Choosing Steel for Swords: Knife Maker's Friday Five #44
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Choosing the right steel for a sword is all about balancing strength, sharpness, edge-holding, flexibility and shock resistance. Blade smith Walter Sorrells discusses how to choose the right steel for your sword project -- whether it's European, Japanese, reproduction or practical.
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Walter thank you so much for the great videos, keep them coming!
Loved it! Thanks Walter!
Ok that was the best explanation of steel usage for swords I've seen. Thanks Walter. 👍🇺🇸👍
Walter I just sent you an email with a couple pictures of my knives. Keep it up your channel is what started me into knife making and doing CZcams knife reviews
Awesome video. Thanks for the sharing of knowledge.
Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas!
This is the best video on youtube, for real, the best, thank you so much, respect from Mexico!
That was bad ass video of you slicing that bamboo!
Super sharp!
Thanks, and Merry Christmas
I sent my pics of my tanto! Awesome video as always!
Recently got into your videos. Good info! thanks for sharing
So many steels...but you gave a great starting point. Thanks.
Thank you! Very helpful.
Thanks for your knowledge
Great info, thanks
awesome 👏👏👏
I love 80CRV2 and 5160 for large blades and swords and 52100 for medium size hard use fixed blades!!! Ballbearing steel, is my all time favorite!!!
Greek Veteran
Yep, 52100 is great, especially as you can get it for free!
@@MrZetor lol of course that's annother good reason of that steel being my favorite! It's everything about it, that makes me love it! Even the feel of the steel in your hands, after polishing the blade. The edge it takes feels crazy good too! the smoothness of it's cutting ability. That feel on the stones when you sharpen it too.. Damn it wants to get sharp, like no other steel does!!! For people that don''t like how D2 steel sharpens, then 52100 is the exact opposite, in any sinlge detail. I could speak more about it, but someone has to experience these values for himself, to be able to understand, how good that steel is!! At 60-62 hrc, no other steel can come close, to make me like it, as ballbearing steel does!!!
great video !
Thanks!
How about 9260? Haven’t heard about them much!!
Thank you
I will send an email once i finish hand sanding my friends knife. I managed to get a slight hammon on an 80crv2 blade but very feint, problably from the nickle content you mentioned and the clay I used wasn't the best.
Hail State!
Nice steel primer. Could you do a series on forging or stock removal of a W2 blade with hamon? I'd like to see your approach. Merry Christmas Walter!
Another that seems to be overlooked (maybe rightfully so) is 3V.
Very high toughness, good edge holding, and when I messed around with it @ 60hrc, it was solidly in the “semi stainless” category imo. Not saying it wouldn’t rust after a while (so will most stainless steels) but I couldn’t get it to take an etch at all with my acid bath.
It’s a pita to grind both before and especially after heat treating, is quite expensive, and the heat treat is more complicated than other simple steels (I’m sure there are countless recipes, some easier than others).
Wow, awesome
Love the turfgrass sweater. Are you a lawn enthusiast as well?
Holy Crap, Nice Hoodie!! Hail State!!!
Awesome
I would like to make a Norman style sword. I have had problems with O1 in the past with brittleness, but I may not have normalized it properly.
This was a great discussion
Thanks
Frank
O1 isn't the best for swords unless it's differentially heat treated or you stick some potatoes and carrots on the edges and go nut with the blow torch
@@Dylanschillin O1 can work but ends up pretty complicated from what I know. If you have the equipment or can getto rig it a bainite heattreatment should help. I've seen people manage it with hot oil baths vs full on molten salt.
So, where would 1085 fall in all this? Thanks so much for your educational videos, I really appreciate them.
Damn, that was a young Walter wielding that sword.
Hello Walter - I hope this doesn't seem like I am a pain in the ass... just trying to help. I think you got L6 in the higher carbon category. It is surely alloy steel compared to the 10xx series, but it has .7 or less carbon. Maybe you can take L6 off that group in the video? Not many will notice, so it may not matter. You are right re: 80CrV2 and toughness, according to tables in places such as Knife Engineering. Anyway, you know I support you and we are sort of acquainted. Best wishes. Thanks for the outstanding channel. I send people here often when they get serious about the knife disease.
Mr Sorrells sir differential hardening was not only in Japan but actually in South East Asian too but without clay
Hey there Walter I wanted to ask a question about tapering a long blade and what's the best way to do it. I've searched and searched and cannot find anything and wondered if you had any pointers?
"If you're trying carry home a bunch of 4X8 plywood from Home Depot that Ferrari's not going to be much good to you." Sure, i might not get a whole lot into the Ferrari, but what little i do ill get home really fast. : )
I’d also like to play around with AEB-L at around 58 hrc. I use it at 60 for all kinds of kitchen cutlery and based off the charts I’ve seen, it has great toughness for a stainless steel. I probably wouldn’t make a full sized katana at 61hrc but I think a 20”-24” blade would be completely doable.
The shock is likely still too much. And 58 is already pretty hard for alot of swords.
A few makers have done sharp stainless swords but usually requires specific alloy selection and really really complicated heat treatments. The one I know of that used to exist had a heat treatment done to like aero space style standards and has softer in the core then the rest of the blade.
Assuming there was no price restrictions and it was all available. What would be the ultimate metal to use for a katana? Also assuming working that metal wasn't an issue. Is there a ultimate metal?
walter
go watch the video Ilya made on the channel That works, because he talks about how similar western swords are to katanas in that they all usually have a hard steel edge and a softer mild steel/iron core and neither are really meant to be a spring
and there are many examples of western blades that have hamons, partly because bloomery steel is shallow hardening
I was thinking about that.
You mentioned needing to bend a japanese sword back if you bend it during use. Have you made a video detailing this process? I have one that took a bit of a bend after hard use. Would be great to right it.
Thank you for your generosity with your knowledge! Is there enough of a market for custom knives for a part time maker to be able to “self fund” their hobby? Thank you!!
Yes if done correctly
Walter, where do you get your 1080 steel from ?
what steel are you using for the closest to a traditional Japanese old style Katanas? Like 1080? or 1060? if you want a really good Hamon is there a lower steel in carbon that allows =for that??
Do you have any swords Katanas for sale ready to go? how do I see and look at them online ? Great chanell by the way!
Thanks
Which steel is best for Burmese DHA?
Is there particular type of clay that works best?
Have you ever worked with Hadfield steel? How would that be for a sword?
I have a question, 51 60 steel is good for making a katana and how does it deal with a hamon? Greetings
Walter Sorrells, you mentioned for medieval style swords that 80crv2 and 5160 to temper at 600 degrees Fahrenheit.. would 1075 steel be around the same temperature? 2 hours for 2 cycles?
He states 400F for 1050-1080 steel.
Will you be offering classes or apprenticeships?
Can you make a video on heat treating 1095?
As always very informative video. What would you say about T10 steel, for Japanese swords? Some would argue that it’s the closest steel to authentic katana, some would not. What is your opinion, and overall what you think about T10 steel.
Best regards,
Anri M.
P.S. how’s the tool box coming along? Have you finished it?
All the best my friend and happy birthday to J. 😉✌️
Merry Christmas and a happy new year 🎈
Tool steel is nothing like folded steel made from iron sand steel
T10 is a very durable steel for katana, more brittle but high edge retention. Great cutters.
How do you feel about T10, 1095 or Damascus for Katanas
T10 and 1095 are great for katana but harder to work with and heat treat.
If you. We’re buying a katana ?
What steel would you choose
Ps I subscribed
Where do I get steel that is this long? I have been searching for months and I can only find 12 inches to 23
What is T10 steel fall under?
1045, 1050, 1060 are all good steels for katana. 1045 and 1060 being real common for katana that can take a beating and keep on cutting.
I think you meant chromium concerning 80CrV2, right? :)
What do the numbers indicate
hi,I have catana sowrd 1045. what's your opinion about?
What brand did you get. As long as it's heat treated right, 1045 is a good steel for katana. It's more forgiving than the harder steels but at a loss of edge retention.
Awesome! you really got to visit the " Klingenmuseum Solingen " ! a while back a Smith from Switzerland told be, " there Where no Alloys " in ancient weapons. well……… How does it come, that the Dagger of " Tut anch amun " got 3% Nickel? How does it come that an Ulberht Sword was possible? ;)
I think he meant that there was no alloying on purpose (besides carbon of course). Some iron ore deposits had a wide range of other elements within them, therefore producing somthing you could call an alloy.
I heard that the smiths in Toledo producing rapiers used iron ore in composition akin to modern springsteel (in its composition, not its quality of course) but dont quote me pn that...
@@ArthurHerbst the Weapon forge of Salamanca, was foundet by bladesmithes of Solingen! ;) this Profession ment to travel around in acient times, when there were no wars nearby. ;)
These guys invented hardening some Steels WITH chickenshit. :D
I believe I read somewhere that King Tut’s dagger was made from meteoric iron which is naturally an alloy of iron and nickel
80crv2 should be close to perfect sword steel, heard is more shock resistant then 5160. Mabe even cpm 3v if cost doesn´t matter.
For me? It's Aermet 100 or Vascomax 300
Hi why not T10?
I'm guessign because it's harder to work with and heat treat. That being said it is a great steel for katana.
So is a36 a no go
Good lord ,just tell me , if you were in a zombie apocalypse, what’s the best steel
What titanium grades would be for knife making and sword making
Why would anyone use Ti in a sword or in any knife (except for seawater diving and/or climbing)?
For bolsters, go for Gr2 instead of Gr5. It is cheaper and much easier to work with.
None, titanium is horrible for blade making.
@@T-DsGaming I've heard its abrasion resistant so hard to work witb but wouldn't that mean it will hold an edge longer
I've seen man at arms make titanium swords and things thats why I'm curious
Go Dawgs,.....
Would titanium be better for a katana
Hard no, aside from being horrible to work with it doesn't get as hard as steel
No, it is not good at all for making blades.
All those people who watch this would you recommend a sword out of cold rolled steel
That just refers to a process in how the steel was shaped into the stock. And also no if the sword is shaped that way. If the steel was just cold rolled to stock shape then forged or made into sword shape via other methods then it should be fine. More details would be better.
Actually Chinese swords were edge tempered like Japanese swords
same with other parts of the world that only edge harden their blades, like south east Asian, India, and middle east, although the difference is that they don't clay harden it, which means their spines are entirely un heat treated, where as, the spine of Japanese blades are lightly heat treated
What really sucks is the fact that you americans have a naming system for steel that is totally different from the system used in germany.