I had 2 castle nuts back off, one on a factory Delton and one on a rifle I put together. I since then, I will always stake. I use the Harbor Freight center punch starter tool. It works PERFECT.
I love the transparency and education on doing things right. I’m building my first rifle and it’s a Scalper lower. Gonna pick up the upper soon (I know a place and I’m not saying until I get what I need. I know...selfish.) and deciding on what barrel/caliber I will go with soon. I would love a video on your position/advise on lapping the upper receiver, especially with your level of QC on your parts. Sorry if I’ve missed that in a video. Much respect to you guys and your outright support of the country, military and especially law enforcement in the times we are in today. I’ve got many friends who have served in both capacities. As a Texan I’m proud of you guys.
More great info, definitely staying tuned for more. Awesome sound detailed info and gun shit broken down for the FNG (Fuckin New Guy) like me. Keep em comin team SOLGW. 🤙🏽
Which ar-15 & ar-9 lower vise blocks do you recommend ? Along with the ar-15 various choices of upper / lower combinations in the marketplace ? Have you found one made of nylon or carbon fiber ? Thanks
My first AR purchase was a Bear Creek Arsenal, the castle nut isn't staked. It's driving me crazy because I can hand tighten it myself. Makes it feel cheap.
Smart bunch of guys. I too did NOT want to use loctite and and DID use white lithium grease to prevent galling. Steel and aluminum over time do not live well together.
Get a automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight. Perfect staking every time. No hammer or vice needed. In Afghanistan one of our guys had a gunners mate install a qd sling end plate. They didnt stake it and a few months in it came loose. Luckily when it was not a critical time
Glad to see this comment. I'm just finishing up a new build and just happened to see one of these at HF and thought I bet that might work and picked it up. Haven't used it yet but at least I know it'll work.
On a few cheaper castles nuts there's no cut at an angle there to stake into, it's an actual cut out small section, a lot better to get more metal in there.... Just need a end plate that isn't black and then silver circles where you stake it....
Awesome vid. I thought my LMT castle nuts were awesome (they are) but I need to check out Forward Controls now. Mike, I'd love to see the opening of a .070 to a .073 on a 10.3/10.5. I want the wifeys personal to eat damn near everything suppressed or not without destroying itself in 6 months. Thanks for the new vids!
how come he swtiched punches? Is a regular 5/32 center punch ok to use? going to try this for the first time soon...all the lantac RPS are out of stock lol
The only thing I can complain about is on the factory guns. The gas block is not pinned, there is a spot on the gas block for a pin through the barrel but no pin is installed. I figured that would be done considering the reputation of SOLGW
What blu-ing compound do you prefer on the fresh metal left by the punch and do you tighten the castle nut to 38 lbs/ft or less (you mentioned the spec of 38 - 40 was bordering on excessive)? Thanks for all the great rifles and thanks for honest, calorie dense content.
I bought my BCM castle nut last night, hopefully it gets here soon. Came to youtube to make sure I know how to install it, and first video for "castle nut install" is by SOLGW, and it was uploaded just a couple months ago? I can't think of anyone I'd rather learn from.
I've never understood why people don't stake their castle nuts. It's SOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to do and doesn't take much time. Even if you're not that good with a hammer and punch, many a gun guy in your town will help you out. I remember when I lost my VERY expensive punch set during moving (thank god I finally found it) Brian over at Sionics was kind enough to stake two nuts for me at no charge when I was buying an upper from them. peace of mind
A lot of people don't stake because they like swapping out different stocks and RE tubes, and staking is a hinderance to that process. Besides, if you torque it down properly to a true 40 ft-lbs the castle nut is never going to move under regular use/operation anyway. Think about it... are you ever worried about your barrel nut or muzzle device coming loose? Staking was a CYA requirement implemented by the military, just like the useless forward assist (which Stoner always hated). Just because the military demands it doesn't mean it's improving performance.
@@jamesr792Are you for real? There are plenty of barrel nuts that don’t use a slot or groove for the gas tube… They just sit on top. Saying you don’t know anything about AR15s without saying you don’t know anything about AR15s.
@@sooperknob I have built a total of one AR. I own a few. They all have the slot. I’m a reasonably experienced shooter but by no means either an expert or a gunsmith.
Love these videos, learned a lot from you guys at SOLGW. What about a video like this on headspace, measuring headspace, etc.? That's kind of another 'mystical' internet conversation that appears to go all over the place.
I use a Starrett spring punch when I build a rifle. Nice not need a third hand and just holt the rifle in one hand and the punch in the other with no hammer! 🤙🏼 Love these vids
Anyone ever have problems with the buffer tube not straight plum when tightening castor nut ? Seems like I only have this problem on one lower. Starting to think the buffer tub is a piece of crap
Yes, because there is sometimes a little play between the tab on the end plate that slides into the slot on the buffer tube. Also, under extreme torque I've seen the tube rotate and the threads get cut by the end plate tab. Of course, that was on a cheapo tube when it happened. However, I've even had some slight rotation on BCM or other high quality parts. Just look at rifles you built and see if the stock is perfectly parallel to the grip. A few of mine were slightly canted. I ended up buying a Geissele Reaction Block and I use that along with a few coins to put the lower receiver and the Geissele block in my vise. Keeps it perfectly straight when you are tightening the castle nut. VISM/NCStar also makes a vise block that's much cheaper. Check out School of the American Rifle here on CZcams for some videos on the topic.
I got a complete pistol lower from psa awhile back but it never came with the castle nut, the pistol tube was already installed on there. I ran it with no problems but im noticing that im supposed to have one? It's never walked out on me or anything but I'm being told I should have one
if you have a pistol buffer tube on there from PSA (meaning all the way round, no notches for a buttstock to ride in) then it's only DESIGNED to be torqued down and never staked. no nut required. Not the most secure design, but if yours isn't backing out then whatever
Yeah, got it... I like stake. Q: Why can't I place two caslte nuts on an AR... tighten the first one down to spec... using the 2nd to apply pressure to the first keeping it inplace?
yes, you're staking the end plant INTO the notches on the castle nut. You can re-use a nut if you want/need. However, they'r SOOOO cheap I just personally replace them every time unless it's a cheap range toy.
Drew Baglin who would have thought... men and women using hand tools.. and some “nascar companies” who have robots can’t even get a simple stake right... yes we do it by hand..
I am build my first AR. But I gotta say it: doesn’t seems like a archaic design? Like you literally deform the metal to secure a nut? Bro haha. Still building mine though
Threads aren’t getting damaged at all when you back out that castle nut. The moved material from the punched endplate will roll/fold back into the endplate when you loosen the castle nut.
I had 2 castle nuts back off, one on a factory Delton and one on a rifle I put together. I since then, I will always stake. I use the Harbor Freight center punch starter tool. It works PERFECT.
I'm glad you mentioned lithium grease. I started using that stuff on a whim, and it worked so I stuck with it
Dropping that sweet knowledge on us. Perfect timing, just got a whole stack of yours and FCD parts in for my build this weekend
I love the transparency and education on doing things right. I’m building my first rifle and it’s a Scalper lower. Gonna pick up the upper soon (I know a place and I’m not saying until I get what I need. I know...selfish.) and deciding on what barrel/caliber I will go with soon. I would love a video on your position/advise on lapping the upper receiver, especially with your level of QC on your parts. Sorry if I’ve missed that in a video. Much respect to you guys and your outright support of the country, military and especially law enforcement in the times we are in today. I’ve got many friends who have served in both capacities. As a Texan I’m proud of you guys.
I like the double tap approach. 🔨💥🔨💥💥
More great info, definitely staying tuned for more. Awesome sound detailed info and gun shit broken down for the FNG (Fuckin New Guy) like me. Keep em comin team SOLGW. 🤙🏽
Which ar-15 & ar-9 lower vise blocks do you recommend ? Along with the ar-15 various choices of upper / lower combinations in the marketplace ? Have you found one made of nylon or carbon fiber ? Thanks
Thanks for the video. What size punches do you use?
My first AR purchase was a Bear Creek Arsenal, the castle nut isn't staked. It's driving me crazy because I can hand tighten it myself. Makes it feel cheap.
Smart bunch of guys. I too did NOT want to use loctite and and DID use white lithium grease to prevent galling. Steel and aluminum over time do not live well together.
Get a automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight. Perfect staking every time. No hammer or vice needed. In Afghanistan one of our guys had a gunners mate install a qd sling end plate. They didnt stake it and a few months in it came loose. Luckily when it was not a critical time
Glad to see this comment. I'm just finishing up a new build and just happened to see one of these at HF and thought I bet that might work and picked it up. Haven't used it yet but at least I know it'll work.
Do you need different size wrenches depending on whether or not you have Mil spec or commercial buffer tubes?
On a few cheaper castles nuts there's no cut at an angle there to stake into, it's an actual cut out small section, a lot better to get more metal in there.... Just need a end plate that isn't black and then silver circles where you stake it....
Commenting to support the channel. Great video looking forward to the content ✊🇺🇸🇺🇸
When your torquing your castlenut what do you prefer to use to hold the gun? Something like a Magwell Vise block??
where can I buy that center punch?
When you treat with anti-sieze doesn't that reduce the torque value required?
Awesome vid. I thought my LMT castle nuts were awesome (they are) but I need to check out Forward Controls now.
Mike, I'd love to see the opening of a
.070 to a .073 on a 10.3/10.5.
I want the wifeys personal to eat damn near everything suppressed or not without destroying itself in 6 months. Thanks for the new vids!
Thanks for the content I’ve always staked rifles. I was curious to what your options are on the ratcheting end plates that I’ve seen recently
Negative ghost rider
Over did mine
how come he swtiched punches? Is a regular 5/32 center punch ok to use? going to try this for the first time soon...all the lantac RPS are out of stock lol
Triple staked! Wow that forward controls castle nut is legit
The only thing I can complain about is on the factory guns. The gas block is not pinned, there is a spot on the gas block for a pin through the barrel but no pin is installed. I figured that would be done considering the reputation of SOLGW
What blu-ing compound do you prefer on the fresh metal left by the punch and do you tighten the castle nut to 38 lbs/ft or less (you mentioned the spec of 38 - 40 was bordering on excessive)? Thanks for all the great rifles and thanks for honest, calorie dense content.
For some reason my castle nuts and end plates get surface rust on it. Is there a way to prevent this? Thanks.
I linked everyone asking how to do it in our recent video, to this video.
How do you keep the tube straight when tightening it?
The quick detach plate has a tooth that keeps the tube and lower lined up while you’re torquing.
Good stuff. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the help!
I bought my BCM castle nut last night, hopefully it gets here soon. Came to youtube to make sure I know how to install it, and first video for "castle nut install" is by SOLGW, and it was uploaded just a couple months ago? I can't think of anyone I'd rather learn from.
I guess you guys know what your doing...lol! Thanks for this info
So I’d assume copper anti seize is ok?. Ima run with it.
what punches is he using? those are legit
I'll Never miss a passage from saint mike. Can I get an amen?
Amen
Amen
And awomen.
@@mikey354 hahaha, I fucking died!!
I've never understood why people don't stake their castle nuts. It's SOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to do and doesn't take much time. Even if you're not that good with a hammer and punch, many a gun guy in your town will help you out. I remember when I lost my VERY expensive punch set during moving (thank god I finally found it) Brian over at Sionics was kind enough to stake two nuts for me at no charge when I was buying an upper from them. peace of mind
A lot of people don't stake because they like swapping out different stocks and RE tubes, and staking is a hinderance to that process.
Besides, if you torque it down properly to a true 40 ft-lbs the castle nut is never going to move under regular use/operation anyway. Think about it... are you ever worried about your barrel nut or muzzle device coming loose?
Staking was a CYA requirement implemented by the military, just like the useless forward assist (which Stoner always hated). Just because the military demands it doesn't mean it's improving performance.
@@sooperknobThe barrel nut won’t come loose because it’s held in by the gas tube….. otherwise it would need to be staked.
@@jamesr792Are you for real? There are plenty of barrel nuts that don’t use a slot or groove for the gas tube… They just sit on top.
Saying you don’t know anything about AR15s without saying you don’t know anything about AR15s.
@@sooperknob I have built a total of one AR. I own a few. They all have the slot. I’m a reasonably experienced shooter but by no means either an expert or a gunsmith.
Love these videos, learned a lot from you guys at SOLGW. What about a video like this on headspace, measuring headspace, etc.? That's kind of another 'mystical' internet conversation that appears to go all over the place.
I use a Starrett spring punch when I build a rifle. Nice not need a third hand and just holt the rifle in one hand and the punch in the other with no hammer! 🤙🏼 Love these vids
Starret tools are 🔥
Ive never used anti seize on the castle nut. Only to the barrel nut. I guess i should start putting it on the castle nut as well.
I would be interested to know which two punches are being used for the task.
should you have to remove the castle nut for a repair, how hard is it to remove it once you already staked it?
Do you torque the castle nut?
What's the stuff being applied after the staking? At the 4:00 mark
I measured the angle and I made a tool that is angled to stake the FCD on my lowers it is a hardened tool steel punch
Just take a file to it if you need more staking area
Anyone ever have problems with the buffer tube not straight plum when tightening castor nut ? Seems like I only have this problem on one lower. Starting to think the buffer tub is a piece of crap
Yes, because there is sometimes a little play between the tab on the end plate that slides into the slot on the buffer tube. Also, under extreme torque I've seen the tube rotate and the threads get cut by the end plate tab. Of course, that was on a cheapo tube when it happened. However, I've even had some slight rotation on BCM or other high quality parts. Just look at rifles you built and see if the stock is perfectly parallel to the grip. A few of mine were slightly canted. I ended up buying a Geissele Reaction Block and I use that along with a few coins to put the lower receiver and the Geissele block in my vise. Keeps it perfectly straight when you are tightening the castle nut. VISM/NCStar also makes a vise block that's much cheaper. Check out School of the American Rifle here on CZcams for some videos on the topic.
When are you going to have stuff in stock?
SigBoy 1911 no one does 😢
What bluing stick are you using to recolor the bare metal?
I would like to know as well.
Your question answers mine. Was wondering what he was filling it with. Makes sense.
Can I order your lowers with the end plate that has the QD attachment?
What size punches do you recommend?
Galling is not as much of a problem as torque value, when using grease. Staking in at least two places, three is better. Good job..
What is your opinion on the PWS ratcheting system?
I got a complete pistol lower from psa awhile back but it never came with the castle nut, the pistol tube was already installed on there. I ran it with no problems but im noticing that im supposed to have one? It's never walked out on me or anything but I'm being told I should have one
if you have a pistol buffer tube on there from PSA (meaning all the way round, no notches for a buttstock to ride in) then it's only DESIGNED to be torqued down and never staked. no nut required. Not the most secure design, but if yours isn't backing out then whatever
Blue Loctite for me.
Yeah, got it... I like stake. Q: Why can't I place two caslte nuts on an AR... tighten the first one down to spec... using the 2nd to apply pressure to the first keeping it inplace?
Little pp go big PP
Duck Commander in the Background!
Can a castle nut be reused and staked
yes, you're staking the end plant INTO the notches on the castle nut. You can re-use a nut if you want/need. However, they'r SOOOO cheap I just personally replace them every time unless it's a cheap range toy.
So y’all do staking by hand not machine?
Drew Baglin who would have thought... men and women using hand tools.. and some “nascar companies” who have robots can’t even get a simple stake right... yes we do it by hand..
Seems like there should be a better way to prevent loosening.
Nitride parts next to phosphate parts are just hideous.
Sing the song of St Eugene Stoner!!!
Is there any disadvantage to overtorquing the nut? I can't think of any besides summoning the ire of internet commandos..
possibly weakening or stripping the threads. I've seen it happen
Just use a Fortis K2 that is self locking.
First ,Thanks for the content
Baby Jesus
I am build my first AR. But I gotta say it: doesn’t seems like a archaic design? Like you literally deform the metal to secure a nut? Bro haha. Still building mine though
Bought a DPMS and it did not have those marks on the castle nut. So I loosened it up, added red loctite, and tightened it up. Problem solved.
🦆
38-42lbs
But you destroying the threads on the buffer tube if you ever want the castle nut off 🤔 easyer to putt a tiny drop loctite on it.
Threads aren’t getting damaged at all when you back out that castle nut. The moved material from the punched endplate will roll/fold back into the endplate when you loosen the castle nut.
just buy SOLGW.