Marzocchi 380 Fork Service Tutorial || Spring Side || ALL MODELS
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Damper side video is now online:
• Marzocchi 380 C2R2 For...
For additional information/ torques for bolts:
marzocchiworksh...
Let me know in the comments if you want to suggest another tutorial I should do, as well as criticism or everything else.
I explained the process to the best of my knowledge, however, I can NOT provide any guarantees that anything in this video works perfectly. Any tasks you see in the video you'll have to do at your own risk. Also non-professional service of your fork can expire your warranty on it.
good video, I will wait for more videos about 380 fork
Great video!, I am going to attempt. Agreed, do the damper side.
It would be great if you could make a video on the damper side
do the damper side pls
I will make a video for the damper side as well as soon as I got the time to do it!
ChaosBiker Great job!! Waiting for damper side video!! 👍👍
People are waiting patiently :). It would be really appreciated, as you did really fantastic job on this one.
Hey guys, I just uploaded the damper side video, I hope it's useful: czcams.com/video/jUjNRppndLM/video.html
Awesome, damper side please...
hi, nice video!
In case you got access to a marzocchi moto damper, a tutorial on how to service it would be awesome!
Unfortunately I don't service my shocks by myself, as I had trouble bleeding them sometimes in the past. But it should be doable with regular equipment on the Moto shock.
@@ChaosBiker ah ok, thanks for answering tough!
Please, make a video on the other side!!!.
Thanks for you bro))
New owner of a 380 lookibg to change springs . Can i take it out through the top ??? Seems in there pretty good .
cool vid- is 29 wheel fitting in 2014 model?
Hey guys, I just uploaded the damper side video, I hope it's useful: czcams.com/video/jUjNRppndLM/video.html
Great video could you please do the damper side? Much appreciated
hello what a good tutorial, what other type of grease do you recommend me?, since I can't find pm600 military grease in my country.
So I have a spring for my weight I want to put in. But it has no shrinking tube around it. Is this necessary? What's it made of? What is it actually called? Where do I buy it?
Edit: Figured out you can use just ordinary shrink wrap.
Please do the damper side
what do I do if my preload cap doesnt turn at all?
what kind of spring do you have in it
Thx👌
Excellent instructions, thank you for making this video. I have the same issue as the post just below - cannot turn the high speed compression knobs. Any insight on this? Thanks much!
I just fixed it!, try to remove your handlebars so you have more leverage, and put your full hand around it, try to turn it clock wise, dont just use your fingers, its pretty tight. (mine came on the lowest click, thats why you gotta turn it clockwise.)
I'll just copy-paste my reply:
The high-speed circuit adjuster are indeed a pain to use, for the HSR it was suggested by a forum member to use a pipe wrench and a towel or similar and turn it in and out all the way several times. It'll still be a pain in the ass, but a bit easier to turn afterwards. Also you need to pay attention to not overtighten it in any direction. It worked for me, but it's not a really safe or nice way to do it, especially if it's stuck at one end of the range and you don't know which one.
For the HSC it's also a bit painful to use on every fork I had my hands on so far, but not as bad as HSR. If it's stuck completely, maybe the 'solution' for the HSR will work as well, otherwise maybe it maybe works if you take off the adjuster cap, loosen the nut under the adjuster and tighten it again, but not as hard as before. Note that if you continue to turn the assembly past the open position your shim stack may fall apart into the cartridge, making a service inevitable. I'll try to put on a solid solution when doing the damping side video.
Cheers
Do the damper side plsssssss
Nice
Thanks for posting the fork service tutorial, as I bought this fork not too long ago and I have been looking for someone who has worked on the 380. I did notice the fork came with an extra spring in the box, but I have no clue of what the difference would be, based on the spring that was installed in the fork. What visible designation is on the springs, to reference how soft or hard the spring is designed, for the weight of a rider?
color. blue is medium, grey is firm
Here are the springs listed to their colours:
marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.de/2015/04/understanding-380-c2r2.html
Thanks! I pulled the spring out and noticed the colour difference placed on the spring, underneath the plastic, compared to the colour I see on the other spring that came in the box from the factory. I changed the spring and I am not noticing a significant difference, but yes, it is a bit more firm. I will drain the oil and add a higher viscosity oil to create a greater resistance and I will decrease the preload.
This is a great demonstration video for the rare Marz fans!
Higher viscosity oil will only make a difference when used on the damper side, as oil in the spring side is used for lubrication only. However, you can slightly adjust end travel progression via oil volume, but this will cause a slightly higher stress on the seals due to more pressure inside the lowers when fully compressed.
Top
Anyone know where I can find service manuals for Marzocchi's?
can you drop a link to a service kit for this fork?
А второй картридж? Ногу с пружиной я и так перебиру.
Wich is the density of the oil
i think manual says about 80ml for each tube. what viscosity you use ?
The volumes given from Marzo indeed change a bit depending on model year, at least for the spring side. But here the oil is only used for lubrication, so 60ml should be more than enough, it won't do any harm if you put in 80ml or 100ml also.
You can also substitute the spring side oil (ONLY spring side) with oils which specialize in lubrication, not damping performance, r.s.p. Air Fluid for example. For the damper side Marzocchi indicates 60 to 80ml in the lower leg, cartridge completely filled. However, a guy from Cosmic Sports, former german distributor of Marzo suggested me to use 135ml, but I'll try to cut it down to the officially stated 80ml the next time I change the oil to check if there are any performance affecting effects.
I use Motorex 7,5W , which has a Viscosity of 35,9cSt @ 40°C. As far as I know, the same oil was used for Marzocchi service by former german distributor, Cosmic Sports.
i have 2017 380 c2r2 titanium, it comes with second spare spring in the box. But which spring is titanium and which one is stiffer?
Usually there's the spring rate written on each spring, like k=X,X N/mm, higher numbers means stiffer. Anyway the titanium one should be significantly lighter. According to this blog there should be a color for each spring rate, but my ones don't have this: marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/04/understanding-380-c2r2.html
As the spring can be switched in a few minutes with the fork installed, I'd just recommend to test both springs if you're not sure.
YEAH DUDE ! Thanks a lot for your answer :)@@ChaosBiker
What spring rate do you have? I would like to know how I can differentiate the different titanium spring options (I have a titanium grey spring like yours in the video but I don't know which is).
Thank you!!
And another question about the elastomer, how much do you recommend to cut?
I'm using the hard spring having 74kg body weight, but I like riding with not too much SAG (~17% if I rmb correctly), bc the geometry won't change too much when riding very steep tracks or under heavy breaking. For some others maybe the medium one will work better, it's not as exhausting to ride in most situations. To differ the springs, they are color-coded, but tbh my one doesn't have any colored parts... But the differences should be big enough to estimate your spring by the data on SAG and weight above.
For the elastomer, I'd first check how much travel you are able to use when taking really hard hits, then remove the top cap and bottom out the fork to see how much free travel is available (it's most likely NOT 200mm, mine has 194mm till it hits the bottom out damper at the shaft end). I'd cut it on about half the difference of the 2 numbers and see how much travel you can use now, repeating the process till you're satisfied.
ChaosBiker thank you! I used to use about 170mm max, so if I understood well, if my 380 has for example 200mm and I only can use 170mm, you recommend first cut only 15mm of the elastomer. Then see how it goes and repeat if necessary. Doesn’t it?
Thank you🤘
@@freerider1675 Yeah, bc then you can estimate if it's necessary to cut it another time and if so, how much.
Hey! I am having some problems adjusting the high speed compression as well as the rebound, the knobs seem to not give in, do you have any idea why?, they just dont turn
The high-speed circuit adjuster are indeed a pain to use, for the HSR it was suggested by a forum member to use a pipe wrench and a towel or similar and turn it in and out all the way several times. It'll still be a pain in the ass, but a bit easier to turn afterwards. Also you need to pay attention to not overtighten it in any direction. It worked for me, but it's not a really safe or nice way to do it, especially if it's stuck at one end of the range and you don't know which one.
For the HSC it's also a bit painful to use on every fork I had my hands on so far, but not as bad as HSR. If it's stuck completely, maybe the 'solution' for the HSR will work as well, otherwise maybe it maybe works if you take off the adjuster cap, loosen the nut under the adjuster and tighten it again, but not as hard as before. Note that if you continue to turn the assembly past the open position your shim stack may fall apart into the cartridge, making a service inevitable. I'll try to put on a solid solution when doing the damping side video.
Cheers
Is that spring bearing an aftermarket part, Id love to get one? Im finding parts really hard to come by for this fork, cant even find replacement bushings for god sake!
It's a fork spring bearing made by K9 Industries. It's originally designed for the 888, but as the spring of the 888 fits inside the 380 it works in the 380 as well. But it seems like they're not producing it anymore...
Would a generic thrust bearing work? It won't have the black top hat that the K9 has as depicted in your video, don't know how important or not that would be.
How important is this plastic around the spring? I just removed mine and the plastic has many holes in it and some small pieces have ripped off. Can i install the spring without the plastic wrap around it or is there a replacement?
Thanks,
The plastic is only there to prevent rattling, so as long as the noise doesn't bother you, it's totally fine. You could also coat it using some shrinking tube, but pay attention that the material it's made of won't dissolve in the oil.
will this work on c2r2 2014,do you know if marzocchi website advise with any torque power on bolts ?
It should work on all model years of the 380. For torques I didn't know about it when I made the video, but here are some information from a Marzocchi distributor:
marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.de/2015/04/understanding-380-c2r2.html
I tried to contact Marz/Fox weeks ago, but I have not received a response, so... I do think that if you tighten the caps or the allen bolt (@ 6:15 in the video) on the bottom of the fork for each stanchion until the o-rings stop the rotation of force with a spanner, plus quarter turn. I have applied these steps from the video and have ridden without any problems.
The significant difference between the sealing of the fork o-rings compared to a mechanical device, such as:
* Torque applied to a headset,
* Torque to the bolts for your brake calipers or...
* Any other mechanical component is very different compared to a sealing of a compressible vessel, such as the fork stanchions.
Yes, every company needs to give specifications for either installation or maintenance for the products, to the consumer.
you can see some basic details here , and there is good info on Pinkbike - look up Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
Nice video, is 380 c2r2 reliable?
Some people had issues with quickly wearing stanchion coating, but for the MY15 or newer there seems to be all good. Otherwise a very reliable fork.
ChaosBiker thanks for reply. What would you recomend to look after when buying a used 2014 c2r2?
wtf mine didn't have a foam ring