Dear Stan I have used the Unitool, a dedicated tool grinder and the 5C collect end mill grinder. The Unitool is a good tool in that you can alter your angles to suit your work. The dedicated grinder has the same attributes but takes longer set up times and greater knowledge on the operators part. I have always had my best luck with the 5C grinding fixture because it was faster, easier, lighter, and more compact. I got most of my end mills from the junk and rescued them with either a quick sharpen or removing a 1/2" or more. I have had better luck reversing the grind sequence. Do the cutting edge 1st then the clearance 2nd and the gash 3rd and finally the corner mods last, ie 45*, corner rounding, or special steps. Great camera work when you can actually see the gap close between the wheel and the mill. Keep em comeing!
You make it look easy. I see what experience, practice, and confidence looks like. Your a good teacher Stan. I’m learning from your videos. Almost to the point in grinder assembly where I need a phase converter and wire it up. Yes Ill be going w American Rotary. I’ll be able to fix those cutters I dulled learning to operate the mill 😁. Parallels,angle blocks, on and on.
Thanks for the video. I have the same thing, but never used it so far because I didn't have the instruction sheet. So thanks for that too. I'm going to try it out soon.
We all complain about how Chinese equipment doesn’t always have good fit. But that’s true everywhere, as we can see here. I’ve got some very expensive equipment that I bought new, that I had to fit myself. This goes for currently made equipment, and that going back to the mid 20th century.
Would you prefer this way over a Deckel style tool + cutter grinder (like Robin's or Stefan's)? How about a universal t+c grinder like Steve Summer's? I know, I know, you have a good surface grinder; just wondering what you think is actually needed for versatility, size constraints, and time efficiency. I'd guess that the larger wheels for surface grinders are more expensive, but i'm not sure if they would give proportionally more use per dollar. (T+C wheels run way slower so they can be a less expensive construction?)
Climb feeding that cup wheel makes the hair on my neck bristle. I guess the tool angle helps, but still... Nice video, nice tool. Odd how it left the factory unable to hold a bushing!
:) nice video , but at the end while you take that test cut, I thought I could see that your milling machine is not adjusted right, there is no crosscut pattern :) , at least non that I could see . and as some guys already asked -- when do you open your regrind shop? :). id like to send you a few cutters for sharpening . thanks for sharing and all the best
approx. 30 min. ...my shop burden rate $60..00 per hr..= $30.00 ..!! . still would need to address the flutes..!!.think I'd just buy a new end mill ..!! ...but...tks. for the video ...
Stan - I realise this is a rather old video but also quite an interesting one. I have watched and rewatched your grinding videos numerous times. Great learning as my Ingar is a Spanish clone (none hydraulic) of yours. Anyway, did you ever do a Part #2 on the use of this tool? I was quite interested in the flute shapening process. Also would it be possible to get some rough dimensions of the tool? e.g. base plate sze, the approx box dimension of the central pivoting block, overall height? Down in NZ these things go beyond being rare to being down right mythical. But as a project for an interesting home build to exercise a range of skills and learning, now that would be very interesting and some rough size dimensions would be useful. Anyway, appreciate the practical videos you do showing those of us learning how to do things. Cheers - James.
Absolutely and saved a copy for my refernce along with a copy of the "sales" brochure that you had printed. The flute sharpening process looks to be very similar, even the same concept, to the instructions in my Deckel S0 clone. But seeing is always nice. :-) No dimension data in that Uni-Grind instruction sheet from my reading but a great overall assembly diagram along with the content of your video.
I hope you don't mind that I link Tony's video here. Here is Tony's video on the Uni-Grind. Since this tool seems to be so rare, I thought a link to Tony's video would be helpful. czcams.com/video/RU489FhW3Ig/video.html In case the link changes, the title: Uni-Grind 'n My End Mills Away
There's too much emphasis on grinding the end faces which are hardly if ever used in milling operations.......al of the work is done with the side flutes and mostly only the end 2 mm at most........I've ground the ends of end mills by hand on a bench grinder and if you can grind a drill you can grind an end mill even a 50mm diam shell end mill as you never cut with the end face only the sides.......been in the trade for the last 60 years so it comes easier when you have the skill..
Dear Stan I have used the Unitool, a dedicated tool grinder and the 5C collect end mill grinder. The Unitool is a good tool in that you can alter your angles to suit your work. The dedicated grinder has the same attributes but takes longer set up times and greater knowledge on the operators part. I have always had my best luck with the 5C grinding fixture because it was faster, easier, lighter, and more compact. I got most of my end mills from the junk and rescued them with either a quick sharpen or removing a 1/2" or more. I have had better luck reversing the grind sequence. Do the cutting edge 1st then the clearance 2nd and the gash 3rd and finally the corner mods last, ie 45*, corner rounding, or special steps. Great camera work when you can actually see the gap close between the wheel and the mill. Keep em comeing!
You make it look easy. I see what experience, practice, and confidence looks like. Your a good teacher Stan. I’m learning from your videos. Almost to the point in grinder assembly where I need a phase converter and wire it up. Yes Ill be going w American Rotary. I’ll be able to fix those cutters I dulled learning to operate the mill 😁. Parallels,angle blocks, on and on.
We always called the face clearance angles , primary and secondary. Nice video. Thanks.
LaVern
Thanks for the video. I have the same thing, but never used it so far because I didn't have the instruction sheet. So thanks for that too. I'm going to try it out soon.
Nice job. I have been looking for one for awhile also.
Nice work Stan, looks like a handy fixture to have. looking forward the flute grind.
ATB Robin
We all complain about how Chinese equipment doesn’t always have good fit. But that’s true everywhere, as we can see here. I’ve got some very expensive equipment that I bought new, that I had to fit myself. This goes for currently made equipment, and that going back to the mid 20th century.
Would be interesting to see how a commercial regrind operation works, with their machines. Great vid Stan. THX
Great video Stan. Thanks
Very interesting. Well done.
nice job Stan
You opening a regrind shop soon?
Would you prefer this way over a Deckel style tool + cutter grinder (like Robin's or Stefan's)? How about a universal t+c grinder like Steve Summer's?
I know, I know, you have a good surface grinder; just wondering what you think is actually needed for versatility, size constraints, and time efficiency.
I'd guess that the larger wheels for surface grinders are more expensive, but i'm not sure if they would give proportionally more use per dollar. (T+C wheels run way slower so they can be a less expensive construction?)
It add versatility to a surface grinder, just want to get the info out there so people know their options. I have a benchtop Denkel on the way too :)
You have to say the magical phrase from Mr. AvE to get your camera to focus on those close up shots.
Ha ha .. it never works for me, so i quit.
Climb feeding that cup wheel makes the hair on my neck bristle. I guess the tool angle helps, but still... Nice video, nice tool. Odd how it left the factory unable to hold a bushing!
Neat setup 👍🏻
Did you ever do part two,on grinding flutes?
Regards
Jim
P.S. I am a first time watcher
I lost a bunch of footage (dead battery) so as you can imagine, it's pretty frustrating, never did a re-shoot. BTW, welcome to the channel.
OH Man, Stan's in the shop masterbushing..... Sorry, the immature kid in me emerges at times.. ;-)
How do I respond to this? .. I got nothing ....
Ha, sorry buddy. Just finished the vid.. great tool to have around. I imagine a 2 fluter would be a cakewalk.
As long as it's in the privacy of your own home...
Great video Stan I do my own also, try the final grind at 2 degrees and see what you think, be interested what you think.
Regards Alan.
Snazzy - looks like a tool $$$ saver.
_Dan_
:) nice video , but at the end while you take that test cut, I thought I could see that your milling machine is not adjusted right,
there is no crosscut pattern :) , at least non that I could see .
and as some guys already asked -- when do you open your regrind shop? :). id like to send you a few cutters for sharpening .
thanks for sharing and all the best
approx. 30 min. ...my shop burden rate $60..00 per hr..= $30.00 ..!! . still would need to address the flutes..!!.think I'd just buy a new end mill ..!! ...but...tks. for the video ...
Stan - I realise this is a rather old video but also quite an interesting one. I have watched and rewatched your grinding videos numerous times. Great learning as my Ingar is a Spanish clone (none hydraulic) of yours. Anyway, did you ever do a Part #2 on the use of this tool? I was quite interested in the flute shapening process. Also would it be possible to get some rough dimensions of the tool? e.g. base plate sze, the approx box dimension of the central pivoting block, overall height? Down in NZ these things go beyond being rare to being down right mythical. But as a project for an interesting home build to exercise a range of skills and learning, now that would be very interesting and some rough size dimensions would be useful. Anyway, appreciate the practical videos you do showing those of us learning how to do things.
Cheers - James.
Did you check the link in the description?
Absolutely and saved a copy for my refernce along with a copy of the "sales" brochure that you had printed. The flute sharpening process looks to be very similar, even the same concept, to the instructions in my Deckel S0 clone. But seeing is always nice. :-)
No dimension data in that Uni-Grind instruction sheet from my reading but a great overall assembly diagram along with the content of your video.
in the UK a gash is a ladies bits
J mew Now that you mention it, same here too :)
keith must like you but we all do
Stan,
Are the CBN wheels only for HSS? Or will they do carbide also? I’m thinking that to grind carbide it would have to be diamond.
The CBN's are diamond, will do both HSS and carb.
Could I get the technical details of the attachment/Manual PDF format because the video is amazing!
Link to the scanned PDF in the description, enjoy!
@@ShadonHKW Thank you very much for your Grace.
How could I buy a new or a good used one. My shop is in Tennessee. Thanks
Not made any more, keep a search open on e-bay and hope for the best.
I hope you don't mind that I link Tony's video here.
Here is Tony's video on the Uni-Grind. Since this tool seems to be so rare, I thought a link to Tony's video would be helpful.
czcams.com/video/RU489FhW3Ig/video.html
In case the link changes, the title:
Uni-Grind 'n My End Mills Away
Boa noite ,como faz para dressar o rebolo.
But, but, can it do knives for the wife and drill bits? :-)
There's too much emphasis on grinding the end faces which are hardly if ever used in milling operations.......al of the work is done with the side flutes and mostly only the end 2 mm at most........I've ground the ends of end mills by hand on a bench grinder and if you can grind a drill you can grind an end mill even a 50mm diam shell end mill as you never cut with the end face only the sides.......been in the trade for the last 60 years so it comes easier when you have the skill..
How are you, brother?...
Do you have an email?...