2010-2015 3rd Gen Toyota Prius brake booster and accumulator replacement. brake warning light C1391
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2024
- Performing the replacement of the brake booster/actuator and accumulator per Toyota TSB. Brake warning light and DTC C1391. 2010 Prius, 2011 Prius, 2012 Prius, 2013 Prius, 2014 Prius, 2015 Prius, Prius v, 3rd gen Prius, warranty enhancement, warranty extension.
Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
1:39 - Cowl Removal
3:50 - Removing the Reservoir
5:47 - Removing the Brake Lines
7:07 - Interior Nuts and Disconnecting the Brake Pedal Rod
8:40 - Removing the Booster
8:58 - Removing the Accumulator
11:33 - Swapping Lines Between the Accumulators
12:05 - Installing the New Accumulator
13:06 - Installing the New Booster
16:09 - Reinstalling the Reservoir
19:04 - Reinstalling the Cowl
19:40 - Outro
Just completed an actuator change on my 2010 Prius. Couldn’t have done it without this video. Very grateful!
Thanks a lot! Glad it helped you!
What were your symptoms? I have no lights as of yet but seem to be hearing the pump (buzz) when I’m in park often. Did you just replace the accumulator? Thx!
Did you use a scan tool for the brake bleed
@@automotiveinsight can you guys replace mine? I need an experienced shop in SoCal who is confident in these, or I might sell my 13 Prius
Great walk through, just what I was looking for👍
Glad it was helpful!
Good job thank you for taking the time to make the video !
Thank you for your work. We just finished replacing a new one.
Just successfully completed this repair on my 2013 Prius. The instructions are good though I had a devil of a time with the pump-accumulator mounting cushions and nuts. Other than those it went pretty straight forwardly. I would recommend using the lowest hose on the brake fluid reservoir to completely drain the fluid. To bleed the system once installed, I used a Foxwell NT710 scanner with the Lexus, Sion, Toyota module from Amazon and just followed the instructions.
Thanks for your video. In the mid '70s when I was a girl I wanted to watch and learn as my father taught my brother how to repair the family car. But my father shooed me away. 😟 As a 59-year old woman with no experience other than changing the oil on my ole '68 Olds Delmont 88 many years ago, I believe I could do this job thanks to your video (and a repair manual and good notation as backup). Otherwise a Toyota dealer wants $3K to fix my 2010 Prius. But bleeding the breaks would be an issue because I don't have the necessary device. Plus, I don't have a mechanic mentor at the ready in case I eff something up. So ... now I'm searching for a non-dealership mechanic who may charge less to get me safely back on the road ... 😔🙏
After watching several videos, yours was the best. Very detailed and good specs. Thank you !! I just completed my install(alone)
Thank you! That means a lot to us. Congratulations on getting it done.
@@automotiveinsight One thing I forgot to mention about re-install. It would be great if you can re-install some parts a little slower (eg cowl /wiper motor install). I know we can go beginning and go in reverse - but just offering the suggestion for better video. Sometimes I take parts off and do not know where they came from. For example, I am glad you went slow on brake reservoir install, as I had 3 pipes and did not know which one went were. Pausing video at that re-install location showed me to where to put in properly
@@rohitbhatnagar7599we appreciate the feedback. The thing is: it’s impossible to make everyone happy. If we slow things down, people complain about the video being too long and “ever heard of fast forward” comments. On the other hand, when we fast forward, others don’t like it. We’re trying to find a happy medium. In our future videos, I think we’re going to take pictures of components and show where the bolts are and the sizes for a few seconds for easy reference.
@@automotiveinsight Thanks... you are right it is hard to keep everyone happy.
@automotiveinsight you have a point, but anyone complaining that you need to FF needs to start exercising their thumb 👍 and do their own damn fast forwarding. Or play at 2x until they get to the part they want. On the other hand it's difficult to try to slow it down enough to see what is happening when the creator has sped up the video.
I've got my parts and am gonna do this repair this week. I've tracked down a few different videos on this but I think this one's best and will be referencing it as I go.. thanks!!
Thank you! Good luck!
@@automotiveinsight The trickiest part is actually that driver side nut closest to the firewall on the pump!! It's sped through on your video but I'm curious how you did it. I ended up removing the mounting nut on that big mess of wires so I could pull them up a little to make more room. Then I had to stick the nut to the end of a piece of masking tape to be able to hold it in place and get the threads started.
Great video! And for that one screw on the motor that is hard to attach use a magnet to hold it in place while you get your fingers around the screw.
I love this video and it is helping me immensely through the process. I just spent an hour fighting with the bolts up under the dash and making my back hurt from lying over the door sill. You are right about this being a PITA process. One thing I would suggest is do not fast-forward through the taking off connectors part. All those connectors have different ways to remove and they are easy to break. If you could show removing them, it would be helpful. So, where's your "buy me a coffee (beer) link? I owe you some beverages for making this vid. It's the best one on the Prius brake booster on YT.
Thank you for the feedback and congratulations! Subscribing to the channel is the best way to help us out.
If you remove the driver seat gives a lot of access to the bolts makes it easier to get under the dash
Great job
lol, great video... Those gloves did not stand a chance 🤣
Fkin thorough bruh good shit
Thanks
Changed the accumulator and booster. Do I have to adjust break pedal heights after ?
Also following question about the scan tool to finished the job. What scan tool to reprogram it after installation ?
hi there i have a prius c which had abs codes and problems the car was sent for abs changre after the change the car drives and stops well but the mechanic told me that he just changed the abs module and not the pump and accumulator so should i put in a new pump motor or is it fine to drive as it is.
Very informative. Thank you.
I was wondering why you replaced the brake booster as well? Does it not work properly once the accumulator is malfunctioning?
any code ABS Module to determine between new and use?how to choose?
Which direction is the grommet being mounted? And are there any tips on putting back the nut on grommet? Every time I try to screw the nut in, theres a lot of tension on the grommets.
About to do a actuator and booster change on my 2010 Prius and this will help tremendously! I have a question concerning the scan tool...I have a scan tool that will read codes from the ABS system...Is this what you're referring to? Or is their a special scan tool that tells you more? or tells you to do something special? Just wondering if I need to purchase something extra other than what I got...
It needs to be able to do the bleeding, linear offset, and zero point functions. Browse the comments, I think some people have other options for scan tools or workarounds for that part.
Thanks for showing this. Not sure if I will have to do it. So far, I have a stuck steering wheel sensor at 850.5 replaced it still stuck.Original problem is traction contorl light is constant. C1231 in abs check. but I tested abs sensors and it came back with low or abnormal reading for all abs sensors and one for the skid control ecm. The thing attached to the masster brake booster. c1281 I think. It says to check connection and pins which I will but after seeing you do this Im not looking forward to havin to replace. 2015 Prius 127K.
This should still be under extended 10 year/150k mile warranty replacement. Go to a dealership and get it done for free
How can I test the actuator after removing it? Like if i press the foot brake piece and fluid comes out the holes does it mean it’s ok?
can you change only the booster for correct the c1391
I hace a 2011 Toyota Prius, apparently the brake booster extended warranty expired on 08/31/21. What upsets me is I had taken my car in to Tustin Toyota on June 2020 to do a different recall but they did nothing about the brake booster or said nothing. I’m here at the dealer and they said they only fix them when they go bad. Well now mines bad and I’m effed. This has been one of the must frustrating things I’ve ever gone through with a car. Feels like I’m driving a BMW.
Sorry to hear that.
Adjusting the yoke on the master cylinder is much easier out of the car. I did not follow that advice one time and had to do it under the dash.
Thanks for the awesome video, please recommend any mechanic shop in Orange county, CA, my prius 2010 is having this issue,
Never been there. We’re located in South Carolina.
@@automotiveinsighthow much do you charge for the replacement (part + labor)? I'm in NC and don't mind driving to SC
Hi thank you for this awesome video I have a question if anyone can help me with.. can you install a brake booster and accumulator that are from different cars? Pretty much the one junkyard has the brake booster and the other one has the accumulator for my vehicle . Thank you !
Also didnt know if you explained in the beginning about disconnecting hybrid battery along w 12v battery first.
I agree it is always necessary for safety! Crazy stuff happens. I went to auto body school and every lesson when working on a hybrid started with "disconnect the hybrid high voltage battery." And it is SO simple on a Prius. The connector is only like 2 feet away from the 12v battery.
I am looking for scanning /brake bleeding, which is required after the above is done. Can you recommend any without spending fortune.
If the only thing you want to do with it is bleed the brakes on this car, I would consider contacting mobile mechanics and seeing if they have a scan tool that is capable and having them come out. If you want to have one for other stuff, we picked up a used autel on eBay for $500 that will do it. Others will do it too but unfortunately you’re going to have to look into it a little deeper.
Great video, I have the 2017 Toyota Aqua with same issues on brakes failing off and on, my question is, where can I buy those parts online ? I live in the Dominican Republic. Thanks for any info you can provide
Thank you. Honestly, I wouldn’t know where to begin with as far as getting parts there. As far as I know there aren’t any aftermarket options for the parts, so I guess I would start searching for the closest Toyota dealers to you and see if they can get them. Good luck!
Thanks @@automotiveinsight
thank you so much. for detail video. I would like to ask you a question, I hope to get an answer from you please.
I let my Prius V break fluid go so low that the break, abs and traction light turned on. break fluid reservoir looked completely empty. I added fluid and the lights went off. but they came back on a day later. and now I hear this pumping going on. When I press the break pedal it travels further but when I pump it once it gets stiffer. its just like older cars when break lines need to be bled. I saw you pointing to a canister that needs to be bled. can it be done manually without a scan tool.
took the car to autozone for their scan read out. it said that it need the break master cylinder replaced (I don't remember exactly what part needed to be replaced). but I think it was the items you replaced.
I just want to try breeding the thing first. can you please point me in the most economical way to get this done.
the car needs a catalytic converter and hybrid battery I am just trying to keep enough money for the rent.
If I were you, I would try bleeding it with the car running. It’s not perfect nor is it what you’re supposed to do, but it’s better than nothing. Unfortunately, I think the damage is already done and don’t think that bleeding the brakes will help much. You also need to figure out why the brake fluid was so low.
@@automotiveinsight thanks for the replay, the break fluid was low because all break pads are to the absolute last bit of pad left.
i would have appreciate if you show the bleeding and calibration using techstream
But nobody show that
I won’t be able to fix this myself, what does it typically cost?
My car brakes are stiff, does not go down unless applying high huge amount of force repeatedly and therefore the braking distance is so much bigger, it's too dangerous for me to drive. I checked online to see that I need to replace brake booster. Except for that, there isn't a single definition on it online, sometimes it referred to as brake booster actuator (with 2 tanks), the other is like a black cylinder called brake booster pump control or servo, but I think you referred to it as the accumulator in your video. Do I need to replace both or would the actuator be enough ?
I had to replace both in mine.
you wouldnt happen to have the part numbers for what you used?
Ok so after installing I tow it to tire kingdom for the brake flush and something else I forget (calibrate)? Oh yeah linear offset. And its best to change both actuator and the booster? New
Call ahead and make sure they can do it. Yes, I always replace both. No you don’t have to disconnect the hybrid battery.
hey first of all thanks for sharing this amazing video so after ı changed that 2 parts do we have to reprogramming or no need it ?
No reprogramming. Just air bleeding, linear offset, and zero point calibration.
@@automotiveinsight thanks for that ınfo can ı do that all things with mını vcı toyota techstream or do you recommend something else ?
That should work just fine.
@@automotiveinsight thank you so much for helping I really appreciate it
@@semihislamyan3600 you’re welcome. Good luck!
Does the new computer with the new booster need any kind of programming? or just plug ang and play and straight to the bleeding procedure?
thanks!
There is a zero point calibration and linear offset procedure that needs to be done with a scan tool. But no programming.
Brakes are killing me on my 2010 prius, 75k miles. Currently have a C0210 code that has brake abs train lights on. Have had 3 pads rotor replacements because the dealership wasn't servicing slide pins. Just last summer, the brake line had a leak, probably corrosion. That was 2 weeks for a back ordered part and $1.8k A Google search says dealer cost to replace these 2 parts will be $3k.
Yikes! 3 sets of brakes is very uncommon on Toyota hybrids.
@@automotiveinsight i know. I'm very upset with them. The first rotor pad change was at 42k and they lasted 13k miles. He said the slide pins were stuck so i told him the other dealer did it last year but he said it was out of warranty. Another oil change, i had a brand new oil filter on my seat when they were done. I asked if this got changed and he said they brought out an extra. Most recent routine service was supposed to be oil and tire rotation. Front driver tire didn't have a valve stem cap. When they gave it back it still didn't. I'm having a hard time imagining the process of a tire rotation where the valve stem caps don't stay with the tire.
A couple questions…
1. What is the need of replacing both parts and not just the booster? I completely understand u have to take out the actuator first but couldn’t u just use the old one? My booster is just humming far more frequently then it should.
2. The snap on OBD scanner u have, does it have preloaded techstream on it?
THANKS!
Well the tsb says to do both of them so that’s we we’ve always done. The snap on did not come with techstream software, but since it’s tablet based I installed it and use a mongoose cable from a usb port. That being said, we used the snap on tool itself to bleed the brakes, not techstream.
Many videos say to do both, including dealer I purchased parts. It is big job - do not experiment. These are brakes also - main stopping for car
I did the same procedure, but car now thinks the brakes are pressed all the time. Brake lights always on, and I can start the car (READY) without pressing brake pedal. Any help is appreciated. I started seeing this issue when I removed the Spring connected to Brake pedal.
Read some of the other comments. I helped several people with the same issue already.
Are there any remanufactured or refurbished parts available for this repair? And what are the new/best prices for the actuator and accumulator? Any big risks in using "low" mileage used parts? We got 260k out of the OEM parts and don't drive this Prius much, so "new" parts are kinda overkill. Could a person do all the wrenching, and then take it to a shop for the bleeding/computer work? Is it driveable without the computer portion? Thanks so much for an excellent video (but would have liked to see the bleeding, software, etc).
hi, did you ever find answers to your questions? I was wondering the same thing.
@@sashaghovanlou8175 No I haven't. Our Prius is still suprisingly driveable even with 2 or 3 brake-related lights on the dash. Sooner or later we'll have to do something I guess - but honestly we'll probably put the $2000-$3000 toward a replacement car.
How do you bleed the stroke simulator without a scan tool? I’ve looked and looked on the comments and I can’t find a good answer
You can’t
I did the RR,RL,FR,RL bleeding but when I reach the stroke abs module bleeding the message bleeding procedure fail
Any ideas why this is happening
The only thing that comes to mind is I think you're supposed to unplug the brake fluid level sensor and set the parking brake. If those have been done, I don't have any other input.
Thank you for this helpful video! I suspect I'm gonna have to replace my brake booster and accumulator on my 2013 Prius as I'm getting that whiny noise every 30 seconds or so. It's good to know that bleeding the brakes is complicated. I don't currently have a scan tool as I'm not a mechanic, but is there one you can recommend that's affordable that's capable of getting this job done? I'm just a guy who's fairly mechanically inclined with a limited budget (I'm a musician) , trying to keep the car, I just finished paying off, on the road :)
I THINK (don’t hold me to it ) that the early first generation mongoose cable will do it. You can pick one up on Amazon with some old techstream software for like $50 and use a laptop. But you probably should dig into whether or not it can do it before you get one.
@@automotiveinsight Ok, thanks for that info! I certainly will not hold you to it and I'll let you know if I find out anything else :)
@@fastheartmartvideos Hello. Could you please tell me what scanner did you use to program a booster.
How many hours is this job? Looks like 4-6 to me but it's hard to tell.
It's subjective, but yeah, it take about 5 hours to do.
Can I change only the brake master cylinder without changing the pump because I have inside leak
Did you find an answer to this question? I know safest thing to do is replace both but I really don't feel like the pump has a problem even though it cycles on and off frequently bc of the leaking master.
I heard something about cowel and windshield , but did not under hear or understand the comment. I would like to test vehicle for 20-30 miles before putting cowel back on. If there is problem, then I would not need to take it back off. Please let me know.
It was an inside joke. The Prius we did the pistons on a couple of videos before this one, we were pulling the engine the exhaust broke the windshield. Luckily it was already broken before that and I was planning on replacing it anyway. But you’re fine to drive it with no cowl for a while. I drove that red one for about a week with no cowl.
i believe the code is C 1391. that's what popped up on my code reader. where can you buy these parts at the best price?
You’re completely correct. Thanks for pointing it out for us. I’ll fix it asap. To the best of my knowledge, these are dealer only parts, so the Internet is probably the best place to look.
@@automotiveinsight Thanks. I'm now looking into the ZJB enhancement program to see if my vehicle is covered.
Hello, same trouble was diagnosed by a dealer…. Can you recommend a repair shop in the North Dallas area? Thanks
Unfortunately not. Our home base is South Carolina.
Bro I stay in north Dallas
Did you figure out how to fix it .
Please reply
Is the 2010 HS250h abs system similar to this Prius?
I’ve never done one in one of those. The CT200 is very similar to the Prius.
Found a great video on how to remove wiper/motor/cowl. You might want to put in comments. Search for "How to Remove Lower Metal Cowl Cover 10-15 Toyota Prius" - this is lower cowl. Upper cowl is "How to Remove Wiper Cowl Cover 10-15 Toyota Prius" Both from 1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know
Hi, my Mechanic changed the parts but he couldn’t calibrate it. Do you think, How much does it cost to me to calibration at the dealer ?
$300ish I would guess.
Dropping a comment bere because im starting to lose hope, i have no codes, no dash lights, but my brakes have been really odd, they hiss at stop lights when i havw them held down, and they have been really jittery, as well as the brake accumulator making its buzzing noise quite frequently. All of these should indicate a bad booster or accumulator pump or whatever, but theres no codes. And the weirdest part is it has only been doing it when its hot out. At night with cooler weather they work like a dream. Any advice would be amazing (this is killing me)
The unofficial test I use is to start the car and let the booster build pressure. You should be able to push the brake pedal at least 3 times before the pump runs again. If it won’t or just sporadically runs at idle they’re definitely on their way out.
@@automotiveinsight I'll try your test later today, thank you so much
Are there any early signs/symptoms of a brake pump or the booster failing? Before the information cluster shows warning lights and codes when scanned.
You’ll notice the pump running more often. For instance at idle(ready on), once the pump builds pressure, it shouldn’t run again until you press the brakes 3-4 times. A bad one will run every few minutes without applying brakes.
@@automotiveinsight Thanks for replying such promptly.
If the pump motor runs more often as you said, which one is going to go? The pump motor or the booster?
@@kamrulhassan7185 it usually means the accumulator is bad. There’s a service bulletin about it that says to replace them both regardless so I’ve always done them both at the same time.
@@automotiveinsight Are the symptomps different for the actuator/brake booster going bad? Specially, prior to abnormal leaks since it is a part beyond repair or serviced.
@@kamrulhassan7185 no. There’s really no way of knowing which component is leaking pressure down. It’s the accumulators job to store pressure, but it just as easily be leaking back through the pump side. So the symptoms would be the same either way.
8 hours of labor u are crazy
Is this the same as code C1391? Thanks
Yes. It was initially wrong but we have since corrected it in the title.
Is a scan tool absolutely necessary?
no its not . The reason u need scan tool is for a robot bleeding . I am to bleed mine down to where i get the light to go off. there is cylinder in the there that has to bleed when u get a new one there is no oil in them so u need to bleed them to add oil and release that air . That cylinder is not in home position so its gonna send a signal computer to now its in limp mode disable abs and turn brake and abs on. Air will make u have no firm pedal Its a safety light to say brakes are failing dont drive car . This is a serious failure and should be fixed immediately.
Do you really want to risk bleeding brakes incorrectly, especially if you are a novice?
After fix, my accessories power only will not work. Pushing power 1x - without brake pedal - will get me directly to drive mode of the car.... any help - appreciated...
See if your brake lights are working correctly when you push the pedal. The brake light switch may be out of adjustment. That could cause both of your issues.
@@automotiveinsight Brakes lights are are always on... happens after all that mess fixing down there... Thanks !!
@@rohitbhatnagar7599cool deal.
@@automotiveinsight I got the brake light switch all the way down and it is till not hitting the pedal. All bolts on master cylinder are very tight. I can not seem to put URL in comments, but please search youtube for the video - "Brake pedal Adjustment kk,geotjte". It popped up as the 2nd video
@@rohitbhatnagar7599it looks like your brake light switch bracket is bent.
I followed this procedure but my brake lights are on ALL THE TIME. Do you know why this is happening?
Adjust your brake light switch.
@@automotiveinsight I did adjust it using the "wingnut" part of the switch. It still seems like the little button (the part that actually moves) needs to come out more. Can you pull it out as you can on some other cars like Fords?
And thank you for your amazingly fast reply late at night!
@@DavidBeatypersonal yeah. The switch is on the bracket that stayed in the car. It will twist about 1/4 turn, then you can adjust where it sits.
i did the same, probably frustrated with the process. I bent the steel part of brake light switch. Automotiveinsight helped alot with solution of bending steel part back
Let me know how much will cost installation
Parts are roughly $1500-2000 and labor is roughly $1000-1500 depending on where you have it done, where you live, and what parts they use.
i have same problem 270k , is it ok to drive it like that
I drove mines for 8 months. These are brakes, do not take chance of accident- change it.
Also have same issue, so how i can get them(two spares) as am in Rwanda, and at which cost?
Can any obd2 scan tool with abs work?
They will read the codes. The brake bleeding is a special function. Some tools have it, some don’t. You’ll have to look into whichever tool you plan on using to see if it has that function.
Would you recommend any scanner that can do this from amazon?
Check with the guy a few comments up. I recommended a first generation mongoose cable. I haven’t tried it but I bet it will work. I think he tried it. That’s probably your cheapest option. But I haven’t used any scan tools from Amazon so I don’t know what will work from there.
@@automotiveinsight thank u so much
Do you need to disconnect the high voltage battery before doing the repair?
No. All the brake stuff if low voltage.
Might want to keep your key fob away from the car
@@woodstream6137why is that?
@@stevieandsara i might have been thinking pad and rotor replacement when i commented but it could apply here i guess. the key fob pressurizes the breaking system when it's near the car. I guess to make sure the brakes are ready to use before the car is started. If the calipers arent mounted, the piston can over extend and need software to open the valves to push the piston back in without damaging it.
Maybe something similar could happen with booster or accumulator and all the brake fluid is purged?
Maybe for me though I d hv to disconnect since I would get it towed to mechanic after replacing parts for the computer part of it.
I would Like to buy your old ABS...
I been having that problem for 7 years never change it.
Interesting to know! Thanks!
You've been driving the car in this condition for 7 years? Cool, mine just started doing this two weeks ago and I was worried it had to be fixed immediately.
You've been having that recurring noise for 7 years? But the brakes are still working properly ? On my car i have the sound every 15s or so. But no lights on the dash and the brakes are working perfectly.
Yeah bro lol
@@rosaritomex4223The constant running doesn't eventually burn out the booster? I guess if you are easy on the braking the regenerative braking does all the work. But emergency stops is when you'll wish you had it working?
the first thing to do is cleaning the windscreen....................
My budget will afford me the pump/accumulator replacement only at this time. It seems to be the offending part considering the noise it makes ...
czcams.com/video/tlOW7CSonTQ/video.html
That's without the dash light on. When the dash lights come on and I lose regen braking, the pump makes the noise even more.
not selling 2002 Rav 4 any time soon ..yet another reason to avoid all up to date autos 😆😆😆
If you are not working as delivery or taxi or Uber you don’t need to buy hybrid car because they are very expensive to buy and very expensive to repair for example regular car cost 20 thousand $ hybrid car cost 24 or 25 thousand $ if you look to the difference I think that s what you can save in gaz if you bay hybrid
For USA, 200k mi (length of ownership example) / 25mpg extra (generous because most delivery, uber is city where hybrids excell) = 8000 gallons vs hybrid at 50mpg = savings of 4000 gallons x $3.61 (median cost of gas in USA) = $14,440 dollars. Prius last longer than 200k with maintenance.
This is the most uninformed comment I've read on CZcams in awhile. First, you don't offer any stats or costs, or how long is the intended ownership, how much driving, which car makes and models you are comparing, etc. To start off with, a Ford or Chevy car is typically cheaper than a Toyota but am I going to buy one? HELL NO. There's a reason Ford stopped making cars.
Here's my scenario for you. In 2012, I needed a wagon-type car for my work but also would be driving it for nonwork use. I was almost certainly going with Toyota as over the years I've owned many makes of cars but Toyota stood out (I owned Subaru, Honda, Datsun/Nissan, Ford and Chevy cars).
Let's look at the price of 2012 Toyota wagons or mini SUVs and mpg.
2012 Prius V (hybrid): base price $27,160, combined mpg 41
Toyota Venza: $27,425, combined mpg 23
Toyota RAV4: $23,460, combined mpg 24.
Out the door, I'd pay more for the Venza which was NOT a hybrid so we don't need to compare further about fuel savings. The RAV4 (also not a hybrid) was about $3300 less expensive.
How long would it take to make up that $3300 difference in fuel costs between the V and the RAV4? About 48,000 miles and you break even. That's 3-4 years of ownership. Anything after that and you are saving a lot of gas money in the Prius V over the RAV4 (almost twice as much gas use in RAV4). Since I still own the Prius V I have saved thousands.
Now let's consider your comment about "expensive to repair." Well, it sure isn't a BMW or Mercedes, try paying to get those repaired. My hybrid has never needed anything other than routine maintenance until this brake booster issue. If the brake booster had failed about 6 months earlier it would have been in the extended warranty on that "known issue" and repair would have been free. Quite frankly, there's little repair on a Toyota, especially if you do your maintenance on time. I have over 120K miles on the car now.
Will my hybrid battery last forever? No, but then I've already owned the car 11 years, so sooner or later I'll be looking for a newer model anyway. Guess what I'll buy? Another hybrid, and it will be a Toyota.
Edit: If my hybrid battery does fail, I may just replace it. I'd like to see how many miles I can get out of this car, just for fun. It is, after all, an old friend now. It carries a lot of stuff while using very little gas.
You show the easy parts. The only thing I need to see is how to bleed and use scan tool. That's the hard part. You skipped all the that . Your video is not helpful. I have to find another video.
Easy for you to say. Somebody like me, not so much. I thought it was very helpful. Now that i think about it, i bought that AllData or something like it but don't use it much since it uses a VM to load an image file.
@@woodstream6137
I think my pump is bad. I'm putting on a new one now. Have to take apart everything again. The problem is the scan tool relearn is stopping halfway. No blinking . So I'm going to change pump and try again.
@@riddlescom good luck
@@woodstream6137
Still wo t clear. Unlearned linear ..
Scanner stop blink at 62 seconds.
Not sure what's going on.
1345 and 1368. Linear solenoid. Only codes. No check engine. Just abs light on.
Thanks