Using my homemade fixture to sharpening end mill. That Index table/Dividing Head of mine I have made from drawings/planes from Engels Gerard. home.scarlet.be... Please visit his site.
Very nice, I don't know if anyone has mentioned but your wheel is rotating anti clockwise so you should feed from right to left, not left to right Feeding from left to right if you forget to lock the magnetic base the endmill can be sucked into the stone.. jamb and shatter the stone If feeding from right to left the endmill will be knocked away If anyone watching has a wheel turning clockwise then they should feed left to right
@@tompas11A3n52KkX ahh yes I see the clamps now :) , I've been watching quite a few vids on endmill sharpening to see different takes on angles and approach, I think yours was the third vid I watched and the other two used the Stevenson fixture on a magbase so magbase in my head
@@markhobster8113 It's ok. My fixture is a kind of replica of the Stevenson fixture that I made many years ago. I don't own a surface grinder so I use the old mill. Not the best but it works.
Thanks. Sorry but I have no drawings for the fixture. Only this pictures. ibb.co/8710xYr ibb.co/br7gZP3 ibb.co/MCs5Mc9 ibb.co/42Lvp5D ibb.co/1KyKGNp ibb.co/DMTm71D
Very informational video! I have found you can help aging magnetic tables by placing 1-2-3 blocks or similar material snugly along the sides of the work piece to spread out the magnetic forces and keep the work from moving on you. I am a new subscriber. I too have a channel where I make stationary steam engines and other fun stuff. Thank you- Fred
It seems dangerous that the bit is entering the grinder arc in the same direction as the oncoming grinder surface instead of against it. If it caught then it would be jerked underneath the wheel instead of being nudged out in the clear. As the item is grabbed further under the wheel the space is smaller and the grabbing action increases. This will escalate until it is ejected out the other side of the wheel. You might end up with something broken and a piece of it might rocket off to the right of the camera.
When I was taking my machining training on using a surface grinder, I was advised against grinding more than .0002" at a time. The setup had to be VERY RIGID, and the wheel dressed properly before doing any cutting.
Couple comments. You sharpened the end of the cutter yet you side milled your test pieces.. Nice that you have a horizontal mill. Or are you using a right angle attachment to hold your wheel?
I used the sharpened end of the end mill cutter as you can see in the video. This wonderful milling machine is an Aciera F3 and it can do both horizontal and vertical milling. Just remove the vertical head and you have a horizontal milling machine.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX I have to disagree. You did not make a plunge cut, which would have tested the sharpness of the cutting lips you sharpened. You touched down on the block, raised your table, then side milled. That tests the sharpness of the flute edges. When I have an endmill sharpened by a cutter grinding shop, they grind the flute edges if they are dull. Of course, this reduces the diameter of the mill, but is a necessary thing if you're going to side mill.
That`s an ER32 collet. what type of ER 32 collet is it .I have ER32 collets and there are different but I have one the can with a collet holder when I buy the mill and its the same as the one you have. I been trying to figger what type it is.
Great video. Nice to see you back making them. Look forward to the next one.
Thanks Dale and thanks for watching.
Very nice, I don't know if anyone has mentioned but your wheel is rotating anti clockwise so you should feed from right to left, not left to right
Feeding from left to right if you forget to lock the magnetic base the endmill can be sucked into the stone.. jamb and shatter the stone
If feeding from right to left the endmill will be knocked away
If anyone watching has a wheel turning clockwise then they should feed left to right
Thank you! Yes i know someone mentioned it in the comments. Oh and I'm not using a magnetic base, the fixture is clampted to the table.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX ahh yes I see the clamps now :) , I've been watching quite a few vids on endmill sharpening to see different takes on angles and approach, I think yours was the third vid I watched and the other two used the Stevenson fixture on a magbase so magbase in my head
@@markhobster8113 It's ok. My fixture is a kind of replica of the Stevenson fixture that I made many years ago. I don't own a surface grinder so I use the old mill. Not the best but it works.
Thank you for sharing, great idea
Thank you.
You are a very skilled machinist, love all your videos!
I am still learning I think. Thanks Randy, glad that you like my videos!
Great video where the drawings for fixture to sharpening end mill.thanks
Thanks. Sorry but I have no drawings for the fixture. Only this pictures.
ibb.co/8710xYr
ibb.co/br7gZP3
ibb.co/MCs5Mc9
ibb.co/42Lvp5D
ibb.co/1KyKGNp
ibb.co/DMTm71D
I love these videos. Awesome fixture too.
Glad that you like them, many thanks Indy.
Very informational video! I have found you can help aging magnetic tables by placing 1-2-3 blocks or similar material snugly along the sides of the work piece to spread out the magnetic forces and keep the work from moving on you. I am a new subscriber. I too have a channel where I make stationary steam engines and other fun stuff. Thank you- Fred
Thanks and also thanks for the advice about aging magnetic tables. I've checked your channel and decided to subscribe!
Отлично, только защищайте станок от образивной пыли.
Спасибо и да, подумаю о защите машинки от пыли.
Nice fixture, well done.
That fixture of mine has done a good job during the years. Thanks for watching.
Pretty smart way
Thank you!
Wow nice ..mai I please know whether the fixturrbase plate is tapered.or straight
Thanks. Clearance and relief angles are built into base.
I'm going to try this one.
Good luck to you.
Thanks a lot for this video,please tell me about grinding wheel density,what kind of grinding wheels is switchable for same job?
Thank you. I use a grinding wheel suitable for grinding HSS and the grit is 60.
It seems dangerous that the bit is entering the grinder arc in the same direction as the oncoming grinder surface instead of against it. If it caught then it would be jerked underneath the wheel instead of being nudged out in the clear. As the item is grabbed further under the wheel the space is smaller and the grabbing action increases. This will escalate until it is ejected out the other side of the wheel. You might end up with something broken and a piece of it might rocket off to the right of the camera.
Yes you are right there is a risk but as you can see, I grind very little off each time. Better to move against the grinding wheel rotation.
When I was taking my machining training on using a surface grinder, I was advised against grinding more than .0002" at a time. The setup had to be VERY RIGID, and the wheel dressed properly before doing any cutting.
Nice job..the endmill has about 3 degree face angle to the inside..are you tilting the vise?
I believe mine has that built into the fixture
That angle (in this case it's about two degrees) is built in the fixture that I made. Thanks for watching and comment.
Nice job
Thanks Pedro!
Did you get a 2 Degree angle toward the center of the end mill? If so was that built into the Fixture?
Yes I built that angle into the fixture.
Couple comments. You sharpened the end of the cutter yet you side milled your test pieces..
Nice that you have a horizontal mill. Or are you using a right angle attachment to hold your wheel?
I used the sharpened end of the end mill cutter as you can see in the video. This wonderful milling machine is an Aciera F3 and it can do both horizontal and vertical milling. Just remove the vertical head and you have a horizontal milling machine.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX I have to disagree. You did not make a plunge cut, which would have tested the sharpness of the cutting lips you sharpened. You touched down on the block, raised your table, then side milled. That tests the sharpness of the flute edges. When I have an endmill sharpened by a cutter grinding shop, they grind the flute edges if they are dull. Of course, this reduces the diameter of the mill, but is a necessary thing if you're going to side mill.
That`s an ER32 collet. what type of ER 32 collet is it .I have ER32 collets and there are different but I have one the can with a collet holder when I buy the mill and its the same as the one you have. I been trying to figger what type it is.
Hi Barry, have look at these:
home.kpn.nl/w_ermers/downloads/Collet_Identification.pdf
www.takayama-shoji.co.jp/rego/pdf/13_technical_information.pdf
А я правильно понял, что автор и фрезы точит и фрезерует на одном и том же фрезерном станке?
Да, это правильно.
Ohh these edges on the tool are not even i thought they would be and was like how can one leave it like that 🤣
You think so?
Спасибо за видео ,какой камень для заточки ставили ?
Спасибо, что посмотрели. зерно 60 для быстрой стали.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX спасибо
Make a video for 4 flute cutter
Nah the principle is the same only two more flutes to sharpen.
I know lot of people sharpening these tool with their hand on a grinder with in 2 min job is done. How much time this person only sharpening the tool
He is talking about precision grinding not making a toy
who's making a toy
As a professional cutter grinder, I’d be cautious to call this ‘precision’
Nah you must be kodding me.
What is cost of this machine
This fantastic machine is an Aciera F3 made 1959 in Switzerland. I bought it used many years ago, payed 22000SEK.
No coolant?
No bone dry.
I re
I really like your fixture very nice!
Thanks a lot.