F100 Top Five Ways to Improve Handling
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 04. 2020
- F100 Top Five Ways to Improve Handling
Cam is back and we discuss the top 5 ways to improve the handling on your F100 Ford Truck. We discuss using polyurethane bushings on the radius arms and pivot bushings to improve handling. We Look at sway bars for your F100 to make your truck handle better. We also touch on the Crown Vic front end as possibly the best way to make your F100 handle better.
Patreon: / gasolinemedia
www.monstertransmission.com
www.usshift.com
www.thedriveshaftshop.com
Parts:
Suspension Bushing Kit, Polyurethane, Black: F-3B203-15A
Bushing Kit, Polyurethane, Axle Pivot, Black: F-3B177-9A - Jak na to + styl
Great discussion! When I bought my '72 F100 11 years ago, it was all over the road, and bump steered like CRAZY. The first thing I did was change the rag joint. The same day, I tightened up the power steering gear box just a little (you can't go too much, as you know). Those two things right there reduced steering wheel travel A TON! Then, I found disc brakes off another 72 (I don't think they were an option at all on a 72 F100, so it had to have come off a 73). I bought the brake booster, master cylinder, and spindles to dust cap setup for $40!!! If I'm lying, I'm dying. I put that on and changed out all the bushings with new rubber bushings, and it's like a new truck. Bump steer is almost completely gone, but still sways back and forth on turns. My last project will be sway bars. It's a very low budget, pay-as-you-go project, and it's still in use as a truck. Can't wait to see the next few episodes!
Jeff For a front sway bar Summit Racing has one listed for the F-100. The part number is ACO-K1-113-OU. It sells for$184.66 it comes with everything you need. And right now you do not have to pay the extra weight charge. And for the rear sway bar one from a Ford Bronco II is a direct bolt on. I have one on my 67 F-100 swb. I had to drill out two holes on the frame because I did not want to use the metric bolts that came with the sway bar. I got it out of a junkyard for like $ 20.00
I just wanted to say thanks for all the great content! I just got passed down to me a 1969 f100 that has been in my family since it was new and have got my hands on a ‘72 f250 parts truck for the body stuff. With this covid19 stuff, ive had the time to get my truck running and i couldnt have done it without your videos and you have definitely eased my anxiety of pulling the truck completely apart and restoring it because of the awesome info you guys go over. Thank you so much for keeping hot rodding alive for the newer generation. You guys rock!
Good to see Cam back!!
Thank you for producing these wonderful videos. I just bought a '76 F100 and now need to go to F100 school. Learned tons from watching your videos. Very informative.
As usual your video was really good, I am just finishing a frame off restoration on my 1971 . I went the way of dream beams and found a really good dish brake kit that will fit my 15' rims. For me it made more sense than going the crown vic route. Keep up the great videos, they have been very helpful while putting the truck back together.
Good job, with plenty of good information....things my shop teacher never talked about...
I did the front disc with a conversion kit from CCP. I just disconnected the brake line at the frame and pulled the king pin. The kit comes with all new components. You just put the new spindles in place, drop in the new king pin and connect the new brake line. It took longer to replace the pivot bushings than install the spindles. The pads, calipers, and rotors are already assembled from the factory. The kit was less than 700 delivered.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Twin I beam is great, I’m one who opposes Crown Vic swaps. Do yourself a favor and buy a front and rear ADDCO sway bars and a cheap $50 steering stabilizer 👍🏻
We have the bars and will be doing an install very soon.
@@AutoRestoMod You guys should try a RedHead Steering Gear. They make a big difference in on center handling and steering feel on old Fords. I highly recommend them!
Love you guys. Good info. I will help with that plaque.
Planning to upgrade suspension...brakes, and powertrain on my ‘72 F100 the next couple months. Starting to feel overwhelmed. Thanks guys.
On my CV swap I solved the wheel match by changing to a later model 8.8 reared mounted on top of the leafs to get closer to the ride hight of the front. I had to purchase expensive racing grade wheel spacers to bring the wheels out closer to the CV width. Everything worked great except the truck is 2 inches too low in the back. I hate the Cali look. I want just a slight truck rake. So now I decided to purchase a 2 inch shackle for the rear of the springs. Which involves cutting the OEM bolts out that Ford seemingly installed backasswards. LOL. Then I must recheck my driveshaft angle. If it throws the angle off, I have to build shim plates to correct. Like mentioned, the CV swap goes on and on to get what you're looking for. But yes a CV swap on a short-bed really improves handling, stopping and weight reduction on the front end. The down side is still having leaf springs in the rear like an old freaking wagon. It's whatever you choose to spend and live with. Just be certain that when you are changing the dynamics of your overall suspension front to back, that you are not building something that will suddenly flip your truck off a sharp curve at 60mph, thinking your CV swap solved everything. 72 short-bed Ranger XLT 390 , Eddie Performer with Eddie 600 CFM, stock automatic, Crown Vic steel wheels painted same as truck with beauty rings and small center caps off police inspector car. Truck is 90% rust free with original bench seat still in great condition.
On one of my 65F100 I used the disc brake parts from the 70's series, EXCELLENT decision, even purchased a extra set of spindles in case I need in the future, on my OTHER 65 F100 I went with the 2006 CV front end and a Mark 8 read, maybe one day I will get to drive it
Love the video...
35 years ago I put disk brakes on my 71 F100. I got the spindles, calipers, rotors, booster, master cylinder, and parts I needed from a 74 F250. It all bolted on nicely. The only work that needed to be done was new kingpins. About 15 years ago I ordered drilled and slotted rotors from a company in Canada. The system has been working great for many years. Originally I paid $75 for the parts. The D&S rotors were about $150. My dad bought my truck in '72 and gave it to me when I was in High School in '77.
Right on! Love long love affairs with our vehicles.
Love this info
So glad!
I had a 95 ford lightning that handled like a sports car after I lowered it just a couple inches. The key to the twin I-beam is a good steering box and just a tiny bit of negative camber. The actually handle better than people think, and they last forever. Their weak point is straight roads because they tend to wander more that a typical front suspension. Also I still own a 2009 F250 2wd and it still has Twin I-beam. Over 200K miles with all original front suspension, thats why Ford stuck with it.
Great video goes. As always very informative. I have a 72 F100 I would love to install the polyurethane bushings and front and rear sway bars to get my handling to be less frightening. Looking forward to that video guys. I’ll be waiting :-)
Thanks 👍
Great video, answer so many questions that I was pondering. Would love to see a video of suggestions for improving traction!
Lead and Caltrac traction bars
Awesome delivery, I'll be looking into the bushings and shocks for my 75 F350
Glad we could help
im currently just doing the crown vic subframe in the front with the rear axle from crown vic with leafspring perches welded on to do leaf under, in my opinion that is the perfect setup. biggest issue is motor mounts depending what motor and trans, and then also a custom length driveshaft
Great episode! In my youth, I modded a '78 F150 Custom with poly bushings, Quickor Engineering F&R sway bars and KYB shocks. Those changes made a huge improvement to the handling, and I happily drove it like that for several years. Then in the mid-'90s I picked up a set of first-gen Lightning wheels and tires for it, and those made another huge difference all by themselves. Combined with the earlier mods, the truck handled waaay better than any dent-side Ford had a right to. On ramps and curvy roads became something to look forward to, and it was still every bit as useful as a truck as it had ever been. So I'd add a 6th item to your list: Wheels and tires. Actual Lightning wheels aren't that easy to find anymore, but Jegs, Summit, etc., sell relatively inexpensive 17x9" (stock 1st gen Lightning size) steel wheels in the 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern. I'd highly encourage anyone who's seriously interested in improving the handling of one of these trucks to upgrade to bigger wheels and 275/60/17 tires (again, 1st gen Lightning size.) I never had any rubbing or interference problems on my '78 (but can't vouch for other years.) The handling difference compared to the skinnier, taller sidewall 15s is pretty profound, and I never noticed any real detriment in ride quality. Other than the initial cost, there was no downside, it was all upside in my personal experience. Thanks for the Channel. Good luck getting to 100K!
Funny you'd say that. I was talking last night abut Lightning wheels and tires. And yes, they can make a huge difference in handling.
Nice. Your videos and information are thought provoking. I appreciate it. I've rebuilt 3 Ford, 67,69,70. F150-f250. Just bought a 72 f250. Getting ready to do another 1. I've never went with the CV swap. Just don't see the pay out for the butcher work. Disc brakes,sway bars, bushings,gear box, steering shaft joints, (also, I like putting wider rims&tires on) will give pretty good steering and handling. Never was 1 to chop and slam a truck. I kinda like them they way they were built. It's part of owning and driving a late 60s early 70 Ford. Just my feels. Thanks for the videos men.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
73 on up disc brakes need frame brackets for the brake hoses to calipers and those can be tricky to find sometimes
Well done 👌
Thanks 😁
They did have sway bars prior to 1980. My 1979 F-250 has them - front and rear. It has the Camper Special package, which added them from the factory. The trouble is that I replaced the front sway bar link bushings with polyurethane and it snaps the links like crazy because it binds up during travel. The rubber bushings are more forgiving. Polyurethane bushings everywhere else work great.
Right. I took one and put it on my 76 F100.
I lucked up and found a camper special and robbed the front sway bar off it to go on my 1977 f100 swb 460 swapped truck ... i used a rear sway bar off a 87 f150 and it bolted right up .. i have drove ny truck like an idiot around the curvs and hills on the back roads here in east Tn and havent had it slide on me yet .. even before i put the sway bars on i never had the truck slide. .i always ran 10 in wide rims with Bf Goodrich 295/50-15 tires and my rear of the truck has ben lowerd it sits just a tad higher than the front and im happy enough with the way it handles i hope to get to take it to a autocross event and run across somebody else competing with a crown vic swap f100 so i can see what the difference is myself .. oh and while were on the subject i have a 94 f250 frame and it has a sway bar wayyyy bigger than the one i currently have on my truck ..ill swap em out one day just to say i have a big sway bar on the back ..lol ...
Glenn R from east Tn !!!
Yea,I did a swap on a 65 F-100 with the disk off a 76 worked great.
Super conversion. We got lucky and the king pins were in mint shape!
Full crown vic swap , 72 short box extended cab unibody conversion is on my list
I did Drop beams and bushings along with an axle flip back in 07 on my 93 F150. The handling really improved though the ride quality wend down some. I would recommend at the very least going with the dual rate springs if not go with a a heavier load spring if you plan on taking corners fast. I did and axle flip as well but I did not C notch my frame, because well I just don't like cutting up frames. What I would really like to find is a good conversion for disks on the rear axle.
We plan on doing a spring episode on this truck down the road.
Idk if they upgraded the I beams since the 60s and 70s but mine are stock and I've never ran into any of those problems. I'm actually really impressed with how little roll I have without roll bars. I know it could be better but for a 1982 f150 it feels pretty sporty around turns. It does wonder a little bit in a straight line especially on acceleration but thankfully not during cornering.
I want to be convinced to go with drop beams and disk brakes lol the Crown Vic route just sounds too painful!
Go wth the drop beams. You will not regret it
I'm putting front factory brakes on my f250, and rear Dana 60 disc brakes from lugnut4x4
Hey just wondering if you know anything about the dodge Dakota setup offered by Industrial Chassis? Loved the video, I'm building a 65 f250 right now.
I haven't had any access to their stuff, Dakota is a little outside the range of what we normally do.
Just watching this and like what you are saying. Question: I have a 68 F100 and am looking to buy a 76 F100 for a parts truck. Will the front end of the 76 be okay to swap on my 68?
Scarebird is making multiple year model brackets for the brakes.
CV swap all day. $800 and you’ve got modern suspension, easy to source parts and better brakes than any disc brakes that came on any I-beam F100.
As for the rear, explorer rear end. $100-200 , and comes with 31 spline axles, rear disc brakes, LSD and either 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Only issue is the offset pumpkin. But you get a 2nd driver side axle, cut one side down and you’re good to go. Also, it’s set up for spring under so you can drop the rear and do a small under bed notch that won’t require bed modifications.
I think both have their place in the hobby.. But you make really good points.
Hey jeff and Cam you can have the sway bars in the lightning truck that i have been scavaging off of If you want to come and get them. Also has the cool lowering springs , special rear etc. The PO put a Bassani exhaust in it and it it sounded so good. Would love to see all that stuff find a new home in your 68-72 F150 Will pull the rear and springs for so you will not have to bring a trailer if i know you are coming . It can only hang around here for a month or so more then it has to go
Email me a number to call.
I got a 75 thats been lowered in the front with drop beams and has a disk brake conversion done. It handles absolutely terribly. I want to keep the ibeam style suspension but get it so its safe to drive down the road. I like the tip on duel rate springs gas shocks and the sway bars. The hardest part is finding a shop thats actually capable of deciphering what it currently has and what it needs to be correct.
Do you guys have a video on how to remove and replace body mount bushings for the cab and radiator support for a 1970 Ford truck? Thanks
We did the front cab mount bushings when we replaced the front cab mounts. czcams.com/video/dxdc2yrxj50/video.html
Our 79 Bronco has factory heavy duty sway bars front and rear. Neatly wrapped around both axle housings. Maybe they reserved them for more severe duty trucks? I dunno.
Might be.
Twin I-beam is a love-hate relationship. Appreciate someone doing a deep dive!
I have the front beams and disc brakes from a 77 or 79, (not sure as dad did it before he passed) under my 65. Power steering and gear box were added from the same donor. It gets the job done, but still has the awesome wondersteer. Would a stabilizer bar help that and does it need front and rear? Not worried about lowering it and the truck tops out at 75-80ish on the highway. Just looking to tighten things up.
Get the poly radius arm bushings and poly pivot bushings. Then add a front bar.
Side note , you could use some "NOT ALL" OF some donk parts on the vic chassis .
i like the f250 f350 in any brands as they were light duty in a way the f100 very light fer the hills around here but fer the vic swap the best then and if one installs spacers on frame the front end would not be to low i figure but hum,,my thing is sticks i hate 3speed od transmissions
Actually the F250 camper specials already had front sway bars in the late 60’s. they ran along the radius arms and across the cross member of the radius arm bushings. They are actually easy to install actually very effective.
According to all the research I have seen on Fordification.com (a great resource for 1967-72 F100, F250 and F350) not from the factory. A dealer may have added bars back in the day (there were a lot of dealer mods being done and swaybars, camper lights, etc. would be things that a dealer might install to make the Camper Special better at it's job), but the factory didn't...as far as I can find. I'd have to see factory documentation that verifies what you are saying.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media : Thank you for the reply. I’m not sure where where these anti-sway bars were installed so as you mentioned, it is possible it was a dealer ad on. Another thought is that, being Canadian here, we have historically had some option differences from the US built trucks. Either way, I did a lot truck alignments late 70’s and early 80’s and I saw quite a few of these and it intrigued me how simply they were installed. Doubt you would find one now anywhere. An observation over many trucks and many many tires back then was that a correctly aligned twin I beam with Michelin
Oops... wrong button on my iPad... what I wanted to say was that a correctly aligned twin I beam running narrow Michelin tires would run tires a long time. In fact what most people did not realize is that though the camber changed under load, the toe did not change, where as the GM’s had a lot of toe change under load. This causes much more rapid tire wear than camber change. So what we saw on our fleet customer vehicles was an average of 40,000 miles on Michelin steering tires on the GM’s and about 60,000 miles on a twin I beam. I was not a twin beam fan for many years but 15 years in the business convinced me. There are other issues with them but rapid tire wear need not be one of them.
80-83 f100s have 5x4.5 bolt pattern already so not a disadvantage for a cv swap there.
Would you see a good improvement just doing the front sway bars or do you really need to do both front and rear? Great job on these f100 videos!
Add the front bar and see how you like it. For towing the rear bar is a good idea though.
Wilwood has a front disc brake kit for 67-72 F100 for $675.00
The ones listed for a 2X4 on the Wilwood site is a wicked looking six piston design. Does require 15 inch rims. Lists for $783.99. Is there a different one I missed?
I remember reading a few years ago about using an Aerostar van front end (from a real wheel drive). That article was about using it in a 53-56 F100 and it was perfect width for those trucks. It has rack and pinion, disc brakes, etc... Your thoughts?
I've heard of a guy that did that on an Econoline, but not the F100. Interesting idea.
What shock to you recommend for a F150?
Recently bought a 1968 F250 Camper Special. Also picking up a 1976 Dreamer Cab-Over camper which weighs approx 2200 lbs. Truck has new shocks. Do would heaver springs be in order or sway bars from and rear to handle to extra weight and road handling Thanks,Glen
I would always recommend a good set of heavy-duty springs. I would contact Eaton Detroit Spring for their recommendations on that setup. I would also add a rear sway bar as well because the weight on that camper is going to present high rather than low.
I was just giving a 75 f100 2wd and want to do a tribute to a highboy but can’t find a lift for it can you help ?
I heard for a small drop first gen explorer springs work.
Yes, we have too. But I think it will cause camber issues an tire wear.
I’d like to see you include discussion of QA1 suspension systems.
DL
How much interchangeability is there between the different years of the F series trucks? Will a 96 suspension fit early models, if so how early? Will the E series beams fit the F series and is there any benefits?
The interchanging stops at 1979. The 1973 to 79 F series is wider at the back than the earlier trucks but the I-beams are the same. So no gas tank cross over. But the axles will.
What about the front coil over kit from QA1? How do they work with a coyote swap and handling?
Honestly, I don't know on the QA1 coilovers As long as the spring rates put the front tires at zero camber when the truck is finished, I feel they would do OK. Keep in mind that F100s are never going to be handling monsters due to the frame having built in torsional give for doing truck stuff.
What do you think about using the Ford Explorer springs for lowering the F100?
I worry about camber and tire wear.
Man, I wish I could click that button repeatedly to get yall the numbers...
Look I just bought 2 76 F 100s, one I drive daily and the other is a parts truck. They are both shortbeds. I replaced gas tank, brakes ,radius arm bushings, shocks, etc. It still rides like an old dump truck. I have heard a lot about the crown swap.
I wish I could send a video to you.
See my other response
The DJM Dream Beam lowering kit will cost around $1200 for front and back and will lower your truck 3 to 4” Kit comes with shocks and polyurethane bushings plus any front disc rotors from 74 to 79 are a direct bolt on and you keep your 5 on 5 bolt pattern
Good point
You did not give me anything for my problem - I got a 1960 LOL and the list of improvements you guys are looking for is not really where I would like to go. I would just like to stiffen it up and maybe put better drum brakes on it (700 bucks is totally out of my price range, I am retired and handicapped). Suggestions?
I've got a 69 f100, drum brakes, manual steering. Would like like to improve handling, but on a budget. Would doing the bushings, shocks, and sway bar be worth it? Mainly just a nice weather, weekend cruiser. Thanks, great channel!
I love the way my F 100 handles after we did the front sway bar and rear sway bar. The rear swipe bar is just a nice bit of icing on the cake.
Ford did discontinue the kingpin in the beams during the bullnose era and switched to ball joints. In my experience the drop beams are a little easier to find for the ball joint era trucks.
DJM makes a great set of drop beams.
I bought a 73 for a parts truck. An took the spindles and the front parts I needed off the 73. And then I did the upgrades. Cross drilled vented rotors. Then I went to a six piston calipers up front, and four piston on the rear. Braided brake likes. Not that barn door stops. But yea it was not cheap by any means of the word.
Sounds cool!
you can also look around the salvage yards and get lucky and find some parts someone else already put on and save a lot of money. i needed a front and rear sway bars for my 1988 f250 5.8L and manual trans . i got lucky and found a 1989 f250 with a 460 and automatic. it had the big bars that were the same as a f350 and it also had new front springs. i got all of it for under $100.00 . so not everything from a salvage yard is bad. that is all im saying
What about the sway bar from camper special? I used one from F250 and they use the endlinks from a bronco
The Camper Special stuff is hard to find as Ford did not put sway bars on those trucks until later. '67-'72 according to my sources, didn't have one.
@@AutoRestoMod
True, but I used the ibeams out of a 79 for the disk brake setup and used the sway bar and mounts. It does require some drilling but it will go in.
Have to be careful with I beams as around 81 they changed the material and all I beams after then are not to be heated and bent. In fact to drive it home cause people kept doing it ford starting casting the beams with "Do not bend" on both sides of the I beam.
On my 82 F150, I'm going with oe spec springs front and rear from Eaton but have them add 2 1/2" to the front spring to level my teuck out then I'm planning on adding a OE ford sway bar once I find a local junked 80-86 truck. Truck doesnt handle bad as I have poly bushings in my strut rod and I beam pivot. But there is still a slight roll that requires you to slow down a bit slower than a car does when making a turn.
Yes. We should have been more clear, in that we were talking about 1965-78 trucks.
Hi guys I been following you about 8 months now so IAM new be so I have a 72 F 100 it's got disc brakes on it I was told that came from a 77 ? And how do I find out if coil springs are stock . I have lots of questions but not now Thanks
Well,s tock isn't as important as if they are negatively effecting camber. You'd need to go to an alignment shop for that info.
What would you do for a68 galaxie? Crown vic full frame swap ?
We'll be doing mods for the '63. Quickor sway bars, QA1 shocks, Eaton Springs (GT springs), 3 degrees of positive caster, zero degrees camber, 1/16 inch toe. For a deeper dive look to stuff from PMT Fabrication: pmtfabrication.com/product/1965-1968-ford-galaxie-suspension-kit
We'll be hitting this stuff in a video soon.
While I don't disagree that a Vic swap is a good alternative don't forget the cash and time to rebuild it. Steering, suspension and brakes will all need to be redone. Now you're getting close to other bolt on alternatives. The fact is that steering and suspension upgrades are always gonna cost a pretty penny, on pretty much any project.
Mustang 2 kits any good? Great information.....
yes. They are.
Hello thinking of buying a 1970 F100 could you guys work on it?
What do you have to change on the front end to install a Coyote or a ecoboost in a 1968 F100?
Easiest might be to do a Crown Vic front end. But I imagine that a Coyote can be made to fit with custom motor mounts and a front sump pan.
I want to do a Crown vic swap with a 2003 mustang gt motor trans rearend and wiring harness on one of there's truck's
Check out this video: czcams.com/video/h5oZV7w2ckk/video.html
I understand what cam was saying about the crown vic swap. But if you don't have the tools or the knowledge to do the swap. Then you have the labor cost to do the swap and labor it where the cost comes in. And that can get real expensive real fast.
Yes.
The 67/72 Ford f series has a front sway bar, with the camper special package from the factory!!!!!!
Camper Special is an F250 package and unless they were added by the dealership, there were no sway bars from 1967-72. The Camper Special didn't even get disc brakes until 1968. It did get higher rate springs.
My 66 f100 has 76 f100 front and provision to add factory sway bar. Found whole set up in salvage yard for$40.
Ive seen at least two camper special trucks with sway bars, that's why you can't put long tube headers on the camper special because of the sway bar.
Putting an ADDCO front sway bar on my 75 F350.
It'll make a huge difference for sure. You might consider doing the rear sway bar as well.
Is it possible to do the crown Vic swap and keep original f100 height?
No. the suspension is lower on the rails.
Just a side note, 2022 F250s still have twin I-beams. It’s been 70 years of ford using them lol
I guess forward thinks if it aint broke don't fix it
I'm in between a gentleman's truck and something that can go 660 ft as fast as possible. I drive 25 miles to work and occasionally throw a couple trash bags in to go to the dump. Would love the advice as I'm a longtime Chevy guy that now prefers an older Ford
Contact me directly at jford@autorestomod.com
What about a mustang II vs the crown vic front end?
I feel they are both about the same. But the Mustang II is probably a little more expensive to get into because it is all new.
Hey I’m just wondering I got an 81 f100 and I use it on the farm as a farm Ute and I’m deciding whether to put rubber or urethane because this is a farm Ute I’m wondering which will make the ride less clattery and lose but still soft and long lasting. Also do you have a parts list for a front end suspension rebuild (new bushings and shocks) because that’ll make my life easier so that I don’t miss a part.
We did a full rebuild and listed recomended parts there. czcams.com/video/nLlxzfe28-M/video.html
There are also links to the other related videos there.
@@AutoRestoMod gee thanks mate have a good day
Heidts makes a pretty cool kit too I did DJM beams knuckles from pick and pull and the rest from local parts store then I got swaybars from circle track cars and made all my own links and brackets not a fan of the crown Vic swap too hokie
Good points.
will you guys do me a favor.. get that ford truck up on the hoist again.. there is a cross member attached to the frame directly under the steering box.. the upper connection is riveted.. the lower connection is bolted.. one wrench size is 5/8 and the nut size is 11/16.. that needs to be tightened. .. you may notice if you look down at the steering box.. while somebody rocks teh steering wheel that if that bolt is loose. the steering box and frame rail rock back and forth..
please also check the engagement of the steering coupling on the input shaft of the steering box. these are pinch bolted. but the bolt does not go thru a groove preventing it from coming off.. you may want to loosen the fasteners holding the steering column in place under the front edge of the dash .. loosen the pinch bolt on the steering box side of the coupling.. and shove the steering column forward slightly.. making sure the steering coupling is now within 1/16" of the steering box face.. then retorque the pinch bolt.. its probably 35 foot pounds..
Thanks for the heads up! We'll point that out.
Well sh!t, you busted my bubble… I was hoping I could just swap to newer model brakes on my 72… lol
Don't put the cab down low . The cab and front clip will be up a few inches . And you don't have to get the parts off just one car at the pick a part . You will use bigger tires and it will help not be so low .
I can't be that far off . So , to get every one on the same sheet of music . Take the wheels off , lower the truck and set the wheels beside the body at the height you want . So we all are not just guessing . Every full size Ford I ever had could take out any new exotic (OK most) on a road course . And I am not rich . So I do not like buying parts twice . If autocrossing is in the future , you gotta do the vic . Besides , don't use the kit , put your own spacers in the bottom of the vic crewmember .
QA1 offers a front end kit
Love to put a front sway bar in my 1960 f100....too bad they don't make one.
I have hear do guys using the '67-72 bar and modding it to work. It won't be a bolt on, but it can be done.
Why not upgrade to1996 ibeams so caster and camber can be easily adjusted?
Not the same length.
You guys might be quite surprised how much a set of polyurethane body mount bushings help eliminate a good bit of body roll. Combine that with your other front suspension bushings plus a swaybar and you would be quite surprised.....
Yes. but I want to at least ALMOST hear the radio over the cab noise LOL. Polys tend to transmit all the noises.
Actually the 2wd f250 trucks still use twin I beam
I'm still looking for better handling for a Ford Starliner!😉
That is what the Galaxie is for. I am researching this stuff now FYI
@@AutoRestoMod oh hey guys hope that y'all all staying safe and if you go Galaxie .....ya swing for the fence.....FFGS500!
Or... Late model chassis swap? Been running all of the suggestions past my son and I for my Granddaughters 67 shortbed.
We have looked at the complete chassis swap with a Crown Vic frame there are a number of videos on that procedure. Here is an interesting photo series on using a 2000s F150: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1096493-chassis-swap-1972-onto-a-2002-a.html
They are all compromises for sure. Same with post 72 frames on earlier trucks.
Ya great but how do u make a 4x4 handle better
Don't think "handling" and 4X4 trucks are used in the same sentance unless proceeded by "don't".
The way these trucks seem to be trending the Crown Vic is going to be the best & most desirable/popular mod... lets be honest, most that want to use a truck as a truck are not going the vintage F 100 route.
Well, I am not most people but I have hauled off a good bit of stuff in the last few days in the F100. But I see your point
I'm with Jeff, I still use my F100 as a truck.
So in your expert opinions, is it wasteful of time and money to only install the disc breaks?
Not at all. It is the first change we are making of the F100.
QA1 kit
Also a good point
Where are yall out of?
North Augusta, SC.
Ford bent beams cold, they made camber adjustments with a special tool shown at the bottom of this page www.fordification.com/tech/alignment.htm
Heavy truck shops that do alignments can bend them cold as well. Ford states DO NOT USE HEAT to bend beams.
Cam was referring to Semis. I show the tool you are talking about in another video.