Do this before going on Via Ferrata! - Don't take it for granted! - Via Ferrata beginner guide
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2024
- This is a Via Ferrata beginner guide explaining the basics of climbing Via Ferrata.
After uploading this video I released a Beginners Via Ferrata series.
You can find it here: bit.ly/ViaFerrataForBeginners
If you never been on a Via Ferrata, want to have the basic knowledge before renting or buying your equipment and go climbing a Via Ferrata, this introductory guide might be the best start.
00:00:00 Introduction to Via Ferrata
00:00:42 List of basic Via Ferrata gear essential for climbing on Via Ferrata
00:01:36 Showcasing how to fit the climbing harness for Via Ferrata
00:03:30 Presentation of the Via Ferrata Set (an essential Via Ferrata item)
00:04:27 Resting on Via Ferrata - The Y-shaped lanyard with carabiners used as a Via Ferrata resting system
00:05:17 The helmet & gloves
00:05:37 Detailed tutorial - How to use a Via Ferrata Set
00:08:56 Detailed tutorial - How to use a resting system on Via Ferrata
00:11:28 Fatal mistakes on Via Ferrata - One of the deadliest mistake people do on Via Ferrata
00:15:23 An example of good practice of using the resting system on Via Ferrata
00:16:45 Introduction to Via Ferrata fall factor - The big danger of Via Ferrata
00:18:36 Final demonstration - How to climb on Via Ferrata
00:19:46 Closing & Goodbye! - The end of this Via Ferrata beginners guide & short tutorial
BE ADVISED! I'm not a professional guide, mountaineer, alpine climber or Via Ferrata climber; only an enthusiastic mountaineer eager to try help and explain my experience so far.
While recording this video I didn't wear the gloves or the helmet. This doesn't mean that I don't wear a helmet or gloves while I climb. It only means that outside (at the time of the recording) were 2°C and I choose to keep my hat on in an environment I knew is safe for me to do so.
Now looking back, I see the error! Maybe at times people doubt the validity of what someone is trying to convey just because in my case I wasn't wearing the helmet or the gloves or maybe some people only learn by visual queues and direct example and not by listening, reading and comprehending the message. In this case the message is: "when you climb you should wear a helmet and preferable also gloves".
Also, there is a tendency in the rock climbing community to not wear a helmet. Here is an article on the subject: www.climbing.com/people/why-climbers-should-wear-helmets/
Please be advised that in my video I clearly state that "when you climb you should have a helmet" while at the same time I showcase this as being one of the basic pieces of equipment to have while climbing a Via Ferrata.
Not for last on this topic, my personal opinion is that every Via Ferrata climber should wear gloves as well. For some, wearing gloves may reduce performance or even expose to injury but in my case, gloves have a positive impact on my climb!
After releasing this video I got a series of comments and messages on various topics.
To cover most of them I created a complete "Beginners Guide to Via Ferrata" you can find here: czcams.com/play/PLEBdxAzNRa5MHHERm-yBAv-TWgdz70TjL.html
Multiple times, people commented or messaged me with regards to nutrition and best practices on how to stay fed and well hydrated on Via Ferrata. I didn't discussed this topics in this video because the subject is relative to each individual, personal diets, habits, personal possibility, etc. As a general rule in mountaineering, you should always make sure you are well hydrated based on personal circumstances and surrounding context while bearing in mind that long exists and long approaches combined with demanding and long Via Ferrata require proper hydration and the necessary nutrition. What this means shall be decided at an individual level by each one of us!
Thank you so much for making this great video and sharing your expertise. You made a very good video with lots of examples and information. Very helpful and I will be using your information to be a safer climber.
Thank you, fantastic introduction video! I cannot wait to try Via Ferrata!
Wow, thanks for the clear instructions on how to via farratta the right way. Looking forword to more awesome and informative videos from you..thanks...
Fabulous explanation and instruction. Thank you for this 👍🏻
Amazing video just what I was looking for!
This was a great video, best on the topic, so far!
Thank you! This was a great explanation and answered everything I needed. Hopefully doing my first one next summer
Thanks for this clear instruction, all newbies should watch this, very important.
Thank you for sharing so freely! I've learnt a lot and it's super helpful in understanding the technical and safety details!
❤️
Been looking for half an hour for useful video about installing set to harness. Thank you sir!
Thank you so much @7erikcr.
If you want more on the topic, check this episode of my Via Ferrata for Beginners tutorial: czcams.com/video/7n0h0jr-7VE/video.html
Great video. Clear, concise, well presented and informative. Exactly as an instructional video (or presentation) should be. Thank you. I live in an area with a lot of VF routes and want to add this to my summer sports. This was hugely useful. Cheers. 🙌
Good luck in your Via Ferrata venture! I've just returned from a solo climb to Grand Paradiso in Italy and all the experienced gained on Via Ferrata helped me where I had to scramble or in general where I had to cross intimidating or difficult exposed sections.
I hope Via Ferrata will make you as happy and will have such a positive impact as it did on me.
@@JetSetYourself Thank you.
probably the best video i have seen on this
Great video and Tutorial. I've never done a Ferrata before, but I'm thinking of doing my first one. I definitely learned a lot from your video. Thank you.
Hello Anthony. Thank you for the kind appreciation. It helps me a lot to know my work is of gcood use.
The other day at the climbing gym I was thinking that there (at the gym) it is a safe environment. Outdoors, out on the mountain you are on your own it is real life and it requires you to carefully consider your situation. If you make a mistake at the gym the majority of injuries are sprained ankles or wrists. On the mountain, anything can happen.
When you go, take it step by step. During your first time voice outloud in your mind the steps (I now search for a stable resting position because I get ready to make the anchor point transition, I now move above the bolt the first carabiner while the second remains connected where it is, I now connect the second carabiner while the first stays connected above the bold and so forth).
Even now, after so long I still stop and check my whole system before starting difficult transition. I will soon post a video where I speak about how I was about to make a possibly fatal mistake under the influence of sleep depravation. Making of double checking the system one of your habits (alongside correctly making the anchor point transition and efficiently climbing various elements on your route) will keep you safe out there and of course will enhance your experience.
These types of videos has probably saved countless lives! I will be doing via ferrata in Italy this summer 23!! I’ll be in Italy for 3months can’t wait! I bought a via ferrata set. Where can I find a resting lanyard? What are they called? I will definitely be doing easier ones before some more challenging ones. Thank you from the time and care you put into your videos!
Hello Mike. I envy you. I can only do three weeks in Italy and if lucky maybe I will return once summer goes away. Three months is just amazing. Will give you time to take it step by step, with calm, to enjoy every bit of it. With regards to Via Ferrata or mountaineering will give you space to recover. Well done!
Thank you for the kind words. I myself hope my work helps you. It is why I'm doing it.
As part of my permanent Via Ferrata climbing system, for resting I use Ypsilon from Climbing Technology. For me, it works very well. Please see the link to the product page. I don't know from where you will buy it and because of this I will have to leave it with you to search for the online shop that might sell it.
If you never been on a Via Ferrata and you will go alone, try go on one with a short, populated approach, no more than Level C (but this if you are fit and like taking risks or you have someone with you to help in need). Try to find one with short vertical segments, no overhangs possible, but with a bridge, some exposed verticality and a German style installed safety steel cable (tensioned). Make sure to have a resting system with you. If you don't buy the Ypsilon then buy something like Switch from Edelrid.
www.climbingtechnology.com/en/professional-en/textile_anchors/ypsilon_
edelrid.com/int-en/sport/lanyards-shop/switch
Hi ! The resting lanyard it’s called “cordino di sosta” . Have fun 😊
Thanks a lot for the content.
I've been practicing climbing indoors for years, and it's typically the kind of video I wish I saw before my first via ferratta a few weeks back :)
No one explained to me to do this before, it makes a lot of sense.
Thank you !
Thank you Benjamin. It means the world knowing that my work is appreciated and useful.
A subscriber invited me to climb together probably the most difficult Via Ferrata in Italy and he showed me a picture with his hands after pulling himself against the cable (in place of trying to properly climb it) the entire length. They were full of blisters. He told me his second time was way more easier just because he gave himself the time to find the holds and use the safety steel cable less. In the beginning I myself didn't knew that pulling cable (for example) makes things worse.
Unfortunately many times you don't find proper resources and lately on my own skin I realised that in multiple cases the lack of information comes intentionally (I will soon post a video about my solo climb of Gran Paradiso in Italy and explain it there).
Thank you again! I hope you will have amazing times out there on the mountain. Everything is much better when we find the time to escape daily life into the outdoors.
Your explanation is excellent.
Thank you so much .
Thank you so much for your kind appreciation. It makes me happy to know about the good job I did. It is a big motivator!
Very clear. You are an excellent instructor.
Thank you! It makes me happy.
Very useful video, thank you!
Thank you for a such a clear and complete instructional video ;)
Bug hug 🤗
super clear, thank you very much
Great informative guide.Thanks (Y)
Very grateful! I'm moving to Andorra soon and this was highly recommended. Think I'll spend a little more time on a practice wall before hitting any mountains, but nice to know what I'd be getting myself into.
Congrats and good luck in Andorra. I hope this move will improve the quality of your life. As we both know we only have one life and we should, to the best of our ability, try live it fully.
I salute your initiative to first spend some time on a practice wall. This will give you a small advantage when facing the mountain. Please make sure no matter what you do on the mountain to actually never fall. If you can avoid ever falling than is perfect. Good luck!
Thanks a lot for this great video!!❤
❤️
Thank you for the kind explaination😊
With great pleasure ❤️
Best tutorial!! 🙌🏻
Amazing tips .. hats off ...
very informative, thanks !!!
this really eases my thoughs on how quickly I can train to do a via ferrata!
Great lesson with some great wisdom.
Thank you!
I like multipitch climbing a lot more. I feel the rock more and i feel a lot safer. What people don't recognize with via ferreta is that you are only partially secure, so you shouldn't make any shunt ever in the whole of your ferreta career EVER because there is still a lot force in it and in many scenarios you either have to be lucky that some dude has some rescue equipment like a 20m rope to belay you and also in overhangs it often ends in difficult heli rescues bc people cant get out on their own and you cannot continue to downclimb once your set has opened.
With the ammount of rookies going well above their physical level and often 4 to 5 people hanging in one part of the steel rope, it is sometimes very dangerous.
People, don't underestimate this. At least within mulitpitch climbing, most people are somewhat experienced and a fall into the rope most of the times ain't a big deal (except you go some extreme routes with like 10m between bolts).
Stay secure and have fun people!
Great analysis Marcus. I have nothing to add because you are on point. Thank you for sharing this with us.
To be fair, Via Ferrata is made for tourists and rookies and also isn't comparable to rock climbing. Let's say it like this (and you pointed this out already) if you will rock climb a Via Ferrata the risk of falling grows exponentially and with this you expose yourself to big danger (as you say, in your entire Via Ferrata carrier you don't want to fall, never, because a fall on Via Ferrata is so many times worse than falling while rock climbing).
As you were saying beein a rookie on Via Ferrata you are prone to big danger compared to an experienced rock climber. An experienced Via Ferrata climber will be exposed because the Via Ferrata per its design is not as safe as rock climbing. It is true that getting into Via Ferrata is way easier than rock climbing while rock climbing without knowing what you are doing is way more dangerous than climbing a Via Ferrata without having a clue about what you do.
I hope you don't mind me adding my own words that practically convey exactly what you've already spoke. I wasn't trying to diminish the value of your comment but to make sure everyone will understand why you are so right but also why rock climbing and Via Ferrata cannot easily be compared.
@@JetSetYourself I found your video very clear, precise and educational - thanks. And your response to this comment was very good and professional. Regards, Primoz
Great introduction to safety. Planning my first ever VF with OnTopMountaineering in the Dolomites. Thank you!
I hope you booked their 5 days Via Ferrata experience. By reading on their website it appears a 5 days full workout. Good luck and hopefully you will share with us your experience.
@@JetSetYourself yes that is the one. Hopefully not too tough for me but your instructions give me confidence.
Thanks a lot, great tutorial for an excited beginner like me. I was climbed before just in boulder club, tomorrow I will try via ferrata the very first time
Good luck tomorrow. Please remember, Via Ferrata is real life. Bouldering in the gym is like 99.9% safe. You might sprain an ankle or a finger but that's pretty much all. On Via Ferrata is pure nature. Starting the approach and until you complete the exit anything can happen. On the Via Ferrata itself remember to never take shortcuts. It might seam safe to take a shortcut but you never know what will happen next. Never, ever, no matter what, never disconnect both carabiners at the same time. One at a time and please clip them in reverse.
Good luck! And have fun. Via Ferrata is a lot of fun. I'm not travelling away from a day on Via Ferrata. It was a good day. By mistake I knocked my knee into the wall. Now it hurts.
@@JetSetYourself Thank you for your kind advice, of course I will be as careful as possible, and I will climb not alone, but with an experienced group. The route will not be too difficult. I just cant wait to try it, I like to push my limits.
I wish you all the best, sorry for your hurt and thank you very much! Vivien from Hungary
If you go with a large group the peer pressure will make you win your fear way easier. It is why is best to go with two or more friends. If you go alone the experience becomes way harder because alone you will find all the reasons to give up and be worried. In a group, if they do it, if nothing happens to them and if they don't complain it means we should do it as well 😊🤗😂.
I look forward to hearing back from you. Hopefully you will like it so much that today will only be your first time from the many times to come.
@@JetSetYourself it was awesome! The boys were very patient and helped me along. The tightrope walk over the precipice was scary but I overcame my own limitations, as you wrote. 😃 Of course my legs were shaking but I did it! I am extremely proud and elated. 🤪😎 I can't wait for the next beginner's course, maybe I can dare to do it on my own
Have a great day!
To all of you: You have to try this 🥳🤩
So happy for you! Even if I just been on a Via Ferrata yesterday I somehow envy you. I would've loved to be there and have the excitement you got (right now is heavily raining here). Do you mind if I ask what Via Ferrata was? Out of curiosity. Maybe next spring on my way to Italy through Hungary I will stop by and try it myself.
Pleaze, wait before going all alone. Based on their difficulty level Via Ferrata are safe or less. Ideally you will go fully prepared for the worst to happen when alone. For this case you have to have enough equipment on you to help you get from the most common case scenarios (believe it or not but bad things can happen) and also all the tools and equipment that shall guarantee survival in worry some situations (what if is summer, hot outside, long approach, long exit and no people that day on the trail and you end up with a broken ankle and this forces you to spend the night there in cold and maybe rain?) These are only worst case scenarios but when going alone you have to think about it and go prepared. I don't say this to discourage or to cut your enthusiasm. I go alone almost all the times but I always have with me the right tools to increase my chances of returning to the base. Last spring I climbed Gran Paradiso in Italy solo. Solo climbing on a glacier like this is a no-no. Every mountaineering was surprised (probably shocked) to see me alone and back at the hut they waited for me wandering if I will make it. And they've been right, the probability of something bad happening is so high. I almost fell into a crevase (very dangerous) and what saved me was the volume of the backpack that created support surface and helped me not to slide through the snow all the way down into the crevase and I had rocks falling from the side because snow was melting and I wasn't supposed to take that route back but I did because of an error in planning and judgement. Solo is dangerous. Make sure you have someone to at least go after help in case you cannot call anyone (no GSM signal or no ability to reach your phone).
Thank you again for your kind comments and for letting everyone else know how fun Via Ferrata is. It is fun and it makes you feel unique emotions. The legs shaking so badly (same happened to me my first times), our fear for our own survival, the panic, the inability to advance when it gets too scary, all them are unique emotions very hard to reproduce in another safe environment (Via Ferrata is very safe if all rules are followed and no nasty fall occurs).
I'm so happy for you!
Thank you! I’m fascinated by this, climbing huge walls without having to be an expert climber. Excellent video!
Thank you! I too am fascinated about the door Via Ferrata opens to less experienced rock climbers or people that never rock climb. To me Via Ferrata is good because I can go places without needing a belay partner.
@@JetSetYourself Have you seen the longest via feratta in Switzerland video? I would love to do that someday. Yes, very cool way to climb.
Do you mean the Leukerbad Gemmi Daubenhorn Valais Via Ferrata? I know about it. I need more experience before attempting a solo climb of that. I will definitely do it now (with the first occasion) if someone joins me but overall I think I need more experiences before going into something that extreme.
@@JetSetYourself
czcams.com/video/0JApzU5KcUw/video.html
Yes, I think that’s it. And yes, if I ever did it I wouldn’t be alone, that’s for sure! 😆 👍
Thanks ! Your explanation are very clear and you explain why doing it, which is great ! May be you should demonstrate the twisting effect (each time you change, one goes after the other and always in the same way) as lots of beginners are affected by this and as a result some take both at the same time sometimes which is obviously a very bad idea....
Thank you Mat! I hear you. I will create a tutorial on this issue that will showcase the best strategy to handling it.
Hello, very intresting and helpful! Happy new year! Maybe once i ll do this too
I've texted you on Instagram!
Excellent instructor!!!!
Thank you!
Nice one, thank you for this video
Thank you!
Great video! recently got into boulders and wall climbing and the mountains are calling me! I would love to do a via ferrata
The big advantage of Via Ferrata is that you can solo climb. None of them are identical. Bouldering is more about super body strength in my opinion. Wall climbing is about technique. Via Ferrata gives you access to sides of the mountain otherwise you cannot access and overall it help experience heights and challenges unmatched by anything else. I hope discovering Via Ferrata and maybe also doing a bit of mountaineering and winter mountaineering will make your escapes more dynamic and fascinating.
exactly! that's why I can't wait to start doing via ferret's! insane places made accessible@@JetSetYourself
Best Suggestions!!
Thank you!
I always use the rest strap at the start to test the harness to make sure everything is working before I start
Yes, very good practice. At the beginning of the Via Ferrata testing is essential. Should be mandatory. Helps to spot errors that can be made when putting the system together or to highlight obvious issues that are not visible at a glance. Human error is the main case of accidents on Via Ferrata. Testing the system ensures no error was committed. It can at any time happen to strap the lanyards wrongly. Testing will help see that. Sometimes the equipment is old and will break under load. At first glance you will not see any weaknesses but the second you put it under load will break. Isn't this simple test saving lives? I will say yes.
@@JetSetYourself In Switzerland there is (at least) one accident/month on our c.100 VF routes (likely more) and they are often fatal. In most cases it was determined that there was nothing wrong with the VF equipment & thus the accident must be due to human error - people unclipping or going too fast. I have even seen people on hard VF routes without equipment - which is just crazy!
Great video
Thank you! :)
Thank you!
Thanks!
I feel a bit targeted. Yes, I was on a couch when I watched.... I can't find a VF closer than 3 hrs by car away from me, so it will be a bit until i get to try!
You are in luck. The closest Via Ferrata for me is a 3h flight + a 2h to 3h drive with a rental. I usually kill a full weekend and tones of money to just get to climb once 😂😜
Great video. Headed to France/Switzerland this summer of 23 and will be doing a VF. I would like to know the specifics of the carbineers and shock absorber and the resting setup you are using. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hello Matt. Thank you for the kind appreciation.
I tested multiple Via Ferrata sets and I find Camp Kinetic Rewind Pro to be the better fit for me. I like the carabiners from Edelrid Cable Kit VI but I find myself in a better place with the Camp Kinetic Rewind Pro set. In this video and most of my other videos you will see me with the CAMP Via Ferrata Set and only rarely with the Edelrid. I have a Black Diamond set but I'm not using because the carabiners are not handy and the shock absorber is mechanical. The shock absorber from CAMP is larger but it never bothered me. The Edelrid shock absorber is very small. Both sets are to the standard so, don't worry about safety. They both are supposed to do the same job. The carabiners from Camp Kinetic Rewind Pro provide certain finesse but it might be that at times they require increased attention. The carabiners from Edelrid Cable Kit VI are bulkier but they do the job no matter how new to Via Ferrata one is.
For my case, at the moment, I find myself better with Camp. I plan investing more (or just spending more money) and try Petzl as well. At the moment I have no reason to move away from Camp. I already bought a new set to replace the old (the old one had two years and given the frequency I used it, it is best to have it changed).
For resting I use Climbing Technology Y-psilon with Petzl Vertigo Via Ferrata carabiner plus the Climbing Technology K-Classic technology carabiner. I find myself better with these two carabiners. I put the Petzl on the longer lanyard and the Climbing Technology carabiner on the shorter lanyard. I have multiple systems for resting but this one is just complete and versatile. No matter what I tried the Y-psilon does the better job. I use it for resting, as a third arm on horizontal segments or bridge crossings. It is versatile. As you can see, both carabiners are rated for Via Ferrata. I don't advise using other carabiners (Singing Rock has an identical carabiner with the K-Classic and I think Kong sells a similar one as well).
Climbing Technology has an alternative to Y-psilon and I think petzl sells something similar as well.
Buying all this equipment for just one go on Via Ferrata is a matter of either not looking at money when it comes to personal safety or to just not have a budget issue.
Equipment can also be rented. Personally I will not do that on the mountain. I think everything related to the mountain is too dangerous to be worth any risk (plus, it happens that my hard work on my full-time job helps me afford buying all the equipment).
The rule here is; please make sure you have with you not only the Via Ferrata Set bud also a resting system that both are easy to handle. You don't want to get unnecessarily tired or to struggle when you need to just get out of a situation. The gear needs to provide help and support not to be a hustle in using.
Via Ferrata is safe. Please try not to fall. Even hitting the wall with the knee can be enough to put you in pain and even maybe make it very hard to complete the route or to exit. Use the cable as much possible. Will burn your arms faster but is safer. Rock climbing a Via Ferrata (there where is possible) makes it easier but the risk of falling is higher.
Hi fellow Via Ferrata enthousiast! Really love your videos and how well you explain everything.
Maybe I missed it somewhere but can you tell which Via Ferata and where is that one on 0:10 in te video?
Kind regards!
Thank you Rick. Reading your message makes me smile.
The Via Ferrata you ask about is in Romania sitting in the gorges (Cheile Galbenului) near a place named Baia de Fier. The name of it is Spirala Muierilor and it is a Level D.
Here is one of the videos I made on it: czcams.com/video/tYsesnIuaGc/video.html
Un video muy ilustrativo! gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
Tengo una pregunta, puedes decirme ¿donde has comprado tu arnés? Gracias
Saludos cordiales desde España
Hola Tony. Thank you for you positive feedback.
I buy my gear from various websites (where by now I know is both at a good price and from fresh stock). I have a harness from Black Diamond and another one from Arc'teryx. I bought them from www.bergfreunde.eu but I also buy from www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en (this is based in Spain and they have fresh stocks, amazing prices)
@@JetSetYourself Gracias por tu pronta respuesta, echaré un vistazo para comprar el arnés mas recomendable para hacer vía ferrata. Seguiré tus consejos de hombre sabio.
Un abrazo amigo!
Have you considered using carabiners to attach the via ferrata set and resting lanyard to the belay loop on the harness instead of using "friction slip" knots? I've seen that "friction slip knots" reduce the amount of force the lanyard can withstand. But maybe using carabiners instead of friction slip knots is overkill since the via ferrata set already halves the amount of force when compared to a static lanyard. Curious if you see anyone use carabiners instead of making the knots.
The belay loop of a harness can take 15kN or more. Petzl has an article stating that our body can sustain a 12kN deceleration for 80KG mass. Edelrid has an article saying that a Via Ferrata set should withstand a 5m fall of a mass of 120KG and a maximum of 6kN. I also seen an Edelrid test where the conclusion was that at a fall of 5kN the body of the climber breaks before the gear. Another aspect is the knot. The knot is around the belay loop; in this case the stress on the lanyard is less. Big difference between knotting a lanyard and fixing the lanyard with a knot. Climbing Technology has a proprietary knot that keeps it rated 22KN.
Yes, I asked myself the same question ("Isn't safer to attach the Via Ferrata Set with a carabiner to the belay loop?"). The short answer is NO.
If you do so, the system becomes more complex and in case you miss-use the carabiner you expose yourself. Also, the carabiner will create movement during a fall and the magnitude of the forces exerted on the belay loop might increase and negatively affect it.
Of course, you have to always remember that our body will give up way before 15kN force; most probably way before 12kN as well.
For a resting system the lanyard will or should never see more than 1kN force. This is way more than 7kN (half of 15kN what is usually the rating of a lanyard used for resting). The Via Ferrata Set webbing is in general rated 22kN and it is expected to not withstand more than 6kN falling force (again, way less than 12kN which is almost the half of 22kN).
In theory at least, the Via Ferrata system if properly configured, maintained and installed should last above the limit of what our body can handle.
On the other hand, a carabiner is not safer during a fall. A carabiner can snap easier than a lanyard can break. Depending on the axis under stress or the bending of its structure a carabiner can hold less than 2kN (way less than 7kN as mentioned above). Also, carabiners are made to be part of fixed systems.
Finally, to touch this point of carabiners and Via Ferrata systems, if you fall and let's say the force is of 6kN in case the carabiner bends when stopping at the bolt then it might snap and break. Again, a carabiner snaps easy under the right conditions.
I don't recommend using a carabiner to connect the Via Ferrata set to the belay loops as a replacement to the knot!
you were very helpful to get me tarted . Thank you very much !
Hi nice to meet you 😊👍
A great video nicely explained (I have had some via Ferrata training and found this a great refresh 👍🙌)
Best wishes Simon
😊🙏🏼🏔
Subscribed 😊👍563 great content 👍
Hello Simon and thank you for finding it that valuable. It means a lot for me.
I will come with a refreshed version of this 25 minutes training video on January 1st 2023 (if everything aligns and I can stay in schedule). This year I got so many questions and did see so much on the mountain... I definitely have to do it again because will help people a lot.
@@JetSetYourself that would be good 👍 we don’t have many Via Ferrata in the UK so practicing what you learn isn’t easy 😞
But you video really helps bring it back to mind 😊🙏🏼👍
Best wishes Simon
Will look forward to your new video 👍🏔😊
@@SetForAdventures I know what you are saying. I always have to fly out from London if I want to spend time on the mountain. Lucky 🍀 me, I'm familiar with Italy 🇮🇹 and Romania 🇷🇴. For example, from Bucharest even if I don't rent a car I can always book a day trekking trip with organised groups (from Bucharest you even have Via Ferrata day tours). I mostly am renting a car (it gives me freedom). At the end of the day it ends up a bit cheaper than trying to go around the UK for high altitude trekking trips. I would love more options around the UK but we don't have them. Unfortunately (this is the landscape we get from nature)!
@@JetSetYourself definitely agree from London the mountains of Snowdonia, Lakeland fells or the highlands are a long way away some great climbs to be had not massive by absolute hight but some big sea level or near sea level elevation gains makes them tuff climbs.
I enjoyed the Carpathian Mountains in Romania 🇷🇴 around brashove stunning mountains 🏔 and fabulous place (long time ago though now )
Have a great weekend my friend
Best wishes Simon 😊🙏🏼🤝🏔
Very helpful video. I did my first via ferrata without realizing just how dangerous it can be. Luckily we didn't have a fall. Where is this Via Ferrata?
Thank you for taking the time to leave your comment. It makes me happy and glad that I could help.
I was filming this during my week in Romania at Baia de Fier where a cluster of 21 Via Ferrata has the potential of a real treat. From what I understood, by end of 2022 the number will grow to 27 Via Ferrata and the aim is to build up to 32 Via Ferrata by the end of 2023. Be advised that these Via Ferrata are labelled as «acrobatic» because they are not following a specific safety guideline. Any of them will take less than one hour to climb and as little as 7 minutes for some of the Level B Via Ferrata of this cluster.
I myself did all the mistakes possible during my first climb without realising the danger. When I now look at the laboratory tests and I see how a 80kg weight (I reach 105kg with clothing and gear) breaks a lanyard from just 1.5m height I do realise how lucky I was by not falling while making all mistakes.
I look forward to my next Via Ferrata adventure and I hope you do so too!
in addtion to the lanyard ( I got Petzl Scorpio Vertigo Lanyard)
what type of harness did you use,
I'm looking at some ultralightweight type like "Petzl TOUR Harness - Lightweight Harness for Glacier Travel and Ski Touring" Would it be sufficient for via Ferrata, or do I need a full climbing harness.
I'm planning on using it for Alta Via 2 route, its alot less extreme than yours.
Ultralight will not work. They are not made to take heavy falls. I have something ultra light from Petzl (I have to check which one) for mountaineering purposes. I will never use that on Via Ferrata or for climbing because it obviously cannot withstand the same loads. For Via Ferrata I go with Arcteryx AR395a. I also have something from Black Diamond and for a long time I thought is just right but Arcteryx proves to be comfortable. I like it.
It is Petzl Altitude what I have for mountaineering.
Thanks@@JetSetYourself
What would be your recommendation for Lanyard@@JetSetYourself
@@kl-ke9ec i bought for myself the Camp Kinetic Gyro Rewind Pro. I find myself very well with Camp Via Ferrata Sets. I have one from Edelrid and one from Black Diamond (this I don't recommend) and then four or five other Camp Via Ferrata Sets. As I was saying in the past, they all are certified. From a safety stand point they all are supposed to be equal. What changes is the comfort of using them. As said, I find myself very well with Camp Via Ferrata Sets.
Hi, could you give some advice on chosing the beginning Ferrara difficulty? As a reference, no fear of heights (rope access worker), some experience rock climbing, but not active, in good shape but not very strong. Will have time to do a single one, so don't want to "waste" the opportunity on something too easy, but wouldn't want to go over my head either.
Hello. I need to know where you can go climb a Via Ferrata or just pass me the list of what you think might be a good start and I can help you from there. If you are already accustomed to heights than a Level C might be the better start. Level D starts to get quite hard. You might make it but in general Level D Via Ferrata are either demanding (long and tiring) or difficult (short but aggressive). By not having experience you don't know how you will react under the pressure of a long or aggressive Level D. It is why is best to just settle with a Level C. If you plan to go with a friend then it gets even more complicated. If you plan to go alone, better to stay on the safer side. It might happen that you will find other people and peer pressure helps to overcome obstacles. At the same time being a beginner you might end up rushing it under peer and commit mistakes with no return. Best to choose if you can a Level C with a long approach, ideal shorter and easy exit and long enough to keep you entertained.
@@JetSetYourself thank you, level C sounds like the best compromise, not a total walk in the park, but I don't want any stress either, it's supposed to be fun after all :)
We'll be staying at Val Did Fassa, main objective is mountain biking, but it would be a sin not to go "climbing" as well. I'll probably end up going alone, as the rest of the group wants more like a walk in the mountains, I seem to be the only one even remotely interested in climbing.
@@piciu256 Hello. I wasn't able to find any Level C around Val di Fassa that I could recommend. In this case you either travel to the next best Level C Via Ferrata or you stick with a Level B (but you don't have many). They have very long approaches (the majority around the area). I don't know if you will have the time to get it done.
@@JetSetYourself will see, have time till September to make my mind.
Do you have a link where you bought the resting lanyard?
I bought it once from here: www.bergfreunde.eu/climbing-technology-ypsilon-lanyard-personal-tether/
and twice from here: www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/climbing-technology-ypsilon-sling/136347305/p
Please can you tell me where can i get rest strap with carabines like yours?
Hello. You can not find it as a set. You will have to buy separately each carabiner and the laniard. I don't know where you are to be able to search in your place but I can tell you what is made off: Climbing Technology Ypsilon (www.climbingtechnology.com/en/professional-en/textile_anchors/ypsilon_) Climbing Technology K-Classic (www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/carabiners/k-classic2/k-classic) and Petzl Vertigo Wire Lock (m.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/VERTIGO-WIRE-LOCK). I hope this helps!
@@JetSetYourself Thanks, very helpful!
Great video! I am going to Loen Norway for my first attempt at Via Ferrata. I consider myself athletic, but I do not have climbing experience. The easiest course at Loen is rated A/B/C. In your opinion, should a beginner attempt a C rated course?
The issue with jumping straight to C is the scare you will get and the psychological impact that will shake you a bit. Level C Via Ferrata should be easy to complete for athletic individuals. In general the difference between B and C is the introduction to really exposed sections, difficult segments that feel like Level D but are short enough to stay a C and of course, the introduction of elements that you usually don't find on Level B Via Ferrata (elements that require force, analysis before completion and some technique).
In your case, check the type of Via Ferrata rated Level C. Does it has artificial aids? Is it mostly on the vertical? Any difficult crossings?
You need climbing experience if it doesn't has artificial aids. Otherwise, remember to use your legs to push yourself up (not arms). When supporting the weight of your body with your arms make sure your arms are fully extended. If you have to pull yourself up with your arms make sure the arm is fully extended before pulling (this will force you to generate pulling force with a sweay of your hips). The lack of experience can translate in loss of equilibrium, slips that might make you fall short distances (for sure you will recover by grabbing anything you can with your arms, usually the safety steel cable) and in extreme cases if you really make this error, fall to the extent of your Via Ferrata Set.
If your never did Via Ferrata you will encounter elements that your body is not ready to solve. Will be your first time. You will have to be careful and not rush it. Take your time. Make sure you double check when making the transition at the anchor point (if you get scared or overwhelmed you will lose control and become prone to fatal errors and you have to be mindful of this because cognitively you will think you are in control but in reality you don't). Always find a good resting position before making the anchor point transition. If you cannot fall it means the transition will be done safely. Very important to do this. If you have rope bridges make sure you will use the right technique. Mental practice the safety steps before reaching the more difficult segments (being a beginner you don't have the reflex of following the Via Ferrata routine) out loud to hear yourself (now I can reach the next bolt, is about time to prepare for transition, now I search for a good resting position, now I move the first carabiner of the Via Ferrata Set, now I make sure is properly connected, now I move the second, now I test both, now I'm connected to the segment above me so I'm safer, now I'm to high above the bold so I'm in danger so I should be more careful, etc).
If you are not used to heights this is the day when you will discover the reaction of your mind and body. Get ready for the psychological impact and the energy depletion. Send me an email for more. Otherwise make sure you do your homework properly and expect (always) the unexpected (when I go somewhere new or where people say is extreme I always prepare for the worst even if at the end I realize for me it actually was fairly easy).
@@JetSetYourself Wow!! Thanks so much for the detailed feed back, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. I have watched several of your other videos and appreciate your insight and ability to simply break things down for the viewer. I think you nailed my biggest concern and that is the psychological impact component. I will certainly ask them about some of the questions you posed before committing to the climb. Thanks again!!
@@scottroberts8141 It's also important to know wether you have an experienced climber in your team that can give you useful climbing tips at least before the start. I take newbies to do ferrata on B/C where B is the dominant and it works fine. If you are in good shape a C should not be a problem at all if you have no fear of height. I recommend you to go right after a skilled climber and keep an eye on him at more advanced sections and ask for help if you feel like being in trouble. No worries, you'll get out of it for sure.
I hope it helps and you will have lots of fun! Ferrata is hands down the best! :)
@@JetSetYourself We just returned for our trip. Things went well. Fortunately, the heights did not bother me, having said that it was definitely both physically and mentally taxing. I certainly feel that watching your videos helped both me and my wife complete the course as we mentally reviewed the mechanical steps you talk about. I had a much easier time than my wife, I think primarily because of my height advantage and ability to more easily reach various holds. My wife was a champ and despite some scrapes and scratches on her elbows and knees was able to finish. Thanks again!
@@RidleyS79 Thanks for the input. My wife was able to climb next to our guide and it certainly helped her complete the course.
What is that ferrata at the start named? The one with the twisted ladder?
"Via Ferrata delle Aquile" in Paganella, Italy 🇮🇹
thank youuu@@JetSetYourself
4:38 What is the professional name for this kit. Maybe a link where you can buy it?
It is from Climbing Technology. The name is YPSILON.
I bought mine from tradeinn.com. Another on-line retailer (and more reliable in Europe) is bergfreunde.eu
I will paste the links bellow:
www.climbingtechnology.com/en/professional-en/textile_anchors/ypsilon_
www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/climbing-technology-ypsilon-sling/136347305/p?queryID=e436c08c5957baca9dbbac5d5105d3bb
www.bergfreunde.eu/climbing-technology-ypsilon-lanyard-personal-tether/
@@JetSetYourself Thank you for your answer
Can I use a daisy chain for resting?
Yes, you can but I advise against using a daisychain at all. If you want to take this approach to resting better consider Multi Chain Evo from Climbing Technology (it acts like a daisychain but it eliminates the risk of failure presented by the daisychains).
If you already have a daisychain and want to reuse that yes you can use it. The issue with such lanyards is the length. Will somehow sit in your way. The advantage of a daisychain is that you can clip two different carabiners and in this way get two different lengths for resting which is good.
so' if we fall from a resting position, we are unprotected by the shock absorbor?
If you properly use the Via Ferrata Set you are always protected by the shock absorber no matter your situation. I repeat, the condition is to properly utilise the Via Ferrata Set.
What if you fall and the system deploys in the middle of the path? Thank you
It depends. There are many factors that will influence your decision making. Ideally you will have with you a backup Via Ferrata Set. The probability of someone having another Via Ferrata Set in their backpack is less than 1% (or lower).
A good practice is to have with you a good resting system. The resting system will become your main aid in such case scenario. The recommendation is to fix yourself with the resting system and wait for help (after calling for such). The rapid response when you call for help shall be another Via Ferrata climber bringing a set from a climber that completed the route. If it happens that you are alone and you know will be less probable to complete the route, but you can call for help, you fix yourself into the resting system and wait. What if you cannot call for help? Then you have to assess your situation and decide what to do next. Usually, going down a Via Ferrata is harder than going up but, if you don't know what to expect going forward and you are confident with what is behind you, maybe is best to descend (you will in this case use both the deployed Via Ferrata Set and the resting system. I recently released a video where I demonstrate how to use a Prusik to help yourself. With a prusik (and you can invent one with one of your Via Ferrata Set lanyards (after it deployed) you create friction with the safety steel cable and in case you fall you hope for a smoother fall (the Prusik will attempt to break for you). Once the Via Ferrata Set deploys you are in big trouble because a) your whole system is not static and b) it might be that your harness is no longer as reliable. Everything you will do on your own will be against the odds. You will have to assess your situation and see what risks you can actually take and of them which one gives you better odds.
For my case, when I go on difficult routes I either have a secondary Via Ferrata Set in my backpack or most probably a third arm. I have the Ferrata.Bloc from AustiAlpine (this is not a protective equipment item but only an aid for going up on the vertical) or a system build with dynamic rope and a device from Kong. I also use as my main resting system the Y-psilon from Climbing Technology. One way or another on unknown routes or when I'm alone on difficult routes I will have wither the Ferrata.Bloc or the other third arm system. This will help me improve my odds.
Going back to the theoretical question and the closer to reality case scenario. The best two options are to sit and wait while help arrives or (in case there is no option to get help) to decide which way you will go and use the deployed Via Ferrata Set combined with your resting system and the Prusik knot (or Prusik auto-bloc) concept to move. It is why you should know the length of the route, what to expect going forward, etc. In case you fall as you say mid route if you know what fallows is easier, maybe it makes sense to continue. It depends a lot also on the cause of the fall.
A fall will imply big risk immediately after because you will have to do something to get yourself out the situation. Being saved by the Via Ferrata Set is a big thing but unfortunately only the beginning of your problems.
If you are not alone and someone has 5m or rope with them, you can advance assisted from anchor point to anchor point. This will be the ideal scenario (after replacing the Via Ferrata Set with a backup someone or you have in the backpack).
I hope this helps!
@@JetSetYourself Thank you for such a detailed answer. You gave me a lot of useful information! Good luck!
Can I ask where is this scene located at 0:35?
Hello. No problem. It is Ferrata delle Aquile alla Paganella not far away from Trento. The first two thirds are boring and annoying but then follows these sections that are really beautiful. I would love to return but the first 2/3 are so annoying. It takes ages to cross them and are so static.
@@JetSetYourself Any other places you would recommend in Italy? I have been in Austria on a few ones that were really great, but we have plans on going to Italy as well.
What Y resting lanyard is that? Can you link or name the model?
I bought mine from here www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/climbing-technology-ypsilon-sling/136347305/p and here is the official page www.climbingtechnology.com/en/professional-en/textile_anchors/ypsilon_
which resting lanyard is that one?
Ypsilon made by Climbing Technology (now owned by Skylotec)
0:37 what is this route please? ( name of ferrata )
Via Ferrata delle Aquile at Paganella, Trento (Italy).
I'm just curious: what happens if you've fallen once and the system has been deployed - I assume you still continue your ascent - what If you fall a second time? Does the system do its job multiple times in a row or is it like a parachute?
Hello Elias. Unfortunately the Via Ferrata Set is like a parachute; once deployed you can no longer use it (you will have to throw that away). If you continue the climb (with the set deployed) and fall again you are no longer protected from the shock of the fall (but it might be just enough based on the severity of the second fall to keep you hanging and not drop to the ground).
If it happens to fall and have the Via Ferrata Set deployed and you are alone assets the situation, see how complex and difficult is the reminder of the climb and if there is any chance to fall again then you will need to call for help.
Best help is to replace the Via Ferrata Set with a new one.
If you are not alone, you can continue the climb is you have someone above you with a rope to keep you under tension while advancing. In case you fall and someone is keeping you under tension with a rope the fall is almost static which makes it safe.
I usually keep a second Via Ferrata Set with me for this precise reason.
@@JetSetYourself That's really useful, thank you for the information.
Is there any way to restore elasticity into the set after you've finished the route or you simply need to buy another one? That makes every fall pretty expensive
Not every fall will lead to the deployment of the shock absorber but once it happens that's it, is done, it has to be thrown to the bin. Once it deployed yes, it becomes expensive. The rule number one on Via Ferrata is to never fall. Will happen (to fall to the point of deploying the shock absorber) but statistically speaking this is a rare event.
Also, beware of the need to replace your equipment based on usage. I use a new Via Ferrata Set every two or three years if I never fall. If I fall two or three times (without deploying the shock absorber) I will have it replaced. If I use it intensively (every other week) based on personal assessment I will probably have it replaced in 18 months or so (even if I don't fall at all). The material degrades with usage and the more you have it out there the more will have to suffer (you don't see it with your eye but the usage is there).
We want it or not, staying safe out there will cost us dearly.
@@JetSetYourself yeah... I initially thought that via ferrata is safer than climbing, but after a little research I found out it's definitely not the case - at least not for falls.
I've done a C route on my first try quite easily so I thought I'd go for more challenging ones. But now I might switch to rock climbing instead.
Rock climbing and Via Ferrata are two different activities. They cannot be compared and they are not similar. They have some similarities but so do Bouldering and Rock Climbing or Via Ferrata.
For rock climbing you will need a belayer and expertise. The routes are specialized and provide a different climbing experience. Rock climbing requires technique and expertise. The learning curve is long and learning how to fall is essential (you will fall a lot). Via Ferrata has low barrier to entry, is straightforward and has the safety steel cable that the majority if not everyone is pulling against. Trying to rock climb a Via Ferrata exposes you to falls and a fall can get you into trouble big time.
Rock climbing is about repetitive calls until you make it to the top. Via Ferrata is about making it to the top without falling.
I cannot advise you what to choose because as I was saying they are different activities.
To me Via Ferrata is the better option because I don't need a belayer (plus much more).
To my knowledge I never heard about a Via Ferrata incident spree. Most probably both rock climbing and Via Ferrata have the same incidents rate with the difference that on Via Ferrata usually goes the tourist while rock climbing is done by people with training.
I did heard about deployed shock absorbers but not about something worse.
For my case I'm pushing it more and more but if the Via Ferrata is built properly all the safety gear I have and usually use will decrease my chances of a severe fall even while pushing it to the limit (I rock climb on Via Ferrata and this will eventually lead to a fall).
If this is permitted I will say that you are rushing into climbing more extreme Via Ferrata. I did started with a D but my first E was only twenty or so Via Ferrata C and D later. I started to climb long and demanding E Via Ferrata only after many months of training and hours of activity. I'm aware about the gravity of a fall. I try to manage that to the best of my abilities.
Unfortunately I cannot say that one is safer than the other. They both are extreme mountaineering activities.
I admire your focus on learning about risk and personal protection while climbing. Well done.
I never got advised to get a resting lanyard, they didnt see it as necessary
You should have one with you. It help a lot in many circumstances. If you never need one you either are very good and well trained or you are going on the easiest Via Ferrata possible. If you don't need to rest on Via Ferrata that's OK. No need to get into trouble just because you now can justify having a resting system on you. As a good practice is good to have it. I never go up a Via Ferrata without it. I will never do it.
@@JetSetYourself I honestly have only been on 6 via ferratas (all were easy, the hrdest was C/D), though I see myself not doing the harder ones but mostly easier touristy ones in the future. Maybe I'll buy one (maybe also a ferrata block/skylotech block if necessary)
It has a lot of great content, but I must say, that you shouldn't even approach the wall without the helmet on, or at least that should be the first item you put on. There might be other climbers already on the wall creating a high risk of stone falls.
Also for your own safety, you should never move anywhere with the resting line on, not even for demonstration purposes. As you mentioned, even a meter-long fall with that can cause serious damage. The resting carabiner's place is either on your harness or right above the next attachment unless it's a completely horizontal segment. Period.
Seeing you climbing up with the resting line on without a helmet is an awful example for beginners and scary to see for advanced climbers.
Thank you so much for leaving your comment. It really helps a lot improving the content.
If you don't mind, will you please document your affirmation? What supports your affirmation that "shouldn't even approach the wall"?
I will tell you right away that the helmet is the before last item you put on.
You start with the harness, continue with the Via Ferrata Set and then the resting system. After you put on the helmet and at the end your gloves. Did you see that I'm not wearing gloves as well? I guess you missed that.
Will you please make the time and let us know why I should've not approached the wall at all? And why the helmet should be the first thing to put on?
Let's help people learn something from reading these comments. Let's make the comments something of value. A valuable debate.
It is specified and shown in the content of the video that a helmet is part of the basic gear. Right from the start I state that you should not climb without a helmet. Pretty explanatory I will say. I also mentioned in a pinned comment matters on the topic.
In my entire Via Ferrata carrier I've seen everyone with the helmet on. No exception. People do get it. You need a helmet and all Via Ferrata climbers wear one (from what I see). I'm confident that people get my message: "you should wear your helmet". What I see many times on Via Ferrata are the things I spent a lot of effort explaining. People expose themselves to huge risk throughout lack of knowledge and the point of this video is to fill that void. I've seen people making errors on all types of Via Ferrata in various countries and situations. Knowing how to make a transition at the bolt is very important because it avoids increased fall factors and undesired falls. Knowing how to use a resting system is important. Understanding the limits of the safety equipment. Knowing or being aware of proper climbing techniques. Understanding etiquette and healthy behaviour. All this is foundational but easy to miss. Wearing a helmet is straight forward. You put it on and forget about it.
I don't believe the large majority needs to see a helmet on my head to do that for themselves. Via Ferrata is an extreme activity and requires the three basic items of protective equipment; a sitting harness, a Via Ferrata Set and a helmet. I'm confident people do understand with no required explanation that wearing a helmet is mandatory. Of course, we can start writing in here why you need a helmet.
I will start, please continue the list:
- falling rocks
- possibility of contusion during a fall
Thanks again for making the time to comment. I feel indebted to you!
Акцент лютый , бро)
Don't forget helmet!
Non ci si lega all'anello di servizio dell'imbracatura.
You must not tie yourself to harness service ring
Ciao Edoardo. Cosa non ci si lega all'anello di servizio? Il modo giusto di collegare il set di Via Ferrata è la connessione con l'anello di servizio. Se fai riferimento ad un altra cosa per piacere puoi essere esplicito? Dal tuo commento non si capisce cosa vuoi dire.
Hello Edoardo. What doesn't go connected to the belay loop? The correct way of connecting the Via Ferrata Set is by fixing this to the belay loop. If you mean something else, please be more precise! From your comment is hard to understand what exactly your point is.
Automac translation of the title is way off. Please just leave it in English.
The translation sounds something like this if I translate it back to English: "Do this before you happen via Ferrata" 😂 It makes no sense.
What language, please?
@@JetSetYourself Norwegian
Thank you. I will make time to work on it. Don't ask me why that happened. I meam, I know why but as you say, no matter the effort at the end is wrong or imprecise. Best to leave only the original.
@@JetSetYourself Agreed!
@@FlowithdaGo done!