@@InTheShop Wassup, I have a 2005 Ford F-350, I have updated my dummy plugs, stand pipes and also the fitting on my HPOP. I've also had orings replaced on my nipple cup seals and sometimes (not every time) when I go somewhere and I shut the truck off and when I try to start the truck it just spins over but doesn't start. I think the problem that's causing this issue is leaking from the nipple cup seals, also I'm aware of nipple cup seals still leaking after replacing the orings. What do you think the issue could be?
@@mauricematthews5065 Hey, I know it’s been awhile. But, did you figure out what the problem was? I have updated plugs and stand pipes as well as a new HPOP with updated STC fitting and I have a leak somewhere. I have yet to do all the steps in this video for lack of money and the tools.
He's very thorough. Awesome tech that takes time to explain very clearly and accurately. Your comment is definitely accurate. Ron would be proud to see this young man taking time to help others just like he did. Rest easy Mr. Huxell.
Thanks a lot man. I just replaced my head gaskets and studded the truck, replaced the stand pipes but I still have a leak. I'll be air testing the truck tomorrow and hopefully can diagnose it and get it back on the road. I really enjoy how you do your videos. A good mix of information, showing how its done, and what problems to look out for.
I have a mysterious oil leak in my 2006 e350 6.0 and this video was very very helpful! Can’t afford to take it to a shop so this video gave me some much needed direction. Thanks dude!
Nathan, Good stuff! I purchased a 2004 Ford F350 Lariat from a man dying of cancer. He bought this lariat 350 6.0 new, and it sat for 14 years, knowing he was dying. I just bought it with 21,500 original miles. It's perfect. I changed the air filter; it was perfect, I changed the transmission fluid and filter, which Ended up being perfect; I changed the fuel filters, which were a little dirty, changed the oil, which was a little dirty, replaced all with OEM parts. Did install two new 1000 cranking amp interstate batteries. He changed the tires to new Michelin LTX E-rated tires too. It is so smooth; however, sometimes I've noticed that when I'm driving at a low speed, it will sound like a normal diesel, then flutter between the normal diesel sound, then get muffled/real quiet. It happened today and when It got quiet, I hit the gas and it didn't do anything.(no response/ bog/ like no detonation) I let off the gas and it puffed out some smoke as it went back to the diesel sound. I was thinking it was the vanes in the turbo, but it runs too smooth other times. I did replace the EGR valve and it was really dirty, didn't make a difference though as it got quiet again. Have you experienced this? The engine sounding like a normal diesel, then getting real quiet? It will flutter between these two sounds. When it gets quiet, it has no power. I'm wondering if it's not getting fuel to the injectors, or maybe a high-pressure oil switch. Thanks for any help. I was going to open up the turbo to make sure the vanes and unison ring weren't sticking, but I just think that's it. I will be bulletproofing this motor and didn't want to tear into the engine until I bulletproof it and do it all at once. I will be doing the blue spring upgrade next. Last question, Bulletproofing, I looked at bulletproofdiesels air to oil cooler and then I watched the video you did with the IPR bulletproof, which system do you like better? I kind of like the coolant to oil System better. Thanks again, keep up the great work.
@@garyfarrow3101 No, I thought it it was the EGR, but a friend of mine said that he thinks it is the variable ring in the turbo sticking. When the motor is hot, it never happens. Only when it is colder. It's almost like it sounds like a normal diesel, but then it get real quiet. when its cooler, it sometimes is non responsive when you press the gas. Im going to take out the turbo and make sure the unison ring isnt sticking. The truck sat for a very long time. Thanks for the reply, any thoughts?
Thank you! Trying hard to bring the best content I’m able to. There is a lot of great info on CZcams that unfortunately is hard to watch do to poor quality. I’m trying to do both.
Nathan, Much appreciation for your expertise and effort going into all your vids. It's refreshing to see someone that takes pride in your work ( on and off screen). Like most, I have a problem I'd like you to comment on. Mine is very specific and probably at the root of what plagues many 6.0 owners with long crank hot/cold situations. I am struggling with oil drainback from the filter housing. This is being caused by the anti-drainback valve, nothing else. I've changed the drainback valve, passed an air leak test with energized IPR, OE filter/cap etc. As you know, this valve operates on gravity alone to seal, but as many owners experience, I loss all oil in the filter housing after 16-24 hours. I've only seen a suggested remedy of replacing the oil filter adapter 3C3Z 6881CA. Inspecting the rubber washers on both the drainback and bypass valves shows little if any wear. There are no gouges in the sealing lips on the housing itself. My question is this, do you see any issues with adding an extremely light spring around the valve barrel and the valve housing to get better sealing pressure. Another option might be to lightly lap the lip surfaces for a better seal. Or has anyone came up with a better means to solve this? I see so many posts on this root cause (where ppl think it's just the non-OE cap/filter) but never are they fully explaining a solution. Would be great to hear your input. Thanks so much!
Thanks for getting back on this. It's an 05. Since my previous note, I have polished the anti-drain back port on the filter housing with a fine scotchbrite buff on a dremel tool. I also just got a new OEM adapter plate and both for the cast ports have a rougher finish than what I have in the vehicle. So, I've installed the new bypass valve/ anti drain back valve in the truck. I have also plugged the drain back valve port with a silicone plug, so this cannot leak. It is much improved, but it's still leaking down. I can't imagine it's the bypass valve with all that spring pressure. Looking for any ideas here. Thanks Nathan
Nathan, great video as usual. I have an early 03 6.0 and it’s great you provide information on the early 6.0 and the later 6.0. I’m a shade tree mechanic but all your video’s break down the process into layman’s terms. Lots of O rings w/diesel motor and I’ve incorporated the AR9100 into my oil changes. Have had great success w/the additive and 6.0 runs MUCH smoother w/the AR9100. Thanks for taking the time to do your videos, much appreciated. Keep’m coming. Fran
Great video! I had oil rail on and off 6 times and was suspecting oil leak at top injector oring so i put a dummy plug in place of stand pipe to isolate that bank. It worked like a charm no need to energize ipr
I have never written a comment before,this is my first. And no I’m not 8years old,far far from it. Thanks for the great 6.0 content. I own an 04 excursion and need all the knowledge I can get. You are the Canadian “dieseltech Ron .
thanks to in the shop, he nailed my issue over a month ago, and i tore into the engine anyhow cause ut has 200k miles and needed lots of maintenance to make it last another 200k, but he said, sounds like the hpop lost the little ball (oil pressure on dash goes to 0 after 10 minute warm up, truck gets harder and harder to start). HE NAILED IT. specific to 2003 2004 with the older round pump fyi. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT I.T.S.
BTW i never wanted to LEARN anything about this truck, its my moms, but her shop was going to start by pulling the base oil pressure sender, and i was like, what does that have to do with hard restart when hot ??? so, i was forced to bring it home, learn from the internet, and fix it. yay me
Great video! My excursion shut down one day, got down to the fitting on the HPOP and found a torn oring on the fitting. Put it back together with a new fitting and oring and still no start. Just did the air test and large amount of air coming from both sides, pulled one valve cover so far and found the oil rail oring leaking. Wish I watched this video before making the first repair! Good stuff
I liked your video so much that out of all the people posting 6.0 oln youtube, i chose you to ask my question, lucky you :) 2004 f350 suddenly developed a problem after a 400 mile trip delivering a load of hay. check gauges light is on at idle and oil pressure shows no oil pressure, increase throttle to 800-900 rpm and light goes out and oil pressure returns. truck drives fine, here is more detail on what i have observed. cold start in the morning and there is no low oil problem, until engine runs 10 minutes, then the pressure gauge drops and check gauge lite comes on, engine idles at 650 at this point, and increasing rpm to 750 makes lite go out and pressure come up, after you drive a little and it gets hotter, you have to increase rpm a little higher to make lite go out, about 850 rpm. i also noticed that when warmed up, if you turn the truck off, if you try to restart with no pressure on the accelerator, you have to do it within 4 minutes, or else you have to goose the throttle. in the morning starting out cold, you have to goose the throttle to get it started up. if you wait longer than 4 minutes to restart when hot, then it will fire up with no pressure on accelerator then cut right off again, the next restart attempt requires you to use the throttle. so i am assuming it has a small oil leak in the high pressure system, but only when the oil is hot, which means any testing i try to do will have to be with a hot engine ? since its a 2004 that is stock, its my moms truck, is there anywhere specific i should start looking that may be 2004 specific ? based on my observations that is only leaks when warmed up, runs fine, will restart at idle for up to 4 minutes after shutdown when warm ? or could it be possibly anywhere everywhere and a full diagnostic attack is needed ? THANKS
The 2004 high pressure oil pumps were very common to have a small steal ball bearing fall out of them that was pressed into place to block off a manufacturing passageway. The way you are describing your problem that seems like it may be what you have going on.
@@InTheShop thank you so much for your reply, The trucks in the shop now and i dont feel good about it, they are going for the oil sensor if that tells you why i am concerned. i only just now saw your reply, about 4 hours after i rewatched one of your videos and picked up on the ball bearing. here is my question, this is a 2004 1/2 truck made in mar 2004, would this truck still have had that ball bearing ? If it would not have had that ball, the pump was replaced a few years ago, could they have taken an early 2004 pump and put it in my late 2004 and then this caused the problem, or will a early 2004 2003 pump not fit in a late 2004 Are there other failures that can cause the low/no oil pressure at idle after warmup and hard starting, like an ipr that is stuck open ? monday morning i am going to tell them to open the valley and look at the pump, to see if it is the early pump or if it has the snap in place connector. THANKS
trac nunya they should be able to tell if it’s the old style pump or new style pump without taking anything apart. The old style pump has a completely cast iron cover and the pump is completely covered. The new style pump has an aluminum cover and part of the pump protrudes out of the center of the cover.
Great video, thanks for the detailed info. My '05 6.0 was running great on a recent trip pulling my camper then I stopped for fuel in Tennessee and it wouldn't start. Scan tool showed only 167lbs of hp. Only had a few tools with me so hooked up with a local shop that immediately replaced the hpop. :( The truck starts now when cold but not when warm. The shop claims the new hpop finished the job of blowing standpipe seals. I had to get home so I just went with this info and made it back to CO. $3000 later and I still have to work on my own truck! Thanks for giving me enough info to get moving on this project!
@@daniellucateroofficial4041 The stand pipes were fine but 2 injectors were leaking along with other minor leaks. apparently after replacing the hp oil pump a few other "compromised" parts started failing. Nothing another $2000 couldn't fix!. As a friend of mine with a shop says, " 6 liter , $6000) Truck runs fine now but I'll never fully trust it!
Hey man, I noticed the accent, I'm from the south shore. Im a Plymouth firefighter, and a former diesel mechanic for Cummins Northeast in Dedham. Awesome vid! Thanks it helped me a lot.
You are really good. I HATE DIESEL…..why cause i dont know it. This video intrigued me so now i want to know more about diesel stuff 😂. You explained this very good so i subcribed cause now im hooked. Thank you very much.
Outstanding! Well spoken, to the point at a good pace. Should help me keep Big Blue's 6.0L on the road for another 100k or 2. Thank you! OBTW, the white 'washer' on the standpipes are called o-ring backups.
My 6.0 is failing to start intermittenly, this video has brought some issues to my attention. I can speak with knowledge to my diesel mechanic and make a couple of suggestions, hopefully without offending him. I have had this 04 6.0 E-450 in his shop on 3 separate occasions, lots of money, and lots of new parts. But most aggrevating this 6.0 (Which has been Bullitproofed about 37K miles ago), still gets me in a no start situation at least 5-6 times per week. Now I can ask what his diagnosis is and I will know how to respond to his answers. Thank You.
Nice video. FYI - The late 04's did not have the failure prone STC fitting that is corrected w/ the one-piece fitting w/ jam nut. That was in the 05's and up.
Thanks Mark! As far as the pump goes the new style was used in 2004 after a certain production date. 2003-early2004 had the round aluminum pump with the cast iron cover. Late build 2004 mostly came with the cast iron pump with the aluminum cover and had the STC
You are right, International did change the HPOP to the cast iron one in late 04. It had higher capacity due to the wavy oil rail "upgrade", but the STC wasn't introduced at that time. It came w/ the 05. It makes 04 a mix of configurations. Anyway, not meaning to argue, just to share what comes directly from International.
I didn’t take it as arguing at all. I know a lot but I also still always have a lot to learn and talking with other knowledgeable people is the best way to expand that knowledge. The 2004 is a giant mixed bag of afterthoughts and last minute changes. In my opinion the worst year.
thanks so much "In the Shop" been dealing with a very small leak on the high oil side, been only getting 460 psi while cranking but all this info makes me feel like ill find the problem tomorrow... thanks so much for some of the best videos on youtube, you gained a new subscriber
Hay Nathan, Thanks for a GREAT video, I think I have high pressure oil leak in my 2006 6.0. I'll be using your video for reference, again thanks as I know how much time it takes to create and edit these type of videos. Just subbed to your channel.
this is Will Witt i have done everything to this truck but still cant get it right . history truck ran great over 90,000 on rebuild bullet proof motor. broke a injector tip maybe water, sent it off to industrial injector they checked it out replaced nozzle they said it was fine. I had another injector where the spool was sticking so I on other side took it apart used 600 sandpaper and got it to move freely. I changed my oil added marvel oil . put it all back together and it started right up . went for a test drive seemed fine came home turned it off no start. cooled off started right up. as soon as it heats up no start.. i have replaced everything all new ford tube and dummy plugs, new no leak cups nipples, got seals from industrial for injectors replaced them changed oil checked oil fill in filter when cracking. but oil pressure gauge shows oil then doesn't took off icp wire cen get it to start hpop pressure 2800 icp about 30 i'm at a total loss HELP.
@@InTheShop thanks for replying, I have done everything yes hot before I did cups and seals saw oil coming out under rail by injectors. My scan tool only showed one code low Icp, i put on a new ICP connector. took it all down to the HPOP and redid all seals and cleaned IPR even though it was cleaned tested to make sure it moved. I just don't get it. I completely rebuild this from scratch put 90,000.00 miles on it had that injector now just can't figure it out.
Not sure why only 114 subs. Maybe because I only have a few videos at this point. Working on that now. I think the high view count is because its a popular subject to search for.
In The Shop I’m already up to 21 subs in a week, but I have about 60 view count on the big vids. I need to say like/subscribe more. You don’t pay for advertising?
I think this is the problem with my truck oil is leaking like a sive from the back of the motor when it's on the ground (level). I did an egr delete a few months back, and then I started having this problem out of the blue. I thought the oil was coming from the oil cooler but I think it's coming from the back right or left valve cover. I'm going to do this weekend and see what happens. Thanks again for this video. I'd rather take advice from a Yankee then some hellbelly who says he knows it all (you know who I'm talking about) lol
Hi Greg, it seems like you have an external oil leak not a high pressure oil leak. I just recently made a video about finding external oil leaks. I hope it helps.
Wow. Thank you very much for this video. I have a problem with my 2006 International Schoolbus with a VT365 Diesel Engine. It cranks when it is cold and it does not when it is warm. So these things you were showing are the things i am going to try first. I paid a workshop about 4000 Dollar and they did not find the issue. I just had to learn the hard way that sometimes it is better to do it by your own. But that would not be possible if you were not making those perfect videos. So thank you very much and i will keep you updatet if your video solved the problem!
@@InTheShop Hi. So I tried to fix everything you mentioned in this video and the last thing I had to do was to change the oil pan (upper and lower) gasket because I think it is leaking. Then I have seen that one of the inboard main bearing cap bolts is just broken. So I have to change this. But also I found some crazy metal stuff in the oil pick up tube. I made some pictures and I would like to ask you if you have an idea what it could be. Could you check my pictures via what's app or however you we ant it. Would be really nice if you could help me. I am a little concerned now 🙄. Happy to hear from you. Dennis
Awesome man! I replaced my right 4 injectors and now I get a double start. Almost normal followed by the ferocious 6.0 start that comes after a repair. Happens cold start every time. I'm thinking injector o-ring or slight high pressure oil leak on the right bank. Thanks for the tips. I'm going back in tomorrow. Bubble test then this test. Kinda.. 03
I have seen your entire video, I like the way you explained everything, I have a 6.0 with something similar, nothing more than the oil pressure needle definitely does not go up, do you think it could be the high pressure pump although I saw that you said it is It is rare that it gets damaged... the oil does reach the filter cup
I was wondering if you knew anything about the stand pipe on the passenger side, is there a check valve in it,and whats it there for,,, iknow the oil comes up through it,does the check valve stop it from draining back into the oil pan,
Have an 05 F350. When it's cold it starts but dies immediately when it warms up. Replaced ice and ipr, injectors too. Replaced dummy plugs and the tube. What's another common problem? Thanks for your time and the video.
Grate video. Am working in a 05 f-250 with a really long crank to start . Pressure tested the system at the ipr and found a injector leaking at the top o ring replaced it and retested again now it holds 120 psi for a good hour or so but still cranks for about twenty seconds before it builds icp pressure.Hpop? Ipr cleaned and reseal and dummy plugs and stands pipes replaced. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Car Doc have you put any miles on it since the repair? It can take a few hard runs to get the air pockets out of the high pressure oil rails. I usually like to do a highway run with a couple hard accelerations.
Hey thanks for the quick response. No I haven’t put any miles in it . I pulled the hpop cover off just to inspect the STC fitting in install the update it one . At this point am just debating in installing a new pump or not . I would hate to put it back together just to find out i have a weak pump i know it’s not really common in 05 and newer but can be still possible since I can find any leaks?
Make sure You have the write oil filter ,otherwise the check valve Will bleed the oil back to oil pan and causing a long start because it has to reefill the oil filter reservor. I know it happend to me.
Well, I already changed a new pump and injectors are re-invoiced and rails I also bought and the high-pressure tubes and it turns me on very well only that when it already grabs the temperature I turn it off and it doesn't turn on anymore I just noticed that when there the air pressure test only pulls me by an injector where the nipple enters you can be heard there
It’s possible one of the top injector o-rings where the nipple enters is bad. It’s also possible that the spool valve on the injector is worn causing this.
Hey Ron, Usually you will hear the air coming from the back of the engine instead of under the valve cover area. If you do its time to pull the pump cover and inspect. Once the pump cover is off you can reinstall the IPR and retest the system. I started setting up my Patreon but never pursued it. Maybe now I will. Thank you!
About 3000 miles ago, I replaced the HPOP, and also, the dummy plugs and stand pipes, and oil rail nipples and seals, Now i have a crank no start, cold or hot, it did fire once to get it hot and i took it for a drive test only to have a no start when i got home, ran great on the road, i notice the low side seams to take a bit to build up but the oil gauge in the truck rises like it should, ok with all the history, thanks for reading, im not sure where i should start first, remembering back when i put the HPOP cover back on, im wondering if i may have pinched the seal on the tube from the HOPO to the ICP senor is there a way to air check that part ? thanks your the best
Hey bro great video. I have 05 and just had bunch of things go wrong at once, no chatter, no fuel pump noise, no base line oil pressure. So yah I'm going crazy lol.. can you help
@@InTheShop tomorrow morning a friend is coming by with snap on computer/ford diesel software,,, something like that. So I will keep you in the loop just in case I don't understand him. After watching you work I trust your opinion...
Hey I've got a 6.0 in that driver said motor just shut off while he was going down the road. I found that the oil filter cap backed off and my rights are the motor shut down when he lost base pressure. Now it won't start back up again. Ipr at 85 when cranking, icp has 0.18 key on and 0.3v cranking, icp reads 70 psi at best. His truck also takes over 30 seconds of straight cranking to build base pressure. Where would you go from here?
Great video I have a question. Or better yet I'll give you this scenario. Driving down a freeway low fuel comes on . Go to the gas station put diesel in . Filled it out start up no problem driving down the road Approximately 4 miles and ban it just Shut off. I've change the two filters check for water didn't find any. I put a brand new ficom. Fuel engine control module. Put in two new batteries . Put some diesels start in the Carburetor and it started for a second . Someone said if I remove the ICP And cranked it over oil should shoot across the street. I did that and I have no oil coming out whatsoever. Like I said I was driving and a just shut off and he ideas thank you In advance
Did you figure it out? I just bought truck with a similar scenario. PO said after filling up and driving home it started running rough and eventually died. And had to tow the csr home. It has the warm non start and once it cooled down then it would start and but it would still not have power to drive
I did the air test on my 2003 6.0 by using a IPR adapter only took the oil fill cap off then pressurized system with air for 10min I then used a stethoscope that's battery powered style its very sensitive for noise listening anyhow all air noise is coming from the middle of the plenum so its sounds like a smoking water pipe bong lol so no noise from the valve covers all is in middle top of engine my truck was running fine still no hard or no starts but I had a major oil leak that I thought was the ICP or IPR but all was dry it did look like it was leaking out near the driver side exhaust manifold in back corner as I seen bubbles that looked like were coming out where heads meet block anyways i had the 03 pump and oil cooler replaced a few years ago the oil pump was OEM Ford and oil cooler was aftermarket I was hoping after explaining all this you may have a thought to witch is likley my issue meaning if I hear this gurgle noise in middle is it most likely oil cooler I also should mention I have a bulletproof EGR cooler and part was also installed same time along with previous mentions and also bulllit proofs water pump was also done all by a ford mechanic who went into biz for himself after 25yrs working for Ford so I'm just not sure what's really the issue till I tear into engine but because my truck had no issue staring and running at all but leaking oil bigtime my IPR when I pulled screen is perfect and it works fine when 12 volt tested one last thing to mention is the oil filter housing when I pulled the cap off the oil is not holding and is empty so that and I don't see any milk mix in my coolant at all and I switched over to the red coolant million mile stuff after system was flushed out reverse style and block plugs pulled as well and my intuition is that's where this may have been cause as I did that not to long ago with use of the guys aftermarket adapter for back flushing oil cooler I think maybe I used to much air pressure and blew seals in oil cooler or just blew cooler itself possibly but no signs of mix of oil in coolant so I know that's alot of variable for possible causes just don't think oil pump is it I hope not at least and if its such a bad leak wonder why my engine runs fine and if its head gaskets would it bubble inside middle of upper intake Well I love your videos hope you can give me your two cents on my issue I have brotha thx
What I did was install the shop air tool into where the injector pressure regulator sits and cranked it to see how much oil was pumping out and it didn't seem too high of a flow any ideas need help been sitting in my driveway for about a month and I can't get it to start
Help!!! This my first diesel 2007 F350 6.0L 79,000mi I get a message on instrument panel “low pressure oil. Oil gauge goes down only on idle. If I rev up engine and oil needle gauge goes to normal. Can you help me with steps to follow. Thanks so much. God bless.
Most common cause of this is the oil pressure sensor(switch). It is the single wire plug located between the oil filter housing and the turbo. When they fail they give this symptom.
Good morning, I like your videos. I have a question. If you can answer it. I would really appreciate it. I have a 6.0 engine. I do the pressure test and air comes out of the injector where the nipple enters. That's why when it heats up the engine and I want to turn it on, it no longer turns on.
I'm looking for a leak atm, I put air thru were the IPR connects and then I hear Air coming from both sides of the valve covers, I just replaced the passenger side dummy plugs and standpipes and air tested it again and there was no chance on airflow from what I could hear.
I have an 05 6.0 and this past weekend, after driving my truck on the highway for about an hour, I stopped at a rest stop and turned the truck off. When I got ready to leave the truck would crank and crank but not start. I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it fired right up. I thought it might be the ficm, but what are the chances it could be this issue you just fixed? Thanks for any help. BTW, great great video. Very informative Doug
Good video. I bought an air fitting that goes in place of the IPR. It works great. What year engine is that? The throttle body on the otherwise 04 up intake with the EBP on the thermostat is really throwing me off.
This was a late 2004 motor. They were a half breed and used the 2003-2004 style pump but used the 05+ style rails. They also had the 05+ style intake but had a throttle body. Funny part is the throttle body is blank and had no blade in it. They were a mess lol
So I have an 07, f350 123,000 miles. I had a reputable diesel mechanic check mine for a high pressure oil leak, after it sat, most of the time overnight or an extended period of time I would have a long crank before it would start, around 5 to 6 seconds, I do have a monitor so I can see the pressure eventually building to 500. He did find one dummy plug with a pinched o ring fixed that, the standpipes were updated ones, but after a couple weeks of checkn recheckn he could not find a leak anywhere that would be causing this issue, so I’m stumped as to what to look at next, any ideas?
What’s up brother, I bought a 2003 old government f350 6.0 The oil pressure gauge drops and the check gauge light comes on while idling. It had 130k miles. You Mentioned a little ball that falls out of the pump? Could it be the oil pressure sensor? It runs and starts great. I haven’t checked the pressure- it is my first rodeo! I need some direction. If I drive it like this can it damage the motor? Thanks
Hey John, the oil pressure sensors are also common and an easy/cheap thing to change to verify. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ball fell out of your pump though. You won’t cause any damage by driving it but if the ball fell out it is possible that it leaves you stranded. I would put a sensor in it and recheck. If it still happens pull the pump.
Thanks for responding. You’re not going to believe it but I changed all of the aftermarket filters to Motor craft and it fixed the problem!!! It still has the egr cooler- if I leave it in how can I keep the system clean?
I’m chasing a high pressure oil leak I’ve rebuilt from ground up 06 6.0. Can the plugs on the bottom leak. I’ve replaced the nipple cup orings and injector top seals also the icp sensor voltage on the money and the ipr moves with snap on scanner I’m stumped
looking at you putting air to the oil rail makes me wonder could one precharge the oil rail after some sort of service involving the emptying of that rail?
@@InTheShop And people say I'm dumb, look at that. PS Just found you and subscribed. Not only do you have great content concerning my truck, but your production work is great.
Hallo. Im having problems with 2003 f250 6.0 2wd dying, then no start after 5 or 10 minutes. I removed standpipes and there both kind of bended. Could this be all my problem? Cuz truck was doing great before, only 145,890 miles
I prefer to remove the IPR and install the test fixture, remove oil fill plug and disconn C/C breather. Inject test air and monitor which side has the vapors/sound emitting.
That’s a great way to test. I prefer to do it through the ICP sensor port because it also tests the function of the IPR simultaneously. Either way will get you where you need to be. Thank you for the comment!
Bud thanks for your time and doing this video. Today while hammering down on her getting on the interstate I thought I ran over a wet spot in the road but then noticed a fuel smell real bad. When I got home I noticed the Driver side was slick and under the truck from the drivers side motor bay to the frame rail where the fuel pump and filter is. Was wet but it was more oily. It’s a 05 6.0. Do you have a direction I should look. Thanks
Hey man, great video!! I'm helping my buddy fix his 2006 6.0 and we did the shop air test and found leaks on both sides. It has the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, we replaced all 8 of the oil rail cup o-rings, and all 8 injector o-rings (the ones that the nipple cups slide into). My question is, do these engines take oil/pressure to seal everything back up? Because we still have air leaking from under the oil rails but there's nothing else to replace that I know of. Thanks in advance my friend!!
Thank you! They don’t seal when dry. Put some oil in the rail through the ICP port and the plug where the ICP would be on the other rail and check again. If they are completely dry they can leak.
@@InTheShop Well, we put it back together yesterday and it fired up and ran great. It even started back up after we warmed it up. So I guess it does take a little oil to seal those up. Thanks for the reply my friend! I've owned an 04 since 2010 and I've never had a High Pressure Oil Leak believe it or not. I've put one HPOP on it but that's it.
As a mechanic of over 30 years of gas and diesel.... Great job! very thorough, in depth explanations, and professional work! Nice!
Thank you! I try hard to make videos that can help everyone.
@@InTheShop Wassup, I have a 2005 Ford F-350, I have updated my dummy plugs, stand pipes and also the fitting on my HPOP.
I've also had orings replaced on my nipple cup seals and sometimes (not every time) when I go somewhere and I shut the truck off and when I try to start the truck it just spins over but doesn't start. I think the problem that's causing this issue is leaking from the nipple cup seals, also I'm aware of nipple cup seals still leaking after replacing the orings. What do you think the issue could be?
Maurice, have you tried doing the air test? Sometimes you have to pull the valve covers and just listen very closely.
@@InTheShop No, I haven't done the air test yet. I have to purchase the setup to perform the test.
@@mauricematthews5065 Hey, I know it’s been awhile. But, did you figure out what the problem was?
I have updated plugs and stand pipes as well as a new HPOP with updated STC fitting and I have a leak somewhere.
I have yet to do all the steps in this video for lack of money and the tools.
This guy is the closest to Diesel Tech Ron...
Thank you!
Rt.on I miss him dearly he was the man .RIP Ron but I'm grateful we got this young fella that cares to help
Agree 100%
He's very thorough. Awesome tech that takes time to explain very clearly and accurately.
Your comment is definitely accurate. Ron would be proud to see this young man taking time to help others just like he did.
Rest easy Mr. Huxell.
Im in reno nv. Im working on a 6.0. Power stroke. I do not know much about these engines. But your videos just become perfect. To my job. Thanks
Thanks a lot man. I just replaced my head gaskets and studded the truck, replaced the stand pipes but I still have a leak. I'll be air testing the truck tomorrow and hopefully can diagnose it and get it back on the road. I really enjoy how you do your videos. A good mix of information, showing how its done, and what problems to look out for.
I have a mysterious oil leak in my 2006 e350 6.0 and this video was very very helpful! Can’t afford to take it to a shop so this video gave me some much needed direction. Thanks dude!
Nathan, Good stuff! I purchased a 2004 Ford F350 Lariat from a man dying of cancer. He bought this lariat 350 6.0 new, and it sat for 14 years, knowing he was dying. I just bought it with 21,500 original miles. It's perfect. I changed the air filter; it was perfect, I changed the transmission fluid and filter, which Ended up being perfect; I changed the fuel filters, which were a little dirty, changed the oil, which was a little dirty, replaced all with OEM parts. Did install two new 1000 cranking amp interstate batteries. He changed the tires to new Michelin LTX E-rated tires too. It is so smooth; however, sometimes I've noticed that when I'm driving at a low speed, it will sound like a normal diesel, then flutter between the normal diesel sound, then get muffled/real quiet. It happened today and when It got quiet, I hit the gas and it didn't do anything.(no response/ bog/ like no detonation) I let off the gas and it puffed out some smoke as it went back to the diesel sound. I was thinking it was the vanes in the turbo, but it runs too smooth other times. I did replace the EGR valve and it was really dirty, didn't make a difference though as it got quiet again. Have you experienced this? The engine sounding like a normal diesel, then getting real quiet? It will flutter between these two sounds. When it gets quiet, it has no power. I'm wondering if it's not getting fuel to the injectors, or maybe a high-pressure oil switch. Thanks for any help. I was going to open up the turbo to make sure the vanes and unison ring weren't sticking, but I just think that's it. I will be bulletproofing this motor and didn't want to tear into the engine until I bulletproof it and do it all at once. I will be doing the blue spring upgrade next.
Last question, Bulletproofing, I looked at bulletproofdiesels air to oil cooler and then I watched the video you did with the IPR bulletproof, which system do you like better? I kind of like the coolant to oil System better. Thanks again, keep up the great work.
Did you figure this out
@@garyfarrow3101 No, I thought it it was the EGR, but a friend of mine said that he thinks it is the variable ring in the turbo sticking. When the motor is hot, it never happens. Only when it is colder. It's almost like it sounds like a normal diesel, but then it get real quiet. when its cooler, it sometimes is non responsive when you press the gas. Im going to take out the turbo and make sure the unison ring isnt sticking. The truck sat for a very long time. Thanks for the reply, any thoughts?
Great work on this video!
I like the tight shots, explanations, visuals on tools and parts.
Thank you! Trying hard to bring the best content I’m able to. There is a lot of great info on CZcams that unfortunately is hard to watch do to poor quality. I’m trying to do both.
Hey I was a Ford diesel tech for years and worked on tons of these. Awesome well explained video!!
Nathan, Much appreciation for your expertise and effort going into all your vids. It's refreshing to see someone that takes pride in your work ( on and off screen). Like most, I have a problem I'd like you to comment on. Mine is very specific and probably at the root of what plagues many 6.0 owners with long crank hot/cold situations. I am struggling with oil drainback from the filter housing. This is being caused by the anti-drainback valve, nothing else. I've changed the drainback valve, passed an air leak test with energized IPR, OE filter/cap etc. As you know, this valve operates on gravity alone to seal, but as many owners experience, I loss all oil in the filter housing after 16-24 hours. I've only seen a suggested remedy of replacing the oil filter adapter 3C3Z 6881CA. Inspecting the rubber washers on both the drainback and bypass valves shows little if any wear. There are no gouges in the sealing lips on the housing itself. My question is this, do you see any issues with adding an extremely light spring around the valve barrel and the valve housing to get better sealing pressure. Another option might be to lightly lap the lip surfaces for a better seal. Or has anyone came up with a better means to solve this? I see so many posts on this root cause (where ppl think it's just the non-OE cap/filter) but never are they fully explaining a solution. Would be great to hear your input. Thanks so much!
What year is the truck?
Thanks for getting back on this. It's an 05. Since my previous note, I have polished the anti-drain back port on the filter housing with a fine scotchbrite buff on a dremel tool. I also just got a new OEM adapter plate and both for the cast ports have a rougher finish than what I have in the vehicle. So, I've installed the new bypass valve/ anti drain back valve in the truck. I have also plugged the drain back valve port with a silicone plug, so this cannot leak. It is much improved, but it's still leaking down. I can't imagine it's the bypass valve with all that spring pressure. Looking for any ideas here. Thanks Nathan
Nathan, great video as usual. I have an early 03 6.0 and it’s great you provide information on the early 6.0 and the later 6.0. I’m a shade tree mechanic but all your video’s break down the process into layman’s terms. Lots of O rings w/diesel motor and I’ve incorporated the AR9100 into my oil changes. Have had great success w/the additive and 6.0 runs MUCH smoother w/the AR9100. Thanks for taking the time to do your videos, much appreciated. Keep’m coming. Fran
Great video! I had oil rail on and off 6 times and was suspecting oil leak at top injector oring so i put a dummy plug in place of stand pipe to isolate that bank. It worked like a charm no need to energize ipr
Also a great trick if you want to narrow it down to one bank! Thank you for watching!
I have never written a comment before,this is my first. And no I’m not 8years old,far far from it. Thanks for the great 6.0 content. I own an 04 excursion and need all the knowledge I can get. You are the Canadian “dieseltech Ron .
Thanks Greg! I really appreciate that. I’m from Massachusetts though. Diesel tech Ron was great RIP
well job i have been in the industy for years now and your video is one of the best i have seen here ever
Thank you!
thanks to in the shop, he nailed my issue over a month ago, and i tore into the engine anyhow cause ut has 200k miles and needed lots of maintenance to make it last another 200k, but he said, sounds like the hpop lost the little ball (oil pressure on dash goes to 0 after 10 minute warm up, truck gets harder and harder to start). HE NAILED IT. specific to 2003 2004 with the older round pump fyi. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT I.T.S.
BTW i never wanted to LEARN anything about this truck, its my moms, but her shop was going to start by pulling the base oil pressure sender, and i was like, what does that have to do with hard restart when hot ??? so, i was forced to bring it home, learn from the internet, and fix it. yay me
This is awesome to hear! I'm glad it fixed your problem!
Dude awesome job on the video. The quality is amazing.
Great video! My excursion shut down one day, got down to the fitting on the HPOP and found a torn oring on the fitting. Put it back together with a new fitting and oring and still no start. Just did the air test and large amount of air coming from both sides, pulled one valve cover so far and found the oil rail oring leaking. Wish I watched this video before making the first repair! Good stuff
Awesome!
you are amazing...
saved me from buying another engine.
Great to hear! Thanks Bill
I liked your video so much that out of all the people posting 6.0 oln youtube, i chose you to ask my question, lucky you :)
2004 f350 suddenly developed a problem after a 400 mile trip delivering a load of hay.
check gauges light is on at idle and oil pressure shows no oil pressure, increase throttle to 800-900 rpm and light goes out and oil pressure returns.
truck drives fine, here is more detail on what i have observed.
cold start in the morning and there is no low oil problem, until engine runs 10 minutes, then the pressure gauge drops and check gauge lite comes on, engine idles at 650 at this point, and increasing rpm to 750 makes lite go out and pressure come up, after you drive a little and it gets hotter, you have to increase rpm a little higher to make lite go out, about 850 rpm.
i also noticed that when warmed up, if you turn the truck off, if you try to restart with no pressure on the accelerator, you have to do it within 4 minutes, or else you have to goose the throttle.
in the morning starting out cold, you have to goose the throttle to get it started up.
if you wait longer than 4 minutes to restart when hot, then it will fire up with no pressure on accelerator then cut right off again, the next restart attempt requires you to use the throttle.
so i am assuming it has a small oil leak in the high pressure system, but only when the oil is hot, which means any testing i try to do will have to be with a hot engine ?
since its a 2004 that is stock, its my moms truck, is there anywhere specific i should start looking that may be 2004 specific ? based on my observations that is only leaks when warmed up, runs fine, will restart at idle for up to 4 minutes after shutdown when warm ?
or could it be possibly anywhere everywhere and a full diagnostic attack is needed ?
THANKS
The 2004 high pressure oil pumps were very common to have a small steal ball bearing fall out of them that was pressed into place to block off a manufacturing passageway. The way you are describing your problem that seems like it may be what you have going on.
Send me an email at nathan@intheshopmedia.com and I can send you a picture of what I mean.
@@InTheShop thank you so much for your reply,
The trucks in the shop now and i dont feel good about it, they are going for the oil sensor if that tells you why i am concerned.
i only just now saw your reply, about 4 hours after i rewatched one of your videos and picked up on the ball bearing. here is my question, this is a 2004 1/2 truck made in mar 2004, would this truck still have had that ball bearing ?
If it would not have had that ball, the pump was replaced a few years ago, could they have taken an early 2004 pump and put it in my late 2004 and then this caused the problem, or will a early 2004 2003 pump not fit in a late 2004
Are there other failures that can cause the low/no oil pressure at idle after warmup and hard starting, like an ipr that is stuck open ?
monday morning i am going to tell them to open the valley and look at the pump, to see if it is the early pump or if it has the snap in place connector.
THANKS
trac nunya they should be able to tell if it’s the old style pump or new style pump without taking anything apart. The old style pump has a completely cast iron cover and the pump is completely covered. The new style pump has an aluminum cover and part of the pump protrudes out of the center of the cover.
@@InTheShop thanks, ill let you know what we find out
Great video, thanks for the detailed info. My '05 6.0 was running great on a recent trip pulling my camper then I stopped for fuel in Tennessee and it wouldn't start. Scan tool showed only 167lbs of hp. Only had a few tools with me so hooked up with a local shop that immediately replaced the hpop. :( The truck starts now when cold but not when warm. The shop claims the new hpop finished the job of blowing standpipe seals. I had to get home so I just went with this info and made it back to CO. $3000 later and I still have to work on my own truck! Thanks for giving me enough info to get moving on this project!
Was it the ipr?
@@daniellucateroofficial4041 The stand pipes were fine but 2 injectors were leaking along with other minor leaks. apparently after replacing the hp oil pump a few other "compromised" parts started failing. Nothing another $2000 couldn't fix!. As a friend of mine with a shop says, " 6 liter , $6000) Truck runs fine now but I'll never fully trust it!
Hey man, I noticed the accent, I'm from the south shore. Im a Plymouth firefighter, and a former diesel mechanic for Cummins Northeast in Dedham. Awesome vid! Thanks it helped me a lot.
Thanks man! Yeah I’m from southern mass. Near Fallriver. Glad the video helped! Thank you for watching.
Great video. Very professional. Clean, tidy work space. Good job.
Thats all i did on my 6.0 eveything works good now thanks bud
You are really good. I HATE DIESEL…..why cause i dont know it. This video intrigued me so now i want to know more about diesel stuff 😂. You explained this very good so i subcribed cause now im hooked. Thank you very much.
Thanks Juan! Glad I inspired you!
Good job man, I am really proud of you for starting this channel !!!
Thank you Nathan! And thank you for motivating me to do this.
Your the man thanks for your skills they are very appreciate Wayne from Bay City Michigan
Dude you explained everything clear and simple.
Outstanding! Well spoken, to the point at a good pace. Should help me keep Big Blue's 6.0L on the road for another 100k or 2. Thank you!
OBTW, the white 'washer' on the standpipes are called o-ring backups.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
All I can said man is thank you save me time and money much appreciated.
Awesome! I love hearing this.
My 6.0 is failing to start intermittenly, this video has brought some issues to my attention. I can speak with knowledge to my diesel mechanic and make a couple of suggestions, hopefully without offending him. I have had this 04 6.0 E-450 in his shop on 3 separate occasions, lots of money, and lots of new parts. But most aggrevating this 6.0 (Which has been Bullitproofed about 37K miles ago), still gets me in a no start situation at least 5-6 times per week. Now I can ask what his diagnosis is and I will know how to respond to his answers. Thank You.
Thanks for watching James! Glad I could help.
I'm just getting to watch this now and I love it. Very knowledgeable.
Thank you!
Nice video. FYI - The late 04's did not have the failure prone STC fitting that is corrected w/ the one-piece fitting w/ jam nut. That was in the 05's and up.
Thanks Mark! As far as the pump goes the new style was used in 2004 after a certain production date. 2003-early2004 had the round aluminum pump with the cast iron cover. Late build 2004 mostly came with the cast iron pump with the aluminum cover and had the STC
You are right, International did change the HPOP to the cast iron one in late 04. It had higher capacity due to the wavy oil rail "upgrade", but the STC wasn't introduced at that time. It came w/ the 05. It makes 04 a mix of configurations. Anyway, not meaning to argue, just to share what comes directly from International.
I didn’t take it as arguing at all. I know a lot but I also still always have a lot to learn and talking with other knowledgeable people is the best way to expand that knowledge. The 2004 is a giant mixed bag of afterthoughts and last minute changes. In my opinion the worst year.
thanks so much "In the Shop" been dealing with a very small leak on the high oil side, been only getting 460 psi while cranking but all this info makes me feel like ill find the problem tomorrow... thanks so much for some of the best videos on youtube, you gained a new subscriber
Great video! Help save a ton of diagnoses headaches! My truck thanks you too...
Great to hear!
About to tear into my early 04 high pressure system soon. Great video
Thanks alot that help me out to understand more on my 06 E-350 no start I thank oil pressure related problems.
Thanks for watching! Hopefully this helps you find your issue.
Hay Nathan,
Thanks for a GREAT video, I think I have high pressure oil leak in my 2006 6.0. I'll be using your video for reference, again thanks as I know how much time it takes to create and edit these type of videos. Just subbed to your channel.
Thank you!!!
Good video. Right in the middle of this mess in my driveway.
Right on man I did just that and found out which ejector was thank you it's running like a champ now
Glad I could help!
Awesome job brother
You are a great tech. I have learned a lot from you
Thank you!
this is Will Witt i have done everything to this truck but still cant get it right . history truck ran great over 90,000 on rebuild bullet proof motor. broke a injector tip maybe water, sent it off to industrial injector they checked it out replaced nozzle they said it was fine. I had another injector where the spool was sticking so I on other side took it apart used 600 sandpaper and got it to move freely. I changed my oil added marvel oil . put it all back together and it started right up . went for a test drive seemed fine came home turned it off no start.
cooled off started right up. as soon as it heats up no start.. i have replaced everything all new ford tube and dummy plugs, new no leak cups nipples, got seals from industrial for injectors replaced them changed oil checked oil fill in filter when cracking. but oil pressure gauge shows oil then doesn't took off icp wire cen get it to start hpop pressure 2800 icp about 30 i'm at a total loss HELP.
Hi Will, these can be tricky sometimes. Have you tried doing the air test while the truck is hot?
@@InTheShop thanks for replying, I have done everything yes hot before I did cups and seals saw oil coming out under rail by injectors. My scan tool only showed one code low Icp, i put on a new ICP connector. took it all down to the HPOP and redid all seals and cleaned IPR even though it was cleaned tested to make sure it moved. I just don't get it. I completely rebuild this from scratch put 90,000.00 miles on it had that injector now just can't figure it out.
Fault tracing my '03 6.0 now. Air test tomorrow.
How did you make out?
Wonderful video, thanks so much! ❤
Awesome video and tips as well your theory .
Thankyou for taking time for making this tutorial . From oxnard California
Thanks Julio!
This is crazy! You've been out for a month and got 702 views. Why only 114 subs though?
Not sure why only 114 subs. Maybe because I only have a few videos at this point. Working on that now. I think the high view count is because its a popular subject to search for.
In The Shop I’m already up to 21 subs in a week, but I have about 60 view count on the big vids. I need to say like/subscribe more. You don’t pay for advertising?
Aggressive Design I link my CZcams channel on my facebook and instagram
I think this is the problem with my truck oil is leaking like a sive from the back of the motor when it's on the ground (level). I did an egr delete a few months back, and then I started having this problem out of the blue. I thought the oil was coming from the oil cooler but I think it's coming from the back right or left valve cover. I'm going to do this weekend and see what happens. Thanks again for this video. I'd rather take advice from a Yankee then some hellbelly who says he knows it all (you know who I'm talking about) lol
Hi Greg, it seems like you have an external oil leak not a high pressure oil leak. I just recently made a video about finding external oil leaks. I hope it helps.
Wow. Thank you very much for this video. I have a problem with my 2006 International Schoolbus with a VT365 Diesel Engine. It cranks when it is cold and it does not when it is warm. So these things you were showing are the things i am going to try first. I paid a workshop about 4000 Dollar and they did not find the issue. I just had to learn the hard way that sometimes it is better to do it by your own. But that would not be possible if you were not making those perfect videos. So thank you very much and i will keep you updatet if your video solved the problem!
Thanks Dennis! That Means a lot to me. Hopefully this helps you find out whats wrong. I'm looking forward to hearing what you found.
@@InTheShop Hi. So I tried to fix everything you mentioned in this video and the last thing I had to do was to change the oil pan (upper and lower) gasket because I think it is leaking. Then I have seen that one of the inboard main bearing cap bolts is just broken. So I have to change this. But also I found some crazy metal stuff in the oil pick up tube. I made some pictures and I would like to ask you if you have an idea what it could be. Could you check my pictures via what's app or however you we ant it. Would be really nice if you could help me. I am a little concerned now 🙄. Happy to hear from you.
Dennis
@@dennismike89 you can send them to my email address nathan@intheshopmedia.com
@@InTheShop ok. I sent you an email. Thanks !
Good content. Helped a lot to have the engine out of the truck where we could see
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you liked it.
Awesome man! I replaced my right 4 injectors and now I get a double start. Almost normal followed by the ferocious 6.0 start that comes after a repair. Happens cold start every time. I'm thinking injector o-ring or slight high pressure oil leak on the right bank. Thanks for the tips. I'm going back in tomorrow. Bubble test then this test. Kinda.. 03
You are a refreshing profesional very nice videos
Thank you William!
Great job on the shop i like the way you explained God Bless you
Very thorough just got a 2006 king ranch 35,000 miles and it has this issue lol might have more than the odometer says haha
Thank you!
Not uncommon to have issues at that mileage.
Excellent video
Hello, I have question , on how to energize the IPR using a scan tool, , thanks so much, hope to here back
awesome video ! very explicit and detailed,good job dude!
Thanks Antonino! I'm working hard to create good videos for all of you.
I have seen your entire video, I like the way you explained everything, I have a 6.0 with something similar, nothing more than the oil pressure needle definitely does not go up, do you think it could be the high pressure pump although I saw that you said it is It is rare that it gets damaged... the oil does reach the filter cup
What year is your truck?
@@InTheShop I'm sorry I hadn't answered, I hadn't seen that you answered, it's 2005
I was wondering if you knew anything about the stand pipe on the passenger side, is there a check valve in it,and whats it there for,,, iknow the oil comes up through it,does the check valve stop it from draining back into the oil pan,
There is a checkvalve. The valve keeps oil in the rails so you dont get extended cranks.
Have an 05 F350. When it's cold it starts but dies immediately when it warms up. Replaced ice and ipr, injectors too. Replaced dummy plugs and the tube. What's another common problem? Thanks for your time and the video.
Thanks bro for your help
Thanks was very helpful
Grate video. Am working in a 05 f-250 with a really long crank to start . Pressure tested the system at the ipr and found a injector leaking at the top o ring replaced it and retested again now it holds 120 psi for a good hour or so but still cranks for about twenty seconds before it builds icp pressure.Hpop? Ipr cleaned and reseal and dummy plugs and stands pipes replaced. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Car Doc have you put any miles on it since the repair? It can take a few hard runs to get the air pockets out of the high pressure oil rails. I usually like to do a highway run with a couple hard accelerations.
Hey thanks for the quick response. No I haven’t put any miles in it . I pulled the hpop cover off just to inspect the STC fitting in install the update it one . At this point am just debating in installing a new pump or not . I would hate to put it back together just to find out i have a weak pump i know it’s not really common in 05 and newer but can be still possible since I can find any leaks?
Make sure You have the write oil filter ,otherwise the check valve Will bleed the oil back to oil pan and causing a long start because it has to reefill the oil filter reservor. I know it happend to me.
Beautiful beautiful beautiful beautiful video, tank you so much very helpful thank you so much.
Thank you Joselos!
Thanks man simple and gets right into it
Thank you!
Thanks for your videos
Well, I already changed a new pump and injectors are re-invoiced and rails I also bought and the high-pressure tubes and it turns me on very well only that when it already grabs the temperature I turn it off and it doesn't turn on anymore I just noticed that when there the air pressure test only pulls me by an injector where the nipple enters you can be heard there
It’s possible one of the top injector o-rings where the nipple enters is bad. It’s also possible that the spool valve on the injector is worn causing this.
Always very informative Thanks bro!
Any time!
To clarify, if you do not energize the ipr while pressure testing, it would make it sound as if the high pressure system has a leak?
ChronCrew correct
Excellent explanation man thanks to you
Thank you!
Is there a diagnostic method to suspect the stc over the dummy plugs?
Patreon worthy content, will start looking at your other work.
Hey Ron, Usually you will hear the air coming from the back of the engine instead of under the valve cover area. If you do its time to pull the pump cover and inspect. Once the pump cover is off you can reinstall the IPR and retest the system. I started setting up my Patreon but never pursued it. Maybe now I will. Thank you!
About 3000 miles ago, I replaced the HPOP, and also, the dummy plugs and stand pipes, and oil rail nipples and seals, Now i have a crank no start, cold or hot, it did fire once to get it hot and i took it for a drive test only to have a no start when i got home, ran great on the road, i notice the low side seams to take a bit to build up but the oil gauge in the truck rises like it should, ok with all the history, thanks for reading, im not sure where i should start first, remembering back when i put the HPOP cover back on, im wondering if i may have pinched the seal on the tube from the HOPO to the ICP senor is there a way to air check that part ? thanks your the best
Hey bro great video. I have 05 and just had bunch of things go wrong at once, no chatter, no fuel pump noise, no base line oil pressure. So yah I'm going crazy lol.. can you help
Can you communicate with a scan tool?
@@InTheShop tomorrow morning a friend is coming by with snap on computer/ford diesel software,,, something like that. So I will keep you in the loop just in case I don't understand him. After watching you work I trust your opinion...
This was very helpful and clearly and fully explained - thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Hey I've got a 6.0 in that driver said motor just shut off while he was going down the road. I found that the oil filter cap backed off and my rights are the motor shut down when he lost base pressure. Now it won't start back up again. Ipr at 85 when cranking, icp has 0.18 key on and 0.3v cranking, icp reads 70 psi at best. His truck also takes over 30 seconds of straight cranking to build base pressure. Where would you go from here?
Awesome! Tons of useful info in this video. Thank you!
Awesome video
thank you brother good info
any way to test the hpop its self - pressurized the system and no leaks....... but only builds 263lbs of pressure
If you have no leaks, and you have good base oil pressure you likely have a bad pump. There is no real way to test it individually.
What year truck?the 2005+ have the cast iron pump that seldom fail.
Great video I have a question.
Or better yet I'll give you this scenario.
Driving down a freeway low fuel comes on . Go to the gas station put diesel in . Filled it out start up no problem driving down the road Approximately 4 miles and ban it just Shut off.
I've change the two filters check for water didn't find any. I put a brand new ficom. Fuel engine control module. Put in two new batteries .
Put some diesels start in the Carburetor and it started for a second . Someone said if I remove the ICP And cranked it over oil should shoot across the street. I did that and I have no oil coming out whatsoever. Like I said I was driving and a just shut off and he ideas thank you In advance
Does the oil pressure gauge on the dash come up when you are cranking it?
Did you figure it out? I just bought truck with a similar scenario. PO said after filling up and driving home it started running rough and eventually died. And had to tow the csr home.
It has the warm non start and once it cooled down then it would start and but it would still not have power to drive
I did the air test on my 2003 6.0 by using a IPR adapter only took the oil fill cap off then pressurized system with air for 10min I then used a stethoscope that's battery powered style its very sensitive for noise listening anyhow all air noise is coming from the middle of the plenum so its sounds like a smoking water pipe bong lol so no noise from the valve covers all is in middle top of engine my truck was running fine still no hard or no starts but I had a major oil leak that I thought was the ICP or IPR but all was dry it did look like it was leaking out near the driver side exhaust manifold in back corner as I seen bubbles that looked like were coming out where heads meet block anyways i had the 03 pump and oil cooler replaced a few years ago the oil pump was OEM Ford and oil cooler was aftermarket I was hoping after explaining all this you may have a thought to witch is likley my issue meaning if I hear this gurgle noise in middle is it most likely oil cooler I also should mention I have a bulletproof EGR cooler and part was also installed same time along with previous mentions and also bulllit proofs water pump was also done all by a ford mechanic who went into biz for himself after 25yrs working for Ford so I'm just not sure what's really the issue till I tear into engine but because my truck had no issue staring and running at all but leaking oil bigtime my IPR when I pulled screen is perfect and it works fine when 12 volt tested one last thing to mention is the oil filter housing when I pulled the cap off the oil is not holding and is empty so that and I don't see any milk mix in my coolant at all and I switched over to the red coolant million mile stuff after system was flushed out reverse style and block plugs pulled as well and my intuition is that's where this may have been cause as I did that not to long ago with use of the guys aftermarket adapter for back flushing oil cooler I think maybe I used to much air pressure and blew seals in oil cooler or just blew cooler itself possibly but no signs of mix of oil in coolant so I know that's alot of variable for possible causes just don't think oil pump is it I hope not at least and if its such a bad leak wonder why my engine runs fine and if its head gaskets would it bubble inside middle of upper intake Well I love your videos hope you can give me your two cents on my issue I have brotha thx
What I did was install the shop air tool into where the injector pressure regulator sits and cranked it to see how much oil was pumping out and it didn't seem too high of a flow any ideas need help been sitting in my driveway for about a month and I can't get it to start
Help!!! This my first diesel 2007 F350 6.0L 79,000mi
I get a message on instrument panel “low pressure oil. Oil gauge goes down only on idle. If I rev up engine and oil needle gauge goes to normal. Can you help me with steps to follow. Thanks so much. God bless.
Most common cause of this is the oil pressure sensor(switch). It is the single wire plug located between the oil filter housing and the turbo. When they fail they give this symptom.
Good morning, I like your videos. I have a question. If you can answer it. I would really appreciate it. I have a 6.0 engine. I do the pressure test and air comes out of the injector where the nipple enters. That's why when it heats up the engine and I want to turn it on, it no longer turns on.
Correct. It sounds like you have a bad o-ring at the top of the injector.
love ur videos, i do have a question, tech ron always had mentioned not to ever change the o rings on the oil rail? any reason i’m why?
Wonderful video. Thanks
Thank you!
I'm looking for a leak atm, I put air thru were the IPR connects and then I hear Air coming from both sides of the valve covers, I just replaced the passenger side dummy plugs and standpipes and air tested it again and there was no chance on airflow from what I could hear.
Thank you it helps a lot!!
Glad it helped!
What if the air sounds same from both valve covers and when I put 12 v to ipr nothing changes
I have an 05 6.0 and this past weekend, after driving my truck on the highway for about an hour, I stopped at a rest stop and turned the truck off. When I got ready to leave the truck would crank and crank but not start. I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it fired right up. I thought it might be the ficm, but what are the chances it could be this issue you just fixed? Thanks for any help.
BTW, great great video. Very informative
Doug
Definitely sounds like a high pressure oil system leak.
@@InTheShop should I follow the diagnostic procedure you laid out or just go into the valve cover and replace those tube o_rings?
It’s always a good idea to test it first so you don’t have to go in multiple times
Good video. I bought an air fitting that goes in place of the IPR. It works great. What year engine is that? The throttle body on the otherwise 04 up intake with the EBP on the thermostat is really throwing me off.
This was a late 2004 motor. They were a half breed and used the 2003-2004 style pump but used the 05+ style rails. They also had the 05+ style intake but had a throttle body. Funny part is the throttle body is blank and had no blade in it. They were a mess lol
So I have an 07, f350 123,000 miles. I had a reputable diesel mechanic check mine for a high pressure oil leak, after it sat, most of the time overnight or an extended period of time I would have a long crank before it would start, around 5 to 6 seconds, I do have a monitor so I can see the pressure eventually building to 500. He did find one dummy plug with a pinched o ring fixed that, the standpipes were updated ones, but after a couple weeks of checkn recheckn he could not find a leak anywhere that would be causing this issue, so I’m stumped as to what to look at next, any ideas?
What’s up brother, I bought a 2003 old government f350 6.0
The oil pressure gauge drops and the check gauge light comes on while idling. It had 130k miles.
You Mentioned a little ball that falls out of the pump? Could it be the oil pressure sensor?
It runs and starts great. I haven’t checked the pressure- it is my first rodeo!
I need some direction.
If I drive it like this can it damage the motor?
Thanks
Help!!!!
Hey John, the oil pressure sensors are also common and an easy/cheap thing to change to verify. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ball fell out of your pump though. You won’t cause any damage by driving it but if the ball fell out it is possible that it leaves you stranded. I would put a sensor in it and recheck. If it still happens pull the pump.
Thanks for responding.
You’re not going to believe it but I changed all of the aftermarket filters to Motor craft and it fixed the problem!!!
It still has the egr cooler- if I leave it in how can I keep the system clean?
I’m chasing a high pressure oil leak I’ve rebuilt from ground up 06 6.0. Can the plugs on the bottom leak. I’ve replaced the nipple cup orings and injector top seals also the icp sensor voltage on the money and the ipr moves with snap on scanner I’m stumped
looking at you putting air to the oil rail makes me wonder could one precharge the oil rail after some sort of service involving the emptying of that rail?
You absolutely can. Some people do. It certainly reduces the amount of cranking time before the rails are full of oil.
@@InTheShop And people say I'm dumb, look at that. PS Just found you and subscribed. Not only do you have great content concerning my truck, but your production work is great.
Thank you!
The video was very helpful thank you keep doing what you doing
Thank you!
Hallo. Im having problems with 2003 f250 6.0 2wd dying, then no start after 5 or 10 minutes. I removed standpipes and there both kind of bended. Could this be all my problem? Cuz truck was doing great before, only 145,890 miles
I prefer to remove the IPR and install the test fixture, remove oil fill plug and disconn C/C breather. Inject test air and monitor which side has the vapors/sound emitting.
Plastic washer better known as a "backup ring", often used with o-rings at higher pressures.
That’s a great way to test. I prefer to do it through the ICP sensor port because it also tests the function of the IPR simultaneously. Either way will get you where you need to be. Thank you for the comment!
Good video 👍
Glad you enjoyed
Exclent video
Thanks Dana!
Bud thanks for your time and doing this video. Today while hammering down on her getting on the interstate I thought I ran over a wet spot in the road but then noticed a fuel smell real bad. When I got home I noticed the Driver side was slick and under the truck from the drivers side motor bay to the frame rail where the fuel pump and filter is. Was wet but it was more oily. It’s a 05 6.0. Do you have a direction I should look. Thanks
Hey man, great video!! I'm helping my buddy fix his 2006 6.0 and we did the shop air test and found leaks on both sides. It has the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, we replaced all 8 of the oil rail cup o-rings, and all 8 injector o-rings (the ones that the nipple cups slide into). My question is, do these engines take oil/pressure to seal everything back up? Because we still have air leaking from under the oil rails but there's nothing else to replace that I know of. Thanks in advance my friend!!
I subscribed as well. Now I'm going to binge watch all your videos!!
Thank you! They don’t seal when dry. Put some oil in the rail through the ICP port and the plug where the ICP would be on the other rail and check again. If they are completely dry they can leak.
@@InTheShop Well, we put it back together yesterday and it fired up and ran great. It even started back up after we warmed it up. So I guess it does take a little oil to seal those up. Thanks for the reply my friend! I've owned an 04 since 2010 and I've never had a High Pressure Oil Leak believe it or not. I've put one HPOP on it but that's it.