End Mill Sharpening Guide : Universal Tool & Cutter Grinder AKA D Bit Grinder
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2020
- Complete guide to sharpening end mills on the D-bit grinder. Covers sharpening the end cutting edges and the flutes using the flute grinding attachment that the D-bit grinder usually comes with. These grinders are clones of the original Deckel grinder and are sold around the world with different model numbers such as PP-U3, TM-U3, U2, U3 etc.
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10:20 Off topic but I love nature. Man is intently demonstrating knowledge. Man's dog barks; alerting the pack to a potential threat. Man stops demonstration, evaluates the threat, determines risk low, and continues demonstration. All this in less than a second. Beautiful.
Wonderful attention to detail making a potentially complex process simple to understand - thank you
I usually do this by hand with limited results. This was a good tutorial.
Excellent details! Just got a D-bit and I will be using your vids to learn. Thank you!
That spacer trick is terrific.
Thank you for the superb video, I learnt everything from you, and it took me 7 months to pick the courage to start since all those angles were too much for me. You have cleared the fog .
Excellent video thanks for taking the time to film everything so clearly.
Thank you for everything here, the fixed focus in particular.
Thanks for the video, going to have to add one of these grinders to my wish list
Hey dear.Three years now.I hope you are doing very well.Best video of this sort.Thank you.
Excellent video.Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the video. I have just purchased my grinder and sharpened a few lathe tools. Drill bits and milling cutters are next. On the Quorn T&C grinder, the rails are protected from grit with felt washers held under screwed down metal cups. I might look at that mod for my machine.
Thank you. This was a very understandable video. Lincoln, NE, USA
Very good video! Thanks for putting in the effort. Great presentation, video quality and lighting. Mounted a diamond wheel to grandpas old bench grinder a couple of weeks ago . Will need to build something so I can grind endmill in different angles. Very good with videos like this when one can see how a real tool grinder works and also learn some about grinding. Subscribed and looking forward to follow your chanel. I am fully confident that your chanel will start to grow rapidly pretty soon. 🙂
Awesome, thank you!
Don’t use a bench grinder to grind endmill. There is far too much vibration, and the bearings aren’t designed for that.
I've always wanted to see a universal cutter/grinder in operation. Interesting. I use a Darex which has a air bearing spindle for sharpening the flutes. Both machines pretty much do the same thing.
Brilliant! Thank you!
Спасибо, полезное видео
Hello PDU.
Having just purchased the same unit your video is timely.
A few points I have found.
Regards the flute grinding attachment.
The clamp coller has a counterbored hole that matches up with a taped hole in the head.
With the, I think M5 x 15mm cap head, in the coller can be nipped for 5c removal or installation.
Useful for positioning as well.
I like that you use the inner part of the wheel with the tool positioned so the grinding is into the edge.
Much better for grinding carbide as well.
Good explanation, concise with useful information.
Initially I thought the supplied instruction book was reasonable, it is not!!
Thank you.
Thanks.
Superb demonstration. I've seen similar demo's, but I don't speak Chinese. The release screws and adjusting pins allowing 90+ and 0- settings are critical bits of info I have not seen anywhere else. Good on ya.
Thanks!
Just revisited this site again after about six months and I've used a number of 4 flute brazed carbide milling cutters that have straight flutes.....the carbide tips were brazed on with the tip square to the axis not slanted............that is without a helix angle and I can state they are extremely easy to sharpen not having the helix to contend with......all you need is to slide the cutter along a pin and Bob's you uncle, no twisting and sliding needed.
At the same time I've used the cutters with a 3mm depth of cut as the mill is a small bench top mode so most of the wear occurs on the end 3mm of the cutter which makes sharpening very easy..
I've been looking for a video like this for a long time. Clear instructions. Well done.
Nice tool. It's multifunction
To operate this machine requires a lot of tricky skills.
Just rewatching some of your videos, thanks for taking the time to make them.
I have the same grinder, there are instructions to line up the “white dot” which seems to be taken from the deckel manual but it is non existent on my machine (this apparently allows alignment of the tooth face using the little attachment arm). Do you have any thoughts about this?
On a completely different tangent do you also post motorcycle videos? Your voice is similar to that on another channel
Thanks for the demonstration on sharping endmills, found it to be very useful. Just an idea, have you thought of using a thin grinding blade to cut the reliefs on the endmills, may find this to be more precise then free handing it.
I have another tool cutter grinder which I planning to add a grinding disc to and do just that
Very nice and thanks for the demonstration.
When sharpening the end bits, why is the D bit grinder's tool holder rocked to present the tool's cutting bit to the grinding wheel?
Would it also work if the user found a suitable setting for the knob that controls the rocking and left that setting alone. Then, move the shaft axially to present the tools cutting bits to the grinding wheel?
Perhaps there's not enough adjustment travel in that knob at the end of the shaft to allow enough clearance to index the tool?
Excellent vid!
I have a question: Aren't diamond wheels only for carbide tools? I managed to load up a diamond wheel on steel and have been trying to abrade the steel off the wheel with marginal luck.
Perhaps in addition to seals you need to hook up compressed air to have positive pressure in the bore to keep grit out.
Nice, Now I would like someone to make a similar video on the Toolmaster Universal Tool and Cutter Grinder....I picked up a second hand one cheap but have no idea how to use all its features yet.
Having all of the attachments is the bigger issue. Pickup yourself a coppy of Covels book.
"operator's instruction manual: A handbook on universal cutter and tool grinding by Covel"
Universal tool cutter grinders are sweet machines. the lack of easy surface grinding is a pain for a small shop. but with good ways, a good indicator and allot of patcience, you can indicate the head in straught enough to do decent surface geinder work. My grinder is far too worm for this. but works well as a cutter grinder. its a '70's? Saacke
Very impressive!! Did you make the custom cutter for sharpening the sides of the flutes or was that item purchased somewhere? I don't think that is standard equipment when one buys a D-Bit grinder is it? Thanks for the lesson!
Thanks PDU - that was excellent. I have searched far and wide and not seen anyone else demoing the helix/spiral grinding on one of these tools. Very helpful stuff! My D bit grinder is paid for and due any day now. PS: How much life do you think you get out of one diamond cup wheel? I'm using endmills in the range 6-20mm usually and usually 4 flute. Thanks, Craig
Thanks. It took a quite a bit of fiddling to figure it out but it works and lets me sharpen my end mills. I have a whole box dull end mills :). If I ever find a better tool & cutter grinder with an air spindle for a reasonable price I will definitely buy one as and upgrade. That diamond wheel is the same one that came with the grinder and it's still excellent. I have sharpened about 15 end mills on it and about 30 drill bits. The biggest problem is the inner edge wear when sharpening end mills. As it wears and gets rounder you need to move the cutter towards you more to sharpen the whole edge a good relief between the cutting edges is important.
@@ProjectsDownUnder that's great. Thanks for the info. Air spindle would be nice! Perhaps you can do a mod?
I've heard they are incredibly robust, 100's of end mills. Mine is almost a year old and unscathed.
@@gordonjones1516 thanks Gordon. Good info.
In shop with doc describes his home made air bearing. czcams.com/play/PLp95TDxCzDrUuniYh1oQgkzARzlEhp4LY.html
After watching this video about your D-Bit Grinder.
I understand Why I have Never used my Grinder as yet ??
Having time available to Sharpen Drill Bits can be difficult enough.
Finding time to Sharpen End Mills 🤔😕
My thoughts are 🤔
Sell my D-bit Grinder, and let someone else Sharpen my End Mills.
Would you be interested ?
I usually find, I put my blunt HSS End Mills in a box waiting to have time to Sharpen them, while old Carbide End Mills and Drills go into a Recycling box.
Good information, and thanks for reminding of Why I need to sell my Grinder 😁
Peter 👍
It's definitely time consuming. I also put all my blunt end mills and drill bits in a box for a day I can spend just on sharpening as it is a bit fiddly.
Also - I wonder if there's any benefit to me washing the oil out of the large plain bearing on the indexing head (the place you said the grit gets in), and using some kind of spray silicone or teflon or graphite lube - something that doesn't attract and stick to grinding dust?
I haven't tried putting anything besides way oil but a dry graphite type lube may be an option. I have since added O ring seals which has stopped the problem but it has definitely increased drag. Not enough to cause problems but not as nice as it was without them. Let me know if you find a better solution.
@@ProjectsDownUnder thanks, will do.
Im a bit confused. In the video you made about sharpening drill bits, you put the flat end of a round bar square to the face of the grinder. In doing so, the scale on the very bottom (you set to 12 degrees in this video) was past zero. Would you not want that same past-zero reference when setting the 12 degrees here? Also, is the cutter supposed to be perfect 90 degrees the the grinding face for the blade, and then set 5 degrees off for the relief? Am I understanding that part?
You say to put a relief between all of the cutting edges, just curious why its necessary, is it a limitation of the D bit grinder? And do you know how the professionals would be able to achieve it?
What Grit diamond wheel are you using?
At time 8:30 in your video there is a hole underneath your Endmill that whole is for a pin with an arm on it to line your end mill 90° you’re missing the pin
Summary:
Sharpening the EM end:
teeth are concave towards the center by 1 or 2 degrees, so don't go 90 deg to the disk, but say 91.
Primary angle is 5 degrees
Secondary relief angle is 12 degrees.
Sharpening the flutes:
the angle is set slightly above 0, so EM only touches side of the wheel.
relief angle is 5 deg for 20mm or more, for 6mm EM relief angle is 15 degrees - note there can be more then one relief and primary edge sharpening was not shown?
Hello, professional tool grinder here. I appreciate your video and what you have done. In case you were curious in a professional setting we would use different angles than what you have outlined. For example, on the end of the tool the primary facet relief would be slightly higher at 7 to 9 and the secondary would be better suited at 15 to 17degrees. Your concave angle is appropriate at 1 to 2 degrees however in the industry we refer to this as a dish angle.
On the diameter of the tool if doing one relief I would stay around 12 to 14 if you are able to make two reliefs than a primary of 9 to 11degrees with a secondary angle of 18 to 20 would likely be ideal.
Good luck and grind on.
I'm currently building a Deckel look alike, but to a slightly different design and the aspect of the sliding spindle for the helix grinding getting grit in is a problem that can only be cured with an air bearing or with some air at the front and back to blow the dust out before it gets in.......something like 2 hollow collars attached to the front and back of the work head face that the spindle slides in......this will achieve the same pressurisation effect as the air bearing, but not for the friction free sliding part, but mainly to keep the dust out especially fine carbide dust......perhaps the sliding spindle could be modified to make it an air bearing?
It's a good idea but a lot of work. I would prefer to find an tool and cutter grinder with an air spindle bearing already.
@@ProjectsDownUnder Well, best of luck looking.....I have an idea on paper using some linear bearings instead of an air bearing so I might pursue that one when the grinder per se I'm building is finished.
The Cuttermaster T&C grinder I have has an air bearing and a takes 5C collets too......it works on as little as 30 PSI air pressure.
It's quite possible to re-engineer a plain bearing to give it an air bearing function........that end mill grinding attachment is an add on for most if not all D bit grinders but quite costly.
Edit.......just did a test for a pseudo air bearing for end mill grinding.
I have an ER32 collet chuck with a 16mm X 150 long plain shank..........the plain shank will slide axially in a 16mm linear bearing bush and it will also rotate quite freely too........a seal on each end will keep the grit out but I'm going to experiment with an air connection to the middle to blow any dust out.
I'll make an end mill holder to mount in the D bit grinder and use 2 linear bearings inside it for the 16mm shank instead of a plain bore.
The ER32 chuck will take all cutters both Imperial and Metric and anything else from 2mm to 20mm.......that will make 4 facet drill grinding a possibility.
Do you have a video on how to dress the diamond wheel that these machines come with? Mine has quite a bit of runout on the face and I don't know how to true it up.
Unfortunately I do not. Dressing the diamond wheel is a bit tricky and I have avoided doing it.
@@ProjectsDownUnder Last night I used your technique to sharpen a really beat up carbide end mill. The results were outstanding! The only thing I did different when sharpening the face was I rotated to 85° so that I could see what I was doing and it also gave me excellent results. I used Stefan Gotteswinter technique as well which is where I got the info on how to do the face at 85°. Even though the end mill had some huge chips on the side it cut as if they weren’t there. Thank you!!
Why are you using a diamond wheel on HSS
It does appear to be a diamond bond. Agreed
it seems buying new one is cheaper but reusing it is fine thought I work in the compony that we use only carbide when i tried to sharp one Forman asked me how long would it take i said 1/2 hour he then immediately said forget it!!!!!😢
HI do you sell an 1-11/16 X 1/2 SHANK or 3/4 SHANK. Or ware can i purchase that size
Español latino
Can you tell me the power of your grinder? Thank you.I´ll check against mine.Great video anyway.
I think its 370w
@@ProjectsDownUnder Thank you for your reply.Do you have a three face power supply (trifasic) at home?,or you use a regular monofasic power supply.I own a GH 20T grinder trifasic 370 W but I run it from my 240 V monofasic power supply.I just wonder if you are using a converter to trifasic,like I do.I do certainly appreciate your kindness.Thank you.
The grinder is single phase phase but my mill and lathe is 3 phase and I use a 3 phase converter for that. No 3 phase where I live.
@@ProjectsDownUnder Again I thank you for your kindness.I appreciate some help regarding my final operation of my GH20T grinder.Even when I can use my grinder when it is concted to my 240 V triphasic outlet of my Optidrive converter I don´t get the full 370 W of power since I need to bring the 240 triphasic power to the 400V triphasic nedeed by the grinder and that can b edone with a triphasic transformer from 240V to the 400V as far as I can judge .Here is where I need some help to get this transformer.Your patience is certainly appreciated.
I don't know where to get a transformer but if you want full power then try looking for a 3 phase generator. That should give you full power.
I can tell by the sound that mill is destroyed. You reduced the tool lifespan somewhere low to 20%. You really need a ultra fine diamond zirconia grinder cup and grind 0.001 mm increments. That sound is nothing but high vibrations between the carbide and grinding stone where the stone shattered and then being fed whit very rough sharp shapes being fed to take way to much material which is beyond the stones hardnes and these are high impacts that simply shatter the crystaline structure of the carbide and also creates many nanometric cracks in the carbides structure. Also before you grind your carbides you must dress yor grinding cup. I also advise getting some liquid nitrogen barrel and cool the mills after grinding them it will simply make them last 10 times longer. It will be like you just bought a high quality new mill each time.
Thanks for the useful info. The cutter in this video was HSS
Sharpening the outer edges instead of the inner edges of the flutes reduces the diameter of the milling cutter, right? Or is this just a limitation of the setup?
Yes it does reduce the diameter.
If you sharpen the inside instead of the outer edge, that should help retain the diameter of the bit, as well as ensuring that there will be a shard breaker at the outer edge of the front cutting faces. Or am I missing something?
@@wovenscrolls I have a CUTTERMQASTER T&C grinder.....what you are suggesting is a very difficult operation especially for a D bit grinder.
@@gangleweed Fair point. I'm just lucky enough to have the specialized machine made specifically for sharpening the flutes properly. Horridly expensive and I had to have the machine imported (very much a rare machine here in South Africa if it is even available)
@@wovenscrolls Lucky you....China has been our friend in OZ for lots of goodies despite the political wrangles etc.
I bought the swing and tilt mechanism on EBAY that is a major part of the D bit grinder as I'm building one.....3/4 finished now.
Traducir al español
I think ill just buy a new end mill
It’s hard to tell from the video, but are any of those plunging mill bits? Because if they are, then grinding a split in the middle prevents that function from being used again.
I’ve seen that some machines have the switch with two positions after the on/off position, as yours does. Is 1 and 2 different speeds? And how do you manage without the locks on the shaft?
I don't think they were. It's hard to sharpen to the center perfectly with this grinder so a small split is necessary.
The second position turns on the light. A second speed would have been nicer :).
I want to go your country
Good work! In case you are wondering how to dress your diamond wheels: czcams.com/video/gpbMn94vtrk/video.html Cheers Cliff
Poor lighting.
That just shows me that for an ungodly cost, you have to guess a lot. Not for me. This grinder needs more work.
Puno pričaš a malo radiš i jako malo pokazuješ
Useless and crazy costly device. Just after one use carbide dust makes it sloppy.
Super bro
#luckytoolroomskills