Oil Pressure- How Much Do You Need And Why
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- čas přidán 23. 11. 2021
- Some pressure is good, but too much can hurt horsepower as well as fuel economy. Here are the basics as they apply to the typical production based Ford, GM and Mopar high performance street cars.
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So I built a 340 in 2000 was going to do the high volume pump thing till my dad advised me being a mechanic in the 50 60 and 70s not to. His take was make sure your clearances are right and cam bearings where good am I would have any trouble with a stock oil pump. 20 years later the engine is still running 45 psi hot idle. Been into 6500rpm many times and still going. Old guys rock. Lol
Sounds like she's happy as mate. Some high zinc oil will also help it alot generally speaking
Rebuilt my 77 AMC 360 a year ago, original pump gears, i didnt replace anything in the pump. Its got 50 psi at idle
45 psi is very high for warm idle
Wayyy higher than necessary
@@fastinradfordable not really
@@fastinradfordable on a freshly rebuilt motor with proper clearances it is fairly normal. Most people run a 15w40 in older engines which will also increase pressure. After 20 years to see that much it is likely not a daily driver and has minimal wear.
I love the fact we are getting lessons on better gas mileage whilst a tunnel rammed big block resides in back ground! 😉🤩🖕
LMAO!!
WISEACRE😉
But don't cha just love that? Long live the monsters....
My high school auto shop teacher (who built drag boats) said "we teach high performance because it is also a way to understand efficiency"
He was saying in the video with the tunnel ram that it actually improved gas mileage when set up right. I think its because the extra time the fuel has to atomize
Facts. I remember back in the day the first engine I rebuilt, I was priming the oiling system prior to starting the engine using a drill and when it started building oil pressure the drill about twisted my adolescent arms into a pretzel because it takes A LOT of power to turn the oil pump and make oil pressure.
It'll put a hurt on your drill if not careful! I've heated up numerous drill motors this way...Don't burn up your drill! ;)
Yup, I jammed my hand between the drill handle and firewall while priming my 327 engine after a rebuild
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 you are right, it is very hard on a drill
@@superrodder2002 haha I could see that happening
@@baby-sharkgto4902 I eventually bought a very heavy duty Milwawkee drill for this reason, I think it turns 850 RPM and sports 3/4HP, got this covered now, lol. ;)
Smokey Yunick was a fiend for reducing any unneeded oil pressure to free up horsepower, I've read he often began with the cheapest parts house oil pumps, modified them, and then used them in 100,000 dollar engines. Even Ralph Earnhardt used hardware store screwdrivers for axle keys that wouldn't break.
smokey was a hero of mine. loved reading his column in circle track magazine
I owned an MGB once upon a time that had approximately 40 psi at cold idle. When i revved the engine the oil pressure dropped. after a short warmup the pressure at idle barely registered and disappeared entirely when revved. a complete teardown revealed nothing obvious. i was examining the oil pump when i dropped it on tbe floor and got a bit of unseen dirt in it. i stuck the driven rotor back in and absentmindedly twisted the shaft. the rotor didn't turn, the shaft did. turned out that the pin securing the driven shaft had sheared . when cold there was enough friction on the shaft from the sheared pin to generate some pressure but revving would make everything slip.
I've been hearing the 7psi per 1,000 RPM rule of thumb forever but no one could explain what the forces were that determined that. The centrifugal forces explanation seems obvious now that you explain it. Thanks Tony. I just learned something valuable
YEAH , he also mentioned the jackhammer effects of the combustion squeezing the oil film out at tdc.
I thought the rule of thumb was 10psi/1000rpm, but not a huge difference.
BTW, the tangs on the bearing shells are not there to resist rotation of the shells in the rod/cap/main bore. They are there simply to align things during assembly. Some newer engines don't even have the tanks. Bearing crush is what keeps the bearing from spinning in the bearing bore. I've seen several BMW S62 rod bearings that went metal to metal. What happened was that the tangs ripped off the shell and the bearing rotated a bit. Those pieces of tang then gouged the bearing and rod journal (since the backing is steel). It would have been better to not have the tangs there. I replaced the bearings with King bearings, which have more crush and more eccentricity, along with ARP 2000 rod bolts to stave of spinning the bearings.
10 psi per 1000 is what Smokey wrote in his book "Power Secrets". He also said in there a 350 would survive as low as 55 psi, but not to let it get lower
I had a bearing crush on a girl once, but she said it was overbearing, I'm just glad she never ripped my tangs off.
@@damonthomas8955 LOL DID YOU MEAN TAINT OR THANG ?
Great info as always.
A quick note for my modern engine guys: Remember that these new generation engines are engineered differently designed with different expectations of idle PSI. Hydraulic tensioners do not like 7PSI, and any flavor of Hydraulic Valve timing (Found in basically every new-age engine) is designed around the engine producing closer for 30-40psi.
TL;DR, Don't expect your 2020 Focus to like 7PSI idle oil pressure.
(laughs in VW 1.5 diesel from the 70s with 100psi at idle on a cold start) 😂
at some point a lot of the old school engine building rules stopped applying to new production stuff
@@andrewgarcia3136 yep,
New machining techniques that give tighter tolerances plays a role in this.
Does the 2020 focus have a variable displacement oil pump? These are becoming common on modern engines.
@@fatasdat yep, same way you can't run 70 weight in a coyote safely.
The rest of the video is pretty informative I just got to make one adjustment. note the tangs of a bearing are not to hold it from spinning the tangs are only a reference point to locate the bearing.. what holds the bearing in place is the "crush" how much the Rod Cap and the connecting rod crush the bearing in. the friction on back of the shells is what keeps the bearing from spinning. I'm not trying to take anything away from you Tony🤗 I just wanted to relate that to other people. 🤗 I think you did that to see if we're paying attention 👍🤗
Yes it's all about the crush. I'll take a rod slightly out of round with proper crush over a round one with bad crush.
This is awesome Tony, oil pressure and it's relationship to cooling the rod bearings is one of the most overlooked items that racers and race engine builders miss.Pressure is just the resistance to flow, increased clearances reduce pressure, but that's only part of the story, what a lot of builders don't quite get. I've found you can have great oil pressure and still burn up rod bearings, been there and done that. What I needed was increased oil volume flowing over the journals, to keep the bearing shells cool. Fail keeping them cool, and the plating on the bearings blisters, separates from the steel bearing substrate, like chrome plating bubbling up on an old bumper. The infamous 'glitter in the oil'. Once that happens, it's game over, the bearings need to be replaced pronto, otherwise the plating sluffs off, down to the steel core, and micro-welding takes place, bearing spins, crying and long faces, and a long tow home..
I never knew this Uncle Tony. I always thought high volume oil pump would be best but, you just educated me on this. You also educated me that sometimes more is not better. It pays to get other opinions and sometimes just listen and not have blinders on. Thank you Uncle Tony. I really appreciate your experience and the time you put into your videos!!! 👍👍
Higher volume low/stock pressure is still good.
@@AmosMosesJr No it's really not; a higher volume pump with the same engine clearances means you are still wasting power and heating up the oil pumping more of it through the pressure relief valve. You only need a high volume pump on an engine that is internally very leaky, with respect to the oiling system. That is not the case for most engines as UT says in the video.
@@redmondjp my point is a high volume pump is not going to have nearly as much parasitic loss as a high pressure pump. All depends on the application. I've worked on more industrial engines and don't race. I suppose if you're working on a smaller engine it might matter.
I have seen hydraulic systems with too high of flow pump that overheated the fluid being pumped. It ultimately melted the sight glasses off the reservoir. That's a whole different issue that should never happen with an oil pump.
@@AmosMosesJr You are not understanding my point. The pump does not work alone. If you do nothing else to the oil system but increase the pump flow, the system pressure will increase and you will heat up the oil blowing it through the relief valve just as you described.
@@redmondjp I suppose you're right. Wish we had real numbers to compare in regard to parasitic losses. I still suspect that higher pressure would play a bigger factor more than volume. I used to play around with vw beetles back in high school and I read that those had no oil filter to save on hp loss. But those only put out 25 to 60 hp.
Tony's explanations are excellent!!! Especially when addressing things like this... Just the knowledge, of the effects of proper bearing clearance and the direct corellation of oil pressure and the condition of the bearings is good to know!!!
I hate when I ask someone why they do something and all they can say is "well it's just what you do" or "this is just how I've always done it and it works fine". I'm not a hot rodder or even really a "tuner" (I just found this channel because I got an 88 Jeep YJ with an Edelbrock carb - first time dealing with a carburetor and was looking for videos about getting it set right) but still found this video hugely enlightening...the bit about how roller bearings will skid on oil reminded me of another video I had watched about how bowling lanes are pretty finely tuned by how much and what kind of oil is put on them and led to an "ohhhh so THAT'S how those things work" moment. I would LOVE to see more videos on topics like this that really dig into exactly WHY certain values are what they are...why do we run thermostats of a certain value? Why do we set spark timing where we do? What changes when we modify these values?
Solid advice as usual UT 💪🏻
Such a common mistake here in Australia on the old Holden V8 engines. People will put a high volume pump on a very mild engine and just end up filling the rockers full of oil and not allowing enough time for it to drain back. Appropriate mods / oiling system work it can be done, but so many combos its not even applicable.
Worst one I saw was sustained high-ish rpm (drag race) with a high vol pump which starved the bottom end and spun a bearing or two.
Sounds like Oldsmobile Engines especially the Big Blocks 400/425/455.
@@GregHuston Mondello Oldsmobile engines has a fix for that. Go Lansing Ligtning!
Perfect example of why I watch every single UTG video. Yes I've bought merch. Thank you for sharing Tony.
Man I used to have those manuals in my 20’s. 30 years later I need to find copies.
most people don't know this, glad you did this video!
Good of you to bring to light this oil pressure issue.
This is something I also learned many moons ago, how parasitic losses both absorb power otherwise available for performance and decrease fuel mileage in the same manner.
This type of thing was a big part of what went into my customers engines.
The OEMs have only begun to take the parasitic oil pumping losses to the next level as of late.
Several manufacturers before, and now Chevy's C8 Corvette have ECM modulated oil pressure, the bypass used to reduce oil pressure to the much lower level required at a lightly loaded cruise condition, and then ramp it up under high load conditions.
And some say hot rodding doesn't contribute to improving production cars - I say bullshit.
Amazing presentation once again. Uncle Tony speaks off the top of his head, with the detail and sequence of a thoroughly organized engineering editorial. Must be all that writing experience! Thanks UT!
I was just talking about this with a mechanic! He said the same thing! Great video!
We learned that lesson back in the early eights. Playing with circle track cars, one year we say we were not going to have time to finish a new car and a new engine. A friend racing ARCA recommended a builder to us and we had a engine built. On delivery the parts list shown a stock mopar oil pump. When questioned his response was try it you will like it. He then ask about any problems in the past with engines. The only thing we ever had was a couple bearing failures. At that point he responded that we must have been running a high-volume oil pump and yes, we had been. He then informed us all were doing was overheating the oil and pumping it all to the top of the engine at which point the oil pump sucked air and the pressure drops to oh shit levels.
I've always heard a minimum of 7 psi/1000 rpm too so I always assumed that was ok. The only time I've ever used a high pressure pump is on race only engines. High volume pumps can actually damage an engine if you run a stock oil pan. There's a chance that they can empty the sump and starve the pickup before enough oil has drained back down. I do disassemble the pump (new or used) and check the clearances as well as making sure that the mating surfaces are flat when I do any build.
Not true in all cases. I'm using a hv pump with my stock 402 pan in a freshly rebuilt 440 and never had any starvation/pressure loss issues no matter what rpm it's running. Yes, if you're low on oil or have restricted passages there's the potential for aeration, but try suspending over a gallon of hot oil in mid air.
My Dad used to say, high pressure oil pumps were good for sandblasting your bearings...
With the 4.6 modular if you have 4v heads, you have to have a HV oil pump, which came factory on 4v applications, but it's because you have to properly oil all 4 cams and give pressure to all 32 lash adjusters.
@@kramnull8962 I've never heard it called sand blasting but I know what he's saying. High pressure pumps can indeed "wash" the bearings.
@@Prestiged_peck It's fine as long as they're designed that way.
Good tips! As a very general rule of thumb if no specs specific to your engine are available, I agree that 7-10 PSI of oil pressure per 1K RPM is typically plenty. The only issue I have with this advice is the suggestion to use a thinner than specified oil to reduce oil pressure. Even if the bearings might be alright, the pistons, rings, cylinders, camshaft, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, timing chain, etc don't know or care what the oil pressure is and may not like a thinner oil. As the SAE viscosity grade drops, the HTHS viscosity typically drops too. A quick Google search for "hths wear graph" shows why that could be problematic if taken too far.
Thank you for backing up what I have been saying for years. Also, getting the oil to flow through the motor is cool. Ask anyone who has built a Cleveland.
There are two factors used for calculating horsepower requirements for pumps, flow and pressure . reduce either one and there is a reduction in required HP. Great video Tony.
years ago, I had a friend who was running a "TRANS AM" at the drag strip. he was always breaking the oil pump shaft tangs off at the distributor, and loosing engines. I asked him what the oil pressure was, he said "I DO NOT KNOW--- IT IS PEGGING THE GAUGE" ( over 100 psi) I told him "THE MOST OIL PRESSURE YOU NEED IS 40 PSI, YOU ARE NOT RUNNING A DUMP TRUCK" he changed the oil pressure relief spring in the pump and got the oil pressure down to 35 psi( when making a pass) he thanked me for the fact he went from a 12 second machine to a 9 second machine, and did not loose any more engines!!!!, you are "SPOT ON" when it comes to oil pressure, I remember the 472/500 cubic inch cadillack engines that were set up with 20 psi oil pressure from the factory and never had any problems. the auto industry had federal mandates that had to be met by a certain date, when it came to fuel consumption, they did it by running ultra light weight oils without modifying a thing on the cars/ trucks that they were producing!!!!
My 408 Cleveland hydraulic lifter setup has 2thou clearances throughout, it runs a Mellings hv pump using Brad Penn 20/50 and it achieves around 50 pounds at idle (warm) peaking at around 80 pounds at 6000rpm. It was built with a mild street aim with lower maintenance in mind. It runs most of the internal goodies with 245cfm rated 2V closed chamber heads limiting a couple of factors, home built 14yrs ago, on the dyno it made 250rwkw and still runs just the same today as I've only put around 14k miles on it since the build and it is maintained religiously. Your not wrong about parasitic loss though, it can quickly add up all over the place. It runs a large 7 blade fan surrounded with a good quality shroud, 1 big loss right there but I KNOW it's always doing its job, I carry a spare belt atleast. It's all horses for courses I guess, and what fits the budget at times. Great video once again Tony 🇦🇺👍
So your cam bearings are 2thou gap as well? Do you have to turn the cam a little to get the gap?
@@kramnull8962 Remac Performance here in Australia did the rotating assembly balance and line hone bored the camshaft/crank journals. I'm unsure personally of where the meat is missing, it was along time ago now. If it dawns on me I'll be sure to reply 👍
@Rick T I just described my build earlier.. Sounds exactly like yours.. High volume vs. High pressure is the answer I was looking for.. Thank you
Finally someone has covered this subject while challenging the myths. I've been wondering about what is right and why for many years :)
So glad you are covering this!
Always great info! I've messed with oil pressures and oil viscosity for years and ruined a motor or 2 by bad thinking. Best advice is to stay as close to stock as possible if using stock specs on rotating assembly. On an old engine with low oil pressure a high volume oil pump may buy you a few more years. I used 50 w in an old engine thinking it would provide more cushion on my rods and ended up starving front 2 rods! So oil viscosity and not knowing what your doing can have dire consequences
I had a good 1970 360 F.E. with 20 p.s.i. and wanted to bump it up. I added a full qt. of Lucas oil stabilizer and got 80 p. s.i. WAY too much! Drained it and put a Pint of Lucas in and got 40 p.s.i. @5000 rpm. It was much happier and so was I!
Been watching for years and THIS is probably the best info you've put out!! Thank you!!
Thanks for breaking it down. I knew higher oil pressure cost horsepower, but I didn’t know the bottom line for running low oil pressure safely. Great job explaining 👍
Probably one of your better informational videos. I was wondering about my low oil pressure during idle. Thanks.
AMC Era Jeep Guy here: Our rule of thumb for the 232/258/242 is ~7-10psi for every 1000rpm at fully warmed up.
Love your old school knowledge! Keep it up! You have leaps and bounds more knowledge than most of these builders on YT!
Uncle Tony and Uncle Ted are my favorite Uncle’s!!!
Maybe not the safest thing to do, but running 1qt low can keep your crank from dragging through the oil and free up horsepower as well. I run an 8qt pan on my Small Block Olds and only run 7 quarts, no need for fancy windage trays and reduces the parasitic drag.
It's totally safe. Even run only 5-6 qts.. Windage trays are still a good idea to use.
Thanks for explaining this. Haven't been able to find anything explaining pressure and where it should be.
I appreciate your knowledge and videos. Keep it up.
Because oil likes to cling to itself and metal the faster a shaft turns inside a bearing the more oil it will pull into the bearing, yea it draws itself in. There are some of the new design engines that need some of that pressure to spray sufficient oil out piston cooling jets and maintain pressure on cam chain tensioners but even then it's not an excessive amount. I remember back in the 80's, Cummins changed there strategy on the 855 diesel in over the road trucks. They went from typical 65 to 75 PIS oil pressure to 40 Psi. Reduced oil shear, and parasitic load a lot. Mainly freaked out experienced drivers but it really worked. We had a small Detroit engine in a truck that at overhaul it got the incorrect spring in bypass. It had about 15 PSI more pressure than it was supposed to. After about 15 to 20 miles running down the road it would develop low oil pressure. Seems the excess pressure caused the oil to get hot from shear then it would be to thin, changed spring to reduce pressure and pressure drop went away. Love your stuff Tony and I'm not even a Mopar fan. Keep up the good work.
It's hard to find someone like you, to talk to, about this exact subject! Thanks for all the info!!!
This may be the first video I ever share. And, subtly probably one of your most important yet Tony! Great! Stuff!
Thanks for the education. I learn something new every time I come to your page.
I'm so glad we have tony he has helped me tremendously it's so hard to find good no bullshit information I bought a high volume for my 408 I put in my pickup because everyone tells you to but what your saying makes complete sense I'll use thinner oil to compensate for now lol
I DID get something out of this,Uncle Tony!I always thought you needed high oil pressure.This falls under the category of "less is more". This is good to know!
Uncle Tony you are the best! At age 67 I finally understand the highs and lows of engine oil pressure. Thanks
Thanks Tony for the teaching you share
Happy Thanksgiving Tony. I love your channel.
If you've ever used an electric drill to prime an engine you can really Feel the resistance of moving the oil.
Great Video..
Great info Tony!!!
Needed this information. Thank you Tony!!!
Good vid UT.. you pretty much hit everything spot on. I absolutely love the basics being explained. Your waaayyy better then I am at explaining why. I just tell people to do it or not to.. thanks for the upload! (5 psi per 1k + about 10 at idle is all you need if you are running 100% stock internals meaning no mods at all) if it's modded.. take the 7.. oil weight is a huge thing.. it would be cool to see your opinion on higher pump, lower weight.. vs higher weight less pressure. There's a serious science to this. And you can explain it better then anybody. Thanks again UT
Excellent video! Thank you. That helps explain why my big block with a melling high volume pump with a hemi pickup gets so hot!
Great explanation, thanks for posting.
Tony. thank you for offering these educational moments.
Just what I needed to know. Thanks again UT.
Thanks Tony! Super information, great video!
UT, what makes you great , among other things is youre true passion !!! KUDOS to you man ..
3:12
I remember going through A school in the Navy; was taught oil has three functions; it cools, flushes, and lubricates.
Excellent study Tony.
Thanks Tony, your advice is once again, spot on. Running a budget ring gapped turbo 360 and 351w. Both with stock oil pumps, both work really well. Windage trays in both sumps.
One of the top misunderstood engine rebuild topics!
I think I read about this in a Hotrod magazine once back in the 80's.
Glad you addressed it here again.
243K miles SBC with condensation in the oil. 5lbs Oil Pressure at warm idle. Wore out? Wrong.
Factory Dash gauge was wrong. PVC valve at TBI clogged. Installed manual gauge = 20lbs at warm idle. Cleared PVC system= no water in oil pan. Sometimes its the little problems. Rebuilt the Motor then found the real problems. Completely clogged PVC tube in TBI unit was missed by 3 mechanics.
Thank you so much, I could never find any help with oil pressure in my LS2 so this is just what I needed
Again, You are bang on Tony.
I grew up with the old - and I mean "old" school mechanics who had dirt floors in there shops and nicotine and oil / varsol permanently stained fingers. But man O man, did they know how to make mechanical things work and work better than stock in a lot of cases. I wish I could have absorbed more of their wisdom and knowledge but I retained as much as I could, and that knowledge has given me a great base to be able to work on or "hot rod" the modern engines as well.
Love your channel and you knowledge man 👍 I would happily push a broom around your shop and even clean the toilets just to be able to be around you when you're thinking out loud.
PS; I'm 60 years old, so it ain't no spring chicken doin the talk'n here.
This video is loaded with info!! Thanks so much!
I learned something today, thank you
TONY, YOU'RE THE MAN. THANKS FOR SHARING.
Tony: Thanks for the insight into oil pressure and it's causes. Any information about oil pumps, especially SBC oil pumps, is greatly appreciated as well. The reason for this is that I can't find a great deal of information about oil pumps with the cause and effect situations in my studies. Again, you help is well taken seriously.
I remember my dad had a truck that when it was hot the oil pressure went to 0. Ran well. The real bearing ability comes from hydrodynamic pressure. This is from the “ wedge” that is built from spinning parts. That hydrodynamic pressure is from the lubricant not the oil pump. If you do the math 50 psi will not stop engine wear if there is no hydrostatic pressure.
I use to sit in smokey yunick office when my old man use to talk to him. U were a big help I have a 300 6 banger at idle is has about 7 psi it has 210000 on it
WELL SAID! Just that simple! A pump creates flow while a restriction creates pressure 8 why it's necessary!
Great and concise info!
Great information! Very well explained! Thank You!
Thank you for the knowledge.
Great content. Spot on
I'm so happy he got it right concerning oil pressure. So many places wrongly advise high oil pressure is a goal. Not just cars but many heavy duty truck engines also run with low oil pressure from the factory. My International 392 cu in engine has been running less than 10 psi at idle for more than 40 years and I don't baby that work truck.
So glad you brought up the loose builds and more flow = more heat leaves the journal and less resistance to flow takes a load off the system.. The primary purposes for lubrication is lubrication and includes cooling. I love the oil wedge comments and how the oil enters the journal- it's why the oil holes in the shafts within the journals are located where they are. To maintain the oil wedge, where it feeds into the journal plays into the place where the journal is put under load- the compression stroke and is to cushion the journal as it loads.
I hear other rebuild guys talking about journal radius and side clearances. This does play into how well the oil will flow through the bearing- too much clearance will result in an oil pressure drop in the system and the oil viscosity previously run with a different clearance won't provide a familiar result. When refitting old Dodge crank journals with fresh shells, what advice can you offer for appropriate clearance? Not just what the plastigage says, but side clearance. What kind of journal side radius should I check for on a rejuvenated shaft journal and should I be chamfering the shells? I realize that loose is good, but to much of a good thing can be bad, too. Thx in advance.
That was very interesting Tony. Thanks.
Definitely appreciate all your videos always helpful
Love ur abundance of knowledge, Thanks a lot for sharing.
Thank you UT!
Saw my old buddy Ron Ward in one of your videos. Great guy. Many of us miss the old days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great analysis.
Another excellent video. Thank you Tony!
Great video finally some true facts. Also I wish somebody would do a video of oil pressure vs oil volume, completely different things.
Love it learned in the late 70s about facing round track love the real old school info
Man utg you hit the nail right on the head with this video awesome job explaining this
Thank you for this. So interesting. This has put my mind at rest regarding my Healey 3000 oil pressure when engine is hot.
Luv the wisdom. Its like gettin ya papers, i used to know what it did ,but now i know why it does it.
Another Great Tutorial. Thanks
Another excellent lesson Uncle Tony
Cheers & stay safe😊
Really enjoyed this lesson .. Great video ..
My old 55 Studebaker 259 idles at 10 psi hot , I did a lot of clearance work to the oil pump and bearings too . Always thought that was low , but it is the way the engineers designed it . Thank you Tony , another Tony from Hemet , CA.
A Studebaker v8's pressure regulator is to the timing gear teeth, not at the pump. I run near 40psi all the time using 15w40 CC/CD type oils. Do you have the restrictor in line with your oil filter? otherwise you have more clearance than you should. Are you still using the floating oil pick up, and is its pivot not sucking air. If you are using a C4 oil filter, are you carrying your oil higher than the stick, or check the level before the filter drains back to the pan? I inverted the P-50 style filter on a few so the filter is always full. The oil relief valve is what oils the teeth on the timing gear. As a C4 style fills, the level in the pan drops. If using a 56 or newer pan, you are already short a quart. Last oil pump I did involved a little lapping to keep the plate close to the gears. Lastly how was your cam bearings? have fun
Great video!!!! This is Very necessary info!!!!👍👍
Damn Tony,
I think this is the best video you have ever done.
Bad ass!
One of your best videos my friend.
completely makes sense!!! definitely got some outa that, thanks!
Good info for durability. External oil cooler helps in certain applications. VW bug were air cooled and oil cooled as were Buells. Early engines had no pump, just splash but they had solid lifters, low RPM. Oil pressure on old engines was low like 4 psi at idle, again low compressio, low RPM, solid lifters.
Great information.