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ATI Super Damper - What you need to know!
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- čas přidán 18. 12. 2018
- Building a performance BP engine? This videos covers all the detail you need to know about the ATI Super Damper for your performance engine build!
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![What You SHOULD Know About Harmonic Damper Pulleys | Harmonic Balancers 101 [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/J1BGsgIZ_Ek/mqdefault.jpg)
Recently I've switched over to the Fluidampr. It bolts to the crank pulley versus replacing it, and is fluid filled which dampens more than the ATI. Also much much easier to install as you don't have the insane tolerance on the crank nose.
Hey Brap, good option I hadn't considered. The ATI item is damn expensive, and install is painful being that it completely replaces the OEM timing gear.
second that fluiddampr is the go
The ATI damper is a better option than a Fuluidamper because of its band system as apposed to a viscous fluid. BUT, hp gains can be seen from both ATI & Fluidamper.
How did you find the fluidampr? I’m thinking about getting one for my build. The only concern I have is there doesn’t seem to be much contact between the damper and the nose of the crank, guess I’m worried about stripping the keyway.
@@Msj10934 The ATI is tuned to fit a narrow rpm range, and is not nearly as effective as the fluid damper over the entire rpm range. There are many oem performance offerings that are switching to fluidampr from ATI after extensive testing of them both. NASCAR may also be making the switch, as the test data has shown the fluidampr to be better at controlling a wider range of harmonics than the ATI.
Make sure you put your timing belt on first!!! I learnt the hard way :)
Good tip! I'm sure a few had made that mistake! Not easy to get the damper off!
you should do a video showing installation as well as removal, that'd be really helpful.
I cover the summary of the install process in this video, removal would require a puller tool, and is not exactly an easy task.
Put balancer in near boiling water and have engine cold, should slide on very easily.
Good advice, even pre-heating with a heat gun may suffice.
This helps a lot. I am about to build a NB with 85mm pistons and decked head pushing 11:1 compression on h beam rods and tomie cams. I was wanting to get it to rev at about 8k redline. NA powered.
Ooh. Exciting. What is your intended power target? Close to 200hp I would assume?
I avoided oversized pistons for fear it could weaken the block, I'm sure I am just paranoid but the turbo should make up for the lack of displacement.
@@Bbeavis oh yeah NA powered about 200 HP target. Turbo will make up more power than the NA build any day. Your turbo build is perfect for power and reliability for continuous laps without over stressing the block. Have you thought of a fully ported head? Is your power band geared for the middle of the rev range or mid to high?
@@upfactoryracing4148 I felt that the head isn't really a limitation here and didn't need too much attention. the target power can be fairly easily achieved with the turbo and controlling the boost level with the ECU. It's a farily linear power delivery from around 3k to 7.5k rpm.
@@Bbeavis on power circuit courses that is perfect. That vvt setup flows pretty good. I am knife edging the intake port and working the intake valve bowls with three angle valve seats and a mirror shine exhaust bowl and port trying to squeeze every bit out of that 97 1.8. We have it in a 91 body using the 1.6 wiring with cylinder 2 and 3 swapped at the coil for correct firing order. We ditched the flapper AFM for the 99 1.8 maf with separate intake temp sensor. This build is great but my friend is looking for a cleaner shell to swap into.
FYI you heat the hub to 200 degrees by boiling water and make sure the engine is cold oil crank a tad and should slide right on never want to force it
Funny, ATI didn't detail that in their instructions.
BEAVIS Motorsport watch real steet he Tells how to do iy
Love your vids! I read on the forum that running a peterson relief valve could solve some of the common problems related to the oem oil pump and damper. If someone could shed some light on this that'd be great. The guy said he runs this instead of upgraded oil pump gears and ati damper. Only has a modified lightweight oem damper.
From what I understand it’s not an oil pressure problem. The harmonics/vibration that the factory damper absorbs are increased as you make more HP or increase rpm. The factory oil pump can shatter. Boundary oil pump is much much stronger so that solved the shattering part. ATI is supposed to absorb the vibrations allot better and reduce all over harmonics, an extra bonus is apparently engines can make a little more power and feel smoother with an ATI installed. (Thinking you can add timing moreso)
Hi Walt, I think Davo has it covered pretty well. I generally tried to take the suggestions of those who have already done this sort of work, so parts vendors who build MX-5 Miata engines frequently were my go-to for advice.
Wow, great video. Short and sweet.
Glad you liked it!
The ATI damper being put on a 1.6L short nose will not help the key issue at all correct? The key failure of the short nose can only be fixed by replacing the crankshaft entirely?
It may help reduce the chance of that occurring, but fundamentally the key-way problem is the design of the crank itself and thus the real solution is moving to a 1.6 with the long-nose crank, or a 1.8L engine.
@@Bbeavis thank you, i wish i didnt end up with a short nose but at lease i have only 61k miles
If I'm replacing my harmonic balancer just as a rebuild for a daily driver mx5, is it worth the extra to put one of these on?
I don't see the value.
Flying Miata recommends the damper for any engine, as it smoothes out the vibration and makes a daily driver more comfy.
I installed one in my 60* V6 engine after shredding the stock unit because it couldn't take the RPMs. What a difference! The engine revs cleaner, quicker and with better throttle response. It was expensive but the performance gained cancels out the price. You'll agree with me when you drive your car!
Interesting, thanks for the feedback Moloon. I definitely expect it would be a very positive change for the rather unbalanced BP engine.
At 500 to 600 Australian Dollars most don't even bother getting one . But I'll hopefully get one for my fj20 and other engines ive got .Hopefully
They are closer to 700 from where I have looked. I want one but can’t justify the cost. Hoping if I keep factory redline and good oil pump it will hold together.
They are mighty pricey, but my old one was pretty sad and an upgraded front damper is almost a necessity for the rather inherently wobbly Mazda BP engine.
This is a great vid. I am doing timing belt on my nb soon. I plan to go turbo in future and figure I will do a damper upgrade w/ timing belt.
I only plan for 225 wheel hp or so. I already have a megasquirt 3 that I have not installed yet.
I can't find a solid answer or info about trigger wheels. Is there any need for a larger tooth wheel at the hp goal I want? I'm trying to figure out if I would be fine with a 4 tooth wheel.
Trigger wheel changes aren't a necessity, but there is value in doing so, particularly since you have the MS3 to install anyway, the trigger wheel is a small price to pay for the convenience.
@@Bbeavis Ok cool..sounds like the difference between 4 tooth and the extra tooth wheels just give the aftermarket ecus more granularity in figuring out what the engine is doing?
Seeing more teeth go by allows the ecu to know quicker if engine is speeding up slowing down etc? Let's you fine tune your tune a little bit more vs a 4 tooth wheel maybe?
Hard to word it...but that's how I understand the difference from the research I've done so far.
@@fireonmytarget8937 "the difference between 4 tooth and the extra tooth wheels just give the aftermarket ecus more granularity in figuring out what the engine is doing" - yes, exactly. Because the ECU knows where the crank is positioned more quickly/accurately, Engine start up can be easier and the ECUs ongoing management of the fuel/ignition is more accurate.
@@Bbeavis Thanks for the info, I ended up ordering the ATI w/ 4 tooth wheel from FM. I haven't installed the MS3 yet, and I'm trying not to throw too many changes at the car at once. I'm doing damper/timing belt/water pump and radiator w/ coolant reroute soon. Going to be my biggest job yet! :) I'll do MS3 / wideband / gauge after the car is back to life w/ the new belt I think.
Can you send me a link to the ati super damper I need? I have a 2000 C5 vette also what’s the Benefit of the model that offers 10 percent underdrive?
Sorry I do not sell them mate, might be best contacting a retailer to help you out.
Hey you mentioned quickly about the 1.8 damper fitting on the 1.6 long nose. If I was to purchase the 1.8 ati damper you’re saying it would fit the long nose 1.6 providing I change the other pulleys as well? I’ve been hunting for a 1.6 super damper for a while now but no one seems to make them.
Indeed, chat to your preferred supplier. As I understand you need to change from the V rib on the accessory pulleys to the 4-rib, then it should bolt right up.
@@Bbeavis I just ran into the alternator water pump V belt issue, do you know what car folks are sourcing the 4 rib pulleys from???
@@crewjones The later model 1.8 mx-5 / miata.
How come you haven't installed your timing belt yet?
Just threw the pulley on lightly to be able to video this, before my dad came by to help with the actual installation.
@@Bbeavis Gotcha. Did you knife-edge the crank? Or nothing too wild?
Nooo, just aiming for simple but sturdy. Not too crazy.
@@Bbeavis Words to live by my friend. Same thing I was looking for before I got married. ;)
This damper gave me 300hp ! I’m flying now, all I need now is wings!
LOL
What function Ati super damper bro.. sorry newbiss
Thanks for your comment, unfortunately I do not understand what exactly you are saying.
Someone please explain what it's the benefit of a dampener upgrade #chutney2020
High power engines makes a lot of micro vbibrations that can destoy your oil pump. If your are going to big power/rpm's goals, you have to replace your oil pump (boundary ones mare bulletproof) and your balancer (ATI ones). pump + balancer costs around 900$, lot of money.
Hey chutney, basically what Nicolas said.
Awesome! I will definitely be keeping this in mind. I love his reply. Not many people answer questions in laymens(spell check) terms for people like me
I went on the ati site but couldn't find one for my built sr20det
That's a shame.
If you aren't running a cam sensor your going to have to run a 12-1 crank trigger wheel. Keep that in mind
I presume that would depend on the car, engine, ECU etc.
@@Bbeavis yes sir. That is true. I know that without a cam sensor the Haltec and Fueltech (that I own) do have to use a 12-1 crank trigger wheel when no can trigger is being used. I honestly can't speak for other products. I did find a beautiful 32-2 b series trigger wheel made by Delacruz however my FT450 won't except the 32-2 wheel. It has to be 12-1. I should have got the FT550 from the beggining. My mistake.
Ha, first! Awesome vid!
THANKS!
How you gonna get it off tho?
Removal requires a puller tool. I made one with some metal plate and three bolts.
BEAVIS Motorsport do you have a video on how you made it? Because I have the damper also.
Wow not just handsome but very smart
I got my pen licence at 9 years of age.
Sadly that damper is ridicously expensive...
Yeah it's a pain, but it's almost a requirement for a performance build. The stock damper on these engines is OK, but not perfect.
The factory damper is only designed to withstand only so much HP. When you modify a vehicle past it’s factory specifications more dampening is required, as more (and stronger) torsional vibrations are introduced through the RPM range.
Who cut your hair😂
what?
I'm so super broke for that :-(
I'm sorry mate!