I know once I found this out, I'm currently working on making one that requires no modifying parts not even the o rings to try and make this type of engine more accessible to people who don't want to destroy parts my first prototype didn't run but sounds very promising.
Wow. Very impressive. At first I was trying hard to find the pneumatic cylinders, But then I saw the engine block pieces. Top notch. Maybe this will inspire lego to modify their pieces if they see it.
I was also trying to find pneumatic cylinders but they were so expensive so I’m glad I found this design. I do believe I am one of the first to use this mechanism to make a four cylinder and two cylinder engine.
Nice engine! when i saw you lift the engine I thought that was cool, because not too many engines you can hold while it runs, I have always been interested in pneumatics, this was really cool to see! well done!
Wow. Just wow. This is incredible. Good work man! I mean I could never come up with this stuff. I never even knew an engine like this could be built out of LEGO. You have just earned a new subscriber.
U should make videos of testing out all of these lego engines to see how powerful they are by attaching them to the differential of lego vehicles and driving them up steep hills and/or by putting heavy loads or by doing both that would make for a great video 🔥
Thanks so much. If you do build it with my instructions please let me know if all the steps are clear and if i need to improve on anything in the future.
Been trying different things in this regard, myself. Do you grind out the channels on the sides of the pistons to seat the o-rings? Which size o-ring do you use? I've been trying to fit some and haven't found one I'm happy with. Down to 7x9x1mm so far, but I'm not yet happy with how they seat. Good job. Nice to see this kind of thing! Not a fan of the full piston style. Want to see if some engine/transmission/clutch systems are possible and fit them in some MOC vehicles. Thanks for the video.
I use 4mm ID and 1mm thick O-Rings. And yes I do grind the grove on the piston a little deeper by putting the piston in a drill chuck and cut a tiny amount away with a small hack saw
@@Brett_M That is such a tiny o-ring size... I was not expecting that. Very interesting! I think I'll get some and try them soon. Thanks very much for your response -- I later found another video of yours with comment discussion to the same effect. Have you tried the above-piston schrader valve trick to avoid the need for the pneumatic switch/timing arm? I've been tempted further to mod together a separate camshaft assembly involving those valves too and make genuine scale almost pushrod-V8 style.
@@StephenKuehn Yes, I have tried the over head valve but it didn’t work because I never put a O-ring on the piston. I might try it again in the future but I have a few video ideas I want to do first.
Is there any way the extra branch of the T-piece could simply be used as the exhaust? I haven’t worked with Lego pneumatics and it might take an extra switch, but it could probably be timed so that it opens when the piston’s returning to the top of the cylinder - wouldn’t need the exhaust port drilled in that way. Alternatively - though this may cause extra wear on the tubes - a cam could be used to pinch it when you want air pushing against the piston.
That might work but you need the the exhaust to be let out when the pistons at the bottom of the cylinder. Personally I would just drill a small hole where it needs to be than clutter up the engine with another one. You always can use the cylinders for a moc cause you will never see the holes anyway.
Doesnt the switch already have an exaust? When the middle and left ports are connected, the right has free air flow, but it wont go in any holes, just out the top where the handle is
I did that because I had to block off one branch of the tee on the top of the cylinder off. Plus it holds oil. it doesn’t need to be there. Thanks for the 3 views:)
This is the first time I see someone using a modified cosmetic cylinders/pistons instead of the pneumatic ones for a pneumatic engine. Nicely done. Is the T piece just to fit in the 2x2 "cylinder head" or does the other hose actually do something? It seems like it's plugged off.
Oh wow, you're using actual piston heads instead of LEGO pneumatic cylinders! Seems a lot more compact but how does it compare in terms of RPM and torque? Could it move a vehicle?
I’m not sure how it would compare to a engine with pneumatic cylinders but if you would gear it down a bit the engine is super powerful and definitely would work great in a vehicle.
I tried to my a chassie for it but its to weak but it works nicely alone but i used small rubber bands instead of the orings by overlaping them so i might have a bit of leak but over all well done
@@Brett_Myeah a built it today but the overlaped rubberbands make to much friction and very little seal do i need to buy those and also my modified switches dont seal that well maybe if i buy o rings and if i made the conector holes bigger by drilling them if you have advice please tell me im really enjoying building your stuff
@@Gloomz69I would recommend the o-rings they don’t cost very much and you can make a lot of engines with them. Note, you will have to make the groves in the pistons a little bit deeper for the O-rings. My switches leak a lot also I’m not sure what the deal is with that. Also, I do recommend drilling the ports slightly bigger in the connectors just make sure there is enough material that they don’t break. Also, don’t forget to drill in an exhaust port.
@@nicktherailfan6040 I was thinking on doing a video sometime. What I did was take a piston and put it in a drill chuck and ground down the groove a tiny bit with a small saw. I have a link for the right size o-rings in the description of my 4cylinder lPE
@@Brett_M but why do I need to request it? Am I going to share details? (you don't need to set the permission "access needed" because you got "free" "paid 1.99" etc.) Also looks like your a beginner. Checkout my channel: czcams.com/users/steamYT if it doesn't work then channel name is: steamYT (icon colour is orange)
Lol I have some zip ties on the tubes already I would rather have the line blow off the cylinder than the switch because it’s easier to put back on than the switch
I would think 4mm Id and 1mm thick. I’ll have to measure them but I don’t have any currently that’s why my 4 cylinder instructions aren’t up yet cause the back two pistons don’t have o rings😔
I got a regulator with a 1/8npt out put and connected a tip from a air nozzle spray gun and put the hose into it and super glued and pipe taped it. I wanna make a better connection soon.
Good luck building drive.google.com/file/d/1_IZhpg9-HYnx1cdkfFhoPrITlYfGrz9Z/view?usp=drivesdk
It says i need access
ok
The steps from 70 onwards seem to be missing lots of pieces from the diagram no?
Yes it is, that’s because the software I used for the instructions wouldn’t let me add the crank.
ok
Wow I never knew you could use normal pistons like that for pneumatics, I thought they were purely cosmetic!
i knew of it. i just lost all of my legos to my mom who pawned all 50lb's of it for money
Well once you add the orings there is no reason why they wouldn't work.
@@FokkerBoombass nice video from 6 days ago
They are, people just figured out how to modify some pieces to make it work
I know once I found this out, I'm currently working on making one that requires no modifying parts not even the o rings to try and make this type of engine more accessible to people who don't want to destroy parts my first prototype didn't run but sounds very promising.
Sounds like a real engine. Well built!
Thanks😀👍
That's so cool. Sounds like a real flat-twin engine
Thanks👍
This runs rather well! One of the better LPEs I've seen. very compact, too. You could use this for something!
I would love to put it in a car but the air source is kinda a problem
@@Brett_M 2 liter bottles on a trailer? Or you could just have a really long line.
@@AiOinc1 Buy small electric compressor xD
Lol then you can plug the compressor into the wall and still have the same issue.
@@Brett_M maybe some kind of lipo batt
Wow. Very impressive. At first I was trying hard to find the pneumatic cylinders, But then I saw the engine block pieces. Top notch.
Maybe this will inspire lego to modify their pieces if they see it.
I was also trying to find pneumatic cylinders but they were so expensive so I’m glad I found this design. I do believe I am one of the first to use this mechanism to make a four cylinder and two cylinder engine.
Sounds real good job
Because it is
Yup
This is a really really neat concept. I can only imagine the applications and scalability
Nice engine! when i saw you lift the engine I thought that was cool, because not too many engines you can hold while it runs, I have always been interested in pneumatics, this was really cool to see! well done!
Thanks:)
It's great, I love it, the sound is perfect.
Wow. Just wow. This is incredible. Good work man! I mean I could never come up with this stuff. I never even knew an engine like this could be built out of LEGO. You have just earned a new subscriber.
Thanks so much 👍😀
I'm your 600th subscriber! 🥳
Thanks 👍
Love the sound of that thing!
very good build easy and simple thanks mate
U should make videos of testing out all of these lego engines to see how powerful they are by attaching them to the differential of lego vehicles and driving them up steep hills and/or by putting heavy loads or by doing both that would make for a great video 🔥
That’s a great idea I might have to do that
@@Brett_M thx bro
perfect engine for 2CV model.
Very good tutorial 😮I may put something like that on lawnmower next spring
Thanks so much. If you do build it with my instructions please let me know if all the steps are clear and if i need to improve on anything in the future.
Get a big air tank and hook it up ontop of the lawnmower, air powered lawnmower 😳
Wow sounds sick
Been trying different things in this regard, myself. Do you grind out the channels on the sides of the pistons to seat the o-rings? Which size o-ring do you use? I've been trying to fit some and haven't found one I'm happy with. Down to 7x9x1mm so far, but I'm not yet happy with how they seat.
Good job. Nice to see this kind of thing! Not a fan of the full piston style. Want to see if some engine/transmission/clutch systems are possible and fit them in some MOC vehicles. Thanks for the video.
I use 4mm ID and 1mm thick O-Rings. And yes I do grind the grove on the piston a little deeper by putting the piston in a drill chuck and cut a tiny amount away with a small hack saw
@@Brett_M That is such a tiny o-ring size... I was not expecting that. Very interesting! I think I'll get some and try them soon. Thanks very much for your response -- I later found another video of yours with comment discussion to the same effect.
Have you tried the above-piston schrader valve trick to avoid the need for the pneumatic switch/timing arm? I've been tempted further to mod together a separate camshaft assembly involving those valves too and make genuine scale almost pushrod-V8 style.
@@StephenKuehn Yes, I have tried the over head valve but it didn’t work because I never put a O-ring on the piston. I might try it again in the future but I have a few video ideas I want to do first.
I love this sound
Very cool
THANK YOU
Two Stroke LEGO Boxer engine, great job
Thanks
nicely done. new sub.
Thanks so much!!
When you cant afford an electric motor but you got an air compressor
Haha lol 😂
Is there any way the extra branch of the T-piece could simply be used as the exhaust? I haven’t worked with Lego pneumatics and it might take an extra switch, but it could probably be timed so that it opens when the piston’s returning to the top of the cylinder - wouldn’t need the exhaust port drilled in that way.
Alternatively - though this may cause extra wear on the tubes - a cam could be used to pinch it when you want air pushing against the piston.
That might work but you need the the exhaust to be let out when the pistons at the bottom of the cylinder. Personally I would just drill a small hole where it needs to be than clutter up the engine with another one. You always can use the cylinders for a moc cause you will never see the holes anyway.
Doesnt the switch already have an exaust? When the middle and left ports are connected, the right has free air flow, but it wont go in any holes, just out the top where the handle is
On this engine both left and right are ports are used for each cylinder so you should have to add another switch if you wanted to have an exhaust.
a model Porsche 911 powered with a flat 6 engine would be so cool
That would be really cool
I rarely see people use actual lego engine pistons to make engines, most of the time they use pneumatic pistons that are modified for better airflow
Nice
tape or glue the tube on and see how much psi you can put it through
Can you try to make a 4 cylinder Version with instructions? It sounds so perfect!
Yeah, OK. That just is way too cool for words... 😎
Thank you very much:)
Out of curiosity, what's the song you used? I really like it, but I can't seem to find it.
I don’t know the songs name or artist. I think it’s just a generic sound that was on my editing app (IMovie)
maybe an arm with a string attached may determine torque
1:48 Ah yes engine go boom boom at high rpm
why did you add the connection below the crankshaft? I watched the video 3 times, and I still can't figure out why you did that
I did that because I had to block off one branch of the tee on the top of the cylinder off. Plus it holds oil. it doesn’t need to be there. Thanks for the 3 views:)
This is the first time I see someone using a modified cosmetic cylinders/pistons instead of the pneumatic ones for a pneumatic engine. Nicely done.
Is the T piece just to fit in the 2x2 "cylinder head" or does the other hose actually do something? It seems like it's plugged off.
Besides holding oil it has no use it probably doesn’t need to be there.
Sounds just like a real two-stroke. I would really like to make one but I don’t have any parts for the pneumatics.
Thank you very much.
I have 2 more questions:
1. What is te diameter of the exhaust hole?
2. Did you modify the switch or just lubricate it?
The exhaust hole is about 2mm and I modified and lube the switch. Use green geckos switch modification video if you do
Hey! After watching this video, I only have two questions: What does this engine idle at, and what does this engine max out at?
I wasn’t able to measure rpm’s but the lowest psi is 15 and the highest is 60.
wow
Je voudrais me procurer ce meme moteur comment l'obtenir
adding tiny sponges with oil into pistons and next to crank shaft could also work
That’s a really good idea!
What pieces are needed
Men, this is so cool. What do u use for sealing the pistons?
I use (nitrile 4mm Id and 1mm thick) O-rings
Oh wow, you're using actual piston heads instead of LEGO pneumatic cylinders! Seems a lot more compact but how does it compare in terms of RPM and torque? Could it move a vehicle?
I’m not sure how it would compare to a engine with pneumatic cylinders but if you would gear it down a bit the engine is super powerful and definitely would work great in a vehicle.
It would be cool to see the type of torque that you get with this motor.
Yes it would be.
Is so cool but where did you get the seals for the pistons?
I got some from Amazon.com and from my local hardware store. The O-rings I use are (nitrile 4mm ID and 1mm thick) good luck:)
Thanks
No problem:)
I haven't seen such youse of piston parts.
Решил так сделать с моим V8 в Dodge Charger + сделаю крутой выхлоп с помощью просверленных выпускных дырок
Is it compatible with like for example the dodge charger?
If you mean to put the engine in a Dodge Challenger I’m not sure I just made the engine I didn’t make it for anything specific.
I tried to my a chassie for it but its to weak but it works nicely alone but i used small rubber bands instead of the orings by overlaping them so i might have a bit of leak but over all well done
The 4 cylinder I made in my tank chassis is really powerful. I am almost done with the instructions for it. You should try that motor.
@@Brett_Myeah a built it today but the overlaped rubberbands make to much friction and very little seal do i need to buy those and also my modified switches dont seal that well maybe if i buy o rings and if i made the conector holes bigger by drilling them if you have advice please tell me im really enjoying building your stuff
need to buy the o-rings*
@@Gloomz69I would recommend the o-rings they don’t cost very much and you can make a lot of engines with them. Note, you will have to make the groves in the pistons a little bit deeper for the O-rings. My switches leak a lot also I’m not sure what the deal is with that. Also, I do recommend drilling the ports slightly bigger in the connectors just make sure there is enough material that they don’t break. Also, don’t forget to drill in an exhaust port.
@@Brett_M yeah thanks a lot bro
great job. I'd like to bulid your Moc.
please give me the access to your gd
Where can i get the o rings i cant find this parts
The O-rings are (nitrile 4mm I’d and 1mm thick) try looking them up on Amazon.com
Make something like this for actuall cars
What kind of tubing is that?
It is silicone tubing I’m not sure the dimensions
would like to see a parallel twin or an inline triple version
After I am finished with the 4 cylinders instructions I maybe will make I4 or I2.
You should make an I6
I only have one switch tho and their kinda expensive. I have plans to make a I4 after my flathead 4
If you add 2more cylinders you could totally make a Subaru boxer flat 4
I already made a flathead 4
@@Brett_M really
@@PR.Impreza it’s a short. I’m still waiting on some parts to finish it so I can make instructions
@@Brett_M oh nice
Karl Benz be like:
Двигатель в отсечку пошел
What is the cross connection for
Other than holding oil it has no use
WHERE YOU BUY O RINGS PLEEEEASE SAY, I NOT FIND AAAAAA
I bought some from Amazon.com just look up the size they are 4mm by 1 mm thick
@Brett M Thank you, 4mm of OD or ID?
How many PSI
horsepower?
add a propeller
Did you have to modify the switch?
Yes I did modify the switch but I didn’t modify it for this particular engine. It might run without it being modified.
@@Brett_M ok thanks
So I built the engine and I think I have a problem with the o rings would you maybe do a video of how to modify the pistons/o rings
@@nicktherailfan6040 I was thinking on doing a video sometime. What I did was take a piston and put it in a drill chuck and ground down the groove a tiny bit with a small saw. I have a link for the right size o-rings in the description of my 4cylinder lPE
I can't access the instructions, it says "Access needed"
If you request it I will give you access.
@@Brett_M but why do I need to request it? Am I going to share details? (you don't need to set the permission "access needed" because you got "free" "paid 1.99" etc.)
Also looks like your a beginner. Checkout my channel: czcams.com/users/steamYT if it doesn't work then channel name is: steamYT (icon colour is orange)
Bro I’ve had like 100plus people request the instructions and I accept every one.
@@Brett_M ok.
Can you please make a v8 version or a w16 version
I would like to but switches are almost $9.00 a piece and I don’t get paid for these videos.
How many horses it have?
I’m not sure
What parts do I need?
Just watch the tutorial. sorry I can’t help, I never made a parts list.
now mount it on a miata
is it possible to do without o rings
It doesn’t run without o-rings.
@@Brett_M is it possible to do with a rubber band glued to it?
like a rubber band the size of the cylinder to act as a “o ring”
@@theofficialfluffy I guess you could try. I think it would be easier and more efficient to just use the correct size o-ring.
im not in a handy family so I can’t get my hands on O rings
@@theofficialfluffy do you have an air compressor to power the engine? If you try your rubberband idea let me know how it works.
Just use zip tie for the tube 😃
Lol I have some zip ties on the tubes already I would rather have the line blow off the cylinder than the switch because it’s easier to put back on than the switch
@Jace Technic and RC Cars I subscribed to you!!
@@Brett_M thank you bro 👍🏾 i am already subscribed
What o rings did yo use
I use 4x1mm NITRILE O rings but you have to cut the groove in the piston a little deeper
@@Brett_M is 4 the od and 1 id?
I would think 4mm Id and 1mm thick. I’ll have to measure them but I don’t have any currently that’s why my 4 cylinder instructions aren’t up yet cause the back two pistons don’t have o rings😔
@@Brett_M Thank you bro 👍🏾👍🏾 i found a link i will order it later
Ok good luck:)
try create a car with this engine
I might not have enough pieces.
Вот это мотор вот это моторище
v8?
I don’t have the pieces for a V8 unfortunately and the switches are almost 9bucks a piece. Maybe I’ll make one in the future.
Hey, can I buy it?
I don’t sell it but you could buy parts from bricklink or Lego.com pick a brick
@@Brett_M do you use a normal Switch?
@@discodaddy149 yes it’s a normal switch, but I did modify it using Green Geckos switch modification video.
@@Brett_M okay thank you very much:) one Last question: how did you connect the compressor to your lego tube?
I got a regulator with a 1/8npt out put and connected a tip from a air nozzle spray gun and put the hose into it and super glued and pipe taped it. I wanna make a better connection soon.
Cant acces instructions 😢
Same here
Try again I gave you access. enjoy building:)
@@Brett_M 👍🙏
@@Brett_M Thank you 🙏🏾
😂😂😂
What’s so funny.
Ah yes another random toyota engine (You said its reliable. Best I can say its a toyota engine)
Lol I never intended for it to be a Toyota engine.
@@Brett_M Well you didnt. But toyota makes reliable engines
How much horsepower? lol
I’m to sure.
I’m to sure.
Dude...
You might be able to drive a mini car (NOT CARS LIKE THE NORMAL ONES, I MEAN MODELS OF CARS) with this...
Yes that would be cool