A detailed video on how to assemble an 2004-later Harley Davidson Sportster bottom end. With a brief over view of the 2008 Buell XB/XR crank being installed.
Thank you for sharing you hard earned knowledge with all of us out here learning how to do it ourselves. It's very valuable stuff you're showing us. Thanks again!!
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the great videos. I will be doing a 1275 kit with the 100+ HP package on my 2007 Nightster 1200. I've got about 50k on the engine now so planning to rebuild the whole bottom end as well.
thank you guys, i need to replace one side case due the bolt thread cylinder head was very bad and thanks this video i got the idea to do it the most professional way i will follow u guys on everything thanks
Thank you for this. I blew a piston after a screw backed out of my air cleaner mount and went through the valve and into the chamber... Anyway, you guys rock.
I'm glad to see you recommend harbor freight especially for us budget minded guy's. I already have that kit. even if it's a single time use it still makes sense to go there first you just have to know that what you are getting is not top shelf stuff but it will work. thanks for all the videos I am subscribed and plan on doing a 1275 on my 96 1200 sportster
I'll have to split my 08 down the road,I haven't had third cog for about six years.Theres no metal flakes coming out of the box so she's still good, good thing me mate's an ex Harley mechanic lol
Can the cams from a 2007 xb9r go into a 2004 883 block. I noticed the number 2 cam is on the right side of the oil pump. On 883 it’s on the left. Number one is in the front and number 4 is in the rear.
Have you guys thought of making demo videos of some of your engine builds? Like maybe a track day or drag strip? Charts are fine and dandy but watching a sportster/buell really perform would be awesome (not to mention help sell your products).
What about a little permatex? I’ve ran out of loctite and used gasket maker in threads and it seems to hold bolts well enough as a low strength loctite
If I'm hearing a noise in the primary while rolling down the road either in gear or not in gear and with the engine if off while rolling down the road would it be that bearing that's doing it? Or could it be something hopefully easier to replace?
What about the shift drum spring that’s on the inside of the first cover you installed? It seems like it has to be in a Certain spot to be able to keep drum from spinning right?
How long did the whole job take? I'm trying to decide between getting a new motor or swapping out bottom end only. There is a crack along the crankcase seam.
i would like to see you do a 95 ,96,97 bottom end. i have a95, and 97. both need to be done, and also would like to know if that newer buell crank will work in my bottom ends ? thank you:)
the buell crank will work as long as you do the crank mod from us. It's not a direct bolt in. You can read about it here: www.hammerperf.com/xllowerend.shtml#crankconversion
You guys are god damm heros !! thx .. The buell crank info is JUST what I needed .. Do you sell those cranks with carillo rods, or do I have to get it all in place myself !?!
to have a crank balanced your usually looking at about $300. We dont balance cranks at Hammer, we suggest sending it out to Dark Horse Crank works to have it balanced.
In the process of tearing apart my ‘08 1200 to get everything powder coated. I am a diesel mechanic but never torn a bike apart before. These videos have been very helpful. Do you sell or recommend any time of seal kits for rebuilding?
I know they don't have the trap door for the 6th gear, but is it possible to put a 6th in it if you crack the cases like this? That is literally the only thing I wish my Sportster had!
I have a question. I'm familiar with Sportsters with Trap door Trannys. I have never owned an Evo Sporty but planning on getting one for a project bike to make my own. How much more efficient are these newer Transmissions inside the case. Do they hold up better??
This gearbox is lubricated by the engine oil or the primary chain oil? Saw a video from delboys garage saying thus transmission share the engine oil and primary chain only lubes the chain and clutch. Is this correct? Btw he use atf for the primary? Is it ok ?
On Sportsters, the primary and transmission share the same oil. There's a passage between the two. The engine oil is separate. So you've got two different oils. On Big Twins, the primary, the transmission, and the engine each have their own separate oil, independent of each other. So you've got three different oils. Lots of guys run ATF in their primary. But the HD "Formula+" is a high quality lubricant and it works great: www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/shop/formula-transmission-and-primary-chaincase-lubricant/p/62600004
Hammer Dan, the 03 and earlier had the ability to put a Baker six-speed transmission in via the trap door. They don’t have one available for 04 and later. I assume it is due to the need to split the case. Have you every put in a custom six-speed into an 04 or later Sportster? If not, do you think it is possible to do?
ok im a bit confused at this point you said to tap the double row in on the outter race never the inner itll hurt the bearing, then, always pull through on the inner race never the outter itll hurt the bearings...????
When pressing the bearing into the case the outside race is what you press against to prevent the guts falling out of the bearing. When pulling the fifth gear through it’s only pulling against the inner race and not actually putting pressure against the ball bearings. If you were trying to hammer the fifth gear in it would cause issues.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I don't know why but I rarely get notifications from CZcams when I ask important questions lol So in order to have that done I would have to send my cases to you guys? Unfortunately, there is no local dealership here anymore. They closed their doors a year ago this past October, and the closest dealership to me is a 5 hour drive and since I don't own a CVO or a more expensive bike they don't care to help me get stuff, or are very slow and unprofessional about it. Meanwhile, guys I know that have more expensive bikes have been contacted by said dealership offering their services after the local one closed, but they didn't contact me lol. That being said I would rather give you guys my money any day of the week! I purchased pushrods and a bronze gear from you guys last year for my build and the quality of the pushrods and the customer service I received was amazing! I'm also open to having the flywheel that is already in the bike sent to you guys to have it welded and balanced and all that goodness with some CP rods and pistons. I have an S&S 1250 on my bike (not because I think it's a better product than the Hammer 1250/1275, I was off work at the time and I got a deal I couldn't pass up at the time). Is that something that can be done? I would also love to send my heads to you at the same time!
@@jonnymac8925 Sure, we're happy to help, but we need a lot more information. Please contact us using this form and we'll get you fixed up: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
No looking at it necessarily from a strength stand point but from a scissoring or shifting standpoint. The cranks on the newer motors are a press fit vs being nutted together so I've heard that can be an issue.
@@ckelley63 Scissoring is exactly what I was referring to when I said it adds almost no strength. A few years ago, S&S had a series of videos that proved welding a crank added almost no scissoring resistance. This basically confirmed what we had seen in TC cranks in particular, that the weld just breaks. Bottom line, the strength of the weld is in the noise as compared to the strength of the press fit. That video series has apparently been taken down, I can't find it anymore. They've left up one tiny video that's just a little excerpt of the series, showing their setup for testing. But in our experience, scissoring isn't nearly the issue with an XL crank that it is with Twin Cams anyway. It's actually a pretty rare thing to have an XL crank scissor on you. Spread is the big issue with an XL crank and it's really only an issue in high rpm builds. The best thing to fight spread is the 2008 XR1200 crank. The bigger 1.5" crank pin adds a lot of spread resistance. If you're concerned about scissoring, you can always get the crank pro-plugged, that will add far more scissoring resistance than welding. But again, scissoring is a rare issue in the XL world, in our experience.
It looks to me like it’s just a bolt that fits the neutral switch hole. Nothing special it just has to be long enough to hold that arm out of the way. Maybe just remove some of the thread on the end…
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Somehow the MoCo decided it's a _brilliant_ idea to remove the trap door. Doesn't matter much for the average rider, but a *nightmare* for service crews and mechanics.
Your videos are life saving guys !
Thank you for showing us and giving us the way to go !!
Please continu these videos
Thank you for sharing you hard earned knowledge with all of us out here learning how to do it ourselves. It's very valuable stuff you're showing us. Thanks again!!
Great video. Thanks Dan, very helpful for me on my 90ci build. 1st time with harley-davidson transmission hope it works when I'm done LOL. Thank you
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the great videos. I will be doing a 1275 kit with the 100+ HP package on my 2007 Nightster 1200. I've got about 50k on the engine now so planning to rebuild the whole bottom end as well.
thanks for the tutorial, I just bought a sporty with a broken transmission. this is very helpful
thank you guys, i need to replace one side case due the bolt thread cylinder head was very bad and thanks this video i got the idea to do it the most professional way i will follow u guys on everything thanks
Thank you for this. I blew a piston after a screw backed out of my air cleaner mount and went through the valve and into the chamber... Anyway, you guys rock.
What a fantastic vid, the guys at Hammer are brill end off.
Awesome man...thanks. Start to finish is great for us first timers.
I'm glad to see you recommend harbor freight especially for us budget minded guy's. I already have that kit. even if it's a single time use it still makes sense to go there first you just have to know that what you are getting is not top shelf stuff but it will work. thanks for all the videos I am subscribed and plan on doing a 1275 on my 96 1200 sportster
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊❤❤3ww222
Very nice work!
Really good video. Keep up with great work!!!
I need a
Mechanic like this guy
Great work again guys! I will be doing this very soon for the new drag race season next year
You are the best ! So helpful and so careful ! Thank you so much.
looks like you did a good job
Over the years iv used sockets and crank pins to press out bearings iv used harbour frieght bearing installers to
Hi, Hammer, What an awesome Vid. I just suscribed on CZcams and IG.
Very good video thank you
Best in the biz!
I'll have to split my 08 down the road,I haven't had third cog for about six years.Theres no metal flakes coming out of the box so she's still good, good thing me mate's an ex Harley mechanic lol
Can the cams from a 2007 xb9r go into a 2004 883 block. I noticed the number 2 cam is on the right side of the oil pump. On 883 it’s on the left. Number one is in the front and number 4 is in the rear.
Have you guys thought of making demo videos of some of your engine builds? Like maybe a track day or drag strip? Charts are fine and dandy but watching a sportster/buell really perform would be awesome (not to mention help sell your products).
we will get some racing vids in, but we have to wait until summer.
Check out Real Street VTWIN on Facebook. I run a hammer engine and it performs very well. 11.01 @ 121 mph on a stock chassis
"Lubricate our shaft" haha
Just wondering.. why don't you warm the casing to make the bearing fit much easier?
What about a little permatex? I’ve ran out of loctite and used gasket maker in threads and it seems to hold bolts well enough as a low strength loctite
hi, thank you for sharing this video. So i can guess the gearbox share same primary oil or not?
Will the double row 5th gear bearing fit the 05 sportsters? As a upgrade. Just curious if so.
If I'm hearing a noise in the primary while rolling down the road either in gear or not in gear and with the engine if off while rolling down the road would it be that bearing that's doing it? Or could it be something hopefully easier to replace?
What about the shift drum spring that’s on the inside of the first cover you installed? It seems like it has to be in a Certain spot to be able to keep drum from spinning right?
I would also like to know where to get the bolt tool for the neutral indicator
Did you ever find that tool I can't find 1 anywhere lol
How long did the whole job take? I'm trying to decide between getting a new motor or swapping out bottom end only. There is a crack along the crankcase seam.
i would like to see you do a 95 ,96,97 bottom end. i have a95, and 97. both need to be done, and also would like to know if that newer buell crank will work in my bottom ends ? thank you:)
the buell crank will work as long as you do the crank mod from us. It's not a direct bolt in.
You can read about it here:
www.hammerperf.com/xllowerend.shtml#crankconversion
You guys are god damm heros !! thx .. The buell crank info is JUST what I needed .. Do you sell those cranks with carillo rods, or do I have to get it all in place myself !?!
Do you have the number for the screamin eagle press set for the trans bearing?
Would it be easier to just put a xb motor and trans in the x1?
What's your advice on having that crank balanced. For a couple more weeks of downtime and a couple more
hundo'💲💵 ... ???
to have a crank balanced your usually looking at about $300. We dont balance cranks at Hammer, we suggest sending it out to Dark Horse Crank works to have it balanced.
At what power level do you suggest balancing the bottom end?
So where do I find that fancy tool. For the neutral switch indicator hole? Will just a bolt do? If so what size and thread? Thanks
Yeah it's a 7/16 18 thread
Sorry about that I meant 9/16 by 18
🙏 thank you
In the process of tearing apart my ‘08 1200 to get everything powder coated. I am a diesel mechanic but never torn a bike apart before. These videos have been very helpful. Do you sell or recommend any time of seal kits for rebuilding?
dont do it get it cerakoted or youll regret it big time i promise
I know they don't have the trap door for the 6th gear, but is it possible to put a 6th in it if you crack the cases like this? That is literally the only thing I wish my Sportster had!
I dont think they make a 6 speed for the rubber mount sportsters, but I could be wrong.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Sadly, I believe you are right. I have searched high and low for a 6 speed conversion and they simply don't exist :(
Why not to heat case before pressing in the bearing at 8:00 ?
I have a question. I'm familiar with Sportsters with Trap door Trannys. I have never owned an Evo Sporty but planning on getting one for a project bike to make my own. How much more efficient are these newer Transmissions inside the case. Do they hold up better??
No, they're not more durable. Getting rid of the trap door beginning in 2004 was a cost reduction, not an improvement.
So is the SE bearing as good as timken deal ...??
This gearbox is lubricated by the engine oil or the primary chain oil? Saw a video from delboys garage saying thus transmission share the engine oil and primary chain only lubes the chain and clutch.
Is this correct?
Btw he use atf for the primary?
Is it ok ?
On Sportsters, the primary and transmission share the same oil. There's a passage between the two. The engine oil is separate. So you've got two different oils.
On Big Twins, the primary, the transmission, and the engine each have their own separate oil, independent of each other. So you've got three different oils.
Lots of guys run ATF in their primary. But the HD "Formula+" is a high quality lubricant and it works great: www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/shop/formula-transmission-and-primary-chaincase-lubricant/p/62600004
Will a 10-12 ton press suffice?
Hammer Dan, the 03 and earlier had the ability to put a Baker six-speed transmission in via the trap door. They don’t have one available for 04 and later. I assume it is due to the need to split the case. Have you every put in a custom six-speed into an 04 or later Sportster? If not, do you think it is possible to do?
anything is posible i think the baker 6 fits if the case has been split same size as the 03- so why not
or just get an earlier case if youre already that far into a build and incorp the 6th gear to that build everything is a direct fit
is a HD pinion bearing good enough or is there an aftermarket upgrade ? Jim's, S&S ???
They're all the same.
Red locktite is a mistake it is relatively permanent. Use the blue, it won't unscrew.
The factory service manual calls for red Loctite in on both the pinion nut and the sprocket shaft nut.
red is semi permanent it can always be broke free
beautifull work, my name is Gaspar I would like to know how to change the all gasket to my caburator in one Road King 1992
ok im a bit confused at this point you said to tap the double row in on the outter race never the inner itll hurt the bearing, then, always pull through on the inner race never the outter itll hurt the bearings...????
When pressing the bearing into the case the outside race is what you press against to prevent the guts falling out of the bearing.
When pulling the fifth gear through it’s only pulling against the inner race and not actually putting pressure against the ball bearings.
If you were trying to hammer the fifth gear in it would cause issues.
@@Tofuandtwowheels fair analysis 👌 thanks , I didn't think of it that way
Do you guys sell the XR/XB crankshafts for the rubbermounts?
Not without the installation service, no. But you can get it through your dealer, part number 23999-08
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I don't know why but I rarely get notifications from CZcams when I ask important questions lol
So in order to have that done I would have to send my cases to you guys? Unfortunately, there is no local dealership here anymore. They closed their doors a year ago this past October, and the closest dealership to me is a 5 hour drive and since I don't own a CVO or a more expensive bike they don't care to help me get stuff, or are very slow and unprofessional about it. Meanwhile, guys I know that have more expensive bikes have been contacted by said dealership offering their services after the local one closed, but they didn't contact me lol. That being said I would rather give you guys my money any day of the week! I purchased pushrods and a bronze gear from you guys last year for my build and the quality of the pushrods and the customer service I received was amazing! I'm also open to having the flywheel that is already in the bike sent to you guys to have it welded and balanced and all that goodness with some CP rods and pistons. I have an S&S 1250 on my bike (not because I think it's a better product than the Hammer 1250/1275, I was off work at the time and I got a deal I couldn't pass up at the time). Is that something that can be done? I would also love to send my heads to you at the same time!
@@jonnymac8925 Sure, we're happy to help, but we need a lot more information. Please contact us using this form and we'll get you fixed up: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
thanks you very much
How come you don't have the crank welded ? cheap insurance
It does almost nothing to strengthen the crank.
No looking at it necessarily from a strength stand point but from a scissoring or shifting standpoint. The cranks on the newer motors are a press fit vs being nutted together so I've heard that can be an issue.
@@ckelley63 Scissoring is exactly what I was referring to when I said it adds almost no strength. A few years ago, S&S had a series of videos that proved welding a crank added almost no scissoring resistance. This basically confirmed what we had seen in TC cranks in particular, that the weld just breaks. Bottom line, the strength of the weld is in the noise as compared to the strength of the press fit. That video series has apparently been taken down, I can't find it anymore. They've left up one tiny video that's just a little excerpt of the series, showing their setup for testing.
But in our experience, scissoring isn't nearly the issue with an XL crank that it is with Twin Cams anyway. It's actually a pretty rare thing to have an XL crank scissor on you. Spread is the big issue with an XL crank and it's really only an issue in high rpm builds. The best thing to fight spread is the 2008 XR1200 crank. The bigger 1.5" crank pin adds a lot of spread resistance. If you're concerned about scissoring, you can always get the crank pro-plugged, that will add far more scissoring resistance than welding. But again, scissoring is a rare issue in the XL world, in our experience.
Here's some discussion on that video series: hdbitchin.com/index.php?topic=3682.0
Hey I appreciate you taking the the time to expound on this, I have wonderr for sometime about this vs. Twin Cam crank issue..
1:00:23 🤗
1:00:26😂
Where can i get that neutral switch locking tool? Or did you make it?? Can't find it anywhere
It looks to me like it’s just a bolt that fits the neutral switch hole. Nothing special it just has to be long enough to hold that arm out of the way. Maybe just remove some of the thread on the end…
@@Tofuandtwowheels made one. Forgot the pitch but you have to dull the threads and smooth out the end piece flush.
It's A 7/16 18
I'm sorry meant 9/16 18
All that extra work just to get to the transmission lol.
ya, it sucks!
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Somehow the MoCo decided it's a _brilliant_ idea to remove the trap door. Doesn't matter much for the average rider, but a *nightmare* for service crews and mechanics.