This should be a video about how not to install flashing for evaporative coolers. 1. Under pressure driven hydraulic force, water can gain entry between the gaps in the sheet metal. 2. Asphaltic Sealant needs to be placed on the base felt extending 6" around the entire perimeter of the ducts base and 4" up the sides. Then an evaporative cooler roof Jack is installed over the felt / base paper and secured with screws , not nails. 4. Piercing the sheathing with a nail gun at a place underneath the coolers pan, can present an entry point for water. I've been on many jobs where the customer tells me that when it rains water is leaking into the attic or down the side of the duct.
@@theroofguysutah Oh, good job roof guys. I service, repair and install swamp coolers for a living. I thought there was something a little hinky about the video. Again thanks.
@@anthonygonzalez7488 Do you know anyone in Northern California, who installs/repairs swamp coolers? Ours wasn't installed with the roof jack, just sits on the roof, and of course leaked inside.
Wrong. First step flashing diverts the water away from the corner, should be a good 3" down. I usually bring it down to where the front wall flashing is. Then I put in a dummy shingle (a thin part of the shingle, about 4/5" just to hide the side of the flange, looks great and it doesn't affect it at all) you'll just have to double up two steps to extend past the height of the shingle. You shouldn't have the nails that close to the chimney (or whatever it may be) should only have two nails in the top corner, furthest away from the chimney when doing step flashing. Nailing on the bottom part of the flashing isnt needed and if water were to get under the shingles, it's not going to have any room to divert itself off of the flashing without hitting the nail. Keep the shingle about a 1/4" to 1/2" away from the wall to allow for water flow, otherwise it increases the chance of water wicking underneath the shingle if its butted tight against the wall. Same goes for vents and plumbing stacks. The last piece of step flashing is correctly done. But still isn't nailed properly. Although it is better to wrap the piece of step around the corner instead of cutting the excess off. Just makes it so it holds tight to the wall better. The back pan shouldn't be wrapped around like that, should have it extend out atleast 3/4". Then it should be folded down like a dog ear to shield rain from getting in that corner. Always put one shingle under the back pan, then the row above it should have atleast 3" of room to allow water to flow out and not wick under the shingle and sit there. Also helps at keeping leaves and such from getting stuck back there. Should have a positive slope to the back pan so water doesn't just sit, but not to a point that one side has a huge gap on the underside. Learn how to do things properly before posting a how to on CZcams. I hope that someone else did the counter flashing on this otherwise it will most likely leak within the shingles lifespan.
Thanks for your video. Dreading a swamp cooler replacement.
Happy roofing guys... could not have been more ...
This should be a video about how not to install flashing for evaporative coolers.
1. Under pressure driven hydraulic force, water can gain entry between the gaps in the sheet metal.
2. Asphaltic Sealant needs to be placed on the base felt extending 6" around the entire perimeter of the ducts base and 4" up the sides.
Then an evaporative cooler roof Jack is installed over the felt / base paper and secured with screws , not nails.
4. Piercing the sheathing with a nail gun at a place underneath the coolers pan, can present an entry point for water.
I've been on many jobs where the customer tells me that when it rains water is leaking into the attic or down the side of the duct.
We sealed the flashing and riveted it to the swamp cooler ducting. We should have put that in the video.
@@theroofguysutah Oh, good job roof guys. I service, repair and install swamp coolers for a living. I thought there was something a little hinky about the video. Again thanks.
@@anthonygonzalez7488 Do you know anyone in Northern California, who installs/repairs swamp coolers? Ours wasn't installed with the roof jack, just sits on the roof, and of course leaked inside.
Wrong.
First step flashing diverts the water away from the corner, should be a good 3" down. I usually bring it down to where the front wall flashing is. Then I put in a dummy shingle (a thin part of the shingle, about 4/5" just to hide the side of the flange, looks great and it doesn't affect it at all) you'll just have to double up two steps to extend past the height of the shingle.
You shouldn't have the nails that close to the chimney (or whatever it may be) should only have two nails in the top corner, furthest away from the chimney when doing step flashing. Nailing on the bottom part of the flashing isnt needed and if water were to get under the shingles, it's not going to have any room to divert itself off of the flashing without hitting the nail. Keep the shingle about a 1/4" to 1/2" away from the wall to allow for water flow, otherwise it increases the chance of water wicking underneath the shingle if its butted tight against the wall. Same goes for vents and plumbing stacks. The last piece of step flashing is correctly done. But still isn't nailed properly. Although it is better to wrap the piece of step around the corner instead of cutting the excess off. Just makes it so it holds tight to the wall better.
The back pan shouldn't be wrapped around like that, should have it extend out atleast 3/4". Then it should be folded down like a dog ear to shield rain from getting in that corner. Always put one shingle under the back pan, then the row above it should have atleast 3" of room to allow water to flow out and not wick under the shingle and sit there. Also helps at keeping leaves and such from getting stuck back there. Should have a positive slope to the back pan so water doesn't just sit, but not to a point that one side has a huge gap on the underside.
Learn how to do things properly before posting a how to on CZcams.
I hope that someone else did the counter flashing on this otherwise it will most likely leak within the shingles lifespan.
As long as it dont leak or fly off its a fine flashing job. That metal looks real thin tho
You forgot to tear off the old roof
You must have rough kneecaps