Gen 3 Prius 2010-2015 Brake booster and actuator replacement for C1391 code
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Thank you for visiting Auto Scholar with Mr B! Today we take a look at replacing the brake booster assembly and the accumulator pump assembly on this 2010 Gen 3 Prius. You will need a good scan tool to bleed the system and perform the lateral solenoid calibration. I used a Autel Maxysis scantool and it worked well.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair and I will do my best to answer them in the comments.
Note: Channel may be compensated for items bought from the links below
Link to scantool used for this repair: amzn.to/408VOQA
#prius #brakeactuator #priusbrakes
Bro thanks for making this video. Your training here has helped me get a few more years out of my car during these hard times. Take care and god bless
I so happy I could help! Thanks for watching.
Great video Mr B. The pump in my 2010 started cycling regularly and I figured that was the problem. Did some searching and found out Toyota was honoring some kind of customer satisfaction program which replaced our assembly at no cost. But there is time limit on the program. Fortunately we made it with a month to spare.
That’s great news!
@FE3MX5 How did you go about applying for the customer satisfaction program? I can’t find anything online
I had been trying to get them to honor that for the last year or so and no dealership will and corporate is no help, in the process of fixing it myself lol.
Just updated, my prius 2013 was purchased on 2021, I am a second car user, appreciate that these comments to help me out, after read them I knew my car is still able to replace for free under 10 years and not reach 150K mileage(mine has reached to 120k), so I drove it to dealer, they gave me a free rental toyota car, after 10 days waiting I got my prius back finally. Also I found that former pump noise under the hond had been gone, now my prius return to silent driving. No any trouble at all! Thank you!😊😊 The biggest
Hello 👋 So I too have the same car as you and I’m wondering how you were able to get your car repaired for free? My car is also under 10 years and below the 150k mileage.
Nhtsa
@@andreanavarro2518 I called Toyota and they told me there was nothing they could do for me. I have a 2013 as well with only 104,000 miles on it.
How did you manage this? I called Toyota and they told me they could do nothing for me. I have a 2013 with only 104,000 miles on it. I've owned it 8 years.
Mr B. Thank you for your excellent presentation of this job. I mainly appreciate your focus on the details.
I just did my wifes car last week. It was a lot of work, but very manageable. Had a friend help me bleed the breaks and got it fixed. No issues at all now. Runs like new again. You dont need to electronically bleed the breaks.
How did you bleed the brakes? Just like a normal car? Or did you use one of the self bleeder things
and also what about the relearning process he talked about
Can you share your brake bleeding process without the use of the software?
Did you do a Prius
@@mattbrooks9928 just like a regular car. Breaks are still in perfect working condition. I had a buddy of mine press the breaks while I bled each one. No problems what so ever
This is absolutely the best video ive found for the replacement for a 2010. Thank you so much man!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Love the video, I would add/ suggest to clean the threads and chase them in order to make sure they will go in with ease.
Thanks for the shout-out. It was a pleasure to help you out, and help the channel. Great video, that covered alot of the great points.
As for Toyota, there is currently a warranty extension on the booster and accumulator on 3rd Gen Priuses and similar year Prius V, but it has to be within a certain VIN range, within a certain age, and within a certain mileage. I'm doubtful it will expand to a full recall, but only time will tell on that. The two 10mm nuts on the pump/accumulator are always a fight, but a good, small magnet is a necessity. You will invent new 4-letter words.
It is covered under Toyota Program for 2011-2015 model until 31 august 2021 unlimited miles. Replacement for Free. Just contact your dealer and NHTSA website.
@@rondhole I looked on the NHTSA website and couldn't find anything related to this for a 2013 Prius
@@forestryprof YOu can come to Toyota dealership or call them and ask for the repair or Costumer Satisfaction Program. It is almost the end of the program August 31. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf
@@rondhole Thanks! I contacted them and they're fixing it! No charge like just you said.
@@forestryprof yes, you almost at the end at the program. Good for you, it ends on August 31 2021
Having my dealer doing this replacement currently. It didn’t give a code but the pump that creates the needed vacuum keeps cycling every 5 seconds about 6X with the engine off and just opening the door of the car. Also at times I can hear a clicking sound from the right front area of car at a stoplight or drive thur. 1x hear a rubbing sound in the engine compartment where the booster is located while parking the car. Dealer said the repair is covered by Toyota’s enhanced warranty on that part, saw it online.
Hey, where did you find that the repair was covered? I might have the same problem..
Thank you for your video!! I watched it multiple times before I realized you in Augusta like me. Anyway my Prius actuator was giving me the dreaded groaning noise about every 15 seconds. I used your video extensively to replace the booster and activator. The job was kind of a pain but definitely doable. I bought an Autel scanner for the brake bleed process and it went smoothly.
Awesome! Yes I teach at ATC, small world.
What model of Autel did you buy? Did you have to get techstream software, as well to use with Autel? Did you have to transfer info from old ABS module to new ABS module - which I was told needs to be done.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 The actuator/booster/master cylinder unit is the square part on the top. The accumulator/ABS pump is the thing on the bottom that looks like two soda cans.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 I bought an Autel MK808. It was kinda pricey at $450, but I have a number of cars in my family that I service, so I think it will be something useful to have. Sorry for the late response.
@@steventhompson3679 Thank you for the response. I think I need to get the Autel Ulta at $5000. The ABS unit programming/coding needs to transferred from old ABS to new ABS. This is what I have been told. Maybe I am wrong, since I am Amateur... If I do NOT do the ABS programming, then Autel MS906TS will do the trick. Autel did not recommend MK808 for 2010 prius. Please provide any corrections, as needed
I’m here to report that I was successful in fixing my brakes with a used abs accumulator and brake booster off eBay. Using the tech stream software and tactrix obd2 dongle it worked with out a hitch to bleed the abs and do the linear offset learning. Don’t waste your money on cheap mini vci, I did that and it failed many times.
where did you get the techstream software? also, i searched for the dongle you mentioned and see several different versions. if you can point me to the one you used, that would be much appreciated.
@@Charles-in5xg This is probably too late but I just replaced both of these parts and used Tactrix Openport 2.0 from amazon and also Techstream v 16.00.020. I had problems with losing connection between techstream and the car with earlier versions of techstream. Got version 16.00.020 and the bleeding procedure and linear valve offset learning ran through with no problems. I also had problems with mini vci losing connection, but never tried the mini vci with later versions of techstream. I hope this is helpful to anyone else trying to do this on their own.
It is risky buying used items off ebay. It is not easy taking/putting items in from car - spending 7 hours. So, if there is defective item from ebay, need to restart everything all over again. Any hints you can provide on getting good items off ebay/amazon/other
@@Charles-in5xg sorry for late reply but I got the tech stream software with the mini vci I ordered from Amazon. It’s just a Dropbox link the seller provides and it’s cracked software but It works.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 no tips really as all parts are usually pulled from another car so, yea basically install and test. Imo once you do it once it’s easy to do again.
I am super jealous how easy it is to replace the assembly! On my 2008 Gen 2 Prius it's so much harder. One thing to everyone doing this yourself disconnect the battery, he didn't cover that.
Hi Joseph! I covered the battery disconnect at the 2:20 mark. You are right, the Gen 2 is probably twice as difficult as the Gen 3, especially since the inverter has to come out. Thanks for watching!
It is also free before 10 years 150k miles period. Toyota have campaign
@@rondhole Only if my car was four years younger. Hope you were able to benefit from the campaign. Thanks for letting me know.
@@JS-hg4vj yes, it is a pity that Toyota limit the campaign up to 10y only. You can always try to call Toyota 1800 head quarter number and ask for deal. Sometimes, few % discount could be offered. 14 years is not new but we don't want to just give up and total the car. There is a pattern on the way the sticker on the pump. If it is wrap around the cylinder, it is the revised version. If it is in parallel with the cylinder booster axis, it is the old defective model if you look for used parts
And also disconnect the hybrid
Great video!!
Thank you and your friend Jeremy!!
I ran into that today!
Thanks so much for this video,I'm having this same issue in my 2010 Prius and the buzzing noise is really getting on my nerves,I heard about the recall so I may check with Toyota but other than this issue I love this car,the Prius is one of the best vehicles I've ever had,it's an amazing car.
@D C The program is over, and I think this is an extended warranty not a recall.
Thank you very much 😊 I'm having trouble on my Prius here in Fiji and the parts are very hard to find, btw really enjoyed ur vd
E-bay😉
thank you very much for sharing your experience!
Thanks for watching!
You dind't share the bleeding process?
thanks for the reply and good morning. i got it figured out.
Glad to hear that Hubert. Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir! Good video, the bleeding process would have made it the best ever. Also it would have been a little more useful if you stayed up front the need for the recalibration. Thanks though! Very helpful.
Would have loved if you showed how you did the bolts from the back
@@DavidFleisch-l3v unfortunately there is no good camera angle for that.
That's very useful video . I have been driving with all four lights on dashboard for the past one year. I have Prius V 2013 with 200,000 miles . And I am not interesting in spending so much money. I can fix it myself for $200 to $250 for the used part , but I am not bothered to fix it. ABS system is useful if you are driving at very high speed on a rainy day. Just avoid freeways on rainy days or drive within speed limits. For me, it's not worth it. Thanks for the video.
Good luck my friend, and thanks for watching!
@forestryprof YOu can come to Toyota dealership or call them and ask for the repair or Costumer Satisfaction Program. It is almost the end of the program August 31. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf
If that is what it takes for people to drive at the speed limit - every car should have this feature.....😂
I just got the lights. I am afraid one day break will not work. Did you have any other issues besides one you mentioned?
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 No issues, breaks will work just fine as long as you replace break liners. And flush break fluid once in 100,000 miles and make sure there's no air bubbles , if you are replacing break fluid yourself.
do you have a video showing the full process of bleeding, this are nor regular system(hybrid)
I am watching from Bangladesh I'm a mechanic I like work a lot But I don't understand your languages💝💝
you can bleed the system manually with another person to help you pump the brakes from inside the car
Have you done this yourself? Most cars you can but if you did do one of these. Does it not need the relearning process I just swapped my master cylinder with a used one. I think I can do the bleeding manually but was curious about the relearning process he is talking about
Hello, I have many third-generation Prius ABS pump valve bodies specifically designed to solve C1391 malfunctions
hi, thanks for this video.
i have Auris 2013 hybrid that seems i have the same ABS assembly and booster pump.
i have a problem for very long time.
a noise appear only when i depress the brake pedal only after light press.
for example: when coming slowly to full stop at trafic light the brake is fine.
when i get green traffic light i leave the brake pedal and i hear noise and small vibration from the booster area.
if youll ask me to describe the noise i would say - low pitch farting noise (i'm very sorry for that but its the closest noise i can describe to what i actually have)
it will not happen when im pressing lighter on the brake pedal or harder on the brake pedal, only there is a sweet spot which it will do that.
the noise increase when i'm down hill (the angle of the car), but also when the car is fully stopped in parking it will still do that, only when i leave the brake pedal.
the electric booster pump working perfect with the regular noise.
the car brakes perfect with the brake assist, all brake system works good exept this noise.
i'v been at the dealership, thay heard the noise, scanned for errors but there wasn't any.
thay said maybe air in the system (thay bleed it few years ago but still i have this noise).
i'm looking for solution maybe to grease something or apply some lubricant to something to fix this noise?
maybe around this brake pedal lock pin?
to replace the booster assembly to a new one it will cost here half the price of this car.
would it be better if i'll record a video of this problem?
Sorry for my english, doing my best.
No need to apologize for your language, you are doing great! Normally if these parts are the issue, they will set an ABS code. I would lubricate everything like you said and see if that helps. Thanks for watching! Let me know if that works.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Hi, I have recorded and uploaded a video about it.
maybe you can recognise where this noise is comming from.
i can hear it from behind the fire wall but i might be wrong.
might it be air in the system even thouhg the brake works perfect and no pedal sinking or weird behaviour?
thanks from advance.
czcams.com/video/6SpeYbCCPsI/video.html
The plural for Prius is “Prii” just like Cactus is “Cacti”! Lol
One of the biggest EV trainers out there, Craig Van Battenberg from AC/DC agrees with you. I took a training class from him and this is in his manual, ha ha!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB lol i had no idea there were others out there with my crazy sense of humor, thats great!!🤣👌
Thanks for an amazing video. I followed it completely but have a new issue now. Car thinks brakes are pressed all time. Brake lights are ON and I can start car without pressing brake pedal. Did anyone else faced the same problem? What's the resolution. Thanks in advance. Am stuck for weeks now with this issue
The brake like switch (near the pedal) needs to be adjusted. Sometimes the switch gets bumped during the install and it messes with the adjustment. Hope this helps!
I’m having the same issue!!
@@AutoScholarwithMrBI’m having the same issue and it seems like the actuator won’t extend enough to allow brake pedal to reach brake light switch. I was thinking about bleeding them again, but now will try to bend the metal or even put a plastic spacer. I already extended the light switch as far as it goes, but it still wasn’t enough.
Gracias maestro por compartir su experiencia
De nada!
Jesus Christ, why is it such an expensive part? It's not ok. As long as hybrids repair is so expensive (around $3000 just to replace ABS) people will drive pickup trucks that can be fixed with a hammer and screwdriver.
Thank you for video!
Well the part is comparable cost to any other OEM actuator. The problem I see is a higher failure rate and zero aftermarket manufacturer that is making these. Dealers do vary on price so I would shop around. Some dealers will ship as well.
My Prius ABS fault light is on. I scanned the booster and the master cylinder. My car is in the range of 150,000 miles in 2013. I don’t know if the Toyota warranty is out of warranty.
Do you have a video for the bleeding
THIS REPAIR IS UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY AND WILL BE REPLACED BY THE TOYOTA DEALER FOR FREE, WHICH INCLUDES A RENTAL CAR. The Prius must be under 10 years old(from original purchase) and must be under 150,000 miles. Our Prius is currently in the dealership waiting for parts, which is on back-order. Possibly it will be ready by mid-February.
Hi. Do you happen to have any link or info on this? Please. I called them and they said it has expired already.
@@44liwi I believe that the extended warranty was for 10 years/ 150,000 miles and the last model year under that warranty was 2012, which my car was. There might have been calendar date limit also, so it could have expired. We got in just under the wire, I guess. The hybrid battery went bad in December and the brakes went out in January. We liked the loaner Prius Prime so much that we traded in the 2012 on a 2022. We had to wait a few weeks for the new car to come in because of all the shortages. Most all new Toyotas are pre-sold but, depending on the pecking order, if they are getting more than one, you might be able to get the one you want or wait for the next shipment.
I found out about the extended warranty online and then found it on the Toyota website. Toyota is famous for their secret warranties and you have to know what to ask for. If you have been a new Toyota repeat customer, you might be able to contact the area field manager and get something done.
I took my 2013 Toyota Prius type 2 in for this.
I was told that when I took it in I can get it diagnosed for about 300 or I can just get the break booster recalled. And me being the typical Prius user I said just do the recall. When I got my receipt it says I received a software update but no claims on the receipt of a replacemen. The car ran fine for 2 days as I’m a Uber driver I drive a lot.
I was under 150k miles the first time. But after those 2 days the problem came back. Now I have just one code appear. C1391. And now I’m watching this video to replace the break booster and actuator for myself. But I need that amazing code reader and to learn how to purge the break line. Which is different than a food f150 😂
The things we learn and go thru to save thousands of dollars…😅
I got screwed over. Hopefully this message of mine is someone else’s warning to make sure the item is replaced before taking back a car that appears to be running fine to later have a break booster/actuator that turns on and off that doesn’t always work efficiently.
And hopefully someone has some advice for me to still get it fixed before I decide to do the job myself.
@@leonardofranco5098
A "code reader" will NOT fix your car! A bi-directional scanner is necessary. Expect to spend $1,000's for one. My Snap-on diagnostic scanner cost me $14K in 2016. Then there is the troubleshooting software which a subscription costs several $100. every 6 months. On top of that, you have to buy access to the repair manual.
If the job wasn't completed, take it back, they are obligated to complete the repair, especially if it was a safety recall like this one.
You might have received a letter from Toyota if the car needed an emission or safety update. But because this was one of Toyota's "secret" warranties, it is basically the owner's responsibility to know about it.
Toyota had one of their "secret" warranties with exhaust manifolds cracking on the 20R engines. I had replaced several of these manifolds at my shop. When the manifold cracked on my 1976 Toyota Celica, I had found out about the "secret" warranty, took my car in and they replaced my entire exhaust system from updated exhaust manifold to exhaust outlet tip(including new hangers).
A customer of mine with a first generation Camry had his automatic transaxle go bad. The Toyota dealer was happy to repair it for $3600.(an astronomical for the mid 1980's). I told him about the "secret" Toyota warranty, but he didn't want to take it back to the dealer. I repaired it for him at a fraction of the cost Toyota had charged him and he was happy.
The correct factory warranty repair is to replace the entire brake unit. One look under the hood would be evident if the brake unit was replaced. They don't have to record it on a workorder. It is an internal repair sent to Toyota.
A programming update is standard procedure if there is an update affecting car emissions.
The replacement units are on perennially on backorder and they usually keep the car for days. Toyota provides a loaner car while your car is in for an extended stay.
Don't attempt to repair it yourself!
@@automatedelectronics6062 My Prius is 26,000 miles over what the warranty covers so Toyota will not replace my brake assembly. Guess I’m SOL and I can’t afford to have a mechanic do the work so I have to replace it myself.
The 2 mounts you showed how to reinstall are not correct @13:30 according to the diagram. Thanks for the video
Pissed my 2010 developed this code and now I have to attempt this repair on my own. I’m tempted to sell, car only has 140k miles. Plus Prius with the head gasket issues and hybrid battery needs changing as mine is 50% health
Same boat here with only 96k on mine...Toyota reliability ain't no more
When do head gasket go? are they hard to fix? How do you know battery is at 50% - is there a tester?
You mention needing a good scan tool to do the calibration. Plus I imagine a short term subscription to the Toyota data is necessary. Would you consider doing a video to cover this topic?
Next one I get in!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Need video urgently...... thanks !!
@@AutoScholarwithMrBDid you do video on bleeding and cal
wow that looks tough
hello, I have a 2009 Toyota Camry 40 hybrid, I have the same problem with the abs block, how can it be solved or what model does the abs block come from, I was told that the block comes from a 2009-10 prius
do you have a video for installing the pump? I have a hard time putting the cushions and the nuts in for the put, thanks.
Well at least I know I can take out the wiper cowl in record time. After changing plugs coil pack and struts.
Just a quick couple questions from a former ASE mechanic who is tackling this job this weekend.
1. How long did it take to replace them?
2. Im going to have the car towed to Toyota after I replace both to have of bled. Is there anything I should do or not do before I have it towed?
Ok, so probably four hours your first time with mechanical experience, maybe less since you aren’t doing the scan tool stuff. As far as towing, nothing special outside of keeping the front wheels off the ground.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Thanks for the quick response. I just meant should I manually bleed it like a normal master cylinder replacement first or just not touch anything and have it towed to the shop.
@BigBadWolf.............. they are going to rebleed it anyway, so it’s up to you. I’d fill it up with fluid and tow it. Hope this helps.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
That is exactly what I was planning on doing and if that's what you would do then sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks again for the replies
@@BigBadWolf.............. thanks for watching!
Holy Isht!!!! Can I borrow $1000 till the 33rd of Nevuary? I’m good for it. Promise. Tools are expensive!
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
there's a way to decide where the leak come from(abs module or break pump)
I was just told I need a new brake booster and pump replacement. I didn’t know this was a known issue that they would fix for free and my “extension” (that I wasn’t even aware of) was up July 30, 2021.. the lights came on Nov 28.. 4 months after. So they won’t fix for free. Does anyone know who to talk to about this? I tried contacting Toyota North America to explain I never knew about this issue and extended warranty, and we were in the middle of a pandemic when this happened, I lost my job and wasn’t driving much then.. but so far they haven’t cared. I was also quoted some ridiculous amount like $3500 to fix and my car only has 97700 miles. Is it required to fix? Any one have any suggestions on what to do?
I'm in the same boat. Toyota today said if they get enough complaints they'll have to issue a recall.
same boat also. should we contact toyota.
In the same boat. I just called Toyota customer care/NHTSA -7/21/22. no luck.....
Damnit
I am going to do everything, except the final testing, scanning, etc. which I can not do at home, since it requires dealer equipment. Do you know what I need to tell dealer to do? Some things I got from video are - scan tool, Re-calibrate linear solenoid valve. Master cylinder bleeding can be done at home???
Bleeding and setting the linear valve.
Great Video, my prius is exhibiting C1391. Can u recommend visual checks prior to disassembling? I can hear the motor cycling. Thank you and once again...Great Video!
Once you have that code, it’s pretty much a done deal. There isn’t anything that would show a problem externally. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Hi another question, shop says 1391 code could be as simple as brake reservoir? Does that sound Right? Thank you
@@EdwardGolonka-b4t does not sound right to me. I’ve never seen that.
My Update 10-2022 2010 Prius
This happened to me about 3 months ago. I have been driving with lights on and my MPG has dropped significantly
Just got the car back from Toyota dealer. They did the software update recall and reset the lights. I did not replace booster or accumulator ($3068)
I noticed on the way home that my brakes regen was working again. about 45 MPG
Started the car later and the lights came back on and brake regen was not working.
Cleared the lights this AM and drove about 15 minutes and regen was working (I have a scanner that will do this)
So apparently the computer triggers the lights and shuts down the regen. I will be leaving on a 900 mile trip in the morning mostly fwy. My thinking is that I don't use my brakes on the highway much so my millage should be maybe a little less than normal. (I'll let you know)
I want to see if the lights are triggered by a restart of the car or a certain mileage or maybe a number of brake depression (anybody here know?)
It looks like I will need to do this eventually but I need to go on this trip tomorrow so I guess well see what happens.
BTW. The engine brake (B on the shifter) will still work and regen even with the lights on
I hope this helps someone, Might be my last Toyota.
There is a class action lawsuit about another issue on these cars. It seems like it may be kind of related. If you didn't get the postcard look it up on line This is just one of the firms trying to get your business but you can probably go to the Toyota site and just see the term
www.lawyers4lemons.com/settlement-reached-in-toyota-prius-class-action-lawsuit/
Did you go with same part number for the brake booster assembly or the modified new part number that was recommended in the service bulletin? If the latter, did you update the calibration file? I didn't hear this mentioned.
Thank you Sir for fantastic explanation and great recording and audio. I have same problem on our 2010 but no code. Could the problem be something else?
My brake light,tracking system etc comes on & goes off on their own.
Much appreciate a response back please Can’t smog the car because of that.
If you have a light on with no code, the only thing I can think of is the brake fluid being low. Check your level. If it is good, make sure you are using a high quality scan tool and scan every system in the car. I hope this helps!
MrB thank you for responding so quickly I really appreciate that. I never have an engine light on with the code C 1191. Right now my engine light is on with a misfiring on cylinder number one. I believe it could be My head gasket is leaking because I was losing some coolant until I poured in the quick-fix solution. My brake fluid is not leaking at all. but I have all the symptoms related to code C 1191. I also change my hybrid battery about nine months ago with the refurbished and that solved my problem of the car shutting down while driving on the freeway because I believe it’s a defense mechanism when the battery gets too hot. And I have a permanent code A080. I was told it would go away after driving the Prius 500 mile it’s been over 10,000 and now I am stuck can’t renew my registration. on top of that, I just had my catalytic converter stolen in front of my house in a nice neighborhood over 40 days ago. The dealer charge $2800. I just had to pay a deductible for my insurance. Mr. B your information is very valuable. If you would be willing to reach out to me on a private level, I will be willing to make a small donation to your channel.
I am in Southern California.
Greetings, I'm from Panama. I liked your video on how to change the actuator. I live in Panama, and I have problems with the actuator pump. I've bought it twice on Ebay and it doesn't last more than two months. consult when I put the actuator, I bleed the lines manually I do not use a scanner that will be bad
I have heard that it is possible to bleed the brakes without a scan tool, but I have never tried it. On these I do recommend buying new as the used ones have a high probability of failure. Thanks for watching!
where can i buy please
@@carlosalbertobryangonzalez9528 Any Toyota dealership should be able to get these
Thanks for the great instructions. Do you have one for bleeding and all procedure involved with the scanner?
I dont due to the differences in scan tool brands, but if you follow the instructions on the tool it is very easy with every brand I’ve used.
Thanks
Why did You not show the bleeding procedure on the brake pedal simulator or the Calibration of the linear solenoid?
Hello
I have Prius 3rd gen 2010
When i press the brake pedal i hear noisy sound like knocking or ticking
What could be the possible reasons?
Is your ABS light on?
I have a 2010 Prius. No warning lights are on, but when I press the brake it makes a weird sound like "ummp.... ump,ump,ump... ump.ump". I was told it was the brake actuator going bad. Since I don't have any lights, can I just replace the actuator and not the booster?
Hi, I have a 2012 Prius and is normal for the brake pedal to move side to side? It seems to make clunking noise when going over a lot of little bumps, how do I tighten it? Thank you.
Hi, thanks a lot for the video.
Tell me please if I will replace the pump and accumulator only; and will kep the same booster .
Do I have to program anything or no ?
I have a 2014 Toyota axio hybrid and my brake is giving problems
If we replace the booster with a used one, will it create a problem if we change it with used booster from another 10-15 Prius but with a different part number. For example the one on my car is 47210-47310. There are once on sale with part numbers 47230-47350. Will they match or will I have a compatibility problem after installation?
Thanks.
I’m not sure on the interchange numbers. I would contact a Toyota parts department and ask them.
It is covered under Toyota Program for 2011-2015 model until 31 august 2021 unlimited miles. Replacement for Free. Just contact your dealer and NHTSA website.
@@rondhole I got into this a little late, as now my lights are lighting. Any way this program is coming back. I contacted Toyota Customer care and NHTSA - no luck
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 you contact the dealership and 1800 toyota number. Who knows if they can waive partial cost. Otherwise, buy the original parts kit and install it somewhere cheaper. It is safety issue, you are liable for causing any damage or casualty if you do not fix it. Basically, you cannot drive it until it is fixed.
@@rondhole sounds like fun
Where can I buy those parts online? I have a 2017 Toyota Aqua which is the japanese version of that Prius
Some dealers sell these online. Dealer is the only place I know that sells these new.
Thank you for this beautiful video. How can you calibrate it please and what kind of tools do you use?
I use either a snap on Zeus or an Autel Maxisys
My Prius 3 2013 lights are on brake,Abs,traction control.need information on problem thanks
You would need to provide the trouble codes
Abs problem
do you know if somebody has try to fix the abs module, c1391 say is a leak, so could be a leak in a kind of gasket
The leak area is metal to metal contact. There is no fix outside of replacement.
how long did this job take? and did you have to do anything with suspension? i seen you loosened the strut mount bolts
So my 2013 V with 177k is making the noise every 10-12 seconds but no code or braking issues. I see it is common to replace both the actuator as well as booster at the same time but which part is really causing the problem? I’m hoping to just replace the one part with a used low mileage replacement and make it to 200k miles. Dealer wants 3500 for the job replacing everything
Normally the booster unit and the pump are replaced together because one can cause failure of the other. The accumulator valve that normally leaks is in the booster unit, and that wears the pump out trying to keep up with the lost pressure. I will have a video soon going deeper into this. Thanks for watching!
I just replaced my spiral cable because of a horn issue and now I have lights on the dash and error codes. The codes that are coming up are C1203 (ABS Current Engine control system communication circuit malfunction), C1231 (ABS Current malfunction in steering angle sensor), C1336 (ABS Current Zero calibration of yaw rate sensor undone) and C1345 (ABS current Not Learning linear valve offset abnormality). None of these errors were present before I touched the spiral cable. The codes will not clear with my Innova computer. Suggestions
The part you replaced also acts as the steering angle sensor, and I believe that needs to be calibrated. I am not sure if that can be done with the tool you have.
I would like to know if the break pump or booster is bad if the car will not start aka go ready ? Thanks for your video.
It may not if the module has failed to make the canbus network fail in the car. I’ve never seen one do it but it is a possibility.
I have a 2012 prius I want to know if I change the brake booster needs to be the same part number or I can use one whith a different part number thanks
Great video.! I am based in Jordan (Middle East) and have Prius 2010 imported from Europe (Netherland). I got the same error code recently, and upon initial checkup, technician confirmed that ABS is malfunctioned and needs to be replaced. I am looking for the part numbers but get them online but the local Toyota dealer refused to share them. Anyone can help or guide on how can I get the right part numbers?
I use this site for part numbers. It may not work in your country. If not, just search “Toyota parts lookup” and it should give you something. Thanks for watching, sir!
www.partsautonationtoyotawinterpark.com
So it doesn’t need a Lexus software to do this project? I have a 2012 Lexus ct200h Same engine and hybrid
Should be able to use a pro level scan tool to do this. I use either a Snap On Zeus or an Autel Maxisys but others work as well. I believe you can use a laptop and techstream software too, I just do not have experience with that.
I don’t see any response regarding the bleeding part! And also where can we get the parts if we don’t wanna spend $1400 buying from delar?
Hello! Thanks for the video! I'm in the market to have this done to my 2012 Prius Plugin and was wondering about how much you charged to do this so I know what to expect when going to different mechanics. Keep up the great content!
I think it calls for about 6-7 hours of labor, so it would probably be somewhere around $600-$800 of labor plus parts. I don’t charge for work since I’m an instructor at a school. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB how much would be in parts?
@@jdmfans6078 The last one I did was about $1600 but the one before was like $900, so shop around dealers, they vary a lot.
@@jdmfans6078 The last one I did was about $1600 but the one before was like $900, so shop around dealers, they vary a lot.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I can attest to this. The Toyota dealer prices for parts DO vary greatly! Many of the dealers that sell parts online are significantly cheaper than my local dealers, even after shipping costs are figured in. I have purchased from Olathe Toyata several times.
Hi i have the bigest problem with my toyota prius plz help i changed caliper pipe abs pomp disc and pads still driver side wheel is hot as anything
Why is it only problematic in the USA? Part of the problem is probably no regular brake fluid change unlike in Europe
Hi! Thank you for the video. What should I expect as a repair cost when taking this to a mechanic? I want to pay a fair price but don't want to over pay.
6-7 hours of labor plus whatever the part costs is what I can tell you. Since parts and labor hour costs are different, it is hard to say. I’ve seen it anywhere from $1200-$2500 from posts from other owners.
Do you leave the brake fluid level sensor disconnected for the entire bleed procedure?
Hi, we have a 2008 with this problem. Dealer confimed the problem and quoted $3751. The car's probably only worth $5k so not worth having the dealer do the work. Mind if I ask what regional area you are located and if close enough, ifyou'd take it on? I'm in Baltimore.
2008 is a Gen 2 , so this video does not apply. I do have a video on Gen 2 however. I do not do any outside work, as I am an instructor. $3700 seems extremely high, even for a dealer.
@AutoScholarwithMrB I thought that as well, it's partly because they're quoting 10 hrs!! When these were recalled it was a 4hr job.
Is it always essential to change both the parts or problem can be fixed by changing any one of them?
I always suggest changing both
I had the exact problem. I have a 2011 Prius and just had my mechanics replace the actuator and booster but it still has all the brake/ABS lights on after the replacement. I've got a few error codes:
C1203 - ECM communication malfunction
C1336 - Zero Point Calibration of Deceleration Sensor Undone
C1345 - Linear solenoid valve offset learning undone
C1451 - Motor drive permission malfunction
Any ideas? Thanks!
Sounds like the linear valve was not set correctly. Was a new ABS unit installed?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Yes, it's a new unit. Not sure why it did not work. Also noticed the installed actuator unit is dry (the left side part that you are holding @ 4:19 in your video). Is it supposed to have fluid going through here? Thank you so much!
Thanks for so much great advice! Can you tell me what the model number is for your Autel Maxysis?
MS906 TS
@forestryprof YOu can come to Toyota dealership or call them and ask for the repair or Costumer Satisfaction Program. It is almost the end of the program August 31. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I am getting the MS906TS. Do you have or know any other CZcams videos that show to to use for Brake bleeding and Linear solenoid valve adjustments....
brake bleeding procedure? kinda incomplete vid. is there a part 2?
Brake bleeding is done by the scan tool, and it depends on which one you use. It also takes two people to bleed and at the time of filming, I was the only one there. I used an Autel Maxisys MS906 to perform the bleeding.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Do you think an Autel MD802 "All Systems" would be capable of bleeding the brakes (I think it may), and performing the lateral solenoid calibration (I'm not sure)?
@@richardhoover8021 I’m not sure, I’ve never used that one. It is on the lower end of the Autel systems, so it may not.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you for your prompt response. Do you think the AUTEL MK808 would be up for the job?
@@richardhoover8021 I think the 808 is like the one I have, and I have heard that it does the same thing. I can’t be sure, but I would think it works. I have a student with one and he likes it a lot.
i have a 2010 prius. the lights went on abs brake light and the slippering one on the left of panel. car seems to run well and lights went outl. took for a test drive and sped it and braked fast. lights went on again. can i safely drive car to get it to repair? Also
Toota dealer wants 3900 tp fix. am i safe to take it elsewhere?
Without codes I couldn’t say if it is safe to drive. I will say in my opinion if this part is bad, the car is not safe to drive. If you take it elsewhere I would make sure the shop has done previous hybrid work before. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Thanks Mr. B, I've done this procedure with the help of your video but the brake lights are stuck on now. Why do you think this could be?
This happened to me once, brake switch is out of adjustment. Push the brake pedal in, pull the switch plunger out, and pull the pedal back, it should readjust.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Wow lightening fast reply! I did adjust the "wingnut" part of the switch, but the lights are still on. Do I need to use pliers to pull on the actual switch button? I don't want to break it! Thank you!
My brakes lights are also ON and car starts without pressing brake pedal. Any solution? What did u do?
@@ash27023231 I adjusted the brake light switch and that fixed my problem. It's up above where the top of the brake pedal rests when your foot is not on it. I think I just had to twist it to lengthen the switch so that the top of the brake pedal hit the switch sooner, therefore turning off the brake lights.
Yes, gently
Are there any early signs/symptoms of a brake pump or the booster failing? Before the information cluster shows warning lights and codes when scanned.
The pump running more frequently or weird noises, like squeaks and grinding, are early symptoms.
@@AutoScholarwithMrBThanks. Is that same for both the accumulator and actuator?
If I were to replace the assembly myself, do you think I could find a mechanic who could calibrate it?
Most likely. I would call around and ask.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Great. Thank you, I appreciate your help.
@ExMachina70 thanks for watching!
Hi , thank you for your great videos. Would a Prius 2009 take a prius 2012 ABS actuator?
No, they are completely different
The video for the 2009 will be this one: czcams.com/video/H9tCVY9dPQ8/video.html
I have a Prius 2010 showing PCs problem also Chang the abs twice but all invain only 14 to 20 days no error but after these days it's once again show the same error what can I do for that to avoid in future. Thanx
Are you using a new unit?
Mr. B,
I’m in nyc and I have a 2010 Toyota Prius it got in water when there was a big rain about 2 years ago. Wanted you to look at car, where are you located?
I am in the southeast, and work at a college, so not a regular shop. I would post on the Prius pages on Facebook and see what you find. Thanks for watching!
Can you please tell me the price of both these parts ? And are they different from the right hand version of prius ? Because i’m using right hand drive prius of 2013 model
I got this exact same issue! How much is this going to cost me to repair at a shop? Parts and labor?
Prices are everywhere. $1500 or so is the average price I am hearing.
Can you get at the pump easier from the bottom, or is the trans in the way?
I cant see the bottom being an easier solution.
Hi. I have toyota prius 2011. I get thos erro codes C0210 and c1238. Any one can tell me what it can be? What to fix? Thank you.
my snap on and identafix seem to suggest a traditional bleed before using the scanner and before bleeding the stroke simulator. has left me with a bit of confusion
I did not traditionally bleed before, but I have heard of people doing so. I have never had issue bleeding through the scan tool. My Snap On Zeus was having issues with the linear calibration, and my Autel scan tool worked perfectly on that and bleeding, which is why for Prius it is my first choice.
Thanks for this video. I had my 2010 prius brake booster and actuator replaced; however, after I got it back from my mechanic, the traction control seems to be very sensitive. When I made a hard left or right turn, (like in a u-turn), and when the speed of the car is at 12 mpg, the traction control kicks in and I get a burst of brake pumps on the outer front tire. I don't get any code errors. But I do see the traction control light come up just as the burst of brake pumps occur. When the brake pumps stop, the traction control lights are off as well. Any idea how to fix it? I appreciate any help I can get.
That’s really strange. I’ve had issues with traction control problems if you have an odd sized tire or wheel.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB wheel size are normal.. i get my tire from america's tire and i get the recommended. by the way, the replacement parts are used parts. do i need to do any type of special calibration?
Ok, did you replace the units with new or used parts?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB used. used for both booster and actuator. my mechanic tried 2 different sets and same problem on both sets.
@@Nustudios I would have to see the scan tool data when it happens. Maybe a coding error or a wheel speed sensor may be freaking out and sending bad info to the module.
hello
thank you for the amazing video,
if you could you tell us where could we buy the parts ( ABS booster ) from online ?
thank you,
In this video I used genuine Toyota parts, so I suppose any Toyota dealer that has an online portal. I am not aware of anyone making these aftermarket.
I’m going to install the parts myself and then drive it to a Toyota dealer to bleed and calibrate
I would tow it. You will have no brakes after install.
Ok thanks !
Thank you for the video, it was so helpful and I managed to change the brake booster and accumulator based of it. However I am having issues with bleeding the system and also relearning the linear solonoid. I have a 2010 but got a 2012 brake booster and accumulator so I’m thinking I need to reset the abs ecu but that’s not working for me. Any tips ? I’m using tech stream software too
Are the part numbers the same on all parts? If not it may not work the same. I’m not familiar with tech stream, on this one I used a mid level Autel to calibrate and bleed.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I don’t know if they were the same or different parts, they sure look identical except one is from a 2012 and mine is a 2010. The issue was the cheap dongle I used was failing during the abs bleeding process. So I got a better obd2 dongle and used tech stream software and it worked no probelem. Codes are gone and brakes are working great. Ty for the video
@@radiospank what OBD2 adapter did you end up using, and where did you get Techstream?
@@radiospank The replacement part is probably different number. We have updated version with sticker wrap around the booster not parallel to the cylinder axis. Check if you used the same old bad parts
If a diffrent brakes booster is used does it need to re code?