondering if wax underpayment is needed?
I like how the register perfectly matches the color of the pre finished flooring! So spot on
Thanks Jake, it is a nice look worth adding to the project.
Ok,You rock it!! You are gifted brother 🙏! THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSIGHT
I'm not trying to ridicule you bud. I always recommend a vapor barrier under your wood floors. Even if today everything is perfect. There's no telling what the future holds. I personally would never nail a floor in the same direction as the floor joists run. It promotes movement in the wood floors and I personally have seen sagging between the joists. Also undercut all casing. Always have a 1/4 to 1/2 inch expansion everywhere. As far as your cutting technique to each his own. I wouldn't do it because of the wear and tear on the blade. You do that with the right hardwood and you've burnt a expensive blade. Thank you for showing people it's okay to get off the couch and do something. Good job bud.
Cheers Duane, I get the opinion, just not a fan of a redundant paper moisture barrier. It does not make sense on a building science level. Just something guys have been doing since the early 1940's back when they were just starting to understand moisture and its effect on building. Up here in Canada we don't construct over a crawl space hardly ever so we have completely conditioned space under the floors where we are installing hardwood, so as you can see it is probably a regional issue more than a best practice issue. But yes if you have a crawl space it would make sense. It would make more sense to use a different flooring in those situations as well I would suppose! Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thanks for you information, im appreciate it.
Home RenoVision DIY Moisture barrier is required by the NWFA so that explains a lot of comments asking about it. Can’t believe they don’t require it on main or sub levels in Canada.
Not only for a moisture barrier but it helps with squeaks too!
@@bobby8719 In my experience it does not help with squeaks. That is a myth. The squeaks are coming from either nails going in and out or adjacent boards rubbing together at their edges. I have wood subfloor sheathing in place and I still get the squeaks from these two reasons I mentioned. Nails are better than they used to be so this doesn't happen as often, but you should always make sure the subfloor is flat and remember to screw down any squeaky or lifted areas before you begin. Squeaky subfloors equals squeaky finished floors.
Show us the finished product. 👍🏻
Great job.. thank you for showing us how to work through natural and normal errors... some similar videos are so perfectly done that you get stuck when you run into a real-world problem. Thanks
Great video. Very practical tips and some great ideas to borrow. You rock Jeff.. Also, thank you for taking your time to share your experience. Love it
Glad to help. Cheers!
Please show how you would do the hardwood and/or laminate up stairs
Save yourself a shit ton of time and money and just go with carpet on stairs.. it looks just as nice
@@benjaminjohnson824 this just isnt true
Thanks so much, however, I am confused why there is not a paper/foam/something barrier under the new wood?
It's called a lawsuit...no vapor barrier=installer gets sued by insurance company...plain and simple
If its plywood, doesn't really require underlayment. As he explained in the video, that place, the subfloor is not moist. If its moist and concrete slab, definitely you need it
This guy is an experienced craftsman!!
Jeff running that miter like a real man 💪 Great instructions!!
good luck having a warranty with mirage laying the wood with the floor joists noticed via nailing on subfloor. "doing floors for over 24 years " working with Mirage for over 12. (and the nail pops you'll be getting from that unsunk nail that you cut the board to fit around instead of setting it :/ other then that good info for homeowners ... but those are 2 big things that if they dont know will set them up for failures later down the road. and zero warranty on the product to fall back on. and nail spacing is another big one. to ensure retaining a product warranty
Let's not pretend like you need to protect a warranty on a product that will last 100 years. The only time the warranty comes into question is when someone does not acclimatize the wood and then the mills just walk away. It is never the producers fault on the site.
😂 cutting wood having all that man glitter all over his pizza. This is real life s*** right here.
Great advice. Never thought of using adhesive. We used to use 15 gauge finish nails and nail at an angle into the tongue. I will use adhesive next time.
Excellent tips! Thank you!
Hi , I was wondering why you did not use paper underneath to prevent possible sound. We always install paper sheet between subfloor and wood flooring.
Thanks. I'm curious why you don't recommend leaving an expansion gap between the flooring and the walls but instead knock everything in so tightly. If humidity and temperature cause the flooring to expand, won't it buckle?
Good question....
Wood doesn’t expand very much long it’s length, and he left a 1/16th he said, which is probably fine for a 3ft wide section.
The most useful video on hardwood installation on youtube. Excellent tips, great presentation. Thank you.
Great video but a few suggestions/criticisms from someone who installed hardwood for over 10 years (taught by someone who did it for over 20 years).
The biggest criticism is: you already have a jam saw. You should have cut both jams where the new flooring meets the old. It would allow you to cut most of the way to the old flooring and usually a razor knife and/or a sharp wood chisel will get to the part you can't reach with the jam saw because it is too close to the old. Even if you can only go in 1/8 of an inch you can still cut the wood to eliminate any visible gap between the new wood and the jam.
No need for the adhesive where you change direction. Just use the nailgun to nail through the sliptongue.
Using a finish nailer (not pin nailer) eliminates the need for adhesive until you get within about 6" of the wall. The nails are thicker than a pin nailer and will hold the floor down fine.
You really should use pieces from different boards for the 1" pieces between the vent and the wall otherwise you can usually tell they are all from the same board from the color/grain. When you are going the opposite way you can just cut them from when you are doing the end cuts. Just cut the 1" piece off first then cut the end cut to the final length. Helps eliminate waste also.
If you have a table saw rip about 1/16" - 1/8" of the groove side of a piece of flooring about 4-6" long. It allows you to use it as a beater board to tighten the flooring without taking any chance of the top edge getting damaged like you chance when you are using the hammer. By cutting off the 1/16" - 1/8" it allows the beater board to be pressing again the tongue rather than the top edge. It would also stop from crushing the tongue like it would if there was no groove like if you used a piece of plywood.
You say that it can be refinished down the road (which it can be, multiple times usually) but when you have the staple sticking up you cut the underside of the top layer of the other piece which means you would not be able to sand that piece of wood as much as the other boards without going through. One better way is to use the side of a wood chisel (usually 1" or larger so the handle does not interfere) which will drive the entire staple in at the same time. If that does not work then put in another staple about 1" away from the old one, use a chisel to cut the tongue on either side of staple then drive the staple straight down out of the way. You might have to still cut the bottom edge of the other board a little. You need to cut the tongue 1st otherwise when you drive the staple down the tongue can splinter in both directions (like you can see starting to happen in the video) for up to 3-4" in you are unlucky.
Why didn't you use paper under the hardwood?.is it not important?